Google   Web 4x4rum.co.uk
 

NISSAN - Message Board

View these NISSAN FAQs as a list of subjects
 
click here to start a new thread in the NISSAN forum
 
Total Number of Posts : 792
Subject : Nissan Terrano 3 litre
I have a 04 Nissan Terrano 3L manual, Turbo diesel. When in normal
drive the vehicle runs well. When I put it into 4WD high and worse
still into 4WD low the vehicle has a very heavy drag on the steering.
It seems to be fighting against the steering when I try to turn the
wheel and there is a nasty "clunk" which shakes the whole back axle.
I have checked the oil and have put in the correct limited slip-diff
oil but it is no better. When I drained the diff.oil I took the cover
off the diff. and there was no sign of any damage inside. The only
other thing I can say there are 245x17 tyres all round instead of the
normal 235 tyres. But surely this wouldn`t make a difference as they
are all the same size. Any ideas please?

Ralph
Wrexham, N. Wales, UK - Thu 09th October 2014 03:07pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Nissan Terrano 3 litre
    You have "selectable 4WD".
    This means that when you select 4wd
    the entire drive line both front and back is sent the same amount of
    power from the transfer case. Any attempt to turn the front wheels
    means one front wheel is going to have to try to cover more ground
    (the "outside of the curve" wheel, and the inner wheel will cover less
    ground (fewer rotations). The drive coming to the front wheels from
    the transfer case will not change. Somehow the front diff has to
    cope.
    This "coping" is the drag you feel.
    If you also have a
    limited slip diff in the front axle,(not very common because the
    "fight" is even worse, and something only hardcore 4WD enthusiasts
    welcome) it will fight this "slip' between the two front wheels. (it
    will try to "not slip") Depending on how "tight" the LSD action has
    been set up, this can and will give you bangs and shudders.
    If
    you have a LSD rear axle diff as well, those wheels will be doing the
    same battle at the other end of the vehicle. As one wheel grips best,
    the LSD transfers some of the drive force to the other "slipping"
    wheel bang grip, slip,bang grip slip, bang..
    Now if you are on a
    slippery surface, say mud, wet grass or clay, sand or gravel, the
    drive line can cope as all wheels can slip. However, on tarmac,
    concrete, hard packed surfaces etc the drive line "winds up" as the
    wheels cannot slip...until the pressure overcomes the wheel grip on a
    loose stone or slippery bit (or a very expensive bit of metal goes
    "bang".
    Since all your tyres are the same size it is only the
    operating conditions that you are subjecting the vehicle to that are
    causing what you perceive as a problem.
    The resistance to changing
    direction even in a normal "open" diff is perfectly normal as the back
    wheels are still trying to push the vehicle in the easiest direction
    i.e. straight ahead.

    I hope this helps.
    For more
    detailed explanations and diagrams do a google search or refer to your
    local library for a book on 4WD operation.

    Be very pleased
    you can select 4WD, rather than having an all wheel drive. BMW front
    diffs can explode in very little pieces just from being put on rollers
    in brake tests for the MOT, or ion street driving "yumping" with the
    front end coming off the ground and losing traction. In NZ, that is
    $8000..about 3500 pounds before labour....

    John
    NZ - Sat 11th October 2014 05:24am (GMT)

 
Subject : ecu reader
hi I have a Terrano 1999 2.4i with the KA24E engine
Is there a
socket to plug a code reader into, where abouts is the ecu and socket
and has anyone used a code reader to diagnose faults, and if so which
one was it.
Thanks

Tim
- UK - Sun 05th October 2014 10:07pm (GMT)
  • Subject : ecu reader
    Google is your friend. Google "port location 1999 nissan
    terrano"

    get
    results

    https://www.google.co.nz/search?q=1999+terrano+OBD+sc
    an+port+location&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official
    &client=firefox-beta&channel=sb&gfe_rd=cr&ei=8vc0VJakC8yN8Qekq4GwBQ r>
    https://www.google.co.nz/search?q=1999+terrano+OBD+scan+port+lo
    cation&client=firefox-beta&hs=7F9&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&chann
    el=sb&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=8vc0VJ-NJtf58AWWsICYDA&ved=0C
    EcQsAQ&biw=1024&bih=658&dpr=1.25


    http://www.rac.co.uk/fo
    rum/showthread.php?5576-Nissan-Terrano-II-ECU-errors

    http://c
    odes.rennacs.com/Petrol-Engine/Japanese-Korean/Nissan-Engines.php



    Have at it.

    John
    NZ - Wed 08th October 2014 09:47am (GMT)

 
Subject : 4wd warning light
hello, hoping somebody can help please. recently the orange 4wd
warning light has been coming on on my dashboard.it randomly switches
the light on when im driving. the revs also increase, i had a friend
test it and it isn't actually in full 4wd ,took it for a test on a
local paddock in both 2 and 4wd and it definitely isn't in 4wd when
the light is on ,hence why I think it is just a warning light.if I
turn off the ignition (99% of the time) the light turns off the revs
drop and its fine ...until next time (which is often) .so does anybody
have any clue what this is. we have removed the switch to see if it
was that, not that and have reconnected it. could it just need more
fluid, or a transmission service maybe? or something else. any help
much appreciated. the make and model is petrol 1997 terrano regulus
auto. im thinking big $$$$$ its scaring me. thank you

vicki prince
lower hutt, new zealnd - Fri 03rd October 2014 05:52am (GMT)
  • Subject : 4wd warning light
    Have you recently bought and fitted new tyres to the vehicle, either
    both front or both back? If so and the vehicle does have ABS, then the
    warning may be for a mis-match in the rolling circumference of the
    tyres causing a warning that if 4wd is engaged the mismatch could
    cause "wind-up" in the driveline as one set of wheels would turn
    faster than the other, even in a straight line. If the vehicle does
    have ABS.
    Otherwise I suggest taking the vehicle to a technician
    with a scan machine and interrogating the computer for the fault codes
    that will be in there, before you start throwing parts and service at
    it....

    John
    NZ - Sat 04th October 2014 06:21am (GMT)

    • Subject : 4wd warning light
      an update on this incase anybody else has the same issue, went on
      computer for a test and it was the throttle position sensor.didnt need
      replacing ,just cleaning and had loose intake hose tightened.so
      relieved ,I was thinking this was going to be expensive, $150 and good
      as new incuding the best car groom ever ,thanks to an honest mechanic
      who could have "found" or charged me for more.

      vicki prince
      lower hutt, new zealand, nz - Tue 14th October 2014 04:54am (GMT)

 
Subject : blinking red light and beeping on center armrest console
My daughters 1994 Pathfinder has a red light blinking in the center
armrest console and a beeping noise. I need help clearing it and what
is causing it.

Dave Lawson
Blytheville, Arkansas, USA - Wed 20th August 2014 12:25am (GMT)
 
Subject : Rear Axle
re previous message, I would like to know if a rear axle from an early
terrano will fit a terrano 11 2003 with rear differential removal. if
not does anyone know the difference

mr b grimes
Widnes, Cheshire, UK - Sat 02nd August 2014 02:34pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Rear Axle
    Are you asking if the complete rear axle (wheel to wheel) from an
    early Terrano (which one, the Spanish built or the Japanese) will fit
    a late model Terrano (which one, Spanish or Japanese?
    Or are you
    asking if the axle (the steel shaft going from the differential to the
    hub) will fit (Spanish or Japanese made) etc etc???

    John
    NZ - Thu 07th August 2014 06:15am (GMT)

    • Subject : Rear Axle
      Both Japanese, and have found out since that the axle fits, the only
      difference is the gearing. Thanks anyway

      Barry Grimes
      Widnes, Cheshire, UK - Thu 07th August 2014 05:23pm (GMT)

      • Subject : Rear Axle
        HI Barry,
        I have just bought a Terrano II and live in
        Runcorn.
        Could you contact me please on

        marnione176@hotmail.co.uk
        Hopefully use your
        knowledge
        Thanks Paul Mahon

        Paul Mahon
        runcorn , Cheshire, UK - Mon 29th September 2014 07:36am (GMT)

 
Subject : rear axle
does a early terrano rear axle with rear differential removal, fit the
terrano 11. does anyone know please

mr b grimes
widnes, cheshire, UK - Sat 02nd August 2014 02:27pm (GMT)
 
Subject : breaking
Hi Iam Currently Breaking mistral and terrano 1996 to 1999 2.7td and
2.7tdi so if you need parts reply can post most parts s

robert lane
Gloucester, gloucewstershire, UK - Sat 02nd August 2014 11:59am (GMT)
  • Subject : breaking

    Dear Hellen,

    Please give me a quotation for the LCL
    spare parts mentioned below:

    BF Number: CV43985
    Make:
    NISSAN MISTRAL
    I need replacement parts for Nissan Mistral Model:
    TD27B. Following are the parts I need.
    FRONT BUMPER AMBER
    INDICATOR LIGHTS (Both passenger and driver side) + Fender
    Mirror

    please give me a quote including shipping cost

    VICTOR LIKANDO MWAZI
    Lusaka, Lusaka, Zambia - Sun 17th August 2014 05:16pm (GMT)

 
Subject : nissan Terrano 2.7 litre R20 diesel 1997
Have air in fuel line and Nissan mechanics cannot find out why. Does
anyone know?

dawn
coomera, qld., australia - Thu 31st July 2014 07:00am (GMT)
  • Subject : nissan Terrano 2.7 litre R20 diesel 1997
    Did the air leak start after you had the vehicle serviced, i.e. say
    after you had the fuel filter changed? If not, then you will have to
    start looking for the air leak in the fuel system anywhere in the line
    from the tank (including the pickup tube inside the tank..does the air
    leak happen more often at low tank levels???) all the way to the first
    pump (the lift pump) since after the first pump the fuel will be under
    pressure.
    Top suspect and easiest fix would be a leaking seal on
    the fuel filter. (also check the filter housing that the filter screws
    into for cracking)second would be a pinhole in a steel line caused by
    rubbing/flexing of the line against some part of the body, third a
    crack in the pickup line inside the tank...

    John
    NZ - Sat 02nd August 2014 06:57am (GMT)

 
Subject : Terrano rear axle noise
I have a Nissan Terrano 11 se W reg 2000
s/wb 2.7 My rear axle is
rumbling as I drive if I Depress the clutch The noise goes away have
you any ideas to rectify please thank you

edward
Wrexham, Flintshire, UK - Fri 25th July 2014 12:28pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Terrano rear axle noise
    Drain your rear axle. Examine the colour and contents of the gear oil
    that comes out. If it sparkles with metallic particles the
    differential will need an overhaul..new bearings etc.
    If you
    entrust this inspection to a professional, get them to quote re an
    overhaul versus the complete replacement "bolt in" of a good
    second-hand axle, "wheel to wheel".
    You could do the research
    yourself at the local wreckers to give an indication as to the normal
    price of the second hand unit before fitting costs are factored in.
    Some wreckers will also give a warranty..say three months..if problems
    develop they will get another unit to repalce the faulty one. It's not
    rocket science..you and a friend could do this yourselves with a few
    tools and some planning.

    This may also give you the
    opportunity to put in a limited slip diff (if you don't already have
    one).

    Also it allows you to have a good look at the radius
    arm bushings..they may as well be replaced at the same time. Refer to
    "Nissan death wobble" in Pathfinders in the US. You have the same
    suspension...)

    As always, maintenance is the key....it pays
    to drain and refill the rear axle every 30k or so, (a 15 minute job,
    and 2.8 litres of fluid available at all factors etc) and it should
    also be drained and refilled at any time if the axle has been immersed
    in water over 500mm deep, as the rapidly cooling diff sucks in water
    through the bearings and the axle breathers......

    John
    NZ - Sat 26th July 2014 06:45am (GMT)

 
Subject : Oil breather
My 2001 2.7 Auto developed smoke from oil breather,filler cap and
around that area, Spanish mechanic changed oil,filter and cleaned
breather with Benzine but problem has come back after 3-4 weeks.Nissan
garage here says if I change breather 247€.... the problem will come
back as its an old car,no offer of flushing oil, is there another
valve maybe thats blocked

Ray Mynott
Fuengirola, Malaga, Spain - Tue 01st July 2014 11:29am (GMT)
  • Subject : Oil breather
    The PCV (positive crankcase ventilation ) system draws air mixed with
    oil fumes out of the engine and into the air intake through the rubber
    pipe leading from the rocker cover to the plastic tubing (just in
    front of the turbo) from the air filter. If you blow through this you
    should notice no effort is required to blow; it free-flows
    air.
    Google "catch tank" and you will see that you can separate
    out most of the oil mist..except when the engine is worn out. Then
    the blow-by gases leaking past the piston rings overwhelm the system,
    and the crankcase has a positive (pressurised) amount of air inside
    which will escape from every hole it can find....resulting in oily
    pastches like you have at the joints in the engine, such as rocker
    cover, oil filler hole, turbo piping and joints etc.
    So, is your
    vehicle that old and worn that no matter how many holes and rubber
    tubes you were to put in it would still have excess pressure and
    leaks?
    If so, you will need to either fix it or scrap it.
    May
    I suggest that you mostly ignore it, but keep an eye on the severity
    of the oil fumes produced. If that gets too much, Google "runaway
    engine" and see what could happen if the fumes actually start fuelling
    the engine.....

    John
    NZ - Wed 02nd July 2014 10:46am (GMT)

 
Subject : Rough idle td2.7
My 97 teranno 2.7TD has developed a rough idle and low speed cutting
out.Starts first kick and goes well at normal speeds with no loss of
power but gets rather jerky when coming off the throttle.All filters
have been replaced and the maf sensor carefully cleaned but no
difference.Would appreciate any ideas before I do the sensible thing
and take it to a diesel mechanic.Cheers Laurie

Iaurie
Cheshunt, Victoria, Australia - Tue 01st July 2014 02:12am (GMT)
  • Subject : Rough idle td2.7
    Laurie, what about first ringing the diesel expert to see if he has a
    a scan tool to check what trouble codes might be lurking in the ECU
    brain? This could give the diesel expert (who may or may not have a
    scan tool) a clue or a confirmation as to the problem.


    John
    NZ - Tue 01st July 2014 06:39am (GMT)

    • Subject : Rough idle td2.7
      A reading showing No1 injector lift sensor problem can also mean any
      one of the injectors or all of them have a problem..how many kms on
      the clock?
      Ever had the injectors overhauled/replaced? Any
      problems with water/crap in the fuel? Dirty fuel filters a problem
      before you changed in the last filter? Ever had a look at the small
      gauze filter under the banjo bolt on the fuel line connection to the
      injector pump? Glow plugs tested and all firing correctly at start up
      including up to 50 degrees c during warmup? Any smoke out the tail
      pipe in excess of what it used to be?

      John
      NZ - Tue 01st July 2014 06:45am (GMT)

      • Subject : Rough idle td2.7
        Took it to a diesel shop today and was told actuator valve was the
        prob and over $2000 to fix or $18000 !!for reconditioned pump.This for
        a car worth $3500 tops.Will wait till I get home for another
        quote..Cheers John..Laurie

        Laurie
        Ceshunt, Victoria, Australia - Wed 02nd July 2014 07:13am (GMT)

        • Subject : Rough idle td2.7
          The suction control valve is a lot cheaper than that to buy....
          John
          NZ - Fri 04th July 2014 11:06am (GMT)

 
Subject : Noise
I have a humming noise while driving though it was wheel bearing so
changed passenger side, but still humming but worse got drivers front
wheel bearing change 6 months ago. When turning left at roughly 30mph
it's worse but a lot quieter when turning right. Someone says it's the
front diff but wouldn't the diff humm and wine all the time and not
get worse or less noise when turning left or right???

Gordon hylands
Renfrew , Glasgow, UK - Sat 28th June 2014 05:29pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Noise
    How aggressive is your tyre pattern? Mud grips really hum, A/T gently
    hum, and HT is the quietest tread pattern.
    So, did you change
    tyres shortly before the humming started to bother you?
    If there
    has been no change in the tyres, and both wheel bearings have been
    replaced and set correctly, then the only possible noise maker left
    would be the differential, which actually works harder when you are
    turning than when you run in a straight line.
    You did not say the
    make, model, year and gearbox/hi-lo ratio etc of your particular
    vehicle, so the following may/not apply?
    Is your vehicle permanent
    4WD? Or is it selectable? Does it have auto- engaging hubs? Do you
    know if these work properly..i.e. if they actually are
    disengaging?
    If both sides are disengaged the steering effort is
    slight. Both engaged, the steering effort is high. One side not
    disengaged will pull strongly towards that side.
    Please get back
    to us with more details if this does not fit your situation....

    John
    NZ - Sun 29th June 2014 01:25am (GMT)

 
Subject : nissan navara auto gearbox
By mistake when i was checking coolant level, i interchanged the caps
- for radiator cap and breather cap. the problem now is the car is not
moving fast as it used to be. its like the gears are taking time to
change and is making a lot of raving noise before it changes to the
next gear. i have done all the service, but nothing has changed. the
manual book is saying the engine may overheat if you interchange the
caps. what should i do, please help, i bought the car recently, its a
2007 model, 4by4 2.5 dci. please help i am very desperate and i do not
know what i should do now

james
keyness, Hetfordshire, uk - Thu 26th June 2014 09:24am (GMT)
  • Subject : nissan navara auto gearbox
    Keyness, you cannot be helped. the last time you posted this on
    another website you were from Africa..troll.

    John
    NZ - Fri 27th June 2014 06:27am (GMT)

    • Subject : nissan navara auto gearbox
      http://www.roadtestreports.co.uk/questions-and-answers/nissan/Navara/

      james, Botswana
      Nissan Navara

      recently imported my
      car from Uk to Botswana. By mistake i interchanged the radiator cap
      and the breather cap. Its no longer speeding as it used to do. gears
      are taking time to move to the next gear (automatic). i have changed,
      oil, filters but nothing has changed. Any idea what this might be.
      Please help. the car is Nissan Navara Aventura 2.5 DCI, AUTOMATIC ,
      2007 model. its hard to drive

      Answers

      James, take
      your vehicle to a mechanic. Anyone that can't tell the difference
      between a radiator cap and a breather cap NEEDS to see a mechanic. you
      have probably done other damage to the vehicle and you will do more
      damage if you don't go and see a mechanic. John Smith from New
      Zealand

      Submitted: 26/05/2014 14:58:18 | ID: 96191

      John
      NZ - Fri 27th June 2014 06:36am (GMT)

 
Subject : terrano 2.7 sunroof
My sunroof is not working when press the switch, At first it was just
clcking and moving up down about half an inch,Now it has stopt
clicking alltogether with no movement or sound,

Barry McHale
runcorn, cheshire, UK - Wed 25th June 2014 09:07am (GMT)
  • Subject : terrano 2.7 sunroof
    http://www.justanswer.com/nissan/2ozjt-1998-nissan-pathfinder-sunroof-
    leaking.html

    John
    NZ - Thu 26th June 2014 07:12am (GMT)

    • Subject : terrano 2.7 sunroof
      terranoirk.ru/forums/manual/R20/bt.pdf
      John
      NZ - Thu 26th June 2014 07:21am (GMT)

 
Subject : nissan pathfiner
Does a terrano 2.7 engine fit in a pathfinder
david
Banbridge, UK - Tue 17th June 2014 10:23pm (GMT)
  • Subject : nissan pathfiner
    Possibly if you lay it down on it's side and have both rear seats down
    you might be able to get it in.

    John
    NZ - Wed 18th June 2014 06:45am (GMT)

  • Subject : nissan pathfiner
    What I was ment to say can it go into the engine bay as a replacement
    david
    Banbridge, UK - Wed 18th June 2014 07:32am (GMT)

    • Subject : nissan pathfiner
      David, what engine is in there at the moment? Is it a manual gearbox,
      because if it is an auto, you will have to cobble together an ECU,a
      new bell housing, flywheel and flex plate as well...
      in most
      cases unless you are replacing like for like the end result is an
      expensive time and cash devouring orphan with little resale value.

      John
      NZ - Thu 19th June 2014 04:02am (GMT)

 
Subject : Speedo sensor
Nissan navara 96 d21 4x4 speedo sensor are they the same as 2wd of
same model

Barry
Yeppoon , QLD , Australia - Thu 05th June 2014 08:51am (GMT)
  • Subject : Speedo sensor
    99% certainty that the sensor would be the same if the type of
    transmission (automatic) is the same. Wanna bet???
    If not, ask
    your Nissan dealer parts department if the part numbers are the same
    for both models...they should know..

    john
    NZ - Mon 09th June 2014 04:20am (GMT)

 
Subject :
hi does anyone know how difficult it is to change the front down pipe
exhaust on a 98 auto terrano ?thanks ste

ste
- UK - Wed 04th June 2014 02:20pm (GMT)
  • Subject :
    Haven't done it to my own, but there is always a problem with exhaust
    where corroded fasteners slow things down. Plus, do you have a
    replacement pipe ready to install? If not, you will need one.....

    John
    NZ - Mon 09th June 2014 04:23am (GMT)

 
Subject : Nissan Terrano Used car parts
I am looking for a used starter motor and waterpump
Val
Waitakere City, NZ, UK - Mon 02nd June 2014 12:36pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Nissan Terrano Used car parts
    Try Trade Me or a wrecker who is linked to all other wreckers in NZ
    for guaranteed results.

    John
    NZ - Mon 02nd June 2014 10:07pm (GMT)

 
Subject : Nissan Mistral
hi there, i have a 94 Nissan Mistral that take a bit longer to change
gears from 2nd gear to 3rd gear (rpm goes up to 2500 then only change
the gears), 1st to 2nd is ok,is that something to do with tranny? did
an ATF changed a week ago, still no luck. hope someone can give me
some advise.

Alwinn
Auckland, NZ, NZ - Tue 27th May 2014 02:22pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Nissan Mistral
    Do you have a power/normal/hold button on the dash? If so, make sure
    it is in "Normal" mode. "Power' will hold in the gears to a higher rev
    than usual before ther trans changes up..just what your symptoms
    are....

    John
    NZ - Wed 28th May 2014 04:20am (GMT)

 
Subject : terrano 3.0l
hi i have a Nissan Terrano 3.0l 04 plate it has slowly lost power over
last couple of months..
Iv serviced it with all
filters..
ehaust was blowing in flexi at front of motor fixed that
as well.
Toady the turbo was making alot of noise an in result
after stopping the motor is smoking with white an blue smoke
continually an the engine knows flutters on its own as you take your
foot of the throttle.
is this sounding just like a turbo prob or
more????
pls can some one give me advice as its a clean motor..

jemma
Norwich, uk, UK - Mon 26th May 2014 09:17am (GMT)
  • Subject : terrano 3.0l
    Jemma, frankly this doesn't sound good...I would suspect the turbo
    bearings being worn out. Please do not drive the vehicle as when the
    bearing really let go at speed, the engine can "run away" as the oil
    from the crankcase is pumped into the intake and becomes fuel for the
    engine. You cannot stop it by turning off the key. Google runaway
    diesel to see it happen.
    You need to see a good mechanic who will
    assess the situation before informing you of the best course of
    action.
    The turbo will cost, but the worry is any other damage to
    the engine itself from bits that may have been ground off the turbo
    blades etc.
    If you are going to deal with the engine on a DIY
    basis, unbolt the turbo to have it overhauled, ask the overhauler to
    assess and ascertain what fragments of blades may be missing,and
    before giving him the ok to overhaul the turbo, check for those bits
    in the inlet manifold, AND check cylinder compressions.
    If all
    your compressions are good, and there are no bits found, go ahead with
    the overhaul and bolt the overhauled turbo back on and see what
    happens.
    You may be lucky....

    However if damage to the
    motor has also occurred, then it may be better to replace it with a
    second hand good one from a wrecker.

    John
    NZ - Wed 28th May 2014 04:36am (GMT)

 
Subject : nissan sd33t
What would make a poping sound coming from the exhaust
Trevor
Adelaide, South Australia, Australia - Sun 25th May 2014 10:08am (GMT)
  • Subject : nissan sd33t
    If you had a Pope in your exhaust pipe, he could make a poping sound.
    However, the normal "popping" on overrun is an occasional partially
    unburnt charge of air and fuel not completely burnt in the engine
    which exits the exhaust valve and is then ignited by another exiting
    and still burning charge from an adjacent cylinder. "Pop" goes the
    exhaust. Big bore exhausts with straight through mufflers emphasise
    this otherwise non- harmful sound.

    John
    NZ - Mon 26th May 2014 06:23am (GMT)

  • Subject : nissan sd33t
    So check your ignition components, coil packs, HT wires, but most of
    all, sparkplugs.

    John
    - NZ - Mon 26th May 2014 06:25am (GMT)

 
Subject :
help needed have 98 tdi lwb auto the problem is that when moving 4wd
lever the light on the dash does not come on has anyone else had this
problem if so how would u fix it many thanks ..daz

daz
- UK - Wed 21st May 2014 07:59pm (GMT)
  • Subject :
    Replies to previous posts with electrical problems which you can read
    in this thread point towards known poor grounding points needing
    cleaning, and to every connector going to the transmission units
    needing to be taken apart and sprayed with contact cleaner. After
    doing that, start looking at a blown bulb in the dash.

    John
    NZ - Thu 22nd May 2014 05:24am (GMT)

 
Subject :
A young fellow I know has just brought a 1994 Nissan terrano and when
he gets up to open road speed the auto starts to slip and the engine
starts to rev . Its ok around town at lower speeds . Is the auto
stuffed .The trannsmission has just had a service . Any thoughts ????

Steve
ashburton, nz - Sat 17th May 2014 07:07am (GMT)
  • Subject :
    Did the slippage start immediately after the service? Was the vehicle
    O.K. before that? What fluid did they put in the trans?
    (Nissanmatic/dex 3 or equivalent (not Dex 4,5,6) What did they find
    when they took the old filter out? Did they cut the old filter open
    with shears and look at the debris? Any metal filings in the pan when
    it was inspected and cleaned? Is there enough fluid in the trans? Is
    it actually getting into lock up overdrive, then slipping back out e.g
    goes in as usual at 60kmh, then gets to 100 and slips????

    John
    NZ - Sun 18th May 2014 06:15am (GMT)

 
Subject : engine swap concerns on vg30i to vg30e nissan
my 86 2wd v6 truck-vg30i- timing belt broke an destroyed the inferance
motor. looking to replace with a 94 v6-vg30e 4x4 pathfinder
engine...may have been automatic. other than intake-and thottle body
vs fuel rail system difference what stop the exchange...will the
timing cover or oil pumps or pans or brackets on front
swap out
and pumps does 2wd-4wd matter or the 86-94 v6 change over work?

frank
birmingham, alabama, Usa - Sat 03rd May 2014 01:15pm (GMT)
 
Subject : nissan terrano cutting out
Hi have a 2000 reg 2.7 diesel nissan terrano automatic. It is cutting
out sometimes when I select drive or reverse or it can cut out when
the revs drop to idling speed and then I go to accelerate off. The EM
light is coming on the only fault code I am getting is fuel injector
no1 fault? Is it just the injector sensor at fault or cud it be a
number of faults? Any help appreciated thanks.

Scott
bargoed, Caerphilly, UK - Wed 23rd April 2014 12:27am (GMT)
  • Subject : nissan terrano cutting out
    You would be wise to start by replacing that No1 sensor, as that is
    the most likely cause of all those problems.
    Once you have
    replaced that, get the technician to remove all the fault codes in the
    computer, and drive until the EM light comes on again. with any luck,
    it won't!
    Look at directly buying the Bosch No1 unit yourself
    rather than going through the dealer and paying very large amounts of
    money.
    Google is your friend....

    John
    NZ - Thu 24th April 2014 07:26am (GMT)

  • Subject : nissan terrano cutting out
    http://community.preloved.co.uk/forums/discussion/53468/nissan-terrano
    -27td-injector-sensor.html

    The injector problem may be more
    than one injector being the problem but the problem shows up in the
    no1 injector code...

    John
    - NZ - Thu 08th May 2014 02:06pm (GMT)

 
Subject : Starting
Hi there,my 1995 mistral 2.7diesel auto starts when I turn key
ignition on,without turning to Starter,and starter wont stop running
on ignition or start.The engine starts and starter motor keeps
running.Then it works fine ,but will fault again anytime.I have
checked ,starter ,ignition switch replaced,checked all terminals ,have
I missed something or have you seen this fault before. Cheers Joe
Greig

joe greig
Auckland new zealand, North Shore, New Zealand - Mon 21st April 2014 05:29am (GMT)
  • Subject : Starting
    Could there be a "feedback" somewhere in the hot wire to the terminal
    of the starter solenoid?
    More likely, is the starter solenoid
    "sticky" so that when the solenoid is energised, it pulls the plunger
    which engages the starter, the the main contacts are bridged, the
    starter turns and keeps running even when the key is
    released.
    Even if the solenoid is de-energised, (key turned back
    to Run or off) the rod/piston keeps it's forward position and the
    starter keeps turning until vibration rattles the actuator rod loose
    again.
    Take out the starter and check the solenoid very carefully
    and actuate it "on the bench" to check....
    In fact solenoids are
    not very expensive and it might pay to just replace it....

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Mon 21st April 2014 12:36pm (GMT)

    • Subject : Starting
      Before replacing the solenoid, clean and clean and clean the rest of
      the mechanism until the engagement and disengagement movement is
      smooth.

      John
      NZ - Mon 21st April 2014 12:40pm (GMT)

 
Subject : japanese fuse box
Hi, i have a nissan mistral/terrano 97 , does any one got an english
version of fuse box sticker? mine is on japanese...cheers..

prince
- nz - Wed 16th April 2014 03:40am (GMT)
  • Subject : japanese fuse box
    What are you trying to find out?
    Using a DMM (digital
    multi-meter)turning the key on and probing the little metal ends of
    the fuse as they stick out of the fuse box will tell you if the fuse
    is Ok or not, and leaving the key off after all fuses test ok and then
    retesting fuses tells you which fuse is live all the time.
    The
    rating of the fuses should be in arabic numerals.....10,15,20,30

    John
    NZ - Wed 16th April 2014 05:24am (GMT)

 
Subject : engine cutting out
Hi I have a 2000 reg 2.7 auto terrano. It has recently started to cut
out when I select drive or reverse? It also cut out once while
driving. The management light is now on altho I do not know code as
yet. Where do I start to look thanks

Scott Lovesey
Bargoed, Gwent, UK - Sat 22nd March 2014 09:20pm (GMT)
  • Subject : engine cutting out
    You start by looking at the trouble codes in the computer.
    That is
    what will give you the answers to some of the questions.

    Doug
    UK - Tue 25th March 2014 03:32am (GMT)

 
Subject : engine cutting out
Hi I have a 2000 reg 2.7 auto terrano. It has recently started to cut
out when I select drive or reverse? It also cut out once while
driving. The management light is now on altho I do not know code as
yet. Where do I start to look thanks

Scott Lovesey
Bargoed, Gwent, UK - Sat 22nd March 2014 09:19pm (GMT)
  • Subject : engine cutting out
    I shall say this only once..again..
    You start by looking at the
    trouble codes in the computer.
    That is
    what will give you the
    answers to some of the questions.

    Doug
    UK - Tue 25th March 2014 03:33am (GMT)

    • Subject : engine cutting out
      Hi thanks Doug the code has come back as the no1 fuel injector sensor?
      Is this the cause or could it be the tip if the iceberg? It cuts out
      when drive or reverse is selected but does sometimes cut out when I
      slow down to idling speed then go to accelerate? Any help appreciated
      thanks

      Scott Lovesey
      Bargoed, Caerphilly, UK - Tue 22nd April 2014 07:46pm (GMT)

      • Subject : engine cutting out
        Now look up No1 injector sensor on the web, see what it does, see what
        is typical of the faults that a failing/failed No1 injector engenders,
        and find the replacement injector via a trade connection buying
        generic Bosch rather than paying retail at Nissan dealers...you'll see
        why when you price it.
        It's not a biggie to replace the injector
        yourself, or if you don't want to do this, give it to your mechanic to
        do. Then after replacement, clear all the codes, drive the vehicle and
        see if any other codes come up and if driveability improves..which it
        will.

        Doug
        UK - Thu 08th May 2014 07:36am (GMT)

        • Subject : engine cutting out
          http://community.preloved.co.uk/forums/discussion/53468/nissan-terrano

          -27td-injector-sensor.html

          The injector problem may be
          more
          than one injector being the problem but the problem shows up
          in the
          no1 injector code...

          John
          NZ - Wed 28th May 2014 11:30pm (GMT)

 
Subject :
change the fuel filter on my nissan terrano2 diesal 1999 and ever
since its
running
rough engine light comes on white smoke
from exhaust
replace fuel filter again for expensive make still
no
diffrence
all pipes are clear fiter in bango bolt clear
charcoal
filter on tank was blown out still nothing can anyone
PLEASE advise
mally

mally
daventry, northampton, UK - Sun 16th March 2014 01:33pm (GMT)
  • Subject :
    as per below..try running the engine with the engine stationary and
    the charcoal filter disconnected, in case your "blowing it clear"
    actually coagulated/clumped up all the carbon granules......affecting
    the flow of circulating air/fuel???

    Doug
    UK - Tue 18th March 2014 07:32am (GMT)

    • Subject :
      yes i did disconect the charcoal filter at 1st was great then back to
      problem

      i blew charcoal filter out with airline crud came out
      but .........

      mally
      daventry, UK - Tue 18th March 2014 04:13pm (GMT)

      • Subject :
        Alright, now you should definitely replace the charcoal filter, since,
        as you tested, it went alright at first after you disconnected it.
        Logically, the absence of the filter allowed more air circulation..but
        that may then be too much air ingestion if it is not constricted by
        the filter medium. So, to attain the right balance of air, replace
        the filter with a new one..and don't blow it out again....

        Doug
        UK - Wed 19th March 2014 02:37am (GMT)

 
Subject :
change the fuel filter on my nissan terrano2 diesal and ever since its
running
rough engine light comes on white smoke from exhaust
replace fuel filter again for expensive make still no
diffrence
all pipes are clear fiter in bango bolt clear charcoal
filter on tank was blown out still nothing can anyone PLEASE advise

mally
daventry, northampton, UK - Sun 16th March 2014 01:31pm (GMT)
  • Subject :
    Get the computer scanned for the codes which will tell you what the
    problem is. It may be a coincidence that all the roughness started
    after the filter change, maybe some crud got through into the
    injection pump..but before panicking, GET THE CODES READ.
    What do
    you mean about the charcoal filter being blown out? How did you blow
    it?
    these are supposed to be replaced, as they are a non
    serviceable item...

    Doug
    UK - Tue 18th March 2014 07:29am (GMT)

 
Subject : Wiring harness
I have a 1993 nissan 4x4 pickup that
I have converted from a v6
Standard
to a td27turbo diesel automatic.I have
not been able
to find the schematic to
wire up the transmission control module.I
thought that if I couldn't find the schematic mabe easier to
find
a used complete or main wiring harness.
Thank you Dan
Heina

dan Heina
McAllen, Texas, USA - Fri 14th March 2014 08:09pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Wiring harness
    This is for the Terrano 2 (also known as the Mistral in world markets
    other than the UK, which is Spanish made, uses the same basic engine
    but with electronic controls and intercooler, same transmssion with
    it's ECU.
    hope this
    helps..
    http://bebrs.pie-dabas.net/Webs/Terrano/R20/at.pdf

    John
    New Zealand - Sun 16th March 2014 07:13am (GMT)

 
Subject :
hi need help 96 terrano diesel leaking heater matrix how could I
bypass this for a while .thanks

daz
- UK - Wed 12th March 2014 02:31pm (GMT)
  • Subject :
    There should be two hoses leading from the front of the engine near
    the thermostat housing to the heater matrix at the firewall. One is
    the input and one the return. Disconnect both hoses from at the
    thermostat housing and replace them with one hose connecting both the
    inlet and outlet on the thermostat housing. You could use one of the
    heater hoses if you disconnec it at the heater matrix as well and loop
    it. The coolant then cannot circulate through the heater matrix. You
    can still drive the vehicle without a problem.
    Are you sure it is
    a leaking matrix and not just a leaking connection at the firewall?
    Check that first.

    John
    NZ - Thu 13th March 2014 12:25am (GMT)

 
Subject : nissan 4x4 p/up
is all nissan 4x4x pickup 3.2 valve?
alfred auman aritrangco
- cagayan de oro city, philippines - Fri 07th March 2014 08:26pm (GMT)
  • Subject : nissan 4x4 p/up
    Can you explain a little further, please?
    Are you referring to the
    number of intake and exhaust valves on the Nissan 3.2 litre diesel?

    John
    NZ - Sat 08th March 2014 05:14am (GMT)

 
Subject : PR50 Speedo
Hi I've a 97 2.4 Diesel Auto PR50 Pathfinder in the US, R3M Terrano in
Japan & the Speedo has stopped working.

I took it to a dealer
in France today who said they sender is working but couldn't go any
further because they didn't have any circuit or wiring
diagrams.

Does anyone know if & where these are obtainable
from?

I've isolated the wire that feeds the speedo behind the
instrument pack, does anyone know if that is an analogue or pulse
signal?

Thanks in advance

Nick Thompson
Guingamp, France - Tue 11th February 2014 09:28pm (GMT)
  • Subject : PR50 Speedo
    If you read through this site you would find numerous references to
    this particular model's problems with the printed circuit board in the
    dash having breaks occurring over time causing intermittent faults on
    most of the instruments, but particularly the speedo and tacho. There
    is a UK firm that will work on them and repair them..google is your
    friend.

    John
    NZ - Tue 11th February 2014 10:09pm (GMT)

    • Subject : PR50 Speedo
      Thanks, I did search & found others with the same problem on this BBS
      but no real answer.

      I'll check the PCB tomorrow.

      Nick Thompson
      Guingamp, France - Tue 11th February 2014 11:25pm (GMT)

      • Subject : PR50 Speedo
        Yep, people get help but very few can be bothered informing of the
        final result.
        Possibly because it was too painful on the wallet to
        want to remember or post it????

        John
        NZ - Tue 11th February 2014 11:33pm (GMT)

      • Subject : PR50 Speedo
        I checked the PCB on the back of the speedo & could find any broken
        tracks or bad solder joints, although it did take me back 45 years to
        the couple of months I spent on PCB inspection during my
        apprenticeship.

        I'll ask again, does anyone know if the
        circuit & wiring diagrams are available & what signal goes to the
        dash?

        Nick Thompson
        Guingamp, France - Wed 12th February 2014 11:55am (GMT)

        • Subject : PR50 Speedo
          Nick, how did you go with repairs?
          John
          NZ - Thu 17th April 2014 03:30am (GMT)

 
Subject : Hard wire a SatNav
Hi, I have a Nissan Terrano and want to hard wire my SatNav. Could
someone tell me please how to get cable through to the dash and where
to connect wires to. I do have the correct fused kit but no
instructions.
Thanking you in advance
Sid.

Sid Wooddeson
Ramsgate, Kent, UK - Thu 30th January 2014 02:57pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Hard wire a SatNav
    Is this an in-dash sat nav or a dash top one?
    Doug
    UK - Sat 01st February 2014 01:23am (GMT)

 
Subject : nissan terrano
Hi my nissan has a real judder at about the 50mph speed then goes away
above 60mph. Have changed all the wheels, had it balanced, but
neither seems to improve it. would welcome any ideas/help

emma
newport, shropshire, UK - Wed 29th January 2014 05:20pm (GMT)
  • Subject : nissan terrano
    What year? Which gearbox? How do you engage 4wd? How do you disengage
    it? Which engine? Do you have a limited slip differential rear axle?
    When was the last time the rear axle fluid was changed if you do have
    an LSD? Did you use the right fluid for LSD? Have you greased the slip
    yoke on the drive shafts front and rear (if you have greaseable slip
    joints)? Have you checked the play in the universal joints? Ever had
    problems with the brakes? Does judder rise and fall in intensity with
    speed change? Can you "drive through it" ie going faster or slower
    eliminates the judder? Any warning lights showing on the dash? Did
    this start after any particular event ie did you engage 4WD for the
    first time after a long spell in 2wd?
    The most obvious is worn
    out bushes in the rear radius arms, those large steel rods that
    connect the body to the axle and stop it moving backwards and
    forwards. Google "death wobble in pathfinder" It is not too hard to
    have the bushes replaced except it needs a large hydraulic press so
    probably best to leave it to a mechanic that has one. You can buy
    replacement bushes, jack the vehicle up and remove the links/radius
    arms, then take them to him to do the pressing.

    John
    NZ - Wed 29th January 2014 10:24pm (GMT)

 
Subject : 1992 2.8 turbo patrol
Has anybody got an idea what may be causing a heavy clonk from the
front of my Patrol I have had it looked at by a garage on the ramp but
they cant find anything wrong.It happens when you go from lock to lock
and sometimes over a bump,you can feel the clonk through the floor
when your driving ,its very worrying .I have had the car from new and
its immaculate and has only 50.000 mls on the clock, any ideas.

barry lee
HASTINGS, East Sussex, UK - Sat 25th January 2014 08:25am (GMT)
  • Subject : 1992 2.8 turbo patrol
    Two possible things; the most likely is metal to metal contact on the
    "wheel stops" which is limits your steering. usually they have nylon
    pads, these wear, them it grauches on full lock when the suspension
    moves up and down. Solved with a dab of grease on the stops (4 of
    them, two each side, for and aft.
    Raise both front wheels off the
    ground and turn the steering onto full lock, you'll see what limits
    the travel, and you will also see bright metal caused by this
    rubbing.
    Second possibility if it truly is a clonk, is worn sway
    bar (also known as anti roll bar bushes, both those on the suspension
    A arms and on the bar to chassis mounts.
    These are easily
    replaced, should take less than one hour, buy poly bushes nd look on
    youtube for instructional videos

    John
    NZ - Sun 26th January 2014 12:27am (GMT)

 
Subject : nissan r3mr 2.7 diesel, 1996 spares wanted
Please can anyone help, I want front shocks for this vehicle, must be
in good working condition, thanks in advance, julian

julian cornmell
gloucester, gloucestershire, UK - Sat 18th January 2014 09:03am (GMT)
  • Subject : nissan r3mr 2.7 diesel, 1996 spares wanted
    Don't waste your time with second hand shocks unless you know and
    trust the seller.

    John
    NZ - Sun 19th January 2014 06:55am (GMT)

    • Subject : nissan r3mr 2.7 diesel, 1996 spares wanted
      Hi, thanks, have purchased new as you advised,
      Cheers
      Julian

      julian cornmell
      gloucester, gloucestershire, UK - Thu 23rd January 2014 07:28am (GMT)

      • Subject : nissan r3mr 2.7 diesel, 1996 spares wanted
        Thanks for that. You won't regret it and the change for the better in
        handling is amazing. Do you have any sort of a wobble/judder in the
        rear of the vehicle at speed 55 to 60 mph? That will be the radius arm
        bushings needing replacement: Google "pathfinder death wobble" for
        details...

        John
        NZ - Thu 30th January 2014 04:28am (GMT)

  • Subject : nissan r3mr 2.7 diesel, 1996 spares wanted
    get in touch with milners at matlock very fast and friendly service
    they only cater for jap 4x4's and very reasonable prices

    richard
    derbyshire, UK - Mon 20th January 2014 05:38pm (GMT)

  • Subject : nissan r3mr 2.7 diesel, 1996 spares wanted
    Can anyone advise please,the above vehicle is consuming a lot of
    diesel. Also black diesel smoke on hard acceleration, and flat spot,
    thanks in advance

    julian cornmell
    varna, bulgaria, Bulgaria - Tue 15th April 2014 05:06am (GMT)

    • Subject : nissan r3mr 2.7 diesel, 1996 spares wanted
      Have you computer codes read/scanned first. This may give you a clue.
      Also read through this site and Google the fault as there are many
      causes of this, most of which have previously been covered.

      John
      NZ - Thu 17th April 2014 03:39am (GMT)

 
Subject : nissan terrano 2002 3.0L
Hi I wondered if anyone can help me? My terrano's engine management
light keeps coming on, with loss of power, smoking unburnt fuel out
the back! Been in garage now on and off since end of november! When
been put on diagnostics by my garage and my local nissans error code
P7-F timing FB has come up a pump timing control system fault.my
mechanic has replaced the solanoid on the diesal pump and had the ecu
on it sent off with no fault found! Nissan have also checked all
wiring to pump and from ECM and checked lives/earths for pump all ok!
they have said fault is either with pump or ecm.ecm has now been sent
away for testing and surely if main part of pump was faulty it would
not function full stop not this constant intermittent problem? Any
ideas or input welcome, many thanks.

sharon
weymouth, dorset, UK - Thu 16th January 2014 09:28pm (GMT)
  • Subject : nissan terrano 2002 3.0L
    Au contraire, possibly it is an ECM problem as intermittent
    functioning is most likely to be electronic circuit related, possibly
    something like a dry solder joint on a circuit board in the ECM.
    Driving the vehicle produces vibrations. The right vibrations make the
    circuit complete; wrong vibrations, temperature variations etc expand
    or flex the board and break the circuit causing problems.
    By any
    chance is there a particular length of time after starting to drive
    that the problems occur?
    Does it happen shortly after hitting a
    particular bump/roughness in the road? Does it happen on hot days, or
    cold? I presume that the problem is not there when the engine is
    cold????
    Wait for the diagnosis from Nissan.
    If there is no
    fault found, that doesn't mean that there is no fault in the unit; it
    just means testing it on the bench without the surrounding vehicle and
    normal driving conditions cannot replicate or induce the fault. The
    ultimate test is swapping a known good unit from a vehicle with no
    fault into your vehicle and driving to see if the fault happens again.
    If it does, then the problem is in the wiring leading to and from the
    injector pump, or in the injector pump itself; again, bench testing
    without the vehicle moving may not induce the fault. This is why
    mechanics hate intermittent faults....
    PS ask if this particular
    model engine has a sensor on the No1 injector and if they have checked
    or replaced it...unfortunately they are quite pricey..

    John
    NZ - Fri 17th January 2014 09:42am (GMT)

  • Subject : nissan terrano 2002 3.0L
    How did the diagnosis go? Did you acquire and test a known good unit
    in situ and find out that the ECM was indeed at fault???

    John
    - NZ - Tue 11th February 2014 11:35pm (GMT)

    • Subject : nissan terrano 2002 3.0L
      Hi ya! Our terrrano still off the road! We sent main ecm unders
      drivers dash off for testing and it came back that it had a diode
      blown which has now been repaired....the repairer said not to refit it
      as they believe a host wiring fault caused it! We are now waiting for
      an auto electrition to come and check the car. Before this all
      happened I have thought of a few things that have happened on car and
      wondered if they are connected to our presents probs? 1, before the
      engine management light first came on last august while towing ,my
      husband changed the twin electric towing sockets on the car and since
      then the towing indicator sounder goes off even when not towing! Could
      this b connected? 2, our alarm siren sounder does not work when alarm
      triggered only hazzards! I assumed it was the siren unit faulty and
      was getting round to getting it looked at but was not a priority for
      me at the time! Could this b connected? 3, also in around
      september/october car was struggling to start in the mornings...garage
      found all 4 glowplugs had blown! These were replaced last year as well
      including the relay which was blowing first then they found the glow
      plug prob! This time round car was repearedly struggling to start for
      longer....Could this b connected? 4, temp guage stopped working for a
      short time after intial work was done on diesal pump (the ecm to b
      precise) then it started working again with no intervention! Could
      this b connected? 5, while being diagnosed at nissans they found an
      airbag fault logged in the system, but light on dash doesnt work as
      bulb at some point before I got car has been removed! Also some dash
      bulbs have blown and stereo lcd display doesnt work but this has been
      like it since I bought car and I again was about to get this repaired
      or replaced but wasnt a priority as stereo itself worked fine! Could
      this b connected? Any input would b greatly appreciated as I just want
      my car back on road now with problem sorted, I am pursuing the issue
      with this car as before all this happened she was an excellant and
      economical tow car and is overall immaculate but this is becoming
      increasingly frustrating as no obvious cause apart from fault on ecm
      has been found yet!?! Help! Many thanks in advance.

      sharon
      weymouth, UK - Wed 12th February 2014 03:40pm (GMT)

    • Subject : nissan terrano 2002 3.0L
      Hi ya! Our terrrano still off the road! We sent main ecm unders
      drivers dash off for testing and it came back that it had a diode
      blown which has now been repaired....the repairer said not to refit it
      as they believe a host wiring fault caused it! We are now waiting for
      an auto electrition to come and check the car. Before this all
      happened I have thought of a few things that have happened on car and
      wondered if they are connected to our presents probs? 1, before the
      engine management light first came on last august while towing ,my
      husband changed the twin electric towing sockets on the car and since
      then the towing indicator sounder goes off even when not towing! Could
      this b connected? 2, our alarm siren sounder does not work when alarm
      triggered only hazzards! I assumed it was the siren unit faulty and
      was getting round to getting it looked at but was not a priority for
      me at the time! Could this b connected? 3, also in around
      september/october car was struggling to start in the mornings...garage
      found all 4 glowplugs had blown! These were replaced last year as well
      including the relay which was blowing first then they found the glow
      plug prob! This time round car was repearedly struggling to start for
      longer....Could this b connected? 4, temp guage stopped working for a
      short time after intial work was done on diesal pump (the ecm to b
      precise) then it started working again with no intervention! Could
      this b connected? 5, while being diagnosed at nissans they found an
      airbag fault logged in the system, but light on dash doesnt work as
      bulb at some point before I got car has been removed! Also some dash
      bulbs have blown and stereo lcd display doesnt work but this has been
      like it since I bought car and I again was about to get this repaired
      or replaced but wasnt a priority as stereo itself worked fine! Could
      this b connected? Any input would b greatly appreciated as I just want
      my car back on road now with problem sorted, I am pursuing the issue
      with this car as before all this happened she was an excellant and
      economical tow car and is overall immaculate but this is becoming
      increasingly frustrating as no obvious cause apart from fault on ecm
      has been found yet!?! Help! Many thanks in advance.

      sharon
      weymouth, UK - Wed 12th February 2014 04:01pm (GMT)

      • Subject : nissan terrano 2002 3.0L
        Just found this at the bottom of the thread...yes, I am afraid he who
        fiddled with the wiring is probably responsible for the fault in
        relation to the towing indicator.It also probably blew the diode in
        the ECM..
        Other faults not as likely to have been caused by this
        short circuit...
        Alarm siren fault should not be related to this
        as the fault could be in the alarm system itself, or in the siren
        itself crapping out.
        Glow plug problem seems endemic in these
        vehicles. As the glow plugs each consume 20 amps when lit, that's 80
        amps going through the relay..The relay will handle that, but if there
        is a direct short circuit in the glow plug or the circuit the relay
        will burn up....smoke and flames have occurred in other
        cases.
        Temp gauge coming right indicates that the connector may
        have been disturbed just enough to cause a non-circuit; the vibration
        of normal running would twitch the connecter back into the normal
        position so it worked again. Spray contact cleaner on the connection
        and wriggle it around to clean it up.
        Air bag light being removed
        is a trick used by sellers to fool buyers when there is a problem with
        the Air bag system. As soon as you replace this bulb, you will have
        that light going full time. You will need to have the computer
        scanned for the fault..it will tell you what it thinks is wrong. You
        really don't want a not-working airbag if you have a
        crash.....
        Replace the other missing or blown dash bulbs since you
        are in there anyway..the klutz that removed the airbag light may have
        done other damage to the circuit board or light sockets.The warning
        bulbs are there to help you when things go wrong before it turns into
        a catastrophe....

        John
        NZ - Tue 11th March 2014 03:24am (GMT)

 
Subject : nissan terrano 2002 3.0L
Hi I wondered if anyone can help me? My terrano's engine management
light keeps coming on, with loss of power, smoking unburnt fuel out
the back! Been in garage now on and off since end of november! When
been put on diagnostics by my garage and my local nissans error code
P7-F timing FB has come up a pump timing control system fault.my
mechanic has replaced the solanoid on the diesal pump and had the ecu
on it sent off with no fault found! Nissan have also checked all
wiring to pump and from ECM and checked lives/earths for pump all ok!
they have said fault is either with pump or ecm.ecm has now been sent
away for testing and surely if main part of pump was faulty it would
not function full stop not this constant intermittent problem? Any
ideas or input welcome, many thanks.

sharon
weymouth, dorset, UK - Thu 16th January 2014 09:27pm (GMT)
  • Subject : nissan terrano 2002 3.0L
    http://www.justanswer.com/uk-nissan/2cxw0-2002-liter-turbo-diesel-niss
    an-patrol-car-lacks.html

    http://www.exploroz.com/Forum/Topic/
    30269/30lt_GU_Patrol_engine_warning_light.aspx

    http://www.exp
    loroz.com/Forum/Topic/30269/30lt_GU_Patrol_engine_warning_light.aspx <
    br>
    http://www.motorsm.com/complaints/update/display.asp?aid=850 <
    br>
    http://www.patrol4x4.com/forum/nissan-patrol-gu-gr-10/injector
    -diesel-knock-no1-injector-rd2-8eti-fauly-no1-injector-74237/
    >http://www.caradvice.com.au/5491/2000-nissan-patrol-warranty-complain
    t/

    http://www.offroadexpress.co.nz/Forums/viewtopic.php?p=993
    67

    John
    NZ - Fri 17th January 2014 11:51am (GMT)

 
Subject : holidays
You heading for the hills these holidays john ?

steve
- canterbury, nz - Sun 22nd December 2013 04:25am (GMT)
  • Subject : holidays
    No, I'm giving my toy a run instead.
    It has 2 x 54 litre fuel
    tanks that take 95 octane, so I'm going to try to avoid too many
    hills....
    Steve, hope you have some good 4WD fun with the
    family.....

    John
    NZ - Mon 23rd December 2013 08:55am (GMT)

    • Subject : holidays
      Hmm sounds expensive .Boating ?
      Steve
      - Tue 24th December 2013 09:03am (GMT)

 
Subject : My 1996 terrano || 2.7tdi
My steering wheel vibrates but went for track in doing and the guy at
the garage said it wasn't tracking prob steering box???? Any ideas
guys thanks

Daniel turner
Rotherham, South yorkshire, UK - Tue 17th December 2013 08:47am (GMT)
  • Subject : My 1996 terrano || 2.7tdi
    If you could bring yourself to use whole sentences and explain further
    we could probably help.
    If I understand correctly, your mechanic
    said it was not a tracking problem, but possible wear in the actual
    steering box. This is usually felt by 'slack' or "play" at the
    steering wheel rim when you turn the steering wheel and nothing seems
    to happen at the front wheels.
    Google "pathfinder" and on one or
    two American sites it explains how to carefully adjust the steering
    box using the adjuster and locking nut on top of it. Turn the steering
    wheel a half turn either way, left or right, then loosen the locking
    nut, then turn the adjuster "righty-tighty" until you just feel a
    resistance to be screwed in further. Tighten lock nut, you're done.
    Going too tight could cause catastrophic steering failure. Be
    gentle.
    As Steve wrote, start with the simple things. Get your
    wheels professionally dynamically balanced, both front and rear,
    before you start looking further.
    Checks for bulges in the tyre or
    uneven wear while the tyres are off the vehicle.
    Grease your ball
    joints and steering link, plus the idler arm and check for play in all
    those areas.

    John
    - NZ - Wed 18th December 2013 10:07pm (GMT)

  • Subject : My 1996 terrano || 2.7tdi
    http://beergarage.com/PathSteerGear.aspx

    http://www.nissanpat
    hfinders.net/forum/topic/28739-tightening-steering-play/

    http
    ://www.motoiq.com/MagazineArticles/ID/1299/Project-Pathfinder-Fixing-t
    he-Wobbly-Steering-For-Good.aspx

    Doug
    - UK - Fri 20th December 2013 09:02am (GMT)

 
Subject : Battery discharging, Terrano taking long time to heat up
Thought this might be of use to Northern hemisphere Terrano
owners:
from Fixya:
Did you hear the one about the Terrano
with a charging problem?
Just fix it by replacing the
thermostat!
Seriously - check your temperature gauge does it take
ages for the needle to barely get off cold? (and is the heater
useless?)
The needle should get to just below half way in 2 or 3
minutes.
If the thermostat is stuck open, then the engine does not
get up to temperature.
The glow plug control senses the engine
temperature is cold, so the glow plugs stay on for an extended period
of time (sometimes 10 to 15 minutes) - short trips particularly in
winter, with more headlight driving - the alternator can't keep up
with the current being drawn off and from time to time you will end up
with a flat battery!
A thermostat is cheap, and easy to replace
(three bolts and about a half litre of coolant - I pumped the coolant
from the top of the radiator, and didn't spill a drop when the
thermostat housing was removed).
Sure enough, as the engine
temperature reached about 50C, the glow plugs turned off.

John
Christchurch, NZ - Fri 15th November 2013 10:17am (GMT)
  • Subject : Battery discharging, Terrano taking long time to heat up
    Good advice . Make sure you use genuine Nissan thermostat as have
    heard after market ones can have a smaller hole in them and reduces
    water flow when they are open slowing water flow and cooling .

    steve
    asvagus, nz - Fri 15th November 2013 11:15am (GMT)

  • Subject : Battery discharging, Terrano taking long time to heat up
    An American who knows his Pathfinder (Terrano)
    stuff!

    http://beergarage.com/PathThermostat.aspx

    John
    - NZ - Mon 18th November 2013 10:32am (GMT)

    • Subject : Battery discharging, Terrano taking long time to heat up
      But note that this is the procedure for the V6 petrol..the 2.7 diesel
      is much simpler as the thermostat housing is right on the top of the
      engine where the top radiator hose exits the engine...couldn't be
      simpler!
      And a universal thermostat gasket fits perfectly..

      John
      NZ - Mon 18th November 2013 10:43am (GMT)

 
Subject : nissan mistral
sorry its a automatic box
jim shep
gedling, nottingham, UK - Sun 27th October 2013 02:00pm (GMT)
  • Subject : nissan mistral
    The first thing to do is service the transmission. If you feel
    confident you can do it yourself, saving a lot of money. but it will
    involve raising the vehicle so you can get under it with a 10 litre
    container to catch the old trans fluid when you unbolt the sump. This
    may involve old fluid running down your arms , some swear words and a
    lot of rags to wipe up the inevitable spillage.
    then you remove
    the filter from the trans, making sure that the o ring that seals the
    pickup tube to the trans pump is also removed (may involve more swear
    words) and then cut (not saw) the filter into two pieces so you can
    examine the debris caught therein, which will give you an indication
    whether things are wearing a little 9normal) or a lot...oh dear, more
    swear words ...]
    Then you insert a new filter and o ring in place
    and install a new gasket and bolt up the sump.
    Now comes the
    interesting part. The torque converter is still full of old trans
    fluid. YOU SHOULD GET THIS OUT.
    Take output hose from the trans
    leading to the bottom of the radiator fluid cooler and extend it with
    another hose and place it in a bucket. tie it to the bucket with duct
    tape as the fluid squirts out and can move the hose..more swear words,
    rags required etc.
    Take another length of trans hose you have
    bought and attach one end to the input end of the trans fluid cooler
    on the radiator and extend the other end up past the engine clear of
    all whirly bits. Insert small funnel, and start pouring trans fluid
    (dexron 3) in until you replace all the fluid you drained out when you
    dropped the sump usually about 3 litres. Noe start the engine and you
    should notice that even in park the hose in the bucket will eject
    fluid.
    run engine 10 seconds, switch off, replace same amount of
    new fluid back into trans via funnel and hose. do this until the fluid
    coming out is the same nice bright pink as the fluid going
    in.
    Then reconnect the hoses as originally found; check levels as
    per book, add fluid through trans dipstick hole as required.
    Or
    take the truck to a good auto trans man, and stay and watch him do all
    this!!

    John
    NZ - Mon 28th October 2013 07:53am (GMT)

 
Subject : nissan mistral
hi my mistral is sticking in first gear but if I change gears myself
seems to be ok

jim shepherd
gedling, nottingham, UK - Sun 27th October 2013 01:56pm (GMT)
  • Subject : nissan mistral
    As above, servicing the trans is the first thing to do. I sometimes
    have the same thing happen to me, usually in cold weather, within the
    first 2 km of driving, after coming to a stop at traffic lights. In
    gear, idling, go to take off, fails to shift from first, revs past
    3,500...so I pull to the side of the road and stop, shift into
    reverse, reverse 10 metres, back into drive and away..no problems for
    the rest of the day, week, month...until it happens at random again. I
    replace the trans fluid every 30,000km (20,000miles) along with the
    filter, and have recently installed a Magnafine filter in the cooler
    line in order to try to trap the very finest particle possible which I
    think is causing this problem.
    Otherwise the trans works like a
    dream, almost 200,000km (120,000miles) I spoke to an owner of a
    similar vehicle a month ago and he stated that his had covered 2
    million kms (1.2 million miles) without overhaul using the same regime
    of maintenance. Remember, we have no salt on the roads in winter and
    the bodies just don't rust out here.......

    john
    Nz - Mon 28th October 2013 08:05am (GMT)

 
Subject : Terrano 96 / 2.7 / Auto - Whine at top gears...
Hi John, I bought this few months back and hear loud whine on top
gear. Only comes when pressed accelerator pedal. Recently changed oils
for Differential, Transfer and Auto trans. But still no difference.
When googled read on another forum saying that Nissan has advised to
fill gear box 5.1L to fix this issue... Can you please advise what
next step should be.... Thanks.

Anton
Christchurch, Canterbury, New Zealand - Tue 15th October 2013 11:33am (GMT)
  • Subject : Terrano 96 / 2.7 / Auto - Whine at top gears...
    Where do you think this whine is coming from..the actual auto trans or
    some other part of the driveline, such as the rear axle?
    Is the
    rear diff limited slip?
    Did you replace the diff oil with LSD
    compatible oil?
    Is there a specific speed that this whine starts
    at? Have you wound down your driver's window and listened to the
    tyres..do they hum at speed?
    Have you recently replaced the
    tyres?
    Which gearbox are you considering filling to 5.1 litres????

    John
    NZ - Tue 15th October 2013 12:31pm (GMT)

    • Subject : Terrano 96 / 2.7 / Auto - Whine at top gears...
      Many thanks for quick reply....
      - I'm pretty sure it comes at
      front / middle area around auto trans / transfer.
      - Yes, it's
      LSD. I filled Diff with Nulon GL5/6 oil.(But noise was same before oil
      replacement)
      - I feel whine is there whole time and increases with
      50 / 60km speed. Two weeks before I had drive out of town, still
      same.
      - It came with new tyres, but seems no relation since noise
      comes only when gas pedal pressed at any speed.

      Thanks.

      Anton
      Christchurch, NZ - Tue 15th October 2013 11:24pm (GMT)

  • Subject : Terrano 96 / 2.7 / Auto - Whine at top gears...
    The torque converter 'locks up" in top
    gear
    http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/138444-whining-noi
    se-during-acceleration-2.html

    John
    - NZ - Tue 15th October 2013 12:45pm (GMT)

  • Subject : Terrano 96 / 2.7 / Auto - Whine at top gears...
    http://www.thenissanpath.com/viewtopic.php?t=9550&sid=55895f0d806695b6
    bc65c3702889ea37

    also

    "but I have that same thing on
    my 1998 Nissan Pathfinder SE (AT). Speeds between 55mph and 60mph
    yield the loudest noise, which trails off at 75mph. My mechanic
    pointed me to a torque converter issue, which isn't going to get fixed
    on my 8-year old Path with 120K
    miles...

    also
    http://www.ehow.com/info_8770250_signs-whee
    l-bearings-need-replacing.html

    also
    I found this
    reference to increasing gearbox fluid level..note this is a MANUAL
    gearbox behind the 3 litre v6.
    You have the auto
    box...
    http://www.wightman-crane.com/madkiwi/TSB97-009.pdf
    r>My advice is to try to pin down exactly where the noise is coming
    from...use a mate to listen for it while you concentrate on
    driving....
    Good luck, and I hope it isn't expensive....

    John
    - NZ - Tue 15th October 2013 01:25pm (GMT)

  • Subject : Terrano 96 / 2.7 / Auto - Whine at top gears...
    Did you change the oils yourself ? Was there any metal files in the
    old oil . How clean was the oil .
    Are the driveshaft universals
    OK ?
    Dose it still whine if you flick it into 4wd while on the
    go?
    Our Terrano whines a we bit but has never got any worse
    .
    This could be a tricky one !!

    steve
    ashburton, nz - Wed 16th October 2013 08:00am (GMT)

    • Subject : Terrano 96 / 2.7 / Auto - Whine at top gears...
      Hi,
      Yes I changed oil myself for both diff, transfer and drained
      refilled auto trans. Did not find any metal files.
      Actually this
      is my 4x4 vehicle, I noticed this is bit worse after driving same
      model Terrano 98 my friend bought recently but has done over 60k than
      mine.
      Yes, last night driven 4WD, whine same as 2WD or suspect
      more at pick up (slow speed).
      I will check drive shaft universals
      tomorrow, push grease and update result. Think I saw in another forum
      John posted someone got better after lube shafts.

      Can you pls
      advise if any special thing / way to check and what's correct grease
      should use.

      Many Thanks.

      Anton
      Christchurch, NZ - Wed 16th October 2013 08:52am (GMT)

  • Subject : Terrano 96 / 2.7 / Auto - Whine at top gears...
    John or anton , I have not got our truck here to have a look (
    getting radiator looked at to see if needs tubes cleaned out) But dose
    the r50 have a hanger bearing on the rear drive shaft ? . Our Navara
    had a bad gearbox whine and found the bearing in that rubber bush was
    poked .

    steve
    - nz - Wed 16th October 2013 09:32am (GMT)

  • Subject : Terrano 96 / 2.7 / Auto - Whine at top gears...
    This may also explain the whine...but the poster did not elucidate on
    his "experience" at the Nissan
    dealership....
    http://www.thenissanpath.com/viewtopic.php?t=9550&s
    id=55895f0d806695b6bc65c3702889ea37

    Joined: 22 Jan
    2012
    Posts: 1418
    Location: Prospect, VA

    PostPosted:
    Sun Sep 08, 2013 10:29 pm
    It's probably the rear diff; I
    replaced a few of them when I worked for Nissan. They'll make a
    high-pitched whine with a load on them, but when you release the gas
    pedal and take the load off of the diff, the noise goes
    away.
    _________________
    2006 Pathfinder LE VQ40DE AWD,
    Michelin LTX M/S2 P265/65R17, new aftermarket radiator "just because"

    John
    - NZ - Wed 27th November 2013 12:49pm (GMT)

 
Subject : 94 nissan d21 v6 transmission pan
How do you remove the teansmission pan? I know that you have to remove
eighteen 10 millimeter bolts, but the pan wont come out between the
exhaust. Thanks

mat baker
Weleetka, oklahoma, usa - Mon 30th September 2013 08:41pm (GMT)
  • Subject : 94 nissan d21 v6 transmission pan
    What would be the chances of dropping the exhaust down off the
    manifolds; would that allow enough room to slide the pan sideways and
    out?

    John
    NZ - Tue 01st October 2013 05:27am (GMT)

    • Subject : 94 nissan d21 v6 transmission pan
      I will try that, I only droid the passenger side the first go
      around.thanks!

      mat baker
      Weleetka, ok, usa - Tue 01st October 2013 04:33pm (GMT)

 
Subject : Nissan Navara D21 Door handle
Where can I find instruction on replacing the exterior door handle on
a Nissan Navara D21 series.

Adrian
Adelaide, South Australia, Australia - Mon 09th September 2013 11:04am (GMT)
  • Subject : Nissan Navara D21 Door handle
    http://bebrs.pie-dabas.net/Webs/Terrano/R20/bt.pdf
    This is for a
    later model, but will give you a hint as to what Nissan usually does
    to fasten the door inners so you can access the inner door to remove
    and replace the exterior door handle. Note especially that "plug" in
    the armrest/door pull which covers the hidden screw. Everything else
    should be logical. If it won't move, don't force it..find the
    fastener you missed....

    John
    NZ - Tue 10th September 2013 05:14am (GMT)

 
Subject : autogearbox button?
hi ive just brought a 94 nissan terrano 3.0 v6 petrol with automaic
and there is a button to the left(passengers) side of thr hand brake
with 3 stages to it,ive figured out that the 1st stage(up) locks it in
the gear you are in but i dont know what the other two stages
do,advice anyone??

ben
newplymouth, newplymouth, newzealand - Sat 31st August 2013 05:30am (GMT)
  • Subject : autogearbox button?
    If its the switch I think it is it will be power,normal,hold or snow
    mode for the trans . Power lets the motor rev a bit more in each gear
    as its changing up for the likes of towing trailers with heavy loads
    ect .Hold or snow mode changes the gears up a lot sooner in the rev
    range so as not to spin the wheels in snow or slippery conditions .
    and normal is I guess just for normal every day driving.

    Steve
    ashburton, nz - Sun 01st September 2013 05:13am (GMT)

    • Subject : autogearbox button?
      Steve, it's good to see you back...Nissans still going well?
      John
      Christchurch - Sun 01st September 2013 10:28am (GMT)

      • Subject : autogearbox button?
        Hi john , Yes have been around and we still have our terrano .Dose
        not get a lot of use now .The odd 4wd trip and carts my rc planes
        around and that's about it .240 000 on the clock now with no major
        problems . Cant beat regular servicing .Do you think that is what the
        switch is for above . Mine is under the radio but not sure where the
        d21 switch is situated ?

        Steve
        ashburton, nz - Mon 02nd September 2013 07:32am (GMT)

        • Subject : autogearbox button?
          Seems right to me, especially if the OP has already discovered one
          function of that switch changes the behaviour of the gearbox...so must
          the other two positions..and one has to be "normal" and the other
          locks out 1st gear..starts in 2 for snow and ice...

          John
          NZ - Tue 03rd September 2013 10:48am (GMT)

 
Subject : NISSAN MISTRAL SIDE MIRROR
1997 NISSAN MISTRAL DRIVER SIDE MIRROR IS NOT OPENING AUTOMATICALLY,
BUT IF MANUALLY OPENED ITS CLOSES AUTOMATICALY BY THE SWITCH,
PASSENGER SIDE WORKS FINE, PLEASE ANYBODY KNOW THE ANSWER? FUSE?
SWITCH? ...

prinse
- nz - Wed 21st August 2013 07:46am (GMT)
  • Subject : NISSAN MISTRAL SIDE MIRROR
    when you say you open it manually, are you physically turning the
    mirror with your hands until it is in the extended position?
    Or
    are you using the switch to extend it from the parked position?
    If
    you are using the switch, then there is no problem with the switch or
    the mirror motor..just with the 'automatic" provision of 12 volts on
    initial turn of the key...

    John
    NZ - Thu 22nd August 2013 12:19pm (GMT)

    • Subject : NISSAN MISTRAL SIDE MIRROR
      HI, I am physically turning the mirror with my hands to extend on
      driver side . only its closes with the switch, when it closes i can
      hear the motor sound.. cheers

      prinse
      nz - Thu 22nd August 2013 08:09pm (GMT)

      • Subject : NISSAN MISTRAL SIDE MIRROR
        Time to check the switch has 12v coming into it on the "opening" side;
        check switch operation by switching wires one side to the other.

        John
        NZ - Fri 23rd August 2013 09:45am (GMT)

 
Subject : engine management light
"terrano 2.7 diesel engine management light comes on under load at
about 2500rpm and looses power, any idea why

Dee
- shropshire, UK - Sat 17th August 2013 03:51pm (GMT)
  • Subject : engine management light
    What year Terrano? Did anything else 'go wrong' before this problem
    occurred? Did you run out of fuel at any time/ Did you recently
    replace the fuel filter? have you ever checked and cleaned the gauze
    filter under the banjo bolt at the fuel line entrance to the fuel
    pump? Have you recently checked and/or replaced the air filter? Did
    you drown the vehicle crossing a river? Has the vehicle overheated
    recently? Is the exhaust system free from obstructions, or has any
    part of the exhaust been crushed by off-roading?
    The more you can
    tell us, the quicker we can try to diagnose the problems.

    Doug
    UK - Sun 18th August 2013 08:35am (GMT)

 
Subject : side lights
hi i have a 2002 teranno with no side lights back and front not
working all bulbs are ok also no dash light
all fuses are ok is
there a relay that i can check ?
any advice welcom

Kevin

kev
esat cowes, isle of wight, UK - Wed 14th August 2013 01:17pm (GMT)
  • Subject : side lights
    Kevin, the way to check fuses is with a multimeter. Ground the
    negative lead on the chassis somewhere (I usually use the door
    restraint) and use the red lead on each of the small points of the
    metal of the fuse that are able to be prodded by your probe. you don't
    take the fuse out...12v on one end and not the other = stuffed fuse.
    Just looking at it is not good enough these days with blade
    fuses.
    Or you can buy a circuit/continuity tester with a light
    and do the same thing.
    A cheap multi-meter also allows you to
    check the state of the battery and the charging system.

    Doug
    UK - Thu 15th August 2013 07:24am (GMT)

 
Subject : torsion bars
k I have a 96 mistral that's got a frontal lurch to port and thinking
it's time to look at replacing the left torsion bar or should I be
considering doing both and just how difficult/ awkward are these
things to change out ?

hey you
AK, New Zealand - Thu 08th August 2013 07:28am (GMT)
  • Subject : torsion bars
    read down a couple of postings and look up the web
    references..explains all.

    John
    NZ - Thu 08th August 2013 09:44am (GMT)

  • Subject : torsion bars
    no need to replace they are adjustable, long bolts rear of gearbox
    rick

    Rick
    Bexhill on Sea, East Sussex, UK - Sat 10th August 2013 09:16pm (GMT)

    • Subject : torsion bars
      Yes, you can take them out and turn them a spline or two tighter as
      well..but you risk them snapping violently under this extra pressure.
      Any spring wears out if compressed and released often enough..they are
      metal so they fatigue. If you can get second hand ones from a much
      younger vehicle, ensure that you put the springs on the correct side
      of the vehicle left/left, right/right. Otherwise almost instant
      failures will result.
      All explained 8 posts down with the relevant
      web references, with pics.

      John
      NZ - Sun 11th August 2013 09:48am (GMT)

 
Subject : Hot Hub/Disc
Hi all after a trip up to the ski field I notice when I got home that
I could smell a rubber burning smell and notice that the left rear
wheel Hub/Disc was very hot(not smoking)but more the disc, I`m
guesting that the brake caliper piston might be stuck or something
along the lines of that?? any help would be great!
Cheers

Scottie
- NZ - Wed 24th July 2013 09:17am (GMT)
  • Subject : Hot Hub/Disc
    Check that the sliding part of the calipers can actually slide over
    the pins...take the sliding caliper off and give the pins a good
    scrubbing removing crud.Use a smear of high temperature grease to
    lubricate the pins.
    The left side (front and back) has more road
    dirt, water etc spraying up off the road surface, therefore is more
    likely to crud up.
    This also accounts for the left side suspension
    and shockies wearing faster etc etc.
    You may as well check
    everything else while you are in there, and on both sides.

    John
    Christchurch - Thu 25th July 2013 04:36am (GMT)

    • Subject : Hot Hub/Disc
      Hi John, have cleaned and lube calipers on all four wheels was a bit
      of build up etc after a quick 5min run the problem still there!? was
      thinking wheel bearing/repacking? ???

      Scottie
      NZ - Thu 25th July 2013 10:59am (GMT)

      • Subject : Hot Hub/Disc
        The problem will be ascertaining the cause of the heat ....brakes
        being applied or not releasing...from the hub...bearings needing
        replacement or lubrication or adjustment.

        Examine carefully
        the flexible brake lines..any cracking in exterior, or leaking, or
        "crunchy' non flexible bits?
        One cause of residual pressure can
        be the breakdown of the inner walls of the flexible, forming 'valves"
        which stop fluid coming back out of the pistons.
        Another could be
        a buildup of crap in the system causing a "plug' effect blocking some
        smaller orifice with the same result.
        Is there excessive or
        noticeable difference with the wear on the left rear disc or pads
        compared to the right side?
        if you are friendly with your local
        WOF place and they have a very good brake testing roller system you
        could try them to see if there is a difference between brakes
        on/brakes off left/right?

        Perhaps go for a longer run at a
        steady state speed and coast to a halt without using the brakes, then
        test temperature?
        Good luck, keep us informed.

        John
        NZ - Fri 26th July 2013 03:58am (GMT)

        • Subject : Hot Hub/Disc
          Hey John, Was under truck again today re-checked an lube pins, shafts
          etc on all four calipers again. Flexi hoses seem all good no cracks
          ,leaks or brittle etc, all even wear on pads, piston is not stuck as I
          can press in back in with a clamp, there is a bit of friction (grab)
          as I spin the rear wheels free hand, the front are fine an spin real
          good free hand! Maybe look at a brake flush and bleed take rotors off
          and inspect hand-bake drums? Bearings would be mine next mission. I
          have notice grease like stuff coming out of the bearing cover on hub,
          whats involved with taking off hub, bearing adjusting?? tighten??
          etc.
          Cheers Scottie

          Scottie
          NZ - Fri 26th July 2013 05:45am (GMT)

          • Subject : Hot Hub/Disc
            bebrs.pie-dabas.net/Webs/Terrano/R20/fwd.pdf‎
            John
            NZ - Sun 28th July 2013 01:37am (GMT)

 
Subject : gearbox
Hi all..I have a 52plate 3.0.lwb Nissan terano and the gearbox is on
its way out..am haveing trouble finding a second hand one as there
doesn't spear to be many for the 3.0 Lyra about..but there does apear
to be plenty of 2 .7ltr lwb about..so my question is ..will a 52plate
2 7box.fit a 3.0 ltr car of the same year..thanks

andy
imminghan, lincs, UK - Wed 10th July 2013 11:57am (GMT)
  • Subject : gearbox
    Better to fix your own auto as it will then be ok for many thousands
    more miles,whereas the second hand unit is a pig in a poke, unless
    that goes in temporarily while your own gets overhauled.
    Look at
    the posts re autos below here and get it serviced first.......
    A
    good trans shop may have done the swap you are enquiring about for
    some other punter; do your research with Nissan dealers via their
    workshop foremen and try to get a yes or no from them (and their
    names).
    Sometimes a face to face gets better results.
    I have
    not seen anything on this site suggesting someone has already done
    this swap.

    John
    NZ - Thu 11th July 2013 03:45am (GMT)

 
Subject : gearbox
Hi all..I have a 52plate 3.0.lwb Nissan terano and the gearbox is on
its way out..am haveing trouble finding a second hand one as there
doesn't spear to be many for the 3.0 Lyra about..but there does apear
to be plenty of 2 .7ltr lwb about..so my question is ..will a 52plate
2 7box.fit a 3.0 ltr car of the same year..thanks

andy
imminghan, lincs, UK - Wed 10th July 2013 11:57am (GMT)
  • Subject : gearbox
    As above..SERVICE THE TRANS. Start by dropping the pan on the trans,
    reading the debris in the filter, renewing the fluid in the trans
    etc...before spending huge amounts of time and money on taking things
    apart and replacing them.

    John
    NZ - Thu 11th July 2013 03:47am (GMT)

 
Subject : Clutch Slave Cylinder
Hi all, Quick question about slave cylinder piston on my terrano,
notice that the piston itself can be pushed back in by hand and the
clutch peddle just drops to the floor but after a few quick pumps its
built pressure back up and engages the clutch fork, selects gears fine
etc is this normal or is it a sign that the slave cylinder itself is
out on its way?? seems to be no leaks around it but the fluid in the
master is pretty dirty colour and was going to flush and replace, do
you bleed the clutch the same way as you do the brakes?? Any ideas
would be great.
Cheers

Scottie
- NZ - Sun 07th July 2013 12:08pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Clutch Slave Cylinder
    Yes, you bleed it the same way. You've got air in there at the moment.
    Suck all the old fluid out of the master cylinder, replace with new
    fluid, then bleed the whole system. You'll be unpleasantly surprised
    how much crap will come out. If you still get air back in there after
    only a short time (couple of weeks/days/hours),check or replace the
    flexible hose to the slave cylinder if it appears cracked, chafed or
    soft (they can disintegrate on the inside).If you do a lot of 4WD then
    you will have to either re-sleeve the slave cylinder in stainless
    steel, or replace it with an new or reconditioned cylinder plus new
    seals and/or piston if that is also corroded. At worst the master
    cylinder will also need the same treatment.Prevention is replacing the
    fluid every 2 years at a minimum..and who does that??????

    John
    NZ - Mon 08th July 2013 06:36am (GMT)

    • Subject : Clutch Slave Cylinder
      Excellent thank you john will do the following
      Scottie
      NZ - Mon 08th July 2013 07:15am (GMT)

 
Subject : nissan terrano/pathfinder/regulus R3M
Hi - I have a 1996 import Nissan R3M Terrano. Also known as a Regulus
or Pathfinder (pr50) Chassis.

It's a 2.7diesel auto, needs a
new clutch plate. Can anyone point me in the direction of part numbers
for this model. Also anyone familiar with this can tell us if this is
straightforward to replace or a major operation. Thanks

Jon
Cumbria, Cumbria, UK - Mon 01st July 2013 02:59pm (GMT)
  • Subject : nissan terrano/pathfinder/regulus R3M
    If this is an auto, why does it need a clutch plate? If you mean a
    new band for one of the clutches in the auto trans, the model of the
    trans would be known to the trans shop who take it out and disassemble
    it, and at the same time can advise what else is worn and what should
    be replaced as a preventative measure. If you don't even know how to
    find out what model the trans is, please don't start trying to take
    the trans apart and/or replace bits..that is a way to become the owner
    of a long-term stationary Terrano that doesn't go anywhere
    anymore.
    For safety's sake do not try to slit the auto from the
    engine and the transfer case without the proper supports as they are
    heavy and will crush you if you do it wrong.
    many things can be
    fixed by Mr Fixit at home: this is not one of them.

    Doug
    UK - Tue 02nd July 2013 12:07am (GMT)

    • Subject : nissan terrano/pathfinder/regulus R3M
      Thanks Doug, I should have explained, this is in the UK being an
      unusual import finding parts has proven very difficult in the
      past.

      The clutch has been slipping for a while and now needs
      sorting, it is to be done by a garage, (it was them that suggested the
      fault is likely to be the clutch plate in the car, they are aware it's
      an auto), but typical of a garage, they don't have time or inclination
      to shop around and if they can find apart just get it. Whilst part may
      cost £100 from one place it may be £200 from another, 9 out of 10
      this will be the garages favoured supplier (if in deed they can source
      it). In terms of understanding the difficulty I'm trying to gauge how
      long the car is out of action, we live in a village, it's our only
      means of transport and it's also used for the business. Any down time
      hits us very hard.
      Don't get me wrong this is a brilliant garage
      who have previously gone out of their way to repair items rather than
      risk the cost of a non compatible part to us. But some things are
      beyond repair.

      I just want the car in an out as quickly as
      possible but I also need to consider if it's financially worthwhile
      undertaking the repair. So knowing roughly how long will also give us
      an idea of the likely price. Thanks

      jon
      Cumbria, Cumbria, UK - Tue 02nd July 2013 10:58am (GMT)

      • Subject : nissan terrano/pathfinder/regulus R3M
        Have you considered purchasing a complete second hand auto; that could
        be installed in a day. you could then have the original
        inspected/overhauled at your leisure, and either replace it back in
        the vehicle or sell it, whole or in parts depending on the damage.

        Doug
        UK - Wed 03rd July 2013 01:48am (GMT)

  • Subject : nissan terrano/pathfinder/regulus R3M
    https://docs.google.com/gview?url=http://www.240edge.com/manuals/89-90
    _240sx/auto_tra.pdf&chrome=true

    The identifier plate for the
    auto trans and time "by the book" for removal and installation of a
    trans for your perusal.

    John
    - NZ - Tue 09th July 2013 10:42am (GMT)

    • Subject : nissan terrano/pathfinder/regulus R3M
      Thanks John, very useful.
      Annoyingly I took it to the garage
      yesterday for them to look at and it behaved itself, they couldn't
      find fault. Now admittedly he drove more aggressively than me and
      gearbox was constantly changing, where as we notice it more under load
      up hill and cruising around 50mph in traffic. Sods law!

      Jon
      Cumbria, UK - Tue 09th July 2013 01:10pm (GMT)

      • Subject : nissan terrano/pathfinder/regulus R3M
        Have them service the trans, drop pan, remove and examine filter,
        replace filter, new fluid..can make a huge difference...

        John
        NZ - Tue 09th July 2013 02:03pm (GMT)

 
Subject : 1996 Nissan Pickup Clutch
1996 1/2 Nissan Pickup 4 wheele drive Because of the torgue bars would
it be easyer to pull the engine to replace the clutch. looks like to
remove the transmission you have to remove the torssion bars. these
seem to be frozen to the adjusters?

casey
Leesburg, Florida, USA - Mon 24th June 2013 02:04pm (GMT)
  • Subject : 1996 Nissan Pickup Clutch
    http://www.google.com/search?q=nissan%20pathfinder%20torsion%20bar%20r
    emoval

    There is so much info available, most written for
    Americans by Americans and detailing the process and aftermarket
    suppliers that I urge you to search properly on the internet as
    above....

    Doug
    UK - Wed 26th June 2013 03:37am (GMT)

  • Subject : 1996 Nissan Pickup Clutch
    http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/nissan-hardbody-truck-suspension-tors
    ion-bars-bushings.html

    John
    - NZ - Fri 28th June 2013 07:41am (GMT)

 
Subject : 1996 Nissan transmission
advice on removing 4 speed transmission to replace clutch. do the
torqsion bars remove from front or rear?

Casey
Lesburg, Fl, usa - Mon 24th June 2013 01:21pm (GMT)
  • Subject : 1996 Nissan transmission
    Are we talking about a Nissan Terrano or Pathfinder?
    Raise the
    front of the vehicle off the ground until there is no weight on the
    front suspension, place jack stands under frame for safety; remove
    both front wheels.
    The torsion bars are tensioned at the rear, so
    you have to release the torsion on them by undoing the bolt contacting
    the body which is in the arm at the rear end of the torsion
    bar.
    Count the number of turns needed to release the tension.

    You need to re-tension by the same number of turns on
    reassembly.
    Mark the bars and the splined socket so that you can
    put the bars back into the correct spline on reassembly.
    If you
    have a saggy suspension you could try ONE spline over to increase the
    tension (Left bar anti-clockwise, right bar clockwise).
    Otherwise
    bite the bullet and upgrade to new OEM or aftermarket torsion bars to
    get the front end ride height back to what it should be.
    Then
    remove the torsion bars from the front mountings which are splined.
    There will be large circlips on the bars to stop rearwards movements,
    so take the circlips off.
    Also mark the bars "left" and "right"
    and reinstall on the correct sides of the vehicle.
    Otherwise the
    bars will fail within minutes.
    When you reassemble the
    suspension you will have to re-tension the bars using the bolt through
    the arm, reattach the wheels and go for a drive; check the ride height
    and suitably adjust the bolts with the weight off the front suspension
    (on the jack and stands again).
    Retest until it all meets
    specs.
    Finally, get a 4 wheel alignment done at your favorite
    shop...

    Torsion bars are very tightly wound springs..treat
    them gently and with great respect.

    While you are under the
    vehicle (if it is a Pathfinder), have you already cured the "Death
    Wobble" with new poly bushes in the 4 radius links in the rear
    suspension??
    That is also important.

    Happy trails....

    Doug
    UK - Mon 24th June 2013 01:56pm (GMT)

 
Subject : NISSAN MISTRAL/TERRANO BODY VIBRATION
Hi, I have a nissan mistral/terrano 1997 facelift ,intercooler turbo.
On 1500 rev truck is vibrating /shivering badly,even if its not in the
drive, once passed 1500 rev truck drives smooth.specially while you
drive on window closed it makes your ear feels closed, noticed when it
drives mainly 50km speed . please let me know if someone got a answer
for this....cheers

prinse
WELLINGTON, nz, nz - Wed 12th June 2013 11:00pm (GMT)
  • Subject : NISSAN MISTRAL/TERRANO BODY VIBRATION
    This vibration at 1500 revs, is that from a cold start? When the
    engine heats up, does the vibration lessen or go away? Any thick smoke
    on cold start? How long does the glow plug light on the dash take to
    go out after you first switch on the key on a cold start? Sorry but I
    don't understand what you mean re the window being closed..there is an
    effect like being inside a drum if one window is wound down even
    partially under certain circumstances, especially if you do not have
    deflectors or monsoon shields. It is caused by the air pressure
    differential between outside and inside (the air outside pressurises
    the cabin which expands slightly, then relaxes, then repressurises
    etc......can feel funny on the ears.

    John
    NZ - Thu 13th June 2013 08:12am (GMT)

    • Subject : NISSAN MISTRAL/TERRANO BODY VIBRATION
      Hi, No thick smoke on cold start, glow plug go out as usual, every
      thing works fine, vibration remains after engine heatup,i know what
      you mean by one window down, its just the body vibration, just
      wondering about the engine mounts???

      prinse
      nz - Thu 13th June 2013 09:55am (GMT)

      • Subject : NISSAN MISTRAL/TERRANO BODY VIBRATION
        Engine mounts/gearbox mounts could be a possibility, especially if you
        have no smoke on startup and glowplug lights are behaving normally.
        One person had bad vibrations only when turning left..that was a
        broken mount on the engine. How long have you had this problem? Did it
        start suddenly, or just gradually over a period of weeks? When you rev
        the engine while the car is stopped and in neutral, does the engine
        still vibrate up to 1500 revs? Then it's engine related. If the
        vibration only happens when actually driving along the road, it could
        be worn U joints in the drive line. The problem can be found by
        logically listing what does happen when you change the parameters of
        your driving.

        John
        NZ - Fri 14th June 2013 01:59am (GMT)

        • Subject : NISSAN MISTRAL/TERRANO BODY VIBRATION
          Thanks john, well i bought this truck last year noticed this vibration
          at the time of purchace, didint payed much attention coz of diesel
          engine , every time when the rev pass through 1000-1500rev vibrates
          ,even its not driving, no vibration on idile .

          prinse
          nz - Fri 14th June 2013 05:29am (GMT)

          • Subject : NISSAN MISTRAL/TERRANO BODY VIBRATION
            how many Ks on the clock?
            another possibility is in these two
            references
            below
            http://forum.difflock.com/viewtopic.php?t=53463&sid=f3330e6c
            ee54cac47a6fbff74d0cffb3

            http://community.preloved.co.uk/foru
            ms/discussion/48777/nissan-mistral-terrano-maverick-r20-crank-pulley.h
            tml

            John
            nz - Fri 14th June 2013 02:12pm (GMT)

            • Subject : NISSAN MISTRAL/TERRANO BODY VIBRATION
              178,000km , still on investigation...
              prinse
              nz - Mon 17th June 2013 04:08am (GMT)

              • Subject : NISSAN MISTRAL/TERRANO BODY VIBRATION
                Have a good look at the position of the exhaust pipe where it passes
                close to the body after exit from the engine. if there are "rub" marks
                on the pipe and corresponding marks on the body, there could be a
                broken or worn engine mount, especially the one near the oil filter
                where oil leaking/splashing on it destroys the rubber. As the
                accelerator goes down, the engine twists until the exhaust hits the
                body. At higher or lower engine/road speeds, it doesn't.

                John
                NZ - Thu 11th July 2013 03:53am (GMT)

 
Subject : Nissan Mistral
I have 1996 "M" Mistral/ TerranoII.
I have bought a workshop
manual that should cover the truck but the fule system seems to be
tottaly differant and it does not seem to have an EMU or a MAF
detector on the carb. I need to adjust the mixture as i am adding a
Hydrogen system to it. Can anyone throw any light on the fule control
method please

Phil Crockford
Stamford, Lincs, UK - Tue 04th June 2013 07:18pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Nissan Mistral
    What is the engine in this vehicle..is it petrol or diesel????
    Doug
    UK - Wed 05th June 2013 05:07am (GMT)

    • Subject : Nissan Mistral
      Diesel. 2.660cc. V20
      Phil Crockford
      Stamford, Lincs, UK - Wed 05th June 2013 06:55am (GMT)

      • Subject : Nissan Mistral
        When i originaly started this thread i wsed the word "carb" but it has
        no carb as it is fule ijection and has a turbo ther seem to be a
        collection og mumatic pipes connected to all sorts of sensors and
        valves on the engin. I am not familier with desel injection engina and
        the beek does not help as it deels with MAF and EMU sysetems. i hope
        this will help.

        Phil Crockford
        Stamford, Lincs, UK - Wed 05th June 2013 08:10am (GMT)

        • Subject : Nissan Mistral
          So you are going to put some sort of hydrogen gas system on your
          diesel engine??? or is it really a system which is intended for a
          petrol engine which has all those sensors built in?? I presume the
          hydrogen system uses a piggy back computer??? I can't see how you can
          make this work on a diesel..that being said, there are systems using
          LP as additional fueling systems for diesels to increase horsepower
          and torque..but too much grenades the engine. Good luck, but I would
          be doing a lot more research before trying anything like what you
          propose on this diesel engine.....

          Doug
          UK - Thu 06th June 2013 10:12am (GMT)

          • Subject : Nissan Mistral
            No. It’s not just intended for just a petrol car. It can be fitted
            to any type of car. It is intended to reduce the fuel consumption of
            the car. I have fitted the system to the car and am attempting to
            discover the operation of the injection system, as the manual I have
            for the car does not seem to have the same type of control system as
            my car. I have discovered that the book indicates a Mass Air flow
            detection system and oxygen sensor system to detect the fuel mixture
            but, my car has no oxygen sensors or a Mass Air flow detection system.
            It seems to have a MAP or Mass Air Pressure detector on the inlet
            manifold after the turbo. Basically the book is useless. However
            having discovered this I can use it to lean out the mixture and am
            building a control box to control the mixture. The MAP sensor can be
            one of two types, a DC voltage that increases with engine speed and
            load or a Frequency based sensor where the oscillating frequency
            increases with speed and load. Basically the addition of hydrogen to
            the airflow will cause a more complete combustion of the fuel and
            hence the mpg. I have gained efficiency even with ought the adjustment
            to the mixture but will be able to increase the MPG gain when the
            mixture is corrected. I would be interested to know is any one else
            has the same sensor system on their vehicle?
            I Have a 10% fuel
            saving currently and hope to increase it to around 30% when done.

            Phil Crockford
            Stamford, Lincs, UK - Mon 10th June 2013 07:05am (GMT)

            • Subject : Nissan Mistral
              Are you saying you are aiming for a 30% reduction in diesel
              consumption? Fantastic! you will be using 30%less diesel..and 100%
              more hydrogen...and unless you have access to "free" hydrogen, how
              will that be more economical? The LPG systems I mentioned already
              exist with a claimed up to 40% increase in power and torque..and at
              41% the engine turns into a hand grenade. You would think that if
              diesel vehicle manufacturers could reliably improve fuel consumption
              and do so at less cost, they would already have done it and boasted
              about it.....but, it will be interesting to see how you go, there
              always has to be the one genius to make a breakthrough...good luck.

              Doug
              UK - Tue 11th June 2013 09:54am (GMT)

              • Subject : Nissan Mistral
                The Hydrogen is generated on board using Hydrolysis. It is 66%
                hydrogen and 33% oxygen and is injected in to the air intake. It uses
                the 12 Volts from the battery to produce 1 litre pm of gas. The Idea
                is not to increase the power of the engine but to allow the weaker
                diesel/air to be supplemented by the hydrogen so no danger of bombing
                the engine. By adjusting the MAF sensor output to the EMU end hence
                the mixture to account for the hydrogen the amount of diesel used for
                the same power can be much less. No hydrogen is stored on board as it
                is generated as it is needed by the engine.

                Philip Crockford
                Stamford, Links, UK - Wed 12th June 2013 07:05am (GMT)

                • Subject : Nissan Mistral
                  Oh dear, the "something for nothing" concept of fuel economy. Where
                  does the battery get it's 12 volts? From the alternator. Where does
                  the alternator get it's drive? From the engine via the pulley and V
                  Belt. Where does the engine get it's fuel..from diesel and
                  hydrogen.
                  It costs fuel (energy), which costs money, to produce
                  alternative fuel (hydrogen) to fuel the engine.
                  you do know about
                  superchargers use them and the engine has to supply horsepower to
                  drive the supercharger to compress the air to push into the engine..up
                  to 200hp on a 100hp dragster etc etc. Your hydrogen generator is also
                  a parasite.....

                  Doug
                  UK - Thu 13th June 2013 08:01am (GMT)

                  • Subject : Nissan Mistral
                    I have done the numbers on the system and the amount of power produced
                    by the engine as a result of burning the HHO is 40% greater than the
                    amount of power used by the HHO generator to produce the amount of HHO
                    gas stated. The generator consumes 200Watts from the battery. I
                    realise you are sceptical and I was before I examined the figures.
                    There are numerous papers on the subject if you care to consult them.
                    It remains a fact that at this time, I have a fuel saving with ought
                    MAP adjustment of 15% over a period of motoring over the same distance
                    and terrain. Your comments regarding the car manufactures, not using
                    the technology are not necessarily true, at least not in this country.
                    If we all did it the government would loose a lot of revenue on fuel
                    duty and after the way the big companies have been found wanting
                    lately and that most of them are milking us for all they can get I
                    don’t think its in there interest to produce a car that runs on an
                    alternative fuel. However this is only my opinion and if I can give a
                    little less to the taxman I will try my hardest to do it. Like most
                    people my cash balance is being squeezed by the current situation and
                    this is a cost that will only go up and up. If you have any imperial
                    evidence or practical expertise to support your comments I would be
                    glad to hear them and indeed they may be of some help. Thanks

                    Philip
                    Stamford, Lincs, UK - Fri 14th June 2013 10:06am (GMT)

                • Subject : Nissan Mistral
                  Oops, that should read 1000hp. Not 100...
                  Doug
                  - UK - Thu 13th June 2013 08:03am (GMT)

  • Subject : Nissan Mistral
    could you please tell me where the rear tail gate wiper switch
    is

    Regards William Craig

    W craig
    - newzealand - Sun 16th June 2013 04:28am (GMT)

    • Subject : Nissan Mistral
      Try the lefthand stalk on the steering wheel.turn the end knob to
      operate. Cheers

      tom hull
      auckland, New Zealand - Fri 21st June 2013 05:22am (GMT)

 
Subject : Nissan Terrano 1991
Hi I have a 1991 Nissan Terrano turbo deisel auto, this car has run
like a gem however the other day on the highway it starts dropping in
and out of overdrive constantly then going up a hill would not kick
into overdrive and sat on 80klms struggling up the hill, it is not
doing this around town on small drives only after drivin g for about
half hour, also the next morning when I started the car the AT light
was flashing intermitently only on starting. I also have an electric
fuel pump fitted, hoping yopu can give me some answers :)

Cheryl
Kilcoy, Qld, Australia - Tue 28th May 2013 10:23pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Nissan Terrano 1991
    The flashing a/t light is signalling the fault code for the auto
    trans.
    It's electronic brain reveals that to you by a series of
    flashes such as 1 2 3 4; 1 2; 1 2 3 4; 1 2 (repeating).
    If you
    can find out this code and post it here we may be able to see what the
    probable fault may be.
    Every time you switch on the ignition to
    start the engine this code will flash until you fix the
    problem.

    A damn good start would be to have the auto trans
    serviced; the pan on the bottom is dropped, fluid drained and the
    filter removed, torn apart to check what type of debris has been
    caught. Depending on how much debris in the filter and in the bottom
    of the pan an experienced auto trans engineer can tell you what has
    gone wrong, and ballpark what it's going to cost to fix it.
    It
    may be as simple as a new filter, pan gasket and a refill with dexron3
    fluid.
    It may cost a lot more.....a rebuild of the
    trans.....
    While he is under the vehicle he will physically check
    the electric connections to the trans, and possibly can spray clean
    them with contact cleaner.
    Why did you have an electric fuel pump
    fitted? There is an engine powered fuel pump already..did this fail?

    The fitting of that should not have precipitated the auto trans
    problems, unless the wiring has been botched.
    This engine/trans
    combination is almost bulletproof with REGULAR oil/fluid/filter
    changes.
    Good luck. Post the code!!!!

    John
    NZ - Thu 30th May 2013 12:25pm (GMT)

  • Subject : Nissan Terrano 1991
    http://bebrs.pie-dabas.net/Webs/Terrano/R20/

    This is a later
    model but most of the information is applicable.
    Go to the AT
    section and see how it all works

    John
    - NZ - Thu 30th May 2013 12:48pm (GMT)

  • Subject : Nissan Terrano 1991
    https://docs.google.com/gview?url=http://www.240edge.com/manuals/89-90
    _240sx/auto_tra.pdf&chrome=true

    Pathfinder is Terrano in US,
    transmission is common Nissan; procedures much the same

    John
    - NZ - Thu 30th May 2013 12:55pm (GMT)

 
Subject : Heater core
I have a 2011 Nevada and it looks like the heater core is gone smell
of anti freeze and fogging of windscreen How common is this and how
long does it take to change the core.

Ron
Fort William, Inverness-shire, UK - Fri 10th May 2013 10:51pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Heater core
    Are you the proud owner of a nissan Navarra? Your vehicle is at most 2
    years old..unless you used acid as coolant I can't imagine how you
    destroyed a heater core in 2 years. It sounds like it could still be
    under manufacturer's warranty, so the first thing i would do is go
    back to the selling dealer and inform him of the problem..and ask him
    to fix it at no cost.
    If that for some reason is impossible, try
    tracking down the connections where rubber hoses meet metal heater
    tubes, and check for tightness of clasmps/joints.

    Doug
    UK - Sat 11th May 2013 12:36am (GMT)

 
Subject :
Good evening, I have a Nissan terrano 2 1996.
I would like to
enter the forum to learn more about the car.
At this moment he is
in the shop, I need some parts, I would help one who knows the Nissan
Terrano 2

Waldir Fortes
Mindelo, Cape Verde, Cape Verde - Wed 08th May 2013 01:34am (GMT)
  • Subject :
    If your vehicle is in a shop being fixed, the mechanic would probably
    know the best way to import parts. There is little use in trying to
    go past him to get a slightly cheaper deal..if you get the wrong parts
    you will be stuck with them.

    John
    New Zealand - Wed 08th May 2013 06:27am (GMT)

    • Subject :
      I all depends on what parts you require.
      I found a company called
      Milner off road in Matlock UK,nice people and very helpful,they have a
      website,check it out.
      www.milneroffroad.com

      Adam
      Sheffield, South Yorkshire, UK - Thu 23rd May 2013 07:26pm (GMT)

 
Subject : sunroof rattling
hi im new here so please be gentle, i bought a 97 maverick/terrano 2
weeks ago its a 2.7 diesel lwb 7 seater, i love it but the sunshade on
the sunroof has the most annoying rattle it is stuck and wont budge
the sunroof tilts but wont slide open i would leave it alone but hte
rattle is so annoying

justin
bray, wicklow, ireland - Sun 05th May 2013 04:24pm (GMT)
  • Subject : sunroof rattling
    Do you have any recourse to the previous owner to get him to at least
    open the sunshade? The rattling can be fixed with a thin sheet or
    strips of rubber between it and then sunroof. But it sounds like the
    PO glued things shut to stop the rattle instead of fixing it properly.
    See if you can slip a blunt old knife or similar round the edge of the
    sunshade to loosen it up until it can slide.

    Doug
    UK - Mon 06th May 2013 12:17am (GMT)

  • Subject : sunroof rattling
    It all depends on your priorities, and how long you will own the
    vehicle. Cheap and nasty,but if you are going to drive it into the
    ground anyway, well....If you want a quick, messy, permanent fix for
    the rattle, and don't care about the sunroof, you could drill a big
    enough hole through the sunshade to put in the nozzle of an aerosol
    can of expanding foam..and fill the whole cavity..guaranteed there
    will be no rattles!

    Doug
    - UK - Wed 08th May 2013 06:34am (GMT)

 
Subject : power loss
I have a 2004 2.2 x trail, it had, about 6 months ago, a new turbo,
scv, and another valve, something to do with exhaust??? And a new
computer thing by passengers feet??? Its started smoking on reving,
sometimes thick black smoke sometimes white smoke and does 0-60 in
about 2 hours!!! Its fast once I can actually get speed up though,
please help!!!

marion searle
cambridge, cambs, UK - Sat 04th May 2013 09:44am (GMT)
  • Subject : power loss
    http://www.x-trail-uk.co.uk/

    This is a dedicated X trail
    forum and may be able to help you more directly..

    What
    warranty was there on all the work you had done to it 6 months ago?

    Doug
    UK - Sun 05th May 2013 08:04am (GMT)

    • Subject : power loss
      Hi Doug, I had no warranty on the work, a long story but I'd only had
      it 3 days when it went wrong and the man is now in jail. Yes that's
      the valve that was replaced and I was told the suction control valve
      had been reset it something when it was new.

      marion searle
      cambridge, cambs, UK - Sun 05th May 2013 09:02am (GMT)

      • Subject : power loss
        It would not hurt to do the relearning process again..follow the
        instructions on the x trail website..in fact read all the relevant
        posts on the website there may be someone else who had the same
        problems..and fixed them.

        Doug
        UK - Mon 06th May 2013 12:21am (GMT)

  • Subject : power loss
    http://www.x-trail-uk.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=1404

    EGR
    (Exhaust gas recirculation) valve????

    Doug
    - UK - Sun 05th May 2013 08:13am (GMT)

  • Subject : power loss
    http://www.x-trail-uk.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=2479

    note
    that the SCV replacement needs a "relearning" process, simple to
    do,follow the instructions.

    Doug
    - UK - Sun 05th May 2013 08:39am (GMT)

 
Subject : over heating when towing

martin hukme
manurewa, new zealand - Mon 29th April 2013 05:35am (GMT)
  • Subject : over heating when towing
    The first thing to check is the fan clutch..does the fan turn and
    "roar" i.e. move air when it is first started in the morning? It
    should do this for the first 1 km or so, then the sound will die away
    and it will idle until the temperature of the air flowing over it,
    heated by the radiator, causes the fan to re-engage and "roar' once
    more. if it does not do this when the temperature guage goes over
    half way (steep hills,towing, hot day) then you have to replace the
    fan and clutch as one unit. Easy, remove radiator, take out old fan,
    install new.
    Does it take forever to warm up, yet gets very hot
    when the towing etc..then you have a partially open
    thermostat..replace with Nissanone..not the replacement generic from
    the nearest parts shop..that won't have the length to do a good job
    when starting from cold.
    Does your guage immediately go to high
    temperature from start..then you have a stuck shut
    thermostat..replace.
    Are you loosing a lot of coolant out of the
    neck of the radiator from cold when you take the rad cap off,
    accompanied by thrashing bubbles..then you have a combustion leak into
    the coolant usually the head gasket needs replacing, head planed, plus
    new thermostat, hoses and probably a rodding-out of the radiator etc
    etc.
    But I am only using my crystal ball, which has a crack in
    it.
    Any symptoms I haven't covered that are a problem with your
    vehicle?

    John
    Christchurch - Mon 29th April 2013 11:55am (GMT)

  • Subject : over heating when towing
    Replacing fan clutch actually entails removing and replacing water
    pump..you can swap over the fan from the old pump..unless you can see
    cracks at the join of the blades and the hub..in which case a new fan
    should be bought as well..unless you want fan blades flying including
    into the radiator! Don't ask me how I know this....

    John
    - NZ - Mon 29th April 2013 01:22pm (GMT)

 
Subject : Nissan Terrano 2 Loss of Power
I keep losing power when I put my foot down and the engine management
light comes on (it's even worse if im towing), the vehicle has been on
diagnostics but no fault recorded, can any one offer some advice

Brian Haydon
Brierley Hill, West Midlands, UK - Sat 27th April 2013 02:43pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Nissan Terrano 2 Loss of Power
    FFS, look at the entry directly below here....AFM air flow meter....
    Doug
    UK - Sun 28th April 2013 08:36am (GMT)

 
Subject : no power
my 2,7 tdi reg has lost all power 40mph tops can anybody help turbo
spinning fine revs up fine to

steven
aspatria, cumbria, UK - Sat 20th April 2013 09:07pm (GMT)
  • Subject : no power
    When was the last time you replaced the fuel filter and the air
    filter? If it has been over a year or 12,000 miles, do them. Open up
    the old fuel filter with a hacksaw just under the top rim, check to
    see if it is blocked by algae/crud etc. If so, trace fuel line from
    filter to fuel pump and check fine gauze filter under banjo bolt where
    fuel line enters fuel injection pump.
    When you first turn on the
    ignition key, does any orange light flash on the dash? It will be
    something like flick, flick, pause, flick flick etc.? That may be a
    trouble code thrown by the ECU.
    There may also be a code thrown to
    show 'limp home' mode where the trans basically stays in 3rd gear..but
    it doesn't sound like that problem. Check the air supply tubes running
    from the filter to the turbo, then to the inter cooler, then to the
    intake manifold, for tears, especially underneath where tears are hard
    to find. If you are going to do this with the engine running, watch
    out for the V belts etc.

    Doug
    UK - Mon 22nd April 2013 05:40am (GMT)

    • Subject : no power
      thanks doug but check all that and run car with air flow meter plug
      in and out no better stumped

      steven
      aspatria, cumbria, UK - Tue 23rd April 2013 07:41pm (GMT)

      • Subject : no power
        That's the clue...whether the plug for the airflow meter is connected
        or not...there is no difference. Therefore, logically, the airflow
        meter is doing precisely NOTHING. See below:

        Subject : Re
        : Nissan Terrano Power Loss
        i had same problem and put mine in
        number of garages even put it on
        computer and everything come
        back clear nothing wrong then one guy
        said common problem on
        these cars every few years replace the mass air
        flow meter i
        got one of these from ebay cost around fifty pound
        including
        delivery and after it was fitted the car has been like new

        pulls caravan up hills no problem hope this helps
        KAZZC

        liverpool, merseyside, UK - Wed 27th August 2008 08:51am (GMT)


        Unless we learn from history we are doomed to make the same
        mistakes over and over........

        Doug
        UK - Wed 24th April 2013 08:06am (GMT)

 
Subject :
hi got a ABS light on dashboard dispite changing both front wheel
bearings had a fault finder plugin today it showed RR RH sensor-1
with shoes on the rear with no sensors ,any ideas thanks

john
ebbw-vale, gwent, UK - Mon 08th April 2013 06:16pm (GMT)
  • Subject :
    Has your vehicle got ABS? If yes, then it must have sensors on all
    four wheels. These sensors can be affected by small particles of crap
    interfering with the signals, especially magnetic/metallic crap
    between the sensor and the "teeth" on the wheel.
    clean your right
    rear sensor, try again

    Doug
    UK - Tue 09th April 2013 05:52am (GMT)

    • Subject :
      HI Doug its a 06 outlaw model told because it has drums and shoes its
      not got sensors it has got ABS

      john
      UK - Tue 09th April 2013 11:14am (GMT)

      • Subject :
        Talk to the service manager at the local dealer and find out what is
        going on, because ABS works on all wheels, so it must have sensors on
        all wheels, otherwise it cannot have ABS.........you would spin like a
        top if only the front wheels had maximum controlled braking..and the
        back could lock up ....

        Doug
        UK - Wed 10th April 2013 03:23am (GMT)

 
Subject : 2002 Nissan Terrano 2
Hi Guys, I'd like to do some maintenance on my Terrano. It has 225 000
km on the clock and I so I want to drain and replace all the fluids in
all the boxes and brake system.

I need to know all the fluid
capacities for the boxes and diffs and what are the recommended
synthetic oils.

Is there anything else I need to consider or
replace at this mileage.

Many thanks ans
regards.

Sean

Sean Jordaan
East London, Eastern Province, South Africa - Tue 02nd April 2013 11:07am (GMT)
  • Subject : 2002 Nissan Terrano 2
    Rear diff LSD oil 2.8 litres,85/90 or equivalent; auto trans flush and
    refill 11 litres Dex3 or equivalent plus new filter and pan gasket;
    transfer case 2 litres dex3 or equivalent, power steering flush and
    refill,1 litre Dex3 or equivalent, front diff 2 litres 85/90 or
    equivalent. You can use the same LSD oil in the front diff as you used
    in the rear.Brake flush and refill 1 litre, new pads? especially rear
    if not replaced recently.Coolant 5 litres antifreeze/anti boil plus
    water; system cleaner before refill?new thermostat? new hoses? new fan
    belts? Check and repack front wheel bearings. check bushes on anti
    sway bar, and on the 4 rear axle locating links, especially if you
    have a wobble at over 50mph (the death wobble)

    Doug
    UK - Wed 03rd April 2013 01:34am (GMT)

    • Subject : 2002 Nissan Terrano 2
      Many thanks Doug, sounds like you know the Terrano well. Your advice
      is much appreciated, guess I'll be spending the day following
      it.

      Regards

      Sean

      Sean Jordaan
      East London, Eastern Province, South Africa - Wed 03rd April 2013 07:53am (GMT)

  • Subject : 2002 Nissan Terrano 2
    I agree with above, I can't comment re synthetic fluids as I use the
    standard dino oils and change them regularly. you will have to do the
    experimentation yourself. Use the WWW but don't believe everything you
    read. Consult with a mechanic you respect before risking your
    vehicle's well-being.

    John
    - NZ - Wed 03rd April 2013 01:38am (GMT)

    • Subject : 2002 Nissan Terrano 2
      Thanks John, your confirmation of Dougs' advice is appreciated.


      Regards

      Sean

      Sean Jordaan
      East London, Eastern Province, South Africa - Wed 03rd April 2013 07:55am (GMT)

 
Subject : Buying a Nissan
Hi
I've been offered to buy a 1999 Nissan 4x4 Pathfinder R3mR
automatic.
What should I look for before I commit
myself.
Thanks

Eric Boateng
Accra, Greater Accra, Ghana - Wed 20th March 2013 10:12am (GMT)
  • Subject : Buying a Nissan
    What motor dose it have . 2.7 or 3.2 or the 3.0 neo diesel or is it a
    v6 petrol ?

    steve
    nz - Wed 20th March 2013 10:45am (GMT)

    • Subject : Buying a Nissan
      I believe its a 3.2 diesel engine for the pathfinder
      Eric Boateng
      Accra, Gt Accra, Ghana - Wed 20th March 2013 10:51am (GMT)

      • Subject : Buying a Nissan
        Eric, look through this site and you will find related posts for the
        vehicle and the engine. Read the US pathfinder sites as well, then you
        will get an idea of the things you should be looking for.if this is
        your first 4wd, get a knowledgeable friend or your favourite mechanic
        to go along and test it, or get it tested by an independent garage.

        doug
        UK - Fri 22nd March 2013 04:55am (GMT)

 
Subject : Right Oil
John this question is for you,Trying to track down manual gear oil
80w 90w GL4 as you said in last post but have had no luck,only found
valoline 80w 90w GL5 and nulon 75w 85w GL4 from super cheap and
repco,is GL4 oil only to be used? an not GL5? Cheers

Scottie
- NZ - Fri 08th March 2013 08:38am (GMT)
  • Subject : Right Oil
    I should have said "GL4 or better" so GL5, the latest and greatest
    will be absolutely awesome in the gearbox.
    The only place not to
    use improved fluid is in the automatic transmission (which you do not
    have) where Dex 3 should not be substituted by Dex 4, 5 or 6....it's
    apparently too good...

    John
    NZ - Sat 09th March 2013 01:53am (GMT)

 
Subject : parts
Please can someone tell me where I can get a gearbox pan gasket &
gearbox filter for my 4x4 largo import, 1996 model 2400cc

peter dear
blandfodr forum, dorset, UK - Fri 08th March 2013 07:09am (GMT)
  • Subject : parts

    bbb
    UK - Sat 09th March 2013 02:48am (GMT)

    • Subject : parts
      Identify the transmission model, then get parts from a factor or a
      trans shop.

      Doug
      UK - Sat 09th March 2013 10:16am (GMT)

 
Subject : parts
what advice can anyone give me on buying off ebay as I just boughta
front wheel bearing from Nissan dealer for £249.00 only to see one
for £60.00 on ebay

john
Ebbw-Vale, Gwent, UK - Tue 05th March 2013 08:10pm (GMT)
  • Subject : parts
    Your front wheel bearing will have a series of letters and numbers
    stamped into it, which is a code that can be interpreted worldwide,
    and a replacement can then be bought from any bearing supplier,
    probably even cheaper than on E bay, and almost certainly cheaper than
    the Nissan dealer...

    Doug
    UK - Wed 06th March 2013 03:11am (GMT)

    • Subject : parts
      thanks doug I,ll start shopping round ,sounds I save a lot of cash,is
      it a difficult job replacing the hub bearing on my outlaw john


      UK - Wed 06th March 2013 11:05am (GMT)

      • Subject : parts
        No, but if you have never done one before, ask someone with at least a
        reasonable knowledge to help you, and read up in library books how to
        go about it. The two essential must do's are to grease the new
        bearings properly before installation, and to tighten them to the
        proper tolerances...

        doug
        UK - Wed 06th March 2013 09:41pm (GMT)

 
Subject : What type of oil
What oil is recommended for manual gearbox and transfer and capacity
for each on 92 terrano please

scottie
- nz - Sun 03rd March 2013 07:21am (GMT)
  • Subject : What type of oil
    Manual transmission, API GL4 (SAE80w/90, 4 litres
    capacity.

    Transfer case, Dexron3 ATF or better, might as
    well buy a 4 litre pack and flush out the power steering at the same
    time.
    Use warehouse $10 sprayers with the tip removed for easy no
    fuss refilling through those little filler bungs!
    PS while you are
    down and dirty, when was the last time you bled the brake system?

    John
    NZ - Sun 03rd March 2013 08:31am (GMT)

    • Subject : What type of oil
      Excellent will do all the following,thanks John
      Scottie
      NZ - Sun 03rd March 2013 04:01pm (GMT)

 
Subject : smokes when starting
i have a 1999 terrano 2.7- when you start for the first time each day
smokes really badly for a few minutes then drives perfectly for the
rest of the day.Next day same thing and so on

simon
norwich, norfolk, UK - Sun 03rd February 2013 06:42pm (GMT)
  • Subject : smokes when starting
    OK, 1 what colour smoke, 2 for how long, 3 did this start overnight
    from one day to the next or 4 did the smoke gradually become worse?
    My chief suspect would be at least one stuffed glow plug. Has the
    length of time the glow plug light stays on at cold start up changed
    to a longer or shorter eriod of time?
    Once the engine gets up to
    temperature the cylinder will ignite properly so no smoke...any water
    consumption by the radiator? White smoke may mean water/antifreeze in
    the cylinder...

    John
    NZ - Mon 04th February 2013 04:06am (GMT)

 
Subject : Nissan Terrano 1998
HELP i cannot find the post i put on last week and i have 2 replies.
sharon turner
paisley, renfrewshire, UK - Sun 03rd February 2013 11:58am (GMT)
  • Subject : Nissan Terrano 1998
    You didn't ask it in this particular part of this forum.....were both
    the answers "42"??
    If so, what was the question?

    Doug
    UK - Mon 04th February 2013 04:08am (GMT)

 
Subject : Very Slow De-misting
Hi,I have a 2005 2.2DCI X-Trail.This winter has showed the demisting
properties of this vehicle to be circa 1955. Are there are any
improvements I can make to the system? Does anybody have any
suggestions for improvements?

Pete
Downham Market, Norfolk, UK - Sun 27th January 2013 08:52pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Very Slow De-misting
    When was the last time you changed the filter in the air supply? Do
    you use the aircon at the same time you use the heater for demisting
    the windows? By so doing you cool the incoming air, the moisture in
    which condenses on the cooling core, which leaves cool dry air to go
    through the heating core, which then delivers hot, dry air to your
    demisters. So, the two problems are : volume of air (replace your
    filter) and the moisture content (use your aircon).

    Doug
    UK - Sun 27th January 2013 09:48pm (GMT)

 
Subject : what colour antifreeze
terrano 2.7tdi 2002 hi all can anyone tell me what colour antifreeze
to use as the woman in halfords said ' i fink you want the red one '
and would rather be safe than sorry

pat
ipswich, suffolk, UK - Sun 20th January 2013 11:33am (GMT)
  • Subject : what colour antifreeze
    It really doesn't matter, put in the longest-lasting, best-priced one
    that is concentrate, not premixed. The most important thing is to
    thoroughly flush out all the old mixture plus the crap and rust before
    putting new into the system. Once you decide which brand you will
    use, stick with it and use it for top ups as well.


    UK - Sun 20th January 2013 08:21pm (GMT)

 
Subject : terrano
hi i have a 1999 2.7td terrano,when im doing about 50-60 mph it seems
to miss/jerk,any help would be grate thanks

ieuan
wrexham, UK - Sun 20th January 2013 01:44am (GMT)
  • Subject : terrano
    It is almost certainly a problem with the injection of fuel into the
    engine. When was the last time you replaced your fuel filter? what
    condition was it in when you examined it? full of black gunge/ if so,
    did you follow the fuel line round to the injector pump, undo the
    banjo fitting and check/clean the gauze filter under it?

    Doug
    UK - Sun 20th January 2013 07:30am (GMT)

  • Subject : terrano
    Next thing is to check carefully every inch of the exterior of the
    large air feed tubes running from the filter through to to engine via
    the inter cooler. Any breaks in this (and the break may be at the
    bottom out of normal view) means a difference between what the air
    sensor outputs and what the injectors are told to put into the engine
    (like a lean condition in a petrol engine)

    Doug
    - UK - Sun 20th January 2013 07:35am (GMT)

 
Subject : Oil deep stick
Hi..I have a Nissan Terrano Mistral 2.7 automatic UK reg 2001 imported
from Japan – made in 1994, we bought it to work as a mobile clinic
in Africa for our charity (www.riverafrica.org), I am due to ship it
on the 16 of January, so I carried out all the basic checks
(transmission fluid etc) but when a I removed the oil deep stick there
was no oil on the stick, I added 1ltr and I could just about see
remnants of oil at the bottom of the stick – I have never seen a
deep stick like it before, I am wondering if the tip has broken off, I
have tried googling for the manual or picture of the deep stick to no
avail…the deep stick has three coils at the bottom of the stick and
has no makings to indicate maximum and minimum oil levels..please
help
daniel www.riverafrica.org

daniel
London, UK, UK - Sat 12th January 2013 02:00pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Oil deep stick
    The only way to be sure you have the right amount of oil in the sump
    is to drain it and then pour the correct amount back into the
    engine..and you may as well do this with nice clean oil anyway. The
    sump empty should take at least 5.5 litres, plus another .5 litre if
    you replace the oil filter at the same time. Then find out where the
    oil levels come to on your stick, and mark the stick with a file and
    maintain the oil level topped up to that point..
    If your dipstick
    is too short, try to find another one...who knows what a previous
    owner has bodged up,,perhaps when some service station forecourt
    attendant left the dipstick lying in the engine compartment instead of
    putting it back in the tube after a check? The important points to a
    dipstick are: that it indicates the correct level of oil, and that the
    top properly seals against the dipstick tube so no oil can sprays out,
    or dirty air be drawn in, which means you can adapt one from another
    vehicle. try a wrecker..they may be able to help, but some
    dipsticks/tubes are longer than others....

    John
    Nz - Sun 13th January 2013 12:15am (GMT)

 
Subject : Front diff oil
After having owned a 1993 2.7 turbo wide body auto transmission
terrano for 12 trouble free years of general motoring and towing both
a 5 metre caravan and similar sized boat (not at same time) I sold the
vehicle still performing like new and purchased a low kms 1996
diesel/turbo/intercooled/auto QD32 model for the extra power
easpecially when towing. I have not been disappointed; it is a
different beast but I still get a little nostalgic for my old Terrano.
Enough talk; I had a faint rear diff whine in the QD32 and could
hear chattering when cornering (it has a limited slip diff). I have
drained and refilled the diff with LSD oil grade 85W 140 which is
recommented on both CASTROL and NULON Oils home pages despite the
local NISSAN dealer workshop advsing me to use 90 grade gear oil. The
whine and Chatter has gone and I have towed the caravan aroundthe
South Island trouble free. I would like to change the oil in the
front diff. Can I use the same grade of oil as the rear diff and
while I am at it can you confirm that the transfer box uses DEXRON 3?
Thanks.

Gary
Upper Hutt, Wellington, New Zealand - Thu 10th January 2013 10:15pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Front diff oil
    Yes you can..LSD oil is necessary in LSD rear axles, and will work in
    front axles. REPCO sell 4 litre packs of a light blue LSD oil that I
    use in both diffs, using a $10 Warehouse 4 litre sprayer with the
    spray tip removed. Quick injection of the oil, no mess, no fuss.
    Always make sure you can undo the filler bung BEFORE taking out the
    drain bung...and check that the vents work while you are under
    there...
    Dexron3 confirmed. Do not use Dex6. I have also put a
    magnefine in line filter in the circuit, plus an extra auto trans
    cooler and can tow without worries of overheating..yours may already
    be fitted with an extra cooler??
    PS the Nissan dealer must have
    wanted to replace your diff for you in the near future...at your cost,
    of course.

    John
    NZ - Fri 11th January 2013 12:02pm (GMT)

    • Subject : Front diff oil
      Just to clarify, aTF Dexron3 in the transfer case. the other items
      mentioned magnefine and extra cooler are in the auto trans cooling
      circuit.

      John
      nz - Sun 13th January 2013 03:23am (GMT)

 
Subject : Reving on cold start
Terrano II 2.4i petrol. Have a little problem when starting from cold,
engine fires first time but then revs to about 1500rpm and gradually
drops as it warms up until idle speed of about 750rpm, it just seems
to rev more than it should do when cold, i suspect its a sensor some
where thats telling the engine its too cold but not sure where, does
anybody now the correct sequence/sensors for telling the engine what
to do on cold start.
Regards Tim

Tim Brooksbank
- Spain - Thu 10th January 2013 07:20pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Reving on cold start
    Is your engine the KA24E? If so have a look on the net for references
    to this with particular note re the idle air control
    e.g.
    http://www.angelfire.com/extreme/hawaiianhardbody/engine.html

    Doug
    UK - Sat 12th January 2013 12:32am (GMT)

    • Subject : Reving on cold start
      Thanks Doug
      Its is the KA24E 1999 model. The link is very
      interesting and tells all, but not sure I could diagnose without the
      checker
      Regards Tim

      Tonk
      Spain - Sat 12th January 2013 09:01am (GMT)

      • Subject : Reving on cold start
        Find the IAC and disassemble and clean it making sure that all the
        passages and tubes leading to and from it are unblocked, and that any
        moving parts can move. This is the part that gunges up over time and
        with use....

        Doug
        UK - Sat 12th January 2013 11:46am (GMT)

        • Subject : Reving on cold start
          Thanks Doug
          I have had a look and its on the throttle set up, will
          strip it down monday if weather is kind and see if its gunged
          up
          Regards Tim

          tonk
          Spain - Sat 12th January 2013 03:47pm (GMT)

          • Subject : Reving on cold start
            How did you go after cleaning up the IAC?
            Doug
            UK - Thu 31st January 2013 07:38am (GMT)

 
Subject : Nissan Mistral 4wd locking hubs
Hi there. i have a Nissan mistral and prior and during the time i have
owned it, it has wrecked both 4wd locking clips in the hubs. I want to
opt for manual locking hubs(200 on Trademe) from off a 95 terrano. are
these a direct replacement? Cheers

chas
Auckland, NZ - Thu 10th January 2013 06:24am (GMT)
  • Subject : Nissan Mistral 4wd locking hubs
    curious on this one as well
    hey you
    AK, N Z - Mon 11th March 2013 04:01am (GMT)

    • Subject : Nissan Mistral 4wd locking hubs
      The only way to be sure is with a spline count..the number of splines
      on the axle must match the number of slots in the new locking
      mechanism..and of course there are different spline counts on
      different models and years. Let's face it, if you can replace the
      factory locking mechanism by using Nissan parts and get another 15
      years of life by lubricating them and exercising them properly..why
      spend extra on manual hubs (unless you are hard-core offroader..in
      which case why are you using a Terrano with it's limited aftermarket
      parts availability?)

      John
      NZ - Tue 26th March 2013 11:12am (GMT)

  • Subject : Nissan Mistral 4wd locking hubs
    A) 27 Spline - for 1993 and earlier Nissan Terrano (Pathfinder),
    Navara (Datsun) & for the Nissan Mistrals (all years)

    B) 28
    Spline - for 1994 onwards Nissan Terrano (Pathfinder), Navara (Datsun)

    John
    - NZ - Sun 02nd June 2013 01:04am (GMT)

 
Subject : NissanTerranoTD27 Model 1997
The break lights are always on. How do I solve this problem? Thank you

Wreng Viray
Quezon City, Philippines - Wed 09th January 2013 05:01am (GMT)
  • Subject : NissanTerranoTD27 Model 1997
    There is a switch on the brake pedal inside the vehicle in the foot
    well up under the dash which activates the brake lights. Find the
    switch and replace or repair it.

    John
    NZ - Wed 09th January 2013 08:28am (GMT)

    • Subject : NissanTerranoTD27 Model 1997
      wiiring diagram automatic transmition
      please give me for diagram
      and pinout tcu.thanks

      mardiskhan
      batam, riau, indonesia - Wed 09th January 2013 01:04pm (GMT)

 
Subject :
problem starting, heater plug light goes off, turns over starts but
dies. red light on top of dash permenantly on. then starts but runs
rough and red light stays on.

steve mapp
- UK - Tue 08th January 2013 06:42pm (GMT)
  • Subject :
    what is the symbol illuminated by the red light?
    Doug
    UK - Tue 08th January 2013 08:09pm (GMT)

    • Subject :
      i think its just the alarm light flashes when locked then off until
      the glow plug light goes off turn the key then light stays on nissan
      terrano 11 2002 2.7 tdi


      UK - Tue 08th January 2013 09:04pm (GMT)

  • Subject :
    Has the time taken for the glow plug light to extinguish from cold
    start,changed? If so perhaps one or more glow plugs are burnt out. The
    glow plugs reach correct operating temperature, then cycle on and off
    until the water temperature reaches 50C then switch off completely.
    This could account for the engine dying straight away after the start,
    then running rough. Does the engine run smoothly after 6 miles or so
    of running, when all the cylinders are at the normal running
    temperature?

    Doug
    - UK - Wed 09th January 2013 01:47am (GMT)

    • Subject :
      no same time no change had keys checked they are all ok been in the
      garage now 3 days and no joy
      nats light always on

      steve
      UK - Sun 20th January 2013 09:02am (GMT)

  • Subject :
    still same no change at all on timing
    its the nats light thats
    stays on had keys checked all ok been in the garage for 3 days but
    they dont know if you trun the key on off quick some times it will
    start other times it wont and just flaten the battey help please :-(

    steve
    - UK - Sun 20th January 2013 09:16am (GMT)

  • Subject :
    and no folt codes when pluged in
    steve
    - UK - Sun 20th January 2013 12:02pm (GMT)

    • Subject :
      Nissan anti theft system is being activated, so it does what it is
      supposed to do and stops or tries to stop your engine from starting
      (and your vehicle from being stolen).
      It's a computer. What do you
      do when a computer screws up..reboot it. Take the positive lead off
      the battery and keep it off overnight. reconnect it in the morning.
      Reset the radio code. See if this helps.
      I hope you are going to a
      Nissan dealer garage for diagnosis?

      Doug
      UK - Wed 23rd January 2013 03:45pm (GMT)

 
Subject : Terrano overheating
hi. terrano overheating while going uphill. i changed the head gaskit
(no head crack), changed radiator, Changed the cap and remove
thermostad for time being. the coolant boils and overflows the reserve
tank.what could be the problem.

Ashrit Pratap
suva, Fiji - Thu 03rd January 2013 07:39pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Terrano overheating
    Taking out the thermostat doesn't help with a modern vehicle as the
    water the cannot be forced by the pump the circulate through the
    passages in the head and block, and will "short circuit" by the
    easiest and shortest way causing steam pockets and worse
    problems.
    the most likely problem is your radiator. take it out,
    ahve a radiator shop take off the top and bottom tanks and rod the
    radiator through the tubes.
    Then put the radiator back in, put in
    the correct Nissan thermostat (not some cheap knock off from the
    corner garage) and fill everything with good anti freeze/anti boil and
    you should be good to go.The only other remotely possible cause for
    ;poor or no circulation is the water pump impeller being loose on it's
    shaft, or broken fins on the rotor, but that is very unlikely and can
    be checked with the engine cold but full of water, take off one of the
    heater hoses at the thermostat, start the engine and see if the water
    squirts out of the hole under pressure..you will need the thermostat
    in for that...

    John
    NZ - Thu 03rd January 2013 10:27pm (GMT)

  • Subject : Terrano overheating
    Oops, one other thing, check that the fan is working properly..it is a
    heat sensitive and should engage immediately the engine is started,
    remain on for a short time until it reaches a certain temperature,
    then 'idle' still rotating a little until it gets hot enough to "kick
    in" (when climbing hills/towing) and the roar is quite distinctive. If
    there is no change in the sound of the fan when it engages, then you
    will need to replace the fan clutch, or replace it and the water pump
    as one unit.

    John
    - UK - Thu 03rd January 2013 10:33pm (GMT)

 
Subject : Heater cuts out Intermitently Navara
I have a 2004 Nissan Navara. Sometimes the heater works fine, other
times it switches on ok, but then cuts out, sometimes within minutes
other times it may be after 20 mins. There is no pattern to it, just
randomly stopping working. Any ideas?

Jaki
Northants, Northamptonshire, UK - Sat 29th December 2012 09:41pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Heater cuts out Intermitently Navara
    Are we talking about the fan motor cutting out, or is it the actual
    heat coming out of the heater?
    If the fan motor is cutting out,
    does this happen at all fan speeds, or just one in particular?
    If
    all fan speeds are affected, then the fan motor itself may have worn
    brushes or a bad ground from the motor to the chassis.
    If1,2,3
    speeds are affected, but 4 still works, then we are looking at a
    problem with the resistor on the fan housing, either corroded contacts
    or heating up and losing contact internally.
    If the level of heat
    is the problem, then the regulation of the heat has a problem which
    IIRC that is an all electronic unit which may require replacement,
    possibly second hand would be the most economical?

    Doug
    UK - Sun 30th December 2012 10:52pm (GMT)

 
Subject : torsion bar
i have a mk2 terano and snapped a torsion bar front drivers
side.
we replaced it and screwed it up to the same height of the
other side. it was fine for approx 2 hrs and then car dropped back
down torsion bar still intacked.
we obviously have done something
wrong. can anyone help to sort this

steven
- cumbria, UK - Sat 29th December 2012 08:14pm (GMT)
  • Subject : torsion bar
    I presume you are using a second hand bar, so this may already be
    "sagging".
    Logically, if the bar is still intact, then the fixings
    (splines) at either end must have slipped, or the tension initially
    set on the bar on installation was too low.
    Take the bar out
    again, check for any sign of spline damage from a "slip".
    If the
    drop occurred instantaneously, the splines must have
    slipped.

    If it happened over a period of time, then perhaps
    the tension needs to be increased, i.e. a couple of splines more
    tension initially, then slip it into the splines, then reset the
    adjuster to the correct ride height or even slightly more and see if
    it "sags" to the right height under load and time pressures.
    If it
    slowly sags again, try another couple of splines more tension etc etc.

    John
    NZ - Sun 30th December 2012 11:05pm (GMT)

  • Subject : torsion bar
    Caution: Torsion bars are directional left and right. Failure to
    instal the correct bar in the correct side WILL result in torsion bar
    failure.

    see this
    article:
    http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/nissan-hardbody-truck-su
    spension-torsion-bars-bushings.html

    John
    - NZ - Sun 30th December 2012 11:14pm (GMT)

 
Subject : CV Joints
What are the number of inner and outer splines for outer CV joint for
Nissan Terrano 4X4

Charles Ziupfu
Gweru, Zimbabwe, UK - Mon 17th December 2012 02:06pm (GMT)
  • Subject : CV Joints
    The spline count varies depending on model and year.
    Frank
    Australia - Tue 18th December 2012 08:33am (GMT)

  • Subject : CV Joints
    A) 27 Spline - for 1993 and earlier Nissan Terrano (Pathfinder),
    Navara (Datsun) & for the Nissan Mistrals (all years)

    B) 28
    Spline - for 1994 onwards Nissan Terrano (Pathfinder), Navara (Datsun)

    John
    - NZ - Sun 02nd June 2013 01:09am (GMT)

 
Subject : Terra no
Hi I have a 1998 Terrano when it is standing with the engine running I
hear a noise like a ratchet any idea what it could be its petrol/LPG
thanks

Kim
Newcastle, UK - Mon 10th December 2012 09:08am (GMT)
  • Subject : Terra no
    My crystal ball is cracked, and I cannot hear the noise at this
    distance. Could you tell me if the noise increases in volume or
    frequency in relation to the revs of the engine? Does it "ratchet"
    when in gear (is it an auto) with the clutch out or the clutch in (if
    manual)? Does the noise change when you turn on the headlights and the
    fan on high (alternator) or the air conditioning? Have you checked the
    wear or tightness of the fan belts? Is the engine fan hitting
    something? Is something hitting the fan? Is the ratcheting coming from
    the front of the engine or the back? Please take the time to open the
    bonnet and listen carefully.

    John
    NZ - Tue 11th December 2012 04:10am (GMT)

  • Subject : Terra no
    Hi will get back to you at the weekend as I work nights through the
    week so don't have time to check it out but the noise only seems to
    happen when I am parked up at work with the engine running to keep
    myself warm on breaks

    Kim
    Newcastle, UK - Tue 11th December 2012 07:23am (GMT)

    • Subject : Terra no
      Try switching the heater/ air con fan speed and see if the ratcheting
      occurs at different speeds. Could be something as simple as leaves in
      the fan housing....

      John
      NZ - Tue 11th December 2012 09:33pm (GMT)

 
Subject : gear selection
hi i have a nissan terrano o3 plate with full history [only had it
6months] and 1st gear seem to be a bit of a struggle whilst engine is
running but no problem to find when engine isnt running any ideas
would be of great help -billy

billy hayes
sunderland, UK - Sun 09th December 2012 04:05pm (GMT)
  • Subject : gear selection
    Sounds like clutch drag to me..the clutch is not disengaging
    completely and needs adjustment, probably the hydraulic line needs
    bleeding, and if the slave cylinder is weeping, that needs replacement
    or sleeving in stainless steel to stop corrosion and the wear of the
    seals.

    Doug
    UK - Mon 10th December 2012 12:53am (GMT)

    • Subject : gear selection
      thankyou for your help -billy
      billy hayes
      sunderland, UK - Mon 10th December 2012 08:00am (GMT)

 
Subject : 95 nissan mistral
I am unable to move the gear stick from park and now there's a loud
shrilling noise when I turned the key on.

Patricia Reweti
Kawerau, Bay of Plenty, New Zealand - Sun 09th December 2012 06:45am (GMT)
  • Subject : 95 nissan mistral
    What state is the battery in? Do you have your foot on the brake and
    the ignition key on when you attempt to move the selector from park?
    The brake circuit activates a relay that allows the selector to move;
    no foot on brake with key"on" means the selector can't be
    moved.
    When you say there is a loud shrilling, is that immediately
    when you turn the ignition to "on" or is it when you turn the key
    further to try to start? Does the starter motor trying to engage the
    ring gear make this shrilling, and the engine refuses to turn
    over?
    I suspect a weak battery and/or dirty grounds on the earth
    straps to the engine and chassis.

    John
    NZ - Sun 09th December 2012 12:13pm (GMT)

 
Subject : key fob/alarm
2002 nissan terrano 2.7tdi sport
hi guys my key fob was playing up
a few weeks ago( working now and again )so sent it off for repair,
when it came back all was well as it had a new battery and new casing
and worked perfectly...until now, now it hardly works at all so am
assuming its something else other than the key, also if i lock it with
the key all is fine until you unlock it then the alarm goes off and i
stand there like a mad man trying to use the fob to turn it off... has
any one or everyone come across this problem...cheers in advance

pat
ipswich, suffolk, UK - Fri 07th December 2012 08:14pm (GMT)
  • Subject : key fob/alarm
    Simple things first..I know you believe there is a new battery in the
    fob, but just for laughs buy a new one and put it in and see if it
    works well again. Batteries can go bad very quickly,or it could have
    been old stock that sat on the shelf a long time before being put into
    your nice new case.

    Doug
    UK - Sat 08th December 2012 04:03am (GMT)

    • Subject : key fob/alarm
      hi thanks for your reply but im pretty sure its not the battery as i
      replaced it a few weeks before i sent it off for repair, i thought the
      same thing as you... try the battery first... the repair company puts
      a new battery in as part of there service so its had two new batterys
      within a month...any ideas ?????

      pat
      ipswich, suffolk, UK - Sun 09th December 2012 09:25am (GMT)

      • Subject : key fob/alarm
        The cheapest,easiest part to replace is the battery. Perhaps the key
        fob activates when it is in your pocket, draining the battery very
        quickly. If YOU put a new battery in now, you will be able to check
        the results straight away. As I said, you knew you had put a new
        battery in before it went away. The company SAID they replaced the
        battery, but do you know for sure that the replacement battery was
        100%?
        Just do it.....then you can eliminate that niggle

        Doug
        UK - Sun 09th December 2012 12:06pm (GMT)

        • Subject : key fob/alarm
          hi doug yes will try a new battery today as my keys are always in my
          pocket at work and its quite possible that ive flattened the
          battery...i'll keep you posted...thanks for your help doug
          pat

          pat
          ipswich, suffolk, UK - Mon 10th December 2012 08:50am (GMT)

          • Subject : key fob/alarm
            hi doug
            looks like you hit the nail on the head mate, ive kept my
            keys out of my pocket whilst at work and no problems so far

            cheers
            pat

            pat
            UK - Fri 04th January 2013 10:39pm (GMT)

 
Subject : Heater Blows Hot & Cold
My 1996 P Reg Nissan Mistral (Terrano II)steams up badly in cold
weather and heater fails to de-mist the whole car.
Also, even on
full heat, cold air is blown down into the passenger foot well whilst
centre console floor blowers blow out warm air?
I swapped the
heater control unit but still blows freezing air on passenger
side.
Is this a heater matrix problem, please help. Thanks.

Paul
Leeds, Yorkshire, UK - Sun 02nd December 2012 01:19am (GMT)
  • Subject : Heater Blows Hot & Cold
    When you use the air con at the same time as the heater on full, with
    the air controls set to demist, what effect does that have on the
    demisting process in your case?
    Theoretically, the incoming cold
    air is cooled, the moisture drops out and condenses on the freezing
    cold air con matrix, and the dry cold air then goes over the heater
    matrix, providing hot dry air which will demist the car
    properly.
    Can you confirm this happens?
    Also, has your vehicle
    got a pollen filter in the air conduit in behind the glove box? This
    can also trap leaves etc which can block the air supply? If no pollen
    filter, then leaves can go through and jam the various flaps and
    levers controlling the distribution of air.

    Doug
    UK - Sun 02nd December 2012 12:39pm (GMT)

    • Subject : Heater Blows Hot & Cold
      Thanks for your reply.
      I noticed yesterday that some of the foam
      packing between a joint on a component on the passenger side next to
      the fan had perished and dropped out, blowing cold air straight
      out.
      I sealed this with a bead of silicone sealant and this has
      increased the flow through the system.
      Just monitoring how it
      demists over next couple of days and I will report back

      Paul
      Leeds, Yorkshire, UK - Mon 03rd December 2012 05:36pm (GMT)

 
Subject : Terrano 4wd light on dash
hi. i have nissan terrano II 1996, diesel automatic td27 engine.
recently i have 4wd light on when driving at 2wd. it also idles low at
600rpm. any suggestions please.....

Ashrit Pratap
suva, Fiji - Mon 05th November 2012 01:25am (GMT)
  • Subject : Terrano 4wd light on dash
    Does your terrano have the lever for 2H,4H and 4L; or does it have the
    switch on the dash which includes "auto" setting?
    Low idle could
    be a couple of things; has this occurred suddenly and recently, or
    over time?
    have you changed the fuel filter and cleaned the gauze
    at the banjo bolt fitting at the entry to the injection pump?

    John
    NZ - Mon 05th November 2012 09:09pm (GMT)

    • Subject : Terrano 4wd light on dash
      teranno has lever for 4h and 4l and switch for 2wd, auto and lock. Low
      idle recently. the car is serviced in every 5k and the pump is
      serviced 2 months ago.

      Ashrit Pratap
      suva, Fiji - Mon 05th November 2012 10:07pm (GMT)

      • Subject : Terrano 4wd light on dash
        let me guess that this low idle only started after the pump was
        serviced, so go back to the service person and ask him to adjust the
        idle now the pump has settled down.
        as for the light on the dash,
        what positions are the lever and switch in when the light comes on?

        John
        NZ - Tue 06th November 2012 07:54am (GMT)

        • Subject : Terrano 4wd light on dash
          i will get the service guys to adjust the idle. the dash light its on
          4H and 4wd light is on full time even if switch is on 2wd, Auto and
          4wd. the 4 green light is not on. the switch works but just the light
          is not responding. i cant move the lever to 4L.

          Ashrit Pratap
          Suva, Fiji - Tue 06th November 2012 07:06pm (GMT)

          • Subject : Terrano 4wd light on dash
            See Ray's Q and A below re stuck selector lever. Possible your lever
            is also rusted solid????

            John
            NZ - Sat 10th November 2012 01:38am (GMT)

            • Subject : Terrano 4wd light on dash
              Hi John. i manage to solve the problem.I changed the Transfer case oil
              and clean the selector lever. i think the selector lever was stuck due
              to old oil. everything is fine now. thanks for your help.

              Ashrit Pratap
              Suva, Fiji - Sun 11th November 2012 07:19pm (GMT)

 
Subject : switch
Hi, Another question on the dash board there is a switch just to the
left side of the steering wheel it shows an x thro it any ideas what
this is for? Regards, Ray

Ray Price
Blyth, Northumberland, UK - Thu 01st November 2012 11:23am (GMT)
  • Subject : switch
    May be to lock the power windows,although it is on the right side on
    mine?

    Tom
    auckland, new zealand - Thu 01st November 2012 07:06pm (GMT)

    • Subject : switch
      Cheers Tom for answering my enquiry, Been outside and checked its not
      for the windows that power switch is down beside my handbrake, again
      thanks, Kind Regards, Ray

      Ray Price
      Blyth, U.K., UK - Thu 01st November 2012 07:55pm (GMT)

  • Subject : switch
    If I remember correctly, this switch turns off the internal sensors
    for the alarm so you can leave a dog in the car????

    John
    - NZ - Sat 03rd November 2012 07:14am (GMT)

    • Subject : switch
      Cheers for that John will let you know later on when i get the chance
      to go outside and try it. Regards, Ray

      Ray Price
      Blyth, Northumberland, UK - Sat 03rd November 2012 07:34am (GMT)

    • Subject : switch
      Hi John, Been out side and checked, yes I'm almost certain that is
      what it is thanks very much for your help, just need to find out how
      to get the little gear lever into low ratio now when i press it down
      it just wont move any further back tried all sorts, Thanks again.
      Regards, Ray

      Ray Price
      Blyth, Northumberland, UK - Sat 03rd November 2012 11:49am (GMT)

      • Subject : switch
        try it while you are coasting very slowly in neutral on the main
        gearbox; the slight motion may relieve any pressure on the gears and
        allow easier engagement. If the vehicle is new to you, you probably
        don't know how often the previous owner engaged 4wd low (possibly
        never) so the mechanism may be rusted solid. the transfer case may
        need new fluid etc etc. read this site and you may get some more
        clues.

        John
        NZ - Sat 03rd November 2012 07:22pm (GMT)

        • Subject : switch
          Cheers for that John, I will give it a try 1st thing in the morning
          when i go fishing FINGERS CROSSED, thanks again. Ray

          Ray Price
          blyth, northumberland, UK - Sat 03rd November 2012 08:16pm (GMT)

        • Subject : switch
          Hi John, Tried that a few times today but still it wont go into
          neutral or low ratio, probably next thing is to get it on a ramp and
          have a look and maybe have the tranfer box out, more money, thanks
          again for your help and if you do come up with any more idea's let me
          know. Regards, Ray.

          Ray Price
          Blyth, Northumberland, UK - Sun 04th November 2012 05:52pm (GMT)

        • Subject : switch
          Hi John, Was already to go and buy a second hand box becuase i was
          starting to think after you said that it may be rusted solid, anyhow i
          let a mechanic look at it you were right it was rusted tight and as
          you said probably with the lack of use, He had the car away for 2
          hours and brought it back and everything working fine, without your
          help i just might have gone and spent a small fortune but at the end
          of the day he only charged me £20, I know this is a bit early but
          have a very happy Xmas and New Year, and thanks again, Regards, Ray.

          Ray Price
          Blyth, Northumberland, UK - Fri 09th November 2012 09:27am (GMT)

          • Subject : switch
            It was a pleasure to be of service. Here in NZ we don't have the
            severe winters which require salt on the roads which kills all things
            mechanical.
            Just find a small gravel or mud lane somewhere nearby
            and use that selector once a month at least and drive in 4wd to keep
            everything working as it should.
            Same with the air conditioning,
            at least once a month, summer or winter to keep the system functioning
            properly.
            Enjoy the Silly Season which is fast approaching!

            John
            Nz - Sat 10th November 2012 01:34am (GMT)

 
Subject : transfer box
Hi, I am a newbie on this forum and after some advice. I have a Nissan
Terrano 2.7 diesel year 1997, the problem i have is with the transfer
box its working 2high 4high but wont go into the neutral postion and i
cant engage low ratio, has anybody came across this problem before?
and what is the best thing to do to try and fix it. all reply's will
be greatly helpful to try and sort this problem out. Regards. Ray

Ray Price
Blyth, Northumberland, UK - Thu 01st November 2012 10:14am (GMT)
  • Subject : transfer box
    If your terrano is an auto make sure its in park or neutral before
    moving to low range . You also have to push the transfer lever down
    and back as you shift from high 4 to low 4 .

    steve
    nz - Fri 02nd November 2012 10:13am (GMT)

    • Subject : transfer box
      Hi Steve, The gearbox is a manuel shift and i have tried about
      everything to get it into low ratio, the transfer box gearstick
      pushes down but wont go back to engage low ratio, Thanks for your
      email. Kind Regards, Ray

      Ray Price
      Blyth, Northumberland, UK - Fri 02nd November 2012 11:44am (GMT)

 
Subject : terrano immobiliser fault
left my window down then the rain came down and soaked ignition area
now it wont start any ideas wether it may be the ring around the key
or would it wreck the ecu.
any help would be welcome before i
start spending on the wrong things.

john hamilton
Ashington, northumberland, UK - Mon 22nd October 2012 06:12pm (GMT)
  • Subject : terrano immobiliser fault
    Did you leave your keys in the ignition as well? Spray the keyhole
    with a good water repellent like wd40 or crc5.56 or 6.66 to drive out
    moisture. With the key in the ignition and turned to "on", can you
    raise and lower the windows etc which shows that the immobiliser could
    well be the problem?

    Doug
    UK - Mon 22nd October 2012 11:49pm (GMT)

 
Subject : noise in gear box area
I have a 1998 nissan terrano diesel turbo, when I'm driving I hear a
noise from underneath like a spring uncoiling and then a loud bang. I
have just replaced the starter motor and rubbers on sway bar on left
front wheel.

michelle
geelong, victoria, australia - Sun 21st October 2012 06:32am (GMT)
  • Subject : noise in gear box area
    When did this noise occur, before or after you replaced the starter
    motor and the sway bar bushes? Why did you replace only the ones on
    the left side? What speed does this occur, after bumps, during
    acceleration, when lifting off the accelerator, under braking???

    John
    NZ - Mon 22nd October 2012 03:51pm (GMT)

    • Subject : noise in gear box area
      i replaced the starter motor in july, just done the bushes on
      friday,only done left side for now as it was making bad wizzing noise
      and had been doing it for awhile just needed to have someone to help
      me do them.. The new noise started on thursday of last week, i just
      took it to a mechanic and they have removed the spring from the right
      side hub as they said it was broken and that is what was causing the
      noise. i can no longer use 4wd but im happy as long as i can still use
      the car. the noise was happening as i was driving down the road.

      michelle
      geelong, victoria, australia - Tue 23rd October 2012 03:54am (GMT)

      • Subject : noise in gear box area
        So it was the auto locking hub spring which gave up the ghost? you
        should be able to get that part from Nissan. If you very rarely use
        4wd, just replace the spring and you should be good to go for another
        14 years. Otherwise you may have to shell out for manual locking
        hubs, they rarely break, but they can be expensive to buy. good luck.

        John
        NZ - Tue 23rd October 2012 06:44am (GMT)

 
Subject : BALL JOINT
HI I AM NOT GETTING THE RIGHT BALL JOINT FOR MY NISSAN MISTRAL YEAR
1998.WHAT I HAVE JUST PURCHASE IS A BIT SHORTER .MY TYRE IS EATING
OUTSIDE
WHERE CAN I GET THIS BALL JOINT .WHAT IS THE EXACT PART
NUMBER KING REGARDS Anwar

ANWAR
ROSE HILL, MAURITIUS - Sun 21st October 2012 04:17am (GMT)
  • Subject : BALL JOINT
    If you bought this part through a retailer, go back with it and
    exchange it for the correct one. It does not matter what the part
    number is, you need one which is the correct length, so use the
    original and have it matched, then get a full wheel alignment done.

    john
    NZ - Mon 22nd October 2012 03:54pm (GMT)

 
Subject : engine shut off
Hi my 1998 nissan terrano diesel engine is not shuting off with the
key can some one tell me how to locate the relay that control the shut
off valve

lynford Byron
na, na, st vincent - Sat 06th October 2012 01:29pm (GMT)
  • Subject : engine shut off
    http://www.onlinefreeebooks.net/autos/car/nissan-terrano-model-r20-ser
    ies-service-manual-pdf.html

    Doug
    UK - Mon 22nd October 2012 03:59pm (GMT)

 
Subject : Nissan Mistral 94 2.7 Turbo Diesel
Alternator Troubles. Managed to get alternator off, now trying figure
out how to pull apart so I can change brushes. Any suggestions welcome

James Roberts
Auckland, NZ - Fri 17th August 2012 05:17am (GMT)
  • Subject : Nissan Mistral 94 2.7 Turbo Diesel
    i left that to my local alternator overhauler. $280 for new bearings
    and a NZ made diode pack..and that was 5 years ago with no subsequent
    problems.
    otherwise a trip to the local library usually comes up
    with manuals..or check the internet for the you tube tutorials.
    Ps
    unless you haven't been changing the engine oil and filter regularly,
    there should be no need to overhaul the vacuum pump..

    john
    christchurch - Tue 18th September 2012 07:20pm (GMT)

  • Subject : Nissan Mistral 94 2.7 Turbo Diesel
    Would appreciate assisting me in obtaining timing diagram.
    Thanks

    Terry Maraki
    Honiara, Solomon Islands - Mon 07th January 2013 10:06am (GMT)

 
Subject : Vacuum pump
is there a method of checking state/ condition of the vacuum pump on
the back of the altenator , and does anyone know roughly what the
vacuum should be

hey you
AK, NZ - Fri 20th July 2012 10:39pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Vacuum pump
    Take the rubber vacuum hose off the connection to the diaphragm of the
    brake booster, start the engine and place your finger over the end of
    the hose and see how much vacuum there is being created. The vacuum
    should be noticeable and increase as the revs rise.
    I presume that
    your brakes are becoming ineffective?
    It may not be the problem
    with the production of vacuum, but the retention of it in the
    booster...that could be leaking.
    are you losing brake fluid as
    well? Check for brake fluid in the end of the hose you take off the
    booster.
    Any brake fluid there indicates a problem in the
    booster.
    GET IT FIXED QUICKLY.

    John
    nZ - Sat 21st July 2012 04:13am (GMT)

 
Subject : turbo
how can i check to to see if turbo is working seems to be lacking
power when hot p reg 2.7 tdi 2bx

steven
cumbria, UK - Wed 04th July 2012 08:00pm (GMT)
  • Subject : turbo
    Check the integrity of the hoses leading from the turbo to the
    intercooler, and from there to the intake manifold. Check that the
    clamps on the hoses are tight. the only way to check if the turbo is
    working is to use a pressure guage temporarily t-eed into the system.

    doug
    UK - Thu 05th July 2012 04:55am (GMT)

 
Subject : NEW CAR
Today i am going to look at a Nissan Terrano Y reg 2.7 td
sport
could anyome tell me what to look out for when looking at
the car

thanks

STEVE
chester, cheshire, UK - Fri 29th June 2012 06:26am (GMT)
  • Subject : NEW CAR
    You've left your research a bit late. if you know nothing about these
    vehicles, get a mechanic you trust to look over the vehicle. He may be
    able to spot obvious serious problems quickly, or otherwise advise
    problems that can be brought to the seller's attention to bargain down
    the price.
    Remember the old adage, "Buying second hand is buying
    someone else's problems"
    That being said most of these vehicles
    are reliable if they are maintained properly; try and ascertain the
    owner's attitude to maintenance as it is a good indicator as to how
    the vehicle has been treated. Look at the stickers re oil and filter
    changes, cleanliness under bonnet, oil on the dipstick, water in the
    reservoirs etc.
    If buying from a dealer believe nothing, and be
    wary of "as far as I know" answers...
    Good luck

    Doug
    UK - Fri 29th June 2012 07:34pm (GMT)

 
Subject : clicking noise from front wheel
I have a 1992 terrano in the last month or so i have a
clicking/grinding noise coming front the front left wheel this does
not happen all the time but will start to if the truck has been
sitting for a while(not driven) the noise will apear and get louder
the faster i go,but as soon as i stop the noise will stop and there
will be a clonk,if i put it in high 4wd it goes good as gold! it has
auto hubs will this be the problem as they might be engaing or
stuffed?? any help please??

scottie
timaru, nz - Thu 14th June 2012 06:21pm (GMT)
  • Subject : clicking noise from front wheel
    Don't just sit there listening to it, do something about it!
    Top
    suspect would be CV joint,look for a ripped boot; then auto hubs
    especially if you have not lubricated them, (and the noise goes away
    when the 4wd system is engaged i.e. when pressure goes on the
    components and locks them up),then brake discs/pads/sliding caliper
    pins etc.
    Time for you to get dirty and greasy....

    Doug
    UK - Thu 14th June 2012 09:13pm (GMT)

    • Subject : clicking noise from front wheel
      Took hubs off front right was seized so puttingmanual one on,also how
      oil does the rear diff hold (litres)cheers

      scottie
      nz - Sun 17th June 2012 10:03pm (GMT)

      • Subject : clicking noise from front wheel
        Before you drain the oil out, MAKE SURE you unscrew the fill
        plug...they can be a beyatch to remove...
        Capacity is about 2.8
        litres.
        I've used Repco LSD oil which comes in a 4 litre pack and
        had good results.
        Buy one of those $10 4 litre pressure sprayers
        from the warehouse, leave the spray head off, and there is no fuss
        pumping the heavy lubricant into the diff, plus you have some left
        over for top ups if necessary.Do the front diff at the same time, you
        can use lsd oil in a non lsd diff, but not the other way
        round.
        Unscrew and check that the vent on top of the diff isn't
        gunged up; it is supposed to allow air in and out. Helps stop leaks
        caused by a build up of pressure. It also allows water in if you dip
        into a river with a hot diff, which is why you should replace diff
        fluid every time you go seriously 4wd through rivers. Cheaper than
        replacing the diff....

        John
        Christchurch, NZ - Mon 18th June 2012 04:21am (GMT)

        • Subject : clicking noise from front wheel
          excellent thanks john,is the front diff as same as rear diff when
          chaging oil? also like i said in last message one of my auto hubs was
          locked up ive manage to free it and is unlocked....can i still use it?
          give it a good clean an lube or ditch it? as i been pricing up some
          manual ones an they are not cheap any ideas??thanks

          scottie
          nz - Mon 18th June 2012 04:50am (GMT)

          • Subject : clicking noise from front wheel
            There is nothing wrong with lubricating and restoring an auto hub. If
            you need to replace them, They are cheap and appear regularly on
            trademe. They certainly don't cost as much as the manual hubs. The
            secret is to use 4wd once a month, summer or winter, to keep the
            systems operational.Just like the airCon system, regular use
            throughout the year..
            Front diff has slightly less capacity, but
            have another 4 litre pack ready just in case...
            As previously
            stated, to check if the locking hubs still function properly, get
            under the vehicle with the 4wd selector in 2 H, engine off, twist the
            front drive shaft one way then the other. You will hear a click from
            both hubs engaging/disengaging if they are both working.
            While you
            are in the front hubs, check and lubricate the wheel bearings. Don't
            just throw more grease at them, take them apart, wash out and
            lubricate them.
            It looks complicated, but it is not rocket
            science..your local mechanic is not normally a rocket scientist, is
            he???

            John
            NZ - Mon 18th June 2012 09:31pm (GMT)

            • Subject : clicking noise from front wheel
              awesome thanks john for your help
              scottie
              nz - Mon 18th June 2012 10:20pm (GMT)

              • Subject : clicking noise from front wheel
                A) 27 Spline - for 1993 and earlier Nissan Terrano (Pathfinder),
                Navara (Datsun) & for the Nissan Mistrals (all years)

                B) 28
                Spline - for 1994 onwards Nissan Terrano (Pathfinder), Navara (Datsun)

                John
                NZ - Sun 02nd June 2013 01:17am (GMT)

 
Subject : Sump plug
Hello: Would anyone happen to know the thread pitch on the sump plug
for a Nissan terranoII R20 2.7 tdi. I know it's an M16 but I never got
around to measure the pitch. I'd just like to order a magnetic sump
plug before my next oil change is due.

Cheers

Bill
Liverpool, Sydney, Australia - Wed 13th June 2012 12:12am (GMT)
  • Subject : Sump plug
    It's amazing what you can find if you query
    google...

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M16-X-1-5-Hexagonal-Plug-
    Metric-Male-Thread-Brass-/310313856462?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarPar
    ts_SM&hash=item484025adce

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Magnetic-Oi
    l-Drain-Sump-Plug-M16-x-1-5-16mm-1-5-M16x1-5-16mm-x-1-5-PSR1391-/31038
    9940238?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4844aea00e&vxp=
    mtr


    John
    NZ - Wed 13th June 2012 03:57am (GMT)

    • Subject : Sump plug
      Thank you John for your help. I now realize there aren't many choices
      for M16 thread pitches. I was looking in the wrong places.
      Cheers

      Bill
      Liverpool, NSW, Australia - Thu 14th June 2012 03:05am (GMT)

 
Subject : The answers with the questions and the subject matter in alphabetical order??
Hey Lee, that listing of previous topics is good, but it needs to have
the answers contiguous to the questions, i.e. clicking on the topic
should bring up the answers underneath it so it can be read
easily...other wise I find myself having to go back to the whole list
and search by date...

John
Christchurch, NZ - Thu 07th June 2012 09:29am (GMT)
 
Subject : diff
dos my terano p reg 2.7 tdi have a ltd slip diff or is it just a
normal one i heard that the frod mavrik has one

steven
aspatria, cumbria, UK - Wed 06th June 2012 08:00pm (GMT)
  • Subject : diff
    Jack up the rear of the vehicle under the diff so that both rear
    wheels are off the ground.
    (Chock the front wheels and don't try
    this on sloping ground..flat surface only!)
    Ensure gear selector
    is in neutral, and handbrake is off.
    Go to one rear wheel. Spin it
    slowly in one direction.
    Look under the vehicle. If the wheel on
    the other side of the vehicle is turning in the same direction as the
    wheel you are spinning, you have LSD.
    If the other wheel is going
    in the opposite direction, you do not have LSD.
    Infallible test,
    use wisely.

    Doug
    UK - Thu 07th June 2012 09:16am (GMT)

  • Subject : diff
    Or if you are very lucky, there will be a little sticky label still on
    the diff with "LSD"
    but they can fall off, rub off or be torn
    off.
    I agree, above test works every time.
    Also, if you have
    LSD, use the LSD specific lube in the diff, otherwise the lsd will be
    ruined, and /or you will not appreciate the banging and thumping from
    the diff before it gets ruined.

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Thu 07th June 2012 09:22am (GMT)

  • Subject : diff

    Mark Lesniak
    Stoke on Trent, United Kingdom, UK - Fri 08th June 2012 11:40am (GMT)

 
Subject : The site has been ruined
All the history of answers to questions has been trashed in the
new-look site.
This is very disheartening.

Doug
- UK - Tue 05th June 2012 08:58pm (GMT)
  • Subject : The site has been ruined
    I'm not sure what you mean - all replies are still in place - in
    pink.

    Can you explain a bit more and I'll try and sort it
    out.

    Lee
    UK - Tue 05th June 2012 09:23pm (GMT)

    • Subject : The site has been ruined
      I agree.The last question was november 2011. what happened to all the
      ones before?

      Laurie
      Cheshunt, Victoria, australia - Wed 06th June 2012 04:06am (GMT)

  • Subject : The site has been ruined
    Hello, I truncated the posts to speed things up, but now I've added a
    link to show all posts. Hope this helps. I appreciate the feedback -
    don't hesitate to let me know if you got anu more
    thoughts.

    Thanks for your continuing support,

    Lee

    Lee
    - UK - Wed 06th June 2012 10:10pm (GMT)

 
Subject : Terrano II
Hi does anyone know if you can get aftermarket roof rails to fit a 3
door terrano. I have just bought one and would like to fit some roof
rails so io can use a roof box when we go away

Phil Gregg
Barnsley, Yorkshire, UK - Wed 30th May 2012 09:53pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Terrano II
    Have a gander at this:

    http://www.car-roofracks.co.uk/php/select-roof-racks-bars.php?rbv
    =rb&man=Nissan&make=Terrano%20Roofrailings

    Isn't the www a
    wonderful thing?
    Good luck

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Mon 04th June 2012 12:35pm (GMT)

 
Subject : terrano not charging
my dads '54 3ltr terrano is not charging, also the dash gauges are
working either. put dash away and alternater checked and all fine. is
there a master fuse or something. seems like its only since the dash
stopped that the battery stopped charging.

alun evans
aberchirder, scotland, UK - Tue 29th May 2012 05:07pm (GMT)
  • Subject : terrano not charging
    If the alternator tests as putting out voltage and amperage, then that
    realy leaves only the +ve connection to the battery, or from the -ve
    from the battery to the earth on the vehicle.
    Take off the -ve
    earth leads and clean the connection to the battery and to the
    bodywork, and clean the earth leads from the body to the
    engine.
    Take off the +ve lead and clean up the battery terminal
    and the clamp.
    I can't follow what you mean when you "put the dash
    away" I presume you pulled out the dash and checked all the plugs
    clipped into it; did you use electronic connection cleaner, a spray
    which cleans crud off the contact surfaces?
    If yours is a 96 to 99
    then those are renowned for dash problems, read previous postings on
    this site for the UK company which refurbishes them...
    Good luck

    Doug
    UK - Mon 04th June 2012 12:32pm (GMT)

 
Subject : MR
HI, CAN YOU TELL ME IF A BUMPER OF A NISSAN MISTRAL 1995 WILL FIT A
TERRANO SE
1999. THANK YOU FOR YOUR TIME.
FRED.

FRED
NORWICH, NORFOLK, UK - Fri 25th May 2012 10:05am (GMT)
  • Subject : MR
    If you have access to both vehicles do a quick measure up.
    Doug
    UK - Sat 26th May 2012 10:31pm (GMT)

 
Subject : petrol pump
I'm wanting to know how to dismantle a 1993 4x4 Nissan Terrano petrol
pump please anyone.

Bruce
papakura, Auckland, NZ - Tue 22nd May 2012 09:09am (GMT)
  • Subject : petrol pump
    What type of petrol pump are we discussing? In tank electric, in line
    electric, on engine mechanical?
    The electric ones are usually
    throwaways, the mechanical ones may be as well if the halves of the
    body of the pump are riveted rather than bolted together.
    What are
    the symptoms shown by the pump????

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Sat 26th May 2012 10:34pm (GMT)

 
Subject : nissan navara d22
I have a Nissan Navara d22 engine 2004, the engine has recently been
overhauled, due to knocking. The engine was reassembled and the Head
gasket was replaced, problems then started with air bubbles in coolant
system. Engine was dismantled, cylinder head pressure tested and
skimmed. Block tested and skimmed. Nissan head gasket. new head bolts,
and the air bubbles are still there. What else can be done.

colette kerlin
omagh, tyrone, UK - Thu 17th May 2012 05:09pm (GMT)
  • Subject : nissan navara d22
    Let's discuss the nature of the bubbles. Is it a stream of large
    bubbles that appears at the filler neck of the radiator? Is the engine
    hard to start after being left overnight or for longer periods? Is
    there a large cloud of steam coming out of the tailpipe on starting?
    Does the overflow reservoir get emptied by the bubbles pushing coolant
    out? Is the engine overheating?
    How much coolant are you losing
    after how many miles?
    Have you given the new coolant enough time
    (say a week of driving) to "settle down" and thrash all the air out of
    the new water..just keep topping it up with coolant mix until it
    stabilises.
    Have you checked the water pump for seal leaks, is the
    radiator leak free, have you replaced the thermostat and the radiator
    hoses? What caused you to have to redo the head gasket etc in the
    first place?

    Doug
    UK - Sat 26th May 2012 10:42pm (GMT)

  • Subject : nissan navara d22
    had same problem mine was cracked head;it should throw out some water
    out of radiator when head is cracked

    vince brizzi
    cheshunt, vic, aust - Wed 19th December 2012 06:08am (GMT)

 
Subject : Help with Terrano model mayhem
Hi, hope you can help, as am looking at a 1998 Nissan Terrano R3M-R
(petrol engine/manual) and have looked everywhere else I could think
of for specs and reviews to no avail.

Is it identical to the
Pathfinder just with a different name for a different market and what
does the R3M-R designation relate to: the engine or the trim?

Peter
- UK - Wed 16th May 2012 08:30pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Help with Terrano model mayhem
    Just had a google search and a lot of american reviews came up
    .wickapedia has bit of history on the model . This site has heaps of
    info if you spend the time searching . We have a diesel r3mr . has
    been a great 4x4 . Think the petrol engines are good but a bit hard on
    fuel but so is any other petrol 4x4 .good luck

    steve
    ashburton, nz - Thu 17th May 2012 07:51am (GMT)

    • Subject : Help with Terrano model mayhem
      thanks Steve, i will keep on googling. what year is your r3mr and how
      would you compare its off-road performance for example versus a toyota
      4runner/surf for example how is the ground clearance compared to other
      4wds?

      Peter
      UK - Thu 17th May 2012 08:25am (GMT)

      • Subject : Help with Terrano model mayhem
        ours is a 97 jap inport with an intercooled 3.2 turbo diesel engine.
        . There are heaps of them over here in nz . We have done a fair bit of
        off road work in ours over the last 3 years with all sorts of 4wd
        vechicles . The terrano is no toyota landcruiser or nissan patrol ,
        but fairs well with the surfs and 4 runners . My brother has a toyota
        prado landcruiser and it would also be a more capable 4x4 than the
        terrano . Ground clearance is ok as we have just put heavy duty
        springs and shocks in the rear and has trasformed the handling and
        givin a slight lift . We could of gone for a 2 inch lift all round but
        the heavy duty springs lifted it enough for our needs . the front is
        ok for clearence and the transfercase and gearbox are well tucked
        under the body . Value for money over here the terrano would be nearly
        half the price as a surf or 4runner ,Would love the power of the v6
        though ,

        steve
        nz - Thu 17th May 2012 10:53am (GMT)

 
Subject : nissan navarra automatic transmission viscosity code
hi

i have one unit nissan navarra i wanted to change my
automatic transmission fluid but the casa dont have do any one can
suugest for an alternative tnx

ryan chiu
cebu , philippines , UK - Sat 12th May 2012 04:45am (GMT)
 
Subject : steering box leak
1995 mistral....Small leak from the sector shaft seal. I have been
told that in order to rectify this I need to have the whole box recond
at $650 plus.I cannot see why I cannot just replace the seal? I have
seen this done on other makes on utube and feel capable of carring out
the repair.Anybody out there done this? The vehivle has only travelled
138,000 KMs so would not expect wear in the shaft itself. Cheers Tom

Tom
auckland, new zealand - Thu 10th May 2012 04:23am (GMT)
  • Subject : steering box leak
    Tom, go for it. Even if you stuff up, which I don't believe will
    happen, a second hand box has got to be less than %650. I have never
    seen one offered for sale on trademe, that is how little they break
    down...

    John
    NZ - Sat 26th May 2012 10:47pm (GMT)

    • Subject : steering box leak
      Yeah going to give it a try.I can get e second hand box for $170.Just
      got to see if I can get the seal from Nissan.Thanks for your
      encouragement and glad to see you on line again John

      tom
      auckland, NZ - Wed 30th May 2012 04:31am (GMT)

 
Subject : finding lower wishbone (control)arm nissan d22 1998 pickup
Subject : Subject : finding lower wishbone
hi,am trying to source
a right hand lower wishbone(control)arm for my suspension,its a nissan
d22 1998 pickup.any help would be well appreciated,many thanks
billy
billy mclean
cadiar, granada, spain - Thu 03rd May 2012
09:59pm (GMT)
hi,am trying to source a right hand lower
wishbone(control)arm for my suspension,its a nissan d22 1998
pickup.any help would be well appreciated,many thanks billy
billy
mclean
cadiar, granada, spain - Thu 03rd May 2012 09:59pm (GMT)

Billy
- Spain - Sat 05th May 2012 05:41am (GMT)
 
Subject : electric folding wing mirrors, nissan terrano mistrel auto
can anyone tell me where the fuse is located for the electric fold in
mirrors, i have looked in the fuse box under the steering wheel and
under the bonet and it does not say. can anyone help me with this
problem please as they dont seem to work thanks.

David
broadway, worcestershire, UK - Sun 22nd April 2012 02:08pm (GMT)
  • Subject : finding lower wishbone
    hi,am trying to source a right hand lower wishbone(control)arm for my
    suspension,its a nissan d22 1998 pickup.any help would be well
    appreciated,many thanks billy

    billy mclean
    cadiar, granada, spain - Thu 03rd May 2012 09:59pm (GMT)

 
Subject : wing mirrors
NISSAN TERRANO MISTREL 1994 AUTO
can anyone tell me where the fuse
is located for the electric fold in mirrors, i have looked in the fuse
box under the steering wheel and under the bonet and it does not say.
can anyone help me with this problem please as they dont seem to work
thanks.

David
broadway, worcestershire, UK - Sun 22nd April 2012 12:57pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : wing mirrors
    If you can't find the fuse by looking at the schematic on the fuse box
    lid, then your best bet is to buy a cheap digital multimeter (or use a
    test lamp) and check by using the red lead on the top and bottom of
    the fuses as seen from outside the fuse boxes. If you look closely
    you will see a small, exposed piece of the fuse, top and bottom,able
    to be touched with the probe leads without withdrawing the plastic
    fuse. Put the black lead on the chassis somewhere, and check for 12
    volts, top and bottom (with the ignition key turned to "on".)
    12
    volts on one end but not the other means a dud fuse.....
    It's the
    only way to be certain as sometimes blown blade fuses can be hard to
    spot by visual inspection.

    Doug
    UK - Sun 22nd April 2012 09:21pm (GMT)

 
Subject : Nissan WD21 1990 Terrano
Hi is anyone able to explain how to adjust or disconnect the speed
alert on my speedometer. Nothing in the manual. Thank you

jo
Bingil Bay, QLD, Australia - Tue 17th April 2012 07:35am (GMT)
  • Subject : Nissan WD21 1990 Terrano
    where do i conect the hose from the air change cooler too?
    tau tony
    port moresby, papua new guinea - Fri 18th May 2012 06:03am (GMT)

    • Subject : Nissan WD21 1990 Terrano
      You will have to give us some more clues as to what part of the
      vehicle you are referring????

      Doug
      UK - Mon 04th June 2012 12:39pm (GMT)

  • Subject : Nissan WD21 1990 Terrano
    I Want to know about Timining chain installation and timing marks of
    it

    kamarulnidzam
    Nilai, N. Sembilan, Malaysia - Wed 27th June 2012 07:45am (GMT)

    • Subject : Nissan WD21 1990 Terrano
      Sorry, I have only just noticed your email tagged onto this
      discussion. I might be better to have started a new line of
      discussion.
      You did not specify petrol or diesel engine? the
      diesel has cogs, one on the front of the crankshaft, one on the
      camshaft and one on the fuel injection; they are inter meshed so there
      is no chain, but there are timing marks on the cogs.

      Doug
      UK - Wed 25th July 2012 09:57am (GMT)

 
Subject :
do the Nissan YD25DDTi engine 174 hp and the YD25DDTi 190 hp use the
same oil filter and fuel filter???
thank you

kevinm henry
- UK - Tue 17th April 2012 04:23am (GMT)
  • Subject : Re :
    Ask a Nissan parts dealer
    Doug
    UK - Tue 17th April 2012 06:27am (GMT)

 
Subject : Fuel Consumption For a Nissan Terrano VG33 Petrol
Hi i recently changed my water pump for my Nissan Terrano VG33 Petrol
propelled.Before changing the pump it was running at 10km/Litre and
now after changing it is running at 6km/Litre.What could be the
problem.Thanks. Muleya Kizito Zambia.

Muleya Kizito
Kaoma, Werstern, Zambia - Sun 08th April 2012 01:46pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : Fuel Consumption For a Nissan Terrano VG33 Petrol
    Why did you change the water pump?
    Doug
    UK - Sun 08th April 2012 09:14pm (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Re : Fuel Consumption For a Nissan Terrano VG33 Petrol
      I changed my water pump becos it was leaking from the vulve and heated
      the engen until it automticaly stoped.The water,oil and air did not
      seem to have mixed so i ruled out gasket problem and just changed the
      water pump.do you think it is the belts or the gasket?

      muleya kizito
      Kaoma, Zambia, Zambia - Thu 12th April 2012 10:12pm (GMT)

      • Subject : Re : Re : Re : Fuel Consumption For a Nissan Terrano VG33 Petrol
        I think you have cooked the motor. I would first check that there is
        no head gasket problem by checking the pressurisation of the radiator
        with a tester that pumps air in, and should hold at a certain pressure
        for a long time if there are no leaks.
        Then replace the thermostat
        if you have not already done so, and replace the temperature sensors
        which will also have gotten very hot, perhaps hot enough to destroy
        them.
        The temperature sensors tell the engine computer how hot the
        cooling system is: the fact that you are using much more fuel leads me
        to believe that the sensors are toast, and will need replacement.

        The computer thinks the engine is cold, and therefore tells the
        fuel injectors to stay open longer which uses more fuel.
        Good
        luck...

        Doug
        UK - Fri 13th April 2012 08:37am (GMT)

 
Subject : 2000 Nissan Pathfinder/Terrano lefthand dashboard
Could anybody help me find 2000 model Nissan Pathfinder/Terrano Turbo
diesel lefthand drive complete dashboard with console.thanks for our
help in advance

Prince
Sydney, Nsw, Australia - Sun 01st April 2012 10:11pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : 2000 Nissan Pathfinder/Terrano lefthand dashboard
    Amazingly, you have had this query answered once
    before.
    Logically, you would expect to find a left hand dashboard
    in a left hand steer country.
    This would be the US in all
    probability.
    Read the previous answer.

    Doug
    UK - Mon 02nd April 2012 06:10am (GMT)

 
Subject : 2000 Nissan Pathfinder/Terrano lefthand dashboard
Could anybody help me find 2000 model Nissan Pathfinder/Terrano Turbo
diesel lefthand drive complete dashboard with console.thanks for our
help in advance

Prince
Sydney, Nsw, Australia - Sun 01st April 2012 10:11pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : 2000 Nissan Pathfinder/Terrano lefthand dashboard
    Amazingly, you have had this query answered once
    before.
    Logically, you would expect to find a left hand dashboard
    in a left hand steer country.
    This would be the US in all
    probability.
    Read the previous answer.

    Doug
    UK - Mon 02nd April 2012 06:10am (GMT)

 
Subject : stalling
My 2004 Nissan Frontier XE 4x4 crewcab, automatic has started to surge
when attempting to climb steep grades in the rough, although it never
had this problem on the same roads. could this be caused by a problem
in the transmission?

Jeremy
- Jamaica west indies - Wed 28th March 2012 03:44am (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : stalling
    Stalling is the engine stopping, or the revs dropping so low as to
    cause the vehicle to stop moving.
    Surging is an engine
    accelerating and dec elerating without input by the driver.
    Do you
    have a fly-by-wire throttle system which uses a potentiometer instead
    of a physical cable attachment of the accelerator pedal to the
    throttle body/injection pump to control the engine speed?
    If so it
    could well be that there is a break in the wire; as the truck bounces
    over rough ground the wire flexes and "makes and breaks" contact
    causing a drop then a rise in engine revs...
    Check trouble codes
    on your computer; physically check wires from potentiometer at pedal
    to computer; check potentiometer for worn spots as well.

    Doug
    UK - Wed 28th March 2012 07:52am (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Re : stalling
      the left hand engine mount is broken and the inlet air hose also, and
      that is the problem, but thanks anyway

      Jeremy
      Jamaica WI - Thu 29th March 2012 12:17am (GMT)

      • Subject : Re : Re : Re : stalling
        Good to see the faults have been found. The broken engine mount meant
        the engine was flopping around jerking the throttle, and the air
        intake was letting in unmetered air?

        Doug
        UK - Thu 29th March 2012 09:39am (GMT)

 
Subject : nissan terrano II
Hi i have a 1998 terrano II 2.7td. My temperature gauge goes sky high
and heater blows cold air. The header tank still has water in it. I
fill up the radiator and it seems fine again for about 10 days.Can't
see an obvious hole etc. Any ideas what this can be pls. (just changed
thermostat few weeks before this problem started).

sharon turner
glasgow, UK - Thu 22nd March 2012 01:55pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : nissan terrano II
    Hi:If your thermostat is facing in the right direction and there are
    no visible water leaks around the engine I would look at a possible
    heater core leak which is a bit harder to detect. If that checks out
    chances are you might have an air lock in your cooling system
    preventing proper water flow or a partially blocked radiator causing a
    similar effect. If after running the engine you notice a marked
    difference in temperature between the upper and lower radiator hoses,
    one or all of the above might apply. Try not to run an overheating
    engine for too long as they can only stand so much heat before
    breaking.
    Good luck

    Bill
    Australia - Thu 22nd March 2012 11:40pm (GMT)

  • Subject : Re : nissan terrano II
    If there was no overheating before the change of thermostat, and the
    overheating started after the new thermostat was put in, then
    something probably has happened to the new thermostat.
    New
    thermostats can be "duds" right off the shelf.
    Did you buy one
    direct from a Nissan dealer?
    The Nissan supplied ones are far
    larger in the opening than one bought from elsewhere.
    And the
    Nissan one cannot physically be fitted upside-down either.
    If the
    engine overheated badly forcing you to replace the thermostat, then
    you haven't fixed the original problem which caused the engine to
    overheat.
    So what happened to make you change the thermostat?????

    Doug
    Codswallop, UK - Sat 24th March 2012 10:30am (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Re : nissan terrano II
      changed thermostat as no heat. found out the problem need a new water
      pump.

      sharon turner
      glasgow, UK - Sat 24th March 2012 07:20pm (GMT)

      • Subject : Re : Re : Re : nissan terrano II
        Sharon, good to hear that the problem has been spotted.
        While the
        pump is being changed:

        1, Renew all the V belts and check,
        preferably replace,the bearing in the tensioner of the air
        conditioning belt.

        2. Replace the top and bottom radiator
        hoses, and if you can find them, the heater hoses.

        3. Also
        fill the cooling system with the best anti-freeze you can
        find.

        This will ensure no more problems in this area for
        another 50,000 km.

        Doug
        UK - Sun 25th March 2012 02:00am (GMT)

 
Subject : Nissan Mistral 4X4
Hi,I have a 1994 nissan mistral.Just lately while I was driving it
started to overheat and when I checked one of the hoses was leaking.I
waited for a while for it to kool down topped up with water and drove
slowly to get to my home keeping an eye on the temp gauge, but
suddenly the engine stopped and would start.The water seemed to be
dryed up and the temp gauge needle was about in the middle.Had to tow
it to my place and the next morning I tried starting the car after
feeling the radiator with water to check if the engine is dead or not,
and it starts but as soon as I leave my foot off the accelerator it
turns off.
Can anyone please help me what i have to do or replace
to put my car back on the road??cheers

hayden Khushal
Auckland, Auckland, New Zealand - Wed 14th March 2012 01:07am (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : Nissan Mistral 4X4
    I would say you have cooked the motor. It may be cheaper in the long
    run to replace the motor with a second hand one from a wrecker. See
    many previous posts on this forum for FAQs re overheating etc.
    If
    someone is reading this and they do not know how old their radiator
    and heater hoses are, I suggest spending the money and replacing them
    NOW before this happens to you.
    While you are at it, replace the
    thermostat with a genuine Nissan one. See many previous FAQ on this
    forum about that, too.
    PS It's a;so not ridiculous to take the
    radiator out and have it rodded through by a good radiator shop once
    every 15 years or so if you don't use good antifreeze at all
    times.


    Doug
    UK - Wed 14th March 2012 03:49am (GMT)

  • Subject : Nissan Mistral 4X4
    i expeience delay in transmission after a short circuit in my
    automatic nissan mistral 4X4, diesel machine. any help/ideas?

    Kapov
    Kitwe, Zambia, Zambia - Fri 31st August 2012 02:49pm (GMT)

 
Subject : Terrano 2 2.7D 1995 Heater blower
The slide control for the blower only switches the blower on when it
reaches position 4. It worked fine at all speeds but then suddenly
stopped but for the top speed. Could this be a relay(s) problem or
the switch?

John
PRESTON, Lancs, UK - Thu 08th March 2012 10:33am (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : Terrano 2 2.7D 1995 Heater blower
    Neither; it is the resistor which controls the voltage reaching the
    motor.Only on 4 is there no resistor, the voltage is a full 12 volts,
    which is why it works.
    Replace the resistor; follow the wires
    leading away from the blower motor to a small block usually on the air
    housing; undo the screws, withdraw the unit, remove the electrical
    plug, replace the unit; bob's your uncle....

    Doug
    UK - Thu 08th March 2012 07:25pm (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Re : Terrano 2 2.7D 1995 Heater blower
      Found it thanks. It wasn't burnt out. As it's in the air duct, moist
      air over they years had caused a rusty contact. I opened up the
      resistor, cleaned the rusty bit, applied some copper grease and put it
      back; it's working fine. I spotted a resistor on eBay but tye want
      £85!! Cheers

      John
      PRESTON, Lancs, UK - Fri 09th March 2012 05:35pm (GMT)

 
Subject : Terrano 2 TD2.7
I have a 95 Terrano 11 SWB. The interior light has been playing up. In
the year which I've had the car, the light has gone on and off when
any door is opened/closed. On Friday I gave the car a good clean which
meant leaving the doors open for a couple of hours. The light then
went off when the engine was started but started flashing at about 1
second intervals. With the engine off, the light eventually came back
on with the doors either open or shut. I put the lamp in the off
postion to avoid flattening the battery overnight. I tried the lamp in
the door position again yesterday and now it's back to on/off with the
doors. Is there a timer delay system (I've seen replacement timers on
eBay) and if so could this be the source of the problem? Also where is
the delay unit located in the car?

John
PRESTON, Lancs, UK - Tue 06th March 2012 06:03pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : Terrano 2 TD2.7
    There is a time delay unit and it's located behind the driver's side
    kick panel. It is one unit with the central locking controller and
    worth an arm and a leg brand new. You're very lucky the interior light
    is working again.
    Cheers

    Bill
    Australia - Tue 06th March 2012 07:33pm (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Re : Terrano 2 TD2.7
      Found it! The one behind the driver's side kick panel is the main
      ECU. I found the lamp timer behind the passenger side panel; a
      replacement is on its way via eBay so we wait to see if it solves the
      problem

      John
      PRESTON, Lancs, UK - Thu 08th March 2012 10:19am (GMT)

      • Subject : Re : Re : Re : Terrano 2 TD2.7
        My car is a rhd model but I could not find the timer by the electronic
        manual it seems like the Australian editions of the Terrano have
        slightly different electrics. In my case the e.c.u. sits behind the
        radio. I assumed that your car would be the same as mine being also
        r.h.d. I hope I didn't slow you down.
        Cheers.

        Bill
        Australia - Thu 08th March 2012 07:29pm (GMT)

        • Subject : Re : Re : Re : Re : Terrano 2 TD2.7
          Not at all. I'm guesing it's the ECU behind the driver's kick panel
          as I've seen the same unit on ebay described as an ECU. It took me
          less than 5 mins to find it on the other side. The replacement
          arrived today, it's fitted and there's now a delay on the interior
          lamp! It works on the driver's dooor only; the passenger and tailgate
          switch it on and off immediately. I expect that how it's supposed to
          work. Thanks for you help, Cheers

          John
          PRESTON, Lancs, UK - Fri 09th March 2012 04:33pm (GMT)

          • Subject : Re : Re : Re : Re : Re : Terrano 2 TD2.7
            My car is a '97 model LWB and each door switch,including the
            tailgate,triggers the delay for the interior light however the
            indicator light on the dash goes off immediately after closing the
            doors.
            Cheers

            Bill
            Australia - Fri 09th March 2012 10:27pm (GMT)

 
Subject : Mr
Hi I have a 1998 2.7 terrano and on a full lock it squeals and the
steering judders any suggestions please

Thank you

Mike
Lydney, Gloucestershire, UK - Thu 01st March 2012 11:19am (GMT)
  • Subject :
    At full lock the steering hits the stops, give these a smear of
    grease. Note that there are 2 each side.Worked for me.

    tom
    Auckland, New Zealand - Thu 01st March 2012 08:06pm (GMT)

  • Subject : Re : Mr
    When you say "squeals"; does the squeal occur only when you get right
    at the end of the steering wheel travel.. because if the v belt is
    loose it will squeal when the steering cannot force the steering
    linkage any further.
    If you have just replaced the v belt with a
    new one, re tension it.
    If it is an old belt,Replace it, and if
    you are going to do that replace all three V belts as it is just about
    as much work for three as one. and believe me, if the air con belt
    starts squealing you will have to remove the other two anyway to
    replace it.

    The steering stops as described above "grunt"
    when the suspension moves up and down when the wheel is at hard lock
    e.g. going over bumps or kerbs; the stops as described used to have a
    plastic coating; with age this wears off causing metal to metal groans
    and grunts, a lick of grease does wonders.

    Doug
    - UK - Fri 02nd March 2012 04:03am (GMT)

  • Subject : Re : Mr
    Another thought: is there sufficient fluid in the reservoir? Is it a
    nice bright clear colour? It used to be that power steering fluid was
    just Auto trans fluid, and that used to be nice bright pink. Nowadays
    it could be any colour, but if it is not nice and clean, then it is
    time to replace it, flushing out the old and putting in the new,
    whatever it's colour.
    Test it on a piece of tissue paper or a
    paper towel, you'll soon see if it is dirty.
    This can also cause
    problems in the power steering.

    Doug
    - UK - Fri 02nd March 2012 08:23am (GMT)

  • Subject : Re : Mr
    do you mean the tyres squeals i had this problem it turned out to be a
    compression rod on the lower wishbone that had snapped so i would
    advice to check these

    richard
    alfreton, derbyshire, UK - Mon 12th March 2012 04:23pm (GMT)

 
Subject : update
Hi Doug,Yes my motor is same as the one
herehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan_Terrano_II
.Thanks for
your time.

adam
colne, lancs, UK - Wed 29th February 2012 12:16pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : update
    Adam,
    As has been stated here many times before, this is when you
    use a friendly Nissan dealer spare parts department..

    " You
    know the driver's side/offside front torsion bar on a 1998, is it the
    same part number and spec as that on a 1993?"
    "It is, how
    wonderful, thanks"

    Doug
    UK - Wed 29th February 2012 04:11pm (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Re : update
      Thank you very much for that Doug.I did try a couple of nissan dealers
      but they only tried to sell me original part.

      adam
      barnoldswick, lancs, UK - Wed 29th February 2012 06:18pm (GMT)

      • Subject : Re : Re : Re : update
        Go to the Parts Department and talk nicely with the man at the
        Counter.
        They usually find it difficult to piss about when you
        front in person.

        Be persistent..it is your money....

        Doug
        UK - Thu 01st March 2012 06:42am (GMT)

 
Subject : 93 terrano 98 terrano
Does anyone know if a torsion bar from a 93 terrano will fit a 98
terrano.one hundred and eighty pounds plus from dealers for new one.

adam
barnoldswick, lancs, UK - Tue 28th February 2012 04:00pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : 93 terrano 98 terrano
    Can you please look at this article and confirm that this is the model
    Terrano you mean 1.e.
    R50?

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan_Pathfinder

    Doug
    UK - Wed 29th February 2012 09:15am (GMT)

  • Subject : Re : 93 terrano 98 terrano
    Or, are we talking about this
    model?

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan_Terrano_II

    Doug
    - UK - Wed 29th February 2012 09:21am (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Re : 93 terrano 98 terrano
      Hi, Thanks for reply and sorry for not giving people enough
      information.My motor is a 98 terrano 11, 2.7 diesel 3door shortwheel
      base. with intercooler.

      adam
      barnoldswick, lancs, UK - Wed 29th February 2012 10:45am (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Re : 93 terrano 98 terrano
      Hi Doug,Yes my motor is same as the one
      herehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan_Terrano_II
      .Thanks for
      your time.
      adam
      colne, lancs, UK - Wed 29th February 2012
      12:16pm (GMT)

      adam
      barnoldswick, colne, UK - Wed 29th February 2012 12:18pm (GMT)

 
Subject : Thermostat
Just fitted new thermostat to nissan teranno 2.7 diesel now needle at
top of gauge. Bottom hose cold. ?? is it airlock??

neil
faversham, kent, UK - Thu 23rd February 2012 05:36pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : Thermostat
    It most probably is an air lock providing that the valve side of the
    thermostat is pointing towards the bottom of the engine. Also when
    filling up the radiator leave the fastening of the top hose,at the
    water neck, till last until you see a steady flow of coolant coming
    out of it and the heater temperature control should be at max heat
    during the operation to avoid air pockets in the heater
    circuit.
    Good luck

    Bill
    Australia - Thu 23rd February 2012 10:11pm (GMT)

 
Subject : wiring diragram
I have a 1991 nissan terrano and i am after the wiring diragram for
under the bonnet

colleen biggs
bundaberg, qld, australia - Tue 21st February 2012 03:37am (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : wiring diragram
    If you have the Nissan Mistral or R20 you are in luck
    at:

    http://bebrs.pie-dabas.net/Webs/Terrano/R20/fwd.pdf


    If you have the Japanese import WD21 like I have, this will give
    you a start in the right direction.

    Otherwise, as discussed
    many many times before, only Nissan or an auto sparky may be able to
    help.

    What symptoms has the wee beastie got that require
    delving intro the wiring?

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Wed 29th February 2012 04:26pm (GMT)

 
Subject : Nissan Terrano Rm3
I have a Nissan Terrano Rm3, and I urgently need to found out what the
part numbers are for the wheel bearings. Nissan South Africa are
useless and tell me the vehicle is an import and they cant help me...
I would sincerely appreciate it if I can get a copy of the rest of the
part numbers I may require for the up keep and maintanence of this
vehicle.

Douglas Burns
Cape Town, South Africa - Fri 17th February 2012 01:36pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : Nissan Terrano Rm3
    Would it be more useful to have the dimensions of the bearings so you
    can buy Timken, or SKF, or whatever is available in your neck of the
    woods???
    In fact try phoning a bearing seller and see if he has
    the world wide listings.

    Doug
    UK - Mon 20th February 2012 07:23am (GMT)

 
Subject : Mechanic
Could somebody help me find 2000 Nissan Pathfinder/ Terrano lefthand
drive Dashboard assemble

Prince
Sydney, Nsw, Australia - Tue 14th February 2012 08:51pm (GMT)
 
Subject : Mechanic
Could somebody help me find 2000 Nissan Pathfinder/ Terrano lefthand
drive Dashboard assemble

Prince
Sydney, Nsw, Australia - Tue 14th February 2012 08:46pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : Mechanic
    Can I suggest that you start looking in the
    USA?
    E.G.
    http://www.used-car-parts-exchange.com/interior/niss
    an-pathfinder-store.html

    PS is the problem one where the
    speedo doesn't work/rev counter doesn't work/ slamming hand on top of
    dash sometimes makes it work?

    If so. it is known problem, can
    sometimes be fixed, otherwise another dash and crossed fingers is the
    only solution

    John
    NZ - Wed 29th February 2012 04:54pm (GMT)

 
Subject : INSTALLATION OF 6.2" DVD/GPS IN NISSAN TERRANO II
hello, i have a Nissan Terrano II and i want to buy and install
DVD/GPS touch screen (6.2 Inch) But the space for the DVD/GPS is (3
Inch).no additional space.can you advice me on what i can do to make
it compatible.If i will have to change the dash i will or any other
thing i will have to buy to change the patten of my dash so that the
DVD can be installed. thanks Derek.

Derek
Takoradi, Ghana - Tue 14th February 2012 05:49pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : INSTALLATION OF 6.2
    I have 2000Nissan pathfinder/ Terrano n looking for Complete Dashboard
    Assemble. If u want to sell ours,kindly let me know

    Prince kobina
    Sydney, NSW, Australia - Tue 14th February 2012 09:01pm (GMT)

  • Subject : Re : INSTALLATION OF 6.2
    I have 2000Nissan pathfinder/ Terrano n looking for Complete Dashboard
    Assemble. If u want to sell ours,kindly let me know

    Prince kobina
    Sydney, NSW, Australia - Wed 15th February 2012 07:34pm (GMT)

 
Subject : Nissan Terrano
Does a 2.7 litre front prop shaft fit a 3 litre Nissan Terrano?
John Procter
Dumfries, D and G, UK - Mon 13th February 2012 02:37pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : Nissan Terrano
    You'd like to think it would, if the other running gear is the same it
    would make sense. The only way to find out is either get the Nissan
    Parts man to acknowledge that it is; or to measure one in situ before
    buying it..take the old one into the wrecker and compare it on the
    vehicle...

    Doug
    UK - Thu 01st March 2012 06:45am (GMT)

 
Subject : How to improve air con
I have an ex-UK Nissan Terrano II 2004 2.7TD imported to Mozambique
which runs fine but the air con is not uo to the job of the African
heat. Is there any advice on upgrading it to deliver a colder air
stream? I don't think there's anything wrong with it, it just isn't
enough to deal with local conditions here. Any advice very welcome.

gary allport
Maputo, Mozambique - Thu 09th February 2012 07:00pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : How to improve air con
    Keeping the a/c condenser fins clear for good air flow and a working
    condenser fan would go a long way in helping the system.Also isolating
    the heater core,inside the car,by fitting water taps on the two hoses
    servicing the heater core will get rid of a big heat source in the
    cabin compartment. You could easily turn them back on in the
    cold.
    Cheers

    Bill
    Australia - Thu 09th February 2012 10:30pm (GMT)

  • Subject : Re : How to improve air con
    Make sure that the refrigerant in the system is the right one, and
    that it has has the correct amount of liquid plus lubricant.
    I
    like the idea of isolating the heater matrix with cut off tap
    valves.
    Perhaps tint the windows of the vehicle to reflect as much
    heat as possible?

    Codswallop
    - UK - Fri 10th February 2012 09:19am (GMT)

 
Subject : nissan mistral
Almost same question as last post. How do I put nissan mistral 1994
into 4wd. Cant get hold of owners manual anywhere. Help please.

ken
coventry, west midlands, UK - Sat 04th February 2012 09:25pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : nissan mistral
    Read previous posts. This FAQ keeps popping up every year or so. It
    has been answered every year or so.

    Fred
    UK - Sat 04th February 2012 09:37pm (GMT)

 
Subject : timing chain
hi, can any body help please could any body tell me if it is a timing
chain or a belt on my nissan terrano 2.7 tdi n - reg 1995 3 door LX
and can any one tell me were i can get a window winding handle for the
drivers door, thanks for any help.

Andrew
wakefield, west yorkshire, UK - Sat 04th February 2012 09:24pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : timing chain
    There is no timing chain or timing belt.
    There is a cog drive from
    the crankshaft to the camshaft and the injector pump. Then there are
    push rods up to the overhead rockers which push the valves.
    That
    is part of the reason these engines last forever if basic maintenance
    is kept up, e.g. fresh oil and oil filters, refreshed coolant and
    thermostats.
    There is nothing nasty like belts or timing chains to
    snap, fray, wear out or adjust.

    Re the handles, a wrecker is
    the place to look.

    Fred
    UK - Sat 04th February 2012 09:34pm (GMT)

 
Subject : 4 wheel drive
how do i put my nissan teranno 2.7 tdi 1995 n-reg in to 4 wheel drive
andrew
wakefield, west yorkshire, UK - Sat 04th February 2012 08:17pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : 4 wheel drive
    Look at and read the previous posts. This FAQ occurs each year and is
    answered each year. For some reason the answer doesn't vary each
    year. By reading this discussion forum from end to end you will gain a
    huge amount of knowledge about your Nissan which will stand you in
    good stead for the future and may save you a large expense or two.

    Before you get into trouble, please go to your local library and
    read a book or two about 4WDriving.
    Joining a club is also a good
    idea, and finding a friend or two who also have a 4wd makes sense,
    because the minimum number of vehicles in a 4wd party should be 2, and
    at any time 3 is preferred.
    When you get stuck really well, you
    need two vehicles of the same size to pull you out of mud because the
    suction effect of mud on the underside of the vehicle triples it's
    perceived weight, and only one tow vehicle will not budge
    you.
    Spending decent money on rated tow points properly installed
    front and rear, KERR (kinetic energy recovery rope), rated shackles,
    etc etc are wise investments before you touch that 4wd
    lever.....
    But all these things are discussed in the
    books.
    Read it and you will be less likely to weep.

    Fred
    UK - Sat 04th February 2012 09:52pm (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Re : 4 wheel drive
      thanks mate for that i have had a lot of 4x4s i have had a pajero,
      maverick, 2 discoverys, landrover 90, and they all went in to 4 wheel
      drive first time but this one i have only had for a few weeks now the
      swon has come i have tryed allsorts to get it in 4 wheel drive but no
      can any one help please, thanks for your help!

      andrew
      wakefield, west yorkshire, UK - Sun 05th February 2012 02:58pm (GMT)

      • Subject : Re : Re : Re : 4 wheel drive
        sorry my spelling is not too good i should have put snow not "swon"
        any way its the white stuff that makes you slide when you only have 2
        wheel drive.

        andrew
        wakefield, west yorkshire, UK - Sun 05th February 2012 03:03pm (GMT)

        • Subject : Re : Re : Re : Re : 4 wheel drive
          I presume you have a lever in the cab to select 4WD? And that you have
          selected either high or low 4WD? and that it does not appear to be
          working? Therefore there are a few things to check.
          The first
          would be the linkage under the vehicle to make sure that the lever is
          actually moving the linkage fully allowing the selection of the gear
          ratio..some people never use the linkage and it gets so much crud and
          rust that it seizes up. While you are under there, grab hold of the
          front driveshaft and twist it by hand, with the ratio selector in 2wd.
          If the auto hubs are working, you should be able to hear them click in
          and out when you twist the driveshaft one way then the other. Then put
          the selector in 4wd hign and try to twist the shaft. If your selector
          lever is not working you will be able to twist the shaft easily, if
          your gear selector is working, it will be difficult.
          The next
          thing is to disassemble the auto locking hubs (which I suspect will be
          the culprits) and lubricate them or replace them either with another
          set of auto-locking hubs or manual lockers.
          The autos work fine as
          long as you exercise them properly about once per month all year
          round. Unlike Landrovers etc Nissans do not bathe in oil, and these
          hubs will seize up through lack of exercise as well.
          I hope this
          helps

          Fred
          UK - Sun 05th February 2012 09:14pm (GMT)

          • Subject : Re : Re : Re : Re : Re : 4 wheel drive
            thanks mate i will try to do that when i get some time, ps yes it has
            a small leaver in the cab and auto free hubs, thanks for the help.
            andy

            andrew
            wakefield, west yorkshire, UK - Mon 06th February 2012 01:54pm (GMT)

 
Subject : Terrano 2.7
Hi I bought a 2.7 Diesel Terrano last night after covering about 120
miles it suddenly stopped on the motorway I filled it with diesel
before I left it has had a new battery fitted and I noticed a lead
from the top of the injector pump is disconnected but as the vehicle
started and stopped on the key ifigured that it was a heater element
or some kind of sensor. The mechanic who recovered the vehicle said it
was the stop slonoid and it had probably fallen apart and was blocking
fuel in the pump but he couldnt explain why the car stopped on the key
with the wire broken.
The car has not been used for almost a year
or so the lady I bought it from said. Please help as this is a real
pain in the arse I got home at 4am this morning and have spent a lot
of money so I need a speedy cheap fix.

Thank you

Mike
Lydney, Gloucestershire, UK - Sat 28th January 2012 09:23am (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : Terrano 2.7
    Let's tackle this logically; you have been told by a mechanic that the
    wire controlling the stop solenoid on the fuel pump has been
    disconnected.
    Ergo, the first thing to do is take the stop
    solenoid out and see if it is in one piece.
    If it has
    disintegrated and is stopping the injector pump from working (which is
    what "Stop" solenoids do when they activate, you have found the
    problem.
    Then you can but a new or second hand stop solenoid, and
    reconnect it, so that YOU control when the engine stops.
    This is
    particularly beneficial when accelerating out in front of large
    lorries at intersections.

    Drago
    UK - Sun 29th January 2012 01:03pm (GMT)

 
Subject : Terrano 2.4i
Can anybody tell me about changing the timing chain and tensioner on
my 2.4i petrol, my chain is very slack and rattles on start up ..many
thanks

Tim Brooksbank
Murcia, Spain - Wed 25th January 2012 08:37pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : Terrano 2.4i
    Are you sure that the cam chain tensioner has not worn out or fallen
    away from the chain?
    If it has, replacing that will, on it;s own,
    make a huge difference.
    And it's a lot simpler.
    Otherwise,
    best thing is to get a service manual..it will answer most questions
    and provide you with answers that you can study at your leisure.

    Drum
    Matsuake - Wed 25th January 2012 09:45pm (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Re : Terrano 2.4i
      Hi Drum thanks for the reply
      I have had the rocker box top off and
      the chain seems very slack, the chain seems to hit the wear guide
      easily which would explain the rattly noise. can't seem to see the
      chain tensioner, is it in view from just taking the rocker top off? It
      may explain why the chain is so slack as there is no tension being
      taken up. the chain and top sprocket look in good order. Can you just
      change the tensioner only without stripping every thing down.
      Its
      a 1998 128000km and all seems to run ok when hot but will have to sort
      it sooner than later. Tim

      Tim Brooksbank
      Murcia, Spain - Thu 26th January 2012 08:47am (GMT)

      • Subject : Re : Re : Re : Terrano 2.4i
        http://www.nissanforums.com/hb-truck/157698-timing-chain-rattle-start-
        up-when.html

        http://forums.nicoclub.com/ka24de-timing-chain-t
        ensioner-replacement-t65251.html

        http://forums.nicoclub.com/k
        a24de-timing-chain-guide-removal-precautions-instructions-t104485.html


        http://www.nissanoffroad.net/messageboard/index.php?topic=65
        7.0

        http://www.shopwiki.com/l/Nissan-Timing-Chain-Kit
        r>etc etc etc

        Drum
        UK - Thu 26th January 2012 09:24am (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Re : Terrano 2.4i
      This may or may not be
      true

      http://www.nissanforum.org/nissan-forum/showthread.php?t
      =193

      Eddy
      - UK - Thu 26th January 2012 09:27am (GMT)

      • Subject : Re : Re : Re : Terrano 2.4i
        http://www.240sx.org/links/installs/timing_chain/index.html

        G
        ood luck....

        Drum
        here - Thu 26th January 2012 09:36am (GMT)

        • Subject : Re : Re : Re : Re : Terrano 2.4i
          Hi Drum I have read all the posts and a little confused with all the
          different type engine models.
          It seems to make sense that the
          noise goes away after 2-3 seconds as the oil pressure builds and the
          tensioner takes up the slack can it be as simple as using the wrong
          oil filter as the below thread sugests, i have just changed the oil
          and filter (not from main dealer)
          Thanks Tim

          (Nissan
          made a special oil filter for the Ka24(e) motor that has a special
          valve which keeps oil pressure to the tensioner so there is no noise
          at start up. As far as i know there is no other company that makes one
          besides nissan. Go buy a case of oil filters from nissan for your
          hardbody and the noise will go away. Some dealer parts really are
          "just better")

          Tim
          Spain - Thu 26th January 2012 06:24pm (GMT)

          • Subject : Re : Re : Re : Re : Re : Terrano 2.4i
            Tim, only one simple way to find out.
            Go buy the "right" filter
            from a Nissan agent, take the old one off, keep it, put the new one
            one, try it and see.

            Drum
            UK - Thu 26th January 2012 10:48pm (GMT)

            • Subject : Re : Re : Re : Re : Re : Re : Terrano 2.4i
              Hi Drum
              Will give it a go and let you know, although I would be
              interested to know if anybody else has come up against using the wrong
              oil filter, and am I right in thinking that the tensioner is
              controlled by oil pressure, some non/return valve maintaining that
              pressure at rest? and can I get at this tensioner without stripping
              the whole thing down, there seems to be a block of some sorts bolted
              on the housing looking like it could be in line with the chain on the
              outside under the distributor could this be connected with the
              tensioner? or is this the oil pump Thanks for the input I'm sure I
              will get there in the end.
              Tim

              Tim
              Spain - Fri 27th January 2012 10:21am (GMT)

 
Subject : no throttle
Hi i have a nissan terrano 2.7td 2001, every now and then there is no
power/throttle response you just carry on at the same speed but with
no throttle. like having no boost. if you switch the ignition off and
on again it comes back to life again. i have replaced the air flow
meter and electric throttle pedal. i suspect it to be electircal as as
soon as you switch it off and on its ok. poss relay??
any thoughts
grateful james

james nicholas
cheltenham, UK - Sat 21st January 2012 01:39pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : no throttle
    Subject : accelerator problem
    Hi, I have a Nissan Patrol 2004 3.0l
    & Im having problems with acceleration, every time I try to accelerate
    nothing happens & the revs drop down to idle & I then have to switch
    off & start again. But slow acceleration it seem to be OK sometimes.
    Im getting error "code 43 accel pos sensor" when diagnostics have been
    done. we change the accelerator pedal but with no luck. can any on
    HELP!!
    hassan
    Birmingham, West Midlands, UK - Sat 12th
    November 2011 11:49am (GMT)

    Subject : Re : accelerator
    problem
    the TPS Throttle Position Sensor isnot the accelerator
    pedal, it'd the rheostat that measures the position of the pedal i.e.
    how far into the floor you have the pedal.
    You would have to
    check by testing the resistance of the sensor as you move the
    pedal...to see if the resistance is an even curve from 0 to full
    open.
    The clue is that after you turn the engine off then on
    again, the symptom goes away.
    By turning the ignition off you
    are "rebooting" the computer.
    When the fault is sensed agai,
    the computer returns the engine to idle..which is a damn sight better
    than it going to full throttle, which in a fly by wire system is
    another alternative.....
    There is a problem, it is
    electrical.
    Fred
    very near Botswana, UK - Sat 12th
    November 2011 03:00pm (GMT)
    Subject : Re : Re :
    accelerator problem

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GBRJdzrGUA4


    http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h33.pdf


    UK -
    Sat 12th November 2011 03:10pm (GMT)
    Subject : Re : Re :
    accelerator problem
    Hi thanks for all your help. Its was
    an electrical problem(a broken wire), everything is work fine
    now.
    hassan
    birmingham, west midlands, UK -
    Fri 18th November 2011 08:41pm (GMT)

    Ed
    Upper Congo - Sat 21st January 2012 08:06pm (GMT)

 
Subject : Door Regulators
Please advise how can I obtain door regulators for all the four
(4)doors for RB 20 Model Nissan Mistral,7 passenger van -Automatic
vehicle ,4x4

Mohan Sharma
Suva, Fiji, Fiji - Tue 17th January 2012 10:14am (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : Door Regulators
    Use the internet to find car wreckers in any other country.Contact
    them by email. Arrange payment the way they want it paid. Receive
    goods in the mail.

    Ed
    Lower Congo - Wed 18th January 2012 09:44pm (GMT)

 
Subject : lugging at low RPM 1500
Hello everyone, my maverick 97 manual, 2.7 diesel is lugging at low
RPM, i'd say from 1300 to 1700. in any gear. but if i make a full
pedal then its not a much notable. at and after 2000 RPM all works OK,
i'd not say, lack of power out of 125 hp it has. i read almost all the
page and searched by diff words but cant find very similar situation
to it. please reply if any thoughts. fuel filters both main and bango
i understand but have not done it yet. i suspect it can be MAF or
anything else at very low loads. yes at very low loads. please keep in
mind. this lugging happens when i want to surf not run. thank you in
advance

Levan
Tbilisi, Georgia - Wed 30th November 2011 01:58am (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : lugging at low RPM 1500
    Change the fuel filter, clean the banjo filter,change the air filter,
    check for air leaks in tubing leading to and from air filter, turbo
    etc.

    Bruce
    Angola - Wed 30th November 2011 06:06pm (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Re : lugging at low RPM 1500
      thank you for prompt reply. i checked today all except of the fuel
      filters. i wonder the banjo bolt and filter in it is seen from top
      view, just under the power steering pump? is that one? hard to access.

      i still cant understand logically why on low load it is lugging
      and under heavy load all wokrs OK. hope to find a solution. thank you
      for your thoughts.

      Levan
      tbilisi, Georgia - Wed 30th November 2011 09:42pm (GMT)

      • Subject : Re : Re : Re : lugging at low RPM 1500
        I would also think that you might have a fuel flow problem and the
        engine only gets the required fuel to run properly under heavy
        acceleration. That banjo bolt is under the power steering pump and if
        that mesh filter is blocked-up it would be causing you grief. I would
        also look at the breather in the fuel tank cap which assists the fuel
        flow towards the engine.
        Just a couple of thoughts and i hope
        they help you.
        Good luck

        Bill
        Australia - Wed 30th November 2011 11:53pm (GMT)

        • Subject : Re : Re : Re : Re : lugging at low RPM 1500
          thank you Bill, with the tank breather easiest to do,so i'll try
          immediately but for banjo filter i'll take time. we have here all
          snow, surprisingly in November.
          my car was runing in Holland all
          before and I suppose with cleanness of diesel should not be problems
          there(cause my frined owned it there) but here in Georgia we still
          have sulfur ppm quite high, far than any Euro 2,4,5. so i wonder if i
          put some diesel cleaner with 10 gal of diesel, can i damage anything?
          won't it be worst? any experience with that, good or bad?
          thank
          you in advance. Levan

          Levan
          Tbilisi, Georgia - Thu 01st December 2011 07:27am (GMT)

          • Subject : Re : Re : Re : Re : Re : lugging at low RPM 1500
            I haven't tried diesel cleaners in the past but i always flushed my
            fuel lines and tanks everytime i had diesel flow problems. Chances are
            the strainer in that banjo bolt needs attention since that is the end
            of the low pressure fuel circuit before it enters the injection pump.
            Conversely your fuel filter might be clogging up as well affecting
            your fuel flow towards the pump.
            Cheers.

            Bill
            Australia - Thu 01st December 2011 09:24pm (GMT)

            • Subject : Re : Re : Re : Re : Re : Re : lugging at low RPM 1500
              thank you Bill,i'm all reading and checking. already confused a lot as
              I found out this fuel pump is governed by ECU, it is COVEC-F by
              ZEXEL_Bosch, in this cases crankshaft sensor can also be as writen.
              I'll plug tomorrow car chip in OBD port and will find if any
              signals.although no CHECK light yet, it was a few days ago and went
              out in about 10 minutes. with our technicians i'm so afraid dont want
              to go to the repair shop and i'm waiting to find time to reach that
              banjo filter and change main fuel filter too.will continue
              investigating so lets see... if i keep that car, i hope this knoledge
              will be useful in the future, i'm so pesimistic, but i thought it was
              not ECU controlled!!! are before 97 models also ECU controlled? anyone
              knows about it. in the worst case in the future cant i put just a
              mechanic fuel pump without any ECU.still nobody cares for any
              emissions in my country, at least thats positive.thanks to
              everyone.will update on progress.

              Levan
              Tbilisi, Georgia - Thu 01st December 2011 09:37pm (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Re : lugging at low RPM 1500
      Hi Levan: I've had both the crankshaft and maf sensor out for cleaning
      and they react positively to the maintenance but as you said any
      electronic hiccup will light up the engine check light. As for the
      engine being able to be reverted back to conventional injection I'm
      not sure wether it would be an economically viable option since it
      would require modifying too many systems and you would probably loose
      out on some performance in the process. In my personal experience
      however I've found that the electronic management for my '97 terrano
      has been more reliable than I ever expected it to be, without a single
      problem in 5 years of hard driving,only requiring some maf sensor
      cleaning but the engine will let you know when it needs
      it.
      Cheers.

      Bill
      - Australia - Fri 02nd December 2011 03:04am (GMT)

 
Subject :

Levan
Tbilisi, Georgia - Wed 30th November 2011 01:46am (GMT)
  • Subject : Re :
    Clean the gauze filter at the fuel pump.
    Put in a new normal fuel
    filter.
    Cut the old one apart and look for black bits i.e. algae
    coming through from the fuel tank, as the change from low sulfur to
    high sulfur fuel may have killed off the algae growing on the walls of
    the tank, and the filters may be full of dead algae...

    Luke
    Sudan - Sat 03rd December 2011 05:47pm (GMT)

 
Subject : nissan terrano erratic tickover
hello got a 2005 terrano 2.7 diesel that has very erratic tickover. On
stopping engine often sits between 1200 and 1500 rpm, sometimes it
drops to about 800 rpm after varying times, sometimes it does not
drop, other times it settles straight at 800 rpm. When braking with
the gears say on descent the engines suddenly revs often sitting at
2000 rpm.
Has any one else experienced this and / or any ideas
what the cause might be and how to fix? Worried with winter coming up
as could be dangerous

simon miles
newport, torfaen, UK - Sun 27th November 2011 09:09pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : nissan terrano erratic tickover
    Try cleaning the earthing points on the chassis and the engine block
    so the electricity can flow through without a resistance from dirt,
    oil or rust.
    This is a known problem with this model.
    A quick
    check would be to string a 10 amp wire between a clean point on the
    engine block and an earth point on the chassis, see if this makes a
    difference???

    Rod
    UK - Tue 29th November 2011 05:08am (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Re : nissan terrano erratic tickover
      thanks did as you suggested and big improvement
      simon miles
      newport, torfaen, UK - Sat 03rd December 2011 07:38pm (GMT)

      • Subject : Re : Re : Re : nissan terrano erratic tickover
        OK, so now clean every last earthing point, coat in copper grease so
        that corrosion cannot rear it's ugly head again.
        If you have any
        doubts about the earthing straps being internally corroded etc,
        replace them with new.
        Electrickery demands a smooth passage there
        and back!!!

        Rod
        UK - Sun 04th December 2011 10:03am (GMT)

 
Subject : Navara
Can gearbox oil in the transfer box ruin the transfer box my Nissan
dealer says it needs a new one plus switches and seals if so how much
should I expect to be charged

Joel
Surbiton, Surrey, UK - Thu 24th November 2011 09:53pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : Navara
    How "ruined" is it?
    How long did you have the incorrect grade of
    fluid in the transfer box? What symptoms did it display towards "the
    end" when you obviously noticed something wrong, and took it to the
    dealer?
    Have you consulted for a second opinion?
    Go to a
    gearbox reconditioner, don't say what the dealer told you, let the man
    analyse the problem for himself.. Listen to what he says, then make up
    your own mind as to what does and does not need
    reconditioning/replacement.
    Depending the age of your vehicle it
    may be cheaper to buy a second hand transfer box in good condition and
    bolt it in, rather than overhaul a "ruined" one???
    It's your money
    and your vehicle, get a second opinion. Dealerships are sometimes
    called "stealerships" in the US of A; and for good reason!

    Rob
    UK - Fri 25th November 2011 08:41am (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Re : Navara
      They are saying gearbox oil has overheated and basically melted
      everything
      It just wouldn't engage 4x4 no noise no nothing

      Joel
      UK - Fri 25th November 2011 11:08am (GMT)

      • Subject : Re : Re : Re : Navara
        As above, see an expert.
        Vehicle is still mobile, second opinion
        should be easy to get???
        What type of oil did you have in
        there????

        Rob
        UK - Sat 26th November 2011 08:42am (GMT)

 
Subject : heater control
will the heater control unit off a n reg terrano petrol model fit my
2.7 tdi model m reg please dam thing dont work

david robert kerslake
hull, east yorkshire, UK - Thu 17th November 2011 06:40pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : heater control
    Go to a Nissan dealer.
    Ask nicely:
    "Dear Mr Parts man, could
    you look up the parts number for the module for my truck, then look up
    the part number for that other truck, and can you tell me, are they
    the same?"

    If the answer is "yes", ask sweetly: "And how much
    of a mortgage on my first- born will I need to take out to buy this
    wonderful part?"
    and you will know a fair price to pay for it as
    well.
    Merry Christmas!

    Rob
    UK - Fri 25th November 2011 08:46am (GMT)

 
Subject : heater control

david robert kerslake
hull, east yorkshire, UK - Thu 17th November 2011 06:37pm (GMT)
 
Subject : Terrano 2 /2.4 SE spark plugs
Hi i recently purchased a 1996 2.4SE Terrano 2. Went to local diy
motor shop to get plugs , took out old ones and they are about 10 mm
shorter than new ones.old ones are champion plugs and have been on
champion web site to find they are specified for vehicle . new ones
are bosch and the motor spares shop and others on the net inc (euro
car parts)say that the bosch ones are correct,so really not sure who
is right and not willing to chance sticking a hole in top of piston
engine is KAV24 E
hope someone could shed light on this, thanks in
advance. Rob

RobP1969
taunton, somerset, UK - Wed 16th November 2011 10:57pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : Terrano 2 /2.4 SE spark plugs
    Why would you even think of putting Bosch plugs in a Japanese
    vehicle?

    Try this
    site.

    http://www.spark-plugs.co.uk/

    Put in the
    information

    Answer I get is:

    Results and
    Information
    Make
    NISSAN
    Model
    TERRANO
    II
    Production Year
    93-->
    Engine
    Size
    2.4
    Variant
    Not Specified
    Engine
    Type
    KA24E
    Additional Info
    Not Applicable
    Standard
    Gap (mm)
    X


    Standard Part (may be Copper, Platinum
    or OEM Iridium)

    Part
    Number


    ZFR5E-11


    3.54+vat

    I
    have never been let down by NGK and use them in all my
    engines.


    Fred
    Botswana - Thu 17th November 2011 08:39am (GMT)

 
Subject : terano nats
justgot terano to use as a off roaderwent out in it and hit a rock
with back diff and stop left it overnight and it strated fisrt time
but day before would not start peolpe are saying its the nats and to
take it out so how hard would it be to do thank steven

steven
aspatria, cumbria, UK - Wed 16th November 2011 02:19pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : terano nats
    NATS?

    Is this the Nissan Anti Theft System?
    How did this
    have anything to do with you hitting a rock and the engine not
    starting?
    Is it the petrol or the diesel engine?
    Please
    explain?

    Tom
    Lower Zimbabwe - Thu 17th November 2011 08:44am (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Re : terano nats
      it is the 2.7 tdi hit back diff when off roading i thought i had stall
      it but it would not start evry thing was fine people that was with us
      said that the nats system must have cut out the engine but could not
      find the ecu also the nats is nissan anti theft sytem

      steven
      aspatria, cumbria, UK - Thu 17th November 2011 02:01pm (GMT)

      • Subject : Re : Re : Re : terano nats
        The ignition key is an integral part of the security system, when the
        battery inside the key is low in charge the whole system will work
        erratically. Have your key checked out while it has a bit of power
        left in it, they can even reproduce them rather cheaply so long as
        there is power in the key.

        Bill
        NSW, Australia - Thu 17th November 2011 08:05pm (GMT)

        • Subject : Re : Re : Re : Re : terano nats
          thanks for repleybut key does not have a battery in battery is in a
          seprate forb people are saying the knock cut the security system in to
          cut off mode so need to take it out is this a hard job

          steve
          aspatria, cumbria, UK - Fri 18th November 2011 06:46am (GMT)

          • Subject : Re : Re : Re : Re : Re : terano nats
            Off roading/4wd'ing does not usually involve hitting dumb
            rocks.
            Mostly dumb rocks don't move, and it hurts your
            vehicle.
            This may be the way your vehicle is telling you.."Don't
            do that again!!"
            Suggest you take the vehicle's advice.
            Or
            pick on softer rocks...

            Rupert
            Upper Maldives - Fri 18th November 2011 08:56am (GMT)

            • Subject : Re : Re : Re : Re : Re : Re : terano nats
              why have a 4x4 and not use it for off roading its like haveing a drum
              a not hitting it

              steven
              aspatria, cumbria, UK - Fri 18th November 2011 03:31pm (GMT)

              • Subject : Re : Re : Re : Re : Re : Re : Re : terano nats
                The objective of off-roading is to get you, the vehicle, and it's
                passengers from point A to Point B safely.
                Your Terrano is not
                designed to smash rocks.
                Rocks are to be avoided.
                Remember,
                as a child, playing "Snakes and Ladders"?
                Regard the rocks as
                snakes, and you'll get the idea behind this concept.
                If you insist
                you want to disable the NATS, suggest it may take an expert, perhaps
                at a Nissan dealer, as the usual efforts are directed at making it
                work.
                P.S. The rocks will win, every time!

                Rupert
                UK - Sun 20th November 2011 12:53am (GMT)

 
Subject : r50 lift
Looking at replacing rear springs on r50 terrano as old ones are
stuffed . Have come across full set of front and rear springs but they
are a 2 inch lift set . Would these be ok with the origional rear
shocks and front struts ?
Any thoughts ??

steve
ashburton, nz - Wed 16th November 2011 05:40am (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : r50 lift
    Steve, your old springs are stuffed..but are the 2 inch lift set
    replacements brand new or slightly worn?
    If slightly worn they may
    droop back to original specs fairly quickly???
    If it doesn't cost
    too much, it may be worth a crack...since you have to replace the
    springs anyway????

    John
    Christchurch - Wed 16th November 2011 08:33am (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Re : r50 lift
      They were fitted to his truck then taken off because his truck would
      not fit in the garage any more . He is after $350 for the set . Not
      really after the lift but need to do something as back end is on the
      bump stops with kids and a bit of gear in thr boot ( kids not in the
      boot ).

      steve
      ashburton, nz - Wed 16th November 2011 09:00am (GMT)

 
Subject : 4wd
I put my 1983 Nissian in 4wd and went forward about 15 feet and it
felt like i was putting on the break but i wasen't!It cam to a stop i
back up about 3 feet and went forward again about the same distance
and it stop again.I dont'know if it is in the front hubs or the
tranfercase any ideals i would be happy to hear them.Thanks

Terry
HoneyGrove, Tx, USA - Tue 15th November 2011 07:31pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : 4wd
    Just an idea but sometimes people change diff centers for another one
    with a different ratio only on the rear, and leave the front one
    original causing both diffs to clash when in all wheel drive.
    Good
    luck.

    Bill
    NSW, Australia - Tue 15th November 2011 08:26pm (GMT)

  • Subject : Re : 4wd
    I wonder if you are turning rather tight with the front hubs locked in
    as that will put a lot of strain on the drive train and give that
    feeling of brakes being on.If so then try it with the steering
    straight ahead.cheers.

    laurie
    Cheshunt, Vic., Australia - Wed 16th November 2011 05:16am (GMT)

  • Subject : Re : 4wd
    What type of surface were you on when you engaged four wheel
    drive?
    Was it a high grip surface such as a dry tarmac road, or a
    slippery surface like it should always be when engaging 4wd?
    and
    as above, did you have all the wheels pointing in a straight
    line?
    You are locking the front and rear diffs together, and can
    "wind up" the geartrain and drivetrain to the point of breaking if the
    surface is not slippery...

    Fred
    - Botswana - Wed 16th November 2011 08:30am (GMT)

 
Subject : 94 mistral gas consumption
Hey there. I recently bought a 94 nissan mistral 2.7l turbo diesel.
The gas consumption seems to be alot lower then I had anticipated. My
last tank I got 496km - 67.89 litres of disel. Roughly working out to
17 mpg. Is that right? The man that sold it said he got 30mpg on the
thing ...

Im not very mechanical but I did have a buddy look
the engine over and neither I or him could find any obvious leaks or
anything.

Anyways any imput and or ideas as to what the
problem could be would be appreciated.

Thanks, Tim.

Tim
Vernon, BC, Canada - Mon 14th November 2011 08:55pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : 94 mistral gas consumption
    Hello: my car is a '97 Terrano same engine as yours and also
    intercooled. I happen to get roughly the same mileage out of mine but
    i have noticed it uses a lot more fuel on highway driving than it
    does around the city. I wish it had a taller final drive ratio to help
    it bring the cruising engine speed down a bit when keeping up with
    traffic. But overall it is a terrific little engine that will go
    forever and will get you everywhere reliably without asking you for
    much in return, just the most basic maintenance.
    Cheers.

    Bill
    NSW, Australia - Tue 15th November 2011 03:39am (GMT)

  • Subject : Re : 94 mistral gas consumption
    Replace your air filter and your fuel filter and try again.
    What
    speeds are you cruising at?

    Fred
    - Botswana - Tue 15th November 2011 08:34am (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Re : 94 mistral gas consumption
      Hey, got a 2 week old fuel filter air filter. I havent done yet,
      mostly highway driving roughly between 80-100 km/h.

      I did
      notice my tires were a little low and also noticed the hubs were
      locked in.

      Going to do an oil change and an air filter I
      suppose.

      Thanks for the replys, Tim.

      Tim
      Vernon, BC, Canada - Tue 15th November 2011 10:21pm (GMT)

      • Subject : Re : Re : Re : 94 mistral gas consumption
        Locked in hubs will definitely impact your fuel mileage since you are
        spinning two axles, a diff and a drive shaft for no good reason at
        all.
        Air filters can make a heap of difference, but also check the
        integrity of all air ducting to and from the filter.
        Your cruising
        speed is what most of us do for maximum economy.

        John
        NZ - Wed 16th November 2011 08:38am (GMT)

        • Subject : Re : Re : Re : Re : 94 mistral gas consumption
          PS Pump those tyres up to at least 34 psi cold all round if highway
          cruising; drop them down for serious off road.
          Don't forget, tyres
          lose one pound per square inch pressure per month whether you drive on
          them or let them sit doing nothing.

          John
          NZ - Wed 16th November 2011 08:41am (GMT)

          • Subject : Re : Re : Re : Re : Re : 94 mistral gas consumption
            Thanks for the advice everyone, going to swap out the oil and air
            filter this week maybe even the air filter on the turbo. Hoping it all
            adds to some better mileage. Was really hoping to get a little closer
            to 25 mpg out of it. Especially with the price of diesel going up here
            lately.

            Thanks for the imput everyone.


            UK - Wed 16th November 2011 09:52pm (GMT)

 
Subject : Nissan Terrano Clutch
Nissan Terrano 2.7 SE (5 door - 1997)
Last night, whilst driving
home, when I started pushing in the clutch, I heard a squeaking noise
and then the clutch started feeling 'looser'. It has no give now and
is only taking right at the end of the foot-well. When I finally got
home, the clutch is only just taking - right at the end and is
struggling to allow me to go into first gear. Is this a problem with
the clutch master cylinder or do you think the whole clutch is
knackered?

James Bagnall
Plymouth, Devon, UK - Sun 13th November 2011 01:12pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : Nissan Terrano Clutch
    What level is the fluid in the clutch master cylinder?
    Crawl
    under and look at the rubber boot on the clutch slave cylinder, is it
    leaking fluid?
    May need a refurbishment or a new slave
    cylinder?
    If you are going to keep the vehicle for years more,
    have the cylinder bored oversize and a seamless stainless steel sleeve
    inserted, no more corrosion damage.
    Have someone depress the
    clutch while you look at the lever movement..does it move as far as it
    should?
    Try bleeding the slave cylinder as you would a brake
    cylinder.
    If that is all done with no improvement, then you have a
    clutch problem.

    Fred
    - Mon 14th November 2011 09:28am (GMT)

  • Subject : Re : Nissan Terrano Clutch
    "I think the biggest reason it is so hard to bleed the clutch system
    is because the bleeder valve is not higher than the incoming fluid
    line. Gravity bleeding will work to clear the clutch line of air, but
    there will be a bubble left in the slave cylinder. What I found that
    works is to simply unbolt the slave cylinder and hold it such in a way
    that the bleeder valve is at the highest point, relative to the
    incoming line. Holding it this way, the air bubble in the cylinder
    will naturally float up and out by gravity, e.g. the slave will fill
    up from the bottom and push the air out the top. Since gravity is
    doing all the work, this is a one man job. When the air bubbles stop,
    close the bleeder and attach the slave to the bell housing."

    Fred
    - UK - Wed 16th November 2011 10:26am (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Re : Nissan Terrano Clutch
      Thanks for the advice fellas - I checked fluid levels and set about to
      bleed the lines and slave cylinder - didn't take long, but a bit of a
      fidget under the chassis. It really bubbled as I was bleeding leaving
      me to believe there was a good amount of air in the system. It all
      seems to be good now, so thanks for the advice.

      James Bagnall
      Plymouth, Devon, UK - Wed 16th November 2011 12:56pm (GMT)

      • Subject : Re : Re : Re : Nissan Terrano Clutch
        Hate to "burst your bubble" but ask yourself "how did that air get in
        those closed lines?"
        The answer usually is "through leaking
        rubber seals on the slave cylinder, caused by the rusting slave
        cylinder wall rubbing away at the seals and wearing a hole big enough
        for air to get in"
        Sooner, rather than later, you'll have to
        overhaul or replace the slave cylinder..just replacing the rubber
        seals will not work, they will just be torn apart by the rust spots
        once again.

        Nigel
        Lower Zambesi - Fri 18th November 2011 01:37pm (GMT)

      • Subject : Re : Re : Re : Nissan Terrano Clutch
        make sure theres no air in the clutch damper mate.this is a pipe that
        runs from the clutch slave cylinder "block" and travels all the way
        down the drivers side of the chassis.theres a bleed nipple at the end
        of it.this is very often over looked when diagnosing clutch hydraulic
        faults.

        stu
        preston, lancs, UK - Fri 25th November 2011 12:10pm (GMT)

        • Subject : Re : Re : Re : Re : Nissan Terrano Clutch
          another thing with terrano clutch pedal faults is the plastic bush
          wearing through on the pedal pivot.what used to be a reolacement pedal
          is now just a bush.roughly £8 from your dealer.5 mins to change it
          too!!!removes all the slack from the pedal and makes for better and
          smoother clutch control.use a small amount of general purpose grease
          on re-assembly.

          stu
          preston, UK - Fri 25th November 2011 12:16pm (GMT)

          • Subject : Re : Re : Re : Re : Nissan Terrano Clutch
            Hi I have been trying to buy this plastic bush and nissans say they
            only supply complete assembly do you know anywhere i can buy just the
            bush

            Steve Peacock
            Ferndown, Dorset, UK - Mon 21st January 2013 12:11pm (GMT)

 
Subject : accelerator problem
Hi, I have a Nissan Patrol 2004 3.0l & Im having problems with
acceleration, every time I try to accelerate nothing happens & the
revs drop down to idle & I then have to switch off & start again. But
slow acceleration it seem to be OK sometimes. Im getting error "code
43 accel pos sensor" when diagnostics have been done. we change the
accelerator pedal but with no luck. can any on HELP!!

hassan
Birmingham, West Midlands, UK - Sat 12th November 2011 11:49am (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : accelerator problem
    the TPS Throttle Position Sensor isnot the accelerator pedal, it'd
    the rheostat that measures the position of the pedal i.e. how far into
    the floor you have the pedal.
    You would have to check by testing
    the resistance of the sensor as you move the pedal...to see if the
    resistance is an even curve from 0 to full open.
    The clue is that
    after you turn the engine off then on again, the symptom goes
    away.
    By turning the ignition off you are "rebooting" the
    computer.
    When the fault is sensed agai, the computer returns the
    engine to idle..which is a damn sight better than it going to full
    throttle, which in a fly by wire system is another
    alternative.....
    There is a problem, it is electrical.

    Fred
    very near Botswana, UK - Sat 12th November 2011 03:00pm (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Re : accelerator problem
      http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GBRJdzrGUA4

      http://www.autosho
      p101.com/forms/h33.pdf


      UK - Sat 12th November 2011 03:10pm (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Re : accelerator problem
      Hi thanks for all your help. Its was an electrical problem(a broken
      wire), everything is work fine now.

      hassan
      birmingham, west midlands, UK - Fri 18th November 2011 08:41pm (GMT)

 
Subject : 3.0 Sump
can anyone say if the sump from a 2.7 terrano will fit a 3.0ltr sport
Rob Lewis
Merthyr, mid glam, UK - Tue 08th November 2011 09:13pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : 3.0 Sump
    My thought would be to ring the good old helpful Nissan dealer closest
    to you and ask him for the part numbers for the two sumps and see if
    they are the same.
    Don't give up If the numbers are not the same,
    ask if the sumps are by chance, identical.
    Good luck..

    Charles
    Sussex - Sun 04th December 2011 10:10am (GMT)

 
Subject : Installing block heater 94 mistral
Hello, I recently purchased a 94 nissan mistral 2.7L turbo diesel. I
live in colder climates then it came from and was thinking of putting
on a block heater. The mechanic I spoke too said I may have to order
the part from the dealer. Wondering if thats the case or if I can put
in one from a 94 pathfinder or something similar?

Im really
pretty clueless when it comes to repairs. Any options or advice would
be appreciated.

Also wondering if anyone knows where to check
the transmission fluid?

Tim
Vernon, BC, Canada - Fri 04th November 2011 09:25pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : Installing block heater 94 mistral
    Your mechanic may well be right, especially if he is the one who will
    be fitting it! you could ask parts suppliers if they have a block
    heater for the Mistral???

    The fluid level for the auto is
    found at the end of the transmission dipstick, which is near the
    firewall.
    Google how to read the levels on the stick, and what
    procedure you must undertake before you can assess the level
    accurately.

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Mon 07th November 2011 08:59am (GMT)

 
Subject : Indicators
I have a P reg Terrano and there seems to be a problem with the
indicators. They keep randomly blowing 10 amp fuses yet the hazards
and the alarm activation stll flash. The backs of the indicators are
exposed to the eliments on both sides at the front so wondering if
water has got into them somehow but it still doesnt explain why only
the indicators do not work. Any Ideas gratfully recieved

stephen carter
chatham, kent, UK - Thu 03rd November 2011 04:01am (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : Indicators
    Do you have a trailer plug wired in?
    Check that very
    carefully.
    Any chance it could be short-circuiting intermittently?
    (flying round in the breeze, broken wires, stripped insulation where
    it enters the car body through a steel-lined hole instead of a rubber
    grommet?

    Fred
    here, Botswana - Thu 03rd November 2011 07:36am (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Re : Indicators
      It does have a tow bar and electrics. It looks like my weekend will be
      spent going over the car with a fine tooth comb. Thank you for the
      advice

      stephen carter
      chatham, kent, UK - Fri 04th November 2011 04:30pm (GMT)

 
Subject : Bushes
Is it possible to replace terrano shock absorber bushes rather than
the whole unit, and if so what are the called, as I've searched high
and low on different names and still can't find them

Tazzy
St leonards, East sussex, UK - Mon 31st October 2011 01:48pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : Bushes
    yes, but if your bushes are slogged out, so are your shocks.
    Ergo,
    get new shocks ands the bushes come free!


    UK - Tue 01st November 2011 06:27pm (GMT)

 
Subject : fuel pump, nissan terrano 11
can someone give me details on the location, and testing, of the fuel
pump on my 2.4 petrol, nissan terrano 11, 1998. Thanking you, Gerry
Wilson

gerry wilson
pinoso, alicante, spain - Mon 31st October 2011 11:06am (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : fuel pump, nissan terrano 11
    the fuel pump is located inside the fuel tank. First port of call for
    testing would be at the fuel pump fuse and relay.


    newcastle, nsw, Australia - Wed 02nd November 2011 03:01am (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Re : fuel pump, nissan terrano 11
      thank you so much, tried the relay switch first and ¨bingo¨-
      regards, Gerry

      gerry wilson
      pinoso, alicante, spain - Wed 02nd November 2011 05:46pm (GMT)

 
Subject : terrano rear wheel locked
I have a 1996 nissan terrano 2.7 deisel, whilst driving it gave the
impression that the rear break had locked on managed to get it home
but the rear wheel wont turn freely when out of gear and when going
into reverse it seems as if the rear break has jammed on solid any
ideas, please

carola james
st johns, UK - Sun 30th October 2011 10:31am (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : terrano rear wheel locked
    Bleed the two back brakes. If after bleeding, they both turn freely,
    but after another application of braking they jam on again, suspect
    thast the hoses have degraded internally and are forming "non return
    valves" therefore allowing pressure on but no fluid return???.


    UK - Tue 01st November 2011 06:30pm (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Re : terrano rear wheel locked
      rear wheel jamming on can sometimes be linked to a leaking hub
      seal.rear axle oil gets inside the brake drum and contaminates the
      brake linings.this actually causes sticking of the brake shoes to the
      drum.also check that the shoe retaining springs and pins are in good
      order.if the drums are hard to remove just use two bolts in the holes
      provided to ease the drum off.

      stu
      preston, UK - Fri 25th November 2011 12:24pm (GMT)

 
Subject : seatbelt retraction
hi all just bought a terrano 11 the drivers seatbelt is fully extended
and will not retract any suggestions please

gary
buxton, derbyshire, UK - Tue 25th October 2011 07:39pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : seatbelt retraction
    Consider this:
    What would happen if the seatbelt failed when you
    really, really needed it to work?
    Take the seatbelt out.

    Throw it away.
    Replace it.
    Simple job unscrewing two
    bolts.
    Life saved: your own, your wife's, child, friend?

    Fred
    under Botswana - Tue 25th October 2011 08:44pm (GMT)

 
Subject : Slow Mistral
Dear all,
I have a Nissan Mistral (yr 1998 diesel- intercolled).
It's a japan inport and it's the same a the terrano II.
The car is
very slow between 0 - 2000 rpm. What could be the problem
???
Thank you in advance,
Regards, Prem

Premj Jaddoe
paramaribo, Suriname, Suriname - Sun 23rd October 2011 11:11am (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : Slow Mistral
    How long has it taken to get as slow as it is now?
    Was the
    deterioration in performance overnight, or over months?
    If over
    months, try replacing your fuel filter ASAP.
    If overnight, have a
    look at all the turbo hoses and check for leaks/splits.
    Do those
    things forst, then see what you find.
    And read this site from end
    to end, especially re fuelling isses, accelerator pump, No.1 injector
    lift sensor etc.

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Mon 24th October 2011 07:16am (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Re : Slow Mistral
      Thanks for the advice.
      Prem jaddoe
      Suriname, Paramaribo, Suriname - Mon 24th October 2011 11:57am (GMT)

  • Subject : Slow Mistral
    I have just fixed the very same issue on my 1996 P Reg
    Mistral.
    Where the engine air intake meets the air filter there is
    a sensor bolted to the air filter cylindrical housing. This is the
    mass air flow sensor, mine had a square 'Hitachi' electrical
    connection box on the top.
    I got mine here after a lot of
    searching


    http://seekpart24.com/metzger/air-mass-sensor-891061?c=100754#veh
    icles

    Cut and paste into your browser.

    Paul
    Leeds, Yorkshire, UK - Sun 02nd December 2012 01:06am (GMT)

 
Subject : Fuel tank removal Terrano 2
Recently acquired a 1996 Terrano 2, Fuel lines blocked at tank. Tank
nearly down and blockage cured but need to clean tank outand seem
totally unable to disconnect filler neck. Seem to think that it should
come out complete with filler but can't see how. Any ideas gratefully
received

David Winsland
St Christophe du Ligneron, France - Fri 14th October 2011 02:16pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : Fuel tank removal Terrano 2
    If you have removed the blockage and flushed out the tank as best
    possible, why not leave the tank in the vehicle and use algae killer
    in your next 5 tankfuls of fuel, keeping an eye on the fuel filter for
    contamination as the crud dies and comes through the system?

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Mon 24th October 2011 06:56am (GMT)

 
Subject : y61 transmission
2002 patrol with td42t and auto transmission will only engage top gear
when doing over 1ookms does not kick down and if slow down will not
not drop down gear until complete stop and when releasing from 1st to
2nd does not want to do it easily and will do it with a big jerk just
had service done fuel pump and injectors done i think its the throttle
control sensor any other feed back would be highly appreciated

zak
nadi, fiji - Thu 06th October 2011 12:30am (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : y61 transmission
    See the earlier email below re the problems with 1-2 shifts plus lock
    up being a problem with crap in the valve body inside the
    transmission.
    Change the fluid and filter in the trans, flush the
    whole trans out, this would be the cheapest and first thing to do
    before taking out the valve body and having it cleaned.

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Thu 06th October 2011 03:34pm (GMT)

 
Subject : Rear lights
Can someone confirm which the rear lights are on the Mistral please
(sorry, blond female!) I have bumper lights which come on as tail
lights and indicators - are the high level ones on the side supposed
to be tail lights or just brake lights with the lower part blanked??

Kristal
Exeter, Devon, UK - Tue 04th October 2011 09:43am (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : Rear lights
    See your friendly local MOT tester and ask him if the lights as they
    presently are configured have been configured in that way in order to
    meet local lighting regulations.
    Some countries do not allow the
    use of more than one set of rear indicator or brake lights unless they
    are within a certain distance of each other.

    I think you will
    find that applies in this case...

    Fred
    Botswana - Tue 04th October 2011 09:54am (GMT)

  • Subject : Re : Rear lights
    My '97 Terrano is the same. Bumper lights are tail lights,reverse
    lights and blinkers. High level lights are only brake lights as well
    as the one in the rear window.
    Cheers.

    Bill
    Bombo, NSW - Wed 05th October 2011 01:19am (GMT)

 
Subject : Nissan Mistral Overdrive
Hi, have finally joined the 4x4 crowd and bought a Nissan Mistral 1995
2.7diesel for towing the horsebox. Can someone please explain in plain
english what the overdrive is for and when to use it please? The man I
bought it from said to leave it on permenantly but doesnt seem to go
as well with it on and I've no idea what it actually does?? Also how
do you remove the back row of seats? And where is the fuse box please
- the right hand side of my dashboard doesnt light up and I/m not sure
if its the fuse or the bulb (clock not on either?)

Kristal
Exeter, Devon, UK - Tue 04th October 2011 07:46am (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : Nissan Mistral Overdrive
    A simple explanation of the overdrive unit: It is gears 4 and 5 if you
    had a manual transmission.

    At with a warmed up engine in D at
    60kmh click the button to take the O/D off.
    The light on the dash
    will say (O/D off).
    You are now in third gear, slow down and you
    will go to 2 and then 1.
    Stop and then restart and it will change
    from 1 to 2 to 3.
    Now at about 60 kmh flick the overdrive in.

    You will feel hear a change in the engine note as the lockup on
    the torque converter goes to 4th gear where it is almost but not quite
    locked up i.e. it is slipping and generating heat in the auto trans;
    then you will hear the engine note drop, the rev counter will go down
    by 2 to 3 hundred revs, and you will be in 5th (locked up) top
    gear.
    If you are going to tow a horsebox around, please get an
    auxilliary transmission cooler fitted in front of the radiator and
    feed the auto trans output fluid through that and back through the
    bottom cooler already in the radiator.
    Heat is the enemy of auto
    transmissions.

    Ergo, leave the O/D in when driving normally,
    but flick the O/D OUT when towing; remember it slips trying to get to
    5th gear lockup.
    Slipping creates heat; heat destroys
    transmissions.

    80kmh in 3rd gear equates to around 3000 revs
    and that engine will cope with that all day and night. Sounds noisy
    but it's not a problem.

    P.S. I do hope that your horsebox
    has it's own braking system as well???

    Your dashboard lights
    on one side..that probably means the bulbs are blown on the other
    side...nothing to do with fuses.You will need to have the dash removed
    to get to the bulbs to replace them. replace them all, you can even
    put LEDs in which theoretically will never break down and give much
    better illumination.

    Have a look at where your seats meet the
    floor, usually nuts and bolts hold them in, and undoing them releases
    the seats so you can take them out.

    Have a read of this site,
    take your time, and learn a bit about the vehicle before you get into
    trouble.

    Fred
    Botswana - Tue 04th October 2011 09:50am (GMT)

 
Subject :
i have inherited a 1990 nissan terrano rm3 turbo diesel, it is factory
fitted with 2 batteries i cannot read words on the switches on the
console to my left next to handbrake lever anyone know what they do?
is one of them for primary and secondary battery charging ? any reply
appreiated

dave m
- australia - Mon 03rd October 2011 07:29am (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : Switches
    Without seeing a photo no one would know what those switches
    do.
    Even then, who knows, They may have been rejigged to do
    anything!
    What happens when you switch them on and
    off?
    Usually dual battery setups are wired to automatically charge
    the batteries without the driver having to do anything.
    Look for a
    VSR (voltage sensitive relay)
    somewhere nearby the batteries, or
    connected to both the alternator and the batteries??

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Mon 03rd October 2011 10:07am (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Re : Switches
      Thanks for reply John ok found one is for on and off road suspension
      and seems to work,the 2nd is not connected, 3rd has 3 positions left
      on,center off, right on, all wires have been rejoined so many times
      (different colours of course) i cant trace em ,miles of multicoloured
      spaghetti,checked alt output and get around 14v charge on both batts
      dont matter what position the switch is in. put in a new primary batt
      on right hand side and its charging fine now. maybe was just the
      battery buggered no probs starting now

      dave m
      qld, australia - Tue 04th October 2011 09:56am (GMT)

      • Subject : Re : Re : Re : Switches
        That suspension switch probably used to work, softening/hardening up
        the shock absorbers (all four of them) by changing the valving
        internally.
        If they are still original, replace them ASAP as they
        will be as useful as a 20 year old piece of string at controlling "the
        bounce" in your suspension.
        (More bounce to the ounce, more slam
        to the gram!!)
        Replace your sway bar bushes with Nolathane units
        and cornering becomes more accurate as well.

        John
        Christchurch, NZ - Tue 04th October 2011 10:26am (GMT)

  • Subject : Re :
    Take your terrano is an import . Northern japanese terranos came out
    with 2 batteries because of the colder conditions for cranking the
    engine . Because the batteries are a bit smaller than the single
    battery models if one packs up it will struggle to start on one . You
    are best to replace both batteries at the same time if you can but
    with the price of them its bloody expensive .

    cheers

    steve
    ashburton, nz - Wed 05th October 2011 09:16am (GMT)

 
Subject : ditching EGR/AIW for offroad use of 89' D21 Nissan truck
I need advice from anyone on how to ditch all emission control crap
from my 1989 D21 Nissan truck with a VG30I V-6. Trying to clean up the
engine compartment and get rid of all the crap I don't need. Please
help! thanks, uga82grad

uga82grad
Ft. Benning, GA/USA, USA - Sun 02nd October 2011 08:55pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : ditching EGR/AIW for offroad use of 89' D21 Nissan truck
    Have a look at the sites dealing specifically with the Pathfinder in
    the USA.
    Frankly, I don't like your chances of making the stock
    engine work very well without all that gear.
    The ECU needs sensor
    info to operate; take away the sensors, vacuum tubes, EGR etc and the
    ECU won't know whether to laugh or cry.
    Nor will you.
    If you
    have to ask how to do it, don't do it????

    Fred
    lower Botswana - Mon 03rd October 2011 10:12am (GMT)

 
Subject : Terrano 1
I own a 1988 Nisan Terrano 1 with TD 27 engine , when i go to drive on
dunes , it do not feel me that it is a powerful car , i would like to
switch engine with a 6 cyl one from Nissan .Advice me which engine
would fit in my car ?

Shoukry
Cairo, Egypt, Egypt - Sun 02nd October 2011 11:17am (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : Terrano 1
    The Terrano does not have a very powerful engine; but it can usually
    get to where it needs to go without breaking down or getting
    stuck.

    It will not be worthwhile putting any other engine in
    the Terrano; sell the Terrano and buy a Nissan Patrol.

    Be
    prepared for more expenses in ordinary driving on the road.

    Fred
    near Botswana - Sun 02nd October 2011 06:24pm (GMT)

 
Subject : Nissan Terrano
G'day all, I have a problem with a Nissan Terrano 1995 Pathfinder. The
rev counter occasionally dies and when it does it drops the auto
transmission down a gear it only happen when in tope gear. Any
suggestions? Thanks

Nick
Dunedin, NZ - Sat 01st October 2011 09:18pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : Nissan Terrano
    If you read down a few entries you will see the answer to this, it is
    a FAQ.
    Repair or replace the instrument cluster.

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Sun 02nd October 2011 04:00am (GMT)

 
Subject : ECU ROM Idle RPM Adjustment
Hello All,
While this is not a question directly related to a 4 x
4 forum, it is about a power unit used in that environment. I would
appreciate any help or references from the community.

I have
fitted a 1998 Nissan 2.8 Litre, 6 cylinder Intercooled Turbo Diesel
engine to a Jaguar saloon. The unit is in and operating OK. (V. tight
fit with all the heat exchangers and pre-lube system)
The problem
is that the idle speed is 850 RPM, which is too fast for the autobox
('creep') I need to reduce the speed to about 500 / 550 RPM. However,
because this is an electronically controlled unit, there is no simple
mechanical method of achieving this, that I know of.
It seems that
access to and editing the ECU ROM is the only way that the required
speed can be achieved.
I have looked at various tuning software
packages, like say ConZult, but this allows temporary editing only.
(The standard Nissan Consult system can not even do this) If the
PC/laptop running the software is left connected, then it would do the
business, but that isn't practical. Most of the tuning sites I have
visited relate to extracting greater performance from the relevant
power units and in any event they don't seem to cover this particular
engine. As far as I can see the only option is to modify the ECU by
adding a 'Daughter Board' (PCB) to the relevant microcontroller and
plug in a replacement 'chip' and then reprogram the 'chip' using a
full blown tuning software suite.

Does anyone have any
suggestions as to the most economical / practical way of getting the
result I need.

Kind Regards to All,

John T.

John Tarrant
Mallow, Cork, Ireland - Fri 30th September 2011 11:00pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : ECU ROM Idle RPM Adjustment
    Is your accelerator a "fly by wire" unit or just a linkage from the
    pedal to the pump?

    Bill
    bombo, NSW - Fri 30th September 2011 11:28pm (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Re : ECU ROM Idle RPM Adjustment
      Hello Bill, Thanks for the reply.

      The control system is fully
      electronic, "Fly by Wire2 as you said.

      John T

      John Tarrant
      Mallow, Cork, Ireland - Fri 30th September 2011 11:47pm (GMT)

      • Subject : Re : Re : Re : ECU ROM Idle RPM Adjustment
        My car a Nissan terranoII also has an electronic accelerator and there
        is an adjustment screw for the idle speed at the base of the pedal,
        If yours doesn't have it there's also an idle-up function by the
        e.c.u. which makes the engine idle @ about 750-800 rpm every time the
        A/C is functioning and brings it back down as the A/C system cycles.
        Hopefully you might only have a wiring issue.
        I hope this helps
        you. Cheers.

        Bill
        bombo, NSW - Sat 01st October 2011 12:03am (GMT)

        • Subject : Re : Re : Re : Re : ECU ROM Idle RPM Adjustment
          Thanks again Bill.
          Unfortunately the mechanical part of the
          accelerator system does not have any adjustment.
          I have wired the
          engine heat-up switch. This increases the idle RPM to warm the engine
          more quickly and 'drops out' as soon as the ECU 'sees' that the engine
          temperature sensor has reached the required value. As it happens, the
          Heat-up switch simply provides a +12 Volt input to the ECU. Would that
          there was a similar facility for a range of idle speeds.

          John
          T.

          John Tarrant
          Mallow, Cork, Ireland - Sat 01st October 2011 01:35am (GMT)

        • Subject : Re : Re : Re : Re : ECU ROM Idle RPM Adjustment
          Thanks again Bill.
          Unfortunately the mechanical part of the
          accelerator system does not have any adjustment.
          I have wired the
          engine heat-up switch. This increases the idle RPM to warm the engine
          more quickly and 'drops out' as soon as the ECU 'sees' that the engine
          temperature sensor has reached the required value. As it happens, the
          Heat-up switch simply provides a +12 Volt input to the ECU. Would that
          there was a similar facility for a range of idle speeds.

          John
          T.

          John Tarrant
          Mallow, Cork, Ireland - Sat 01st October 2011 01:36am (GMT)

          • Subject : Re : Re : Re : Re : Re : ECU ROM Idle RPM Adjustment
            John; In my case the glow plugs are wired through a relay box which
            receives an input from the e.c.u./ engine coolant temperature sensor
            to determine the preheating time according to the coolant temperature
            and this is also influenced by outside temperature. Also the coolant
            temperature sensor has a bearing on my idle speed as the engine fast
            idles first thing in a cold morning only to drop back down soon after.
            I get the impression you might have to play around with your wiring a
            little bit and try different connections around your coolant
            temperature sensor since the e.c.u. probably " thinks "that your
            engine is cold all of the time and for this reason it is not
            responding to your trying to bring the idle down by lap top
            tuning.
            Cheers.

            Bill
            Bombo, NSW - Sat 01st October 2011 05:00am (GMT)

            • Subject : Re : Re : Re : Re : Re : Re : ECU ROM Idle RPM Adjustment
              Hi Bill.
              Your comments relating to the glow plugs are noted.
              However the system as installed is exactly as it was in the Patrol
              from which the engine was removed. The "Heat-Up Switch' is a feature
              of that particular model. It is intended to idle the engine at areond
              1150 RPM to bring the engine up to working heat as soon as possible,
              while not in motion. When the required temperature is reached, the ECU
              reverts the idle speed to 'normal' and the illuminated H-U S is
              deactivated. Of course if the vehicle is accelerated beyond the H-U
              threshold RPM, the system ignores the input, unless the vehicle is
              stationary again, before the H-U temperature is reached.

              John
              T

              John Tarrant
              Mallow, Cork, Ireland - Sat 01st October 2011 05:50pm (GMT)

              • Subject : Re : Re : Re : Re : Re : Re : Re : ECU ROM Idle RPM Adjustment
                HI john;
                If you used the nissan engine wiring harness then
                incompatibility between systems is ruled out. As you said before every
                car is different and some e.c.u. have an idle "learning" procedure to
                follow on starting up after resetting and again some would need to be
                carried out with the aid of a laptop and others would be achieved only
                by the e.c.u. alone just following simple steps. Other than that
                perhaps a "consult" diagnostic will give you the answer to the idle
                speed problem. Hopefully you will sort it out quickly and please let
                us know if you have some videos of your conversion it would be good to
                see it.
                Cheers.

                Bill
                Bombo, NSW - Sun 02nd October 2011 01:13am (GMT)

                • Subject : Re : Re : Re : Re : Re : Re : Re : Re : ECU ROM Idle RPM Adjustment
                  Hi Again Bill.
                  Sorry for the delay in responding, I had Internet
                  connection problems. A 'correction' to one of my earlier statements
                  concerning the throttle mechanism - there is, as you indicated, an
                  adjuster for the end position, but this 'bottoms out' at 850
                  RPM.
                  It certainly looks like I will have to go the ConZult /
                  laptop route. I have one other possibility in mind. It is the possible
                  addition of a "Piggy-Back" module, like 'Tunit' or 'Unichip' or
                  something along those lines. I don't yet know if those people would be
                  willing to do a 'one-off' module to allow the adjustments I need. I
                  have made contact with a number of suppliers and am awaiting
                  replies.
                  I don't have a video of the conversion, but I do have
                  some still photos. How can they be attached to the
                  response?

                  John T.

                  John Tarrant
                  Mallow, Cork, Ireland - Tue 04th October 2011 09:00pm (GMT)

                  • Subject : Re : Re : Re : Re : Re : Re : Re : Re : Re : ECU ROM Idle RPM Adjustment
                    Hi John: I hope you find the solution to your idle speed problems with
                    that conzult diagnostic and they are easy to correct. Please keep us
                    posted as for your progress.
                    About the pictures I don't think any
                    documents can be attached to the posts on this site. I thought you
                    might have had pictures or videos of the conversion on you
                    tube.
                    Cheers.

                    Bill
                    Bombo, NSW - Tue 04th October 2011 11:39pm (GMT)

 
Subject : nissian mistral
can not reach over 60mph on the motorway could it be the turbo not
kicking in also have problems when towing our caravan slow up hills do
you know what it could be
i have got it set on over/drive and a/t
is this right thanks jane

jane williams
tipton, west midlands, UK - Tue 27th September 2011 08:49am (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : nissian mistral
    Jane, could you take the time to read through the site.
    Yours is a
    frequently asked question.
    Have a look at fuel filter blockages,
    algae growth, etc. etc. posts down this list.
    The lack of power
    could be lack of fuel, or lack of boost from the turbo.
    Note also
    discussions on speed or lack thereof when towing heavy loads...and a
    caravan is a heavy load with lots of wind resistance, because it is
    shaped like a brick outhouse.
    Before you do too muck towing, have
    an extra transmission cooler plumbed in... se other discussions in
    this site.
    Try not to use overdrive when towing.It's easier on the
    gearbox, it doesn't heat the trans fluid as much and stops the gearbox
    "hunting" for the next higher gear every time you ease up even
    slightly on the accelerator.

    Fred
    Beside Botswana - Tue 27th September 2011 09:49am (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Re : nissian mistral
      thanks how do i check if it is kick down should it change up a gear
      and rev up because it doesnt thanks have i got it set on right thing
      o/d and a/t on while driving round town should we be towing in2nd on
      gear stick

      jane williams
      tipton, west midlands, UK - Tue 27th September 2011 08:56pm (GMT)

      • Subject : Re : Re : Re : nissian mistral
        Depending how steep the hill is, you tow in 2 or even 1, if you are
        changing manually, or trying to stop the caravan rolling downhill too
        fast on the down slope. This saves your brakes a lot of wear and tear,
        and means they won't overheat if you really need to stop quickly in an
        emergency.
        Go to your local library and read books on caravan
        towing, use of automatic transmissions etc before you get into
        trouble, please?

        Fred
        alongside Botswana - Tue 27th September 2011 09:11pm (GMT)

  • Subject : Re : nissian mistral
    Jane: Kick down is a quick change to a lower gear and for that reason
    you should notice your engine revs rise every time this happens. I
    would leave the gear stick out of overdrive,when towing, to avoid
    excessive hunting from the transmission and consequent overheating of
    the trans fluid. Don't forget that kicking down a gear lowers your
    speed for as long as the lower gear is in and a hilly road might not
    let you get to the top at a high speed since these cars are not all
    that great in the power stakes. Finally if you are still not happy
    with your transmission's performance a trans service and fluid flush
    should bring it up to scratch and this should be done on a regular
    basis because trans fluid will degrade overtime and cause all sorts of
    performance problems.
    Good luck.

    Bill
    bombo, nsw - Wed 28th September 2011 12:09am (GMT)

 
Subject : terrano II speedo not working
Im guessing this is a common problem with these vehicles, the digital
dash that incorporates the speedo, odometer & temperature works
sometimes but can also be pixelated & broken.
Is there a fix for
this?

john miller
Glasgow, lanarkshire, UK - Sun 25th September 2011 03:25pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : terrano II speedo not working
    You are so right, there is a fix.
    Keep reading this site, and you
    will find it, and the www. reference in the UK for the fix.

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Sun 25th September 2011 08:57pm (GMT)

 
Subject : 95 mistral 2.7tdi
rev counter not working, also gearbox kicks down when you dont want it
to, i.e under load towing, drops a gear revs like mad but dont
accelerate ease of throttle and she changes up again. I have replaced
all filters and trans fluid, also only getting 15mpg towing 1600kg is
this about right???

mike evans
exeter, devon, UK - Thu 22nd September 2011 04:24pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : 95 mistral 2.7tdi
    In short, yes.
    Kick down occurs when the load and the position of
    the accelerator pedal are computed, and the auto is told "this man is
    putting the boot in, I must try harder"
    and so it changes down a
    gear or two.
    But there is only so much power (torque) available;
    and with a diesel that doesn't mean at high revs, so you don't go any
    faster.
    Letting up on the accelerator tells the computer "the
    bastard has finally realised he is not driving a V8" and it slips into
    a higher gear to make use of the torque of the diesel engine, rather
    than flogging a revving horse.

    All sarcasm aside, have you
    had the vehicle long? Are you used to driving a diesel? Have you ever
    failed to get there at slightly less speed?
    What percentage of the
    time are you towing 1600kg?
    What did you expect towing-wise???

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Fri 23rd September 2011 11:11am (GMT)

 
Subject : ABS cutting in on braking
Hi
I'm new to all this so please be patient with me! I have a
Nissan Teranno II which has started to apply the ABS system every time
you use the brakes. There are no warning lights on dash and the car
has been in the garage but can find no fault - told to drive it as
is!(maybe 'cos I'm a woman and know no difference) It is very annoying
as even when braking gently the peddle vibrates and you get a horrible
clunking noise from the car. PS The brake pads were changed 3 weeks
ago during a routine service.

Gill Haynes
Towcester, Northants, UK - Wed 21st September 2011 11:59am (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : ABS cutting in on braking
    has it only started doing this since the new brake pads havs been
    installed?

    steve
    ashburton, nz - Wed 21st September 2011 07:59pm (GMT)

  • Subject : Re : ABS cutting in on braking
    has it only started doing this since the new brake pads havs been
    installed?

    steve
    ashburton, nz - Wed 21st September 2011 07:59pm (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Re : ABS cutting in on braking
      Hi Steve,
      Brakes pads were changed 3 weeks ago, the problems with
      ABS only started this weekend. The ABS warning light came on tonight!

      gill haynes
      towcester, northants, UK - Wed 21st September 2011 09:01pm (GMT)

      • Subject : Re : Re : Re : ABS cutting in on braking
        Take the vehicle back to whomsoever put the new pads in.
        Let him
        find the fault that he has obviously created.
        Do it ASAP but
        slowly and carefully, because you may not have muck braking
        left.
        Suspect the wiring to the ABS to have been damaged by not
        securing the sliding calipers correctly when changing the
        pads.
        Good luck...

        John
        Christchurch, NZ - Fri 23rd September 2011 11:15am (GMT)

 
Subject : how to shift 4wd
hello everyone.
i just bought a nissan mistral bj 1996 and it is a
automatic trans. i didn't get the owners manual when i bought it and
now i'm wondering,how do u shift it in 4wd? in which gear must it be
or must it be in P or N before u shift the 4wd?

Rick
rotterdam, nl - Tue 20th September 2011 03:51am (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : how to shift 4wd
    Look through this site.
    The use of 4WD is outlined in several
    emails.

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Tue 20th September 2011 09:36am (GMT)

 
Subject : where is the TCM on a 1996 mistral
Hi

I have a gearbox fault on my 1996.
In order to sort
this out i need to locate the transmission control module (TCM) for
the automatic gearbox

the terrano R20 manual states that it
is above the heater unit - its not

I would like to find the
location and if possible have a picture and part number for the
TCM

at my wits end

thanks in advance paulp

paul perry
dagenham, essex, UK - Sun 18th September 2011 01:21pm (GMT)
 
Subject : Strange problem
Hi there
I have got a Nissan Mistral 1994 Disesel Turbo. Whenever
i am driving this vehicle on the plane road, it drives well, but
whenever i go on the hilly road it loosses the power even it's not too
hilly and i can't drive more than 60 km/h. I thought it could be a
problem of Turbo. So i got it checked by the three machanics and they
changed the oil filter, air filter and checked the Turbo and disel
tank. But still i am getting the same problem. Can anybody help me
out.

prat
auckland, NZ, UK - Sat 17th September 2011 02:34am (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : Strange problem
    Prat, read the previous postings re loss of power etc
    Fred
    Under Botswana - Sat 17th September 2011 08:49am (GMT)

  • Subject : Re : Strange problem
    Hello: Sometimes there could be a leak of turbo boost out of a
    flexible inlet joint or a crack in the inlet collector but these
    would generally generate a lot of black smoke as the air to fuel ratio
    is altered. Conversely you might have a blockage at the fuel intake
    connection on the injector pump,there is a gauze filter there,which
    gunks up preventing the right amount of fuel from reaching the pump.
    Also the fuel tank has got a breather system which should be free of
    blockages one way to check this is to open the fuel tank cap and
    listen out for a marked hissing noise. If you hear this that means
    there is no air pocket above the fuel level helping to increase the
    fuel flow towards the engine.
    I hope this helps you.
    Cheers.

    Bill
    bombo, NSW - Sat 17th September 2011 10:11am (GMT)

 
Subject : transmission won't shift
hi
my name is cliff and i own a 96 nissan mistral and it's a at
trans.sometimes it won't shift past first gear. i already replaced the
gearbox filter and the trans oil using dexron 3 but the problem isn't
solved yet. it doesn't do this evry time i accelerate but it does it
whenever it wants to. can someone please help me???

cliff
amsterdam, nl - Fri 16th September 2011 07:08am (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : transmission won't shift
    Have struck the same problem, especially when cold and you come to a
    stop within a kilonetre of starting out, like at traffic lights. It
    will occasionally stay in first gear. You have to pull over and shift
    the transmission through reverse and then back again.
    It has
    lessened considerably after flushing the whole transmission an putting
    in new fluid.
    This may be the answer for your transmission as
    well, just changing the fluid without flushing every last bit of old
    fluid out may not solve the problem?

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Fri 16th September 2011 08:13pm (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Re : transmission won't shift
      hi john thanks.... but i'f already done that to. can it be a sensor
      problem? if so wich one can it be? i realy like the truck and would
      like to keep it. but if it has a trans problem it would't be any help
      for me. what can i do???

      cliff
      amsterdam, nl - Fri 16th September 2011 11:59pm (GMT)

      • Subject : Re : Re : Re : transmission won't shift
        Intermittent problems are the worst to diagnose.
        Does it happen
        when the engine and transmission are cold, very cold, hot, very hot,
        just after starting, at the end of a long journey, after yo have
        stopped at a traffic light with the trans in "D", after you have
        shifted from D to N and back again etc etc.
        WHEN DOES THE PROBLEM
        OCCUR?

        John
        Christchurch, NZ - Sat 17th September 2011 08:53am (GMT)

        • Subject : Re : Re : Re : Re : transmission won't shift
          it sometimes happens at a cold engine and then again on a hot engine
          it does it when it wants to do it.
          eg: i'm driving for 20
          kilometers already,now i'm pulling over to fill some gas i stop put
          the trans in "p" fill the gas and now i want to drive agian. i put the
          trans in "D" and now it wont shift from the first to the second gear.
          pull over again put the trans i"P" shut the engine start it again put
          it in "D" and now it's shifting all the gears normal. this doesn't
          happen quite often but still is a problem that must be solved.

          cliff
          amsterdam, nl - Sat 17th September 2011 12:55pm (GMT)

          • Subject : Re : Re : Re : Re : Re : transmission won't shift
            I would be suspicious of a small piece of dirt floating around in the
            valve body causing this problem.
            When there is no flow it
            settles, then when there is flow it blocks a passage.
            When you
            shut the engine off, there is no flow, the crap settles in a slightly
            different spot, turn engine on and it may take time before it blocks
            it again.
            That's why I recommended having the whole trans flushed
            properly, or connecting up a supply of fresh fluid to the intake of
            the trans from the radiator cooler, and running the trans output into
            a bucket, and moving the selector at engine idle through all the gears
            manually to try to flush the crap out.
            Only other thing to do is
            see if there is any trouble code stored in the trans
            computer.
            Good luck

            John
            Christchurch, NZ - Sat 17th September 2011 09:49pm (GMT)

            • Subject : Re : Re : Re : Re : Re : Re : transmission won't shift
              Have a look at this
              article.

              http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/archive/index.php/
              t-71657.html

              ALWilson
              07-10-2005, 11:09 AM
              A good
              transmission shop agreed to check the valve body, hard to find a shop
              willing to inspect and determine if a repair was possible, everywhere
              I'd gone before, wanted to rebuild or replace...

              In any event
              there was debris in the 1-2 shift valve and lock-up valve as well.
              They cleaned and overhauled the VB and now it shifts like
              new.

              Al Wilson

              John
              Christchurch, NZ - Sat 17th September 2011 10:05pm (GMT)

 
Subject : wobbly nissan terrano regulus
hi,
it only wobbles now & then.we got the shocks changed & it
still wobbles not as much as before.. it dose'nt start wobbling untill
your over 50kms

Mana Folomu
MANUKAU, Auckland Region, New Zealand - Thu 15th September 2011 05:54am (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : wobbly nissan terrano regulus
    This has been covered before; it is worn out bushes in the suspension
    links, those big steel arms that go from the axle to the chassis under
    the rear seats.
    You can get Nolathane bushes and DIY, or take it
    to a garage and have them do it for you.

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Thu 15th September 2011 11:07am (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Re : wobbly nissan terrano regulus
      Ron from Auckland gave this reply a few queries lower
      down...

      "1996-2000 Pathfinder rear bushing problem
      Nissan
      has issued a TSBS (Technical Service Bulletin) on the issue
      (NTB908-001, NTB098-012), but has not dealt with it as a recall. It is
      an expensive fix ($700-1,400) repair due to faulty control arm
      bushings. A Polyurethane after-market bushing replacement is suggested
      over the OEM part (since it is faulty).[3]
      Their TSB website says:
      "If a 1996-98 Pathfinder exhibits the following conditions, the cause
      may be from worn bushing(s) in the rear suspension upper and/or lower
      links. Excessive play in the rear axle especially during moderate
      acceleration or deceleration. Vehicle pulling at a constant speed.
      Excessive sway and rocking motion in the front suspension when coming
      to a stop. To correct these conditions, use the service procedure on
      page 2"
      Many customers have complained of this issue happening at
      highway speeds 55 mph+ which causes the vehicle to sway back and forth
      dangerously. NTSB "complaint" board has numerous owners that have
      complained about the problem but Nissan has not addressed the design
      flaw or issued notices or recalls to the
      owners.[4]"

      http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan_Pathfinder

      John
      Christchurch - Sat 17th September 2011 08:57am (GMT)

  • Subject : wobbly nissan terrano regulus
    Could be as simple as needing a wheel balance, mine was the same, even
    made a horrible vibration sound at certain speeds. Got a wheel balance
    and its fine now.

    Bevin
    Napier, Hawkes Bay, New Zealand - Tue 14th October 2014 07:29am (GMT)

 
Subject : Nissan Terrano 27TD
Hi,
I have a 1991 Nissan Terrano 27Td (Japanese import). The
radiator remains under pressure when the engine is totally cold. Even
after 4-5 days of no use you open the radiator cap and air escapes to
the expansion tank.
When hot the water gos to the expansion tank,
but then it does not get sucked back into the radiator because of the
pressure, so I need to manually suck the coolant out of the expansion
tank and put it back in the radiator. In a long trip the expansion
tank eventually overflows (does this mean that there is really a lot
of air in the cooling system and it can cook the engine?). I suspect a
problem with the head gasket, but the leak must be super small because
it only lets the air through from the cylinder to the cooling system
(very high pressure). Then the air stays trapped in the cooling system
for days when the engine is off and cold.
Is it going to get
worst?
I do not want to spend a lot of money on this old car (it
has done 170000k). Any suggestions/ideas?

max
brisbane, qld, australia - Tue 13th September 2011 05:51am (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : Nissan Terrano 27TD
    Sounds very much like a head gasket . Only takes tiny tiny hairline
    crack to let gases into the cooling system .look at the post a few
    down from this one . If you take your radiator cap off ( make sure
    engine cool )and then start your engine you can somtimes see bubbles
    in the radiator . Second hand engine may be cheaper option .


    Steve

    Steve
    nz - Tue 13th September 2011 07:25am (GMT)

 
Subject : nissan navara 2005
The engine all ok, but after I've travelled approx 65 miles the engine
goes into idle mode, pull over turn off for 5 mins, then is good for
another 65 miles then will go into idle again and so on this happened
3 times on my journey home, please help

raphael
leicester - Mon 12th September 2011 05:58pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : nissan navara 2005
    get codes scanned at Nissan dealer.
    fred
    UK - Fri 16th September 2011 07:02am (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Re : nissan navara 2005
      Before you get crushed by a lorry when you can't accelerate out of
      it's way.

      Fred
      lower botswana - Fri 16th September 2011 07:03am (GMT)

 
Subject : nissan navara 2005
The engine all ok, but after I've travelled approx 65 miles the engine
goes into idle mode, pull over turn off for 5 mins, then is good for
another 65 miles then will go into idle again and so on this happened
3 times on my journey home, please help

raphael
leicester - Mon 12th September 2011 05:58pm (GMT)
 
Subject : overheating
Hi there i recently bought a 2001 Nissan Terrano II & it is
overheating very quickly & is under high pressure after 30 secs, i
have drained it flushed & filled up but it still overheats & has a
serious pressure on the pipes
Is this a waterpump or is there an
air block if so where is the drain valve.

john miller
Glasgow, lanarkshire, UK - Sat 10th September 2011 07:37pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : overheating
    Unfortunately you have described the classic symptoms of a blown head
    gasket.

    If you bought the vehicle from a motor vehicle dealer
    and it has any form of warranty, go back and ask them to fix
    it.

    If you bought it privately off a stranger in a pub car
    park, you are going to have to spend serious money to fix
    it.

    It may be cheaper in the long run to buy a second hand
    good engine and fit that, rather than overhaul the one you have
    now.

    Diesel engines are tough, but once overheated can be
    very expensive to fix.

    At the minimum you are looking at
    having the head taken off, disassembled, skimmed to straighten it,
    reassembled, the block probably having to be skimmed straight, and new
    a new head gasket fitted.

    I would replace the thermostat too,
    as it has been subject to temperatures well in excess of what it was
    designed for, plus new radiator hoses for the same reason.

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Sun 11th September 2011 01:09am (GMT)

 
Subject : Fumes in car.
Hi I have a 93 Terrano Sport.My problem is fumes in the car which
appear to be worse on the passenger side.I have carried out all the
obvious checks and also had the exhaust etc. checked by an exhaust
installer and also my usual garage,but to no avail as they could find
nothing wrong.The exhaust appears to be relatively new (I have only
recently purchased the car) with just 62000 mls. on the clock.The
fumes appear to be worse when the window is open. Any help would be
much appreciated.

bob
pontypridd, wales, UK - Fri 09th September 2011 09:01pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : Fumes in car.
    Hi. If the whole of the exhaust system checked out o.k.I would be
    looking at whether the tailpipe protrudes past the rear bumperbar
    which ensures that the spent gases get expelled away from the car body
    and not sucked back into it through any openings.

    Ralph
    newcastle, nsw, Australia - Fri 09th September 2011 11:03pm (GMT)

  • Subject : Re : Fumes in car.
    See also my earlier info re fumes being sucked up through the
    handbrake area/shifter area if the windows are open while travelling
    at speed. The smell of hot engine and gearbox oil, and just plain hot
    air off the exhaust, gearbox and engine.
    Crawl under and look up
    where the handbrake/shifter are, you may be surprised at how much
    light you can see alongside them when you look up into the passenger
    compartment.

    John
    - Christchurch - Sat 10th September 2011 11:07am (GMT)

 
Subject : sizes of fuel pipes?
just had to replace a bit of fuel pipe temporarily on my import Nissan
Mistral 2.7 TD (1995)(diesel leaking -money down the drain !!) I
looked at the fuel lines and it seems as if there are two different
sizes? Is this right, and if so, what size/lengths of pipe do I need
to replace the lot from front to back?

cheers me dears

Steve Scott
Quakies, Durham, UK - Thu 08th September 2011 06:25pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : sizes of fuel pipes?
    Use calipers and measure the outside diameter of the pip. Then measure
    the inside diameter of the pipe. Them measure the length of the
    pipe.
    Then you will know what length and what size to
    buy.

    In fact, why not try a brake repair place, they have the
    skill to bend the pipes in an exact copy of your old ones.

    I
    hope this helps, because you won't find that pipe available at your
    dealers for you to buy off the shelf.

    Fred
    Upper Lower Botswana - Fri 09th September 2011 08:44am (GMT)

 
Subject : 2001 Nissan Pathfinder
how do you tell if you have a bad sensor for your ATP. My light is on
i did all the necessary checks.

Michael Fletcher
Raleigh, NC, USA - Tue 06th September 2011 03:18am (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : 2001 Nissan Pathfinder
    What about disconnecting the battery for 30 minutes, then reconnecting
    it and seeing if the fault still shows up? (The disconnection of the
    battery "resets" the computers in the vehicle.)

    If the fault
    reoccurs then either the sensor is at fault, or there is something
    wrong with the auto.

    One of the quickest ways is to replace
    the suspect sensor with a known good one and see if the "fault" still
    occurs.

    If the fault reoccurs then either the sensor is at
    fault, or there is something wrong with the auto.

    I have had
    that warning light come on once before, and that was as a result
    of
    towing a heavy trailer in hot weather on steep
    hills.

    It was trying to tell me that the fluid was
    overheating dangerously.

    If you haven't done so recently,
    replace the fluid and filter and flush it all out.


    http://www.autoshop101.com/techarticles/technicalarticles.ht
    ml#AT

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Tue 06th September 2011 05:44pm (GMT)

 
Subject : i have a yellow engine light on and a red battery light on does anyone know why

karen nixon
filton, bristol, UK - Mon 05th September 2011 05:11pm (GMT)
 
Subject : terrano exhaust 2.7tdi auto
Flexi has blown on downpipe how is pipe removed does gearbox support
have to be dropped

David Allan
Old Kilpatrick, West Dunbartonshire, UK - Wed 31st August 2011 02:59pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : terrano exhaust 2.7tdi auto
    Hello: I had my flex section replaced by an exhaust shop,all they did
    was to cut the old flex out and weld the new one in. I guess you can
    also cut your old flex and rejoin the pipe ends with a new clamp-on
    flex section of the right diameter without the need to remove the
    engine pipe and don't forget to use muffler putty at the joints for a
    better seal.
    Good luck.

    will
    elura, nsw, Australia - Thu 01st September 2011 01:53am (GMT)

 
Subject : Hi, my Nissan Largo GSX Speedo is not working, can someone help
Hi, my Nissan Largo GSX Speedo is not working, can someone help? I
have checked the speedo and seems the the connectors are ok under the
dash. Could be the tachometer?? But hoping a guru can steers me in the
right direction. Sorry one more question where do I top up the
automatic transmission oil?

Thank you

Hector Forbes
Manukau, Auckland, New Zealand - Sun 28th August 2011 10:58am (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : Hi, my Nissan Largo GSX Speedo is not working, can someone help
    Check the electrical connections from the auto trans which are
    accessible under the van. Take the connectors apart, squirt electrical
    contact cleaner in them, put them back together. Don't just look at
    them, that will tell you nothing.
    While you are under there trace
    the dipstick tube from where it enters the pan to where it ends at the
    top of the engine compartment. At the top end should be a dipstick
    inside the tube. Withdraw the dipstick and carefully dribble or squirt
    trans fluid down that hole.
    If you have any doubts, go to a
    mechanic.

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Tue 30th August 2011 10:36pm (GMT)

 
Subject : hard start
Please advise - My 1994 Nissan Mistral has which I have been driving
since Dec.2005 recently developed a strange behaviour. It takes three
or four ignitions to start the engine in the morning. A mechanic
replaced the spark plugs recently but the habit has not abated.

JUSTUS MUHANGUZI KAMPE
- uganda - Thu 25th August 2011 12:29pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : hard start
    Do you have a diesel engine, or has your Mistral got a petrol
    engine?

    If it has a diesel, it has no spark plugs. It has
    glow plugs. Sometimes the wiring from the glow plug timer breaks, and
    then the glowplugs do not work well, or at all.
    If you have
    whitish smoke coming out of the exhaust when you try to start the
    vehicle, most likely it is a glow plug wiring problem.
    I have seen
    another post on this site with the same problem.
    You will probably
    be able to find it, too.

    Fred
    Lower Zambesi - Fri 26th August 2011 09:14am (GMT)

 
Subject : Rough Idle
Can someone please help?? I have a 1997 nissan terrano R3 with a QD32.
It starts and runs fine, has 239000km on the clock, fuel filter been
replaced, when you put it in drive or reverse, the whole vehicle is
shaking. Idle speed is 650rpm @ idle in park. I am a diesel mechanic,
checked engine/trans mounts and all appear to be fine. Just feels like
its idling too low when in gear. Any help would be appreciated. There
is no vibration above 800rpm and is smooth running. Cheers.

John
Blenheim, Marlborough, NZ - Thu 25th August 2011 08:12am (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : Rough Idle
    Hi we have the same model and it can sometimes shudder when you pull
    up at the lights or an intersection . It can be bad enough that if
    waiting long you put it in neutral .As soon as you get a few revs on
    and start moving its fine . Have read on some other forum that it may
    be the type of oil in the auto trans and it said that using genuine
    nissan trans oil can help the shudder .Dont know how or why and bet
    its twice as dear as normal auto trans oil . Not sure if this is the
    same problem as you have got but worth a mention .

    steve
    ashburton, nz, UK - Thu 25th August 2011 10:03am (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Re : Rough Idle
      Hi Steve.....yes very interesting.... It is the same
      problem.

      The only difference with the Nissan trans oil would
      be the additive package. This ones got me stumped. I've been a
      mechanic for 27 years and cant pin point it. Even though my idle speed
      is a little low compared to spec it still shouldn't shudder. I am
      going to call ATP (automatic transmission parts) in Christchurch
      today, they are excellent at diagnosing over the phone and can tell me
      the correct oil to use or any known problems. Oh and by the way, I was
      having engine surging problems at around 90-110kmph and found the hose
      from the air filter housing to the turbo inlet had split. When I went
      to buy a new one the parts guy said he sells 3-4 a week and it's a
      commomn problem with this model, so check yours before you "dust" the
      engine. Cheers

      John
      Blenheim, Marlborough, NZ - Thu 25th August 2011 08:31pm (GMT)

      • Subject : Re : Re : Re : Rough Idle
        Yea if you read my post way back about 6 months ago I had the same
        problem . Was changing the air filter when I noticed it had the split
        in the intake pipe . Not good for your engine . not sure how long it
        had been split for . Engine done 200 000 and uses no oil so cant of
        been long .

        cheers

        steve
        ashburton, nz - Fri 26th August 2011 01:15am (GMT)

  • Subject : Re : Rough Idle
    Hi, This sounds like a problem the Pathfinder had with bushes. You may
    need to replace the rear ones, I found this on Wikipedia (link
    follows)

    "1996-2000 Pathfinder rear bushing
    problem
    Nissan has issued a TSBS (Technical Service Bulletin) on
    the issue (NTB908-001, NTB098-012), but has not dealt with it as a
    recall. It is an expensive fix ($700-1,400) repair due to faulty
    control arm bushings. A Polyurethane after-market bushing replacement
    is suggested over the OEM part (since it is faulty).[3]
    Their TSB
    website says: "If a 1996-98 Pathfinder exhibits the following
    conditions, the cause may be from worn bushing(s) in the rear
    suspension upper and/or lower links. Excessive play in the rear axle
    especially during moderate acceleration or deceleration. Vehicle
    pulling at a constant speed. Excessive sway and rocking motion in the
    front suspension when coming to a stop. To correct these conditions,
    use the service procedure on page 2"
    Many customers have
    complained of this issue happening at highway speeds 55 mph+ which
    causes the vehicle to sway back and forth dangerously. NTSB
    "complaint" board has numerous owners that have complained about the
    problem but Nissan has not addressed the design flaw or issued notices
    or recalls to the
    owners.[4]"

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan_Pathfinder r>
    Hope this helps

    Ron
    Hamilton, New Zealand - Thu 15th September 2011 11:02pm (GMT)

  • Subject : Re : Rough Idle
    gday .having same ruff idle as you.having auto sticking probs 2.have
    recently flushed auto -with non nissan oil at mates garage.i am
    suspisious of the box.how did you get on?any luck with contacting ATP
    in CHCH?had 2 replace injector pump afew months ago.big drama until i
    found a south african diesel mechanic whos a wiz.my cars a Q32.Last 2
    cars were earlier terranos.slowly finding out how they work.fone 04
    3884138 if u want info etc.cheers howard

    howard rait
    wellington, nz - Tue 07th February 2012 08:59am (GMT)

  • Subject : Rough Idle
    Hi, I have the same car and engine and the same problem, I think it
    should idle at 800, can you please email me on gourmet@ihug.co.nz and
    advise me what you have come up with?
    Much appreciated.

    Leonard
    Pukekohe, New Zealand - Sat 11th August 2012 02:02am (GMT)

  • Subject : Rough Idle
    same problem with r50 QD32 and investigating
    sergi
    blenheim, marlborough, new zealand - Wed 16th January 2013 08:25am (GMT)

 
Subject : Nissan TD27 Power Steering Pump
My pump keeps sending the fluid back into the reservoir and spitting
it out under the reservoir cap. I would like to know how i could
repair my pump.Please.

Rowan
Kingston, Jamaica W.I. - Tue 23rd August 2011 02:53pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : Nissan TD27 Power Steering Pump
    Take you power steering reservoir off the vehicle. Clean it out. Clean
    the screen filter inside it.
    Read the earlier posts on this site
    re flushing out the old fluid and replacing it with new.
    Flush
    system, replace clean reservoir in the circuit.
    If that does not
    stop it spitting back, look for air leaks in the system.

    Fred
    Mid Botswana - Wed 24th August 2011 10:53am (GMT)

 
Subject : Nissan Mistral 1994 Turbo Diesel
Hi there
I have got a Nissan Mistral 1994 Disesel Turbo. Whenever
i am driving this vehicle on the plane road, it drives well, but
whenever i go on the hilly road it loosses the power even it's not too
hilly and i can't drive more than 60 km/h. I thought it could be a
problem of Turbo. So i got it checked by the three machanics and they
changed the oil filter, air filter and checked the Turbo and disel
tank. But still i am getting the same problem. Can anybody help me
out.





Prat
auckland, auckland, New Zealand - Mon 22nd August 2011 05:19am (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : Nissan Mistral 1994 Turbo Diesel
    I have read all of this site and I think you will find the answer. All
    you have to do is read the site. If you read the site, you will find
    some answers. There are some answers for your question on this site.
    All you have to do is read it.
    Enjoy reading, Prat.

    Fred
    Lower Botswana - Mon 22nd August 2011 11:10am (GMT)

 
Subject : Nissan Terrano VG33
Hi a Nissan Terrano just stopped as we were driving in the night
covering about 10km in winter.The upper radiater horse just came out
and water splashed and the car automatically switched off and it
couldnt start.water was replaced and we drove.later started leaking
from the water pump.oil is still clean and clear.Do we need to change
cylinder head Gasket?

Muleya Kizito
Kaoma, Zambia, Zambia - Fri 19th August 2011 08:21am (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : Nissan Terrano VG33
    Sounds like you need a new water pump. Then drive the vehicle
    carefully checking that no water is going into the oil, or oil into
    the water.
    If there is no mixing of the two, and the vehicle
    behaves like it did before the hose came off, you have been extremely
    lucky.
    I put two worm drive clips on each end of the big hoses to
    stop them slipping off.
    Good luck.

    Fred
    Upper Botswana - Fri 19th August 2011 08:47am (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Re : Nissan Terrano VG33
      Thank you so much man, i did replace the water pump and like you said
      there is no mixing of oil and water and the car is behaving as before.
      The only problem is that the belts after removing them, have started
      making a squicking sound. Could they be to tight

      Muleya Kizito
      Kaoma, Western, Zambia - Wed 31st August 2011 04:34pm (GMT)

      • Subject : Re : Re : Re : Nissan Terrano VG33
        If you replace the water pump it is also usual to replace all three v
        belts at the same time.
        That sound is probably a fan belt that is
        now very clean after having all that hot water and long life coolant
        wash away the usual oil and dust on the belts.
        If the belts are
        not worn out, use a crayon on the V part (both sides) when the engine
        is stopped. The squeaking should then stop.
        Otherwise you may need
        to tighten the belts a little more; not too tight as that puts too
        much pressure on the water pump shaft/alternator bearings/power
        steering pump/ a/c pump bearings.
        If in doubt, replace the
        belts....

        Fred
        Upper Botswana - Thu 01st September 2011 12:45pm (GMT)

 
Subject : owners manual
Hi , i NEED AN OWNERS MANUAL FOR A 1994 nissan hardbody LWB 2.7 dt 4 x
4

Andrew
johannesburg, gauteng, south Africa - Thu 18th August 2011 01:34pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : owners manual

    kennedy msiska
    lilongwe, malawi, malawi - Wed 21st September 2011 11:41am (GMT)

 
Subject : wont rev and lack of power with blue smoke
Hi I have a 1994 terrano 2.7 tdi and recently on a journey i noticed a
major loss of power and black smoke. I removed the air filter and
continued the journey which seemed to help. Then on the second journey
which started fine the loss came back and the smoke was now blue/white
and lots of it when revving but the vehicle wont rev over 2000/2500
rpm.

Chris Severs
Coventry, UK - Tue 16th August 2011 04:24pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : wont rev and lack of power with blue smoke
    Also check your radiator water level..white smoke is a sign of
    incomplete burning of the fuel, or a sign of water in the combustion
    chambers.
    Check cold engine with radiator cap off...large
    bubbles/gouts of water out of the radiator point toward cracked head
    or head gasket problems.

    CHECK oil level in sump...if your
    turbo has blown a seal, you could get a "runaway"
    engine.

    READ, READ, READ this site from end to end......

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Tue 16th August 2011 09:46pm (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Re : wont rev and lack of power with blue smoke
      Thanks for the reply. I have sorted the fuel filter and added an
      injector cleaner additive to the fuel the levels seem fine and there
      is no contamination of oil to water or water to oil. However now I
      have played with the fuel supply it has now incereased and i can get
      it to full revs if i open the throttle and pump the filter manually
      this leaves me to believe that the gauze i the pump is the culprit
      however I am a little vague as to where this is. If you could be a
      little more specific I would appreciate it and anything like photos
      would be a massive help. BTW I read previous posts with the same
      issues and really think this is the problem I am having I just cant
      see where exactly this filter is. Many thanks

      Chris Se ers
      Coventry, UK - Tue 16th August 2011 10:57pm (GMT)

      • Subject : Re : Re : Re : wont rev and lack of power with blue smoke
        Just like to add I removed A banjo bolt from the metal fuel line going
        into the pump today which was on the front of the pump (radiator
        orientated) which travels around the back of the pump from where the
        rubber line connects to it. However when I removed this bolt there was
        a spring underneath but no gauze.

        Chris Severs
        Coventry, UK - Tue 16th August 2011 11:10pm (GMT)

        • Subject : Re : Re : Re : Re : wont rev and lack of power with blue smoke
          OK, trace the fuel line from the fuel filter to where it enters the
          injection pump. That banjo bolt is the one to undo.Sometimes there is
          a gauze filter there, sometimes there isn't.
          If there is not, crap
          may have got into the pump or travelled through to the
          injectors.
          Try driving some distance and see if the injector
          cleaner clears any blockages.
          Good luck

          John
          Christchurch, NZ - Wed 17th August 2011 12:13am (GMT)

  • Subject : Re : wont rev and lack of power with blue smoke
    hi, my terrano did the same, took it to a Auto Electrician, problem
    was the Accelerator pump sensor, put one in and has not missed a beat
    since, hope this helps, good luck.

    Murray
    Nelson, NZ - Wed 24th August 2011 09:56am (GMT)

 
Subject : T2 Radio problem
Hi there
With hope you can help me sort this issue
out.
Driving back yesterday through the country lanes my radio
stopped working, it stopped after i went round a bumpy corner. There
was a higher audible sound that come from the rear off side speaker. I
pulled over further up the road, after checking fuse etc still
nothing. Its almost like there is no power.
The point being i am
lost without it. Please help

Glen
Sittingbourne, Kent, UK - Mon 15th August 2011 11:32am (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : T2 Radio problem
    Harden up that man!!!
    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Mon 15th August 2011 01:38pm (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Re : T2 Radio problem
      go do one, i just want to find out what the problem could
      be!

      As for the manning up bit, why dont you grow some!


      - Mon 15th August 2011 09:53pm (GMT)

      • Subject : Re : Re : Re : T2 Radio problem
        If you drove over a bump and "lost power" I would be taking the radio
        out of the dash and jumpering 12volts onto the input,or using a DVM
        (digital volt meter) to check the voltage reaching the radio.
        If
        voltage is reaching the radio, suspect a broken circuit board in the
        radio.
        The harden up comment was to see if you were genuine.

        John
        Christchurch, NZ - Tue 16th August 2011 01:20am (GMT)

        • Subject : Re : Re : Re : Re : T2 Radio problem
          Many thanks, took the unit out and whilst doing so the radio came on.
          So simple, as it was a loose connection.
          Amazes me though that a
          4x2 can actually have that problem, what with bumps and stuff!
          Any
          how now i can drive and listen to the radio again.
          Cheers


          UK - Tue 16th August 2011 07:47pm (GMT)

 
Subject : busted terrano needing love
i ave a auto 94 petrol terrano,recently gears paying up and not
clicking in2 gear just reving high, insteadof driing to a garage huby
droveit till it died, now it wnt start like there is no
spark.....truck still in good ondition got more kms lft 2 do bt ow
much dmage as hubby done by not getting it fixed sooner rather then
later, or in this case til it dont go....any suggestions are better
then none.

sheryl
lumsden, nz - Mon 15th August 2011 01:07am (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : busted terrano needing love
    I presume you have the v6 Terrano, with auto transmission?
    The
    engines are usually very reliable, but they have a couple of things
    known to go wrong. First is the MAF sensor which periodically needs a
    clean, or if dead, needs replacement.
    The auto trans at minimum
    will need new fluid and filter.
    Your husband has really got no
    sympathy from me for not fixing things as they break down.
    When
    the snow clears, tow it to your local garage and let them have a
    look.
    Disconnect the rear drive shaft before towing, as you don't
    want to do more damage to the trans.
    Oh, get your husband to drive
    the truck as it is being towed, since with no power steering or brakes
    it will take all his strength to guide it.
    Good luck.

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Mon 15th August 2011 02:54am (GMT)

 
Subject : nissan largo
i have a nissan largo automatic diesel 2.0 and when i turn the
ignition off,the engine still carries on running til i put my foot on
the break,then it stops,or i can leave it for two minutes and it stops
itself..can someone please advise me before i spend a fortune at the
garage...many thanks

ange
i.o.w, UK - Sun 14th August 2011 06:33pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : nissan largo
    Have you just bought this vehicle?
    When did this "symptom"
    happen?
    Do you think there might be a turbo timer fitted which
    automatically keeps the engine going after switch off?
    When you
    say "it runs until I put my foot on the brake" are you saying that as
    soon as you touch the brake pedal with your foot, the engine switches
    off?
    If so, that more or less confirms a "wired in" turbo timer
    cutting out when someone tries to drive the van after the key has been
    withdrawn from the ignition. (Safety/anti theft solution)
    Suggest
    you time the exact length of time the engine runs after you "switch
    off" and if it is a precise length of time each time, almost certainly
    you have a timer built into the circuit somewhere.

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Sun 14th August 2011 08:39pm (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Re : nissan largo
      hi.thank you 4 trying to help me..and yes,the engine stops as soon as
      i touch the break,so i wil try to time it exact tomoro..and go on from
      there....

      ange
      iow, UK - Mon 15th August 2011 01:33am (GMT)

 
Subject : swopping tyres
can someone advise me as to whether or not my diff will be damaged if
i swop my front tyres with my back tyres, the front tyres are not from
same manufac, but are the same size...back tyres are newer

angus
knysna, wcape, rsa - Sun 14th August 2011 08:19am (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : swopping tyres
    It doesn't matter who makes the tyres.. it matters what the
    circumference of the tyres is...and that only matters when you are in
    4WD.
    If you are in permanent 4WD, then it can make a difference if
    you drive on non slip surfaces.

    As long as each axle has
    tyres more or less the same size and type, and more or less the same
    circumference front and rear when in 4WD, you'll be
    fine.

    Remember, the back diff compensates for turning left
    and right, and copes easily with minor differences in tyre
    circumference, say the difference between a worn tyre and a new
    tyre.

    The front diff does the same. It is the central diff
    that can have a hard time in permanent 4WD.

    Part time 4WD,
    that you have to select with a lever, should only be used on surfaces
    that slip.

    Simple answer, don't worry, be happy with four
    tyres about the same circumference.

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Sun 14th August 2011 01:07pm (GMT)

 
Subject : Dash failure
I have a D21 1994 and a couple of weeks ago all the warning lights
failed to come on also the rev counter and speedo have stopped
working, I've checked all fuses swap[ed relays and still nothing! The
pickup still starts and runs fine all lights, indicators and wipers
work, it's just the dash? One day working next stopped! Any ideas
would be gratefully appreciated. cheers Garry.

Garry Collins
Ipswich, Suffolk, UK - Wed 10th August 2011 12:01pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : Dash failure
    I'm not familiar with your car model but I think that you may have
    issues with the electrical connection on the back of your
    dashboard,namely the actual plug or harness,which could be loose or
    damaged and also broken wires or earth connections loose or dirty.
    There is also a chance the circuitry in the dashboard could be
    faulty.
    Good luck.

    Frank
    Liverpool, NSW, Sydney - Thu 11th August 2011 12:09am (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Re : Dash failure
      Thanks for the reply Frank, But i have checked all the connections and
      wiring but found that it all looked OK! There are a couple of things
      that still work, namely the indicator lights and the high beam light!
      Does any one know if there is a relay for the dash and if so wre it is
      located?
      Cheers Garry.

      Garry Collins
      Ipswich, Suffolk, UK - Fri 12th August 2011 09:12am (GMT)

      • Subject : Re : Re : Re : Dash failure
        Gary, "looks alright" is a world different than "is alright".
        The
        only way to get a result here is to take each electrical connector
        apart, spray it with contact cleaner, and put it back together
        again.

        Then you get a multimeter and check if there is
        voltage on both sides of the connector.

        Then you "know" there
        is a good connection.

        Otherwise you are P***ing into the
        wind.

        Good luck.


        John
        Christchurch, NZ - Sun 14th August 2011 08:47pm (GMT)

 
Subject : L200 stuck in 2wd
cant figure out what is causing my L200 to stick in 2wd, tho it does
go into 4wd but dont engage. Ideas please.

char
chichester, west sussex, UK - Tue 09th August 2011 01:06pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : L200 stuck in 2wd
    I presume this is a MITSUBISHI L200?
    As a mere Nissan driving
    person, IMHO, the cause may have to do with the shifter linkage being
    clogged with crap/rusted.
    Crawl under the vehicle, engine of, key
    in your pocket, and have a friend move the shifter and see what
    movements the shifter mechanism makes under there.
    Be generous
    with a degreaser and later with spray lubricant, and move that shifter
    back and forth until it moves smoothly and to the full extent of
    travel.
    She should be jake then.

    P.S. Nissans rarely have
    these problems if the shifter is exercised once a month.
    This MAY
    apply to Mitsi's as well????
    Good luck.

    PPS. When was the
    last time you drained the H/L box and put in fresh fluid? Hopefully
    after every time in water deep enough to reach your door
    handles...
    Your neighbour may allow you to do this on his front
    lawn if you ask nicely???

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Wed 10th August 2011 11:10am (GMT)

 
Subject : nissan terrano QD32
hi my nissan terrano 1996 QD32 has developed a problem,i reversed it
out of the garage was running fine then stalled?tryed to start it but
engine turned slowly!thought it may be battery so bought a new
one!still turned over slowly.bought a new starter motor,still the same
problem.does anyone have any suggestions as to whats wrong.cheers tony

tony
whangarei, northland, newzealand - Mon 08th August 2011 08:47am (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : nissan terrano QD32
    The battery relies on the earth cables between the engine and the body
    shell to provide a return path for the
    electrickery.

    Therefore, if you have a good battery, and a
    good starter motor, the only thing left to complete the circuit is the
    grounding straps.

    Take them off the body and the engine,
    check for no breaks, and then clean the contact points, especially on
    the body with sandpaper until bright shiny metal shows.

    Use
    copper grease or similar and bolt the straps back into
    position.

    I think it will go well then.
    Hope you kept the
    old battery and starter motor????

    Good luck, and I hate to
    say this, but this lack of good grounding in the Terrano and Mistral
    has been covered previously in this site.

    Please tell us how
    you get on???

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Mon 08th August 2011 11:42am (GMT)

 
Subject : Nissan Minstrel
Please can anyone help me. I am looking at buying a 1995 model at
action. Do they have a cam belt or chain?
Thanks

Chrissy
Hastings, NZ - Mon 08th August 2011 07:26am (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : Nissan Minstrel
    Nissan MISTRAL has neither a cambelt nor a cam chain.

    The
    drive is a gearset, one cog driving another all the way to the
    overhead camshaft in the head.

    That's why they are the engine
    used in modern London Black cabs....they last nearly forever, if you
    change the engine oil and oil filter regularly.

    Read this
    site from end to end.
    They are not a sports car, but they will
    give years of good service if well looked after.

    GET A DIESEL
    MECHANIC to check this vehicle before the auction, unless you know who
    the owners were, and trust them and their maintenance...

    If
    you buy the vehicle, change all fluids and filters BEFORE you start
    flogging it all round the countryside.

    Cheers.


    Ed
    Bristol, UK - Mon 08th August 2011 11:57am (GMT)

 
Subject : 1995 mistral auto
Wanting to change my trans.fluid.Anybody know which type of oil and
what quantity.

Tom Hull
Auckland, nz - Mon 08th August 2011 03:01am (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : 1995 mistral auto
    Dexron 3 or it's equivalent.

    DO NOT try Dexron 6, it does
    not work well at all.

    Take the bottom pan off the trans, take
    the filter out, prize (don't saw) it open and check for particles,
    place new filter in position, clean pan and check cleanliness of
    magnet on bottom, place new gasket carefully in position, refill with
    Dex3 through filler tube.

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Mon 08th August 2011 11:48am (GMT)

 
Subject : Mistral Engine Surging
We have a 94/95 Mistral with the TD27 engine. Over the last couple of
days it has been "surging". This only seems to happen when at about
70 km/h, when we must be in about 4th gear. The revs drop about
200rpm and the truck gets sluggish, then rise again a few seconds
later, then fall again a few seconds later. Apparently it is blowing
a bit of blcak smoke as it does this (it has always blown a wee bit of
smoke when you are accelerating hard or when you start it cold). At
the same time, it seems to be running very hot and it appears to me
that the exhaust is quite hot. It sounds and feels hot after youve
stopped and it smells a bit.
Ive always been a bit suspect of
whther the turbo works properly, as theres no real noise or boost in
power when youd expect it would be cutting in. Could that be
contributing? would appreciate any advice - especially from you John
as you seem to know your stuff. Cheers. Duncan

Duncan Roxborough
Christchurch, NZ - Thu 04th August 2011 02:37am (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : Mistral Engine Surging
    Check all air passages from the intake through the filter to the turbo
    to the inter cooler and then to the manifold. You are looking for
    blockages or rips and tears in the hoses/ducts.
    If you haven't
    done so recently, throw a new air filter at it.

    No change,
    then it's time to look at the fuel system. See what I wrote a couple
    of days ago. That algae is shit.

    Still no change? See a
    diesel expert and have the fault codes read.

    Possibly
    injector No.1 lift sensor or fault in top seal of injection pump.
    Both previously covered on this site.

    Good luck

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Thu 04th August 2011 09:33am (GMT)

  • Subject : Re : Mistral Engine Surging
    Found this on another forum dealing with diesels on boats.
    "White
    smoke is actually vaporized diesel fuel, it is not really white, it is
    clear but the refraction of light makes it look white. This is why
    water in the atmosphere makes white clouds.

    When the engine
    is cold and/or compression is low, as during a start, the governor
    supplies a large quantity of fuel as it attempts to bring the engine
    up to idle speed or whatever is selected. Because the inlet air is
    cold (relatively) and much of the fuel is not vaporized completely and
    does not reach a high enough temperature to ignite, it leaves as
    microscopic drops that appear white.

    When a hot engine
    receives more fuel than it can burn as in an overload condition or if
    there is some obstruction to charge air delivery, the fuel is heated
    enough to form carbon particles - soot. But since the combustion
    chamber lacks enough oxygen to combust completely, the unburned carbon
    particles leave as a dark cloud."

    A very good, simple
    explanation of the "smoke" at start up and under load/acceleration.

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Sat 06th August 2011 03:02pm (GMT)

  • Subject : Re : Mistral Engine Surging
    Thanks for your responses John. Bit more info - it was also surging
    at low speeds when under low load. It varies a bit, sometimes it does
    , sometimes not. The smoke when it seems to die slightly is probabbly
    more of a grey colour. Ive checked the turbo and its going fine. I
    changed the air filter. Cant seem to locate a fuel filter at the
    moment, they are all out of stock. Ive been really suspect of a valve
    on the inlet, after the turbo but just before it drops onto the
    manifold (ours is not intercooled). It never seems to move when i rev
    it. I got the TD27 manual from the libaray and some other diagrams
    off the net for the emission control system. Ours doesnt match any of
    the published diagrams. We have 3 solenoid valves, one of them
    without a filter but with a hose instead. Ive played around with it
    and the EGR valve seems to work as it should (i think), but i still
    suspect that throttle control valve. Ive taken off the vaccum hose
    that goes from the alternator vaccumm pump to the solenoid valves, and
    plugged it. Truck seems to go better than ever before, better
    throttle repsonse, no more surging, and less smoke than weve had
    before - unless i am dreaming. I think i still need to take it in to
    diesel mechanic so they can diagnose the problem. Meantime im
    assuming that its no harm driving it like this. Anyone else had
    similar issue?

    Duncan
    Christchurch, NZ - Sun 07th August 2011 08:07am (GMT)

 
Subject : Gas smell

On my 1996 tarrno 2 there is like a gasy smell comign from it
sometimes, when warm not necessary when im pulling just in normal
drive! and its not all of the time can anyone help?.

Mike playfoot
Leicester, Leicestershire, UK - Mon 01st August 2011 10:51pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : Gas smell
    Do you have the windows open, or the sunroof open on a sunny hot day
    to cool things down?
    This creates a slight negative pressure
    within the passenger area which can draw hot air from around the
    transmission tunnel, specifically through the auto selector/handbrake
    openings, which has the smell of hot engine, oil, anti feezee, auto
    trans fluid and cowshit, if you happen to have driven over
    it.
    Cowshit smells are quite distinctive, the others can be
    subtle.
    Solution; wear gas mask if you have the windows or sunroof
    open; or close windows and sunroof, turn on a/c, put air intake on
    fresh air and fan speed on medium, thereby pressurising the , filtered
    air, and hopefully eliminating the gassy smell from the
    vehicle.
    Now concentrate on the passengers and what they had for
    lunch if you can still smell that gassy smell.

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Tue 02nd August 2011 05:26am (GMT)

 
Subject : 1994 Nissan Mistral Sudden Shake/ Jerk
Hello There
Hopefully someone will be able to help me out. I
have a 1994 Nissan Mistral and recently it has started to Kick/Jerk
and shake violently when i drive between 80 -110 Km/hr. This does not
happen continuously but at random times when ever i drive between 80
to 110km/hr.

I have changed the fuel filter thinking it may
have been clogged and enough fuel was not passing though but today
while on a long drive it started to jerk and kick, i have to take my
leg off the accelerator for Shaking/kick to stop.

Has this
happen to anyone else..
Any help will be greatly
appreciated..

cheers
Sandeep

Sandeep Nair
Auckland, Waitakere, NZ - Mon 01st August 2011 10:10am (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : 1994 Nissan Mistral Sudden Shake/ Jerk
    When you took the fuel filter off, did you try to cut it open with
    hacksaw to see what the inside looked like?
    I ask this because
    when my diesael engine would not rev over 3500 and felt like it was
    "choking" with hardly enough power to pull the skin off a rice
    pudding, sectioning the fuel filter showed black crud throughout the
    paper filter elements, and an algae- like substance in the bottom of
    the filter.
    Did you clean the white plastic cap and drain when you
    changed the filter? Any crud in it?

    If there was enough crud,
    follow the fuel line from the filter to the injection pump. Where the
    line enters the injection pump there is a banjo bolt.
    Undo this
    bolt, save the copper washer that is on both sides of the connector
    through which this botl screws, and check for a very fine gauze filter
    under the bolt.
    Take this out and scrupulously clean it.
    If
    there is crud on it, put something under the fuel line end and pump a
    litre or so of fuel using the pump on the fuel filter to flush the
    line to the pump.
    Refit the washers and bolt, pump like crazy on
    the fuel filter pump until you cannot pump any more, then start the
    engine and rev to 2500 and hold there for a minute or so to eliminate
    all air bubbles in the injection system.
    The black crud is algae,
    put a fuel conditioner in the tank, follow the directions, then put
    another clean filter in when recommended to do so, and every year
    thereafter.
    Keep your diesel level up over half, there is less
    air/condensation in the fuel tank, and less algae growth.
    In large
    diesel tanks on locomotives they have to take the algae off with a
    spade...
    Problem hopefully solved. Otherwise it's time to clean
    the injectors/injection pump.

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Tue 02nd August 2011 05:42am (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Re : 1994 Nissan Mistral Sudden Shake/ Jerk
      Hey thanks for the reply.. We did put the old filter on a vice and had
      a look at it and found some black crud in the filter and floating in
      the fuel from the filter... Thought the problem would get fixed by
      replacing the filter.. Will try wat you have suggested.. Hopefully its
      not the fuel pump as i have changed it a few months ago due to the
      fuel pump leaking...cheers mate

      Sandeep
      UK - Tue 02nd August 2011 08:50am (GMT)

 
Subject : Terrano Exhaust mount question
Hi - I'm trying to find out whether the exhaust on a 2000MY 2.7TDi
Terrano should have a bracket/flexible mounting on the front
downpipe.

Nissan EPC says "yes", but there ain't one on mine
:-(

The middle box has two mounts, plus one on the tailpipe -
but that's it!

Cheers,
David

David
Cambridge, UK - Fri 29th July 2011 05:11pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : Terrano Exhaust mount question
    My '97 Terrano also a 27tdi doesn't have any exhaust mounts before the
    middle muffler, however it's got a flexible pipe section past the
    turbo.
    Cheers.

    frank
    Liverpool, nsw, Australia - Sat 30th July 2011 06:27am (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Re : Terrano Exhaust mount question
      Thanks for that, Frank!

      The parts catalogue I have shows a
      U-bolt and bracket, attached to a rubber mounting (similar to that on
      the outer side of the centre muffler).

      That's the problem
      with 'second user' cars - you never know whether a 'bodger' has been
      at work, or Nissan just deciding to delete this mounting at some
      point.... :-(

      Thanks again for the feedback!

      David
      UK - Sat 30th July 2011 06:33pm (GMT)

 
Subject : Nissan 4x4 2.7TD alternator
hi - perhaps you can advise me.
i have a Nissan 4x4 2.7TD 1994
model
Tach have given up the ghost along the way. (jammed at
1500rpm)
i am trying to build an electronic tach can anyone
advise on the wiring coming from the alternator ( i believe this feeds
a signal to the rev counter)many thanks
RobZ

Rob Zeilinga
Johannesburg, Gauteng, South Africa - Tue 26th July 2011 04:44pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : Nissan 4x4 2.7TD alternator
    On our nissan navara at my work the needle started to stick and was
    rubbing on the front panal . The needle was bent down probably warped
    over time in the heat . We took needle off ond heated to straighten
    and it was all good May not be the problem with yours

    steve
    nz - Tue 26th July 2011 08:44pm (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Re : Nissan 4x4 2.7TD alternator
      thanks for the reply, unfortunately not going to help in this case,
      it seems that the clearences between the coils of the gauge have
      warped and therefore are jamming.
      what i am looking for is a
      wiring diagram showing the alternator / sense wires through to the
      gauge - can any one else help?

      Rob
      Johannesburg, Gauteng, South Africa - Wed 27th July 2011 09:40am (GMT)

  • Subject : Re : Nissan 4x4 2.7TD alternator
    Apparently unless the gauge itself is replaced it might be hard and
    expensive to match an aftermarket tacho to the drive on the alternator
    due to the different pulley sizes etc. However you can buy tachometers
    that come with their own pick up unit such as magnetic strips to stick
    on the crankshaft pulley, and a few others, and they are quite
    inexpensive. You might find more info on tacho hook up on
    www.dieselplace.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-307010.html
    Good
    luck.

    Frank Vera
    Liverpool, NSW, Australia - Thu 28th July 2011 01:31am (GMT)

 
Subject : Oil
I know it's gonna been asked before - but what oil should I put in my
2.7 Deisel Terrano? It's a 2000 model.Semi synth or mineral? Any
advice would be good!

mossyman
Shrewsbury, UK - Mon 25th July 2011 07:37pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : Oil
    I always use Castrol gtx 15-40 diesel.Travelled over 85000kms with no
    problems.

    Tom
    manukau city, NZ - Tue 26th July 2011 04:21am (GMT)

  • Subject : Re : Oil
    That question was answered a short time ago on this very forum.

    Try reading this forum and FAQ's will be answered.
    IMHO it's
    not whether the oil is mineral or synthetic or a combination..it's
    whether it is the right viscosity for the climate, and how often you
    change it.
    You know how a diesel's lube oil turns black from the
    soot very quickly.
    The best way of getting rid of that is to drain
    the oil and change the filter regularly.
    Your choice....if you
    want to throw away synthetic or mineral every 5000km.
    Personally,
    a good name brand mineral oil works for me on a short change
    period.
    Your mileage may vary....

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Tue 26th July 2011 09:44am (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Re : Oil
      Many thanks!Mineral with regular changes it is!!
      Mossyman
      UK - Tue 26th July 2011 08:52pm (GMT)

 
Subject : fues probs 92 td27 terano
i have been having problems with my tail light fueses and the lights
on my dash and tail lights keep going out when i change the fues it
wil blow after bout 1 or 2 min it has happened a few times over the
years but keeps on doing it all the time it says 2 use a 10 amp fues
and i hav even tried going up to a 30 amp and it still blows any
idears any one please ?its a 1992 td27 terano

callum
dunedin, otago, new zealand - Mon 25th July 2011 04:30am (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : fuse probs 92 td27 terano
    The fuse is blowing because somewhere there is a direct shorft circuit
    to earth. You could put a 100amp fuse in and it would hold..but the
    wire or the fuseholder would melt or burn.

    Trace the wires to
    the rear of the vehicle from the fusebox.
    Look for a place where
    the wires go through a hole in metal, or look for an extra screw or
    bolt that has been put in somewhere cutting into the
    wires.

    Hope this helps

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Mon 25th July 2011 07:47am (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Re : fuse probs 92 td27 terano
      any idears where wires could chafe with out ripping whole car apart
      tks callum

      callum
      dunedin, new zealand - Mon 25th July 2011 09:57am (GMT)

  • Subject : Re : fues probs 92 td27 terano
    If the fuse blows when the car is moving then its more than likely a
    bare wire is making contact to earth shorting the circuit out or maybe
    an extra load on the circuit such as gauge lights etc. could also be
    shorting out disabling your lights. I'd be looking for bare wires near
    the light sockets to start with then follow the loom around the
    chassis. Also a towbar light socket could be causing shorts although
    the lights would only play up with the trailer hooked on.
    Good
    luck
    Frank.

    Francisco Vera
    Liverpool, NSW, Australia - Tue 26th July 2011 01:29am (GMT)

 
Subject : help how to reset abs nissan terrano II 2.7 tdi year 1997
hello. please can someone help me to reset the abs on my nissan
terrano II 2.7 tdi 1997?
I had a problem with an ABS senzor i have
fixed it but the abs light is still on.
Help please.

dragomir stefan
galati, Romania, Romania - Fri 22nd July 2011 06:51am (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : help how to reset abs nissan terrano II 2.7 tdi year 1997
    Disconnect the battery for a minute, if you know the code to reset
    your stereo.
    Reconnect it and hopefully the ABS light will go off?

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Fri 22nd July 2011 10:51am (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Re : help how to reset abs nissan terrano II 2.7 tdi year 1997
      the light is still on i heard it is a combination to reset the ABS ,
      or a strap between contacts

      dragomir stefan
      galati, Romania, Romania - Mon 25th July 2011 07:13am (GMT)

      • Subject : Re : Re : Re : help how to reset abs nissan terrano II 2.7 tdi year 1997
        http://www.justanswer.com/uk-nissan/4r434-nissan-datsun-nissan-terrano
        -2700-tdi-lwb-2000-abs-light.html

        http://www.mtbrider.com/arc
        hive/index.php/t-20534.html
        mcgintysgoat
        April 24-2009, 11:58
        AM
        Did the mechanic use Nissan Consult as the diagnostic or was it
        a third party tool? On pre-2002 Terrano's the loom is known to go in
        the area around the intercooler and this affects the abs
        system.

        http://www.automotivehelper.com/topic507436.htm


        http://www.automotiveforums.com/f209-2_pathfinder__terrano__qx4__x
        terra__patrol__safari__x_trail.html

        http://www.fixya.com/cars
        /t2373597-abs_fault_nissan_terrano_yreg

        This last entry tells
        you where and which wires are giving problems.
        Hope this helps

        John
        Christchurch, NZ - Mon 25th July 2011 08:04am (GMT)

 
Subject : 2000 Terrano speedo/dashboard not working
I bought this Terrano a few weeks ago with the dash not working - from
all the others I'd seen and what I'd read it's a fairly common fault?
Basically the whole thing - speedo/odo/fuel & temp gauges don't work,
it sort of flashes/flickers, though sometimes if you give it a
thump/go over a pothole it starts to work for a bit.
Anyway, I
bought this car and took it in to get this fixed straight away (I
factored a couple of hundred quid into what I paid for it to cover the
repair). My mechanic sent the dash away to be reconditioned, they sent
it back and everything was working aside from actual speedo. So he
sent it to them again and they've said that they can't fix it. My
mechanic has now said I need to get a new/reconditioned one.


Just wondered if anyone has any experience of this, any
recommendations for companies and a ballpark of how much it should
cost.

Cheers!

Caroline
London, UK - Wed 13th July 2011 01:09pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : 2000 Terrano speedo/dashboard not working
    Subject : Re : Nissan Regulus Speedometer
    Previous
    postings on this site mention that it is a known fault with these
    dashboards that either tacho or speedo give up functioning at some
    stage.
    It is down to a break in the circuit board from
    vibrations/bad solder.
    Try slamming your hand down hard on the
    dash, it may temporarily make it work again.
    Conversely, it
    could put the other guages out of action.
    Query the web re
    dashboard replacements/instrument panel replacements.
    Good
    luck
    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Sun 13th February 2011
    04:15pm (GMT)

    Subject : Re : Nissan Regulus
    Speedometer

    http://www.clusterrepairsuk.co.uk/repair-list/nissan/terrano/
    > Hope it's not too expensive.....
    John
    - NZ - Sun
    13th February 2011 04:20pm (GMT)

    Subject : Re : Nissan
    Regulus Speedometer

    http://www.bba-reman.com/content.aspx?content=Nissan_Terrano_cluster_f
    ailing
    John

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Thu 14th July 2011 08:34am (GMT)

  • Subject : Re : 2000 Terrano speedo/dashboard not working
    Just found out our speedo cluster is stuffed and cant be fixed . They
    think an electrical spike . not sure how you get one of those on a 12
    v system . We have a second hand one from a wrecker to be installed .
    They said the clusters with digital tachometer are harder to find than
    non digital . Price around $ 100 here in nz .

    steve
    ashburton, nz - Mon 18th July 2011 01:43am (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Re : 2000 Terrano speedo/dashboard not working
      Just an update on the speedo cluster . Our local wrecker lost the one
      he had lent to the autoeletritian so have spent the week searching for
      a speedo cluster all around nz . the digital odo type are rare and
      managed to find 2 in the north island but were over twice the price (
      $250 )of the one here . In the end found one locally for $95 with
      15000 more km than ours on it . Now have to get diesel ruc s all
      changed and lot of stuffing around . Best part is when I went to pick
      up the terrano It had stuffed batteries in it . The joys of twin
      batteries . $400 added to the bill . Needless to say went to car yard
      to see what was worth as trade in ( not much) and on the way home
      realised still had a good truck that went and drove well so am going
      to keep for 4wd trips , camping and get the wife a small runaround .

      steve
      ashburton, nz - Tue 26th July 2011 03:24am (GMT)

      • Subject : Re : Re : Re : 2000 Terrano speedo/dashboard not working
        You deserve a cold one for that.
        Check the alternator output, if
        the batteries are stuffed it could also affect that, and could be the
        source of your voltage spike, I'm sorry to say....
        Are you saying
        women can't look after 4WD's????

        John
        Christchurch, NZ - Tue 26th July 2011 09:55am (GMT)

        • Subject : Re : Re : Re : Re : 2000 Terrano speedo/dashboard not working
          Would never say that john !! We do about 25000 ks a year and think a
          small petrol would probably be cheaper to run and maintain . They
          tested alternator and all was ok . It is only about 6 months old .The
          alternator before that only lasted 14 months and then fried itself .
          Newlands here in Ashburton replaced It for no charge even though it
          was 2 months out of warrenty . They have been fantastic to deal with
          all those issues and the speedo problems and would recommend them .
          Noticed tonight the terrano took ages to warm up coming home and then
          sat at around a quarter on the temp where it normally sits bang on the
          middle , Thermostat stuck open you think??

          steve
          ash - Tue 26th July 2011 10:29am (GMT)

  • Subject : Re : 2000 Terrano speedo/dashboard not working
    Hi, I posted this message a couple of months ago. This issue STILL
    isn't sorted and I'm tearing my hair out. My mechanic sent the cluster
    off for repair, they have had it twice, and he has just replaced it
    again and it still isn't working. Now am wondering whether it is that
    or something else in the car. Any ideas on what he can check?

    Caroline
    London, London, UK - Tue 06th September 2011 11:31am (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Re : 2000 Terrano speedo/dashboard not working
      Just saw your message, what exactly is not working?
      If it is the
      speedo, then the sensor in the transmission that sends the signal to
      the speedo may be kaput.
      If some of the other guages are not
      working, some of the other sensors may not be sending their signals
      through, or the wiring between the sensors and the guages is worn
      through or corroded or short-circuiting.

      John
      Christchurch - Sun 11th September 2011 05:38am (GMT)

 
Subject : gear
can not change the gear from low to high fast the vehicle seems to
jump . The vehicle is a nissan mistral automatic

carol
mt.hagen, png - Sat 02nd July 2011 07:30am (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : gear
    Carol, do you mean you cannot move the selector lever from low 4WD to
    High 4WD?

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Sun 03rd July 2011 05:24am (GMT)

 
Subject : td2.7 mistral
Noticed on frosty mornings the vehivle is hard to start.It fires up
straight away but will not keep running.Have to do 3 or4 starts then
its away.Could this be glowplugs? Vehicle has done 133000kms and is in
great condition. If plugs is this a diy job? Thanks Tom.

Tom
auckland, nz - Thu 30th June 2011 09:58pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : td2.7 mistral
    Previous posts cover this..you have a "sensor loop" built in to the
    glow plug circuit which should keep the plugs glowing for up to 10
    minutes or until the water temperature reads 50C.
    The plugs work
    on start up, but are not staying "lit" for those 10 minutes after
    starting/50C being reached.
    Have you had any problems with a
    temperature sensor, wiring etc?

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Fri 01st July 2011 09:50am (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Re : td2.7 mistral
      No previous problems. will check previous posts. Thanks.
      Tom
      auckland - Sat 02nd July 2011 02:39am (GMT)

 
Subject : terrano
Better half was driving to work this morning and noticed temp was
reading high ( yes she noticed ) then realised fuel was reading full
tank when nearly empty, and rev counter and speedo not working .
After turning truck off and on a couple of times it came right but
tonight its doing it again . Could this be loose wire or damage to the
circuit bord as in previous posts .
Any thoughts????

steve
ashburton, nz - Wed 29th June 2011 10:07am (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : terrano
    I think so Steve.Ph E Parrot and Son in CHCH 03 366 9554 and see if
    they can help?

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Thu 30th June 2011 10:19am (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Re : terrano
      Hi john . Had at auto sparky in ash today and they tried another
      speedo cluster and worked fine ( and it had 5ok less kays on it than
      ours) They reckon be better to get ours fixed as a second hand one may
      do the same thing in the future . They are sending to nelson so they
      tell me .

      Thanks

      steve
      ashburton, nz - Thu 30th June 2011 10:41am (GMT)

 
Subject : 2001 Pathfinder Transmission problem
Have a 2001 3.0 litre Pathfinder, the auto transmission will only work
in 3rd gear in drive.Will not change down automatically or manually
into 1st or 2nd, moving gear shift to those positions has no effect.
Reverse is fine, over drive switch does not work either,but light in
dash comes up.
Any suggestions thanks.
David

David
Whangaparaoa, NZ - Tue 28th June 2011 01:01pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : 2001 Pathfinder Transmission problem
    Sounds like "limp home mode".
    It allows you to get home or to a
    transmission expert to get help.
    You'll need to have the
    transmission computer codes read to help diagnose the
    problem.
    Good luck.

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Tue 28th June 2011 06:11pm (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Re : 2001 Pathfinder Transmission problem
      Thanks for that prompt reply and info John,
      Disconnected the
      battery for a period of time and everything went back to normal. Good
      to know that it has a "limp home mode".
      Were in NZ is the best
      place to get a workshop manual.
      Thanks David

      David
      Whangaparaoa, NZ - Wed 29th June 2011 10:47am (GMT)

      • Subject : Re : Re : Re : 2001 Pathfinder Transmission problem
        You have experienced the equivalent of a home computer's "Blue Screen
        of Death"
        Hope now that you have "rebooted" the computers, all is
        well.
        Manuals probably only available thru Nissan.
        Take heart
        pills before asking price....

        John
        Christchurch, NZ - Fri 01st July 2011 09:53am (GMT)

 
Subject : Navara 2005 3 liter turbo diesel won't start
Filled tank with diesel, drove 3kms, stopped, 30 minutes later tried
to restart wouldn't, just turned over, left vehicle, went back next
day and it restarted but not first turn as usual. This pattern
repeated and now requires the fuel priome pump to be pumped until firm
and then it starts after some turn over. Always the same symptoms
now. Vehicle runs fine when it starts, no loss of power and no smoke,
no warning lights.

Rob
Auckland, NZ - Sat 25th June 2011 12:23am (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : Navara 2005 3 liter turbo diesel won't start
    Google "Navara lift pump"
    Join this site.
    Read solutions.

    Known problem and it is exactly what you described..the lift pump
    is not doing it's job, and everyone with this engine should install an
    electric lift pump to stop eventual very expensive problems with their
    fuel injection pump which relies on a steady stream of pressurised
    diesel provided by that lift pump for lubrication.
    If you google
    some American pages re Cummins common rail diesels you will find it is
    a problem all over the world.
    Good luck, good reading

    John
    Chriustchurch, NZ - Sat 25th June 2011 06:03am (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Re : Navara 2005 3 liter turbo diesel won't start
      Many thanks John, will do the install on Monday.
      Rob
      Auckland, NZ - Sat 25th June 2011 06:42am (GMT)

      • Subject : Navara lift pump
        Just a thought John, you seem to be well informed on this issue. What
        sort of pump would your recommend and where to mount and is it before
        filter or after. Do I disconnect the other Nissan mechanical pump?
        Many thanks for taking this time to help.

        Rob Maskell
        Auckland, -, New Zealand - Sun 26th June 2011 04:36am (GMT)

        • Subject : Re : Navara lift pump
          Make your enquiries with a pump supplier.
          Most installations
          appear to be sucking directly from the tank and pushing it through a
          filter (or two) bypassing the lift pump and directly into the
          injection pump.
          Whatever you do, absolute cleanliness is vital.

          Pump a litre or two of diesel through to flush the system right
          through before you connect it up to the injection pump.
          Good luck.

          John
          Christchurch, NZ - Sun 26th June 2011 11:14am (GMT)

 
Subject : Terrano 11 SR Sport
Hi I have a Terranno 11 1997 SR Sport
I had a new battery and a
new altenator, but still I go out and the car will not turn over.
There is no power in the battery. There is no drain on the battery
when car is turned off. Went out to the car turned it striaght on from
cold, travelled some 25 miles parked it for 2 hours cam out strted
stright away, went to the petrol station 2 minuites away, and it would
not start. It seems to run when it wants !!!!! HELP

Kay
Driffield, UK - Thu 23rd June 2011 04:13pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : Terrano 11 SR Sport
    Whe you say "There is no power in the battery" do you mean that when
    it fails to start and you turn on the headlights, the headlights do
    not light up?
    If so, take a good look at the large in line fuse
    from the battery positive lead to the fuse box (fusible link) and make
    sure that corrosion has not affected it.

    Take off and clean
    the earth cables connections at both ends and especially the chassis
    or body mount as these are known to rust and therefore will not
    reliably transmit current...and current is what you need to start a
    diesel.

    When you parked at the petrol station did you use the
    remote to lock the vehicle?
    Are you having/have you had any
    locking problems where the vehicle activates the locks by
    itself?
    Or the anti theft?

    How long did it take you to
    get the vehicle to start?
    What did you do to get it to
    start?
    Does it just seem to take time before it will start or is
    it heat related i.e when it is hot it is more likely not to
    start?

    Does this only happen in rainy/wet
    weather?

    Are you trying to start the vehicle only in PARK or
    neutral?
    Do you have an interlock where you need to have your foot
    on the brake when trying to start?
    If so jiggle the brake pedal or
    check the switch that the brake pedal activates to close the circuit
    to allow starting.

    Try jiggling the shifter slightly to see
    if it is slightly out of sync with where it should be i.e. the shifter
    indicates it is in P or N but actually you may have to nudge it a
    little to get it exactly right.

    Follow a logical sequence.

    Follow the electricity around the circuit until you find the
    problem.

    Good luck.

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Fri 24th June 2011 09:08am (GMT)

 
Subject : Nissan Terrano R3mR
Hi,

I own a 1996 Nissan Terrano R3mR (Japanese Import, 2.7l
diesel) and have recently received a letter from Transport for London
telling me that as of 3rd Jan 2012 i won't be able to drive it within
the Low Emission Zone as it will not meet Euro 3 standard for
particulate matter. I understand that despite its age a lot of the
Japanese imports may already meet the Euro 3 standard as their
emissions standards were alreay higher than the UK's. Does anyone know
if this is true and which Nissan department I need to contact in order
to get hold of documents as evidence?

Thanks in
advance


Dan Wells
- Kent, UK - Tue 21st June 2011 07:48pm (GMT)
 
Subject : White smoke
Hi
I have a 2.7tdi Nissan Terrano 2000 model and the car was not
going over 50 mph. I sent it to Nissan for a diagnostics and i was
told the mass air flow meter needed changing.
I changed this and
put in a new slave cylinder kit and a new clutch and it drove well.
After a few days the car now has white exhaust fumes when it starts
and when accelrating. What could be the cause of this?

victor
London, UK - Tue 14th June 2011 08:49pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : White smoke
    This has been covered many many times before on this forum. Please
    take the time to READ the forum before asking
    these
    questions.
    You will be much better informed as to what
    could cause this, but water in the fuel or in the cylinders would be
    my first guess.
    If you haven't changed your fuel filter this year,
    do so now.
    Keep an eye on your radiator levels. If it starts going
    down rapidly, especially overnight, there may be a head gasket problem
    caused by incorrect fuelling when the MAF was wonky.
    Good luck.

    John
    Christchurch, Nz - Wed 15th June 2011 12:12pm (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Re : White smoke
      Thanks for the infor. i had read the previous emails but could not
      locate that section.
      regards

      Victor

      victor
      essex, UK - Tue 12th July 2011 11:01pm (GMT)

  • Subject : Re : White smoke
    change fuel filter. 2 test for faulty lift sensor on no1 injector and
    have all four injectors serviced.if you want more help send me your
    contact number

    CHRISTOPHER
    bidiford, devon, UK - Sat 18th June 2011 11:38pm (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Re : White smoke
      Thanks for the response and advice.

      Regards

      Victor

      victor
      essex, UK - Tue 12th July 2011 11:03pm (GMT)

 
Subject : nissan mistral 1995 2.7 automatic
Hi i cannot get the gears to shift past second i can select first and
second manually but in drive it will not come out of second.Have
checked the fluid but other than that no idea please ,please can
anyone help

samantha rawles
PORTLAND, Dorset, UK - Sun 12th June 2011 11:14pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : nissan mistral 1995 2.7 automatic
    A little more info..when did this start?
    What were driving
    conditions, what were weather conditions, had you noticed anything
    different about the transmission just before this occurred?
    When
    you "checked the fluid" what did you observe/smell?
    How long ago
    since you had the trans serviced i.e. put on a hoist, the pan dropped,
    the filter removed and opened up to check for debris, the filter
    replaced, the fluid replaced and the trans road tested?
    Have you
    overheated the engine or transmission..towed something heavy or for a
    long time on a hot day?
    Any leaks of fluid under the
    vehicle?
    Any water in the trans fluid?
    Any trans fluid in the
    radiator fluid?
    My crystal ball is not working this week,
    information is the key and could help you save a lot of money???

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Tue 14th June 2011 11:05am (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Re : nissan mistral 1995 2.7 automatic
      Hi sorry for being a bit vague with info, i am a girl after all!!We
      have only had the car a month and we think it may be something to do
      with damp as this happened the same day we had very heavy rain all
      day.In answer to above did not notice anything different when it was
      driven last,not sure about having anything serviced as we only just
      brought it but there was no record of anything being done, we have not
      towed or over-heated it. since the weather has turned dry again it is
      working fine now!Hope this clears the mist;-)Any advice would be
      greatly appreciated.

      samantha rawles
      Portland, Dorset, UK - Tue 14th June 2011 11:40am (GMT)

      • Subject : Re : Re : Re : nissan mistral 1995 2.7 automatic
        The simplest, least costly "tune-up" of a automatic transmission is
        the fluid and filter change as described above.
        New fluid and
        filter can make a world of difference to the functioning, smoothness
        and durability of the trans.
        Do that as soon as you can afford
        it.
        As in previous items on this forum, go under the car and take
        off any electrical connector that leads to the transmission. Spray
        liberally with electronic contact cleaner spray available in a handy
        sized can at most motor factors/electrical shops, and reinsert
        connectors.
        This can stop corrosion, especially wet corrosion from
        short circuiting or open circuiting.
        You can do the spraying
        yourself in 5 minutes.
        That's one of the advantages of a 4WD; it
        sits high enough to crawl under especially if you are a slim, trim
        female!
        PS while you are under there, give the universals and the
        sliding splines a shot of grease????
        Good luck!


        John
        Christchurch, NZ - Wed 15th June 2011 12:07pm (GMT)

 
Subject : Idling problem mistral 96
When engine is warmed up, would be idling at 1000rpm when placed in
neutral or park and 800rpm when in reverse, drive or 2.
Thanks in
advance.

Dennis

dennis
auckland city, nz, nz - Sun 12th June 2011 12:07pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : Idling problem mistral 96
    Is the airconditioning switched on?
    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Tue 14th June 2011 10:59am (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Idling problem mistral 96
      Thanks for the quick reply John. No, aircon is off. Thanks.
      dennis
      Auckland, NZ - Wed 15th June 2011 09:59am (GMT)

      • Subject : Re : Re : Idling problem mistral 96
        Has anything changed recently e.g. new air filter, break in the hose
        from air filter to turbo, changed fuel filter, tuneup performed by
        someone, injector cleaner in tank, new engine oil, excessive smoke
        under acceleration, etc etc?
        When did the change occur
        (overnight?) or gradually increased over 2 months?

        John
        Christchurch, NZ - Wed 15th June 2011 12:18pm (GMT)

        • Subject : Re : Idling problem mistral 96
          Drove it for wof yesterday and it was idling fine.

          I've
          noticed this I think 5 months ago. And lately, the problem's been
          occuring more often.

          Maintenance:
          annually -- air and
          fuel filter
          5,000km or every 4months = engine oil and
          filter

          In the last 3 months, I've changed trans fluid and
          filter(genuine kit), fan belt and battery lead. I've also installed an
          oil catch can.

          Last week, I've cleaned the fuel gauge under
          the banjo bolt(17mm) and disabled the egr (plugging the hose) but
          problem's still there.

          I gonna try to adjust the idle speed
          adjusting screw if problem occurs again and see how it
          goes.

          Thanks.

          dennis
          Auckland, nz - Fri 17th June 2011 11:03am (GMT)

          • Subject : Re : Re : Idling problem mistral 96
            it hasn't been tuned up, no injector cleaner in the tank and no
            excessive smoke under acceleration.

            thanks.

            dennis
            Auckland, nz - Fri 17th June 2011 11:08am (GMT)

            • Subject : Re : Re : Re : Idling problem mistral 96
              Only other thing can think of is a fraying accelerator cable jamming
              occasionally?
              Good luck and don't forget to use the aircon each
              week for 10 minutes just to keep the lubricants distributed around the
              seals. It's cheaper than having a refill every summer, and it works
              well clearing the windscreen on wet days!

              John
              Christchurch, NZ - Mon 20th June 2011 08:53am (GMT)

              • Subject : Re : Idling problem mistral 96
                Again thank you for your help John.

                Yeah I'll try to check
                accelerator cable for binding/fraying this weekend.

                Aircon is
                in good condition as its being used on summer and as a defogger on
                rainy days.

                Thanks for your time John.


                dennis
                Auckland, nz - Mon 20th June 2011 09:50am (GMT)

 
Subject : renewed fanbelts
nissan mistral turbo 1994 2700cc
renewed 3 fanbelts,now handbrake
light not go off,brake fluid level is
ok/any answer

Brian
consett, durham, UK - Wed 08th June 2011 11:40pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : renewed fanbelts
    Your handbrake light is controlled by a switch down by the hinged end
    of the handbrake lever on the transmission tunnel.
    The switch may
    have jammed.
    Lift the carpets and centre console and check this
    switch.You may have to unbolt and remove both front seats to allow
    easier access.
    What has the handbrake indicator got to do with the
    fan belts?
    Did you replace each fan belt once, or one fan belt
    three times?
    If you replaced one fan belt three times, which one
    was it because you have more to worry about than a failed handbrake
    switch!!!

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Thu 09th June 2011 08:55am (GMT)

 
Subject : 95 mistral
Info on changing the air cond. belt.mainly how to adjust. Thanks
Tom
- akl, nz - Sun 29th May 2011 10:11pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : 95 mistral
    Not too tight; not too loose. Have a look on the internet it will show
    you how....


    UK - Mon 30th May 2011 07:55pm (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Re : 95 mistral
      Thanks all done with no problems
      tom
      manukau city, nz - Tue 31st May 2011 01:05am (GMT)

 
Subject : missfires and cuts out when warm
i have just put another 2.7td engine in a 99 plate terrano, started up
and was running fine, once it got warm it started to miss fire and cut
out, and take a age to start like it was out of diesel. so put some
in, and it done the same once it got warm it cut out, you have to keep
throttle on at about 1500rpm to keep it running but it struggles and
chucks loads of white smoke out.

any 1 has this problem
before thank you daniel

daniel gilbert
northallerton, north yorkshire, UK - Mon 23rd May 2011 10:05pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : missfires and cuts out when warm
    Start the engine with the radiator cap off.
    Warm it up, se if
    there are any bubbles coming through in the circulating
    water.

    When it gets to normal operating temperature, put the
    radiator cap on.

    See how long it takes for the white smoke to
    start.

    If it pours out you probably have a bad head gasket in
    that engine.
    The pressurisation of the water when it heats forces
    it into the cylinder(s) producing the white smoke and "putting out the
    fires" i.e. combustion.

    It also accounts for your hard
    starting.
    There is water in the cylinders.
    Water is
    incompressible and "wet" so there is no
    ignition/combustion.

    Good luck

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Tue 24th May 2011 09:33am (GMT)

 
Subject : Nissan Terrano
Hi I note some thorough knowledge and information, especially from
John of Christchurch. I am planning to purchase a second hand Nissan
Terrano 3.2 diesel or the later Z30 3 litre diesel. I will be towing a
light caravan at times. There appears to be some concern about the
later "neo" 3 litre diesel having issues. I have seen comment and know
of someone who had a piston failure for no apparent reason.Have Nissan
remedied this or should I stick to the earlier 3.2 diesel for
reliability. Thanks , Frank

Frank Curulli
Auckland, New Zealand - Sun 22nd May 2011 05:55am (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : Nissan Terrano
    have a look at this
    .
    http://www.chaz.yellowfoot.org/zd30_engine_problems.htm
    >The qd 32 and td 27 motors are pretty similar and pretty reliable
    from what I hear . We have had mass air flow sensor problems ( the 3.2
    ) which caused over fueling which can cause serious problems . Its
    fuel usage went through the roof and had way more power than normal
    .
    the early terranos with the zd 30 s in them (1999 2000 models)I
    wouldnt touch. Know of 2 around here with blown motors and were not
    worth fixing.
    Hope this helps.
    We tow with ours no worries and
    value for money compared to prado surf or pajero you cant beat them .

    steve
    ashburton, nz - Sun 22nd May 2011 08:52am (GMT)

  • Subject : Re : Nissan Terrano
    Steve has experience with the 3.2, and I have 10 years with an early
    2.7TD.
    A friend has a 1997 Mistral 3 door and tows a 6.5m inboard
    outboard boat no problems, Christchurch to Lake Benmore etc.
    The
    early 2.7TD are long lived, noisy, use more fuel, but are simple and
    rugged.
    The later 2.7TD has electronic controls, as has the 3.2
    but they also seem to last well.Just clean the sensors and keep
    replacing the fuel filters regularly.
    The ZD30 does not have a
    good reputation, and if you read the link(s) provided by Steve you can
    see why.

    You could modify the engine systems as promulgated
    and probably have no worries after that..unless bad things have
    already happened to the one you are going to buy???

    If you
    buy through a dealer, buy the 3 year warranty for peace of mind.
    I
    am glad you are doing your research on the net before taking the
    plunge, if you do the same for any other make of 4WD you will find
    each has an achilles heel of some sort.
    Best of luck!!!

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Sun 22nd May 2011 11:38am (GMT)

 
Subject : Lower ball joint
Have a 94 Mistral and need to change lower ball joint, how hard is
this? I have heard you need to remove axle to get clearance to get it
out, is yhis correct?
Regards Neill

Neill
Tauranga, NZ - Sat 14th May 2011 06:45am (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : Lower ball joint
    Found this on the net:
    Question
    i have a 1991 nissan terrano
    rm3 and the font bottom ball-joints left and right are in need of
    replacement it would be very helpfully if you could please let me no
    how to replace them.
    thanks
    dan


    Answer
    Dan,

    The easy way, requiring no
    special tools, is to replace the lower control arm with the ball
    joints attached.
    If you are going to replace the lower ball
    joints alone you could purchase new ones and it is just a matter of
    using an air chisel to remove the rivets holding them on and then use
    a press to remove the ball joints. Assembly is just the opposite
    where you install them and bolt them up.
    Also, for either case
    you will need a pickle fork to remove the ball joint from the spindle.

    Air tools are best but the job can be done with hand tools and a
    press. Align the vehicle after you are done.

    Ruben
    UK - Sat 14th May 2011 11:21pm (GMT)

  • Subject : Re : Lower ball joint

    The easy way is to purchase an entire lower control arm.

    That way, the bushing is replaced with the ball joint.
    The
    hard way is to purchase a lower ball joint and unbolt the old one and
    install the new one.
    Remember that the lower control arm is
    unloaded so it is just a matter of unbolting the lower control arm
    from the spindle and use a pickle fork to get the ball joint loose.
    Then, unbolt it and smack it with a hammer to get it out. Then,
    replace it with the new one and bolt it back in

    Purchasing
    the entire lower control arm is more expensive. But, since you have
    not done it before it is the easiest way to replace the lower ball
    joint. Just a matter of following what I described above.
    You
    jack up the car and put it on stands and remove the lower control arm
    at the ball joint and the pivot point, inboard, and the anti-sway bar
    and replace with the new one.
    If you do it this way the car will
    only need a slight alignment.
    Remember that the spring is on the
    strut so the lower control arm will be unloaded. That means it is not
    under pressure, providing the car is on jack stands and the lower
    control arm is unloaded.

    Ruben
    - UK - Sun 15th May 2011 01:54am (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Re : Lower ball joint
      Thanks for that mate, must be a different model,we got the job done.
      for future reference I was able to remove the free wheel mech, removed
      spring clip which alowed sline of axle to slide throuh the hub
      enough,after releasing ball joint with pickle fork,to allow hub to be
      tilted forwards and upwards enough to remove balljoint bolts and ball
      joint, bit fiddly, but wasnt so bad
      Cheers

      Neill
      Tauranga, NZ - Sun 15th May 2011 07:04am (GMT)

 
Subject :
how much engine oil does a nissan terrano 2.7 litre take??
scottie
- nz - Thu 12th May 2011 02:04am (GMT)
  • Subject : Re :
    According to the manual 5.3 litres without oil filter and 6 litres
    with an oil filter.
    I use good mineral oil, the manual recommends
    10w-30, I usually use a 15w-40 diesel such as Shell Rimula X,
    Valvoline, Fuchs, BP, Mobil and change it every 5,000km, as my running
    is mostly city and short distances, which is hard on oil.
    Your
    mileage may vary.

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Thu 12th May 2011 05:41am (GMT)

  • Subject : Re :
    Cheers John yeah im using castrol gtx 15w-40 around town and up and
    down the ski field its due for its 5000km change now

    scottie
    - NZ - Thu 12th May 2011 06:10am (GMT)

 
Subject : Nissan Mistral 4x4 automatic
had 2 new brake switches fitted but brake lights are off again and
have to use emergency button on base of gear lever and it appears that
brake switches are not faulty,would be grateful for any help on this.
thanks

r howes
South Shields, Tyne& Wear, UK - Wed 11th May 2011 03:47pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : Nissan Mistral 4x4 automatic
    Use a digital volt meter, even a cheap one can be bought for very
    little money.
    Previous posts on here explain how to check fuses.
    For some reason no power is getting through the circuit. Most likely a
    blown fuse.
    When you find that, replace the fuse. If it blows
    again, then you have a short circuit to ground in the wiring.
    You
    didn't have a problem with attaching and plugging in a "strange"
    trailer or whatever to your vehicle recently?
    Check your trailer
    plug, clean it out with contact cleaner.
    Hope this helps

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Thu 12th May 2011 01:11am (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Re : Nissan Mistral 4x4 automatic
      Hi John
      Thanks for prompt reply there was another reason for the
      fault which was the brake switch I found that when the switch was took
      apart that the copper contacts on the return spring within the casing
      had gone inwards and were not making contact. alittle pressure
      outwards towards the casing contacts and reassembling did the trick.
      the copper contacts are quite weak and ater a certain amount of
      braking creates the fault. Hope this information will come in handy
      forsomone with the same problem .

      Richard
      South Shields, Tyne&Wear, UK - Thu 12th May 2011 05:17pm (GMT)

      • Subject : Re : Re : Re : Nissan Mistral 4x4 automatic
        If they were indeed "new" switches I would be taking them back and
        asking for replacements. They should stand up to a lifetime of
        intermittent use in a motor vehicle.

        John
        Christchurch, NZ - Fri 13th May 2011 01:06am (GMT)

 
Subject : Nissan KDPR50 Vacume
Hi all I have a 1996 Nissan Teranno Urban
KDPR50 I had it MOT`D
and it had to have new front pads,easy enough job. When I went to
collect it my brake warning light came on and breaks lost pressure,
similar to air in the system. Told the mechanic he bled brakes again
no difference, Then told me the near side caliper was very hard to
push in when putting in the new pads. So they remove caliper cant get
a replacement so it is sent away to be refurbished, a week later its
back put on but no difference, now they tell me its loosing vacume
pressure they think its the switch under the bonnet somewhere, they
have now spoken to Nissan dealer who has emailed Japan to see if they
can get a switch,
has any one else had this problem, and do you
know how to cure it? I feel sure it was forcing the caliper back that
has caused the problem as there has never been a brake problem before
please help. Rick

Rick Mundy
Canewdon, Essex, UK - Mon 09th May 2011 11:01am (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : Nissan KDPR50 Vacume
    Sorry to hear about these problems. Two questions to ask the mechanic
    who did your brakes: did he take care with the ABS sensor/wires, and
    does he know the correct procedure to bleed ABS brakes?
    If not,
    then he has stuffed up and you may need the attention of a brake
    expert.
    This should be at no cost to you, as the mechanic stuffed
    up in some way, since it worked when you went in, and it did not work
    when it came out.
    It is not a common problem as this is the first
    mention of this problem since this site started in 2004.

    Good
    luck

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Tue 10th May 2011 02:11pm (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Re : Nissan KDPR50 Vacume
      Hi John, The Mechanic that did them has been servicing the car since
      it was imported in 2005, On its first service then May 2005 he put in
      new pads no problem, It is a proper garage that is doing the job
      though, It is loosing vacume pressure when stopping builds up again as
      soon as the car is accelerated,
      what is the correct procedure for
      bleeding abs brakes? although he MOT ing cars and servicing them every
      day so I would hope that bleeding them is not the problen, could it be
      the vacume switch? but why would it lose pressure

      Rick Mundy
      Canewdon, Essex, UK - Tue 10th May 2011 03:56pm (GMT)

      • Subject : Re : Re : Re : Nissan KDPR50 Vacume
        OK, sounds like the vacuum pump on the rear of the alternator is not
        keeping up with the vacuum demand at idle. Trace the vacuum line from
        the rear of the pump to the brake booster and twist and turn the
        rubber line to reveal any splits or holes.Take the line off at the
        brake booster and check for vacuum at idle and at revs.

        John
        Christchurch, NZ - Tue 10th May 2011 11:10pm (GMT)

        • Subject : Re : Re : Re : Re : Nissan KDPR50 Vacume
          Hi John thank you for your responce I am going to the garage today
          with your info to see what is happening, will let you know if there is
          anything different going on Rick

          Rick Mundy
          Canewdon, Essex, UK - Wed 11th May 2011 09:17am (GMT)

 
Subject : Mistral
I have a 1994 MISTRALTD27 Engine and i find it is closing off while
Driving

Alvin Cumberbatch
Kingstown, St Vincent - Sun 01st May 2011 10:16pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : Mistral
    Alvin, we need a bit more info than that to help you solve a
    problem...tell us more...
    P.S. Your surname is a very ancient
    English one with a real history behind it?

    John
    NZ - Tue 03rd May 2011 09:44am (GMT)

 
Subject : Nissan 2.7TD exploded diagramsd
http://nissan4u.com/parts/terrano/el_wd21/1990_5/type_5/

Hope
these can be of use

John
Christchurch, NZ - Sun 01st May 2011 04:41am (GMT)
 
Subject : Nissan Mistral turbo
I have a question, which may sound stupid to some, but I would
appreciate some help. How do I know that the turbo actually works?
What I am experiencing is nice torque and acceleration at low
revs(below 2200). However, if I get near the 3000 mark there is very
little extra power to be gained and the vehicle is clearly
overfuelling, which makes me think that there might be something wrong
with the turbo.

Rumen
Auckland, New Zealand - Tue 26th April 2011 07:22am (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : Nissan Mistral turbo
    You may have a air leak between the turbo and the intake manafold . I
    had a hoseclamp come off one of the rubber hoses on our terrano and
    when the turbo was producing boost the pressure was escaping and only
    getting partial boost .It was using heaps of fuel as well . You could
    hear the air ascaping when you gave the truck some throttle with the
    brakes on .
    You could get the turbo boost pressure tested , not
    sure what psi they make , 8 to 10 psi at a guess , John
    ????

    steve

    steve
    ashburton, nz - Tue 26th April 2011 11:31am (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Re : Nissan Mistral turbo
      Thanks Steve, I did what you recommend, but didn't hear anything. I am
      wondering whether the turbo works at all. I had an Isuzu before and I
      could actually hear the turbo kicking in and sure enough I could tell
      the difference.
      Thanks for your help!

      Rumen
      Auckland, New Zealand - Wed 27th April 2011 09:02am (GMT)

      • Subject : Re : Re : Re : Nissan Mistral turbo
        try taking your air cleaner out and start up . you should be able to
        hear the turbo whistling .make sure no dirt or crap can get sucked in
        . A pressure test is prob the only way to really check . you should be
        able to tap in a boost / vacume gauge into the intake manafold
        somwhere

        steve
        ash, nz - Thu 28th April 2011 09:00am (GMT)

  • Subject : Re : Nissan Mistral turbo
    Boost pressure as observed by this man is .7 to .8 bar or 9.8 to
    11.2lbs/sq inch


    http://www.nissan4x4.co.za/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=7785&PN
    =0&TPN=1

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Wed 27th April 2011 09:02am (GMT)

 
Subject : 1999 Nissan Terrano II will not start
I have a 1999 Nissan Terrano II 2.7TD that will not start. It started
doing this intermittently but now the fault is there permanently and
has all the mechanics stumped. It appears to be an electrical fault
but not sure.
It appears that the injector pump just will not send
fuel to the injectors. Fuel Cutoff OK, will fire on airostart.
One
thing I did notice is that when the car was working and the ignition
was switched on, I would always hear a buzz for a second which sounded
like an electric fuel pump - but I can't find any electric fuel pump
in the line. When the car didn't start, there was no buzz.
Hoping
someone may be able to give me a clue.

Stuart
Lithgow, NSW, Australia - Fri 22nd April 2011 12:56pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : 1999 Nissan Terrano II will not start
    In my opinion you have almost solved your own problem.
    There was
    a "buzz" when the engine fired, and no "buzz" when it failed to
    start.
    Something had to make that "buzz", even if it might not be
    meant to "buzz".

    Have another look at that fuel
    cutoff.
    It is a solenoid, and it cuts off fuel to the injectors,
    which is exactly your problem.

    If this solenoid was slowly
    starting to fail, it might "buzz" because it is not energizing
    properly.

    It has succeeded with an effort ("buzz")before; now
    it's failed.

    Go back to your mechanic with this
    theory.

    There is obviously nothing else wrong with the
    engine, since it turns over on the key, and it will run on aerostart
    (or WD40, or just about any oil etc....

    Hope this helps.

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Sat 23rd April 2011 06:00am (GMT)

  • Subject : Re : 1999 Nissan Terrano II will not start
    Found this on web

    Note: under diesel pump.."has solenoid that
    may stick."


    Quick summary of this thread plus some more
    info for Nissan Terrano II 2.7TDi Aust delivery
    1997-99.
    .

    The following compilation lists part #,
    non-Nissan parts suppliers, vehicle specs & basic info about simple
    maintenance. It is not exhaustive, you are wise to treat it as a
    general guide & check the info before committing to it.
    I hope it
    is of assistance. No responsibility is taken etc.

    Free
    Factory Manual can be found here (download all
    sections)
    "http://bebrs.pie-dabas.net/Webs/Terrano/R20/"


    Some engine components same as Pathy/Navara/Terrano I WD21 2.7TD - but
    most aren't. Head may be different due to injector threads
    etc.
    (The 'i' in the TDi engine code results in many differences).
    Searching for parts may find compatible info & components from UK
    (Right Hand drive).
    Some '97 models had Hitachi engine controls (&
    throttle valve on intercooler) whilst later models used
    Bosch.

    Engine Oil Filter: Ryco Z503 (very slightly smaller &
    fits best), also Repco ROF64 & Valvoline units.
    Need approx 7.5L
    of suitable Turbo Diesel 4WD oil. Access filter through wheel
    arch.
    For mess free filter change: Drain oil. Replace sump plug.
    Turn engine over for 2 secs. Redrain. Place plastic bags under/around
    existing filter. Punch & carefully remove. Replace sump plug & fit new
    filter 3/4 full of oil. Re-fit all plugs and caps. Check oil level
    before and after running engine.

    Oil Pressure: Idle Speed:
    more than 78 kpa. At 3000 rpm: 294 - 392 kpa.

    Fuel Filter:
    Ryco Z332 or Repco RDF4. Change regularly ~10K km. Secondary CAV
    filter kit can be fitted.
    (Drain filter into container, punch &
    remove, remove fittings w/- pliers, grease threads, prime. Ensure no
    leaks!)

    Injectors: Remove & have serviced to save $$$.
    Nozzles @ ~$60 ea + shim labour.
    Non genuine no.1 injector ~$250,
    it's a special unit with sensor so look after it. Can buy direct from
    Bosch etc.

    Glow Plugs: Torque 20Nm Max!! Champion CH162. (NGK
    Y-707RS. Denso DG120. Nissan 11065-63G00).
    Glow plugs can burn out
    - engine won't start. Check for 12V, then remove buzzbar, check 0.5
    Ohm at each plug.

    Diesel pump: "Zexel COVEC - Fitted to
    Nissan TD27Ti, QD32Ti & Isuzu 4JG2" (Check this).
    Pump has cutoff
    solenoid that may stick (test for approx 11-12V, and/or remove & free
    it up as required).
    Mesh screen in pump can clog (remove and
    clean, check for other debris. Ensure cleanliness when doing
    this).
    Internal springs may collapse & give rough running (need to
    replace).
    Electronic controller may fail & give rough running/idle
    (replace at approx $320).
    Complete pump rebuild is expensive so
    check the above faults first. Change fuel filter
    regularly!!

    Idle Speed: With A/c on 850 rpm +/- 50. Without
    A/c on 700 +/- 50.

    Valve clearance: Must be hot when set:
    0.25 mm for exhaust/Intake.

    Air Sensor: If Bosch, buy from
    Bosch save $. Hitachi unit #AFH7014 (Nissan #226802J200) available
    aftermarket. Hitachi unit also on Pathfinder R50 V6 VG33E & Infiniti
    etc. Equiv to Hella 8ET009142401.
    Remove & GENTLY clean sensor
    with contact cleaner spray, allow to dry, carefully replace, ensure
    sealed.

    Airfilter: Wesfil WA1041 (Brookvale, NSW) ~$30.
    Nissan # 16546-7F000. Do not use OILED unifilter etc they damage air
    sensor.
    Gently Vac out filter box & air sensor mesh whilst
    changing filter. Ensure no air leaks.

    Snorkel: Airtec model
    for a '98+ Courier fits well, w/- airbox mods. Also kit from "Airflow"
    now available.

    Waterpump: PBR, Protex & Repco etc @ 1/2
    Nissan price. Same as D21 2.7TD (143mm hole spaces).
    Drain water
    at bottom hose or rad drain tap. Remove rad and old pump. Fit new
    pump, refit rad & fill. Easy job.

    Fanbelts: Alternator &
    Powersteer = 13A1150. A/c = 13A925. (13A = belt shape. 925 & 1150 =
    belt length).
    Fan Belt deflection: Alt = 11-13 mm. Air Cond =
    6-7.5 mm. P Steer = 8-9.5 mm. (All defl' with 98N
    force).

    Radiator: Larger capacity radiator available from
    PWR. "www.pwr.com.au" for ~$900.
    Cooling System: 10L including
    reservoir. Ethyl Glycol antifreeze.
    Radiator Cap Relief Pressure:
    78 - 98 kpa
    Thermostat: Start to open @ 82 deg C. Fully Open @ 95
    deg C (Note: Aust & import cars may be different).
    Many Terrano
    IIs run hot (mine doesn't). Check cooling system & check viscous fan
    clutch.

    Alternator: Bosch BX310051 (type KC-14V 70A). Also
    Hitachi unit.
    Starter motor: Nissan #23300-10T02. Hitachi
    #S13-107A (2.5kW, 12V 9T CW). Non genuine ~$500 (genuine ~$1100). Can
    also be rebuilt @ ~$250. Same as TD27 etc.
    Dual Battery: Piranha
    do a battery tray (sits behind left headlight). Part # BTNTD. Or make
    your own.

    Clutch: PBR did a kit, probably others do too.
    There are 2 throw out bearing sizes, quote VIN# etc for correct
    size.
    Clutch Master Cylinder: Nissan #306107F000. Girling
    #1202804. 15.9mm bore. Check # with Girling.
    Clutch Slave
    Cylinder: Nissan #3062041L00. Girling #1104253. Also 300ZX. 19mm bore.
    Check # w/-Girling.
    Bleed clutch at fitting near right rear
    wheel.

    Engine: Full rebuild kit, gasket kits, pistons, rings,
    valve regrind kits available from ACL (also via Repco).
    Head
    Gasket: ACL do 3 thicknesses. 1.05mm (#AA5190), 1.15mm (#AA5200 ),
    1.25mm (#AA5210).

    Turbo: TB25. Nissan #14411-7F400. (Garret #
    452162-0001. Service kit # 709143-0001. Gasket #
    215110).

    Engine mount: Genuine left = $130. Mackay Rubber
    also do them (#A5085 & A5092) probably
    cheaper.

    Airconditioner Condenser: Hella part # 8FC 351
    301-011.

    Gearbox: FS5R30A. 5.1L of API-GL4 oil.
    (3.58/2.077/1.36/1.0/0.811:1 ratios). Similar/same as some Patrols, V6
    Navara, 300ZX?

    Transfer case: TX10A. 2.3L API GL4 or Dexron.
    (1:2.02 low ratio). Similar/same as Patrol.
    (Marks Adaptors have 2
    lower ratios available & Calmini make lower 3.9:1 ratio gears. Check
    for correct fit).

    Propshafts: Front = OF71H. Rear = 2S80B.
    Grease all universal joints regularly.
    Tailshaft Uni: Bearing caps
    27mm across, 82mm from cap top-to-top. Cross ends are 16.5mm. Try
    Autopro for the uni's.

    Hope this helps..

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Sat 23rd April 2011 10:54am (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Re : 1999 Nissan Terrano II will not start
      Wow. Thanks for all this info John.
      Very much appreciated.
      So
      this buzz I used to hear isn't normal then. It certainly sounded like
      some sort of pump and would always be there when I switched the
      ignition on, and would run for about a second.
      The solenoid should
      be working OK as I have installed a Reconditioned Pump and I can hear
      it click in and out.
      I gather I should be able to loosen the fuel
      line on the injectors, crank the engine and watch the fuel leak out as
      I would with other diesels. There should not be any other thing
      stopping the fuel that I can see.
      But I still can't get anything
      out of the pump.
      Could it be the ECU?

      Stuart
      Lithgow, NSW, Australia - Sun 24th April 2011 01:07pm (GMT)

  • Subject : Re : 1999 Nissan Terrano II will not start
    OK, let's start at the basics.
    Where the fuel line enter the pump
    there may be a banjo bolt.
    Under this may be a gauze screen, the
    last line of defence to stop crap getting into the pump.
    If
    there, clean it.
    Now manually pump the hand pump on the fuel
    filter.
    Does fuel go through to the banjo bolt?
    If so, you
    have fuel getting to the pump.
    Now crack one of the injector lines
    open by unscrewing it carefully as you said.
    Turn the engine over
    on the key and see if any fuel squirts out..be careful... it is under
    high pressure.
    Hope this hepls
    P.S. All that info I found was
    found on an Australian site....


    - UK - Mon 25th April 2011 08:41am (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Re : 1999 Nissan Terrano II will not start
      Hi, Thanks again for helping here.
      This is pretty much what I had
      already done except I didn't remove the gauze filter as it's a newly
      reconditioned pump - but will as soon as the rain stops! So based on
      what I have checked to date, I have loosened the banjo bolt, pumped
      the hand pump and fuel flowed well, retightened the banjo bolt,
      loosened injector lines on Injectors, cranked engine - but no
      fuel.
      I even operated the Fuel cut sloenoid on a separate power
      source just to be sure it wasn't dropping out when the engine was
      cranked.
      I'm about to call the scrap metal man.
      Not sure when
      I'll get back to this as about to go on holidays to your part of the
      world - Flying into Christchurch on the 2nd May.
      Thanks again

      Stuart
      Lithgow, NSW, Australia - Tue 26th April 2011 07:49am (GMT)

  • Subject : 1999 Nissan Terrano II will not start
    I have exactly the same problem. The pump is supposed to register as
    soon as you switch on the ignition. The govenor will drive back and
    forth and then stop. If the ECU gets a wrong feedback it will cut the
    fuel. e.g. if the revs are seen as too high it cuts the fuel solenoid-
    even if the engine is not running. Can be the wiring or the pump.

    Have you sorted yours out?

    Bob
    Reading, UK - Mon 24th December 2012 12:30am (GMT)

 
Subject : 1999 nissan pickup valve adjustment
i'have a 1999 model nissan pickup
its traction is not sufficent, i
suspect this is due to valve adjustment.
i need specs of valve
clearance for QD 323 engine.

kugh
- Turkey - Thu 21st April 2011 09:38am (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : 1999 nissan pickup valve adjustment
    Off American site for QD32 valve clearances

    The valve
    clearances are done hot not running are 0.35 for both inlet and
    exhaust to be done every 20,000 kms.

    easy job simply loosen
    top nut out to free valve and tighten up when desired clearance is
    achieved with good gauges!

    Also for timing settings (do not
    attempt if you are not sure and don't have the right timing tools,
    settings are as follows -

    "with number one piston at TDC
    injection pump plunger should read 0.65+-0.02mm.
    special tools are
    need to service this area!

    Idle speed is 750 rpm (high
    hey!).
    all info is correct on my mech spec sheet i acquired but no
    responsibility taken for updates .

    Hope this helps.


    UK - Sat 23rd April 2011 06:06am (GMT)

 
Subject :

ugur
- Turkey - Thu 21st April 2011 09:32am (GMT)
 
Subject : nissan mistral
does anyone know of any one in the uk who has a nissan mistral 97
auto(not terrano) diagnostic program. we just cannot find out why it
wont go into fourth gear and we have tried everything. we have changed
sensors, cellanoids, gearbox has been revamped, even resistors have
been tried out, the ecu in the gear box has been sent off and checked
out which is ok, we have even got an ecu pin out diagrams of the gear
box and engine. i need to find some one who can find this bloody fault
as we cant get our heads around it. it will be some thing so bloody
stupid but we cannot find it. i am at a loss. i will pay good money to
get this problem solved. there has got to be some one out there.

darren hall
hull, yorkshire, UK - Sun 10th April 2011 06:42pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : nissan mistral
    If everything else checks out, possibly the only thing left is the
    main ECU itself.
    If you are very lucky, you may be able to
    get/borrow a second hand one to try out????
    If that works, you
    know what the problem is....

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Mon 11th April 2011 12:15am (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Re : nissan mistral
      looks like thats the next option, i bought another gearbox ecu and
      had the the one already in use checked out by a company who repairs
      them. looks like i will have to send the main ecu to be checked out as
      well. will give that one a try.
      kind regards
      darren

      darren hall
      hull, yorkshire, UK - Mon 11th April 2011 06:06pm (GMT)

      • Subject : Re : Re : Re : nissan mistral
        Good luck.. and don't forget to check (by removing and cleaning the
        metal contacts) any earth strap between gearbox and chassis, or engine
        and chassis, to make sure there is a good "ground"

        John
        Christchurch, NZ - Tue 12th April 2011 01:26am (GMT)

  • Subject : Re : nissan mistral
    Hi
    I had same problem.
    All we did was drain oil in gearbox and
    top up
    I know this is to easy but it worked.
    Best of luck

    Dave
    Trinant, Wales, UK - Sat 18th June 2011 09:51am (GMT)

  • Subject : Re : nissan mistral
    Hi i am having the same problem.
    My gearbox goes into 4th gear but
    drops out of torque converter lock.

    mine has been
    provisionally diagnosed as either a break in the wiring or tempeture
    solenoid or speed sensor

    all of which can be done from the
    gerabox sump.

    my problem is that i cannot find the
    transmission control module.

    i have had the interior apart to
    no avail.

    please could you e mail me or post here where you
    found the TCM for your vcar.

    mine is a 1996 non ontercooler
    mistral

    hope to hear soon
    if i get mine fixed i will let
    you know the cause

    regards paulp

    paul perry
    dagenham, essex, UK - Sun 18th September 2011 01:02pm (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : nissan mistral
      paul av got a1996 mistral tcm was behind o/s panel near rear lights av
      got the same problem you have nissan says mine electrical but they
      wont help cos its an import an they have no gen on it hope this helps

      unwin
      darwen, UK - Wed 12th September 2012 11:22am (GMT)

 
Subject : brake pads
Hi, My Mistral brake pads have lasted one year, or 30,000ks, is this
normal?
I do no towing or heavy braking, but hey have worn right
out already.
thanks
Phil

phil
Tauranga, NZ - Mon 04th April 2011 12:45am (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : brake pads
    How long is a piece of string?
    Did you put those pads in yourself
    and if you did, what quality were they?
    Are you happy with 30k to
    wear out just the front pads, and for $44 buy a middle grade of pads
    to replace them, or do you want to get "hard as" pads which will
    probably last a lot longer, cost more, squeal more, not work as well
    when cold, and wear out your brake rotors instead ?
    You get what
    you pay for, and how and where you drive is also important.
    It's
    your choice, and your habits that make or break vehicles.....

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Mon 04th April 2011 10:06am (GMT)

 
Subject : Instrument panel lights
Hi, I need to replace several bulbs in the instrument panel of my 95
mistral. I am told these bulbs will be "baseless" and could be either
2.5 watt or 5 watt. I think it would be unwise to put in the wrong
wattage. Can anyone help or point me to where to find that info.
thanks

Grahame Cattermole
Dunedin, NZ - Thu 31st March 2011 07:36am (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : Instrument panel lights
    Sorry cant remember what wattage they were but they dont have a base
    on the bulb and are push in bulbs , there was 4 or 5 blown bulbs in
    ours when we had it and was a pretty easy job to pull the instrument
    panel out to change them .


    steve
    ashburton, nz - Thu 31st March 2011 08:33am (GMT)

  • Subject : Re : Instrument panel lights
    The job has now been done and I can report that most of the lights
    were very small (physically) 1.2 watt bulbs with 3 others specially
    marked which were 3 watt. Fortunately the bulbs are cheap, about $1
    each.

    Grahame
    Dunedin, NZ - Fri 08th April 2011 11:36pm (GMT)

 
Subject : nissan mistral 97-2.7td
deos anyone know wher i can get an engine ecu pin out diagram for my
nissan minstral 2.7td.
kind regards

darren hall
hull, yorkshire, UK - Tue 22nd March 2011 07:25pm (GMT)
 
Subject : keys
Hi, I have a 1995 mistral and need a spare key. The current one is not
chipped. How and where can I apply for one. I tried local nissan
dealer, useless!Any suggestions?NICK

nick griffiths
pershore, worcestershire, UK - Tue 22nd March 2011 05:29am (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : keys
    Try a locksmith?

    UK - Tue 22nd March 2011 07:12am (GMT)

 
Subject : nissan terrano II 1997 LWB 2.7TDI
My Terrano has developed a mind of its own and jumps forward as I call
it all by its self! I have been told this is called Hunting! It will
rev up all by itself when pulling up to junctions with my clutch in
and also hunt forward whilst being driven, this is normally coupled
with the orange engine management light coming on! It always starts
has never stalled, has had a new diesel filter fitted new air filters,
oil and filter change. Help!

lisa lewis
aberystwyth, wales, UK - Sun 20th March 2011 10:41am (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : nissan terrano II 1997 LWB 2.7TDI
    Before getting the codes on the ECU read, I would trace the fuel pipe
    from the filter to the fuel injection pump, and where it connects to
    the fuel injection pump, undo the banjo bolt, carefully withdraw the
    bolt and check if there is a gauze filter, the last line of defense
    against crap getting into your pump.
    If there is, dig it out
    carefully, and clean it clinically.
    Use the pump on the normal
    fuel filter to push some fuel through to make sure the line is
    clean,(catch this fuel on rags or in a small jar and throw it away)
    then replace the gauze filter and do up the banjo bolt.
    Start the
    engine and see if it makes a difference.
    If not, get the codes
    read (it will probably be the lift sensor on the No1 injector or the
    sensor in the injector pump as both return the same fault code.

    This has been covered on this site before. Happy reading, it will
    save you money...

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Sun 20th March 2011 11:32am (GMT)

 
Subject : Terrano engine
Hi

I've got a Terrano (done just over 36,000 miles) which
developed a 'runaway' engine goin g down the M1...MOST TERRIFYING
EXPERIENCE OF MY LIFE. (Youtube video in production to explain just
how nasty an experience) Nissan say because it is out of warranty
I've got to pay to have the problem diagnosed (That'll be approx £800
thank hyou very much!) (Dishonourable, disreputable or what!) It's
been suggested to me that I may need a new engine (inc turbo I guess)
and if Nissan do it it will cost in the region of £6000!! I feel
there must have been a serious fault with this engine and would like
to prove it but can't afford to throw money at it. Any ideas would be
appreciated.

C Cahill
Sheffield, UK - Wed 16th March 2011 07:38pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : Terrano engine
    Can't be very terrifying if you had time to make a video. Why don't
    you use words to describe it? Why did you not put vehicle in neutral,
    you can't runaway then?
    P.S. applying the brakes will always stop
    a runaway vehicle; brakes are always more powerful than the vehicle no
    matter what the conditions.
    PPS diesels need air and fuel. Take
    away one or the other and they won't run.
    Thery can run on sump
    oil, so if there is a catastrophic leak of sump oil into the intake of
    a diesel (turbo seal gives way, worn rings producing blowby/oil into
    intake or past piston rings, then they can only be stopped by blocking
    the air intake. DON'T use your hands to block the air intake!!!
    So
    tell us exactly what happened ?????

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Wed 16th March 2011 09:23pm (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Re : Terrano engine

      Hi

      I didn't actually make a video at the time obviously.
      I am making a video to describe my experience and to alert others
      about this issue. A 'runaway' engine is not a 'runaway' car: It is
      where the diesel engine runs off it's own oil (not needing fuel to be
      injected) and hence does not stop when you turn the engine off. Rather
      the engine continues to rev at high speed, belches out masses of black
      smoke and (unless you're familiar with the phenomenon) you think it
      could explode at any moment (and I had my kids and parents-in-law in
      the car at the time. I have since been told that you can stall an
      engine when it does this and you may save your engine...but I didn't
      know that at the time...and so watched it 'burn itself out' on the
      side of the motorway. Thanks for the really supportive comments.

      C Cahill
      UK - Thu 17th March 2011 02:55pm (GMT)

  • Subject : Re : Terrano engine
    Hmmm, still no reply??? What did your scan of the ECU reveal? What
    faults were there? This report sounds very "over the top"; like
    something a competitor brand would write to cast aspersions on these
    vehicles??? What year Terrano? What model? What engine? It just does
    not ring true....

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Thu 17th March 2011 11:11am (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Re : Terrano engine
      Sorry but I'm not a mechanic...What really happened was I was
      travelling to London with my family (7 of us on board). Travelling
      down the M1. Had done about 70 miles no problem, car running fine.
      Then I notice a noise (like rustling/small vibrating) and ask my
      father-in-law in passenger seat to check if anything is rattling in
      glove compartment. Nothing. Then I notice the car doesn't seem to
      respond to my taking foot off accelerator as it should...but we're
      going downhill and I think maybe that's it. Then i hear a faint like
      whistling noise and I check to see if it's windy outside, but no. Take
      my foot off accelerator again and again notice slow to lose speed. No
      warning lights or overheating registering on my dashboard. The I
      notice the smoke coming from rear. Alert my husband who is sitting in
      very back but the smoke is rapidly getting thicker and blacker and I
      can hear the engine racing. Pull over, stop the car but when I turn
      key to turn engine off it just keeps on revving and the doors lock.
      The car is surrounded by smoke. My daughter gets her back door open
      and we make our escape. The engine continues to rev for I can't
      remember how long (5 minutes?) then 'dies'. I've provided Nissan (GB)
      with a description and they are not challenging the veracity of my
      statement: they actually provided me with a possible explanation, all
      hypothetical of course, as I'm not willing to pay them to find out
      what precisely went wrong here. Apologies for not responding sooner:
      I've got a job and family taking up most of my time.

      C Cahill
      Sheffield, UK - Thu 17th March 2011 03:39pm (GMT)

      • Subject : Re : Re : Re : Terrano engine
        I do apologise for any suffering caused by my previous remarks.

        You must have been terrifically scared, and as you say, you are
        not a mechanic. You have since found out what to do, i.e. put the car
        in top gear and stand on the brakes. This should stall the motor.

        May work for a manual gearbox, but in the case of an automatic,
        this won't work.
        The only way to stop the engine is to shove a
        large solid piece of material like a blanket into the air intake, for
        which you would need a lot of courage to be loosening off the intake
        pipe of a screaming engine to enable you to do that.
        You did the
        right thing, and let it blow, after making sure your family was
        safe.
        How old is the Terrano? How far out of warranty? Have you
        consulted with any motoring organisations of which you might like to
        quickly become a member? Is your local paper interested in a "good"
        story?
        Have you researched any other web references to this
        problem? I can't think of one other occurence on this site 2004 to
        2011, it certainly is not common.
        The "whistling " you heard
        sounds like the turbo oil seal letting go. If you can stand to do so,
        open up the intercooler and hose after the turbo and see if it is full
        of sump oil.
        This would tend to confirm the above prognosis and
        saves you 800 towards a new engine.
        I presume the engine consumed
        all it's sump oil and seized for lack of lubrication?
        Second hand
        may be the way to go if you can't come to an amicable arrangement with
        Nissan? (You buy it,they install it for free?? or you park your
        vehicle outside their premises with a "lemon" sign on it and go public
        in the newspaper/TV etc?
        Good luck, and your words gave us as
        much information as any video!

        John
        Christchurch, NZ - Thu 17th March 2011 10:48pm (GMT)

        • Subject : Re : Re : Re : Re : Terrano engine
          Thanks. Appreciate your response. I have done some research and have
          found one other referred to on another site (where it was put down to
          having too much engine oil). Definitely wasn't the issue in my case as
          it was in fact overdue a service (10,000 miles since last
          service..which Nissan were quick to point out to me.) It's out of
          warranty on grounds of having been registered as new in 2006. The
          dealership have said that this engine is no longer made and they
          cannot get a re-conditioned one.
          I have now removed the vehicle
          from Nissan dealership to have it inspected by professionals at a
          fraction of the cost Nissan wanted. I have a lot of faith in this new
          company as engines are their speciality.
          What I truly resent is
          Nissan expecting me to pay (at an inflated cost) to establish what
          happened with this car. I feel very strongly that they should want to
          know: as it is, it seems they're happy to never get to the bottom of
          it. Given this response I would wonder what else is lurking out there
          in Nissan cars. Sites like this are the consumers only way of knowing.

          Love the "lemon" idea, but I'm a public sector worker with a
          responsible job so don't want to cause any embarrassment at local
          level. But I'm still planning my YouTube video (and considering how to
          max my hits).

          C Cahil
          Sheffield, UK - Sun 20th March 2011 05:27pm (GMT)

          • Subject : Re : Re : Re : Re : Re : Terrano engine
            This problem is not that uncommon in S.A. as our vehicles operate at
            quite extreme temperatures in often dusty conditions at high altitude.
            My one 2.7 has clocked more than 800 000 kilometeres and it did just
            the same. (except i was able to kill the engine before it
            selfdestructed)

            I agree 100% with the possible causes of the
            "runaway" engine.

            To repair it, could prove costly if the
            turbo and sub-assembly is shot. A replacement secondhand motor could
            be more cost effective. We are able to buy secondhand Japanese import
            motors in reasonable condition for +/- 750-900 pounds here in
            S.A.(excludes fitment).

            Also important: Diesel engines
            operate at much higher compression ratios than petrol engines,
            producing a lot bigger stresses on internals. Maintenance of a diesel
            is crucial to its longevity. People tend to skimp on servicing the
            aircleaner quite often here, forgetting that a "clogged" intake will
            make the fuelmixture in the combustionchamber "richer" causing the
            engine to run hotter. Sometimes so hot the pistontops melt away or at
            the very least causing excessive engine wear due to the oil breaking
            down. Also have your injectors and dieselpump checked, calibrated and
            serviced to ensure proper fueling.

            Hope this
            helps.

            Also check out www.nissan4x4.co.za and chat to the
            guys there, we love our nissans and would gladly help out with
            info.

            Kind Regards,

            Emil
            Parys, Freestate, RSA - Sun 12th June 2011 07:03pm (GMT)

 
Subject : parts
Hi just wondering if anyone has details of nissan parts suppliers
local to preston
Thanks Mark

mark
preston, UK - Sun 13th March 2011 09:57pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : parts
    West Way Rochdale Nissan
    - Place page
    www.westwaynissan.co.uk
    - Kingsway, Rochdale, Lancashire - 0844 387 7685
    Chorley
    Nissan
    - Place page
    www.chorley-nissan.co.uk - Ackhurst Rd,
    Chorley - 012572 66001
    Chorley Nissan Wigan
    - Place
    page
    www.chorley-nissan.co.uk - Pottery Rd, Wigan, Lancashire -
    01942 820 233
    West Way Oldham Nissan
    - Place
    page
    www.westwaynissan.co.uk - St Mary's Way, Oldham, Greater
    Manchester - 0844 387 7683
    Chorley Nissan
    - 2 reviews - Place
    page
    www.chorley-nissan.co.uk - Westgate, Burnley - 01282 434
    300
    West Way Manchester Nissan
    - Place
    page
    www.westwaynissan.co.uk - Chancellor Lane, Ardwick,
    Manchester - 0844 387 7682

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Sun 13th March 2011 11:40pm (GMT)

 
Subject : Lost wheel nut key
Help!!..Iv'e had my 1994 2.7 Nissan Mistral since Christmas 2010,and a
pleasure to own despite a few daft niggles to sort out.
My main
one is having no locking nut key.Yes i did contact the garage whom i
bought it from(who insist it was in the glovebox!)but seemed more
concerned that i'd driven away with their for sale sign in the car
that THEY forgot to remove lol.
So i have been questioning my
sanity since this call,as to how a meticulous person like me could
have lost it somehow(the fact i have a work commuting car and my
wife's car to look after also,i suppose it's possible i lost it).

Anyway my local garage say £35+vat if they can get all 5 off within
half-hour,or double it if not!(but did say he'll know better if/when i
take car in).
So would anyone happen to have a spare one they
can maybe lend or sell me even?Or even tell me how much nissan would
be to supply a new nut?(i presume i will need a number/code but no
books with car other than mot and v5.)
I'm sick of these things
and will happily replace with standard nuts once off.The house has
been searched repeatedly along with every crevice in the cars and am
looking no more.
Wouldn't be so bad but i bought a 2 piece set
from halfords that removes all nuts,well most,but not mine's it
seems.
P.s a big thanks to all for previous advice earlier on
this year(helping me understand my first import/4x4/automatic car
better,just been too busy looking for my nut until now!!

Brian R
Perth, Tayside, Scotland - Wed 09th March 2011 05:38am (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : Lost wheel nut key
    I would have "swapped" the garage who sold you the vehicle...their
    sign back if they take the nuts off.
    The previous private owner,
    do you have details/can you contact him, does he still have a spare
    key????
    I am glad the Halfords set did NOT take off the wheel
    nuts.. any thief could do the same, so that's reassuring that it
    wasn't able to.
    Are the nuts original Nissan? If so Nissan may be
    able to help??
    The "key" you need, is it an indentation/projection
    match which fits over the locking nut and then uses the wheel brace to
    undo it, or is there actually a key involved with a rotating outer
    cover over the inner nut?
    You might be better off going to an
    engineer, a cutting wheel on a grinder or a welded on lever may be
    cheaper than the quote from your garage, especially if they want to
    charge more the longer it takes????
    In regard to the garagre
    that sold you the car, I would not question my sanity, I would
    question their honesty..I don't believe for a moment that the key was
    in the vehicle when you drove it off the yard, yards usually clean
    their vehicles meticulously, but it would be an unusual person who
    could remember that a particular key was in a particular vehicle....
    if you get my meaning?
    Best of luck, don't "lose your nut" over
    this...

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Wed 09th March 2011 06:52am (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Re : Lost wheel nut key
      Thanks John,I'm 'nut' an expert on these things but did notice it
      seems to have an inner/outer rotating part like what you
      mentioned...well certainly not like any usual lock nut i have had on
      any car before.
      My local garage i now use do have a good
      reputation so everyone tells me, (even though i'm a fairly new
      local)and think he was saying if its that type of spinning nut can it
      can be a bit of a pain,but they would do their best to get the 5 off
      within the half hour).
      Still i did try the daft halfords one
      for about 3 hours before i noticed that,so even if it did grab
      eventually,it was still never going to come off.
      The garage i
      bought car from had to do shocker bushes etc for mot,so reckon they
      would have been last to use it for sure.Usually i would check for that
      at any purchase of a car but was probably more concerned as to me
      buying my first auto car,and if i thought it was a fair deal for the
      money etc(as never been in one,let alone owned or driven one until
      that day,as i presumed i was going to view a manual 4x4).

      Plan b...as an AA member,if my dear wife was unfortunate enough to
      have a puncture on one of her trips,or me even,then they would have to
      get my spare wheel off!!..then he/she may as well do the rest while
      their at it...here's hoping!thanks again.


      Brian
      Perth, Tayside, Scotland - Wed 09th March 2011 12:34pm (GMT)

      • Subject : Re : Re : Re : Lost wheel nut key
        I like your plan B.
        You really are a Scot, aren't you?
        Good
        thinking,good luck!

        John
        Christchurch, NZ - Wed 09th March 2011 10:07pm (GMT)

 
Subject : Switch off alarm on Terrano
Hi, I'm wondering if its possible to switch off the alarm on my 1999
Terrano 2.7TD? If I leave the dog in the car I have to leave it
unlocked, otherwise he sets the alarm off. I have tried locking the
door with the key instead of the keyfob but it still arms the alarm. I
would appreciate if anyone has the answer. Thanks, Mark

Mark
shrewsbury, shropshire, UK - Sat 05th March 2011 10:36pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : Switch off alarm on Terrano
    Hi Mark. On the dash to the left of the steering wheel is a swith with
    a symbol of a car with a cross.Press this just before you close the
    door and then lock in the normal way.This switch disarms the internal
    movement sensors. Took me a while to discover this too! Cheers, Ian.

    Ian Moss
    Shrewsbury, Shropshire, UK - Sun 06th March 2011 02:44pm (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Re : Switch off alarm on Terrano
      Thanks Ian, i've tried this now & it works as you said. I always
      wondered what that switch was really for, I guessed it was supposed to
      shut the siren off but maybe it was broken!

      Mark
      Shrewsbury, Shropshire, UK - Wed 09th March 2011 08:53pm (GMT)

 
Subject : 4 wd gear gate diagram
My nephew in Spain has aquired a :
Nissan terrano 4x4 2.4i Petrol
4 wheel drive.

Can anyone advise the correct positioning for
the 4 wheel drive gearstick: 1/ which position is for two wheel drive?
Does anyone have a diagram for the 4 wheel drive gate?
Any
assistance will be very much appreciated.

Sorry the year of
manufacture is not known, but is more than ten years
old.

Thank you

Best regards,


Anthony
Porritt UK

Anthony Porritt
Bridlington, East Yorkshire, UK - Wed 02nd March 2011 08:53pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : 4 wd gear gate diagram
    The 4WD shifter usually has a diagram inscribed on the top of that
    gearshift knob.
    Furthest towards the dash is 2WD. First position
    towards the rear is 4WD High.
    Then you push the gearshift in
    towards the gearbox i.e. vertically down like you shifted the old
    Escorts into Reverse, and you move the shifter as far towards the rear
    as it will go (while the vehicle is at a standstill and in neutral on
    the main gearbox.)
    From 4 low to go to 4 High, press the gearlever
    vertically again, at standstill, in neutral, and move the selector to
    4 high.
    You can move from 4 High to 2 High at any speed, but
    suggest under 25kmhr is being mechanically sympathetic to the
    vehicle.
    Don't forget that the front hubs still have to be
    engaged/disengaged, whether you have auto hubs or manual
    ones.
    Read previous postings for a fuller explanation.

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Thu 03rd March 2011 10:32am (GMT)

 
Subject : Overheating
Hi there ,Mistral 96 s/wb had trans rebuilt ,changed water temp sensor
.Gauge shows red hot for temp when climbing hills but cools instantly
down hill.Measured radiator temp when hot at 85C. fitted new
transcooler in front of radiator.measured 70C when gauge shows red
hot.Runs very well?Does the electric fan on radiator work only for
aircon or should it run for engine as well?Desperate ,Cheers Joe Greig

joe greig
Auckland, NZ - Tue 01st March 2011 10:52pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : Overheating
    My initial reaction would be suspicion of the new temperature
    sensor.
    However,I presume you had some reason for changing this
    sensor, rather than changing the thermostat?
    Do you still have the
    old sensor?
    If so, refit it and see if the "normal" temperature
    under the old sensor has changed.
    85 is not "red hot" and I
    presume there are no other signs of overheating, other than the
    guage?
    Electric fan is for A/C, main fan does everything else and
    is controlled by the heat flowing back from the radiator.
    Is
    this fan "roaring" more than usual, i.e. can you hear it constantly
    on?

    Otherwise I would be buying a Nissan thermostat and
    fitting that ASAP.
    See previous posts re "overheating" caused by
    partially open/shut thermostat, especially cheap ones from the local
    parts shop which may not be the right size for this
    application.
    There is a noticeable difference.

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Wed 02nd March 2011 02:49am (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Re : Overheating
      Thanks John,one piece missing is the sensor that has 4 wires and
      controls the cold run on start up which is beside temp sensor on
      head.Nissan only show Terrano heads which dont have the four wire
      sensor even wreckers dont have any ,any suggestions ?The original one
      seems to have been broken off by previous owner.

      joe greig
      auckland, Devonport, NZ - Wed 09th March 2011 05:18pm (GMT)

      • Subject : Re : Re : Re : Overheating
        If your model has square headlights, there (theoretically) are 2x
        two-wire sensors.
        If it is the round headlight model, it should
        have a 2 wire sensor and a 1x wire sensor.
        The 1x wire sensor is
        not available as a new part from Nissan. This is the temperature guage
        sensor.
        Therefore if you have recently had it replaced, it may be
        off calibration to the original, giving incorrect
        readings.

        The two wire sensor may have a red or blue plug
        connecting to the wiring harness, and it sends the signal to the ECU.
        It is available from Nissan.

        Info via Peter at Cockram Nissan
        parts, CHCH. One of the good guys.

        Ring a Nissan parts place
        near you or take it in to the Nissan garage for the foreman's
        attention/consultation, in case you have a rare example (otherwise
        known as an orphan!)
        I am sure that when removing/
        replacing
        thermostats these plugs have been broken by mechanics
        before.
        Don't ask me how I know, they/I get fragile with age)

        Good luck!

        John
        Christchurch, NZ - Fri 11th March 2011 02:28am (GMT)

 
Subject : water leak - nissan terrano 2004 lwb
Hi, Anyone know where the drainage holes are located around the bulk
head on Nissan Terrano

Harry
belfast, UK - Sun 27th February 2011 11:57pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : water leak - nissan terrano 2004 lwb
    At the bottom and to the sides of the airbox which holds the
    windscreen wiper mechanism (not the w/w motor, the linkages to the
    spindles.)
    It allows the water to drain to the join between the
    front wings and the front of the front doors (both sides)
    Try
    squirting high pressure water into this area to reverse flush the
    blocked drains, it is easier than taking the wiper arms off etc to
    gain access.
    You could also try the high pressure water trick down
    the air intake grille angled to both sides if you suspect
    blockages.
    See below for the other drains from the sunroof, check
    windscreen seal and that plastic panel.
    Once you've read right
    through this site, FAQs are easier to answer

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Mon 28th February 2011 07:53am (GMT)

 
Subject : Water Leak
Hi just wondering if anybody can help,I found a small lake in the
passenger foot well this morning i assume that there must be drain
channels that could be blocked where are they? and are they worth
checking before i do anything else? any help would be a great help.
thanks Mark.

Mark Robinson
Preston, Lancs, UK - Sat 26th February 2011 08:46pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : Water Leak
    What colour or smell to the "water"?
    Has it been raining, has the
    vehicle been on a lean, is your radiator/coolant recovery bottle still
    at the correct level?
    Have you been using air conditioning?

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Sat 26th February 2011 11:42pm (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Re : Water Leak
      The water is clear clean and fresh it happend after a heavy nights
      rain so i assume its rain related, there is also water ingress in the
      boot area.

      mark
      preston, UK - Mon 28th February 2011 08:37pm (GMT)

  • Subject : Re : Water Leak
    Subject : Water Leak
    I have a 1998 Nissan Mistral 4x4.
    It has
    developed a problem where water is entering the front foot-wells of
    both sides of the car.
    The car has a sun roof and is a 3 door. I
    cannot find anything visibly wrong with the door/sunroof seals.The
    heater is poor but I am not losing water from the engine.
    Today I
    had to literally bail out the water.
    Please can you help me in any
    way
    Many thanks
    Debbie
    Debra Jones
    CARDIFF, UK - Thu
    18th January 2007 05:40pm (GMT)

    * Subject : Re : Water
    Leak
    may be seal on windscreen

    UK - Thu 18th
    January 2007 10:50pm (GMT)

    * Subject : Re : Water
    Leak
    Hi,

    Found this site through searching
    for leaky Mistral on Google! My Dad has a '97 3 door and is having
    same problem, although his only affects passenger side well. He is
    putting a full newspaper under the mat every night to absorb the
    water. Only seems to come in when car is stationery, suggesting not
    being thrown up from the road. I will watch replies here with
    interest, as I have searched online and not come up with many
    solutions, although this type of leak does seem common in Terranos as
    well.


    Lesley
    - Cornwall, UK - Mon 26th
    February 2007 04:16pm (GMT)
    o Subject : Re : Re : Water
    Leak
    Terrano mkll lwb 1997. I had a leak coming
    through the screw fixings that hold down the rubber seal under the
    bonnet. By carefully removing the grey plastic panel below the
    windscreen wipers you will see a small cover panel that is directly
    above the blower Fan intake inside the front passanger footwell.use a
    small amount of silicone sealent around the gaskets and screws as they
    are refitted.that solved my leak. you could use a few strips of
    waterproof duct tape over the first few rubber seal fixing holes and
    around the end of the plastic facia panel next to the bonnet hinge and
    if this stops the water then you know what to do. hope this solves
    your leak..
    Graham
    Fareham, Hants, UK
    - Fri 13th July 2007 09:17pm (GMT)

    * Subject : Re : Water
    Leak
    Have had this problem. Have T2 1997 SR with elec s/r.
    Happened just after converted to LPG and thought may have been
    related. Was only on drivers side. Also extremely heavy rain for days.
    Sun roof appeared ok. Then adjusted door lock fitting and fingers
    crossed has now been ok for about 3 weeks. Even after heavy rain.

    Mal
    Liverpool, Merseyside, UK - Mon 21st April 2008
    10:41am (GMT)

    * Subject : Re : Water Leak
    Slide
    the sunroof open. Stand up through the opening & look at the front of
    the channel corners. There is a drain hole each side. If these become
    blocked or the drain pipe inside the pillar splits the water will
    enter the car.
    It cured my flooding problem.

    Bernie
    Burntwood, Burntwood, UK - Tue 19th August 2008
    11:20pm (GMT)

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Mon 28th February 2011 07:45am (GMT)

 
Subject : christchurch earthquake
Hope everyone in ch ch ok and thoughts go out to everyone who have
lost family and friends . And hope John from ch ch ( our regular
nissan forum advice bloke ) and family ok too .


steve
ashburton, nz - Wed 23rd February 2011 07:44am (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : christchurch earthquake
    Family and friends all good, only minor damage (never liked that arty
    bit of glass anyway)
    Family spent the night with me.
    Thanks
    for the thoughts.

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Wed 23rd February 2011 09:31am (GMT)

 
Subject : leaking sunroof
my 10 year old has developed a leak from the sunroof. the drain pipes
have been checked and are clear.the problem seems to be where the
glass roof is located in a metal frame and this leaks at the front
leading corners. the water has burnt out the electric motor, and now
every time i go round a corner, water pours from the switch control
panel, being the lowest central point.
nissan parts are hugely
expensive and you have to purchase the complete sun roof cassette, in
excess of £800
any suggestions are similar experiences out there?

malcolm
liverpool - Tue 22nd February 2011 12:47am (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : leaking sunroof
    How many times do you use the sunroof?
    I have heard of people
    using RTV and sealing it just for this reason.
    Have a look in
    your manual on how to shut/open the sunroof in an emergency if you
    have no motor.
    Then decide what you are going to do.

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Wed 23rd February 2011 10:03am (GMT)

 
Subject : mistral trans.
Thanks John for your quick reply.To answer some of your questions,we
take the vehicle up hills at a steady climb in 2nd.no a/t overheating
according to the gauge,water temp usually shows about 1/3 then 1/2at
top and rapidly drops to 1/3,not towing,not in 4wd but will still give
trouble in 4wd.o/d switchoff confirmed by light. Will replace
thermostat and spray switches,i presume you mean the switches under
the car by the trans unit?Yes the vehicle has been totally reliable
since we have had it done 85000kms with no other problems. Thanks
again TOM

Tom
manukau city, nz - Mon 21st February 2011 08:24pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : mistral trans.
    Use the contact cleaner on the O/D switch on the gear selector in the
    cab.
    Underneath, carefully take off each electrical connector
    leading to the transmission, spray the contacts and the plug, and
    reconnect.
    I find this spray usually solves most electrical
    contact problems, including cleaning trailer plugs every time I plug
    in.
    Thermostat replacement a good idea especially if not done in 8
    years!
    Renew the antifreeze mix at the same time, of
    course.
    That covers the relatively easy stuff. After that, it
    means delving into the transmission ($$$$$$$$$) and for the relatively
    minor pita fault that it has, not really worth it???
    In due course
    another trans fluid flush and filter may do wonders?
    Happy
    motoring.

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Mon 21st February 2011 09:28pm (GMT)

 
Subject : mistral trans.
One for John the expert. John i have a long term problem with my 1995
mistral trans. After a long climb particually on metal surfaces the
vehicle will not return to top gear till we stop and cool down.Note
the oil has been changed 20000 ks ago and still is clean.It has been
suggested to me that it could be the switch gear? This has been a
problem for 8 years now.Often the problem will not occur for some time
after a hill and sometimes i can overcome it by manually shifting to
second and then back to top then everything okay.Any ideas would be
most welcome Cheers Tom

Tom
manukau city, nz, UK - Sun 20th February 2011 09:50pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : mistral trans.
    I am no expert, but I have experienced a lot! And fixed a few!
    I
    take it you give it a decent thrashing doing this long hill work,
    more revs and in lower gears than average daily driving?
    This may
    disturb a piece of crud and block a passage in the fluid flow thereby
    stopping overdrive functioning?
    What temperature is showing on the
    water temperature guage?
    Is the A/T overheating, check engine
    light coming on?
    Are you towing anything?
    Is it all slow
    speed work, no airflow through the radiator?
    Can you hear the fan
    sucking air when things get hot?
    Are you in 4WD?
    If you
    continue over the brow of the hill and work the engine hard retarding
    downward progress, does the temperature in the radiator immediately
    drop significantly with 1 km?
    Possibly sticking thermostat partly
    open but not fully (when did you last put in a Nissan OEM
    thermostat?)
    Do you have the overdrive switch in the "out/off"
    position (and does the light on the dash reflect this?)
    These
    switches if they are not worked often can "crud up" and not restore
    contact when switched. Sometimes rapid switching in and out will
    restore it, otherwise give it a blast of contact cleaner if it doesn't
    function every time.
    Other than that, I take it the Mistral has
    never let you down??

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Mon 21st February 2011 11:49am (GMT)

 
Subject : mistral trans.izsb

Tom
manukau city, nz, UK - Sun 20th February 2011 09:41pm (GMT)
 
Subject : Nissan Regulus Speedometer
I have a 1998 Nissan Regulus (imported from Japan). Recently the
speedometer just went dead. The Rev counter works and shows the egnine
rev.
Does anyone have any suggestions or can anyone tell me what
signals (of where i can get info) I should be getting from the Speedo
Converter (the electronic transducer module)?
Thanks,
Ramin.

Ramin
Guildford, Surrey, UK - Sun 13th February 2011 01:44pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : Nissan Regulus Speedometer
    Previous postings on this site mention that it is a known fault with
    these dashboards that either tacho or speedo give up functioning at
    some stage.
    It is down to a break in the circuit board from
    vibrations/bad solder.
    Try slamming your hand down hard on the
    dash, it may temporarily make it work again.
    Conversely, it could
    put the other guages out of action.
    Query the web re dashboard
    replacements/instrument panel replacements.
    Good luck

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Sun 13th February 2011 04:15pm (GMT)

  • Subject : Re : Nissan Regulus Speedometer
    http://www.clusterrepairsuk.co.uk/repair-list/nissan/terrano/
    >Hope it's not too expensive.....

    John
    - NZ - Sun 13th February 2011 04:20pm (GMT)

  • Subject : Re : Nissan Regulus Speedometer
    http://www.bba-reman.com/content.aspx?content=Nissan_Terrano_cluster_f
    ailing

    John
    - NZ - Sun 13th February 2011 04:22pm (GMT)

 
Subject : timing belt/chain
at what millage do you change timing belt for nissan terrano 3.0
litre, petrol engine?

chansa chibowa
SOLWEZI, solwezi, zambia - Thu 03rd February 2011 04:05pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : timing belt/chain
    It is a timing belt.
    Procedure
    below.

    http://autorepair.about.com/cs/doityourself/a/aa051102
    a.htm

    Recommended at 60,000 miles (100,000km)
    Do the
    timing belt tensioner, and the o- ring gasket on the crankshaft at the
    same time


    UK - Fri 04th February 2011 02:59am (GMT)

 
Subject : timing belt/chain
at what millage do you change timing belt for nissan terrano 3.0
litre, petrol engine?

chansa chibowa
SOLWEZI, solwezi, zambia - Thu 03rd February 2011 03:50pm (GMT)
 
Subject : Kenlowe Fan
Is it possible to fit a Kenlowe (or Pacet)type electric cooling fan to
the Terrano? Mine is a 2.7 (W reg).Any info would be much
appreciated!!

Mossyman
Shrewsbury, UK - Tue 01st February 2011 02:28pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : Kenlowe Fan
    I looked at doing this too when my water pump started to leak.
    I
    looked at the distance from the regular fan to the radiator, and
    estimated that the best way would be to cut through the shaft, cutting
    off the thermo fan clutch and the fan, leaving only a stub shaft after
    the pulley, (which is still needed to rotate the water pump).
    Then
    you would have to install the correct-size Kenlowe fan, and a
    thermostatically controlled relay to activate it. The thermostat would
    be most accurate if inserted in the cooling water passage somewhere,
    perhaps in a custom-made pipe to house it in the top hose.
    Then I
    looked at the system that is there as fitted by Nissan.
    It is
    also a thermo system, activates for the first kilometre or so when
    starting from cold, them switches itself off until the heat in the air
    coming from the radiator reaches a level where it reactivates the
    fan.
    It works, and works well.
    If you have overheating
    problems, unless this clutch is knackered, the problem lies
    elsewhere.
    I stayed with the original.

    John
    Christchurch, Nz - Tue 01st February 2011 10:54pm (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Re : Kenlowe Fan
      Thanks for your reply.There are no overheating probs - just takes a
      lifetime to warm up during this cold weather - and maybe help fuel
      consumption a bit? I too thought the gap between pully and rad looked
      slim. Will chew it over some more! Hope all is well in NZ! The Missus
      would move there tomorow if she could! Cheers.....

      mossyman
      Shrewsbury, UK - Wed 02nd February 2011 05:08pm (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Re : Kenlowe Fan
      Aha, the old "taking a long time to heat up" trick.
      Replace your
      thermostat with the proper one from Nissan. It is longer than most of
      the ones bought from factors, and wider in the opening;it made a huge
      difference in warm up.
      Note also in a previous posting that the
      glow plugs continue functioning until the engine reaches 50C, so a
      long warm up sucks the battery every start!!
      My normal temp is now
      spot on halfway, where it sits all the time, winter or
      summer.
      Previously with a replacement non OE thermostat it was at
      1/3 or lower on the guage, yet up near hot in summer, a combination of
      opening too early but not being big enough to supply enough flow when
      hot.
      Sort of like trying to breathe with a hand gripping your
      throat.
      In relation to moving to NZ, if you have lots of family
      and friends now in the UK, it can be a hard slog starting from scratch
      here. All the support structures built up over the years have to be
      rebuilt, things are "not like home". We love visitors, UK passport
      holders get 6 months visit by turning up at our airports with a valid
      ticket to somewhere else and enough money to support themselves while
      here. Special applications can be made for extension of visitors
      visas, students, work permits etc.
      we do speak a form of English.

      John
      Christchurch, NZ - Thu 03rd February 2011 01:25am (GMT)

  • Subject : Re : Kenlowe Fan
    Hi Mosseyman,I also have a W reg Terrano, live near Shrewsbury &
    decided to fit an electric fan! I took the original fan off a couple
    of months ago but found the gap left was less than the thickness of
    the slimline one I had purchased. Since then I have just left it off &
    its bben fine, even towing, & it warms up in a couple of miles instead
    of 10! Must do something before the summer comes though. Maybe fit a
    smaller diameter one in front of the aircon rad & blow through instead
    of suck. Regards, Mark

    Mark
    Shrewsbury, Shropshire, UK - Sat 05th March 2011 10:49pm (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Re : Kenlowe Fan
      Hi Mark. Thanks.Did you just unbolt the fan itself or the pulley
      wheel? Will have a look at your idea for the blow fan in front of the
      aircon rad. Cheers, Ian.

      Ian Moss
      Shrewsbury, Shropshire, UK - Sun 06th March 2011 03:26pm (GMT)

      • Subject : Re : Re : Re : Kenlowe Fan
        Hi again Ian. I took the fan off, then unbolted half of the viscous
        coupling. If you want to take off any more you would need attack it
        with the angle grinder, so I left it at that. I was not brave enough
        but it might just liberate enough room! Regards, Mark

        Mark
        Shrewsbury, Shropshire, UK - Wed 09th March 2011 08:59pm (GMT)

 
Subject : nissan terrano 3.0
Hi,
I have a terrano 3.0 on an 03 plate, and during the recent
cold spell my rear wiper and intermitant front wiper have stopped
working. Have checked fuses and they are ok. Was wondering if anyone
has any ideas on this problem.
Many thanks in advance

gary vanner
Epping, UK - Mon 31st January 2011 10:48pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : nissan terrano 3.0
    Are both those functions on the one stalk?
    If so, it is possible
    that the contacts in the switch at the bottom of the stalk need
    electrical contact cleaner sprayed on them, and the switches rotated
    to clean them.
    When you say you checked the fuses, did you do it
    with a meter, or "by eye"?
    See previous on testing by Digital Volt
    meter.

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Tue 01st February 2011 10:10am (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Re : nissan terrano 3.0
      Yes, both functions operate from the same stalk, also i only checked
      the fuses by eye. Will give the electrical cleaner a whirl first then
      borrow digital volt meter if required.
      Many thanks for taking the
      time to reply.
      Will post outcome when resolved..
      gary

      gary vanner
      Epping, UK - Tue 01st February 2011 12:40pm (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Re : nissan terrano 3.0
      Hi again John,
      Checked all fuses using a 12 volt meter and all ok
      with them. Also have noticed that washer jets not working to front
      windscreen and back screen although headlight jets are working fine.
      Obviously off differnt motors.Connected battery to the motor which
      works the front and rear jets and it worked.
      Taken the wiper
      stalk off and sprayed with electrical contact spray but no luck. Just
      to clarify i now have no front intermitent wiper, no back wiper, no
      washer jets to front windscreen or back. All off the same stalk. I
      had a look in the handbook and it says never use jet wash whilst
      bottle is empty, this is probably what i done..Get the feeling that
      maybe a new wiper stalk is needed but any advice would be greatly
      appreciated..
      many thanks
      Gary

      gary vanner
      Epping, UK - Wed 02nd February 2011 01:38pm (GMT)

      • Subject : Re : Re : Re : nissan terrano 3.0
        Hi again John,
        Checked all fuses using a 12 volt meter and all ok
        with them. Also have noticed that washer jets not working to front
        windscreen and back screen although headlight jets are working fine.
        Obviously off differnt motors.Connected battery to the motor which
        works the front and rear jets and it worked.
        Taken the wiper
        stalk off and sprayed with electrical contact spray but no luck. Just
        to clarify i now have no front intermitent wiper, no back wiper, no
        washer jets to front windscreen or back. All off the same stalk. I
        had a look in the handbook and it says never use jet wash whilst
        bottle is empty, this is probably what i done..Get the feeling that
        maybe a new wiper stalk is needed but any advice would be greatly
        appreciated..
        many thanks
        Gary

        gary vanner
        Epping, Essex, UK - Wed 02nd February 2011 01:51pm (GMT)

        • Subject : Re : Re : Re : Re : nissan terrano 3.0
          Gary, looks like it.
          I don't think you can blame yourself for
          destroying anything by operating it for a SHORT time without water.

          What can it possibly do; the water provides resistance to the
          impeller spinning;what would it wear out; the impellers are nylon?


          Go secondhand or take brave pills when ringing Nissan main
          dealer for quote.

          Before panicking, follow wiring from switch
          to any connectors that may be in the line near the steering column or
          feeding into the loom from the switch, make sure they are secure, or
          spray them with electrical cleaner and refit.

          If you have
          that voltmeter, see if there is electrical connection between input
          and output when you rotate the switch (use ohmmeter function or small
          battery and jumper wires/light etc.)

          Input with no
          output=kaput

          good luck

          John
          Christchurch, NZ - Fri 04th February 2011 03:08am (GMT)

          • Subject : Re : Re : Re : Re : Re : nissan terrano 3.0
            Hi John,
            Took your advice in your last reply and sprayed
            electrical cleaner to connectors near the steering column and guess
            what? I now have wipers washers all working fine..
            Thankyou so
            much for taking the time to reply and your splendid advice, you have
            saved me a fortune at a garage.
            Thanks again John
            All the
            best
            Gary

            gary vanner
            Essex, UK - Wed 09th February 2011 09:07am (GMT)

 
Subject : Keys
Umm! I have a problem! I have managed to lock my keys in my 95
Mistral, spare key as well. Difficult I know but I have been just
dumb enough to do it. Does anyone have a relatively low cost
solution?

Grahame Cattermole
Dunedin, NZ - Sun 30th January 2011 01:19am (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : Keys
    Call the Automobile Association, if you are not a member you will have
    to become one, but they know how to break into the vehicle without
    causing damage; it's worth it just to see how quickly!
    If it makes
    you feel any better, I have done the same with my keys in the not to
    distant past!

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Sun 30th January 2011 09:58am (GMT)

  • Subject : Re : Keys
    I was able to read the code stamped on the key and get a new one cut.
    There is now 2 keys in two different locations in the house. This
    will not happen again. Also the security company has me on their
    database with the key code.

    Grahame Cattermole
    Dunedin, NZ - Mon 31st January 2011 04:43am (GMT)

 
Subject : Terrano 2.4 petrol
My clutch pedal has gone totallt soft. I presume it's a totally new
clutch job unless anyone has any ideas. Does anyone know the cheapest
place to buy the bits in the Uk or Spain

Chris Betteley
South East / and Spain!!!, UK, UK - Sat 29th January 2011 01:37pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : Terrano 2.4 petrol
    Hi had same problem with mine turned out to be clutch master cylinder
    rubbers gone bought new one fitted and bled system all sorted,hope
    this helps.

    vwkarman
    brighton, east sussex, UK - Sat 29th January 2011 07:37pm (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Re : Terrano 2.4 petrol
      If not the master cylinder, then look at the slave cylinder that
      operates the clutch fork...being in the crap under the vehicle usually
      means a rusted bore which wears out the rubber seals, allows air
      in..feels soft because it compresses.
      Replace slave or if you
      intend to keep the Terrano for many more years, get the cylinder
      overbored and fitted with a stainless steel liner sleeve, which cannot
      rust no matter how much off roading, salt and crap hits
      it.

      Good luck.

      John
      Christchurch, NZ - Fri 11th February 2011 08:46am (GMT)

 
Subject : mr
Ihave a nissan regulus with qd32 eng.eng check light flicks after 5
min of start and eng goes off at idle.if i continue rav than eng
remains on with light flicking and than light goes off and sometimes
comes back on while driving

ron
nadi, fiji - Sat 29th January 2011 08:53am (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : mr
    There should be a trouble code stored on the ECU. Quickest way to
    identify the problem is to have this code read by a Nissan dealer, or
    someone with a scan tool.
    Then you can fix the real problem and
    not try replacing parts until you stumble on the solution by chance,
    and at great expense.
    Good luck.

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Sun 30th January 2011 10:03am (GMT)

 
Subject : Mistral braking noise
I have had my Mistral 98 now for 3 months and there is a funny
crunching noise, when I brake really hard. Without much thinking I got
a set of brake pads, but when I took the wheel off, I discovered that
there is at least 8mm left on the pads. What could it be then? When I
come to think of it the noise seems to appear when the vehicle sort of
lurches to a final stop. Could it be something that needs greasing?

Rumen
Auckland, New Zealand - Mon 24th January 2011 08:44am (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : Mistral braking noise
    Have a look back, way long ago, and see the thread on cleaning metal
    swarf from the ABS sensors at he wheels. This swarf gave a false
    reading and initiated the ABS system at low speed causing a groaning
    sound.
    I'm sure new pads will come in handy in the future!

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Mon 24th January 2011 06:29pm (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Re : Mistral braking noise
      Thanks John - you seem like very knowledgeable person. Your advice is
      much appreciated. I will check the sensors and the pads will soon be
      handy with the mileage I am clocking.
      Thanks again!

      Rumen
      Auckland, New Zealand - Wed 26th January 2011 08:06am (GMT)

 
Subject : 2.7td Terrano Wont Start
HELP I have bought Nissan Terrano II 2.7td p reg 161,000 on the clock
,one morning i went out the engine wouldnt start though it tried to
when i charged the battery it started and happy driving I got the
battery replaced more happy driving next morning same problem but now
having white smoke coming out the back and when i try to start it
airbag light flashes ,im at my wittsend

Kev Finlayson
Edinburgh, Midlothian, UK - Sun 23rd January 2011 07:08pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : 2.7td Terrano Wont Start
    The new battery, how many Cold Cranking Amps is it rated at?
    Did
    you get the biggest you could fit into the available space?
    Still
    cold up your way..batteries don't like cold, and produce less than
    their rated output until they warm up.
    Did you clean the battery
    clamps before you put the new battery in?
    Did you check the
    alternator output..many times the battery goes flat because the
    alternator is not working properly and so can't recharge the battery.

    May explain why you were able to start using the old battery
    after you had charged it??? Hope you didn't give the old battery
    away...
    Good luck, see a good electrician not a battery seller
    first...

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Mon 24th January 2011 03:59am (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Re : 2.7td Terrano Wont Start
      Hi John

      Thanks for the advice the battery had dead cells in
      it ,I left it to a garage that i have been going to with all my motors
      .it is still cold in scotland,though the new battery is still fully
      charged I managed to get it started this morning but now my airbag
      light flashes constantly .
      The battery is the one to fit the
      4x4,there was no drain on the old battery so i think that ruled out
      the alternator.
      I think my next port of call will be an auto
      electrician .
      Thanks again for the advice

      Kev Finlayuson
      Edinburgh, Midlothian, UK - Mon 24th January 2011 01:39pm (GMT)

      • Subject : Re : Re : Re : 2.7td Terrano Wont Start
        Could be one or more glow plugs not working, especially if no problem
        with subsequent warm starts?
        ABS light definitely needs
        investigation.
        Good luck with your visit to the auto sparky.

        John
        Christchurch, NZ - Mon 24th January 2011 06:33pm (GMT)

        • Subject : Re : Re : Re : Re : 2.7td Terrano Wont Start
          Hi John

          Thanks for the help it turned out that my old battery
          had died a death and the problem was(forgive me if this is wrong)with
          the wiring between the relay and glow plugs they were extensivley
          corroded ,wiring has been replaced at starts no problem.MOT is due in
          March fingers crossed it is a cheap one

          Kev Finlayson
          Edinburgh, UK - Tue 08th February 2011 03:52pm (GMT)

          • Subject : Re : Re : Re : Re : Re : 2.7td Terrano Wont Start
            Good to hear that another Nissan was kept on the road by a dedicated
            owner!
            You guys really get hammered by the harsh winters, salt
            etc.
            Here in NZ we can run these 2.7TD engined Nissans, including
            the vans, for hundreds of thousands of kilometres and they don't
            usually corrode anywhere, especially not the wiring.
            See previous
            where an owner was at 675,000k and the auto went west. To replace that
            here with a second hand one with say 200k on it might be $1000NZ but
            to overhaul it to new condition would be $3000NZ
            The engine was
            still fine!
            Oil changes/filter changes on time, plus a new
            thermostat and and pressure cap are the answer.

            John
            Christchurch, NZ - Fri 11th February 2011 08:56am (GMT)

 
Subject : Poor interior lighting
Hey can anyone tell me is the drivers electric window switch supposed
to be illuminated please?(as the front interior rooflight...broke into
pieces when i went to open it and change the bulb!)
Also my
speedo light is dim too...i have a button to fold my mirrors in,i even
seem to have discovered 2 chokes on this car!...so suppose i was
asking too much to want a dimming dial for my odometer too maybe?

Also i have a small round black switch beside the pull out choke,if
i flick it a red light on the switch itself lights up,but even the
seller had no idea of it's purpose and says maybe from something thats
been removed.
Thanks again to all for any help as i have no
books at all with this car and even the sun visor info on 4wd is all
in japanese.
P.s This isn't our everday car,it's for severe
weather out here and for the dogs going out in...so they will be
greatfull too!

Brian
Perth, Tayside, UK - Thu 20th January 2011 06:44am (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : Poor interior lighting
    Sounds like you need to find a parts place for various bits and
    pieces.
    The diesel has no choke, that pull-out marked like a choke
    is an idle-speed increase. Pull it far enough out and you can idle at
    3,000rpm. It used to be useful on pick up or flat deck farm trucks.
    When you were by yourself you could pull and twist lock this to give a
    fast walking speed, flip yourself out of the cab and onto the deck
    with the truck moving, and feed out hay, stopping just before you hit
    the fence on the other side of the paddock..theoretically.

    Falling under the wheels of the moving truck killed or injured
    quite a few old and young farmers trying to stop before the
    fence.
    In NZ JPNZ International is a publishing house (email:
    manuals@jpnz.co.nz
    that has republished many owner
    manuals
    in English as she is spoke in this part of the
    world.
    If you are serious about knowing your vehicle, they may be
    able to help.


    UK - Fri 21st January 2011 07:43am (GMT)

 
Subject : 1994 2.7td mistral import (auto)
Hi,
I wonder if anyone can help me out?I have just bought a
Mistral recently.I didn't realise it was an auto box until i went to
view the car,would have walked away maybe,(as never driven an auto and
wouldn't know at all how mechanically good...or bad engine etc
was/is)but didn't,tried it out,took the chance and bought it and must
admit it's growing on me everyday so far.
However first problem
is i just noticed it has a locking wheel nut on every wheel and
surprise surprise...can't find the nut key,or brace,anyone?(have found
extension handle under rear seat and jack in compartment near rear
lights).
My second problem or niggle is i did get 2 keys and 2
wee black things you pop in to stop the red light flashing...but the
second one doesn't work?..i even opened it to replace the battery but
only has a chip...so can i re-program this one so my wife can have one
too?
Is it best to leave overdrive on or off,or when is best to
use it?(Mechanic at garage says i can just leave it on and doesn't
really matter,but i'm a bit sceptical)?.
Thanks

Brian
Perth, Tayside, UK - Thu 20th January 2011 06:26am (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : 1994 2.7td mistral import (auto)
    Talk to the previous owner about the locking nuts. If you can't get
    the nut key, you will have to remove the locking nuts, and replace
    them with locking nuts you do have a key for!
    I take it that you
    want to keep those alloy wheels?
    Talk to the previous owner about
    the key fobs as well.
    See if the second fob ever worked.

    Read previous recent enquiries on this site about reprogramming
    key fobs, if all else fails go to a Nissan agent.
    Overdrive can in
    normal circumstances be left in. It comes in handy when going down a
    long hill section; you click it "out" and the vehicle can only reach
    3rd gear, giving deceleration without touching the brakes. Ditto going
    uphill;stops auto "hunting" for a higher gear.
    The steeper the
    hill section, the further down the box you should manually shift the
    trans, i.e. 2nd, and when speed falls low enough, 1st. This applies
    especially for low ratio work.
    You need to look through this site
    for info re using the gearboxes, hubs etc.
    Happy reading!

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Fri 21st January 2011 07:32am (GMT)

 
Subject : Leaking fuel pump
I have a 1997 Intercooled Turbo Mistral Which we have owned for 8
years she has been a great wagon. However the fuel pump has recently
started to leak rather badly. I have had quotes from several sources
to fix that range from $1200 to $3000. Is there a kit you can get and
fit or am I up for a replacement. The Car has done 270,000 KM

Paul Nield
Auckland, New Zealand - Sat 15th January 2011 11:50pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : Leaking fuel pump
    There are extremely fine tolerances within a diesel injection
    pump.
    Any dirt will make the problem worse. You appear to have had
    eight maintenance free years; now I suggest you give the vehicle to
    the experts. Ask them to overhaul the injectors at the same
    time,replace the fuel filter and tune it before they give it back to
    you.They will tell you if they can overhaul the pump or if it will
    need replacement after they have opened it up and checked it.
    When
    you think of all the spark plugs. rotors, distributor caps, fuel
    injection filters and tune ups etc you would have paid for if you had
    a petrol engine, you will still be better off after this.

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Sun 16th January 2011 12:39am (GMT)

  • Subject : Re : Leaking fuel pump
    I usually agree with John completely but I would like to offer my own
    experience with this problem which occurred at about the same Km's. I
    was advised by a diesel mechanic that it was always the top seal that
    leaked on these pumps and that it could be accessed easily by removing
    the exhaust manifold. It cost me $25(I think) for a new top seal and
    an exhaust manifold gasket. My friendly mechanic completed the job in
    6 hours. He said he could have done it quicker but wished to be
    absolutely sure that everything was "just so". Note... There is a
    risk that after having done this another part of the injector pump
    needs some work but that has not been my experience. Having hovered
    around while my mechanic worked let me assure you that this is not a
    job for the faint hearted nor is it a job for the "home" mechanic.
    Good luck

    Grahame
    Dunedin, NZ - Sun 16th January 2011 07:43am (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Re : Leaking fuel pump
      Grahame's reply is what this forum is all about..knowledge and
      experience shared with others for the benefit of all.
      Paul, now
      you know where to start.
      Do you have a "friendly" mechanic who
      will let you hang around to justify to yourself that you could not do
      this at home :) ?
      All the best...

      John
      Christchurch, NZ - Sun 16th January 2011 09:05am (GMT)

 
Subject : terrano rear brakes
hi all,i have a terrano 2.7td 1998,in the next couple of days im going
to change the rear brake shoes,just wandering does anyone have any
advice on removing the hubs please.
many thanks,martyn

martyn roberts
- mid wales, UK - Thu 06th January 2011 12:44pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : terrano rear brakes
    Read this and copy to your hard drive the entire manual/chapters from
    the Table of
    Contents

    http://bebrs.pie-dabas.net/Webs/Terrano/R20/br.pdf

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Thu 06th January 2011 11:10pm (GMT)

 
Subject : Mistral manual hubs greasing
Recently I bought a 98 Mistral. Borrowed my mates boat and went to
launch from the beach. Got stuck on the way out with the trailer and
discovered that only the rear wheels are turning. Somehow managed to
get out and following info on this forum found out that the auto
freewheeling hubs have failed. I opened one and found that it had
pieces sheared off. Got two new manual AVM hubs and installed them
following the instruction. However, after I had finished it struck me
that it didn't say anything about grease. Was I supposed to pack them
with grease? Can anyone help please?
Thanks!

Rumen
Auckland, New Zealand, New Zealand - Wed 05th January 2011 05:47am (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : Mistral manual hubs greasing
    Al;l the moving bits inside those hubs should have a layer of grease
    on them. In fact, when you dive back in there again to rectify
    things, go a step further and have a look at the wheel bearings, and
    clean and repack them,
    too.
    http://bebrs.pie-dabas.net/Webs/Terrano/R20/fa.pdf
    You
    can't go wrong!

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Wed 05th January 2011 12:54pm (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Re : Mistral manual hubs greasing
      Thanks John,
      When greasing the bearing do I need to remove the
      nut and take the whole thing apart, or should I just remove the lock
      washer and pack some grease behind it. I don't have the necessary
      tools to get the torque and play of the bearing right again.

      Rumen
      Auckland, New Zealand - Wed 05th January 2011 06:50pm (GMT)

      • Subject : Re : Re : Re : Mistral manual hubs greasing
        "The correct tools" yeah, who does have all those gadgets? Have you
        seen them in your local mechanic's tool box?
        O.k. better leave
        well enough alone, if you didn't find rust and crud in the housing
        when you replaced the auto hubs, then probably the wheel bearings will
        still be OK for grease.
        Do not "just pack some more in behind
        there" That doesn't work, and can do more harm than good.
        Have a
        look on the internet for tutorials on repacking bearings etc.
        If
        you can replace the hubs, you can certainly do the wheel
        bearings!

        John
        Christchurch, NZ - Wed 05th January 2011 09:12pm (GMT)

 
Subject : nissan mistral turbo advice
so we are looking at nissan mistral ..the guy has had it 7 years from
import..he says it doesnt have a turbo and has never had one..BUT the
vin plate numbers say TD27B which im told is manufactured as a
turbo...is it possible for him to have it and nbot realise what do you
think?it came into the country on 59000 ks he has had it since then

trudi
- nz - Sat 01st January 2011 06:27am (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : nissan mistral turbo advice
    It wouldn't surprise me that he doesn't know what he has.
    Look
    under the bonnet yourself to confirm what is actually
    there.
    Someone could have slipped a normally aspirated engine in
    as a replacement at some time????
    Take it for a drive, see how it
    performs.

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Sat 01st January 2011 02:08pm (GMT)

 
Subject : nissan mistral
is there much difference between 2.7 and a2.7 turbo diesel...hubby is
wondering if it will be a too gutless without the turbo??

trudi
- nz - Fri 31st December 2010 09:27pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : nissan mistral
    Neither vehicle are sports cars in their performance.
    Friends had
    a normally aspirated (non turbo) for years and towed a 6.5m boat all
    over the place at a comfortable 80kmh.
    They then updated to a
    Mistral 3 door, turbo intercooled; now tow a heavier 7 metre inboard
    and are happy with the Mistral's perfomance.
    The cost was
    considerably more, fuel consumption about the same.
    Get hubby to
    go for as drive in them before making a choice.
    As always, it's
    the driver who has to make the choice.

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Sat 01st January 2011 12:32am (GMT)

 
Subject : Nissan Navara SD23 idle speed
I have a 1989 Datsun (Nissan but badged Datsun ex Japan) Navara SD23
ute. Lately the idel speed has started to vary and many times the
engine just stops completely. I have adjusted the throttle cable and
use the fast idle knob on the dashboard to help but it keeps on dying
when left at idle. Any ideas? Thanks!

Graeme Taylor
Upper Hutt, NZ - Wed 29th December 2010 09:06pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : Nissan Navara SD23 idle speed
    I would suspect the Exhaust Gas Recirculation valve (if the engine
    has one, and it should). Have a look on the web they are relatively
    simple to remove, clean and replace with good success.

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Thu 30th December 2010 04:17am (GMT)

 
Subject : Help
I have a Manual Nissan 2002 ZD30 Diesel 4x4 and cant get it
started.When I turn the key its winds over but wont start. At the
moment I'm in a flood area but so far the car has not been affected by
water. CAN ANYONE HELP ME?

alvin Capper
Mundubbera, queensland, Australia - Wed 29th December 2010 10:51am (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : Help
    Try to tow-start it.
    If it starts when you tow it, then there is
    something wrong with the starting system.
    If you get it started,
    let it fast idle for 30 minutes to put some juice back in the
    battery, stop it and try restarting.
    If it starts when warmed up,
    the problem is in the glow plugs/ battery condition?

    Good
    luck

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Wed 29th December 2010 07:55pm (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Re : Help
      Thanks 4 your reply Back to the drawing board as your suggestion did
      not work. Looking forward 2 more ideas.

      alvin Capper
      Mundubbera, queensland, Australia - Wed 29th December 2010 11:26pm (GMT)

      • Subject : Re : Re : Re : Help
        back to the drawing board your susgestions did not work any more for
        me to try

        alvin Capper
        Mundubbera, qld, Australia - Thu 30th December 2010 02:38am (GMT)

        • Subject : Re : Re : Re : Re : Help
          OK, it's going to be one of those problems. A diesel needs fuel and
          air.
          Check fuel, throw in another 20 litres or until the tank is
          full. Now you know you have fuel.Take off the fuel filter. Pump the
          hand pump, does fuel flow? Now you know it's getting to the filter. Is
          the filter old, replace filter. undo union of fuel pump after it
          leaves filter. Pump hand pump, does fuel flow, now you know it's
          getting through the filter. Do up union, trace fuel line to banjo bolt
          at entry to pump. Undo banjo bolt, pump hand pump on fuel filter, does
          fuel flow? now it's at the pump.
          Check if there is a small gauze
          filter under the banjo bolt, remove/clean and replace.
          Pump a
          litre or so through so that there are no bubbles etc getting to the
          pump.
          Check air filter is not blocked or collapsed. Take off air
          hose and check it is clear.
          Electrical..can you hear the glow plug
          relay click in when you switch on the ignition? If you have a
          voltmeter, check that the glow plug bus bar is receiving
          voltage.
          Give the engine another try. After this, it's time to see
          a machanic.

          John
          Christchurch, NZ - Thu 30th December 2010 04:14am (GMT)

          • Subject : Re : Re : Re : Re : Re : Help
            Alvin, how did it all work out? Hope you and yours survived the
            floods.

            John
            Christchurch, NZ - Sun 16th January 2011 09:16am (GMT)

 
Subject : Lurching Terrano
Hi, my 1999 Terrano II 2.7tdi Auto has an annoying lurching at 55 to
65mph. Its worse when under heavy load, like towing a trailer, but
dissapears when you back off the throttle. The engine seems to be
running fine, it feels like something oscillating in the driveline,
perhaps a couple of times a second, so I guess it cannot be the
propshaft etc as this spins much faster? I tried levering the rear
engine mount, under the transfer box & there was a little more
movement than I expected, could that possibly be the cause? Thanks for
any help & Merry Christmas all, Mark

Mark Jones
Shrewsbury, Shropshire, UK - Mon 27th December 2010 05:31pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : Lurching Terrano
    Replace the rear axle control arm bushes as quickly as possible, with
    polyurethane bushes. Also do the panhard rod.
    See the article here
    for further
    details.

    http://nissannut.com/projects/Poly_bushings/
    r>If you have a good enough 20 ton hydraulic press and operator there
    is no need to saw through/drill the rubber to press out the old worn
    rubber bushes.
    But be careful, with that much force if something
    slips it can travel a long way.

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Tue 28th December 2010 07:28am (GMT)

  • Subject : Re : Lurching Terrano
    See here also, and how many suffer from this
    problem....

    http://www.topix.com/forum/autos/T5LSTPR50NPCO9CT
    L/p16

    Start ringing around for poly bushes, names like
    Nolathane etc spring to mind in this part of the world.

    See
    also this article for your front
    end

    http://npora.ipbhost.com/index.php?showtopic=28544
    <
    br>Makes a world of difference to the handling. Again, use
    polyurethane bushes.

    Drive safely for the New Year!

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Tue 28th December 2010 07:41am (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Re : Lurching Terrano
      Many thanks for the info John. I will get it over a pit in the next
      few days & check those arms out.

      Mark
      Shrewsbury, Shropshire, UK - Tue 28th December 2010 05:41pm (GMT)

 
Subject : Nissan Mistral - Window Wipers - HELP
Hi Guys,

I've got a 96 Nissan Mistral and it's been good so
far, but it has a real annoying problem. The intermitent setting on
the wipers does not work and on the higher speeds when you turn the
wipers off they don't go back to the start position. Very rarely it
randomly works, but then it will go back to it's annoying ways.


Does anyone know of a fix for this?


Ian Straka
North Shore, Auckland, NZ - Thu 23rd December 2010 07:41pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : Nissan Mistral - Window Wipers - HELP
    Try cleaning the connectors to the wiper motor with a good squirt of
    electrical contact cleaner.
    After that you have two choices;
    disassemble and clean the contacts in the wiper motor, or substitute
    another wiper motor and see if this cures the problem. It is not a
    common problem, so you may have a dud wiper motor.
    Merry
    Christmas.

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Fri 24th December 2010 06:32pm (GMT)

 
Subject : nissan terrano 2.7td
Can anyone tell me why my indicators, my dash lights, my tail lights
and fog lights are not working on my nissan.I have tried all fuses and
they are fine so dont know what else to check. Many Thanks

andrew
londonderry, londonderry, UK - Wed 22nd December 2010 07:13pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : nissan terrano 2.7td
    If they all operate of the same stalk on the column, then it may pay
    to squirt some electrical contact cleaner at the base of the switch
    where the contacts are, to clean them.
    Otherwise, a new
    switch?
    Re check the fuses. Buy yourself a cheap Digital Volt
    Meter. Select "20V" reading. Place black probe on bare metal body part
    and lock in place with lock grips. Probe with red probe both top and
    bottom of all fuses in fuse box.There is a tiny bit of the metal bare
    at the top and bottom when the fuses are in-situ. You should have 12v
    top and bottom. No 12v, fuse may be bad. Double check by turning
    ignition to "on" and test again.
    Hope you have good Christmas.

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Wed 22nd December 2010 11:45pm (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Re : nissan terrano 2.7td
      See later post re contact cleaner spray on plugs in electrical lines
      leading from these switches.

      John
      Christchurch, NZ - Fri 11th February 2011 08:48am (GMT)

 
Subject : 1991 Nissan Terrano 3L V6
Hi all, I have just bought a Terrano (1991 V6 Manual) and I seem to be
having issues under acceleration in 1st and sometimes 2nd. only under
load ( from a stop, pulling out of a round about etc)
she seems to
'kick' or 'jerk' as if I was stamping on and off the gas. But if I
really feather out the clutch, no issue. But no amount of feathering
will fix this problem on a hill start/4wding.
Have had a few
suggestions, being the plugs(replaced), the fuel filter (replaced) and
the Gear box. But it seems to just cut out, not like the gearbox was
busted. So Im inclined to think it would be the leads or dizzy. maby
the MAFS? Any help, or further suggestions too the issue would be
GREAT. Also, the rear window wiper keeps blowing a fuse? and idea why?
the interior lights (when door open etc) seem to be in reverse aswell?
JOY JOY.
Other than these issues, loving my new Terrano on 31 x
10.5s SHES A BLACK BEAST!

Brady
Auckland, New Zealand - Wed 22nd December 2010 06:52am (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : 1991 Nissan Terrano 3L V6
    Have a look at the US Pathfinder web pages. They have a lot of issues
    and solutions on their pages.
    Does your check engine light or any
    of the dash lights flash "codes" e.g.Long,long, short, short, short,
    etc flasdhes when you turn on the key to ignition without starting the
    vehicle? Find an automotive tuner that can scan the ECU it can save
    lots of "parts replacement" and time.
    Good luck.

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Wed 22nd December 2010 07:48am (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Re : 1991 Nissan Terrano 3L V6
      Hi there John, Have been searching for days! This thread has been the
      easiest to use and provided more knowledge than most of the sites I
      can Find to be honest. BUT, I will keep looking.
      In regards to
      check lights, Nope, nothing, not even a glimpse, or a beep. runs like
      a dream aside from her little hiccup. Tried Dropping the clutch on the
      grass yesterday, and she just stalls(Even my four banger goes up this
      hill without flinching) its like a sensor isn't reading or something.
      and its not getting spark for a second. are there any wires off the
      dizzy or fuses that might cause this, iv checked best I can. And like
      I said you can be rolling along in 1st an give a little gas and it j u
      s t LuRcHes like I was going, gasBREAKgasBREAkgasBRAKE with the
      pedals. One thing that might effect it, The belt off the air con has
      been removed, and also the air-con unit unplugged from the harness.
      tried plugging it back in, didn't make a difference. Cheers For your
      Help John, another quick reply would be great and maby I can Fix
      before my roadie To Gisborne on Monday! CHEERS

      Brady
      Auckland, New Zealand - Thu 23rd December 2010 08:25pm (GMT)

      • Subject : Re : Nissan Mistral Model 1998
        Dear all,
        My Nissan Mistral seems to be locked up. My dashboard is
        not lighting up, the wipers,indicator lights and the hooter can't
        work. Adjusting the side mirrors can't be done also. Can you please
        help me. The engine starts well and I can drive. Could someone have
        pressed a wrong button in there that I can't find? The mechanic has
        failed to locate the problem.
        Thank you

        Maria Nakachwa
        Kampala, Uganda - Mon 05th December 2011 07:53am (GMT)

  • Subject : Re : 1991 Nissan Terrano 3L V6
    This is the best I can do outside a workshop
    manual

    http://bebrs.pie-dabas.net/Webs/Terrano/R20/fwd.pdf

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Wed 22nd December 2010 07:52am (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Re : 1991 Nissan Terrano 3L V6
      Nissan V6 Pathfinders in the USA have their own website with tech
      details
      etc.

      http://npora.ipbhost.com/index.php?showforum=28&prune_da
      y=100&sort_by=Z-A&sort_key=last_post&topicfilter=all&st=40

      Wo
      rth reading the whole site...


      UK - Tue 28th December 2010 07:44am (GMT)

 
Subject : nissan terrano
can someone please tell me where i can locate the fuse box for the
tail lights thanks

john anderson
edinburgh, midlothian, UK - Sun 19th December 2010 05:37pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : nissan terrano
    There is a fuze box under the dash near the steering wheel. Tomorrow
    I will look up the diagramme I have which tells which fuze is which.
    I was lucky enough to get someone who could translate the Japanese for
    me.

    Grahame
    Dunedin, NZ - Mon 20th December 2010 07:14am (GMT)

  • Subject : Re : nissan terrano
    What year terrano ? If its a r50 model tail light fuse is in the
    engine bay fuse box according to the handbook . let me know and I will
    try to explain which one .

    steve
    ashburton, nz - Mon 20th December 2010 09:57am (GMT)

 
Subject : auto transmission problem
This is from a previous post--regarding the post i have just put on
below this one---------------------------------Subject : Re :
Sensor
Yes, it could be that sensor.
A lot of transmissions
have had their sensor "adjusted" by a resistor placed in the line in
order to make them "lock up" in top earlier i.e. at a lower
transmission temperature.

It could be a faulty sensor,
faulty connection, faulty wiring or a stuffed resistor if one has been
fitted. ----------------
kind regards
darren hall

DarrenHall
hull, yorkshire, UK - Wed 08th December 2010 05:06pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : auto transmission problem
    Darren have a look at this
    site
    bebrs.pie-dabas.net/Webs/Terrano/R20/at.pdf
    First thing
    to look at is the transmission temperature sender, and replace if not
    functioning (and I don't think it is functioning)
    I hope this
    helps.


    UK - Thu 09th December 2010 03:33am (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Re : auto transmission problem
      cheers for that link, i have forwarded it on to the auto transmission
      garage and it has more info then what we had recieved from others.
      THANKS EVER SO MUCH FOR THIS , we shall give it a look over.
      i am
      sure i will be posting more questions on here.

      darren hall
      hull, yorkshire, UK - Tue 14th December 2010 04:35pm (GMT)

 
Subject : heat sensor problem auto gear box
Hey john mate you seem like a knowledgeble man. NISSAN MISTRAL 2.7TD
1997.ONLY 70,000 miles on the clock. I have been having problems with
third to fourth gear during hot and cold weather last year. It was the
cold that stopped it going into fourth last year and this year it was
the warm weather. I have spent hours tracking down info to resolve
this problem and now I am at the final hurdal. I have seen that this
has been discused previous on this forum, other forums, which resulted
in a resistor being added, but I never quite got the final answer I
needed like as to where and what type of resistor. I have just
recieved a ecu pin out diagram from japan and had it translated, I
also have a complete wiring diagram of the vehicle. John mate can you
help me, which wire or line does this resistor go on and what
size/type of resistor does it need. Do you have wire diagram/ecu
diagram with which you can show us on, or if I sent a copy to you
could you show me on it Or do you know some one who can help me. The
vehicle is at an auto tranmission centre, i have had an auto
electrician look at it and all the seals and hubs replaced just to be
sure. but we just dont know where to or what to do or what we have
over looked. My vehicle has been of the road now 4 months and previous
months before that with the same problem. I am desperate for some
help/info. e-mail---- halldarren5@aol.com ----
kind
regards
Darren Hall

darren hall
hull, yorkshire, UK - Wed 08th December 2010 04:56pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : heat sensor problem auto gear box
    Hi Darren,
    looking at the diagram it seems the trans temp sender
    is connected across pins 47 & 42 on the A/T control box. The
    resistance to fit across this to fool the computer into thinking the
    transmission is warm (80 degrees Centigrade)would be 300 ohms (0.3k
    ohms) You could get a resistor from Maplins for a few pence. Something
    close to that value should work fine, it doesnt have to be exact. Let
    me know how you get on as I might fit one too, maybe with a switch
    in-line, as my Terrano doesnt like to lock-up in top in the recent
    cold weather.

    Mark Jones
    Shrewsbury, Shropshire, UK - Mon 27th December 2010 05:45pm (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Re : heat sensor problem auto gear box
      Thanks for your reply, i will forward this info onto the guy who has
      my vehicle, just out of curiosity which diagram did you look at. i
      recieved a diagram which is in the thread above from a kind gentleman
      which we think has slight diffrences to a terrano diagram, this is
      only what i am told. i will let you know how we get on in the new
      year. kind regards darren

      darren hall
      hull, yorkshire, UK - Sun 02nd January 2011 05:18pm (GMT)

      • Subject : Re : Re : Re : heat sensor problem auto gear box
        i have the opposite of your problem at the moment, mines working ok
        in the cold now and not in the warmth, whereas a year or so ago it was
        working in the warmth and not the cold

        darren hall
        hull, yorkshire, UK - Sun 02nd January 2011 05:25pm (GMT)

      • Subject : Re : Re : Re : heat sensor problem auto gear box
        sorry got a litle mixed up in one of my threads, regarding the slight
        diferences to terrano diagram, i meant minstral diagram, i recieved a
        japenese version wiring diagram for a minstral from japan and we
        noticed a few differences to a terrano diagram. but we shall
        investigate so i resolve my gear changing issue. will keep you
        notified

        darren hall
        hull, yorkshire, UK - Sun 02nd January 2011 05:35pm (GMT)

      • Subject : Re : Re : Re : heat sensor problem auto gear box
        Hi mark, just on the off chance, does it matter what the watts are on
        the resistor
        kind regards
        darren

        darren hall
        hull, yorkshire, UK - Mon 03rd January 2011 05:01pm (GMT)

        • Subject : Re : Re : Re : Re : heat sensor problem auto gear box
          Hi Darren, I was following the circuit diagram on page AT-7 from the
          link at the start of this thread. The resistor should be half a watt
          or more. Looking at the gearbox line drawing on the page above the
          circuit diagram I just noticed there is an A/T fluid temperature
          switch shown as well as an A/T fluid temperature sensor. There is no
          sign of this switch on the circuit diagram though!

          Mark
          Shrewsbury, Shropshire, UK - Mon 03rd January 2011 07:07pm (GMT)

          • Subject : Re : Re : Re : Re : Re : heat sensor problem auto gear box
            thanks for your reply, i am going to contact the guy looking at my
            gear box tomorow and explain what you have told me and see what we
            come up with. i hope all this works as i am planning to ship my jeep
            out to ozz this year and i wanna get it sorted. will keep ypu
            informed
            kind regards
            darren

            darren hall
            hull, yorkshire, UK - Tue 04th January 2011 07:44pm (GMT)

            • Subject : Re : Re : Re : Re : Re : Re : heat sensor problem auto gear box
              Hi mate, we tried the resistors but nothing seem to work, we have come
              to the conclusion that we may have a faulty signal from the rev sensor
              going the gear box, but untill i find a engine ecu pin out diagram to
              find out which wire goes from the engine ecu to the gearbox ecu, and
              then bypass it. will keep you informed

              darren hall
              hull, yorkshire, UK - Tue 22nd March 2011 07:22pm (GMT)

 
Subject : idle problems
Hi I have a question and a comment.My 97 nissan teranno 2.7td has
started a very interesting trick of starting ok but will not rev over
idle.Switch off and restart and all ok till next time.I have put a
good earth strap on after reading other posts but no joy. Anyone had
this problem?.. I also have a glow plug light that comes on for 1
second and goes out.Big panic but checked the volts on plugs and all
ok so now just count 10 seconds before starting.Just in case anyone
else has this problem.
John in NZ if you read this post you helped
me with a MAF sensor query which saved me at least $800.BIG
THANKS.
Cheers

Laurie
cheshunt, vic, Australia - Mon 06th December 2010 07:03am (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : idle problems
    Laurie, it was a pleasure both to help and to receive
    feedback...
    Look for flashing lights on the dash when you first
    switch the vehicle's ignition to "on"
    Does the "check engine"
    light come on, then go off when you start the engine?
    Did the idle
    problem occur at the same time as the problem with the glow plug
    relay? May be a connection between the two?
    Have you an
    opportunity to have the computer scanned for fault codes?
    By
    switching the engine off then switching it back on you are resetting
    the computer. Therefore there should be a fault code?
    Good luck,
    they are a good beast with just a couple of foibles that 13 year old
    vehicles inevitably have..and when this foible is ironed out, it will
    be as good as new!

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Mon 06th December 2010 01:31pm (GMT)

 
Subject : nissan terrano
can anyone tell me what the brass nut with wires attatched in the fuel
filter housing does,i cant get a manual for my nissan terrano 11 n reg
2700cc,and the wires snapped while changing fuel filter,since then i
cant start car without using easystart squirted into turbo,the car
then starts and belches blue smoke for 5 mins,once car started it runs
superbly but this prob is doing my head in,especially as i cant get
pro help as they are all busy and i need car for work..i would be
really grateful for any help from people who are (unlike
me)knowledgeable re terranos..thank you

peter moore
romford, esse, UK - Sun 05th December 2010 08:52pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : nissan terrano
    It is the water sensor at the bottom of the fuel filter. It needs to
    be connected as the computer queries it before starting the
    engine.
    As you have observed, it doesn't work at all well if it is
    not connected.
    Reconnect the wires.

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Sun 05th December 2010 11:32pm (GMT)

  • Subject : Re : nissan terrano
    i have looked all over for a manual for my 2.7td terrano and this is
    the best i have found hope it helps
    you
    http://bebrs.pie-dabas.net/Webs/Terrano/R20/fa.pdf

    richard
    derbyshire, UK - Mon 31st January 2011 07:51pm (GMT)

 
Subject : crunching in 4wd


engaged 4wd today . on sharp right turn it sounded like
something had snapped and was banging / crunching. once back on the
straight it was fine

only getting this on full lock. Is this
autohubs going wrong or not lubricated

terrano 2005 se 2.7tdi

mike parks
preston, lancs, UK - Sun 05th December 2010 05:38pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : crunching in 4wd
    Read previous posts on how to engage 4WD.
    "While driving in a
    STRAIGHT LINE... engage 4WD".
    Then you won't risk crunching up the
    auto hubs.
    Straight line while disengaging them as well.

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Sun 05th December 2010 11:35pm (GMT)

  • Subject : Re : crunching in 4wd
    Could it be a CV joint john ?
    steve
    ashburton, nz - Mon 06th December 2010 06:05am (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Re : crunching in 4wd
      I had a "dumb" moment there Steve.
      You are right, CV joint is the
      most likely if it only crunches when the front wheels are locked into
      4WD and the steering is turned full lock.
      I hate it when dumb
      moments happen....

      John
      Christchurch, NZ - Mon 06th December 2010 01:22pm (GMT)

      • Subject : Re : Re : Re : crunching in 4wd
        cheers.

        Yes i only engage 4wd in straight line

        so
        i'll have the garage check out the CV joint then as thats a job i
        can't do.

        will get back to you once fixed

        thanks
        again

        mike parks
        preston, lancs, UK - Mon 06th December 2010 07:03pm (GMT)

 
Subject : nissan mistral
I am thinking of buying a 1996 mistral. Any advice. Is it a good
vehicle. What is the fuel consumption for 2.7 diesel auto? Thanks

steve
oxford nz, canterbury, nz - Thu 02nd December 2010 11:10am (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : nissan mistral
    Recently on these posts that very subject was covered. Happy reading.
    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Fri 03rd December 2010 04:59pm (GMT)

 
Subject : Terrano 2 .4 wheel drive problems.
My Terrano doesn't seem to be working in 4 wheel drive. I selected 4h
today in the snow and set off but as soon as i got to the hill at the
end of our road it wouldn't drive up it, a neighbour said the front
wheels weren't turning just the back ones ?? I selected 4l and still
nothing to the front wheels. I don't have an owners manual so am
unsure if i am doing things right.

helen
shipley, Yorkshire, UK - Tue 30th November 2010 03:09pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : Terrano 2 .4 wheel drive problems.
    Have a look at the front wheel hubs. Does it say "auto hub" or does it
    have a metal device in the middle which says "4 x 2" and "4 x 4" that
    can be twisted to line up the numerals?
    These are manually
    locking hubs; you have to get out and engage them/disengage
    them.
    Otheerwise, if they are auto hubs, they do this themselves.
    But your auto hubs may be lacking lubricant/damaged.
    Read previous
    posts o how to use your 4WD system.

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Tue 30th November 2010 09:19pm (GMT)

 
Subject : nissan terrano 2 slx
hi there , ive got a terrano 2 slx ,problem is when i drive theres a
rattling noise from the front left tyre ,when i put the foot down its
gone ,but when i am driving and ease of on the accelerator there is
rattling coming from the front left hand side ,any ideas what it is ,
bearings, wishbone ,i dont know ,help

james cairns
edinburgh, scotland, UK - Mon 29th November 2010 10:34pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : nissan terrano 2 slx
    Jack the left front of the vehicle until the left front wheel is 20mm
    off the ground. Put a jimmy bar between the bottom of the tyre and a
    hard surface and jiggle the wheel up and down.
    The noise may come
    from the suspension bushes.Then take hold of the tyre top and bottom
    and try to wiggle it in and out. This will show if there is any play
    in the wheel bearings. Then spin the tyre and listen for any grinding
    in the bearings. Then take off the metal tray under the front of the
    vehicle and examine the sway bar bushes, the smal round ones at the
    ends, and the two d shaped ones attaching the bar to the chassis. If
    worn, replace these bushes, a half hour job.
    If the rattling is
    proportionate to the speed of the engine rather than road speed, check
    all the drive belts for wear.
    If you don't know what to look for
    or listen to, try and find a mechanic. If it bothers you, it's time to
    find it and fix it.

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Tue 30th November 2010 09:04am (GMT)

 
Subject : Nissan Mistral
I have owned a nissan mistral for the past 3 years and have replaced
the fuel injector pump brand new am due to change the sway bar link. I
have found that we need to keep using deisel cleaner to lessen the
smoke. It cuts out and often my engines usual characteristic of having
something wrong with it is surges and cuts out I have read the nissan
mistral posts and have found every tip very helpfull thanks for
everyones input

shelz
ROTORUA, New Zealand - Mon 29th November 2010 04:59am (GMT)
 
Subject : Headlight problem
the HID light on my 97 terrano blinks for a minute then goes out, and
it looks very difficult to get the headlight out . Before I go that
far ,is the light likely to be blown ?

Chris
Auckland, NewZealand - Sun 28th November 2010 11:59pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : Headlight problem
    Yes they can blow . They are very expensive . I have not had to do
    ours yet . Looks like a job for an auto electrician I reckon as just
    changing the high beam halogen bulb was a mission with all the light
    height adjuster stuff behind the lamps .

    steve
    ashburton, nz - Mon 29th November 2010 08:53am (GMT)

 
Subject : pulling to left & front tyre wear
wondering if anyone can advise. my terrano is pulling severely to the
left when in 4wd it also does it in 2wd but not as severe. the right
hand front tyre is wearing rappidly on the inside. can anyone advise
what it could be. much appreciated. thanks.

les mason
morpeth, northumberland, UK - Sun 28th November 2010 08:20pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : pulling to left & front tyre wear
    Raise the front wheels off the ground, place vehicle on axle stands.

    Get under vehicle and rotate the front drive shaft from the
    transfer case to the front diff.. Spin it in one direction and if the
    front left wheel spins and the right front doesn't, then the front
    left hub is permanently engaged.
    Spin the shaft the opposite way
    and both front hubs should make a "click" sound, and no longer spin
    when the shaft is rotated in this direction.
    No clicks, front rt
    hub u/s, and left front jammed on?
    Solution: disassemble and
    clean/repair/lubricate, then exercise them once a month.
    Previous
    posts here have reference to manuals available free,gratis and for
    nothing, to download and help with this.
    Otherwise, look for a
    bent steering component.

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Sun 28th November 2010 10:18pm (GMT)

 
Subject : Terrano Immobiliser
Hi,can anyone help. Terrano battery went flat and we took it out to
recharge it. Car didn't start so bought a new battery. Car still
doesn't start. ? car immobiliser kicked in. Doesn't recognise key so
any ideas on how to get key and car to talk to each other again so we
can use the car.

Sarah Kesteven
SHEFFIELD, UK - Thu 25th November 2010 10:53am (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : Terrano Immobiliser
    Subject : maverick 2.4p keyfob
    hi can anyone help me reset my
    keyfob its the one with the red and black buttons and is the
    susspension suposed to be hard thanks
    mike haupt
    york, north
    yorkshire, UK - Mon 25th August 2008 08:23pm (GMT)

    *
    Subject : Re : maverick 2.4p keyfob
    try this, its spec for
    terrano II but should be the same:

    NISSAN Terano II Key
    Remote Control Programming

    The Central Door locking is
    controlled by the Multi-Remote Control system which controls the door
    locking, door super locking and hazard reminder. When the doors are
    locked and unlocked the unit flashes the hazard lights once for lock
    and twice for unlock.

    A maximum of four remote controls
    are allowed to be programmed.

    Ensure all the doors have
    been unlocked, either by using a good transponder key or remote
    control plip key.

    1. Turn the ignition switch from
    Position 0 to ON 6 times within 10 seconds.

    2. Then
    turn ignition switch to OFF position. Leave key in ignition
    switch.

    3. After 2 seconds, the system will enter
    programming mode and will flash the warning lights twice.


    4. Press and HOLD the unlock button on the Plip.

    5.
    While pressing the unlock button, press the lock button 3
    times.

    6. Release the unlock button.

    7.
    The warning lights will flash once to indicate successful
    programming.

    8. Repeat procedure 4 to 7 for up to 4
    plip key�s.

    9. When completed turn ignition ON, and
    the warning lights will flash 2 times.

    10. Remove key,
    and check all plip key�s for operation.

    NOTE : The
    programming mode will stop when either the ignition is switch ON, 4
    plip keys have been programmed or no input signal either from the
    switch or plip keys has been received for 120 seconds.



    Kate
    UK - Tue 20th January 2009 08:12pm (GMT)

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Fri 26th November 2010 08:17am (GMT)

 
Subject : coolant leaking
ive got a 1995 nissan mistral it leaks coolant from underneath {front}
Had new thermostat fitted plus radiator cap and water pump gasket
{thought this was the problem first off} can go a few weeks with out
leaking then will do it for a while emptying tank and some water out
of radiator.then stop temp gauge ok any thoughts

jason
- canterbury, nz - Wed 24th November 2010 07:26am (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : coolant leaking
    Where at the front, driver's side, passenger side, middle?
    It's
    relevant to what could be leaking. On the driver's side is the top
    hose connection to the radiator/engine, in the middle could be the
    thermostat housing, the water pump gasket or the water pump shaft
    itself, and on the passenger side, the bottom hose connection
    radiator/engine.
    Intermittent leaks are puzzling, but I would
    start with putting TWO stainless steel worm-drive clips on each
    connection to the engine and radiator, as these "flex" and would be
    my number one suspect.
    If you use proper coolant, if that sprays
    out anywhere it leaves a stain like dried mud and points to a logical
    leak point.

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Thu 25th November 2010 01:21am (GMT)

  • Subject : Re : coolant leaking
    The thermostat housing attached to the block has two gaskets between
    it and the block.
    These are accessed by removing 4 bolts; two
    are hidden under the housing on the front face of the
    engine.
    Gaskets only available from Nissan, of course. One is
    square in shape!
    While there, have a look at the very small hose
    connecting from the thermostat housing to the turbocharger cooling
    pipe.
    Put two new clips on each end of that after renewing this
    small hose about 50mm long! (Buy the right inside diameter hose at a
    factor's)
    All of this is best done when replacing the water pump,
    anywhere from 100k to 300k kilometres.
    Pattern pumps fit, but get
    the right pump, there are three different models mostly varying in the
    length of the shaft/pulley.
    Take the old one in and insist that
    the new pump is dimensionally checked before you buy it!
    It is a
    do it yourself proposition, take out the radiator and access to all
    the above is a piece of the proverbial.
    The bottom of the fan
    shroud unclips and the top pulls out past the radiator and fan.

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Fri 26th November 2010 08:31am (GMT)

 
Subject : 95 Mistral blowing black smoke on take off
Hi everyone, have a 1995 Nissan Mistral with 169,000k on the clock,
have just had the valve clearance done and when purchased one month
ago it had just had the trans fixed. the problem I have and I do not
know if it is or not, is that when I take off the vehicle is a
sluggish and then all of a sudden takes off with a big black cloud of
smoke from the exhaust. This also happens when I slow down at a give
way sign and accelerate away. It is not to bad on diesel, but hate the
black smoke any ideas.

Also while driving along at around 80
- 100k it changes out of overdrive when I take my foot off the gas and
then when i put my foot down again the overdrive
reengages.

Other than this I love my mistral

Thanks

Karl

karl
Tauranga, BOP, New Zealand - Sun 21st November 2010 03:13am (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : 95 Mistral blowing black smoke on take off
    Sounds like your airflow sensor needs cleaning or replacement. Has
    been covered in previous postings.
    The excess black smoke is
    excessive diesel being injected into the cylinder in comparison to the
    air being turbo- boosted into the cylinder.
    The change-down when
    you lift your foot means the vehicle automatically changes to a lower
    gear in anticipation of you wanting more power; i.e. when you approach
    a bend and lift off the gas slightly it will be ready to accelerate
    after the bend.
    However, if you do it on a straight bit of road,
    it does the same thing, and that's annoying.
    You put your foot
    down slightly, the vehicle accelerates slowly, recognises you aren't
    requiring more power, and it will drop into overdrive again!
    All
    very normal.
    Solution: drive with a steady foot!


    UK - Mon 22nd November 2010 09:04am (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Re : 95 Mistral blowing black smoke on take off
      My vehicle does not have the maf sensor, it is the non intercooled
      model. The smoke is getting worse and someone said it maybe a EGR
      valve, whatever that does.

      If it is this are they easy to
      replace or fix?? cheers

      karl
      tauranga, bop, New Zealand - Thu 25th November 2010 06:07am (GMT)

 
Subject : terrano has no drive
hi yesterday i was driving my terrano when i slowed for a roundabout
changed down a gear then accelerated but i had no drive car seems to
go into gear ok but release the clutch and nothing had a friend jack
it up and rear wheels are in gear but still nothing no jerk forward
starting the car either mechanics round here say different things so
any help would be very welcome thanks in advance sam (its a 1996
terrano 2.7tdi manual)

samantha
essex, essex, UK - Wed 17th November 2010 05:18pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : terrano has no drive
    The mechanical device coupling the engine to the gearbox is the clutch
    plate.
    If you jacked up the rear wheels, put the gearbox "in gear"
    and spun the rear wheels by hand, you would be able to go under the
    vehicle and see the drive shaft rotating.
    You could also probably
    hear the gears in the gearbox rotating, and the effort of turning the
    wheels would lighten if you then disengaged the gear.
    So the gbox
    is OK.
    The only thing left is the clutch which is usually
    "engaged" i.e. providing the link between the engine and the
    gbox.
    Sorry, but it looks like a new clutch pressure plate etc
    will be needed.

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Thu 18th November 2010 04:02am (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Re : terrano has no drive
      hi john thanks for the reply. As the car is in gear when its started
      without the clutch depressed would it not jerk forward? and when i
      depress the clutch it seems like it works as when it broke down i
      freerolled it in gear by depressing the clutch.. been told by a few
      mechanics to scrap the beast as it will be cheaper to buy another than
      fix it but its only done 115thousand and is lovely to drive thanks sam

      samantha
      essex, essex, UK - Thu 18th November 2010 10:06am (GMT)

      • Subject : Re : Re : Re : terrano has no drive
        With the engine off, if you put the vehicle into 1st gear, then start
        the engine, does the vehicle begin to move forward?
        If so, then
        the clutch is providing drive between the engine and the
        gearbox.
        Which gears DO NOT have any effect when you select them
        and then turn on the engine?
        What are the diagnoses provided by
        the other mechanics you have consulted?
        Can you drive the vehicle
        to them, or are they making guesses "sight unseen" because the vehicle
        can't move?

        It seems to all point towards the clutch plate
        centre having "let go". Any unusual noises, banging, clattering from
        the clutch before this happened?
        Was it harder to change gear?

        John
        Christchurch, NZ - Thu 18th November 2010 02:51pm (GMT)

        • Subject : Re : Re : Re : Re : terrano has no drive
          hi when you put the car in gear when engine off then start it no it
          doesnt move at all and its the same on all gears cannot drive it.
          mechanics are saying gearbox,clutch,driveshafts,slave cylinder etc
          just guessing work i think it. seems like the clutch is stuck when
          engine is on but not when its off as when its off put it in gear push
          it and it jutters. no there was no noises banging nothing just changed
          into second and nothing.

          samantha
          essex, essex, UK - Thu 18th November 2010 03:27pm (GMT)

  • Subject : Re : terrano has no drive
    The clutch will need replacement. Not a DIY proposition as gearbox and
    transfer case are one heavy lump which can crush anyone under them.


    - UK - Sat 20th November 2010 03:34am (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Re : terrano has no drive
      hi yes garage have said its the clutch but another garage that wants
      to look at it is adamant its the gearbox so im stuck in a rut dont
      want to spend money on a clutch and its not that.and to top things off
      the garage that has the car at the moment have said it has a bad leak
      from the power steering box i have no idea on prices for this so am
      wondering if its worth repairing or cutting my losses.

      samantha
      essex, essex, UK - Sat 20th November 2010 05:33pm (GMT)

      • Subject : Re : Re : Re : terrano has no drive
        Samantha, do you have a garage or mechanic you can trust? I would
        hate to see you give the work to someone who could "rip you
        off".
        The garage that has the vehicle has not been given the go
        ahead for work to start, so you can always take it away for a "second
        opinion".(and a quote!)
        Do you belong to a motoring organisation
        which will give advice/recommended repairers?
        Anyone in the
        family that can give good advice?


        UK - Sun 21st November 2010 01:17am (GMT)

 
Subject : nissan terrano 4wd
hi i have just got my first 4x4 its a 97 nissan terrano 2.7td and im
having problems with 4wd i dont think its engaging as if i go around a
round about too fast it feels like back end steps out.. also with the
light does it come on in 4h or just 4L and how will i tell the
difference between 2wd and 4wd and is it ok to drive in 4wd during the
winter i no its long and probally been answered before but i cannot
find it any help would be greatly appreciated thanks

jon grothier
colchester, essex, UK - Mon 15th November 2010 12:59pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : nissan terrano 4wd
    You can't bend the laws of physics. If you go into a corner too fast,
    in 4WD or not, the back end will step out, slide, skip, slither or
    move towards the direction it naturally wants to go. Depending how
    good your tyres are, and the surface of the road, combined with your
    speed defines how much you "lose it"
    "Lose it" enough and you will
    die in the resulting loss of control and crash.

    The 4WD light
    should be lit in both 4H and 4L.

    I presume you have the
    rotary dial dash selector which gives you the "Auto"
    option?

    If so, leave "Auto" selected and it will
    automatically engage when necessary.

    Try and source an owners
    manual and read it from cover to cover.
    If all else fails, read
    the instructions!

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Mon 15th November 2010 01:49pm (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Re : nissan terrano 4wd
      hi thanks for the reply the light only comes on in 4L not 4H and as
      for auto option i will have a look and update..
      on the shift stick
      it has 2h 4h push for N and 4L if thats any help many thanks

      jon grothier
      colchester, essex, UK - Mon 15th November 2010 02:49pm (GMT)

      • Subject : Re : Re : Re : nissan terrano 4wd
        hi no there is no auto option that i can find im hoping the 4L
        actually works and will drive it in that if the winter is bad.

        jon grothier
        colchester, essex, UK - Mon 15th November 2010 03:29pm (GMT)

        • Subject : Re : Re : Re : Re : nissan terrano 4wd
          Don't drive with the lever in 4WD either 4H or 4L unless the surface
          you are traveling on allows slip between the front wheels and the
          rear, i.e. mud, snow, ice, gravel.
          Otherwise the drive line will
          "load up" front to rear and ruin your gearbox.
          If you want
          permanent 4WD, buy a Range Rover.
          See previous posts on how to
          select and deselect 4WD, and how to check if your auto front hubs are
          "locking in", and how to release them.
          Good luck, try and get the
          manual!

          John
          Christchurch, NZ - Tue 16th November 2010 12:02am (GMT)

 
Subject : air intake hose
Have just change air cleaner on r50 terrano and noticed split in the
flexi pipe between turbo and air flo sensor . found one on trade me in
the north island for $180 ish . Would you have to buy genuine nissan
part or would there be a cheaper aftermarket one available . Hope it
had not let too much dust into the engine .

cheers steve

steve
ashburton, nz - Sun 14th November 2010 04:26am (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : air intake hose
    got hose from place in ch ch $ 150 including gst and freight . Local
    nissan dealer $ 185 including gst . pays to shop around .

    steve
    ashburton, nz - Mon 15th November 2010 04:22am (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Re : air intake hose
      Was the split in the hose was on the intake side of the turbo? Or was
      it under pressure, in which case no dust could get in?

      John
      Christchurch, NZ - Mon 15th November 2010 01:52pm (GMT)

      • Subject : Re : Re : Re : air intake hose
        Was on the intake side unfortunatly . the flexi pipe that feeds the
        turbo . was only a small split about 15 mm untill I pulled air cleaner
        out and then nearly tore the pipe in half . On friday we followed a
        car in the gravel all the way up to lake camp and was pretty dusty .
        Hope there wasnt to much dust sucked in . Quite common problem on the
        r50 td 27 and qd 32 engine .

        steve
        ashburton, nz - Tue 16th November 2010 04:54am (GMT)

      • Subject : Re : Re : Re : air intake hose
        had same problem what will happen if dust has been going into turbo
        and how do i clean out please help

        joe
        mt maunganui, nz, UK - Mon 07th November 2011 10:18pm (GMT)

 
Subject : Nissan R3MR
Hello, the speedo on my Nissan Terrano R3MR sometimes works then
stops. Can anyone suggest anything??
Thanks,
Nick

Nick Dawson
bristol, avon, UK - Thu 11th November 2010 12:11pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : Nissan R3MR
    Known problem covered previously. Hit the top of the dashboard hard
    the next time it stops working. If it starts working again, or if you
    go over a bump and it starts working again, one of the tracks in the
    printed circuit board of the dashboard is cracked or a component is
    not solidly fixed or soldered any more
    There are exchange dashes
    available in UK try googling

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Thu 11th November 2010 08:57pm (GMT)

  • Subject : Nissan R3MR
    Hi there Have you been given an answer to your question? I'm trying to
    disconnect mine due to it not working correctly

    Ivan
    Tauranga, New Zealand, NZ - Thu 21st March 2013 08:17am (GMT)

 
Subject : overdrive
i have 1994 Nissan Mistral 2.7 td,, automatic can anyone please
explain to me about the gear box ,,it seems to have a four speed
automatic box,, with an overdrive,, is the overdrive the same as fifth
year,, my only experience of overdrive is when you press the button
the revs come down,, but on this one when you press the overdrive
button the light comes on ,,,and the revs to go up,, and it changes
down a gear,, can anyone help thank you

robert hughes
coventry, West Midlands, UK - Mon 08th November 2010 12:12pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : overdrive
    Think you will find that when the light goes on it will say o/d off
    and change down to third . You dont really need to use this much for
    every day driving . You can use the button to help with engine braking
    going down hills and when towing trailers and going up hills or
    passing cars . Just to confuse you some more you probably have a
    switch which says power/hold which changes the way the auto changes
    gear .


    steve
    ashburton, nz - Tue 09th November 2010 06:14am (GMT)

  • Subject : Re : overdrive
    I had a 96 nissan mistral. the best thing i did was get shut of the
    diesel guzzling heavy lump of useless crap.

    christian
    blckburn, uk, UK - Wed 10th November 2010 07:13am (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Re : overdrive
      Hey Christian, I thought you had all the problems sorted?
      John
      Christchurch, NZ - Thu 11th November 2010 08:33am (GMT)

 
Subject : Terrano Running Probs
Hi,
I have a Nissan Terrano 1996 N Reg,That will not Rev above
2000 revs,any Ideas,Thanks.

Glynn Spooner
Sheffield, S/Yorks, UK - Sat 06th November 2010 11:15am (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : Terrano Running Probs
    Please read the previous posts on this site as this subject has been
    covered many times.

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Sun 07th November 2010 08:03am (GMT)

 
Subject : terrano orange engine light
I have terrano 2.7tdi,the orange engine light sometimes comes on the
car loses power,i switch off engine and problem goes away.Last time it
did this it was months ago,any ideas

dave heathcote
biddulph, staffs, UK - Mon 01st November 2010 08:48pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : terrano orange engine light
    Dave, spend some time reading previous posts on this board,and you
    will find the answers.
    They have all been covered before, but
    start with a new fuel filter, check the fuel filter gauze at the fuel
    pump banjo bolt, etc etc.
    If you can manage it, go to a place that
    can read your computer and read the fault code.
    When you switch
    the vehicle off then on again, it resets the computer, until the fault
    reoccurs.
    Good luck, happy reading.

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Wed 03rd November 2010 03:48am (GMT)

 
Subject : transmission
ive got a 92 260 3L petrol nissan patrol. 5th gear is really noisy,
whines and grinds. 4th gear is perfect. the first 3 gears are a bit
noisy. the gear changes are smooth. in 1st at walking speed there is a
faint intermittant grind, cant tell if its a diff or the box. all this
goes on in 2 wd. when i engage 4wd low (or 4wd h) and turn in the hubs
it wont go into 4wd. the near side wants to lock in but wont. ive put
new oil in gear and trans box. ill do diff oil next. any body have an
idea?

mark micklefield
pontefract, west yorks, UK - Sat 30th October 2010 11:37am (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : transmission
    1st,2nd,3rd, and 5th gears are "indirect 1.e there are cogs spinning
    against cogs to develop the gearing. 4th is "straight through" the
    gearbox therefore will always be the quietest.
    5th gear is
    "overdrive" and puts a fair strain on the cogs and bearings,
    especially if you are towing a heavy trailer, or "lugging" at low
    speed, instead of changing down a gear (or two).
    What "won't go"
    when you try putting it into 4wd? The selector for hi/lo or the hub on
    the nearside not "locking in"?
    With the engine off, and the main
    gearbox in first gear, select 4wd high or low, crawl under and twist
    the front drive shaft. It should not turn, if it is locked in.
    If
    that is working, you need to overhaul the locking hub on the nearside,
    and while you're there, do the offside as well.
    You can compare
    them and see what's not working properly.

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Sat 30th October 2010 02:49pm (GMT)

 
Subject : Sensor
I have a mid 90s Nissan Mistral,when I'm driving along especially in
the summer when it is hot ,the transmission changes down a gear I
could be driving at 100km and it does this,is there a heat sensor on
the transmission box that causes this?

Maryanne Steedman
Helensville, NZ - Wed 27th October 2010 07:24pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : Sensor
    Yes, it could be that sensor.
    A lot of transmissions have had
    their sensor "adjusted" by a resistor placed in the line in order to
    make them "lock up" in top earlier i.e. at a lower transmission
    temperature.

    First things first:
    have you checked the
    level of the trans fluid and it's colour?
    It should be bright
    red, not dull and blackish or burnt smelling.

    Have you
    replaced the trans filter and fluids within the last
    50,000km?

    If not, do so and have the trans flushed out
    professionally at the same time.

    While that process is being
    carried out, a good trans shop should check the wear on the trans and
    will check the sensor if you tell them the problem.

    It could
    be a faulty sensor, faulty connection, faulty wiring or a stuffed
    resistor if one has been fitted.

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Thu 28th October 2010 04:16am (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Re : Sensor
      I have had the same problem with mine and now that its cold its ok
      where as last year it did it when it was hot. i have just recieved a
      ecu pin out diagram from japan and had it translated, well most of it.
      john mate can you help me, which wire or line does this resistor go
      on. do you have wire diagram/ecu diagram with which you can show us
      on, or if i sent a copy to you could you show me on it. the vehicle is
      at an auto tranmission centre, i have had an auto electrician look at
      it and all the seals and hubs replaced just to be sure. but we just
      dont know where to or what to do. My vehicle has been of the road now
      4 months and previous months before that with the same problem. i am
      desperate for some help/info. e-mail-- halldarren5@aol.com

      Darren Hall
      hull, yorkeshire, UK - Wed 08th December 2010 04:25pm (GMT)

 
Subject : head gasket
what can be the problem.i have a 3.2D nissan hardbody every morning i
need to throw coolent in. Has never overheated. what could be the
problem??

wesley
bloemfontein, south africa, sa - Mon 25th October 2010 07:54pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : head gasket
    There should be evidence of the coolant leaking if the leak is on the
    outside of the engine.
    Start with the tube leading to the overflow
    container. Any holes, loose clamps? Fill it with coolant.
    Then the
    radiator cap, renewed every 3 years (min), correct pressure
    rating?
    Seals OK? Then the hoses {all of them}
    then the water
    pump.
    If the water pump is leaking you should be able to see by
    the traces of fried on coolant over the front of the engine, and if
    bad enough, on the ground under the vehicle if it is left
    overnight.
    Check radiator for leaks, then go to a radiator shop
    and have them pressure test the whole system.
    Don't delay unless
    you like spending large amounts of money replacing a cooked diesel
    engine.
    Good luck.

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Mon 25th October 2010 08:15pm (GMT)

 
Subject : Nissan Mistral Mid 90's Brake System
Would anyone be able to answer a question for me? I have recently
bought a Nissan Mistral 2.7 diesel automatic. I have noticed that
when I press the brake pedal two or three times in succession there is
an audble sound, could anyone explain why this is happening? As I dont
have a manual for the car I am struggling to find the various faults

Chris Jennings
Akrotiri, Cyprus - Sun 24th October 2010 09:39am (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : Nissan Mistral Mid 90's Brake System
    I presume your Mistral has Antilock Braking?
    Is it a "whirring"
    sound coming from the engine compartment where the ABS pump is
    situated?
    If so, the ABS would be "getting itself together" in
    anticipation of the next time you press the brake pedal.

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Sun 24th October 2010 12:27pm (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Re : Nissan Mistral Mid 90's Brake System
      It is like a warning sound like it would be on an air brake system if
      it was low on air if that is any help?

      Chris Jennings
      Akrotiri, Cyprus - Sun 24th October 2010 01:55pm (GMT)

  • Subject : Re : Nissan Mistral Mid 90's Brake System
    ours was a 94 mistral without abs . that horrible buzzing is caused by
    lack of brake vacume . If you pumped the brakes with out the engine
    going 2 or 3 times with the key on the alarm used to come on . as soon
    as you started engine the vacume in the brake system would build up
    and the alarm would go off .
    Im not sure how the brake vacume
    assists or where the vacume comes from but think there may be some
    thing on the back of the alterator . John please put me right if I am
    miles away with this post .

    cheers steve

    steve
    ashburton, nz, nz - Mon 25th October 2010 12:02am (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Re : Nissan Mistral Mid 90's Brake System
      Steve, you are spot on.
      The vacuum to activate the brake booster
      is created by the vacuum pump at the rear of the alternator.
      You
      may be able to verify this by pumping the brakes with the engine off;
      when the pedal goes hard and no "shushing" sound occurs, keep your
      foot on the brakes and start the engine.
      The buzzer will go off
      and then when enough vacummn has been built up, it will stop.
      If
      you release your foot off the brake, the buzzer will cut off very
      shortly thereafter.
      It's not a fault, it's a safety
      measure.
      The vacuum pump appreciates clean engine oils so be
      meticulous with your oil and filter changes.
      You will see a rubber
      tube leading from under the vacuum pump down to the sump
      area.
      When this gets old, it leaks a little oil which drips and
      blows back over the engine/transmission etc and looks quite
      bad.
      Either tighten the clamps at both ends of the hose, or
      replace the hose with oil resistant hose and new clamps.

      John
      Christchurch, NZ - Mon 25th October 2010 07:38am (GMT)

      • Subject : Re : Re : Re : Nissan Mistral Mid 90's Brake System
        So in chrises case if the buzzer was coming on if the engine was
        running the vacume pump would be stuffed or pos a split in the vacume
        hose do you think ? . Would think the brakes would be very hard to
        press if this was the case .

        steve
        nz - Mon 25th October 2010 08:45am (GMT)

  • Subject : Re : Nissan Mistral Mid 90's Brake System
    One other thing: the vacuum pump is dependant on the engine revs as to
    how hard it works.
    If you idle down hills and gradually apply the
    brakes for a long period of time, then you will run out of
    vacuum.
    If you have the engine assisting the braking by being in a
    lower gear, the revs will be higher, pumping more vacuum.
    You
    should not normally have the buzzer coming on under normal/good
    driving conditions.
    Hope this all helps.

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Mon 25th October 2010 10:02am (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Re : Nissan Mistral Mid 90's Brake System
      Thanks very much for your input guys, I thought it would be some kind
      of safety device but I wanted to be sure, I was thinking of changing
      my pads as they are quite worn, thus me pressing the pedal quite hard.
      John do you know a good website that does discs and pads, and on
      another subject do you know where I could get an aerial and some new
      window switches as my rear window doesn't open and the driver one is
      intermittant. Why did I buy this car again????

      Chris Jennings
      Akrotiri, Cyprus - Mon 25th October 2010 03:25pm (GMT)

      • Subject : Re : Re : Re : Nissan Mistral Mid 90's Brake System
        Chris, it's time to use your contacts in the UK or the internet for
        this search!
        You have tiny niggles with this vehicle, and a little
        love and TLC will see it right again.
        Before damning the switches,
        remove them and spray them with a good electrical contact cleaner.

        That may resurrect the dead one, and restore the intermittent
        one.
        Don't forget to check the fuses with a voltmeter as described
        in an earlier post.
        If you plan on keeping the vehicle, (they are
        worth keeping and can be maintained by a D.I.Y person) get the manual
        or check previous posts for info.
        Switches don't like dusty roads,
        drive with the windows closed and the air con on high and sucking
        fresh air, thereby pressurising the interior and keeping dust out

        John
        Christchurch, NZ - Mon 25th October 2010 08:06pm (GMT)

        • Subject : Re : Re : Re : Re : Nissan Mistral Mid 90's Brake System
          Thanks for your help John, where can I get a manual for this car I
          have searched amazon and there doesn't seem to be a Haynes manual for
          it, can I get them from nissan?

          Chris Jennings
          Akrotiri, Cyprus - Tue 26th October 2010 02:42pm (GMT)

 
Subject :
1994 nissan terrano 2.7 td Automatic gear box is the gear box
computer controlled ???????

robert hughes
coventry, West Midlands, UK - Wed 20th October 2010 06:27pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re :
    Yes, both the engine and the auto have computer controls.
    If you
    have a look at previous posts, you will see references to diagrams of
    the locations of these, and a "trouble-shooting" chart.

    Get
    the right scanner to analyse the reading from these compouters and it
    will give you a clue as to what may be going wrong.

    At a
    minimum, replace the auto trans fluid and the filter in the auto box
    if you personally have not done so already.

    Better still,
    have the box professionally flushed out at the same time.

    An
    expert can analyse the "droppings" in the bottom pan of the auto and
    tell what wear is taking place within it.

    Good luck.

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Thu 21st October 2010 01:30am (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Re :
      thank you very much from robert
      Robert Hughes
      coventry, West Midlands, UK - Thu 21st October 2010 07:16am (GMT)

 
Subject :
1994 nissan terrano 2.7 td Automatic gear box is the gear box
computer controlled ???????

robert hughes
coventry, West Midlands, UK - Wed 20th October 2010 06:26pm (GMT)
 
Subject :
1994 nissan terrano 2.7 td Automatic gear box how does any one know
how it work

robert hughes
coventry, West Midlands, UK - Wed 20th October 2010 11:48am (GMT)
 
Subject : Nissan Terrano 1999 3l diesel wont start
Suddenly didn't want to start one day. Turns over but doesn't
fire.
. Glow plugs replaced
. Fuel filter housing
replaced
. Front crank shaft timing sensor replaced
. New
battery
. Fuel pump re-plumbed
Computer analysis shows no
faults. Will start not a problem if within a 12 hour period, but if
left over 24 hrs will not.
Engine light does not flash or stay on
when motor is cranking.
Glow plugs take 15 secs to glow
properly.

Any help would be greatly
appreciated.





Denis
Whakatane, EBOP, NZ - Wed 20th October 2010 10:53am (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : Nissan Terrano 1999 3l diesel wont start
    Can you connect up a meter to show what the current drain is on the
    battery when the vehicle is locked up and left?
    Do you use the
    immobiliser every time?

    If there is a heavy current drain
    from the battery "at rest" then 12 hours might be OK to start, but 24+
    means too much has been sucked out.

    Try disconnecting the
    positive battery lead and leaving it for 24 hours. Reconnect the lead,
    and if it starts 1st pop you may have part of the answer.

    Oh,
    and brand new batteries can fail immediately (like new spark plugs
    sometimes do).

    Possible clue is glow plugs taking 15 seconds
    to glow?

    I have just replaced the battery, and used one with
    600CCA rating.
    It takes 5 seconds from switching on the key when
    cold (in a garage) until the glow plugs switch off.

    When
    the battery was dying, it took 15 seconds plus....

    Good luck,
    everything else you replaced or repaired would help the longevity of
    the vehicle...

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Thu 21st October 2010 01:21am (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Re : Nissan Terrano 1999 3l diesel wont start
      Thanks John, will give it a try. Can you give me number or text it to
      027 3877439 so I can pick your brains some more if this doesn't work.
      Ta Denis

      Denis
      Whakatane, NZ - Thu 21st October 2010 08:28am (GMT)

      • Subject : Re : Re : Re : Nissan Terrano 1999 3l diesel wont start
        Just a bit further down the line. Have heard that a 99 Terrano had
        similar problems to mine and was found that the starter motor was on
        the way out and this caused an extra loading on the starter cables
        which caused an electrical field around the fuel pump cable and an
        error in the message sent to the pump. Has anyone heard about this?

        Denis
        Opotiki, NZ - Sun 24th October 2010 01:05am (GMT)

  • Subject : Re : Nissan Terrano 1999 3l diesel wont start
    After all the worries it turns out that there was an air leak near the
    fuel pump, once that was located and a new battery fitted all went
    well. Thanks for the replies.

    Denis
    Whakatane, NZ - Mon 01st November 2010 06:20am (GMT)

 
Subject : Nissan terrano II no glow
nissan terrano not starting, no power getting to glow plugs, engine
will turn over, no dashboard indicator light showing that glowplugs
heating? have no workshop manul so have no idea where to start looking
for glowplug heater relay switch all fuses fine. any sugestion?

Dave
trowbridge, wiltshire, UK - Thu 14th October 2010 10:13pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : Nissan terrano II no glow
    If you absolutely HAVE to get the vehicle going, use the red lead of a
    pair of 100amp jumper cables to bridge from the hot "+" terminal of
    the battery to the bus-bar of the glow plugs.
    This will heat the
    glowplugs and allow you to start the engine.

    Disconnect the
    jumper after 15 seconds of heating the glow plugs otherwise you risk
    burning the glow plugs out.

    If you don't feel confident doing
    this it's time to ring around and find a diesel mechanic or auto
    electrician who know what they are doing, and take the vehicle to them
    on a trailer

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Sun 17th October 2010 08:52am (GMT)

 
Subject : 1994 Nissan mistral (terrano 2) 2.7td auto
Can anybody help ,,,,I are very recently bought 1994 Nissan mistral
(terrano 2) 2.7td auto ,, which now seems to have a problem,,
hopefully not serious ,,as I have only had this vehicle for a week,,,
the issue is the auto gearboxes ,, first thing in the morning it seems
to go through the gear box OK.. But after about 20 minutes,, it seems
to lose 4 gear ,,first/ second /third /are still ok,, but number 4
gear,, almost disappears ,, and it takes ever increasing speeds 60,
plus to get 4,, sometimes not at all ,,help help help please... Thank
you from Robert ,,
rphrph999@yahoo.co.uk

robert hughes
coventry, West Midlands, UK - Tue 12th October 2010 12:48pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : 1994 Nissan mistral (terrano 2) 2.7td auto
    Check the level first and then the quality of the trans
    fluid.

    If it has never been changed it will not be a nice
    bright red, and it and the filter in the trans should be changed
    ASAP.

    The trans should be completely flushed of old fluid,
    and that definitely includes the torque converter.

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Tue 12th October 2010 02:44pm (GMT)

 
Subject : Mid 90's Nissan Mistral
Hi Guys,

I am looking at buying a mid 90's Nissan Mistral
with up to 160,000km on the clock. It is not for offroading, just for
regular town use during the week and then towing the boat in the
weekend. Are they a reasonably reliable car and is there anything to
look out for when buying them?

Ian Straka
North Shore, Auckland, NZ - Mon 04th October 2010 10:36am (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : Mid 90's Nissan Mistral
    The Mistral was highly recommended to me as being very reliable
    mechanically and it has proved to be so but, I am very meticulous
    about oil changes and servicing. My mechanic says that regular
    checking of the tappet settings is essential. The only out of the
    ordinary maintenance was replacing the seals on the injector pump.
    This happens because of the changes made to diesel fuel a few years
    ago. I get around 9.5 to 10 km/ltr around town and 12 to 12.5 on the
    open road. I purchased my 1995 model seven years ago at 97K and it
    now has 280k and has cost me only normal maintenance

    Grahame Cattermole
    Dunedin, NZ - Mon 04th October 2010 07:01pm (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Re : Mid 90's Nissan Mistral
      Thanks Grahame, I took a 96 mistral for a drive today with 159km on
      the clock. I really like it and I am almost sold on it but I have a
      few queries. It has a perfect body and the chasis had no sign of any
      rust. It started first pop and drove nicely. The only things that
      worried me was when the truck changed gear from 1st to 2nd gear there
      is a noticeable jolt. Is this normal for these truck (or any deisel
      for that matter)? The other thing that worried me is that there was a
      lot of oil deposits underneath the engine. It didn't look like
      anything was dripping but it looked baked on to the chasis. Is this
      something to worry about? The rear shocks are yellow munroe shock
      absorbers - is this factory or have they been added?

      Cheers
      for your help.

      Ian Straka
      North Shore, Auckland, NZ - Wed 06th October 2010 10:42am (GMT)

      • Subject : Re : Re : Re : Mid 90's Nissan Mistral
        The auto should not "jolt" noticeably changing from 1st to 2nd gear.

        It is usually a sign that the old fluid should be changed, with a
        full flush of the transmission and a new trans filter.
        When you
        buy it, no doubt you will automatically change all the fluids straight
        away throughout the truck, and all the filters, including the auto
        trans?
        The baked-on oil would accumulate over 159k and can always
        be washed off with a high pressure cleaner, but it does a good job
        preserving steel from rust!
        Check the turbo oil return hose to the
        sump, this gets old and tired, and replacing this cleans up most oil
        drips.
        It shouldn't leak from anywhere else.
        The Munroe
        shocks are not OEM, thank goodness, because any shocks still on a
        vehicle with 159k on it would be as useful as chewing gum at stopping
        unwanted suspension movements.
        Shocks wear out, most should be
        replaced within 80k; most are not.
        If yours is the average, then
        your shocks still have some life in them. Check the front ones and
        replace these if that has not been done. It is easy DIY and transforms
        the handling.
        While you are there, check/replace all the sway bar
        bushes. Again, normal wear and tear.
        Have fun.

        John
        Christchurch, NZ - Thu 07th October 2010 07:15am (GMT)

      • Subject : Re : Re : Re : Mid 90's Nissan Mistral
        Hi, I tend to concur with what John has said. Mine has a slightly
        jerky change 1st to 2nd and always has. I have been told that on
        older autos this was easily corrected with a screw adjustment to the
        change pressure but more modern (ie ours) computer controlled autos it
        costs a bomb to make adjustments and if it is not too rough just put
        up with it. I have had minor problems with oil leaks from the turbo
        but these were fixed by replacing the soft hose and clamps on it. If
        you do buy it I hope you get the same good run I have had.

        Grahame
        Dunedin, NZ - Thu 07th October 2010 07:38am (GMT)

        • Subject : Re : Re : Re : Re : Mid 90's Nissan Mistral
          Cheers Guys, I am taking it to my mechanic tomorrow to give it a once
          over as I am not much mechanical guru. And if he gives it the all
          clear I'll be buying it but I will immediately give it a full service.
          What do you guys reckon about buying mechanical warranties? - they are
          about $600 for a year.

          Ian Straka
          North Shore, Auckland, NZ - Thu 07th October 2010 08:55am (GMT)

  • Subject : Re : Mid 90's Nissan Mistral
    We bought our 94 mistral in 1998,at 78000 km, it now has 345000km on
    it.It has never let us down,starts first time every time,done alot of
    towing, and although it is not over endowed with horse power, it
    handles our 16 ft caravan, canoes on roofrack with ease.
    Problems
    we have had are new waterpump at 120000km,crankshaft pulley started to
    slip on rubber center at 220000km,
    new alternator at285000km,
    injectors replced and pump serviced at 240000 km electric window
    winder failed(quite common and expensive)Found that some second hand
    parts can be expensive, better now because more of them are being
    wrecked.Watch out for rust under the rear seat.I have changed oil and
    filters religously and expect to get many more kms out of it

    Neill
    Tauranga, NZ - Thu 07th October 2010 09:11am (GMT)

 
Subject : help
Starts and immediately stalls my Terrano help please.kod error 17.18.
Why do I need a resistor injection pump test?

igore
chita, RUSSIA - Sun 03rd October 2010 01:29pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : help
    TERRANO,G3MR,QD32,1998.
    igore
    chita, RUSSIA - Sun 03rd October 2010 01:37pm (GMT)

 
Subject : Mistral vs Terrano
Thinking of buying either a Nissan Mistral or Terrano about a 1995
model. I would like to do some moderate offroad stuff with some river
crossings and am guessing the Terrano has the edge but am attracted to
the 7 seats of the Mistral...any opinions???

Greg
Dunedin, Otago, New Zealand - Wed 29th September 2010 10:26am (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : Mistral vs Terrano
    I have a 1995 Mistral and a friend has a similar year Terano. As far
    as we can tell there are 2 differences. 1. His Terano has a manual
    gearbox, all mistrals are auto and the upper body is different. It
    seems to me that the chassis and running gear are identical so off
    road should be pretty much the same. The Mistral has a limited slip
    rear diff but his Terano does not appear to have that. I would not
    view the extra seat in the Mistral as a great advantage since it is
    only suitable for small children. Many people remove it to get extra
    storage space. Hope this helps. I consider the Mistral an excellent
    vehicle for light off road. I have never had mine in a river so
    cannot comment. Grahame

    Grahame
    Dunedin, NZ - Wed 29th September 2010 09:19pm (GMT)

  • Subject : Re : Mistral vs Terrano
    You can find Terranos with LSD fitted standard, look for the Red
    sticker on the rear of the diff.
    Either Mistral or Terrano is fit
    for the purpose of 4 wheel driving, but a snorkel is recommended for
    water crossings, whichever you pick.
    Hard-out 4wd river crossings
    not recommended; don't forget the computers in either are not
    waterproof.
    Face it, if you are going to use all those seats with
    kids/passengers, how deep do you really want to go???
    The answer
    looked for in 4wd clubs to the question "What type of river crossing
    do you look for when 4WDing?"
    Answer: "The nearest bridge!"
    If
    you want to go boating, buy a boat.
    Have fun!!!

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Thu 30th September 2010 07:58am (GMT)

  • Subject : Re : Mistral vs Terrano
    We had a 94 mistral and it was a very reliable and cabable 4x4 . Its
    was no landcruiser or patrol but its pretty much a navara with coils
    at the rear instead of leaf springs . We managed to get ours to the
    top of Mt st bathans which is over 6500 feet above sea level and was a
    pretty chalenging track . A lot of the people on the trip were very
    surprised as most of them thought the mistral was a soft roader . As
    far as water goes the air intake is behind the headlight so water
    crossings need to be taken carefully . We now have a 97 r50 terrano
    and did a trip last xmas over mt piza range and would think the d20
    terrano or mistral would be a better 4wd . The 97 onwards mistral had
    an efi intercooled turbo which would be the pick of the td 27 s . The
    rear seats are pretty usless and are only really good for kids , but
    have done a trip or two in the back on the way home from the pub
    !
    Good luck in what ever you choose and get out there and get
    dirty !

    steve

    steve
    ashburton, nz - Thu 30th September 2010 11:20am (GMT)

 
Subject : 1996 nissan mistral 4wd the 4wd has been parked up for 3 months but started several times all ok now will not start and after only 3/4 attempts to start battery is flatened including new one any thoughts thanks

michael lawlor
christchurch, new zealand - Wed 29th September 2010 09:26am (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : 1996 nissan mistral 4wd the 4wd has been parked up for 3 months but started several times all ok now will not start and after only 3/4 attempts to start battery is flatened including new one any thoughts thanks
    Did you recharge the battery in the Mistral with a battery charger
    before you flattened it trying to start it this last time?
    If the
    "new" battery you installed was not suitable or wasa not of a high
    enough capacity (say 600 CCA) then it too will flatten very
    quickly.
    My suggestion: recharge both those batteries for 24
    hours, put your original back in, and hook the other one up with
    jumper leads, and try again!
    Don't forget the glowp;ugs suck 80
    amps until the engine warms up. Brief starting and running for 5
    minutes only drains the battery.
    Hope this helps

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Thu 30th September 2010 07:46am (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Re : 1996 nissan mistral 4wd the 4wd has been parked up for 3 months but started several times all ok now will not start and after only 3/4 attempts to start battery is flatened including new one any thoughts thanks
      1. Pre-glow
      When the ignition switch is turned on the ON position,
      the glow
      indicator lamp will turn ON and pre-glow starts.
      The
      glow relay is turned ON continuously. The ON time of both
      the glow
      indicator lamp and the glow relay is determined by the
      engine
      coolant temperature. Pre-glow ends when the pre-glow
      time elapses
      or when the engine is started.
      2.Intermediate
      glow
      Intermediate glow starts when the pre-glow time has
      elapsed
      and the engine has not been started. The glow relay is
      turned
      ON intermittently. Intermediate glow ends when the
      intermediate
      glow time has elapsed, or when the engine is
      started.
      3. After-glow
      After-glow starts as soon as the engine
      is running and the
      engine coolant temperature is below 50°C
      (122°F). The glow
      relay is turned on continuously. After-glow
      ends when the afterglow
      time elapses, or when the engine coolant
      temperature
      exceeds 50°C (122°F).
      MEC972D
      DTC P0380 GLOW
      RELAY, DTC P0381 GLOW LAMP
      TD27Ti
      http://bebrs.pie-dabas.net/Webs/Terrano/R20/ec.pdf
      So
      don't just start and run a diesel "for a couple of minutes" unless you
      want to screw the battery, or connect a charger in between 2 to 10
      minute runs!

      John
      Christchurch, NZ - Sun 16th January 2011 09:47am (GMT)

 
Subject : nissan 4wd

michael lawlor
christchurch, new zealand - Wed 29th September 2010 09:20am (GMT)
 
Subject : turbo repair kit for td 27
turbo is smoking bardly and need some urgent help to solve problem
Ernest Richardson
st david, Grenada - Wed 08th September 2010 10:46am (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : turbo repair kit for td 27
    TB25. Nissan #14411-7F400. (Garret # 452162-0001. Service kit #
    709143-0001. Gasket # 215110).

    Hope this helps.

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Wed 08th September 2010 07:58pm (GMT)

  • Subject : Re : turbo repair kit for td 27
    have a look at this
    page:
    http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=213599 >
    The only other course is to replace the turbo with a good
    second-hand unit

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Wed 08th September 2010 08:01pm (GMT)

 
Subject : Engine management light
Have a fantastic 1998 Nissan Terrano G3MR, engine QD32ETI. Recently it
start having a problem, at initial start first thing the morning on my
way to work the engine management light will start to flash, during
this period the engine will sometimes rev up and occasionally cut out,
when it doescut out! with the ignition on it takes a while to restart,
but when you switch it completely off and restart it starts fine, but
the engine management light still flashes. after driving for about
five minutes the light will go out and the engine will run fine
forever once you keep going. this also happens on my way from work
after it has rested for a few hours. I have read previous post and
have tried the extra ground wire but this did not work, there was one
guy christian who said he change his crank sensor, did this work? if
so let us know, but more recently i've read it could be the No.1
injector sensor. please if anyone have a clue as to what is happening
let us know. thanks in advance.

Roland
portsmouth, hampshire, UK - Tue 07th September 2010 10:54pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : Engine management light
    Yes, it was the crank sensor.
    A second-hand replacement and all
    was fine. See previous postings...
    You need to have the computer
    scanned, and the scan will tell you what is wrong.

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Wed 08th September 2010 08:12am (GMT)

 
Subject : 1999 Nissan Terrano R3 m-r model (gengine: ZD30(DDTi) 2953cc deisel engine
really need assistance. I recently bought a used 1999 Nissan Terrano
R3 m-r model (gengine: ZD30(DDTi) 2953cc and run for three weeks and
it get stuck. This is a deisel fuel engine and its problem is that the
fuel could not go thru the fuel injection pump to the injectors.
Please assist.\r\nThanks

Greg George

Greg S. George
Tofol, Kosrae, FSM - Mon 30th August 2010 10:31am (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : 1999 Nissan Terrano R3 m-r model (gengine: ZD30(DDTi) 2953cc deisel engine
    Put at least 20 litres of fuel into the fuel tank, or until it is
    full. Then you know you have fuel in the tank.The fuel guage could be
    misreading....
    Replace the fuel filter, filling it with fresh
    diesel before putting it back on.
    Use the knob pump until you
    cannot push it down.
    Loosen the fuel line where it exits the fuel
    filter, wrap it in a cloth, and se if fuel can be pumped out of the
    filter housing.
    Tighten this connection if fuel flows freely and
    without bubbles.
    Go to where the fuel ine enters the injection
    pump. Take off this connection, check for a gauze filter under the
    connection, clean it.
    Pump on the fuel filter knob and see if fuel
    flows freely.
    Out gauze back and tighten this connection, then use
    pump on fuel filter and pump until you can't pump any more.
    Now
    you know you have fuel getting to the pump.

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Tue 31st August 2010 03:38am (GMT)

  • Subject : Re : 1999 Nissan Terrano R3 m-r model (gengine: ZD30(DDTi) 2953cc deisel engine
    If the engine management light flashes or stays on, the computer will
    have an error code stored, and you will have to have it
    scanned/read.
    these engines sometimes have a problem with the No1
    injector lift sensor/ fuel pump timing solenoid, both giving the same
    fault code.
    See previous postings re this.
    Good luck.

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Tue 31st August 2010 03:42am (GMT)

 
Subject : drop links
Just a quick query, when i go over large bumps in the road ie potholes
and when i'm turning either left or right (not on full lock) i get a
clicking sound from the front drivers side suspension area. Had it
looked at very briefly by my friendly garage mechanic and he reckons
it could be the drop link. How easy are these to change? Anyone got
instruction sheets for this?
Thanks, Alec.

alec trollope
Elgin, moray, UK - Mon 23rd August 2010 11:41am (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : drop links
    How many miles on the clock?
    Ever replaced the shock absorbers or
    shock mounting bushes?
    Ever checked/replaced the sway bar bushes?

    Check your drag link for ball joint wear, especially if they are
    sealed ball joints (have no grease nipples)
    Go to your local
    library and gen up on procedures.
    Anything to do with steering or
    brakes have it checked by an expert.
    You will need to have the
    wheels realigned anyway after replacing steering links.
    If you
    have doubts, do it under supervision, you can kill yourself and others
    if you get it wrong.
    Cheers.

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Wed 25th August 2010 03:39am (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Re : drop links
      thanks for the reply, my vehicle has done 106k miles. had a look under
      and its got 1 new-ish drop link and the other looks original, probably
      replaced by previous owner but not as a pair as i think should have
      been done!! will gen up and have a look at getting someone to do it
      for me, ideally my friendly mechanic!


      UK - Wed 25th August 2010 10:23am (GMT)

 
Subject : nissan terrano lose of power
guy my dad as a nissan terrano2 1999, 2.7 tdi the engine runs sweet as
a nut but the engine managment light stays on and the turbo will not
boost

marc
dudley, west midlands, UK - Sun 22nd August 2010 07:45pm (GMT)
 
Subject : Nissan 3.2D valve Clearances
I have just overhauled my Nissan Hardbody 3.2D non turbo 2001 model. I
am picking a light knocking sound from the top when i rev the engine.
what could be the problem?Suspecting improper valve clearances. i
haven't got the service manual.

Allan Mukhalela
Brakpan, Johannesburg, RSA - Sun 22nd August 2010 01:49pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : Nissan 3.2D valve Clearances
    Time to ring your friendly mechanic and get the specs for tappet
    clearances.
    Without that info you are ****ing into the wind.

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Wed 25th August 2010 03:41am (GMT)

 
Subject : Terrano 2 misfire
My girlfriend has a Nossan Terrano 2 which has had a lot spent on it
over the years, it has developed a problem where sometimes it
missfires around 2000 RPM, black smoke is seen from the back of the
car, sometimes it clears quickly and sometimes changing gear to alter
revs sorts the problem. We have changed the fuel filter twice and a
mechanic today is taking off the fuel tank as he thinks there may be a
intremittent blockage (I am not convinced, he may prove me wrong). The
managemnet light sometimes comes on but gives no code, the N0. 1
injector has been checked and shows no fault. Any ideas please, all
well received and hoping to sort this out.

Chris
Bmth, Dorset, UK - Tue 17th August 2010 01:20pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : Terrano 2 misfire
    By changing the revs you are altering the input to and the output of
    the fuel pump.
    The fact that the management light comes on, then
    goes out, indicates that, at the moment, the fault is being detected,
    then being corrected.
    Once you can no longer correct it by
    "booting it in the guts" (increasing the revs)the management light
    will stay on, and you will be able to diagnose the problem via a
    scan.
    Int he meantime, consider cleaning the Throttle position
    sensor and MAF sensor, and also connecting an extra earth wire between
    a bolt on the engine and a clean bolt on the body, as there seem to be
    problems with the earthing straps on 1996-97 vehicles.
    See also
    previous articles re crank angle sensor etc.
    If you do later get a
    fault code for the No1. injector, don't forget it also covers the fuel
    pump timing solenoid.
    Good luck.

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Wed 18th August 2010 07:49am (GMT)

  • Subject : Re : Terrano 2 misfire
    check the banjo filter on the fuel pump
    brian
    Wolverhampton, West Midlands, England - Wed 25th August 2010 10:48pm (GMT)

 
Subject : Dipstick
1995 2.7td terrano. Could any-one wip out their engine oil dipstick &
let me know how long it should be? Appears to have a bit missing on
the end,if I can find out the correct size can save me 26 quid from
nissan. Thanks.

Jason
Elland, West Yorkshire, UK - Sat 14th August 2010 12:03pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : Dipstick
    Or, the next time you change your oil put in the measured, required
    amount..and check the dipstick against that for the right
    level.
    Who says that the dipstick you have in there is the right
    one or that it is correctly marked?
    Previously another owner
    thought that someone may have replaced a "lost" dipstick with
    completely the wrong one from some other vehicle!
    So if measure
    carefully you will know what is supposed to be in there, and where it
    should be marked on any dipstick. Plus you will have fresh oil in the
    sump.
    A win all round???

    John
    Christchurch, Nz - Sat 14th August 2010 10:09pm (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Re : Dipstick
      Yeah, am curious as to the length of said dipstick before I start
      removing existing oil & measuring out the 6.3ltrs required. Seems a
      long way round compared to someone with same engine wipping theirs out
      & measuring it.??

      Jason
      Elland, West Yorkshire, UK - Sun 15th August 2010 07:40am (GMT)

      • Subject : Re : Re : Re : Dipstick
        Think there are different length dipsticks for different models of
        nissan trucks with the td 27 We have had a navara and a mistral and
        pretty sure they were not the same length . On the mistral the tube
        where the dipstick went in was a lot higher up the engine so therefor
        needing a longer dipstick

        steve
        ashburton, nz - Sun 15th August 2010 11:23am (GMT)

 
Subject : Clutch fluid
Wheres my clutch fluid going?
The vehicle is a 99 Terrano 11
2.7.
Master & slave cylinders checked, no leaks.
Clutch works
perfectly but need to top up fluid every 200 miles.
There is a `T`
connector between master & slave going to the load adjuster valve,
this is the only escape route for the fluid. Why is the clutch
hydraulics connected to the load adjuster? & where is the fluid
going?
Help!

John Gaze
Northampton, UK - Wed 04th August 2010 10:56am (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : Clutch fluid
    How long have you owned this vehicle?
    Did it consume clutch fluid
    from Day 1? Have you gone to a brake/clutch or is it amateur sleuthing
    re the line to the load sensor?
    According to the laws of physics,
    fluid doesn't just "disappear"..you just haven't found where it is
    leaking.


    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Fri 13th August 2010 05:09am (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Re : Clutch fluid
      Hi John
      Clutch/brake setup totally standard.
      Had vehicle six
      months only just started losing fluid.
      I cant understand the
      connection from the clutch pressure line to the brake load sensor?

      Hi John
      Northampton, UK - Fri 13th August 2010 09:13am (GMT)

      • Subject : Re : Re : Re : Clutch fluid
        Nor can I.
        You have a choice, get it looked at by an expert, or
        keep pouring fluid into the reservoir every 200 miles.
        Doing that
        does give you the excuse to check everything under the bonnet quite
        regularly!
        Good luck, perhaps try to locate the leak by sprinkling
        talcum powder around the reservoir and the slave cylinder because you
        obviously have a very slight leak.

        John
        Christchurch, NZ - Fri 13th August 2010 09:19am (GMT)

 
Subject : Nissan 2.7 4 door pick up.
Hi Fokes
I have heard about a lot of these engines having real
problems with timing chain. Anyone know how we can fix this before it
knackers the whole engine?
Mine is coming up to 50K, just passed
its 1st MOT OK. 2007 import. I also heard that the imports don't have
the same problems, anyone heard of this?
Comments greatly
appreciated.

Pat McWilliam
Huntly, Aberdeenshire, UK - Thu 29th July 2010 06:55am (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : Nissan 2.7 4 door pick up.
    See previous re person who got 620,000km (375,000 miles) before the
    auto gave out.
    No mention of anything serious going wrong with
    the engine.

    Usual things that do go wrong with engine are
    the water pump, and the alternator.
    (They both went on mine
    around 60k miles)
    Both can be considered normal wear
    items.
    Alternator can be rebuilt using higher quality parts than
    OEM, water pump is easily and cheaply replaced.

    Read some
    previous posts, the general theme is to look after the engine by
    replacing the filters, oils, etc. on a regular basis.

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Thu 29th July 2010 09:27am (GMT)

 
Subject : Bad idle and stalling when cold
Hi All, we have a 94 mistral.Had for about 6 months and had a very
good run until now.About three weeks ago my wife started having
trouble with the Mistral coming up to traffic lights or slowing
down,Engine starts to run lumpy,we give it a little gas and she will
be doing say 3000rpm and just starts to loose power and then
stalls.Start up is hard and takes a while to fire and then when she
does lots of diesel smoke and then we are fine.Thismorning was the
worse its ever been and took about 15 minutes to get it to a point
where it could be driven. This doesn't happen every day.It appears to
be worse on a really cold morning,and doesn't happen in afternoons or
at night.Went to Nissan for a diagnostic but their reader wouldn't
accept the port that the Mistral has and they would have to do it
manually.Any suggestions from anyone would be great.Has anyone had
this happen to them?if so what was the cause and fix.We don't want to
go thru the it might be this and could be that scenario with Nissan as
that could cost heaps for something simple to fix.Thanks
Richard,Auckland.

Richard
Auckland, New Zealand - Wed 28th July 2010 11:44pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : Bad idle and stalling when cold
    Has the air and fuel filter been replaced lately . seems very strange
    to be worse when its cold . When its running ok dose it have plenty of
    power or seem sluggish ?

    steve
    ashburton, nz - Thu 29th July 2010 01:43am (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Re : Bad idle and stalling when cold
      Replaced air and fuel filters 2 months ago.Drives great and has good
      power,gains speed up hills doing 100kph.Did a big trip around North
      Island a few weeks ago,no problems what so ever and managed just over
      700kms on a tank of diesel.I wonder if its a glow plug problem or a
      sensor.Thanks

      Richard
      Auckland, New Zealand - Thu 29th July 2010 03:01am (GMT)

  • Subject : Re : Bad idle and stalling when cold
    The following are fault codes applicable to the 2.7TD

    http://bebrs.pie-dabas.net/Webs/Terrano/R20/ec.pdf
    Suggest
    you ring around and find a good tuning place that can hook up their
    scanner; it will make it so much easier.

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Thu 29th July 2010 09:02am (GMT)

  • Subject : Re : Bad idle and stalling when cold
    See previous recent post from owner in Australia who found dud glow
    plugs leading to similar symptoms.

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Mon 02nd August 2010 03:40am (GMT)

 
Subject : ford maverick /terrano 2.7 tdi 1999 s getting into gear
having trouble getting into gear. had new clutch 2 years ago its done
about 10,000 miles. about 2 weeks after having clutch done this
problem occured garage had a look said needed bleading seemed to do
the job for a while but then started getting same problem . im having
to pump clutch for couple of mins to be able to get in gear any ideas
neville boyes

neville boyes
rotherham, south yorkshire, UK - Tue 27th July 2010 09:58pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : ford maverick /terrano 2.7 tdi 1999 s getting into gear
    If bleeding cured the problem, it means that air has entered the
    hydraulic lines once again, and it needs bleeding again.
    Probably,
    if you have never done so before, you need an overhaul of the slave
    cylinder (the one under the car that activates the clutch)
    The
    quick repair is to buy a new slave cylinder,unbolt and throw away the
    old one, and bolt the new one in place.
    If you want to permanently
    cure the problem, have the bore of the slave cylinder sleeved with a
    seamless tube of stainless steel which cannot rust, no matter how much
    water, mud or salt you go through.
    You will still need to bleed
    the clutch to get the air out of the line, and it's a good opportunity
    to replace all the fluid at the same time.

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Tue 27th July 2010 10:59pm (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Re : ford maverick /terrano 2.7 tdi 1999 s getting into gear
      any idea what price a slave cylinder would cost
      neville boyes
      rotherham, south yorkshire, UK - Wed 28th July 2010 08:03pm (GMT)

      • Subject : Re : Re : Re : ford maverick /terrano 2.7 tdi 1999 s getting into gear
        I'm in New Zealand.
        My crystal ball is cracked.
        Try using
        the telephone, first call would be a Nissan main dealer's parts
        counter: suggest sitting down before you ask the price.
        Then ring
        factors and see how low you can go.
        Cheapest of all would be to
        buy the seal kit and do it yourself, but I think you will find
        corrosion on the bore of the cylinder which will quickly wear away at
        new seals, so you would need it re-sleeved anyway.

        John
        Christchurch, NZ - Wed 28th July 2010 09:32pm (GMT)

 
Subject : Nissan Mistral Tachometer
I have just imported into to Canada a 1995 Nissan Mistral. So far
everything is good except the tachometer works intermittently. Any
ideas how to make it work. If I hit the dash sometimes it will work.

Dawood
Nanaimo, BC, Canada - Tue 20th July 2010 10:16pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : Nissan Mistral Tachometer
    There is a known problem with the circuit board of the dashboard in
    these vehicles. When you hit the dash it shocks the circuit into
    contact, then vibrations of normal driving seperate the circuit again,
    causing the intermittent working/non working tacho, and sometimes the
    fuel guage.
    See previous posting in relation to this, and Google
    replacement dash for Pathfinders/Terranos/Mistrals available in USA.

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Wed 21st July 2010 09:40am (GMT)

  • Subject : Re : Nissan Mistral Tachometer
    There is obviously a
    problem

    http://www.mrwhizard.com/Repair%20Pricing.cfm#Start

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Wed 21st July 2010 09:58am (GMT)

  • Subject : Re : Nissan Mistral Tachometer
    http://www.bba-reman.com/content.aspx?content=Nissan_Terrano_cluster_f
    ailing

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Tue 27th July 2010 08:19am (GMT)

 
Subject : 1992 Terrano 4wd
Hello. Have a 1992 Terrano 2.7TD, auto. No user manual, and having
trouble finding a safe free download of the manual online. Want to
check the recommended way to engage/disengage 4wd, chiefly if it can
be done on the move, or if need to be stationary? Currently I stop,
place in neutral before engaging/disengaging, just to be sure. Cheers
for any help!

Sonny
Christchurch, NZ - Mon 19th July 2010 09:53am (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : 1992 Terrano 4wd
    2H to 4H:
    Below 40kmh when driving in a straight line No need to
    depress clutch or select neutral on auto boxes, but drive in a
    straight line while moving the selector.

    4H to 2H
    Any
    speed when driving in straight line.
    (Auto lock hubs will not be
    disengaged until you stop and move 1 metre in opposite direction.i.e
    when going forward, reverse one metre, when backing up, go forward 1
    metre and reverse 1 metre.

    For 4L or 4H to 4H or 4L.

    Stop vehicle.
    Select N on main gearbox, move transfer lever
    smartly between positions while depressing the gear lever.

    2H
    to 4L
    Stop. Select N in main gearbox.
    Depress transfer lever
    and move quickly and smoothly to 4L position

    4L to 2H.

    Stop.
    Select N on main gearbox.
    Depress transfer lever
    and move it smoothly and smartly to 2H.

    Exercise the transfer
    box at least once a month, summer and winter, and in both 4H and 4L on
    a loose surface (gravel/mud/wet grass)This keeps everything lubricated
    and moving freely.

    Hope this helps (it's taken directly from
    the owner's manual.)

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Tue 20th July 2010 04:16am (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Re : 1992 Terrano 4wd
      Thank John, just the info I was after. Appreciate your time and
      knowledge!

      Sonny
      Christchurch, NZ - Tue 20th July 2010 08:29am (GMT)

 
Subject : Nissan Mistral 1994
Hi there,
Does anyone know where I can buy a (stick on) smoked
rear wind deflector and the tiny mirror (that sits at the fron of the
passenger wing)? They have both been damaged and I would like to
replace.
Can't seem to find them anywhere (inc ebay).
Any
suggestions would be welcome.
Thanks
Steve

Stephen W
Hitchin, UK - Fri 16th July 2010 03:07pm (GMT)
 
Subject : engine missing
can i have some advice please, it involves 2.4i teranno that has a
missfire and holds back every so often has anyone got any ideas
please

ian graham
doncaster, s yorks, UK - Thu 15th July 2010 10:57am (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : engine missing
    ----Question-----
    Hi, I wonder if yo can help please.
    I have a
    Nissan Largo (import), it has the KA24DE engine (2.4i) A short while
    after buying we noticed a hesitation when pulling away, the revs drop
    slightly and there is no urgency so you have to really put your foot
    down to go anywhere, also it seems to struggle on hills.
    I changed
    all the filters and spark plugs (all genuine Nissan parts) but the
    problem still exists, in fact it seems to be getting worse. As it is
    an import (we are in UK) we are struggling to find anyone who can
    diagnose the problem, and worse still as the engine is located below
    the front seats it's a job and a half to get to the engine so there's
    an hour labour before they have started!.
    There also seems to be a
    smell of burning, I can only describe it as a smell of burning coal?
    and only really noticeable when the blowers are on. Not sure if this
    is linked to the problem?

    Any advise would be gratefully
    received!
    -----Answer-----
    Ok. You have to check some basic
    things to get closer to the cause. You need to check fuel pressure,
    engine vacuum and spark patterns. Is this car a stick or auto trans???
    If its an auto you may have a trans problem. Will it rev up in park
    with no load on the engine? If so then we can eliminate some
    things.

    Hi, thanks for your reply. It's an auto box, and when
    standing the engine revs fine. I had a look around the engine and
    couldn't find any split pipes. The reason I changed the spark plugs
    was the probe on the old ones were more needle like (pointed), rather
    than being flat? They were totally destroyed, and I have been told
    this could be a timing fault?

    Answer
    KA motors were
    known for chain tensioner failures. If this was the case you would
    feel this all of time, even when revving the engine. Your problem is
    load related. Make sure there are no leaks in the air intake hose to
    the throttle plate. My next step would be to drive it in D2 and see
    what happens. I am assuming that you have checked all of the basic
    stuff i.e: timing, idle, compression, engine vacuum, etc.

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Thu 15th July 2010 10:53pm (GMT)

  • Subject : Re : engine missing
    Just put "2.4l nissan engine hesitates" into google search and see
    what comes up,
    e.g.
    http://repairpal.com/spitting-and-sputtering-754
    (o2
    sensor stuffed)

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Thu 15th July 2010 11:03pm (GMT)

 
Subject : braking fault
left rear brake has poor performance replaced brake shoes cylinders
flexi pipe and spliter to rear wheels right rear works fine removed
left hand pipe from flexi to cylinder checked for blocks and there is
none help?

dc
ashburton, new zealand, UK - Thu 15th July 2010 10:18am (GMT)
  • Subject : braking fault
    its a nissan mistral 4wd auto with abs
    dc
    ashburton, new zealand - Thu 15th July 2010 10:21am (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : braking fault
      The pads you replaced on the left side..were they less worn than the
      ones from the right side?
      Are you sure that the pistons are not
      stuck in the cylinders on the left side?
      Does the ABS light on the
      dash illuminate?
      If you are stuck, go to a brake expert.

      John
      Christchurch, NZ - Thu 15th July 2010 10:48pm (GMT)

      • Subject : Re : Re : braking fault
        new brake shoes new cylinders new flexi pipe from steal tubing to
        spliter rear brakes abs light comes on and goes out (self check)abs
        works fine

        dc
        ashburton, nz, nz - Fri 16th July 2010 01:38am (GMT)

        • Subject : Re : Re : Re : braking fault
          Only thing left is the splitter, as the hydraulic pressure is
          sufficient to move one side's brakes, but not the other?

          John
          Christchurch, NZ - Fri 16th July 2010 07:50am (GMT)

 
Subject : gearbox
im just new to four wheel drive and just wanted to know how to use the
gearbox on my 2.7tdi terrano 2002 e.g the correct usage how to select
the gears where the 4 wheel drive gear selector should be in normal
driving etc any help would be appreciated thanx

paul
- UK - Mon 05th July 2010 04:23pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : gearbox
    This should help.
    It has all the Nissan owner's manuals for free
    download

    http://www.nissan-techinfo.com/deptog.aspx?dept_id=3
    6

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Tue 06th July 2010 01:14am (GMT)

  • Subject : Re : gearbox
    If you want to get really technical, have a look at
    these

    http://www.nicoclub.com/nissan-technical-articles#Pathf
    inder

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Tue 06th July 2010 01:26am (GMT)

 
Subject : oil in the breather pipe
Have noticed oil weeping from the air pipes from the aircleaner to the
intake manifold on nissan terrano 3.2 diesiel with 170 000 km on the
clock .Sounds like its a common thing on nissan 2.7 and 3.2 engines .
Will the oil eventually make it down into the intercooler and restrict
air flow as its very low in the front bumper , and is there a catch
can available to put on the breather pipe to collect the oil ?

steve
ashburton, nz - Mon 05th July 2010 06:03am (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : oil in the breather pipe
    Hi Steve,
    You can make your own catch tank, or buy one of the
    flashy "boy racer" ones.. see TradeMe.
    The oil vapours from the
    engine crankcase take the opportunity to fall out of suspension
    anywhere between where they enter the air intake system, through the
    turbo, through the intercooler and piping and into the
    engine.
    Thus the small "weep" of oil from the joints along the
    way.
    Oil coatings do reduce the efficiency of the intercooler.

    It basically forms an insulation against the rapid transfer of
    heat.
    I have had to clean the intercooler from a Mitsubishi.
    I
    took it off the vehicle, put a litre or so of petrol in, and swished
    it around while blocking the inlet/outlets.
    It was a filthy dirty
    liquid when it came out.
    I did this twice, then left the
    intercooler for 8 hrs in sunshine with the 'lets unblocked to allow
    the vapours to disperse.

    DO NOT IMMEDIATELY REPLACE THE
    INTERCOOLER ONTO THE VEHICLE.

    The petrol vapours will do
    nasty things if they get sucked into the engine.
    If you want to be
    thorough/obsessive, you could flush all the piping the same
    way.
    Hope this helps

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Mon 05th July 2010 10:11am (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Re : oil in the breather pipe
      Thanks john . Just had a look on trade me. Probably could make a catch
      can very similar to some of those . Think it would be a big job to get
      the intercooler off . Possibly have to remove bumper
      cheers

      steve
      ash, nz - Mon 05th July 2010 03:21pm (GMT)

  • Subject : Re : oil in the breather pipe
    BEFORE YOU FIT CATCH CAN READ
    THIS

    http://www.exploroz.com/Forum/Topic/29080/WARNING-_Oil_c
    atch_cans__Diesel_Engines.aspx

    Make sure the connections to/
    from catch can are large enough to handle the volume of air expelled
    by the engine.

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Tue 06th July 2010 08:10am (GMT)

  • Subject : Re : oil in the breather pipe
    Steve,

    http://forums.overlander.com.au/viewtopic.php?p=732268
    &sid=18832d05c66ab63cb5c2ba129f05f5e9

    Neatest I've seen!


    - UK - Tue 06th July 2010 08:16am (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Re : oil in the breather pipe
      Very interesting john . I would of thought as long as your fittings
      and hoses were the same size as the breather pipe that was there you
      should be ok . Will do some more homework before doing any work .
      There must be 1000s of terranos that have the same problem and still
      are going fine with slight blowback . We have a navara at work with a
      td 27 turbo fitted and done over 300 000 km . It has a lot of oil
      leaking out of the pipes but no intercooler to gunk up and still pulls
      great . Way better than my 3 litre hilux work truck .

      cheers

      steve
      ash, nz - Tue 06th July 2010 09:48pm (GMT)

 
Subject : abs
hi i have a nissan terrano 2 2.7tdi and my problem is when i brake my
brake on drivers side judders but if i turn wheel full lock my abs
light comes on and stays on and judder goes away this happens every
time i start car.can someone help please.thanks

pete
wednesbury, midlands, UK - Sun 04th July 2010 06:56pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : abs
    This mat help
    Subject : Nissan terrano II ABS braking
    problem
    I have a 1999 Nissan terran II se and it has developed an
    intermittant fault of a clicking/ticking noise whilst driving under
    the bonnet area and when the break pedal is pressed whilst the noise
    is present it judders/shoudders as though it is vibrating and it
    breaks at a slower pace and then grinds when it stops.
    could it
    need a new ABS pump my mechanic is about to change a CV joint and says
    this could be the cause of the ABS fault?
    helen
    grafton
    oldham, lancashire, UK - Wed 26th May 2010 07:14pm
    (GMT)

    * Subject : Re : Nissan terrano II ABS breaking
    problem
    Read through previous posts.
    There is
    mention of a couple of problems, including a pink wire from the ABS
    sensor in the harness going to the firewall which breaks and upsets
    the ABS, but that should show on the dash with "ABS" light coming
    on.
    Does the clicking noise occur only when turning left or
    right? Then it could be a CV.
    When your mechanic is checking
    out the CV, he will also look at the brakes, ABS sensors etc.

    Tell him to be careful re the ABS sensor;previous post refers re
    sender wire coming apart when handled roughly.
    Hope this
    helps.
    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Thu 27th May 2010
    08:45am (GMT)

    * Subject : Re : Nissan terrano II ABS
    breaking problem
    Previous post may help... * Subject : Re :
    Re : Nissan Mistral Brake problems
    Hi, I fixed the braking
    problem without any expense (so far). It was tiny metal grit and dirt
    stuck to the right abs sensor. After thoroughly cleaning the sensor
    with a rag and blowing out any loose girt from the gear housing with
    compressor the brakes work mormal!
    The metal grit on the
    sensor gave a false reading of the speed of the wheel (at low speeds),
    the abs valve would open to release the pressure to the brakes,
    therefore the grauching noise and bake pedal becoming tough.

    Cheers

    David Blundell
    Franklin, Auckland, NI,
    NZ - Thu 18th June 2009 09:40pm (GMT)

    John
    -
    nz - Fri 28th May 2010 06:03am (GMT)


    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Mon 05th July 2010 04:15am (GMT)

 
Subject : nissan mistral (terrano)
I have posted on here a few times about my nissan mistral 2.7td 1996.

It keeps stopping maybe 3 times or more a week when ever it
pleases. Weather i am idle or going 90 down the motorway. and also it
revs when i am at traffic lights and other places pushing me forward.
i have had it hooked to a computer and he says the fault is crankshaft
sensor. however it costes 220 pound for the sensor i dont want to
spend that much if it will not solve the problem. Can anyone tell me
if it will solve the problem if it is related in anyway. thanks.
christian

christian
- UK - Sun 04th July 2010 04:50pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : nissan mistral (terrano)
    Christian,
    See this
    article

    http://forum.difflock.com/viewtopic.php?t=52734&sid=f
    88a139cd8b81a90edf4f1ce5c7ccd10

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Mon 05th July 2010 04:50am (GMT)

  • Subject : Re : nissan mistral (terrano)
    Also
    this

    http://www.justanswer.com/questions/1k3ms-i-have-a-nissa
    n-terrano-it-starts-first-thing-while-cold-but

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Mon 05th July 2010 04:55am (GMT)

  • Subject : Re : nissan mistral (terrano)
    Christian,
    This guy is local to you, and seems to know a lot about
    diesels. Worth a phone
    call???

    http://www.dieselbob.co.uk/tips.shtml

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Mon 05th July 2010 05:08am (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Re : nissan mistral (terrano)
      Thanks John i will be give bob a ring he seems to know his stuff. his
      website is brill. thanks again John

      christian
      UK - Mon 05th July 2010 08:14am (GMT)

      • Subject : Re : Re : Re : nissan mistral (terrano)
        Sorted got the crankshaft sensor 44 pound from breakers. Got my mate
        to fit it. jobs done. All that messing around since last december for
        the sake of 44 pound. And my mates know how. I phoned diesel bob and
        it sounded expensive what he was going to do so i gave him a miss.

        christian
        UK - Sun 11th July 2010 11:56am (GMT)

 
Subject : Tired Terrano II 2.7TDi Engine
G'day All,
I have a Terrano II 2.7TDi that has 306,000
(kilometers) on it.
It has low-ish compression in the third
cylinder and is generally tired. Can't afford new vehicle and am
happy to hang on to this one. Many ancillaries are fairly new, it
suits what I want from a vehicle.
Does anyone know about
rebuilding bottom ends on these?
Was thinking of a simple hone
with rings and bearings. Get the head tidied up whilst its off and run
a kit through the turbo... Clean everything else up, fit an oil catch
can and blank the ERG to ensure it all stays clean in the
future.

Hopefully that third cylinder only needs a hone but I
could do a re-bore if it is damaged.

What info does the
Terrano II think-tank have to share?

Thanks for any
info.

Andrew
Syd, nsw, Aust - Wed 30th June 2010 12:29pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : Tired Terrano II 2.7TDi Engine
    I suggest getting the price of a low kms replacement engine as a
    baseline figure.
    Then go through the list of what you want to do
    and price that out.

    If you are doing everything yourself in
    regards to labour, it might be close as to which would be
    cheaper.

    If you get it overhauled by a shop, you better have
    a rock-solid quote from a good operator.

    If you replaced the
    engine, you can take your time "doing up" the original engine.

    This "time" includes sussing out the best places to do the
    overhauls /parts and you would still be able to use the
    vehicle.

    You could then place the original engine
    (overhauled) back in the vehicle and on-sell the
    replacement.

    Just my 2c worth....

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Wed 30th June 2010 01:30pm (GMT)

 
Subject : Terrano II 2.7TDi not starting.
I need urgent help to diagnose a mysterious engine fault on my
diesel.

Vehicle: Nissan Terrano II 2.7TDi
1997

Background info:
Saturday we worked on some steering
components.
This required removal of the battery.
When this
work was finished the battery was re-fitted and the car started
fine.
It was started another time during moving out of the
driveway etc and started fine.
Headed home later that night (half
city driving half tollway driving).
No problems, nothing out of
the ordinary during trip home. Everything OK.
Parked car as usual
on fairly flat ground.

Car would not start on Sunday
morning.

Starter works, engine turns over, but will not fire
up.
Still 3/4 tank of fuel, no visible leaks or puddles under
car.
I have tried again yesterday and today to get it to
start.

Things I checked:
1) Battery terminals – they
should be fine as the starter was cranking normally, but I cleaned
them and snugged them up again anyway, simply because the battery was
removed on Saturday and I wanted to eliminate the only thing we
touched.

2) Fuel. Bled system at fuel filter outlet and
primed pump until it became hard to push.

3) Checked wires on
diesel pump. A wire once came loose on the fuel cutoff solenoid but
that is ok now. Cutoff solenoid receives 11.8V when key turned to ON,
so it seems ok.

4) Glow plugs receive 12.4V with key turned
to ON, switch off at normal time. Relay makes right noises etc -
seems ok.

5) A new diesel pump, injectors, glow plugs etc
etc were installed no more than 25-30K ago at huge expense. So I
doubt it is a worn component in the fuel delivery.

To
re-iterate. The car was running perfectly fine, I parked it up as
usual.
Now the starter turns over, and everything seems ok - but
it refuses to start.

I know the Terrano II 2.7TDi is a bit of
an orphan, but I’m throwing this out there hoping that one of the
forum members has some experience or ideas that might
help.

Thanks for replies.

Andrew
Sydney, NSW, Australia - Tue 29th June 2010 06:27am (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : Terrano II 2.7TDi not starting.
    I would suspect that the immobiliser is doing it's job.
    You may
    have to reprogram the key fob and the alarm?

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Tue 29th June 2010 09:41pm (GMT)

  • Subject : Re : Terrano II 2.7TDi not starting.
    I checked previous posts here and found this

    The engine
    warning light acts as 2 warnings....if its on all the time there is a
    fault with the engine, however if its flashing it is a fault with the
    Alarm/immobiliser NATS ! usually if you take the keys out and lock the
    doors, unlock and try again it should go off.

    Hope this
    helps, look for flashing lights on the dash....

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Tue 29th June 2010 09:46pm (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Re : Terrano II 2.7TDi not starting.
      Thanks for the reply.

      The dash light doesn't flash.
      I
      haven't used the key fobs for last the 7 years - I use the ignition
      key to open AND start. I checked using both keys, and car still won't
      start.

      Will continue with fuel supply and glow plug
      investigation for now.

      Thanks again

      Andrew
      Sydney, nsw, Aust - Wed 30th June 2010 12:47am (GMT)

      • Subject : Re : Re : Re : Terrano II 2.7TDi not starting.
        Feedback:
        Put new fuel filter on (was due anyway).
        Cracked
        injector line and have pressure.

        Removed intercooler and
        glowplug buzzbars.
        Checked continuity of Glowplugs (should be 0.5
        Ohms).
        2 glowplugs were open circuit. 1 was 1.5MegaOhms. 1 was
        0.26MegaOhms...
        Have ordered 4 new glowplugs, part number
        CH162.
        Hope this will fix it.

        Andrew
        Syd, nsw, Aust - Wed 30th June 2010 06:43am (GMT)

  • Subject : Re : Terrano II 2.7TDi not starting.
    This is the best description of a problem plus fault-finding I have
    ever seen.
    What has caused the glow plugs to fry in
    25/30k?
    What brand were the replacement glowplugs?
    Did you
    have any problems with the thermostat keeping the engine too cool and
    thus allowing the glow plugs to stay on too long while the engine
    tried to reach 50C?
    Leading on from that, did you have problems
    with alternator/battery during this time as well?
    Good luck...

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Wed 30th June 2010 09:26am (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Re : Terrano II 2.7TDi not starting.
      Thanks mate.
      Tried to be clear so others can use info
      too.
      Perhaps glow plugs weren't really changed at 273K, they all
      'looked' different vintages (other work done at same time by workshop
      was also very lousy).
      Don't know of other problems that led to
      plug failure other than not truly being replaced. Although engine
      runs cool-ish, which is rare for T2's in Australia. Engine has done
      306K and is a bit tired so perhaps soot build-up on plugs?
      Starter
      replaced at 250K. Battery only 2 years old - No problems (kept it
      jumpered to another vehicle during testing).
      Will start another
      thread about tired engine.
      Thanks again for your replies.

      Andrew
      Syd, nsw, Aust - Wed 30th June 2010 12:14pm (GMT)

 
Subject : Nissan Terrano 1990 3M 2.7 TD Workshop Manual
Hi i was wondering if anyone could help me out with a workshop manual
for a 1990 Nissan Terrano 3M 2.7 Td.A PDF version would be
excellent.
Thankyou for your time.
Darren

Darren
Ringwood, victoria, Australia - Sun 27th June 2010 03:30am (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : Nissan Terrano 1990 3M 2.7 TD Workshop Manual
    Darren,
    have a look at
    this:

    http://arrc.epnet.com/autoapp/8671/8671.htm#8671R07_Fre
    e_Running_Hub.htm#T2

    Hope it helps

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Sun 27th June 2010 09:53pm (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Re : Nissan Terrano 1990 3M 2.7 TD Workshop Manual
      Thanks John but i really need manual for a diesel 2.7.But what you
      have sent me i can use for some other stuff so thanks for your
      help.
      Darren.

      Darren
      Ringwood, victoria, Australia - Mon 28th June 2010 10:42am (GMT)

      • Subject : Re : Re : Re : Nissan Terrano 1990 3M 2.7 TD Workshop Manual
        It's either a good thing or a bad thing that there seems to be no
        manual for the TD27 available freely on the net. Good, because it's
        seldom needed; bad, because when you do need it it's hard to
        find.
        If you want to pay, there appear to be quite a few sites
        available for downloads.

        John
        Christchurch, NZ - Mon 28th June 2010 12:27pm (GMT)

 
Subject : Fuse problem
What fuse controls the power to the centre console and luggage 12v
sockets on a Nissan terrano2

Geoff
Hawkwell, Essex, UK - Tue 22nd June 2010 02:56pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : Fuse problem
    I presume you have blown the fuse and are trying to find which fuse
    has blown?
    Buy a cheap multi-meter.
    Set it on the 20 volt DC
    scale.
    Clamp the black probe to earth on a metal part of the
    vehicle.e.g. the door restraining strap (unpainted) metal.
    Turn
    the ignition to "ACC" and start probing the top and bottom of each of
    the fuses in the fuse box with the meter's red probe.
    There is a
    small exposed portion on the fuse head, top and bottom, just for this
    purpose.
    You will find one that doesn't have 12 volts running
    through it i.e. the bottom of the fuse has 12v, the top will have "0"
    .
    This is the blown fuse.
    Replace this fuse with one of the
    correct rating.
    The rating should be displayed on the lid of the
    fuse box.
    Even if you can't read Japanese, you can see the rating
    in amps there.
    Hope this helps.
    Don't believe the rating of
    the blown fuse..it may have been replaced by someone who did not have
    the correct rated fuse (or who did not care).
    Buy spare fuses,
    there should be replacement ones clipped on the inside of the fuse box
    cover anyway.
    Hope this helps

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Sat 26th June 2010 04:54am (GMT)

 
Subject : airlock in water system
i have a jap import nissan mistral 2.7 diesel automatic.i have just
changed my radiator and thermostat but i now seem to have a massive
airlock which is pushing the temp gage right up.does can anyone help
in giving me advice on how to get the airlock out. thank you

nikki
northampton, northamptonshire, UK - Sat 19th June 2010 02:03pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : airlock in water system
    Let's analyse this: you just replaced your radiator and
    thermostat.
    Why? Did it overheat?
    If so, the probability is
    that the "huge air lock" is leaking combustion gases entering the
    cooling system through a warped head and a burst headgasket.
    Take
    it to a good radiator place or a garage with a tester.
    This
    tester sniffs the gases in the water of the radiator and confirms this
    situation.
    If you can see the water in the neck of the radiator
    bubbling and frothing at idle WHEN COLD, the head gasket would be
    almost a certainty.

    DO NOT TAKE THE CAP OFF THE RADIATOR
    WHEN HOT.

    The water (what's left) instantly turns to steam
    and blows out all over you, usually severely burning your
    skin.
    Or,as in my case, removing my mustache and
    eyebrows.

    Good luck

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Sun 20th June 2010 05:48am (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Re : airlock in water system
      thank you for your advice i,m going to get a mechanic to have a look
      at the head gasket and see if i need to replace it. i.ve had nothing
      but problems since i brought the car 3 years ago but its such a lovely
      car to drive.

      nikki
      northampton, northamptonshire, UK - Sun 20th June 2010 01:20pm (GMT)

      • Subject : Re : Re : Re : airlock in water system
        If you have the time, could you tell us about these problems? Usually
        the engines are extremely reliable, unless you run out of coolant,
        which is usually caused by old hoses, or a worn out water pump.
        If
        you tow a horse trailer or similar, and you have an auto trans and
        don't put an auxiliary transmission cooler inline with the one in the
        bottom of the radiator, that can cause overheating, too.
        If your
        mechanic finds head gasket problems, previous posts advise looking at
        replacing the engine rather than reconditioning it.
        Hope it
        doesn't come to that.

        John
        Christchurch, NZ - Mon 21st June 2010 01:45pm (GMT)

        • Subject : Re : Re : Re : Re : airlock in water system
          hi i'm still waiting for someone to have a look at the head gasket
          hopefully he'll be here this week to have a look. we've changed the
          starter motor 3 times the alternator and the water pump thermostat and
          radiator in the last 18 months. hopefully this will be the last big
          thing that needs changing.!!!!!

          nikki
          northampton, n orthamptonshire, UK - Wed 30th June 2010 01:57pm (GMT)

 
Subject : 1991 Nissan Terrano td27 leaking oil, no power and smoking bad.
I have a Nissan Terrano 1991 with a TD27 motor. Last week on a cross
country trip I heard a sound similar to a small electric motor
spinning out, it was at the front left of the car. Everytime I heard
the sound it would lose power, then the sound would stop and I would
have power again. After a while the sound stopped altogether but the
car had NO power. I had huge amounts of white smoke blowing out the
exhaust. I stopped, did a service on the car and drove it home- all I
get was about 40kph in 2nd gear. Then after a while it was running
fine again and I had a bit of power. Now there is little power, it is
still smoking badly and alternates between dark and light smoke. Also
the oil I put in last week is black already. Any ideas, I would really
appreciate some help.

Marius
Narobi, Kenya - Tue 15th June 2010 05:25pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : 1991 Nissan Terrano td27 leaking oil, no power and smoking bad.
    I think the colour of the oil is the least of your problems. Oil goes
    dark very quickly in this diesel. That's good, because it shows the
    oil is doing it's job and picking up the crap in the engine, holding
    it in the oil until it gets filtered out by the filter.
    I take it
    that the electric motor sound came from the left side of the vehicle
    as you sit in the drivers seat?
    Sounds like the turbo is not going
    too well.
    Could be partially seizing when hot.
    Try to get a
    pressure guage reading of the turbo boost when driving, and watch for
    spikes and dips in pressure.
    Should be up to 13lbs sq inch, and
    relatively steady.
    Otherwise check that the air intakes into and
    from the filter are not blocked or collapsed, and that the filter
    itself has not collapsed.
    Good luck, let us know how you got on.

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Wed 16th June 2010 08:08am (GMT)

 
Subject : IDLE PROBLEM ON HARDBODY 3.0TD
I hava a Nissan Hardbody 3.0TD. Suppose to idle at +/- 800 rpm.Idle
speed increase to +/-1200 rpm when in Neutral gear. Drops to +/-
800rpm when shifted into any gear ( 1st to 5th )

Pieter Botha
Middelburg, Mpumalanga, South Africa - Fri 11th June 2010 07:34pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : IDLE PROBLEM ON HARDBODY 3.0TD
    I presume you have a manual gearbox.
    Does the idle change
    immediately you put your foot on the clutch, or after you have
    selected the gear, but before you lift your foot off the
    clutch?

    If you have an automatic the neutral speed should be
    around 750rpm, if any gear is selected, around 700 rpm.

    Has
    this problem arisen:
    after maintenance,
    over a short
    time/long time,
    after going through deep water
    after some
    trauma or other?

    How many kms are on the clock? Have you ever
    cleaned the MAF sensor?



    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Sat 12th June 2010 06:21am (GMT)

 
Subject : Nissan terrano II ABS breaking problem
I have a 1999 Nissan terran II se and it has developed an intermittant
fault of a clicking/ticking noise whilst driving under the bonnet area
and when the break pedal is pressed whilst the noise is present it
judders/shoudders as though it is vibrating and it breaks at a slower
pace and then grinds when it stops.
could it need a new ABS pump
my mechanic is about to change a CV joint and says this could be the
cause of the ABS fault?

helen grafton
oldham, lancashire, UK - Wed 26th May 2010 07:14pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : Nissan terrano II ABS breaking problem
    Read through previous posts.
    There is mention of a couple of
    problems, including a pink wire from the ABS sensor in the harness
    going to the firewall which breaks and upsets the ABS, but that should
    show on the dash with "ABS" light coming on.
    Does the clicking
    noise occur only when turning left or right? Then it could be a
    CV.
    When your mechanic is checking out the CV, he will also look
    at the brakes, ABS sensors etc.
    Tell him to be careful re the ABS
    sensor;previous post refers re sender wire coming apart when handled
    roughly.
    Hope this helps.

    John
    Christchurch, NZ - Thu 27th May 2010 08:45am (GMT)

  • Subject : Re : Nissan terrano II ABS breaking problem
    Previous post may help... * Subject : Re : Re : Nissan Mistral
    Brake problems
    Hi, I fixed the braking problem without any
    expense (so far). It was tiny metal grit and dirt stuck to the right
    abs sensor. After thoroughly cleaning the sensor with a rag and
    blowing out any loose girt from the gear housing with compressor the
    brakes work mormal!
    The metal grit on the sensor gave a
    false reading of the speed of the wheel (at low speeds), the abs valve
    would open to release the pressure to the brakes, therefore the
    grauching noise and bake pedal becoming tough.

    Cheers

    David Blundell
    Franklin, Auckland, NI,
    NZ - Thu 18th June 2009 09:40pm (GMT)

    John
    - nz - Fri 28th May 2010 06:03am (GMT)

 
Subject : Clutch
Hi. I am trying to find out If the cluthes Will Fit the Earlier 2.4
Terrano 1993 Petrol ( Mk.1 ) AND the Later 2.4 Terrano 1998 Petrol
( MK.11 )I Know the earlier Clutch Plate Is 240 mm on the Earlier
model and the later Clutch plate Is 242mm On the later model Is this
the Only Difference ??? If so surely they are inter changeable ? I
hope Some one has the answer Thanks Regards Pat Ivis My Telephone
number is 01407 832382

Pat Ivis
Amlwch, Gwynedd, UK - Mon 24th May 2010 12:20pm (GMT)
 
Subject : Christian, good luck
Christian, I think you will find your problems solved after
that.
Today's vehicles with lots of electronic gadgetry can be
both easier to fix (because the electronic brain "remembers" what is
wrong and tells you) and more difficult (because you usually need a
specific electronic part to fix it)
You used to be able to "bodge"
a fix, now you can't.
A good modern mechanic has the training and
tools to recognise the faults presented to him by the computer, then
he replaces the faulty part, and hopes the fault is not in the wiring
itself.


- UK - Sat 22nd May 2010 01:17am (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : Christian, good luck
    Thanks for that its made me more positive about the problem its going
    in the garage tommor so will let you know if the problem is then
    sorted. I do like the terrano its a great car i use it to go camping
    so i get in some very good spots with the 4x4.

    christian
    great harwood, UK - Sun 23rd May 2010 11:00am (GMT)

  • Subject : Re : Christian, good luck
    Christian, please let us know how you get on with this. it is a
    problem that i have for a while now and no one seems to know how to
    fix if. does you check engine light flash just before this happens?

    Roland
    portsmouth, UK - Wed 26th May 2010 03:36pm (GMT)

    • Subject : Re : Re : Christian, good luck
      It is def the crankshaft sensor not got it done yet due to it costing
      250 pound i can live with the problem for the time being

      christian
      blackburn, UK - Sun 04th July 2010 04:39pm (GMT)

 
Subject : nissan mistral stopping
Hi there john from NZ i come on a few months ago asking for advice on
my p reg 2-7 td it kept stopping in the middle of me driving it it is
just cutting out at any given moment. Or having power surges pushing
the car forward not good when your in the drivers seat. Any way i
changed the earth cable and got it fully serviced and it still did
not solve the problem. so i have had an auto electrican up today he
hooked it up to the machine and it come up with crankshaft sensor he
cleared it and reset the thing and started car up and it came back so
looks like i need a new crank shaft sensor. Which is next on my list i
will let you no how i get on if it keeps doing the stopping shit after
that i am going to beat the hell out it with a stick the stupid pile
of shit before i crush the dam pain of my life...

christian
great harwood, UK - Thu 20th May 2010 04:06pm (GMT)
 
Subject : Nissan terrano TD 27
I have a Nissan terrano TD 27 engine of 1991 very strong car ever
seen, But I have experienced some oil leaks at the exhaust inlets,an
air inlet pipes from the turbo release some oil particles,one mechanic
told me,the oil leaks is from the turbo:Please any one to help me
solve the problem will be thanked.

Leo Lyayuka
Dar es Salaam, N/A, Tanzania - Thu 20th May 2010 07:34am (GMT)
  • Subject : Re : Nissan terrano TD 27
    If you do not have to top up the oil between oil changes, the leakage
    is probably blow by and oil vapour from the crankcase.
    This feeds
    into the turbo from the top of the rocker cover into the air intake
    tubing after the air filter, just before the turbo.
    This oil
    vapour goes through the turbo and then coats the inside of the piping
    going over the top of the engine.
    It usually leaks out from both
    ends of the rubber tubes that connect the pipe which has "Turbo" cast
    on it.
    You can make yourself a "catch can" to trap this vapour,
    but it's not going to harm anything until the engine is really old and
    worn out, when it is possible that the oil vapour may be enough to let
    the diesel run without fuel from the injectors.
    Thsi can lead to a
    "runaway engine" the only way to stop i