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Subject : 1999 Nissan Terrano R3 m-r model (gengine: ZD30(DDTi) 2953cc deisel engine really need assistance. I recently bought a used 1999 Nissan Terrano R3 m-r model (gengine: ZD30(DDTi) 2953cc and run for three weeks and it get stuck. This is a deisel fuel engine and its problem is that the fuel could not go thru the fuel injection pump to the injectors. Please assist.\r\nThanks Greg George Greg S. George Tofol, Kosrae, FSM - Mon 30th August 2010 10:31am (GMT)

Subject : Re : 1999 Nissan Terrano R3 m-r model (gengine: ZD30(DDTi) 2953cc deisel engine Put at least 20 litres of fuel into the fuel tank, or until it is full. Then you know you have fuel in the tank.The fuel guage could be misreading.... Replace the fuel filter, filling it with fresh diesel before putting it back on. Use the knob pump until you cannot push it down. Loosen the fuel line where it exits the fuel filter, wrap it in a cloth, and se if fuel can be pumped out of the filter housing. Tighten this connection if fuel flows freely and without bubbles. Go to where the fuel ine enters the injection pump. Take off this connection, check for a gauze filter under the connection, clean it. Pump on the fuel filter knob and see if fuel flows freely. Out gauze back and tighten this connection, then use pump on fuel filter and pump until you can't pump any more. Now you know you have fuel getting to the pump. John Christchurch, NZ - Tue 31st August 2010 03:38am (GMT) Subject : Re : 1999 Nissan Terrano R3 m-r model (gengine: ZD30(DDTi) 2953cc deisel engine If the engine management light flashes or stays on, the computer will have an error code stored, and you will have to have it scanned/read. these engines sometimes have a problem with the No1 injector lift sensor/ fuel pump timing solenoid, both giving the same fault code. See previous postings re this. Good luck. John Christchurch, NZ - Tue 31st August 2010 03:42am (GMT)

Subject : drop links Just a quick query, when i go over large bumps in the road ie potholes and when i'm turning either left or right (not on full lock) i get a clicking sound from the front drivers side suspension area. Had it looked at very briefly by my friendly garage mechanic and he reckons it could be the drop link. How easy are these to change? Anyone got instruction sheets for this? Thanks, Alec. alec trollope Elgin, moray, UK - Mon 23rd August 2010 11:41am (GMT)

Subject : Re : drop links How many miles on the clock? Ever replaced the shock absorbers or shock mounting bushes? Ever checked/replaced the sway bar bushes? Check your drag link for ball joint wear, especially if they are sealed ball joints (have no grease nipples) Go to your local library and gen up on procedures. Anything to do with steering or brakes have it checked by an expert. You will need to have the wheels realigned anyway after replacing steering links. If you have doubts, do it under supervision, you can kill yourself and others if you get it wrong. Cheers. John Christchurch, NZ - Wed 25th August 2010 03:39am (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : drop links thanks for the reply, my vehicle has done 106k miles. had a look under and its got 1 new-ish drop link and the other looks original, probably replaced by previous owner but not as a pair as i think should have been done!! will gen up and have a look at getting someone to do it for me, ideally my friendly mechanic! UK - Wed 25th August 2010 10:23am (GMT)

Subject : nissan terrano lose of power guy my dad as a nissan terrano2 1999, 2.7 tdi the engine runs sweet as a nut but the engine managment light stays on and the turbo will not boost marc dudley, west midlands, UK - Sun 22nd August 2010 07:45pm (GMT)

Subject : Re : nissan terrano lose of power Time for a scan of the computer. John Christchurch, NZ - Sun 22nd August 2010 09:59pm (GMT)

Subject : Nissan 3.2D valve Clearances I have just overhauled my Nissan Hardbody 3.2D non turbo 2001 model. I am picking a light knocking sound from the top when i rev the engine. what could be the problem?Suspecting improper valve clearances. i haven't got the service manual. Allan Mukhalela Brakpan, Johannesburg, RSA - Sun 22nd August 2010 01:49pm (GMT)

Subject : Re : Nissan 3.2D valve Clearances Time to ring your friendly mechanic and get the specs for tappet clearances. Without that info you are ****ing into the wind. John Christchurch, NZ - Wed 25th August 2010 03:41am (GMT)

Subject : Terrano 2 misfire My girlfriend has a Nossan Terrano 2 which has had a lot spent on it over the years, it has developed a problem where sometimes it missfires around 2000 RPM, black smoke is seen from the back of the car, sometimes it clears quickly and sometimes changing gear to alter revs sorts the problem. We have changed the fuel filter twice and a mechanic today is taking off the fuel tank as he thinks there may be a intremittent blockage (I am not convinced, he may prove me wrong). The managemnet light sometimes comes on but gives no code, the N0. 1 injector has been checked and shows no fault. Any ideas please, all well received and hoping to sort this out. Chris Bmth, Dorset, UK - Tue 17th August 2010 01:20pm (GMT)

Subject : Re : Terrano 2 misfire By changing the revs you are altering the input to and the output of the fuel pump. The fact that the management light comes on, then goes out, indicates that, at the moment, the fault is being detected, then being corrected. Once you can no longer correct it by "booting it in the guts" (increasing the revs)the management light will stay on, and you will be able to diagnose the problem via a scan. Int he meantime, consider cleaning the Throttle position sensor and MAF sensor, and also connecting an extra earth wire between a bolt on the engine and a clean bolt on the body, as there seem to be problems with the earthing straps on 1996-97 vehicles. See also previous articles re crank angle sensor etc. If you do later get a fault code for the No1. injector, don't forget it also covers the fuel pump timing solenoid. Good luck. John Christchurch, NZ - Wed 18th August 2010 07:49am (GMT) Subject : Re : Terrano 2 misfire check the banjo filter on the fuel pump brian Wolverhampton, West Midlands, England - Wed 25th August 2010 10:48pm (GMT)

Subject : Dipstick 1995 2.7td terrano. Could any-one wip out their engine oil dipstick & let me know how long it should be? Appears to have a bit missing on the end,if I can find out the correct size can save me 26 quid from nissan. Thanks. Jason Elland, West Yorkshire, UK - Sat 14th August 2010 12:03pm (GMT)

Subject : Re : Dipstick Or, the next time you change your oil put in the measured, required amount..and check the dipstick against that for the right level. Who says that the dipstick you have in there is the right one or that it is correctly marked? Previously another owner thought that someone may have replaced a "lost" dipstick with completely the wrong one from some other vehicle! So if measure carefully you will know what is supposed to be in there, and where it should be marked on any dipstick. Plus you will have fresh oil in the sump. A win all round??? John Christchurch, Nz - Sat 14th August 2010 10:09pm (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : Dipstick Yeah, am curious as to the length of said dipstick before I start removing existing oil & measuring out the 6.3ltrs required. Seems a long way round compared to someone with same engine wipping theirs out & measuring it.?? Jason Elland, West Yorkshire, UK - Sun 15th August 2010 07:40am (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : Re : Dipstick Think there are different length dipsticks for different models of nissan trucks with the td 27 We have had a navara and a mistral and pretty sure they were not the same length . On the mistral the tube where the dipstick went in was a lot higher up the engine so therefor needing a longer dipstick steve ashburton, nz - Sun 15th August 2010 11:23am (GMT)

Subject : Clutch fluid Wheres my clutch fluid going? The vehicle is a 99 Terrano 11 2.7. Master & slave cylinders checked, no leaks. Clutch works perfectly but need to top up fluid every 200 miles. There is a `T` connector between master & slave going to the load adjuster valve, this is the only escape route for the fluid. Why is the clutch hydraulics connected to the load adjuster? & where is the fluid going? Help! John Gaze Northampton, UK - Wed 04th August 2010 10:56am (GMT)

Subject : Re : Clutch fluid How long have you owned this vehicle? Did it consume clutch fluid from Day 1? Have you gone to a brake/clutch or is it amateur sleuthing re the line to the load sensor? According to the laws of physics, fluid doesn't just "disappear"..you just haven't found where it is leaking. John Christchurch, NZ - Fri 13th August 2010 05:09am (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : Clutch fluid Hi John Clutch/brake setup totally standard. Had vehicle six months only just started losing fluid. I cant understand the connection from the clutch pressure line to the brake load sensor? Hi John Northampton, UK - Fri 13th August 2010 09:13am (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : Re : Clutch fluid Nor can I. You have a choice, get it looked at by an expert, or keep pouring fluid into the reservoir every 200 miles. Doing that does give you the excuse to check everything under the bonnet quite regularly! Good luck, perhaps try to locate the leak by sprinkling talcum powder around the reservoir and the slave cylinder because you obviously have a very slight leak. John Christchurch, NZ - Fri 13th August 2010 09:19am (GMT)

Subject : Nissan 2.7 4 door pick up. Hi Fokes I have heard about a lot of these engines having real problems with timing chain. Anyone know how we can fix this before it knackers the whole engine? Mine is coming up to 50K, just passed its 1st MOT OK. 2007 import. I also heard that the imports don't have the same problems, anyone heard of this? Comments greatly appreciated. Pat McWilliam Huntly, Aberdeenshire, UK - Thu 29th July 2010 06:55am (GMT)

Subject : Re : Nissan 2.7 4 door pick up. See previous re person who got 620,000km (375,000 miles) before the auto gave out. No mention of anything serious going wrong with the engine. Usual things that do go wrong with engine are the water pump, and the alternator. (They both went on mine around 60k miles) Both can be considered normal wear items. Alternator can be rebuilt using higher quality parts than OEM, water pump is easily and cheaply replaced. Read some previous posts, the general theme is to look after the engine by replacing the filters, oils, etc. on a regular basis. John Christchurch, NZ - Thu 29th July 2010 09:27am (GMT) Subject : Re : Nissan 2.7 4 door pick up. http://uk.answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20070213140741AAtbdJ1 - UK - Thu 29th July 2010 09:48pm (GMT)

Subject : Bad idle and stalling when cold Hi All, we have a 94 mistral.Had for about 6 months and had a very good run until now.About three weeks ago my wife started having trouble with the Mistral coming up to traffic lights or slowing down,Engine starts to run lumpy,we give it a little gas and she will be doing say 3000rpm and just starts to loose power and then stalls.Start up is hard and takes a while to fire and then when she does lots of diesel smoke and then we are fine.Thismorning was the worse its ever been and took about 15 minutes to get it to a point where it could be driven. This doesn't happen every day.It appears to be worse on a really cold morning,and doesn't happen in afternoons or at night.Went to Nissan for a diagnostic but their reader wouldn't accept the port that the Mistral has and they would have to do it manually.Any suggestions from anyone would be great.Has anyone had this happen to them?if so what was the cause and fix.We don't want to go thru the it might be this and could be that scenario with Nissan as that could cost heaps for something simple to fix.Thanks Richard,Auckland. Richard Auckland, New Zealand - Wed 28th July 2010 11:44pm (GMT)

Subject : Re : Bad idle and stalling when cold Has the air and fuel filter been replaced lately . seems very strange to be worse when its cold . When its running ok dose it have plenty of power or seem sluggish ? steve ashburton, nz - Thu 29th July 2010 01:43am (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : Bad idle and stalling when cold Replaced air and fuel filters 2 months ago.Drives great and has good power,gains speed up hills doing 100kph.Did a big trip around North Island a few weeks ago,no problems what so ever and managed just over 700kms on a tank of diesel.I wonder if its a glow plug problem or a sensor.Thanks Richard Auckland, New Zealand - Thu 29th July 2010 03:01am (GMT) Subject : Re : Bad idle and stalling when cold The following are fault codes applicable to the 2.7TD http://bebrs.pie-dabas.net/Webs/Terrano/R20/ec.pdf Suggest you ring around and find a good tuning place that can hook up their scanner; it will make it so much easier. John Christchurch, NZ - Thu 29th July 2010 09:02am (GMT) Subject : Re : Bad idle and stalling when cold See previous recent post from owner in Australia who found dud glow plugs leading to similar symptoms. John Christchurch, NZ - Mon 02nd August 2010 03:40am (GMT)

Subject : ford maverick /terrano 2.7 tdi 1999 s getting into gear having trouble getting into gear. had new clutch 2 years ago its done about 10,000 miles. about 2 weeks after having clutch done this problem occured garage had a look said needed bleading seemed to do the job for a while but then started getting same problem . im having to pump clutch for couple of mins to be able to get in gear any ideas neville boyes neville boyes rotherham, south yorkshire, UK - Tue 27th July 2010 09:58pm (GMT)

Subject : Re : ford maverick /terrano 2.7 tdi 1999 s getting into gear If bleeding cured the problem, it means that air has entered the hydraulic lines once again, and it needs bleeding again. Probably, if you have never done so before, you need an overhaul of the slave cylinder (the one under the car that activates the clutch) The quick repair is to buy a new slave cylinder,unbolt and throw away the old one, and bolt the new one in place. If you want to permanently cure the problem, have the bore of the slave cylinder sleeved with a seamless tube of stainless steel which cannot rust, no matter how much water, mud or salt you go through. You will still need to bleed the clutch to get the air out of the line, and it's a good opportunity to replace all the fluid at the same time. John Christchurch, NZ - Tue 27th July 2010 10:59pm (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : ford maverick /terrano 2.7 tdi 1999 s getting into gear any idea what price a slave cylinder would cost neville boyes rotherham, south yorkshire, UK - Wed 28th July 2010 08:03pm (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : Re : ford maverick /terrano 2.7 tdi 1999 s getting into gear I'm in New Zealand. My crystal ball is cracked. Try using the telephone, first call would be a Nissan main dealer's parts counter: suggest sitting down before you ask the price. Then ring factors and see how low you can go. Cheapest of all would be to buy the seal kit and do it yourself, but I think you will find corrosion on the bore of the cylinder which will quickly wear away at new seals, so you would need it re-sleeved anyway. John Christchurch, NZ - Wed 28th July 2010 09:32pm (GMT)

Subject : Nissan Mistral Tachometer I have just imported into to Canada a 1995 Nissan Mistral. So far everything is good except the tachometer works intermittently. Any ideas how to make it work. If I hit the dash sometimes it will work. Dawood Nanaimo, BC, Canada - Tue 20th July 2010 10:16pm (GMT)

Subject : Re : Nissan Mistral Tachometer There is a known problem with the circuit board of the dashboard in these vehicles. When you hit the dash it shocks the circuit into contact, then vibrations of normal driving seperate the circuit again, causing the intermittent working/non working tacho, and sometimes the fuel guage. See previous posting in relation to this, and Google replacement dash for Pathfinders/Terranos/Mistrals available in USA. John Christchurch, NZ - Wed 21st July 2010 09:40am (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : Nissan Mistral Tachometer Is there a way one can fix the circuit board themselves? DAWOOD CANADA - Wed 21st July 2010 08:54pm (GMT) Subject : Re : Nissan Mistral Tachometer There is obviously a problem http://www.mrwhizard.com/Repair%20Pricing.cfm#Start John Christchurch, NZ - Wed 21st July 2010 09:58am (GMT) Subject : Re : Nissan Mistral Tachometer http://www.bba-reman.com/content.aspx?content=Nissan_Terrano_cluster_failing John Christchurch, NZ - Tue 27th July 2010 08:19am (GMT)

Subject : 1992 Terrano 4wd Hello. Have a 1992 Terrano 2.7TD, auto. No user manual, and having trouble finding a safe free download of the manual online. Want to check the recommended way to engage/disengage 4wd, chiefly if it can be done on the move, or if need to be stationary? Currently I stop, place in neutral before engaging/disengaging, just to be sure. Cheers for any help! Sonny Christchurch, NZ - Mon 19th July 2010 09:53am (GMT)

Subject : Re : 1992 Terrano 4wd 2H to 4H: Below 40kmh when driving in a straight line No need to depress clutch or select neutral on auto boxes, but drive in a straight line while moving the selector. 4H to 2H Any speed when driving in straight line. (Auto lock hubs will not be disengaged until you stop and move 1 metre in opposite direction.i.e when going forward, reverse one metre, when backing up, go forward 1 metre and reverse 1 metre. For 4L or 4H to 4H or 4L. Stop vehicle. Select N on main gearbox, move transfer lever smartly between positions while depressing the gear lever. 2H to 4L Stop. Select N in main gearbox. Depress transfer lever and move quickly and smoothly to 4L position 4L to 2H. Stop. Select N on main gearbox. Depress transfer lever and move it smoothly and smartly to 2H. Exercise the transfer box at least once a month, summer and winter, and in both 4H and 4L on a loose surface (gravel/mud/wet grass)This keeps everything lubricated and moving freely. Hope this helps (it's taken directly from the owner's manual.) John Christchurch, NZ - Tue 20th July 2010 04:16am (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : 1992 Terrano 4wd Thank John, just the info I was after. Appreciate your time and knowledge! Sonny Christchurch, NZ - Tue 20th July 2010 08:29am (GMT)

Subject : Nissan Mistral 1994 Hi there, Does anyone know where I can buy a (stick on) smoked rear wind deflector and the tiny mirror (that sits at the fron of the passenger wing)? They have both been damaged and I would like to replace. Can't seem to find them anywhere (inc ebay). Any suggestions would be welcome. Thanks Steve Stephen W Hitchin, UK - Fri 16th July 2010 03:07pm (GMT)

Subject : engine missing can i have some advice please, it involves 2.4i teranno that has a missfire and holds back every so often has anyone got any ideas please ian graham doncaster, s yorks, UK - Thu 15th July 2010 10:57am (GMT)

Subject : Re : engine missing ----Question----- Hi, I wonder if yo can help please. I have a Nissan Largo (import), it has the KA24DE engine (2.4i) A short while after buying we noticed a hesitation when pulling away, the revs drop slightly and there is no urgency so you have to really put your foot down to go anywhere, also it seems to struggle on hills. I changed all the filters and spark plugs (all genuine Nissan parts) but the problem still exists, in fact it seems to be getting worse. As it is an import (we are in UK) we are struggling to find anyone who can diagnose the problem, and worse still as the engine is located below the front seats it's a job and a half to get to the engine so there's an hour labour before they have started!. There also seems to be a smell of burning, I can only describe it as a smell of burning coal? and only really noticeable when the blowers are on. Not sure if this is linked to the problem? Any advise would be gratefully received! -----Answer----- Ok. You have to check some basic things to get closer to the cause. You need to check fuel pressure, engine vacuum and spark patterns. Is this car a stick or auto trans??? If its an auto you may have a trans problem. Will it rev up in park with no load on the engine? If so then we can eliminate some things. Hi, thanks for your reply. It's an auto box, and when standing the engine revs fine. I had a look around the engine and couldn't find any split pipes. The reason I changed the spark plugs was the probe on the old ones were more needle like (pointed), rather than being flat? They were totally destroyed, and I have been told this could be a timing fault? Answer KA motors were known for chain tensioner failures. If this was the case you would feel this all of time, even when revving the engine. Your problem is load related. Make sure there are no leaks in the air intake hose to the throttle plate. My next step would be to drive it in D2 and see what happens. I am assuming that you have checked all of the basic stuff i.e: timing, idle, compression, engine vacuum, etc. John Christchurch, NZ - Thu 15th July 2010 10:53pm (GMT) Subject : Re : engine missing Just put "2.4l nissan engine hesitates" into google search and see what comes up, e.g. http://repairpal.com/spitting-and-sputtering-754 (o2 sensor stuffed) John Christchurch, NZ - Thu 15th July 2010 11:03pm (GMT)

Subject : braking fault left rear brake has poor performance replaced brake shoes cylinders flexi pipe and spliter to rear wheels right rear works fine removed left hand pipe from flexi to cylinder checked for blocks and there is none help? dc ashburton, new zealand, UK - Thu 15th July 2010 10:18am (GMT)

Subject : braking fault its a nissan mistral 4wd auto with abs dc ashburton, new zealand - Thu 15th July 2010 10:21am (GMT) Subject : Re : braking fault The pads you replaced on the left side..were they less worn than the ones from the right side? Are you sure that the pistons are not stuck in the cylinders on the left side? Does the ABS light on the dash illuminate? If you are stuck, go to a brake expert. John Christchurch, NZ - Thu 15th July 2010 10:48pm (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : braking fault new brake shoes new cylinders new flexi pipe from steal tubing to spliter rear brakes abs light comes on and goes out (self check)abs works fine dc ashburton, nz, nz - Fri 16th July 2010 01:38am (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : Re : braking fault Only thing left is the splitter, as the hydraulic pressure is sufficient to move one side's brakes, but not the other? John Christchurch, NZ - Fri 16th July 2010 07:50am (GMT)

Subject : gearbox im just new to four wheel drive and just wanted to know how to use the gearbox on my 2.7tdi terrano 2002 e.g the correct usage how to select the gears where the 4 wheel drive gear selector should be in normal driving etc any help would be appreciated thanx paul - UK - Mon 05th July 2010 04:23pm (GMT)

Subject : Re : gearbox This should help. It has all the Nissan owner's manuals for free download http://www.nissan-techinfo.com/deptog.aspx?dept_id=36 John Christchurch, NZ - Tue 06th July 2010 01:14am (GMT) Subject : Re : gearbox If you want to get really technical, have a look at these http://www.nicoclub.com/nissan-technical-articles#Pathfinder John Christchurch, NZ - Tue 06th July 2010 01:26am (GMT)

Subject : oil in the breather pipe Have noticed oil weeping from the air pipes from the aircleaner to the intake manifold on nissan terrano 3.2 diesiel with 170 000 km on the clock .Sounds like its a common thing on nissan 2.7 and 3.2 engines . Will the oil eventually make it down into the intercooler and restrict air flow as its very low in the front bumper , and is there a catch can available to put on the breather pipe to collect the oil ? steve ashburton, nz - Mon 05th July 2010 06:03am (GMT)

Subject : Re : oil in the breather pipe Hi Steve, You can make your own catch tank, or buy one of the flashy "boy racer" ones.. see TradeMe. The oil vapours from the engine crankcase take the opportunity to fall out of suspension anywhere between where they enter the air intake system, through the turbo, through the intercooler and piping and into the engine. Thus the small "weep" of oil from the joints along the way. Oil coatings do reduce the efficiency of the intercooler. It basically forms an insulation against the rapid transfer of heat. I have had to clean the intercooler from a Mitsubishi. I took it off the vehicle, put a litre or so of petrol in, and swished it around while blocking the inlet/outlets. It was a filthy dirty liquid when it came out. I did this twice, then left the intercooler for 8 hrs in sunshine with the 'lets unblocked to allow the vapours to disperse. DO NOT IMMEDIATELY REPLACE THE INTERCOOLER ONTO THE VEHICLE. The petrol vapours will do nasty things if they get sucked into the engine. If you want to be thorough/obsessive, you could flush all the piping the same way. Hope this helps John Christchurch, NZ - Mon 05th July 2010 10:11am (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : oil in the breather pipe Thanks john . Just had a look on trade me. Probably could make a catch can very similar to some of those . Think it would be a big job to get the intercooler off . Possibly have to remove bumper cheers steve ash, nz - Mon 05th July 2010 03:21pm (GMT) Subject : Re : oil in the breather pipe BEFORE YOU FIT CATCH CAN READ THIS http://www.exploroz.com/Forum/Topic/29080/WARNING-_Oil_catch_cans__Diesel_Engines.aspx Make sure the connections to/ from catch can are large enough to handle the volume of air expelled by the engine. John Christchurch, NZ - Tue 06th July 2010 08:10am (GMT) Subject : Re : oil in the breather pipe Steve, http://forums.overlander.com.au/viewtopic.php?p=732268&sid=18832d05c66ab63cb5c2ba129f05f5e9 Neatest I've seen! - UK - Tue 06th July 2010 08:16am (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : oil in the breather pipe Very interesting john . I would of thought as long as your fittings and hoses were the same size as the breather pipe that was there you should be ok . Will do some more homework before doing any work . There must be 1000s of terranos that have the same problem and still are going fine with slight blowback . We have a navara at work with a td 27 turbo fitted and done over 300 000 km . It has a lot of oil leaking out of the pipes but no intercooler to gunk up and still pulls great . Way better than my 3 litre hilux work truck . cheers steve ash, nz - Tue 06th July 2010 09:48pm (GMT)

Subject : abs hi i have a nissan terrano 2 2.7tdi and my problem is when i brake my brake on drivers side judders but if i turn wheel full lock my abs light comes on and stays on and judder goes away this happens every time i start car.can someone help please.thanks pete wednesbury, midlands, UK - Sun 04th July 2010 06:56pm (GMT)

Subject : Re : abs This mat help Subject : Nissan terrano II ABS braking problem I have a 1999 Nissan terran II se and it has developed an intermittant fault of a clicking/ticking noise whilst driving under the bonnet area and when the break pedal is pressed whilst the noise is present it judders/shoudders as though it is vibrating and it breaks at a slower pace and then grinds when it stops. could it need a new ABS pump my mechanic is about to change a CV joint and says this could be the cause of the ABS fault? helen grafton oldham, lancashire, UK - Wed 26th May 2010 07:14pm (GMT) * Subject : Re : Nissan terrano II ABS breaking problem Read through previous posts. There is mention of a couple of problems, including a pink wire from the ABS sensor in the harness going to the firewall which breaks and upsets the ABS, but that should show on the dash with "ABS" light coming on. Does the clicking noise occur only when turning left or right? Then it could be a CV. When your mechanic is checking out the CV, he will also look at the brakes, ABS sensors etc. Tell him to be careful re the ABS sensor;previous post refers re sender wire coming apart when handled roughly. Hope this helps. John Christchurch, NZ - Thu 27th May 2010 08:45am (GMT) * Subject : Re : Nissan terrano II ABS breaking problem Previous post may help... * Subject : Re : Re : Nissan Mistral Brake problems Hi, I fixed the braking problem without any expense (so far). It was tiny metal grit and dirt stuck to the right abs sensor. After thoroughly cleaning the sensor with a rag and blowing out any loose girt from the gear housing with compressor the brakes work mormal! The metal grit on the sensor gave a false reading of the speed of the wheel (at low speeds), the abs valve would open to release the pressure to the brakes, therefore the grauching noise and bake pedal becoming tough. Cheers David Blundell Franklin, Auckland, NI, NZ - Thu 18th June 2009 09:40pm (GMT) John - nz - Fri 28th May 2010 06:03am (GMT) John Christchurch, NZ - Mon 05th July 2010 04:15am (GMT)

Subject : nissan mistral (terrano) I have posted on here a few times about my nissan mistral 2.7td 1996. It keeps stopping maybe 3 times or more a week when ever it pleases. Weather i am idle or going 90 down the motorway. and also it revs when i am at traffic lights and other places pushing me forward. i have had it hooked to a computer and he says the fault is crankshaft sensor. however it costes 220 pound for the sensor i dont want to spend that much if it will not solve the problem. Can anyone tell me if it will solve the problem if it is related in anyway. thanks. christian christian - UK - Sun 04th July 2010 04:50pm (GMT)

Subject : Re : nissan mistral (terrano) Christian, See this article http://forum.difflock.com/viewtopic.php?t=52734&sid=f88a139cd8b81a90edf4f1ce5c7ccd10 John Christchurch, NZ - Mon 05th July 2010 04:50am (GMT) Subject : Re : nissan mistral (terrano) Also this http://www.justanswer.com/questions/1k3ms-i-have-a-nissan-terrano-it-starts-first-thing-while-cold-but John Christchurch, NZ - Mon 05th July 2010 04:55am (GMT) Subject : Re : nissan mistral (terrano) Christian, This guy is local to you, and seems to know a lot about diesels. Worth a phone call??? http://www.dieselbob.co.uk/tips.shtml John Christchurch, NZ - Mon 05th July 2010 05:08am (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : nissan mistral (terrano) Thanks John i will be give bob a ring he seems to know his stuff. his website is brill. thanks again John christian UK - Mon 05th July 2010 08:14am (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : Re : nissan mistral (terrano) Sorted got the crankshaft sensor 44 pound from breakers. Got my mate to fit it. jobs done. All that messing around since last december for the sake of 44 pound. And my mates know how. I phoned diesel bob and it sounded expensive what he was going to do so i gave him a miss. christian UK - Sun 11th July 2010 11:56am (GMT)

Subject : Tired Terrano II 2.7TDi Engine G'day All, I have a Terrano II 2.7TDi that has 306,000 (kilometers) on it. It has low-ish compression in the third cylinder and is generally tired. Can't afford new vehicle and am happy to hang on to this one. Many ancillaries are fairly new, it suits what I want from a vehicle. Does anyone know about rebuilding bottom ends on these? Was thinking of a simple hone with rings and bearings. Get the head tidied up whilst its off and run a kit through the turbo... Clean everything else up, fit an oil catch can and blank the ERG to ensure it all stays clean in the future. Hopefully that third cylinder only needs a hone but I could do a re-bore if it is damaged. What info does the Terrano II think-tank have to share? Thanks for any info. Andrew Syd, nsw, Aust - Wed 30th June 2010 12:29pm (GMT)

Subject : Re : Tired Terrano II 2.7TDi Engine I suggest getting the price of a low kms replacement engine as a baseline figure. Then go through the list of what you want to do and price that out. If you are doing everything yourself in regards to labour, it might be close as to which would be cheaper. If you get it overhauled by a shop, you better have a rock-solid quote from a good operator. If you replaced the engine, you can take your time "doing up" the original engine. This "time" includes sussing out the best places to do the overhauls /parts and you would still be able to use the vehicle. You could then place the original engine (overhauled) back in the vehicle and on-sell the replacement. Just my 2c worth.... John Christchurch, NZ - Wed 30th June 2010 01:30pm (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : Tired Terrano II 2.7TDi Engine Thanks or reply. Will check low km second hand prices. Andrew Syd, nsw, Aust - Thu 01st July 2010 03:31pm (GMT)

Subject : Terrano II 2.7TDi not starting. I need urgent help to diagnose a mysterious engine fault on my diesel. Vehicle: Nissan Terrano II 2.7TDi 1997 Background info: Saturday we worked on some steering components. This required removal of the battery. When this work was finished the battery was re-fitted and the car started fine. It was started another time during moving out of the driveway etc and started fine. Headed home later that night (half city driving half tollway driving). No problems, nothing out of the ordinary during trip home. Everything OK. Parked car as usual on fairly flat ground. Car would not start on Sunday morning. Starter works, engine turns over, but will not fire up. Still 3/4 tank of fuel, no visible leaks or puddles under car. I have tried again yesterday and today to get it to start. Things I checked: 1) Battery terminals – they should be fine as the starter was cranking normally, but I cleaned them and snugged them up again anyway, simply because the battery was removed on Saturday and I wanted to eliminate the only thing we touched. 2) Fuel. Bled system at fuel filter outlet and primed pump until it became hard to push. 3) Checked wires on diesel pump. A wire once came loose on the fuel cutoff solenoid but that is ok now. Cutoff solenoid receives 11.8V when key turned to ON, so it seems ok. 4) Glow plugs receive 12.4V with key turned to ON, switch off at normal time. Relay makes right noises etc - seems ok. 5) A new diesel pump, injectors, glow plugs etc etc were installed no more than 25-30K ago at huge expense. So I doubt it is a worn component in the fuel delivery. To re-iterate. The car was running perfectly fine, I parked it up as usual. Now the starter turns over, and everything seems ok - but it refuses to start. I know the Terrano II 2.7TDi is a bit of an orphan, but I’m throwing this out there hoping that one of the forum members has some experience or ideas that might help. Thanks for replies. Andrew Sydney, NSW, Australia - Tue 29th June 2010 06:27am (GMT)

Subject : Re : Terrano II 2.7TDi not starting. I would suspect that the immobiliser is doing it's job. You may have to reprogram the key fob and the alarm? John Christchurch, NZ - Tue 29th June 2010 09:41pm (GMT) Subject : Re : Terrano II 2.7TDi not starting. I checked previous posts here and found this The engine warning light acts as 2 warnings....if its on all the time there is a fault with the engine, however if its flashing it is a fault with the Alarm/immobiliser NATS ! usually if you take the keys out and lock the doors, unlock and try again it should go off. Hope this helps, look for flashing lights on the dash.... John Christchurch, NZ - Tue 29th June 2010 09:46pm (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : Terrano II 2.7TDi not starting. Thanks for the reply. The dash light doesn't flash. I haven't used the key fobs for last the 7 years - I use the ignition key to open AND start. I checked using both keys, and car still won't start. Will continue with fuel supply and glow plug investigation for now. Thanks again Andrew Sydney, nsw, Aust - Wed 30th June 2010 12:47am (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : Re : Terrano II 2.7TDi not starting. Feedback: Put new fuel filter on (was due anyway). Cracked injector line and have pressure. Removed intercooler and glowplug buzzbars. Checked continuity of Glowplugs (should be 0.5 Ohms). 2 glowplugs were open circuit. 1 was 1.5MegaOhms. 1 was 0.26MegaOhms... Have ordered 4 new glowplugs, part number CH162. Hope this will fix it. Andrew Syd, nsw, Aust - Wed 30th June 2010 06:43am (GMT) Subject : Re : Terrano II 2.7TDi not starting. This is the best description of a problem plus fault-finding I have ever seen. What has caused the glow plugs to fry in 25/30k? What brand were the replacement glowplugs? Did you have any problems with the thermostat keeping the engine too cool and thus allowing the glow plugs to stay on too long while the engine tried to reach 50C? Leading on from that, did you have problems with alternator/battery during this time as well? Good luck... John Christchurch, NZ - Wed 30th June 2010 09:26am (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : Terrano II 2.7TDi not starting. Thanks mate. Tried to be clear so others can use info too. Perhaps glow plugs weren't really changed at 273K, they all 'looked' different vintages (other work done at same time by workshop was also very lousy). Don't know of other problems that led to plug failure other than not truly being replaced. Although engine runs cool-ish, which is rare for T2's in Australia. Engine has done 306K and is a bit tired so perhaps soot build-up on plugs? Starter replaced at 250K. Battery only 2 years old - No problems (kept it jumpered to another vehicle during testing). Will start another thread about tired engine. Thanks again for your replies. Andrew Syd, nsw, Aust - Wed 30th June 2010 12:14pm (GMT)

Subject : Nissan Terrano 1990 3M 2.7 TD Workshop Manual Hi i was wondering if anyone could help me out with a workshop manual for a 1990 Nissan Terrano 3M 2.7 Td.A PDF version would be excellent. Thankyou for your time. Darren Darren Ringwood, victoria, Australia - Sun 27th June 2010 03:30am (GMT)

Subject : Re : Nissan Terrano 1990 3M 2.7 TD Workshop Manual Darren, have a look at this: http://arrc.epnet.com/autoapp/8671/8671.htm#8671R07_Free_Running_Hub.htm#T2 Hope it helps John Christchurch, NZ - Sun 27th June 2010 09:53pm (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : Nissan Terrano 1990 3M 2.7 TD Workshop Manual Thanks John but i really need manual for a diesel 2.7.But what you have sent me i can use for some other stuff so thanks for your help. Darren. Darren Ringwood, victoria, Australia - Mon 28th June 2010 10:42am (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : Re : Nissan Terrano 1990 3M 2.7 TD Workshop Manual It's either a good thing or a bad thing that there seems to be no manual for the TD27 available freely on the net. Good, because it's seldom needed; bad, because when you do need it it's hard to find. If you want to pay, there appear to be quite a few sites available for downloads. John Christchurch, NZ - Mon 28th June 2010 12:27pm (GMT) Subject : Re : Nissan Terrano 1990 3M 2.7 TD Workshop Manual try this one www.bebrs.pie-dabas.net/Webs/Terrano/R20/fa.pdf richard cain alfreton, derbyshire, UK - Wed 30th June 2010 02:38pm (GMT)

Subject : Fuse problem What fuse controls the power to the centre console and luggage 12v sockets on a Nissan terrano2 Geoff Hawkwell, Essex, UK - Tue 22nd June 2010 02:56pm (GMT)

Subject : Re : Fuse problem I presume you have blown the fuse and are trying to find which fuse has blown? Buy a cheap multi-meter. Set it on the 20 volt DC scale. Clamp the black probe to earth on a metal part of the vehicle.e.g. the door restraining strap (unpainted) metal. Turn the ignition to "ACC" and start probing the top and bottom of each of the fuses in the fuse box with the meter's red probe. There is a small exposed portion on the fuse head, top and bottom, just for this purpose. You will find one that doesn't have 12 volts running through it i.e. the bottom of the fuse has 12v, the top will have "0" . This is the blown fuse. Replace this fuse with one of the correct rating. The rating should be displayed on the lid of the fuse box. Even if you can't read Japanese, you can see the rating in amps there. Hope this helps. Don't believe the rating of the blown fuse..it may have been replaced by someone who did not have the correct rated fuse (or who did not care). Buy spare fuses, there should be replacement ones clipped on the inside of the fuse box cover anyway. Hope this helps John Christchurch, NZ - Sat 26th June 2010 04:54am (GMT)

Subject : airlock in water system i have a jap import nissan mistral 2.7 diesel automatic.i have just changed my radiator and thermostat but i now seem to have a massive airlock which is pushing the temp gage right up.does can anyone help in giving me advice on how to get the airlock out. thank you nikki northampton, northamptonshire, UK - Sat 19th June 2010 02:03pm (GMT)

Subject : Re : airlock in water system Let's analyse this: you just replaced your radiator and thermostat. Why? Did it overheat? If so, the probability is that the "huge air lock" is leaking combustion gases entering the cooling system through a warped head and a burst headgasket. Take it to a good radiator place or a garage with a tester. This tester sniffs the gases in the water of the radiator and confirms this situation. If you can see the water in the neck of the radiator bubbling and frothing at idle WHEN COLD, the head gasket would be almost a certainty. DO NOT TAKE THE CAP OFF THE RADIATOR WHEN HOT. The water (what's left) instantly turns to steam and blows out all over you, usually severely burning your skin. Or,as in my case, removing my mustache and eyebrows. Good luck John Christchurch, NZ - Sun 20th June 2010 05:48am (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : airlock in water system thank you for your advice i,m going to get a mechanic to have a look at the head gasket and see if i need to replace it. i.ve had nothing but problems since i brought the car 3 years ago but its such a lovely car to drive. nikki northampton, northamptonshire, UK - Sun 20th June 2010 01:20pm (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : Re : airlock in water system If you have the time, could you tell us about these problems? Usually the engines are extremely reliable, unless you run out of coolant, which is usually caused by old hoses, or a worn out water pump. If you tow a horse trailer or similar, and you have an auto trans and don't put an auxiliary transmission cooler inline with the one in the bottom of the radiator, that can cause overheating, too. If your mechanic finds head gasket problems, previous posts advise looking at replacing the engine rather than reconditioning it. Hope it doesn't come to that. John Christchurch, NZ - Mon 21st June 2010 01:45pm (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : Re : Re : airlock in water system hi i'm still waiting for someone to have a look at the head gasket hopefully he'll be here this week to have a look. we've changed the starter motor 3 times the alternator and the water pump thermostat and radiator in the last 18 months. hopefully this will be the last big thing that needs changing.!!!!! nikki northampton, n orthamptonshire, UK - Wed 30th June 2010 01:57pm (GMT)

Subject : 1991 Nissan Terrano td27 leaking oil, no power and smoking bad. I have a Nissan Terrano 1991 with a TD27 motor. Last week on a cross country trip I heard a sound similar to a small electric motor spinning out, it was at the front left of the car. Everytime I heard the sound it would lose power, then the sound would stop and I would have power again. After a while the sound stopped altogether but the car had NO power. I had huge amounts of white smoke blowing out the exhaust. I stopped, did a service on the car and drove it home- all I get was about 40kph in 2nd gear. Then after a while it was running fine again and I had a bit of power. Now there is little power, it is still smoking badly and alternates between dark and light smoke. Also the oil I put in last week is black already. Any ideas, I would really appreciate some help. Marius Narobi, Kenya - Tue 15th June 2010 05:25pm (GMT)

Subject : Re : 1991 Nissan Terrano td27 leaking oil, no power and smoking bad. I think the colour of the oil is the least of your problems. Oil goes dark very quickly in this diesel. That's good, because it shows the oil is doing it's job and picking up the crap in the engine, holding it in the oil until it gets filtered out by the filter. I take it that the electric motor sound came from the left side of the vehicle as you sit in the drivers seat? Sounds like the turbo is not going too well. Could be partially seizing when hot. Try to get a pressure guage reading of the turbo boost when driving, and watch for spikes and dips in pressure. Should be up to 13lbs sq inch, and relatively steady. Otherwise check that the air intakes into and from the filter are not blocked or collapsed, and that the filter itself has not collapsed. Good luck, let us know how you got on. John Christchurch, NZ - Wed 16th June 2010 08:08am (GMT)

Subject : IDLE PROBLEM ON HARDBODY 3.0TD I hava a Nissan Hardbody 3.0TD. Suppose to idle at +/- 800 rpm.Idle speed increase to +/-1200 rpm when in Neutral gear. Drops to +/- 800rpm when shifted into any gear ( 1st to 5th ) Pieter Botha Middelburg, Mpumalanga, South Africa - Fri 11th June 2010 07:34pm (GMT)

Subject : Re : IDLE PROBLEM ON HARDBODY 3.0TD I presume you have a manual gearbox. Does the idle change immediately you put your foot on the clutch, or after you have selected the gear, but before you lift your foot off the clutch? If you have an automatic the neutral speed should be around 750rpm, if any gear is selected, around 700 rpm. Has this problem arisen: after maintenance, over a short time/long time, after going through deep water after some trauma or other? How many kms are on the clock? Have you ever cleaned the MAF sensor? John Christchurch, NZ - Sat 12th June 2010 06:21am (GMT)

Subject : Nissan terrano II ABS breaking problem I have a 1999 Nissan terran II se and it has developed an intermittant fault of a clicking/ticking noise whilst driving under the bonnet area and when the break pedal is pressed whilst the noise is present it judders/shoudders as though it is vibrating and it breaks at a slower pace and then grinds when it stops. could it need a new ABS pump my mechanic is about to change a CV joint and says this could be the cause of the ABS fault? helen grafton oldham, lancashire, UK - Wed 26th May 2010 07:14pm (GMT)

Subject : Re : Nissan terrano II ABS breaking problem Read through previous posts. There is mention of a couple of problems, including a pink wire from the ABS sensor in the harness going to the firewall which breaks and upsets the ABS, but that should show on the dash with "ABS" light coming on. Does the clicking noise occur only when turning left or right? Then it could be a CV. When your mechanic is checking out the CV, he will also look at the brakes, ABS sensors etc. Tell him to be careful re the ABS sensor;previous post refers re sender wire coming apart when handled roughly. Hope this helps. John Christchurch, NZ - Thu 27th May 2010 08:45am (GMT) Subject : Re : Nissan terrano II ABS breaking problem Previous post may help... * Subject : Re : Re : Nissan Mistral Brake problems Hi, I fixed the braking problem without any expense (so far). It was tiny metal grit and dirt stuck to the right abs sensor. After thoroughly cleaning the sensor with a rag and blowing out any loose girt from the gear housing with compressor the brakes work mormal! The metal grit on the sensor gave a false reading of the speed of the wheel (at low speeds), the abs valve would open to release the pressure to the brakes, therefore the grauching noise and bake pedal becoming tough. Cheers David Blundell Franklin, Auckland, NI, NZ - Thu 18th June 2009 09:40pm (GMT) John - nz - Fri 28th May 2010 06:03am (GMT)

Subject : Clutch Hi. I am trying to find out If the cluthes Will Fit the Earlier 2.4 Terrano 1993 Petrol ( Mk.1 ) AND the Later 2.4 Terrano 1998 Petrol ( MK.11 )I Know the earlier Clutch Plate Is 240 mm on the Earlier model and the later Clutch plate Is 242mm On the later model Is this the Only Difference ??? If so surely they are inter changeable ? I hope Some one has the answer Thanks Regards Pat Ivis My Telephone number is 01407 832382 Pat Ivis Amlwch, Gwynedd, UK - Mon 24th May 2010 12:20pm (GMT)

Subject : Christian, good luck Christian, I think you will find your problems solved after that. Today's vehicles with lots of electronic gadgetry can be both easier to fix (because the electronic brain "remembers" what is wrong and tells you) and more difficult (because you usually need a specific electronic part to fix it) You used to be able to "bodge" a fix, now you can't. A good modern mechanic has the training and tools to recognise the faults presented to him by the computer, then he replaces the faulty part, and hopes the fault is not in the wiring itself. - UK - Sat 22nd May 2010 01:17am (GMT)

Subject : Re : Christian, good luck Thanks for that its made me more positive about the problem its going in the garage tommor so will let you know if the problem is then sorted. I do like the terrano its a great car i use it to go camping so i get in some very good spots with the 4x4. christian great harwood, UK - Sun 23rd May 2010 11:00am (GMT) Subject : Re : Christian, good luck Christian, please let us know how you get on with this. it is a problem that i have for a while now and no one seems to know how to fix if. does you check engine light flash just before this happens? Roland portsmouth, UK - Wed 26th May 2010 03:36pm (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : Christian, good luck It is def the crankshaft sensor not got it done yet due to it costing 250 pound i can live with the problem for the time being christian blackburn, UK - Sun 04th July 2010 04:39pm (GMT)

Subject : nissan mistral stopping Hi there john from NZ i come on a few months ago asking for advice on my p reg 2-7 td it kept stopping in the middle of me driving it it is just cutting out at any given moment. Or having power surges pushing the car forward not good when your in the drivers seat. Any way i changed the earth cable and got it fully serviced and it still did not solve the problem. so i have had an auto electrican up today he hooked it up to the machine and it come up with crankshaft sensor he cleared it and reset the thing and started car up and it came back so looks like i need a new crank shaft sensor. Which is next on my list i will let you no how i get on if it keeps doing the stopping shit after that i am going to beat the hell out it with a stick the stupid pile of shit before i crush the dam pain of my life... christian great harwood, UK - Thu 20th May 2010 04:06pm (GMT)

Subject : Nissan terrano TD 27 I have a Nissan terrano TD 27 engine of 1991 very strong car ever seen, But I have experienced some oil leaks at the exhaust inlets,an air inlet pipes from the turbo release some oil particles,one mechanic told me,the oil leaks is from the turbo:Please any one to help me solve the problem will be thanked. Leo Lyayuka Dar es Salaam, N/A, Tanzania - Thu 20th May 2010 07:34am (GMT)

Subject : Re : Nissan terrano TD 27 If you do not have to top up the oil between oil changes, the leakage is probably blow by and oil vapour from the crankcase. This feeds into the turbo from the top of the rocker cover into the air intake tubing after the air filter, just before the turbo. This oil vapour goes through the turbo and then coats the inside of the piping going over the top of the engine. It usually leaks out from both ends of the rubber tubes that connect the pipe which has "Turbo" cast on it. You can make yourself a "catch can" to trap this vapour, but it's not going to harm anything until the engine is really old and worn out, when it is possible that the oil vapour may be enough to let the diesel run without fuel from the injectors. Thsi can lead to a "runaway engine" the only way to stop it being to cut off the air going into the engine. DO NOT USE YOUR HANDS to do this. Again, if you do not have to top up the oil between 5,000km oil changes, it is only a small amount of oil vapour, not a stuffed turbo. UK - Thu 20th May 2010 10:15am (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : Nissan terrano TD 27 Thank you very much for your comments,now I know the cause of such leakages: I do not top up any sigle drop of oil for the 5000 range of Kms. For this matter then my engine is still ok; Leo Lyayuka Dar es Salaam, Tanzania - Thu 20th May 2010 11:04am (GMT)

Subject : ford maverick cutting out I Have a Ford Maverick 4x4 2.7 turbo diesel and the fault on it is intermitant. The engine turns over fine a will rev fine, but after roughly 25-30 seconds it cuts out as if it has been turned off at the ignition. It doesnt matter whether it has just been idleing or if i have been reving it, it still cuts out the same. I have been through everything. The air intake is fine, fuel intake and piping is fine, turbo works fine and changed the fuel cut off at the top of the F.I.P but non of this helps. I was wondering if anyone could shine some light on the matter, whether it be the ECU or something else I have overlooked. I was also wondering if anyone knows where the ECU is situated? daniel abingdon, oxford, UK - Sat 15th May 2010 06:24pm (GMT)

Subject : Re : ford maverick cutting out Three thoughts: The ignition IS turning itself off and activating the cut off solenoid on the fuel pump.The engine is starving of fuel for some reason (as above, since that is the way to switch off a diesel, by cutting the fuel through the cut off solenoid, or perhaps not the solenoid itself,(which you have replaced) maybe faulty ignition switch or relay to it? This would also tend to rule out fuel delivery problems since revving the engine should make the fuel run out quicker = less run time? If this happens from stone cold, the glowplugs may be cutting out with a bad relay, they stay on until the engine reaches 50 degrees C Check this by clipping on a jumper lead to the positive terminal of the battery to the glowplug rail and see if the engine runs longer than 30 seconds. Is there any smoke from the tailpipe before it cuts out? White smoke usually means water being combusted, either in the fuel, or a head gasket blown. But normally if head gasket you should be having trouble starting. Can you restart the engine straight away, only for it to die in 30 seconds? Then it's most likely an electrical problem. Hope this helps. John Christchurch, NZ - Sat 15th May 2010 11:20pm (GMT)

Subject : My 1995 Mistral has always run very cool for round town running, currently the gauge rarely gets to register anything much of a temperature (2mm raise at best) but the heater works fine and temperatures seem normal on motorway running. Should I be looking at a new thermostat? Grahame Cattermole - UK - Thu 13th May 2010 04:11am (GMT)

Subject : Re : You could try one of two things: a new thermostat, or a new temperature sensor. Thermostat would be easiest. There is an original Nissan thermostat which appears to open further than a thermostat bought at a factors. You may wish to buy one from a factor, and take it along to compare to the OEM part before deciding. The sender may be getting old, and therefore should be replaced, or you could squirt the connector with electronic parts cleaner to make sure the is good connectivity, and an accurate temp guage reading. Hope this helps John Christchurch, NZ - Thu 13th May 2010 11:55am (GMT)

Subject : torque settings on Nissan Terrano sport can any one help me with the torque settings on the thermostat housing on my nissan terrano sport 2001 Becky spinner Briighton, West Sussex, UK - Tue 11th May 2010 02:29pm (GMT)

Subject : Re : torque settings on Nissan Terrano sport Frankly, it's not critical. I presume you have a gasket between the surfaces, so just tighten down the nuts until they feel reasonably tight, keeping in mind you do not want to distort the alloy housing. The gasket will do the sealing. Hope this helps. John Christchurch, NZ - Tue 11th May 2010 11:14pm (GMT)

Subject : nissan mistral hi i have nissan mistral 1994 2.7 turbo car will not go over 2000 rpm its had new turbo new water pump this makes going up hill a very hard job as it drops to 30 mph and just will not change up even on a very small hill can any one help let me know if they have had the same falt paul jarrow, tyne&wear, UK - Sun 09th May 2010 03:41pm (GMT)

Subject : Re : nissan mistral Did the engine rev over 2000 before the work on the turbo/and/or the water pump? If it did, then whoever has done the job hasn't done it properly and you should take it back to them to fix. Check for loose or broken rubber tubing leading to and from the turbo and the ducting coming and going from it. The engine is not getting the signal to rev higher. Check fuel delivery and replace fuel filter. See previous posts re these problems. hope this helps. John Christchurch, NZ - Mon 10th May 2010 02:20am (GMT)

Subject : tyre pressure nissan terrano 11 1997 hi,can anybody enlighten me as to what psi i should be using.tyre sizes are 235/75/15.many thanks,mark MARK mk, bucks, UK - Sat 08th May 2010 08:17pm (GMT)

Subject : Re : tyre pressure Read the sidewall, it should tell you max load inflation psi. This is the highest COLD setting you want. Max load psi is for, wait for it, maximum load carrying capacity, meaning your truck almost sitting on the bumpstops with junk in the back/ trailer towing. You're going to want to experiment with pressures, seeing what you like as far as ride quality, contact patch, noise level and wear. If you can visibly see a crown to the tread, lower the pressure til it goes away. A good way to check for proper pressure is take some chalk or a tire marker(grease pencil), draw a line across the tread, drive in a straight line for 100 feet and then check the line. If it's evenly wiped off, psi should be good. If it's gone in the middle, psi is to high. Gone on the outside edges only, psi is too low. All this depends on vehicle weight, driving style, driving type(high speed, city, gnarly rock), and your preference. There is no easy answer, enjoy experimenting. Perhaps start with 30psi all round, and work from there. Hope this helps. UK - Sun 09th May 2010 12:08am (GMT)

Subject : Petrol in the diesel tank Hi, my wife, bless her, on returning home to work put 10 quids worth of petrol in the 1993 Nissan Terrano 2.7td fuel tank, which was nearly empty, she then drove 6 miles home. Next morning no start, ive drained the fuel tank pumped diesel through the fuel filter. It still wont start, ive been told i have to bleed the fuel line at the injectors is this the case and any tips on doing it would be appreciated miffed - Cornwall, UK - Mon 03rd May 2010 11:09am (GMT)

Subject : Re : Petrol in the diesel tank You may wish to confer with a good diesel mechanic before doing any of this. You've drained the fuel tank and sucked diesel through to the fuel filter. Replace the fuel filter before you do anything else, otherwise you are pumping diesel plus petrol from the polluted filter through the injection pump, injector lines, and the injectors. Now trace the fuel line where it enters the injector pump. There is a banjo bolt there, undo it (17mm, awkward to undo) don't lose the two copper washers, one each side of the connection. Pump diesel through from the new filter until it comes out clean. Replace banjo bolt fitting. Don't forget the copper washers, one each side of the connection. Disconnect the injector lines where they enter the injectors. Place cloths in plastic bags over the injector lines and turn over the motor until fresh diesel comes out. I take it that the vehicle has an auto trans? It may take a bit of cranking over to flush it out. Don't crank too long, don't overheat the starter motor.Do it in bursts. Some say you can run a diesel engine by squirting WD40 into the air intake. It will only run while you squirt WD40 (if the injectors are not connected.) Cut off the WD40, the engine stops. May be worth a try in desperation if your battery is knackered. When you have clean diesel at the injectors, reconnect the lines and try again. Be careful clean up all the spilled fuel and the engine bay before you start the engine and driving anywhere. Good luck, hope this helps. John Christchurch, NZ - Tue 04th May 2010 01:59am (GMT) Subject : Re : Petrol in the diesel tank My wife also did this but noticed when she went and paid . and it was over $100 . hope you get your terrano going . good luck steve ashburton, nz - Tue 04th May 2010 06:23am (GMT)

Subject : 1999 Terrano R3M -X Hi all I have just purchased a Terrano R3M X on top of the dashboard in the middle is a lift up lid underneath is a plate with a small rubber wheel any ideas what this is meant to house ? Cheers Vaughan Clarke Featherston, Wairarapa, NZ - Sat 01st May 2010 08:39am (GMT)

Subject : Re : 1999 Terrano R3M -X A "Kentucky Fried" box? John Christchurch, NZ - Sat 01st May 2010 11:49am (GMT)

Subject : 97 terrano fuel gauge fuel gauge has suddenly stopped working.checked all fuses and all ok.any one got any ideas as to what the problem could be.many thanks.mark. mark milton keynes, bucks, UK - Fri 30th April 2010 10:41pm (GMT)

Subject : Re : 97 terrano fuel gauge Sorry, but I think this link may be the answer. http://www.bba-reman.com/content.aspx?content=Nissan_Terrano_cluster_failing It doesn't help that you are not in USA, but they may do exchange units or if you contact them, may be able to assist with a repair facility in the UK. Hope this helps. John Christchurch, NZ - Fri 30th April 2010 10:48pm (GMT)

Subject : Nissan Mistral N Reg Question. Hi there, I have just bought an N Reg Nissan Mistral. PLEASE can somebody tell me what the red button is for on the automatic gear stick. Many thanks, would love to know asap. :) Sarah Yeovil, SOMERSET, UK - Fri 30th April 2010 09:20am (GMT)

Subject : Re : Nissan Mistral N Reg Question. Is your model the one they prepared for the Bond movie, (the ejector seat?) I think you will find it is the emergency release to allow you to move the gear selector without the key in the ignition or your foot on the brake. Not to be used on sloping drives etc because you have no steering control and very hard to activate brakes. But if it's in the garage and the garage catches fire, just push the button, slip it into neutral and push it out. Hope this helps John Christchurch, NZ - Fri 30th April 2010 11:26am (GMT)

Subject : oil leak Can anyone tell me why oil is spurting from the breather valve from Rear wheeled differential gearbox on my 1996 nissan terrano G3MR model. frank Hoy Christchurch, new zealand, new zealand - Thu 29th April 2010 11:33pm (GMT)

Subject : Re : oil leak Have you been in deep water? The diff may have filled up with water, when you drive it will heat the water, then it will spurt out through that breather. Best to drain what is in there, and replace. Check that you use Limited slip lube, something like Penrite Limslip 80w-140 Check your breather works by rotating the cap and seeing it lifts and settles properly (it sounds like it's working if it allows the fluids to spurt out. It is also where the water went in. Hope this helps. John Christchurch, NZ - Fri 30th April 2010 04:32am (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : oil leak Many thanks John. No I havent been in water,but im going to get the oil replaced as you suggest.Youve been a great help fRANK Frank Hoy Christchurch, NZ, UK - Fri 30th April 2010 04:44am (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : Re : oil leak You'll need about 2.8 litres for the rear axle, and while you are doing it, do the front one as well. You can use the LSD oil in the front without harm. While you are there, think about replacing the transfer case fluid which is Dexron 3. If you get into the swing of things, and you haven't done so recently, suggest a fluid and filter change of the auto as well. That I leave to Automan Automatics in CHCH, about $320 for converter flush plus above fluid and filter, plus function check etc. As opposed to $3000 for a rebuild of the auto. For diagrams of where to find the bungs refer http://arrc.epnet.com/autoapp/8671/8671.htm#8671R07_Free_Running_Hub.htm#T2 Hope this helps John Christchurch, NZ - Fri 30th April 2010 04:59am (GMT)

Subject : Information about A/T Power or Hold in nissan terrano i am from mozambique. i have a nissan terrano r3m. i need a help. whem can i use a function A/T Power or Hold. bests regards. milton, mozambique Milton Alfai maputo, maputo, Mozambique - Thu 29th April 2010 09:50pm (GMT)

Subject : Re : Information about A/T Power or Hold in nissan terrano Previous postings on this thread have explained this but here it is again. POWER: use this to make the engine rev higher before changing into the next gear. It won't turn your diesel into a sports car. It will use more fuel, and the gear shifts sometimes feel rougher. Best used when driving up long slopes where the transmission usually changes up and down ("hunts") between gears. POWER will make it stay in the lower gear for longer. HOLD: the transmission pattern will hold in a higher gear for longer (in "D") and only select 2nd gear with the shift lever in "2" This is useful when driving in slippery conditions. Hope this helps. John Christchurch, NZ - Fri 30th April 2010 04:44am (GMT)

Subject : d21 pickup hi can any one tell me if d22 anti roll bar bushes will fit a d21 thanks in advance peter peter bailey albi, tarn, france - Wed 28th April 2010 07:35am (GMT)

Subject : Re : d21 pickup Can't help directly with your query, but having just replaced all those bushes on my D21,suggest you take a set of calipers and measure the size of the anti roll bar. There are about 3 different diameters. Once you know this, any spare parts place can assist with bar to chassis D shaped polyurethane bushes. You will probably find the old ones ruined by wear and tear, and oil having dripped on them. The bushes for the ends of the anti roll bar can usually be obtained from the same places, they are standard for lots of vehicles, and I suggest poly for them as well. 30 minutes work should see it all done. Hope this helps. John Christchurch, NZ - Fri 30th April 2010 04:50am (GMT)

Subject : nissan teranno starting problems I have a 1992 nissan teranno 2.7dt just the other day i went to start it,but wouldnt start,did the usual glowing etc dash lights would come on etc but when you went to start it just wouldnt start,it would turn the starter motor for about 1second and cut out also made a chicking noise under dash where fuses are,have taken batts out and recharge over night going to check earthing and clean connectors if this doesnt work any suggestion please? cheers scottie timaru, new zealand - Sat 24th April 2010 11:43pm (GMT)

Subject : Re : nissan teranno starting problems Sounds like a dying battery, the clicking could be the solenoid on the starter not getting enough voltage to engage the starter properly. Have the battery tested by a mechanic you trust and be prepared to buy a large and expensive battery, the biggest you can fit into the space available. The bigger the battery, the less effect starting a diesel has on it, and the longer it takes until you have to replace it again. Seven years is not an unreasonable life for a large truck battery starting a 2.7litre diesel. How long has this one lasted? Also check the output of the alternator as they can overcharge as well as undercharge a battery. Good move re cleaning the connections,battery terminals and earthing points. Hope this helps. John Christchurch, NZ - Sun 25th April 2010 08:18am (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : nissan teranno starting problems Thanks for your reply john ive cleaned connectors terminals checked earthing,had batteries charging over nite re connected and she started 1st pop scottie timaru, nz - Sun 25th April 2010 08:28am (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : Re : nissan teranno starting problems Good news! Now check the alternator output just in case. If it's a Hitachi alternator, the diode pack gives trouble, and by far the best fix is a rebuild (about$320 inc GST by Burnside Electrical CHCH) That way the wiring is not a hassle (don't ask me how I know.) John Christchurch, NZ - Sun 25th April 2010 09:28am (GMT) Subject : Re : nissan teranno starting problems I am a great fan of the gel cell spiral cell bastteries. I have used optima batteries for the last 25 years on various vehicles. They are physically smaller than standard batteries, provide up to twice the capacity and last 10 to 15 years. they are twice the price initially but worth it in the long run. Grahame Dunedin, New Zealand - Sun 02nd May 2010 12:59am (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : nissan teranno starting problems Good to know what I will be changing to next time,thanks! John Christchurch, NZ - Sun 02nd May 2010 12:12pm (GMT)

Subject : WD21 electronic manual Use this link: http://arrc.epnet.com/autoapp/8671/8671.htm#8671R07_Free_Running_Hub.htm#T2 hit "enter" twice and it will bring up a page. At the top right of the page it has "show" Hit "show", and it will bring up all the contents for WD21 (American) models. This assists greatly re everything except the TD2.7 engine. Hope this helps. John Christchurch, NZ - Sat 24th April 2010 10:33am (GMT)

Subject : engine check light I have 1996 terrano 2.7 td auto. every now and again after driving a short distance i am getting the orange engine check light on the dash followed by a bad shuddering when trying to acclerate.It is always fine after turning engine off and restarting. Any ideas what the problem may be? keith meakin wellington, nz - Sat 24th April 2010 01:20am (GMT)

Subject : Re : engine check light Keith, read the previous posts re electrical problems with the Terrano around 96-97. Each time you restart the engine, you reboot the computer, which makes the fault go away, until it reapears. My advice is to bolt a wire capable of taking at least 10 amps between a bolt on the engine and a bolt on the firewall to establish a good earth between engine and body. If this makes a difference, then clean and re-bolt the earthing straps from the engine and trans to the body. If it doesn't make a difference have the computer scanned for the faults. It could be the lift sensor on the No.1 injector, or the fuel solenoid on the injector pump. It may be the MAF sensor. See previous posts. Hope this helps. Please tell us how you get on.Thanks. John Christchurch, NZ - Sat 24th April 2010 05:27am (GMT) Subject : Re : engine check light i would check your throttle position sensor (TPS) from what ive read looking at posts on forums looking for my problem i would say theres a good chance it might be that. ronald cox birmingham, west midlands, UK - Sun 25th April 2010 02:47pm (GMT)

Subject : nissan mistral wont go into third gear auto box i have a nissan mistral r20 2.7td 1994 L reg when driving it goes from 1st to 2nd but wont go into third when u rev it to go into third it just revs high and wont change HELP Thanks ronald cox birmingham, west midlands, UK - Mon 19th April 2010 08:38pm (GMT)

Subject : Re : nissan mistral wont go into third gear auto box Start with the easy things first; change the transmission fluid and the filter to see if any dirt etc can be dislodged or eliminated. What symptoms led up to this situation? John Christchurch, NZ - Tue 20th April 2010 05:45am (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : nissan mistral wont go into third gear auto box thks 4 ur reply it started off taking ages to change gear now wont go into third. how much oil do i put back in and also could it be the torque converter or the TPS sensor if it has one. im tackling it in about 4 hours time thks 4 ur help. ronald cox birmingham, west midlands, UK - Tue 20th April 2010 06:03am (GMT) Subject : Re : nissan mistral wont go into third gear auto box You really want to take the sump off the auto, replace the filter, clean the pan, refill to the correct level, and then pour more in via the hose from the trans to the radiator cooler with the engine running and going through the gears with the selector, while allowing the fluid from the trans to pump into a bucket, thereby replacing the fluid in the torque converter as well and flushing out all the old fluid. j - nz - Tue 20th April 2010 10:50am (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : nissan mistral wont go into third gear auto box Do you have prior experience, or a manual,(you can Google a video on changing filter and fluid, done by a American, if he can, you can!) or the filter, and at least 11 litres of Dexron3 or equivalent auto trans fluid, plus a hose to connect the trans output pipe into a bucket, and another hose and connector to connect up the input hose into the radiator cooler? You will be pouring 5 litres through a small hose using gravity (unless you have a pump?) j nz - Tue 20th April 2010 10:52am (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : Re : nissan mistral wont go into third gear auto box thks for ur replys i have changed the oil and filter in the box and i am still havin problems changing from d2 to d3 when attempting to change to d3 it just revs up high could it be to torque converter or the throttle position sensor if a 1994 nissan mistral has one if so where is it thks for ur help and replys ronald cox birmingham, west midlands, UK - Fri 23rd April 2010 02:52pm (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : Re : Re : nissan mistral wont go into third gear auto box Another thing to check, there is a rocker switch in the center console labeled A/T with POWER at the top and HOLD at the bottom. Normally this switch will be in the middle, power and hold alter the transmission shift points - power shifts down sooner - hold will hold in the gear longer. Is this switch in the HOLD position? Also these transmissions will limit to 3rd gear in cold weather, until they warm up (about 3 minutes) and then will not change into fifth (Overdrive) until they have further warmed up (about 7 minutes) this is normal for these transmissions. Have a look at this thread as well re TPS/speed sensor http://forums.nicoclub.com/94-240-conv-with-at-shift-problems-t96505.html John Christchurch, NZ - Sat 24th April 2010 08:02am (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : Re : Re : Re : nissan mistral wont go into third gear auto box thks for the help my switch is in the middle position and i have been out driving for longer then the time you stated and the engine is still racing away rather than chage gear.ive read the posts on the link you posted and most say to disconnect the throttle position sensor or the revolution sensor but for the life of me i cant seem to locate these on my nissan 1994 mistral does any one know where they am pics would be ever so helpfull. HELP Thks. ronald cox birmingham, west midlands, UK - Sun 25th April 2010 01:12am (GMT)

Subject : front dics replace hello i have read on here that people have replaced front discs i have a terrano 1996 model 2.7td and need to replace my front discs can anybody tell me how to go about this i would be very grateful as i need to do this at the weekend as my brakes are metal to metal regards richard cain richard cain alfreton, UK - Wed 14th April 2010 06:56pm (GMT)

Subject : Re : front dics replace http://arrc.epnet.com/autoapp/8671/8671R07_Free_Running_Hub.htm#T2 Hope this helps Good luck. John Christchurch, NZ - Thu 15th April 2010 04:46am (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : front dics replace thankyou for your time in replying but i could not open the link but have found this one which others might be intrested in www.bebrs.pie-dabas.net/Webs/Terrano/R20/fa.pdf richard cain alfreton, UK - Fri 16th April 2010 07:06am (GMT)

Subject : Doors Lock Unaided. Nissan Terrano 11 SE 2.7 TDi (1997). Hi, can anyone help recify this strange problem ? The central locking activates intrmittantly - unaided, sometimes with the key in the ignition, other times when the car is left open I return to find it locked.I now have to remember to keep a spare key with me at all times ! Ian Warner stafford, UK - Wed 14th April 2010 02:30pm (GMT)

Subject : Re : Doors Lock Unaided. You have an electrical problem; but it's only a problem until you can find out what is causing it. Start with making sure that the battery terminals are clean and corrosion free. Then check the earth straps from the engine to the body are clean at both ends and that there is no corrosion under them. As a double check, run a wire between a bolt on the body and a bolt on the engine. Replace the batteries on the remote unless you have done that recently;check there is no corrosion of the terminals in the fob. After that you may need to reprogram the immobiliser and alarm system. Hope this helps. John Christchurch, NZ - Thu 15th April 2010 09:21am (GMT)

Subject : door wont open I have an 03 patrol with electric central locking. Today the drivers side door would not close. The catch in the door was going round and round instead of clicking into a closed position. Using the key did not make any difference - neither did slamming the door in frustration! The car was booked in for new tyres just after this happened, and when I picked the car up from having tyres fitted, the door won't open. Someone had more luck closing it than I did. Can you suggest a way to get the door open, please? dean hill karratha, wa, australia - Tue 06th April 2010 09:30am (GMT)

Subject : Nissan Mistral Cuts out Hello there, can anyone advise what this could be please? We have owned the 1995 Nissan Mistral (Auto, Diesel) for approx 5 months, it has been going fantastic up until the last month, I have had 4 incidents where whilst driving it just suddenly cuts out with no warning what so ever, completely dies, no lights, no indicators, no dash lights, no flipping steering! it is so random, it has happened while driving at 100kms on busy roads with trucks up my butt! where I have had to cruise off the road up a grass bank!, it has happened following a hearse at a funeral! and driving around a lake, so all different situations, The only lights that appear when it happens is a quick flash of the imobiliser lights on the dash which is why I am wondering if it is something to do with this? we will of course get this checked out, it has never done it while my partner drives it which isn't very often so when I explain to him what happens he claims I must be knocking the imobilser buttons on the keyring, but I know this is not the case. Thank you Debbie Hamilton, New Zealand - Mon 05th April 2010 08:54pm (GMT)

Subject : Re : Nissan Mistral Cuts out Replace the batteries in your key fob would be the first thing to do. John Christchurch, NZ - Mon 05th April 2010 10:43pm (GMT) Subject : Re : Nissan Mistral Cuts out What makes the vehicle come back to life? If you have to push the remote then it could be the immobiliser is crook, or as simple as a poor earth on the immobiliser. I would bypass the immobiliser as a temp measure to rule the immobiliser out first... Duncan Foster Auckland, NZ, NZ - Wed 07th April 2010 08:03am (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : Nissan Mistral Cuts out How do you buy pass the imobliser? How do you turn it off. christian lancashihre, UK - Wed 28th April 2010 01:42pm (GMT)

Subject : Check Engine Light Hi, I have a mistral/ Terrano 4x4 1997 2.7TD auto. My problem is the engine light appears and my abruptly switches off. I have notices before the car turns off the rev counter is not stable goes ups and down. My car is tuned at 700rpms on idle. The car runs perfectly when foot is on pedal however when on idle or foot on breaks the engine check light appears and car switches off...... Any help would be appreciated.......... Akhil Yusufali Dar es Salaam, Tanzania - Sat 03rd April 2010 05:01pm (GMT)

Subject : Re : Check Engine Light Try running a wire capable of taking a 10amp current between a bolt on the motor and a bolt on the firewall. American forums on Terrano/Pathfinder problems mention a problem with earthing to the motor; if this solution works you can have a bigger, more permanent grounding strap made up, or check or replace the existing groundstraps and earthing points. Also, 1997 models (especially the 3.2)appear to have a problem with the circuit board in the instrument panel the symptoms of which are erratic readings of the rev counter. See previous posts. Hope this helps. John Christchurch, NZ - Sat 03rd April 2010 11:03pm (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : Check Engine Light Thanks John will give your suggestion a try.............. Still worried though about why the car turns off. It just cuts off no funny noise from the engine the engine check light appears and then the revs are abnormal however not drastic they actually drop from 700rpm to engine cut off..... any ideas??? Akhil Yusufali Dar es Salaam, Tanzania - Sun 04th April 2010 07:45pm (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : Re : Check Engine Light I suspect that the symptoms indicate an electrical fault, most likely a bad earth between the engine with all it's electrical senders, and the body. Try the new ground first and see what happens. Previous posts with similar symptoms were fixed by this new ground wire. Hope this helps, please tell us if it did. John Christchurch, NZ - Thu 15th April 2010 04:53am (GMT)

Subject : Nissan Terrano 4WD warning light flashes My Terrano 4WD warnin g light flashes after driving for over 20min at 80 / 100km/hr and then once ive been stopped and restart the engine it does not flash again for some time. Does not seem to happen when driving around town .... lower speeds Please could anyone help me with this. Bryce Auckland, NZ - Sat 03rd April 2010 03:15am (GMT)

Subject : Re : Nissan Terrano 4WD warning light flashes Bryce, is the flashing light orange (as in "Check Engine" Best thing is to have the on board computer scanned for a fault code. Every time you switch the key off and then restart it is resetting the computer, wiping the trouble code. Then the fault reappears at speed and after time. Until you know what the computer is telling you, you can't start fixing it. John Christchurch, NZ - Sat 03rd April 2010 04:55am (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : Nissan Terrano 4WD warning light flashes Thanks for the advice... I was thinking about the diagnotic engine check but the orange light has 4WD written on it so thought that it may be isolated to that area. I guess it will show up on the diagnostics anyway. Thanks again for your help. bryce Auckland, New Zealand - Sat 03rd April 2010 06:31am (GMT) Subject : Re : Nissan Terrano 4WD warning light flashes the book says that if the 4wd light is flashing fast that the transfer box oil temp is to high , may be low on oil . If flashing slowly this means that tyre sizes may be different between the front and back . steve ashburton, nz - Mon 05th April 2010 11:43pm (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : Nissan Terrano 4WD warning light flashes Thanks for your reply ill check out the fluid levels first and see if that make a difference. Cheers Bryce auckland, new zealand - Tue 06th April 2010 10:07am (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : Nissan Terrano 4WD warning light flashes Hi I have a nissan terrano with exactly the same symptons Travel about 80 km 4WD light starts flashing The rear tyres are bigger Rolling radius than on front Front is 2285 The rear is 2320 Would this be enough to affect it And make light come on Darryl Pyke Timaru, Newzealand - Wed 07th April 2010 01:13am (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : Re : Nissan Terrano 4WD warning light flashes More than probably, see earlier posts below on different tyre sizes making the light flash. In your opinion, is the light flashing quickly or slowly? John Christchurch, NZ - Wed 07th April 2010 05:41am (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : Re : Nissan Terrano 4WD warning light flashes Our terran had 265/75-15 s on it when we got it . replaced them with 265/70-15s which I think is what they are supposed to have . There was a huge difference in size so check to see if you have some of each on your truck . steve ashburton, nz - Thu 08th April 2010 10:51am (GMT)

Subject : Help getting Cylinder head off! i am trying to changed my cylinder head gasket (2.7td) and have a terrano online manual which made it sound easier than in practice. however i cant get the head off. Do i remove the inlet manifold or do the fuel pipe come off if removed they are lossened at the injectors? do i remove the exhaust manifold or the turbo? i cant get my tools in anywhere to do both. I can tell its built by the Japs! small hands are needed! any CLEAR help would be good would be better if someone had colour photos of the process matt - UK - Sat 03rd April 2010 01:13am (GMT)

Subject : Re : Help getting Cylinder head off! Matt, once you have the head off, you will need to have it checked for warping and for cracking. See previous posts below. Frankly, if you are struggling now, what will it be like trying to put it together the right way, with the proper torque applied to the fasteners etc? I would counsel you to spend the money and get a mechanic to disassemble it. Tell him not to do anything until you have checked what it will cost, especially if it involves replacement of the head. READ THE PREVIOUS POSTINGS re head troubles. It is almost impossible to emphasize enough that once the engine has overheated you may have continuing problems with it. A second hand engine may be the way to go. I really hope this helps. John Christchurch, NZ - Sat 03rd April 2010 09:02am (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : Help getting Cylinder head off! no it doezs not help! that wasnt ther question i asked. Dont be so patronizing i have changed many head gaskets on other vehicles ford sierra, Citreon ax etc. i knoww about torqueing the bolts i am asking for the exact removal procedure as the manual is not clear! matt UK - Sat 03rd April 2010 11:11am (GMT)

Subject : Nissan Mistral 2.7td Hi,i have a 1996 Mistral,recently put back on the road after a year off.Started losing 4th gear intermittently (changing between 3rd and 4th)now wont select 4th at all..have checked the oil level (ok)and oil still quite clean.and help??Thanks. Darragh Dublin, Dublin, IRL - Fri 02nd April 2010 09:11pm (GMT)

Subject : Re : Nissan Mistral 2.7td Are we talking about a manual gearbox or an automatic? I presume it's an auto, and if so, have you ever changed the filter and the fluid? Leaving it standing for a year means everything has drained to the lowest level possible, and seals may also have dried out. All the dirt that was in suspension in the fluid has fallen out of suspension. When you started it up again, that dirt has redistributed itself. If it is old fluid, the properties which keep seals flexible may be somewhat depleted. Start with a full fluid and filter change. It's the cheapest and simplest possible remedy. Hope this helps. John Christchurch, NZ - Fri 02nd April 2010 09:55pm (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : Nissan Mistral 2.7td Thanks a mill,il give that a try.yep its an auto.couldnt see any fiter on the outside,i presume its an internal gause type in the sump? Darragh Dublin, Ireland - Fri 02nd April 2010 10:18pm (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : Re : Nissan Mistral 2.7td It's a little bit more than just gauze but you'll see when you take the pan off the transmission. Make sure the replacement filter is the right one. If you have never done this before, have a look on the internet there are some tutorials available, and if an American can do it, anyone can! John Christchurch, NZ - Fri 02nd April 2010 10:47pm (GMT)

Subject : mistral auto knocking hi i have a 95 mistral auto diesel when it is at low revs and leaning over to the right there is a loud knocking noise, when leaning to the left it is fine, a friend told me it was a rubber mount from under the gearbox that had fallen out, does this sound rite to you and does anyone know what the part is called and were I mite be able to get one. cheers chris kent, kent, UK - Fri 02nd April 2010 03:51pm (GMT)

Subject : Re : mistral auto knocking There are three mounts made of rubber and steel which allow the engine and gearbox some limited movement when accelerating and decelerating, and isolate the engine and gearbox noises and vibration from from the chassis, and the occupants. That is what they are called: engine mounts and gearbox mounts. They can be purchased from factors, wrecking yards, and, of course, dealers. They do wear out, usually causing s droning vibration in the cab. Falling out is another matter; usually they tear but they are bolted at both end. You state that the knocking noise happens when leaning over to the right at low revs. Are you turning sharp left at the same time 1.e. at full left lock? Are you going over bumps at the same time, making the front right suspension work hard? There are two metal stops on the bottom of the suspension arms and at full lock these can "knock" or graunch as the suspension moves. Crawl under the vehicle and put a dab of grease of these bits..they will be shiny from wear. Another possibility could be worn anti- roll bar bushes. Inspect the ones at the ends of the arms, and the ones attaching the bar to the chassis. If these are worn (and they probably will be) the bar is free to knock, steel against steel with the slightest bump. Then there are the shock absorbers, and their rubber bushes. Check for leaks, replace if more that 60,000km old and get gas filled replacements (and new bushes). Last of all, check the state of the wheel bearings and the CV joints. Wheel bearings usually rumble, CV joints click. Hope this helps UK - Fri 02nd April 2010 10:15pm (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : mistral auto knocking ok thanks i ll give it a go, just to confirm the knocking is at low revs usualy when im stationary turning left or right doesnt make a difference, its more to do with the camber of the road chris kent, kent, UK - Sat 03rd April 2010 10:02am (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : Re : mistral auto knocking Does the knocking noise increase and decrease speed with the rise and fall of the engine revs? I'm thinking of the power steering pump or it's drive belt? John Christchurch, NZ - Sun 04th April 2010 11:44am (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : Re : Re : mistral auto knocking no is the short answer as soon as i put the foot on the acelerator and the revs go up it stops, the lower the revs the louder the noise, after 1000 revs it stops chris kent, kent, UK - Tue 06th April 2010 10:03pm (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : Re : Re : Re : mistral auto knocking See if you can locate where this knocking noise is coming from. It is obviously dependent on the revs and one possible scenario is: Subject : Nissan mistral 2.7 D the bottom crank pulley is making a noise and moving in and out a little bit bryan auckland city, newzealand, newzealand - Fri 27th November 2009 07:07pm (GMT) * Subject : Re : nissan mistral 2.7 D Pulley is rubber mounted and is slipping by the sounds of it,happened to us, pulley will have to be replaced if it is neill Tauranga, nz - Tue 01st December 2009 05:08am (GMT) * Subject : Re : nissan mistral 2.7 D Hi, I had the same on my mistral. when it fails you will have no drive to any of the fan belts so replace it asap. The hardest part is getting the crankshaft pulley nut pf ( 40mm af) fix the socket onto a good tommy bar and give the ignition key a quick tweak and the bar bill catch the side of the inner wing ( which should be protected by a piece of timber) the woodruff key on the crank should be replaced at the same time because it will be worn. good luck Tom Tom Helsby liverpool, UK - Fri 01st January 2010 12:09pm (GMT) You should use a good torch and have someone rev the engine a little to observe the movement of the crankshaft pulley. Safest would be from under the vehicle by removing the shield. Hope this helps John Christchurch, NZ - Wed 07th April 2010 05:56am (GMT) Subject : Re : mistral auto knocking I am betting you have something similar to what I had going on with mysterious knocks etc, feel around your starter motor and see how close to the chassis it is, my right hand engine mount collapsed and engine dropped....knocking at idle though ok when moving, though cornering could get it to tap...and to further thrill you the access is up there with regards to needing the hands of a geisha to fit however it is doable, mostly through the inner guard, oh and check the starter motor bolts as that was the first indication I had where things were happening kiano place AK, NZ - Thu 08th April 2010 09:55am (GMT)

Subject : 4 wheel drive problems when engaging 4 wheel drive, all indications are that 4 wheel drive is engaged, but the front wheels wont lock, any advice please john orpington, kent, UK - Wed 31st March 2010 01:29pm (GMT)

Subject : Re : 4 wheel drive problems Look at previous posts. If you have automatic hubs, climb under the vehicle with the engine off, and twist the front driveshaft one way, then the other. In one direction the 2 front hubs should "click" and then the driveshaft will be unable to be turned any further by hand without moving the vehicle, thereby showing you that the hubs do work. When you twist the other way they will "click" and you can turn the shaft without a problem in that direction. If this doesn't happen, and you've never repacked the front wheel bearings or even looked inside or serviced the hubs, now is the time to do it. See previous posts on how to disassemble and reassemble the hubs. If the hubs work well,then you have to look at the transfer box/lever/turn the dial on the dash arrangement, and at that stage, you should go to an expert. John Christchurch, NZ - Wed 31st March 2010 02:55pm (GMT)

Subject : 4 wheel drive problems when engaging 4 wheel drive, all indications are that 4 wheel drive is engaged, but the front wheels wont lock, any advice please john orpington, kent, UK - Wed 31st March 2010 01:29pm (GMT)

Subject : ABS fault Just thought this might help somebody in the future so posting it. fault with abs. Scanner said fault with offside front sensor so after checking sensor had power down to it we fitted a new sensor but unfortunately still the same. The air gap is hard to measure on this model as you cannot see it so after checking that adjusted all the slack from the bearing and still no good. Problem turned out to be the main engine loom where it leaves the rocker cover and goes to the bulk head. A strange place to find an abs wire I know but it was broken right through and when the engine moved on setting off it broke the connection. This wire is pink in colour. Hope this helps somebody in the future. John Christchurch, NZ - Wed 31st March 2010 10:14am (GMT)

Subject : lumpy teranno My 1997 teranno 2.7 turbo diesel is very lumpy at low revs and behaves like a kangaroo in 4wd on rough tracks. It goes like a bird on the open road with plenty of power.It has 218000 on the clock burns no oil but is starting to blow a bit of black smoke. Any ideas would be most appreciated.cheers Laurie Laurie Cheshunt, Victoria, Australia - Mon 29th March 2010 05:44am (GMT)

Subject : Re : lumpy teranno If you have a MAF sensor that may need a clean. See previous posts for more clues, such as new fuel filter, new air filter etc. Hope this helps. John Christchurch, NZ - Mon 29th March 2010 07:31am (GMT)

Subject : terrano regulus hi,i have a 2000 terrano regulus 3.2TD Auto, JR50? (import).can anyone tell me if a starter motor from another nissan engine would fit mine.cant find parts anywhere in uk.the AA says mine is jammed. john mackie stenhousemuir, stirlingshire, UK - Mon 29th March 2010 12:59am (GMT)

Subject : Re : terrano regulus Have you taken the starter out of the truck, and taken it to an expert? It may have "jammed" but usually a service person can "unjam" it, clean and lubricate the starter, and it will work again. John Christchurch, NZ - Mon 29th March 2010 01:13am (GMT)

Subject : Nissan 2.7td Problems i have a Ford Maverick/(nissan terrano rebadged) everything was going well with it until the badwinter of Jan. i kept losing coolent and although temp increased i never let it go outside limits ,My water pump failed to which i changed. i still kept losing coolent and still had a temp problem. one day it was so high i knew it was still within limit and was a mile away from service station it cut out!. after roadside assitance from the RAC i got it going again and stil kept losing water. after a week of normal operation (topping up water every 100miles) i start losing power until i can only get 2000rpm solved this prob;em by removing the fuel pump filter. still kept losing water at an alarming rate and notice cooling system was pressurizing straight away! with what could be exhaust gasses. was told that cylinder head gasket possible gone. was going to change this when i found out exactly what my car was going to fail its mot on. now it wont start! just cluncks but all the lights still on the dash. i am pissed of with thease endless problem i need this sorted any clues? is this all related? it is a 1994 ford maverick 2.7td. i chose this car beacuase of the milage it still only has 81k even now and has a full FSH to back it. matt SN9 6EA, UK - Fri 26th March 2010 08:00pm (GMT)

Subject : Re : Nissan 2.7td Problems Matt, I think the motor is stuffed through overheating. Did you have anti freeze in the coolant before the temperature began to rise? It is possible for coolant to freeze, both in the radiator (and unfortunately) in the block if the coolant does not have enough antifreeze. When you start the very cold engine with bad coolant, the fan can draw freezing air through the radiator, and freeze the coolant in the tubes, blocking the radiator with ice. The reduced coolant flow then overheats the motor, even on a cold day. The temp guage on the Nissan is slow acting, and the clue was that it rose even in freezing conditions. The water pump failure may or may not have been related...what was the damage to it when you removed it? Was the impeller ruined or did the shaft bearings let go and it was just leaking? The clunk in your motor would be hydraulicing of the pistons. The coolant going past the headgasket (which fails very quickly when this motor overheats) fills the cylinders. Liquid is incompressible, so when you turn the starter motor and it tries to turn the engine, the pistons cannot go up and down. There are previous posts describing this. It's your choice but it will involve lots of money. The breakdown is not the fault of the vehicle, as there are hundreds of thousands of these engines in service throughout the world, and they don't have these problems. John Christchurch, NZ - Fri 26th March 2010 09:16pm (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : Nissan 2.7td Problems John Thanks for your reply. i did`nt say that the breakdowns where a design fault! but ironically thease problems all occured at ince. even my propshaft have started to go! anyhow problem with vehicle not starting a gave the BAT a good charge. i will endevor to sort theases other problems out as i cant afford another truck matt UK - Sat 27th March 2010 02:25pm (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : Re : Nissan 2.7td Problems Mat,, I know you don't want to hear this, but check your alternator output as this mileage could mean it is starting to give up as well..especially if it is a Hitachi brand alternator. They can be rebuilt, and I would suggest this is the cheapest course, as the vacuum pump for the brakes is on the back, which makes them "special" and expensive. Hope this helps. John Christchurch, NZ - Sat 27th March 2010 10:14pm (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : Re : Nissan 2.7td Problems Is my alternator on the way out? - BlackOnyx Hi, I believe this is a common problem. I'm on my third alternator and third battery! And there is NOTHING wrong with either of them. I have just today checked if the glow plugs were turning off, and hello! they are staying on! and sucking more juice than the alternator can supply. This can be easily checked - either with a multimeter at the glow plug rail, or multimeter or LED battery/alternator tester on the battery locate the 80amp fuse for the glow plugs and pull the fuse while the engine is running - my bet is the battery will instantly be charging normally, and show low volts when the fuse is reinserted. On my Terrano, the fuse box is half way between the battery and the fire-wall. The glow plug relay is between the battery and the fuse box - the relay clicks in and out with the fuse removal, which makes me suspect the glow plug controller. I haven't located the controller yet. The American workshop manual does not cover the diesel engine model. The Nissan diesel engine manual does not cover the electrics (glow plugs). If I can not locate or repair the glow plug controller, I will simply add a small electrical kit-set timer, at the fuse/relay, to turn of 15 to 30 seconds after the ignition is turned on. Hope this gives an answer to this frustrating (and expensive) problem. | Report message as offensive | Link Tue 21 Jul 2009 10:46 Back Top End Is my alternator on the way out? - BlackOnyx Hey, just an update! Did you hear the one about the Terrano with a charging problem? Just fix it by replacing the thermostat! Seriously - check your temperature gauge does it take ages for the needle to barely get off cold? (and is the heater useless?) The needle should get to just below half way in 2 or 3 minutes. If the thermostat is stuck open, then the engine does not get up to temperature. The glow plug control senses the engine temperature is cold, so the glow plugs stay on for an extended period of time (sometimes 10 to 15 minutes) - short trips particularly in winter, with more headlight driving - the alternator can't keep up with the current being drawn off and from time to time you will end up with a flat battery! A thermostat is cheap, and easy to replace (three bolts and about a half litre of coolant - I pumped the coolant from the top of the radiator, and didn't spill a drop when the thermostat housing was removed). Sure enough, as the engine temperature reached about 50C, the glow plugs turned off. CHANGE THE THERMOSTAT. Hope this helps John Christchurch, NZ - Wed 31st March 2010 10:57am (GMT)

Subject : nissan mistral where can i buy a brake master cylinder for my 1995 nissan mistral ? any help cheers mark guernsey, channel islands, UK - Thu 25th March 2010 02:16pm (GMT)

Subject : Re : nissan mistral Why do you need to buy a new brake cylinder? Has a brake expert examined it and told you it is at fault, and that he cannot overhaul it? John Christchurch, NZ - Fri 26th March 2010 03:19am (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : nissan mistral YES IT HAS BEEN CHECKED BY TECHNICIAN, DONT REALLY WANT KIT, BUT IF THAT IS ALL THAT IS AROUND THIS WILL DO. DO YOU KNOW WHERE I CAN GET A MASTER CYLINDER OR A REPAIR KIT, I HAVE LOOKED ON THE NET AND CANT FIND A MASTER OR KIT FOR MY VEHICLE, ALL THE ONES I FOUND ARE FOR A DIFFERENT SORT OF MASTER TO MINE, IT HAS THREE BRAKE PIPE OUTLETS ON THE RIGHT HAND SIDE AND A WIRING PLUG ON THE LEFT HAND SIDE ( LOOKING FROM THE FRONT OF THE VEHICLE TOWARDS THE CYLINDER ) THANKS FOR YOUR REPLY, HOPE YOU CAN HELP ME FURTHER CHEERS MARK MARK GUERNSEY, CHANNEL ISLANDS, UK - Wed 31st March 2010 09:49am (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : Re : nissan mistral Have you tried these guys? http://carparts.breakeryard.com/cheapcarspares/Brake-master-cylinder.aspx Depending on what is worn (and it's usually the seals) replacement seals will usually cure the problem. They don't have to be Nissan seals..just brake seals that fit and do the job. A lot of these seals are the same shape and size. Hope this helps, I know it can be frustrating living on an island. John Christchurch, NZ - Wed 31st March 2010 03:06pm (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : Re : Re : nissan mistral This site is in the US. http://sd.autohausaz.com/autohausaz/detailw.jsp?sid=tzz0k245n3k3vm55ri1wt055&partner=autohausaz&year=1995&make=67&model=6749~~~234~1727~~8@Pathfinder,%204WD&category=241658@Brake&part=241705@Brake%20Master%20Cylinder It also has seal kits, and more to the point, pictures of brake master cylinders. Can you see yours there? Might be cheaper postage for a kit than a master cylinder??? John Christchurch, NZ - Wed 31st March 2010 03:14pm (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : Re : Re : Re : nissan mistral Closer to home: http://www.partsgateway.co.uk/sitemap/nissan-4x4-parts.html John Christchurch, NZ - Wed 31st March 2010 03:17pm (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : Re : Re : Re : Re : nissan mistral cheers i will try them mark guernsey, ci, UK - Wed 31st March 2010 04:52pm (GMT)

Subject : terrano lack of power I have a 1999 terrano 2.7tdi that is suffering with a lack of power and white,ish smoke,if I disconnect the needle sensor wire from No 1 injector the problem improves but not cured,I think it may be a fault with the pump.Can anyone help. terry roberts bristol, UK - Wed 24th March 2010 08:45pm (GMT)

Subject : Re : terrano lack of power Look at the post below dated 11th March. Hope this helps. John Christchurch, NZ - Thu 25th March 2010 06:27am (GMT)

Subject : Want a good instruction on resetting your torsion bars to regain the height lost by old age? http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showtopic=17038 Hope this helps John Christchurch, NZ - Mon 22nd March 2010 12:38pm (GMT)

Subject : Biodiesel I understand that biodiesel is slightly more fuel efficient and very low on naughty emmissions (aren't all diesels) but a supplier has raised possible issues with suitability for certain engines. Does anyone know of issues with biodiesel and TD27 engines of advanced age. Mine is currently up to 270k Grahame Grahame Cattermole Dunedin, New Zealand - Thu 18th March 2010 02:55am (GMT)

Subject : Re : Biodiesel Just some of the references available on the WWW re the suitability of biodiesel in engines, old ones, new ones, marine etc. Looks like a 20 per cent (B20) mix is the way to to be on the safe side. The age of the design of the TD2.7 with it's prechamber should mean it is a better bet than the direct injection engines. http://www.habmigern2003.info/biogas/Biodiesel.html http://pubs.cas.psu.edu/FreePubs/pdfs/uc204.pdf http://www.cytoculture.com/Biodiesel%20Handbook.htm If you try it, tell us how it went,please. UK - Thu 18th March 2010 07:05am (GMT) Subject : Re : Biodiesel Biodiesel should be fine in your vehicle. For almost 2 years now we have using my homebrew B100 in a 92 Navara td27, 92 Patrol td42 and a 2000 Patrol td42. The first 2 vehicles have done over 400k and the last just over 300k. To date they have not had any fuel related problems. Chris Mears Tascott, NSW 2250, Australia - Mon 22nd March 2010 08:21am (GMT)

Subject : Terrano G3MR economy chip Any one know of an economy chip for my Terrano G3MR ? 3.2 engine, sweet as a nut, but sooo thirsty. Many thanks, happy to swap notes with other Terrano G3MR users. I know they are rare in the UK Richard Gloucester, UK - Sun 14th March 2010 06:21pm (GMT)

Subject : Re : Terrano G3MR economy chip Have a look at this site http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showtopic=5194 It details how to clean the MAF sensor. If you have one of these in your diesel truck (and you probably will have) have a go at cleaning it as per the instructions. The other things to look at are a new air filter, and an overhaul of the injectors. How many miles has it done, and what do you consider "thirsty"? See previous posts on fuel consumption obtained in real life. Hope this helps. John Christchurch, NZ - Tue 16th March 2010 12:31am (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : Terrano G3MR economy chip Thanks John for that reply and link. Mileage... about 20-23 MpG, which I guess is not bad for 114k miles. I have never had the impression that the engine is inefficient. I also have a VW sharan diesel with a chipped engine. on a long run at 50-60 mph I get 62 MpG put of it! That's an amazing figure for an old engine and a 7 seater. seems like the economy chip is doing a good job and I was hoping for a swimilar device for my nissan. Yes, I can find these chips for all the 'usual' nissans, but not for my G3Mr. Richard Gloucester, Glos, UK - Tue 16th March 2010 08:20am (GMT) Subject : Re : Terrano G3MR economy chip yes the 3.2 is a thirsty engine . john is right about mass air flow sensor being a problem . we got around 100km more out of a tank after replacing maf. getting around 550 km of a tank which is still pretty ordanary . otherwise been great truck steve Ashburton, nz - Tue 16th March 2010 07:43am (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : Terrano G3MR economy chip Thanks Steve, I'll check that out, for sure it's not been attended to for some time. Richard Gloucester, Glos, UK - Tue 16th March 2010 08:23am (GMT)

Subject : Needle lift sensor malfunction Hi can anyone help with a 2001 Terrano 2.7 td, had the fault code read and came up with p1225 Needle lift sensor malfunction. I took out the injector and had it tested and was ok. He said there was nothing wrong with the sensor and it and would be something else. Put the injector back in and still the same. Has anyone come across this and a solution? Help would be much appriciated.. Mike - North Yorkshire, UK - Thu 11th March 2010 12:42am (GMT)

Subject : Re : Needle lift sensor malfunction This has been previously covered in prior posts on this site. It is a known fault. Are you sure the technician tested the sensor in the correct manner? Hope this helps. John Christchurch, NZ - Thu 11th March 2010 02:48am (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : Needle lift sensor malfunction have a Nissan Terrano 2.7td T Reg. It started mis-firing, blowing smoke out of the exhaust and wont go past 50mph. I took it to a local dealer. They run tests on the Engine Management, it came up with the following: fuel injection timing soleroid/injector needle lift sensor - malfunction. Because i wasn't willing to pay them �700 to fix the problem for me they wouldn't elaborate. Can anyone shed any light as to what this means and what part I will have to replace. Paul Docherty Pontefract, West Yorkshire, UK - Thu 21st May 2009 02:58pm (GMT) * Subject : Re : Mis-firing The second item on this page teels you that the No1. injector needs replacing, because it has that sensor on it, and how it may be cheaper to get non original parts http://forums.overlander.com.au/viewtopic.php?t=13208&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=15&sid=a2d0a9464be1d349d6024bd37007708f See the second posting down from the top. Hope this helps. John Christchurch, NZ - Sun 14th June 2009 12:34pm (GMT) UK - Thu 11th March 2010 03:12am (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : Needle lift sensor malfunction Yes it was tested at a well established diesel test centre. There is no problems with running it goes well just the light is on all the time. Does anyone have any info on what and where to check or any wiring diagrams relating to said problem?? Help would be much appriciated thanks mike - North Yorkshire, UK - Thu 11th March 2010 09:11pm (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : Re : Needle lift sensor malfunction Note that the other fault could be the fuel injection timing solenoid on the fuel pump itself. This appears to be covered by the same fault code? Have you checked this solenoid? Hope this helps John Christchurch, NZ - Fri 26th March 2010 10:17am (GMT)

Subject : Mistral auto 4 wheel drive problem During recent bas weather realised 4 wheel drive hasn't been enagaging despite dash board symbol being illuminated. Can anyone explain how the 4 wheel drive works on front wheels (just free-wheel when jacked up) or has something broken. Vehicle drives okay on rear wheel drive only. Phil Leeds, West Yorks, UK - Sat 06th March 2010 08:09pm (GMT)

Subject : Re : Mistral auto 4 wheel drive problem Have you checked to see if the front drive shaft is there ? i can also send you the Auto section out of my service manual if you want it give me an e mail addy to send it to if so Gary Foxton, New Zealand - Sun 07th March 2010 10:59am (GMT) Subject : Re : Mistral auto 4 wheel drive problem How did you realise the front wheels were not being driven? John - Christchurch, NZ - Thu 11th March 2010 06:03am (GMT)

Subject : Nissan Terrano wide body I have a 96 Nissan Terrano Urban Wide body Import, I am looking for somewhere to get the rubber seal that goes between the wheel arch and the body, obviously I will need about 5 meteres to do all 4 arches. I have tried a few rubber seal manufacturer to no avail Rick Rick Canewdon, Essex, UK - Wed 03rd March 2010 07:38pm (GMT)

Subject : Nissan Terrano wide body I have a 96 Nissan Terrano Urban Wide body Import, I am looking for somewhere to get the rubber seal that goes between the wheel arch and the body, obviously I will need about 5 meteres to do all 4 arches. I have tried a few rubber seal manufacturer to no avail Rick Rick Canewdon, Essex, UK - Wed 03rd March 2010 07:14pm (GMT)

Subject : Piston Compression ratio Can someone tell me what the Piston Compression ratio should be for a Nissan Navara TD 27? Kim Invercargill, NZ, NZ - Sat 27th February 2010 01:36am (GMT)

Subject : Re : Piston Compression ratio According to Wikianswers Bore × stroke 96.00 mm × 92.00 mm 3.78 in × 3.62 in Cylinders S-4 Displacement 2664 cc (162.567 cu in) Compression ratio 21.90:1 Fuel system Maximum power (DIN) 100.4 PS (99.0 bhp) (73.8 kW) @ 4000 rpm Specific output 37.2 bhp/litre 0.61 bhp/cu in The old WWW is a great thing. John Christchurch, NZ - Sat 27th February 2010 08:31am (GMT)

Subject : nissan terrano when i put 4 wheel drive in i get a very bad vibration through car the car wont free wheel the steering pulls all over road john bastock sheffield, south yorkshire, UK - Fri 26th February 2010 10:35pm (GMT)

Subject : Re : nissan terrano Has this vibration started recently? How often in the past have you used 4WD? What surface do you use it on? Is it a lever or switch you use to effect the change to 4wd? Have you ever gone under the vehicle with the engine off and the transmission in 2wd, and tried to turn the front diveshaft...you should hear the hubs click in as you twist one way, and release as you turn it the other way. Have you tried servicing the wheel bearings and the auto hubs yourself? Nothing to it, instruction are below in another couple of postings. Usually, if your steering is alternately pulling one way and then the other, but in a haphazard way, the clutches in the auto hubs need servicing/geasing. It pays to do the wheel bearings while you are in there. Hope this helps. John. John Christchurch, NZ - Sat 27th February 2010 08:27am (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : nissan terrano think ive found problem on rear tyres are 245/70/16 and fronts are 235/70/16 the rears look a lot bigger and when ive measured them they are 20mm bigger in height so going to try some tyres on front ...... thanks for your advice john sheffield, UK - Sat 27th February 2010 01:12pm (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : Re : nissan terrano As per the previous posting two days ago re differences in tyre sizes, I think you have solved it. Did no warning lights show on the dash? John Christchurch, NZ - Sat 27th February 2010 09:13pm (GMT)

Subject : oil i have a 1997 2.7td terrano{r20}.can any body tell me what grade oil i should be using and if it should be semi synthetic,etc.many thanks mark milton keynes, UK - Fri 26th February 2010 03:49pm (GMT)

Subject : Re : oil Any good brand name oil, 10w-30, 15w-40, rated for use in a diesel engine. The critical action is to change it regularly, and the filter, too. I don't believe in extended oil change intervals, so I use mineral oils Not synthetic or semi synthetic, and change both at 5,000km/ 3,000 miles or three months. I do this in at my home, and it costs me less than a third of the price charged at a garage.. and I know the quality of the oil and the filter. I use my Terrano every day, usually for short journeys which combined with town use equals severe service and short oil change intervals. Touch wood, I have never had any of my vehicles die through lack of proper lubrication....yet. Oil is relatively inexpensive compared to engine overhauls, especially in a diesel. Hope this helps John Christchurch, NZ - Sat 27th February 2010 08:17am (GMT)

Subject : qd32 nissan rgulus rev counter problem hi. i have a problem with my rev counter on my 1996 3.2 diesel. it still works, however it is all over the place and shows random revs. the engine is running fine. i have been told that it may be the cranck angle sensor that supplies it its information, however unplugging this doesn't stop the rev counter. any helpwould be greatly appreciated as i won't to replace the right part straight off, not end up replacing good parts that are not faulty? thanks Jacob Charles Joseph Baldwin Whangarei, new zealand - Fri 26th February 2010 12:52am (GMT)

Subject : Re : qd32 nissan rgulus rev counter problem http://www.justanswer.com/questions/1kmt1-i-have-a-1997-nissan-regulus-rsr-it-has-a-3-2lt-qd32-motor """"These models also suffer with varying dashboard problems -- and that could well account for the problems you describe with the rev counter and FWD lights.. There are companies that repair and / or recondition these dash units because of these very faults if if comes to that. A lot cheaper option than a new one. The only other thing I would say , is just check the security / tightness of the earth wires in the engine bay -- especially the ones from the battery to body and the body to the engine... and too, pay attention to the various other small earth wires --any such problems can wreak havoc with the electrics / electronics so its worth just checking those points. If all is well, then you will need to carry on as above. I sincerely hope this helps you~Let me know if you need more help... Kind Rgds...MIKE"""" Hope this helps solve the problems. John Christchurch, NZ - Sat 27th February 2010 09:30am (GMT)

Subject : Terrano 4WD Light I have a 1995 Terrano TD27 Auto. 4WD light flashes orange from time to time. Resets when engine stopped and restarted. New tyres fitted to front. Handbook indicates possible problem with different diameters of tyres. Seems about 10mm difference - due to back tyres 50% worn. No fault shows on diagnostic gear for engine, auto or brakes. Any thoughts? Gerry gerry Waitakere, New Zealand, NZ - Thu 25th February 2010 12:46am (GMT)

Subject : Re : Terrano 4WD Light Gerry, I think you have diagnosed your problem correctly. If the only thing you have done is fit two new tyres, and the light never came on before, then you have a problem in the wheel diameters. A quick way out of this is to buy two more tyres (new or half worn ones) and see if this stops the light activating. I am sure it will. Hope this helps. John Christchurch, NZ - Thu 25th February 2010 08:41am (GMT)

Subject : Injector pump filter I have a Nissan terrano regulus 1997 qd32. i have heard about a mesh filter on the injector pump. Is there a filter on this engine (its a QD32 TDI) if so where abouts is it and how easy is it to get to while the engine is still in the vehicle? i await you replies thanks....Scott Scott Tokoroa, New Zealand, New Zealand - Wed 24th February 2010 12:32am (GMT)

Subject : Re : Injector pump filter You should if anything like the T2.7TD injector pump find under the power steering pump a 17mm bolt holding down a banjo fitting. Crack the bolt holding the fitting BECAREFUL here there are two copper washers one eather side of the fitting. Move the fitting to one side insert a big pen you should pull out a small spring reinsert the ball pen and you should this time pull out a small gauze type filter(not much bigger than the tip of your little finger) they usaly build up with sludge n gunk. Wash in petrol or degreser rince it off n give it a blow out then reassemble the oppersit of removel. Hope it helps you out. Gary Foxton, NZL - Wed 24th February 2010 03:29am (GMT) Subject : Re : Injector pump filter You may also want to anneal the two small copper washers, i.e. heat them up cherry red in flame, then quench them in water. This softens them and makes them seal properly when you tighten down the banjo bolt. Or, buy two new washers... Hope this helps. John Christchurch, NZ - Wed 24th February 2010 06:45am (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : Injector pump filter Thanks john...that all helps me....job will be done!!...thanks again Scott Tokoroa, New Zealand, New Zealand - Thu 25th February 2010 05:36am (GMT)

Subject : Nissan Hardbody Turbo Diesel I am having problems bleeding the brakes. Replaced front discs and pads and cannot seem to get the brakes bled. Have pumped 100's of times but brake pedal remains soft....am I missing something? Please help Grant Cape Town, South Africa, SA - Tue 23rd February 2010 08:06pm (GMT)

Subject : Re : Nissan Hardbody Turbo Diesel Is the pedal feel "softer" than it was before you changed the pads? Could the master cylinder also be worn, allowing air into the brakelines? Are you using a pressure bleeder that feeds fluid through the reservoir and down to the cylinders without needing to push the pedal? Have you started bleeding the brakes from the cylinders furthest away from the cylinder e.g. lr rr lf rf (on a right hand drive) You will not be able to bleed "only" the front brakes, you need to bleed them all in that sequence, and a pressure bleeder is the way to go. Hope this helps. John Christchurch, NZ - Wed 24th February 2010 06:53am (GMT)

Subject : Terrano Problems I have a 51 plate long wheel based 2.7 terrano. The other day the oil light came on, heater indicater went up, lost power pulled over, wooshing sound, steam came out of rightside of engine. On closer inspection oil pushed out into water tank then dumped all over floor. Head taken off and crack tested, all okay, pistons all oaky been in garage two weeks but no further forward. Any ideas? Dawn Barrett Malpas, Cheshire, UK - Tue 23rd February 2010 07:41pm (GMT)

Subject : Re : Terrano Problems Read down a couple of postings and see what can go wrong when you overheat. What is the garage man saying he has done/will do/is doing/ordering parts? John Christchurch, NZ - Wed 24th February 2010 06:48am (GMT)

Subject : ford maverick lost compression had over heating prob, changed head gasket put everything back cracked engine by hand everything ok, so started engine but stopped. now got no compression in 2 and very low in other 2 any help ??????? mark southend, essex, UK - Sun 21st February 2010 05:30pm (GMT)

Subject : Re : ford maverick lost compression When you took the head off to replace the head gasket, did you have the head checked for straightness/splits? Usually they warp with excess heat, and the twist means that the new head gasket is not clamped down evenly all around all the cylinders. Therefore it lets go once again. Solution: take the head off and take it to an engine reconditioner to check for warping. You will also have to check the block for the same thing. It may be cheaper to buy a second hand head, or even a secondhand engine, as ring tension and a lot of other things can also be affected by excess heat. See previous postings re the same thing. John Christchurch, NZ - Mon 22nd February 2010 07:29am (GMT) Subject : Re : ford maverick lost compression Here is a previous discussion re overheated engine:: Hi, My Terrano dumped all its coolant out through a leaky water pump and overheated. Having replaced the pump, it was still losing water, with what looked like a blown head gasket. Now the garage (here in France) says the head's warped and will need replacing. Two questions: is there likely to be any possibility of fixing it by getting the head skimmed (first diesel I've owned so I have no idea if that's a goer.....). And if not, is the 2,400 euro he's quoting me for fitting a replacement taking the p*ss?! Ian - France - Wed 03rd June 2009 11:41am (GMT) * Subject : Re : Terrano 2.7TD warped head If this happened in NZ I would be buying a good secondhand engine, because the excessive heat may have done things to everything else such as the injectors, turbo, rings, etc. Once "cooked" they are never the same. Diesel engines are high compression, and the chance of skimming the head to take metal off to level it and not over-raising the compression are slim to non existent. So, how did the garage diagnose the blown head gasket? Theoretically, with the high compression in the cylinder, large amounts of air bubbles should be forced into the coolant if the head gasket is leaking, and you will see that in the neck of the radiator when you have the cap off, even from cold. Another problem which demands care is if you fill the radiator and the vehicle stands overnight, the coolant could leak into the cylinder and fill it sufficiently so that when you try to start it in the morning it will "hydraulic" i.e. the coolant is incompressible, and the piston cannot squash it, therefore the connecting rod will bend. Also not good. As for the cost, well, that depends on whether there is a good second hand head, or better still, whole engine available at a reasonable price, or is he asking you to replace everything with new? That's expensive... Do you have recovery insurance to get you back home? Your local garage can take the time to source parts at least cost. Otherwise, ask him how much to fit a second hand head; if lots less than 2400 euro store your truck with him, and go home and do some buying yourself, including a gasket set. Go back with it, it should take him less than 8 hours to swap in the "new" head, and drive home. But be aware other damage may not be fixed by a new head, and that may become apparent only after you have driven some distance. Sorry I can't be of more help but 12,000 miles is a long way to bring a spanner. You have some hard decisions ahead of you. Good luck. John Christchurch, NZ - Wed 03rd June 2009 01:49pm (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : Terrano 2.7TD warped head Thanks a lot for the reply; much appreciated. I've just been in to have a look - the head's cracked, not warped (probably didn't catch the translation the first time round) so it's definitely replacement time. Had the same thought as you about the possible state of the rest of the engine (it's got 210,000 kms on it anyway.....) so time to have a look at recon engine prices I guess. Cheers again. Ian. Ian France - Wed 03rd June 2009 04:41pm (GMT) Had the same thought as you about the possible state of the rest of the engine (it's got 210,000 kms on it anyway.....) so time to have a look at recon engine prices I guess. Cheers again. Ian. Ian - France - Wed 03rd June 2009 05:49pm (GMT) Hope this clears it up for you. Good luck. John Christchurch, NZ - Mon 22nd February 2010 09:52am (GMT)

Subject : flashing light i have a flashing air bag light on my dash of my terrano can anybody tell me how to stop it p . hughes birmingham, westmidlands, UK - Sun 21st February 2010 11:29am (GMT)

Subject : terrano 2, 1994 Hi, can anyone help with the problem of my 2.7 td, it smokes badly when cold & cuts out if i dont keep the revs up. As soon as it is warm it runs fine with no smoke. thanks. karl shrewsbury, salop, UK - Sat 20th February 2010 03:15pm (GMT)

Subject : Re : terrano 2, 1994 Sounds like one or more of your glowplugs is not working. They continue to work for a short time after you start the engine in order to make sure that the cylinder is hot enough to ignite the mixture. After the engine warms to a certain degree, the glowplugs cut out. Check glowplugs first, as you obviously have at least one, if not up to three working plugs, otherwise the engine would not start at all. John Christchurch, NZ - Sun 21st February 2010 09:13am (GMT)

Subject : Nissan Mistral 1994 I have recently had a service on my Mistral I bought recently. The garage said the dipstick is not the right one for the vehicle and I don't have a owners manual, so they guessed at changing/adding 6.3l of oil. What is the correct amount of oil for a 2.7d Mistral? Thanks steve york, UK - Thu 18th February 2010 11:52pm (GMT)

Subject : Re : Nissan Mistral 1994 According to my Owners manual, 5.5 litres without filter, 6 litres including filter. It won't be the end of the world to have 6.3 litres in there. I meet "dipsticks" every day, but how do you genuinely lose one out of that long tube on the engine, and who puts a "wrong" one in as a replacement? You can use what you've got, if you re-mark it with the FULL level..and keep it there +/- 1 cm. Otherwise, try to get the right part for peace of mind. Hope this helps John Christchurch, NZ - Sat 20th February 2010 07:00am (GMT)

Subject : maverick 2.7 1998 s reg hi all, can anyone tell me how to turn the engin management light off? have found out the problem and sorted it, just need to reset it now. i was told that if i join wires 6&7 on the diagnostic block for 2 seconds this would reset it but this dose not work. the light is on all the time, but when i bridge6&7 it flashes off 3 flashes off 4 flashes off. anyone know? its the 2.7 td 1998 s reg. wayne perry tamworth, staffs, UK - Tue 16th February 2010 10:20am (GMT)

Subject : fan clutch Nssa Can anyone tell me how to disable a viscous drive fan clutch on a Nissan Safari please? Barry Barry Dick Tauranga, New Zealand - Mon 15th February 2010 10:35pm (GMT)

Subject : Re : fan clutch Nssa If you want it to work all the time, i.e. lock it up so the fan is constantly being spun by the engine, drill holes and insert two bolts with nuts through the housing, diametrically opposite each other for balance will do the trick. But pardon me for asking, are you sure you don't have another more serious problem with your cooling system? The viscous drive fan usually works well. John Christchurch, NZ - Tue 16th February 2010 12:03am (GMT) Subject : Re : fan clutch Nssa Thyanks John. The clutch is wobbly in the bearing and seems to freewheel most of the time. I am waiting for a replacement.How does it come off please?? Barry Barry Dick tauranga, New Zealand - Thu 18th February 2010 05:38am (GMT) Subject : Re : fan clutch Nssa Thyanks John. The clutch is wobbly in the bearing and seems to freewheel most of the time. I am waiting for a replacement.How does it come off please?? Barry Barry Dick tauranga, New Zealand - Thu 18th February 2010 05:38am (GMT) Subject : Re : fan clutch Nssa Thyanks John. The clutch is wobbly in the bearing and seems to freewheel most of the time. I am waiting for a replacement.How does it come off please?? Barry Barry Dick tauranga, New Zealand - Thu 18th February 2010 05:38am (GMT) Subject : Re : fan clutch Nssa Thyanks John. The clutch is wobbly in the bearing and seems to freewheel most of the time. I am waiting for a replacement.How does it come off please?? Barry Barry Dick tauranga, New Zealand - Thu 18th February 2010 05:38am (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : fan clutch Nssa If it is the same as the Terrano one, it is permanently pressed onto the shaft of the water pump, and "replacement" means replacing the water pump and reattaching the old fan to the new viscous clutch. Check the state of the fan, if it is old enough there will be cracks in the fan usually at the base of the blades. You can replace both with either genuine Nissan parts or pattern parts. Hope this helps. John Christchurch, NZ - Thu 18th February 2010 07:06am (GMT)

Subject : fan clutch Nssa Can anyone tell me how to disable a viscous drive fan clutch on a Nissan Safari please? Barry Barry Dick Tauranga, New Zealand - Mon 15th February 2010 10:35pm (GMT)

Subject : Terrano fuel pump HI there, just got a quick question on getting a replacement fuel pump. I have a 1996 Terrano r3m Td27 with a stuffed diesel pump. Will a efi pump from a 1997 r50 td27 fit in and work on my wagon? cheers Nick Auckland, NZ - Mon 15th February 2010 08:49pm (GMT)

Subject : Re : Terrano fuel pump This question is best asked of a diesel mechanic, or a Nissan parts dealer. Best of luck. John Christchurch, NZ - Tue 16th February 2010 12:05am (GMT)

Subject : terrano 2.7td 1997 wiper front wipers only move about 5 inches and then stop when on intermitant.could this be the relay?.cant find a relay for them tho.any body got any ideas?????????????. mark milton keynes, bucks, UK - Sat 13th February 2010 04:03pm (GMT)

Subject : Nissan Mistral 4x4 2.7 turbo diesel automatic Nissan Mistral 4x4 2.7 turbo diesel automatic. it has an intermittent reversing problem! It engages into gear but after the car gets warm the problem happens more Craig Eilbeck Chester, Cheshire, UK - Sat 13th February 2010 01:23am (GMT)

Subject : Re : Nissan Mistral 4x4 2.7 turbo diesel automatic Take it to an expert and ask him to service the trans i.e.to change the auto trans fluid and the auto trans filter. He will check the condition of the internals while he has the pan off to change the filter. He can tell you what condition the whole thing is in, and may be able to spot why the reverse has an intermittent fault. Hope this helps. John Christchurch, NZ - Sat 13th February 2010 02:10pm (GMT)

Subject : alloy wheels I have 5 alloy wheels complete with decent/legal tyres for sale. They will fit a nissan mistral or ford maverick. Buyer to collect £150-00 for the lot Tom Helsby Liverpool, Merseyside, UK - Fri 12th February 2010 07:30pm (GMT)

Subject : Re : alloy wheels are they still for sale simon kendal, cumbria, UK - Mon 22nd February 2010 07:49pm (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : alloy wheels yes, I still have them due to some idiotic bids on e-bay. sorry for the delay in replying. I forgot I had posted this advert. send me an e-mail if interested Tom tom helsby liverpool, UK - Sun 04th April 2010 07:41pm (GMT)

Subject : Nissan Terrano BAS Sensor Hi I drive a Nissan Terrano 2.7 Tdi, 1995. I was changing my CV today and droped the hub. In the event the ABS sensor wires(black & white) pulled out and can't be reconected. Now obviously the warning lights comes on. Will I be in any danger by drving it around untill I can find someone who can fit a new one? Is there any recomendations as to where I can buy a new one? Thank Q Quintin Havenga Titirangi, Auckland, NZ - Fri 12th February 2010 10:58am (GMT)

Subject : Re : Nissan Terrano BAS Sensor Your vehicle is no longer warrant of fitness standard, with a faulty ABS system. Therefore, if you drive it around and have an accident, you will be for the high jump, and your insurance company will not be happy with you (could even refuse you cover) Find out from a Nissan dealer what parts you have to replace. This gives you a baseline re price. Make phone enquiries with parts places price shopping. Make your choice and fit it. Hope this helps. John Christchurch, NZ - Fri 12th February 2010 02:12pm (GMT)

Subject : Nissan Terrano BAS Sensor Hi I drive a Nissan Terrano 2.7 Tdi, 1995. I was changing my CV today and droped the hub. In the event the ABS sensor wires(black & white) pulled out and can't be reconected. Now obviously the warning lights comes on. Will I be in any danger by drving it around untill I can find someone who can fit a new one? Is there any recomendations as to where I can buy a new one? Thank Q Quintin Havenga Titirangi, Auckland, NZ - Fri 12th February 2010 10:56am (GMT)

Subject : nissan mistral cutting out whilst driving Hi all i really really hope someone out there can help. I have a 1997 nissan mistral automatic 2.7 td import. i bought it just before xmas and it was fine for a few weeks.Then it stopped whilst i was driving along no lights come on dash to indicate a fault just cut out. I pulled over and it started first time and off i went. it has done this nearly every other day random weather it is a long journey or short. i can tell when it is going to happen cause the engine revs by itself and jumps forward and few seconds later it cuts out, i have just changed the main fuse cause it looked dodgy and had a full service all the filters have been changed. I have explained to my mecanic and he says it is an import so not sure. please could some one help. as my wife had a scare on a roudabout with the kids in car the other day all 5 of them. john from NZ could you please help you seem to know most about these 4x4 thanks. christian great harwood, lancashire, UK - Fri 12th February 2010 07:07am (GMT)

Subject : Re : nissan mistral cutting out whilst driving The simplest thing to start with is to connect a wire capable of taking 10amps of current between a bolt or nut on the engine and a bolt or nut on the firewall to ensure that there is a good ground between the engine (and it's sensors) and the firewall. From reading other websites this problem of corrosion at the bolts of the usual earthing straps seems to affect the older Nissans. If this does seem to cure the problem, make up a new earth strap and replace the old one. Other possibilities have been covered in previous posts and include MAP/MAF sensor. But the best idea would be to get the computer scanned for fault codes otherwise it will be an expensive guessing/parts replacement game. Hope this helps. John Christchurch, NZ - Fri 12th February 2010 02:07pm (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : nissan mistral cutting out whilst driving Thanks i have just got a new earthing wire fitted hopefully this will solve the problem. i will keep you informed. thanks for you input really appreciate it. christian great harwood, lancashire, UK - Fri 12th February 2010 03:51pm (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : Re : nissan mistral cutting out whilst driving Wow i have done the earth like you said and i cant belive it. It drives like a new car changes gears without revving its bollocks off. alaso it s a lot quicker and reaches up to 80- 90 mph without high revs. the overdrive actually works as i am only doing 2,500rpm at 85 mph thanks John you have made my week. hopefully its stopped the cutting out has not done it for 2 days so fingers crossed. Top man john from nz I would buy you a pint if i could mate christian great harwood, lancashire, UK - Sun 14th February 2010 12:45pm (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : Re : Re : nissan mistral cutting out whilst driving Spoke to soon cut out this morning. But at least it runs smoother i will get it hooked up to a computer and see whats goin on. christian great harwood, lancashire, UK - Tue 16th February 2010 08:31am (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : Re : Re : Re : nissan mistral cutting out whilst driving How is the search for "the answer" going? John Christchurch, NZ - Thu 18th February 2010 07:09am (GMT)

Subject : gears hi whirring noise occurs when driving in 2h, have to drop back to 4h to stop noise then when placed back in to 2h whirr will reoccur at some point resulting in continually having to complete earlier step. Any ideas as to cause and solution please? kirst Richmond, yorkshire, UK - Thu 11th February 2010 05:33pm (GMT)

Subject : Re : gears hi Sounds like a fault in the front transmission system. Easiest check is exterior of the diff and driveline, see if there are any plastic bags or other extraneous garbage hanging off. Then check fluid level in the front diff. Then take the auto hubs apart, checking the state of the spring clutch in each hub and making sure it is not worn. If you do both hubs at once, you can directly compare the state of one with the other. Also check that the shift mechanism is working properly (is it an electric switch or a manual lever?) Hope this helps. John Christchurch, NZ - Sat 13th February 2010 01:13am (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : gears hi Thanks for that, it has manual gear change. kirst Richmond, NORTH YORKS, UK - Sat 13th February 2010 09:50am (GMT)

Subject : nissan mistral or terrano keeps cuuting out when i am driving Hi all i really really hope someone out there can help. I have a 1997 nissan mistral automatic 2.7 td import. i bought it just before xmas and it was fine for a few weeks.Then it stopped whilst i was driving along no lights come on dash to indicate a fault just cut out. I pulled over and it started first time and off i went. it has done this nearly every other day random weather it is a long journey or short. i can tell when it is going to happen cause the engine revs by itself and jumps forward and few seconds later it cuts out, i have just changed the main fuse cause it looked dodgy and had a full service all the filters have been changed. I have explained to my mecanic and he says it is an import so not sure. please could some one help. as my wife had a scare on a roudabout with the kids in car the other day all 5 of them. christian great harwood, lancasire, UK - Thu 11th February 2010 03:00pm (GMT)

Subject : Re : nissan mistral or terrano keeps cuuting out when i am driving Christian had a diagnosis done in May 2010 which suggested the crank angle sensor. John UK - Fri 28th May 2010 05:57am (GMT)

Subject : Terrano Lights Brought a 2.7L Terrano SE. The lights are not very good on it. No better than a hand torch. Any sugestions. Also I tow a caravan, ok it weighs 1500kgs, but going up slight hills seems to be a struggle, having to go down to third gear. what wrong with it. Pete Bridgwater, Somerset, UK - Wed 10th February 2010 11:10pm (GMT)

Subject : Re : Terrano Lights In consultation with a crystal ball, here are some possibilities re your "weak" headlights: Possible:The bulbs that are in there are cheap and nasty, their light output is woeful. Solution: buy nice, bright, new bulbs. Something like NARVA +30 65/55w headlight bulbs works for me. Possible: The ground wire to the headlights is corroded; insufficient grounding means the electrickery can't complete the circuit properly, causing dull lights. If you replace the bulbs as above, you will soon see if it makes a difference. You should carry a spare, anyway. Struggling up hills usually means not enough fuel or not enough air, but keep in mind it is not a V8 petrol! Replace the fuel filter, and the air filter. While you are at it, replace the oil filter and engine oil as well. It wouldn't hurt to replace all the fluids in the transmissions and diffs, too. Then you know you have done your best. After that it is time to go to an expert. Otherwise, read some of the previous posts going back 6 years, and some other ideas may come to you. Hope this helps. John Christchurch, NZ - Thu 11th February 2010 06:16am (GMT)

Subject : nissan terrano ive got a nissan terrano 2.7 diesel 1996 model the problem is it wont start brand new battery there is two black boxes underneath battery all im getting is just a clicking sound from them when i go to start it can any body tell me what there are for timothy robinson hartlepool, cleveland, UK - Tue 09th February 2010 10:22pm (GMT)

Subject : Re : nissan terrano Hi have you tried putting a jump lead on the heater plug rail one end and the other end of the plus on the battery for 20 seconds whilst getting someone to start the car if it starts its your heater plug relays but you can bypass it by having an auto electrician fit a 90amp relay and a start button type switch in so that you dont accidentally leave it on and flatten the battery like i have in the past. i hope this helps if it doen't let me know i mite some other ideas. Regards Ian Ian Robinson cannock, staffordshire, UK - Wed 10th February 2010 12:41am (GMT)

Subject : unable to change from 4H to 2H nissan terrano 2.7 sr 1998. Vehicle was generating a whiring noise fron n/s front wheel which only ceased when vehicle had come to a stop, accompanied by clunk. I took this to be the free running hubs trying to engage 4H and jumping out. I have selected the 4H drive system and the noise has stopped when driving. However I can not now engage the 2H gear as lever will not move forward to locate from the 4H position. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated Simon simon melsonby, north yorks, UK - Mon 08th February 2010 05:14pm (GMT)

Subject : Re : unable to change from 4H to 2H This was a problem for me but after a good looking at found that the brake inside the Free Wheel Hub was bent slightly... to check this ...remove the free wheel hub ... no need to remove road wheel... and draw off and you will see a copper bronze device whith a soft spring this works like a clutch so as to engage the drive whilst vehicle is moving... if you see that it is damaged (the prongs are bent) then replace it ... remove them both 2 parts and soft spring from either side ... and replace hubs... put it into normal drive and test it on the road... "Do Not try to change gear to 4 wheel drive until you are stopped"!... when stopped put into 4 wheel drive and go slowly if you still hear the whirring sound it is more serious.. the brake being bent stops the full return of the hub to free wheel... and jams one wheel while the other is free... Lyn Poddley Lyn Poddley Cornwall, UK - Wed 10th March 2010 11:09am (GMT)

Subject : ignition problem i have a nissan terrano 2.7td m reg the problem is i went to start my car last night heater plug light came on went out turned the key started cranking for a short time and then stopped tried again and all ingnition is dead no power what so ever has anybody got any ideas what happend i have looked at the fuses and all check out ok it also took out about 50% of the battery charge when it happend as well all information would be very gratfull thanks richard cain alfreton, derbyshire, UK - Sun 07th February 2010 10:33am (GMT)

Subject : Re : ignition problem Can you turn any of the lights on? Does anything electrical work? If not, your battery may have collapsed, or a fusible link may have gone. Try recharging the battery for a start, after you have checked it with a voltmeter. Hope this helps John Christchurch, NZ - Mon 08th February 2010 07:32am (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : ignition problem when you have charged ur battery have the alternater checked if it does it again you may have to remove it if car dont start. also have you had it checked by auto electrician they mite shed some light on it or the dealer it costs nothing to pick their brains after al the supposed tobe the specailists if you get my drift. regards Ian Robinson cannock, staffordshire, UK - Wed 10th February 2010 12:50am (GMT)

Subject : Nissan Pathfinder I have a nissan pathfinder 2007/57 plate, and it has just recently stopped working in 4 wheel drive, and only works 2 wheel drive?? Any body no why?? Simon penrith, cumbria, UK - Tue 02nd February 2010 09:24pm (GMT)

Subject : Re : Nissan Pathfinder See later post (2 up)above, and check hubs for damage to that bronze clutch. Easy job, you can't hurt it. Look at both hubs at the same time, see if there is a difference, fix the difference. Hope this helps John Christchurch, NZ - Thu 11th March 2010 06:15am (GMT)

Subject : central locking I have recently purchased a nissan terrano 2, 1996 p reg. i am having problems with the central locking. when i unlock the car using the key in the door it sometimes locks again when i take the key out. it has also done this when i turned the car off and removed the key from the ignition. phil wisbech, cambs, UK - Fri 29th January 2010 12:10pm (GMT)

Subject : Re : central locking Hi Phil, did you solve your central locking problem - I am getting fed-up of being locked out of my Terrano as well ? !!!! regards Ian Ian Warner Stafford, UK - Wed 14th April 2010 03:01pm (GMT)

Subject : nissan terrano can someone tell me how to take the 4x4 gear shift stick knob off the top of the gear stick so i can remove the leather skirt from it as it has a rip in it and i need to put a new cover on it, its frickn pissn me off coz its not unscrewing off at all and im thinkn ill just snap the stick if i keep trying to force turn the thing off ? Help appreciated guys... should it be so tightly on that you cant unwind it aye..? horse Rotorua, rotorua, new zealand - Fri 29th January 2010 02:07am (GMT)

Subject : Re : nissan terrano I just unscrewed the knob by twisting it anti-clockwise. It has what looks like a nylon iseret in the knob. If it has been overtightened the insert may have split, therefore will not unwind. Pull up on the knob and twist anticlockwise, it should come off. If it doesn't but the knob still twists, drag it off while holding the stick with a pair of vice grips (pad the jaws). Hope this helps. John Christchurch, NZ - Fri 29th January 2010 02:24am (GMT)

Subject : Startup Revs surge I have a 1996 2.7td terrano. I had the Auto serviced and the water pump replaced and it came back to me with this problem. Startup and the revs shoot upto 1500 then settle back to idle(if i tap the accalerator when starting it dos'nt surge as high), and when i shift from drive to park sometimes the revs dip down to 400 then back to idle, i have changed the injector pump with no difference. No codes come up and sensors check out ok,The truck runs fine the rest of the time. Please help as nobody seems to know whats wrong. Michael Kemp Methven, Canterbury, New Zealand - Thu 28th January 2010 12:56am (GMT)

Subject : Re : Startup Revs surge Try the trick of running an earthing wire capable of taking at least 10 amps between a bolt on the engine itself and a bolt on the firewall. There seems to be a problem with earthing straps specifically the bolts corroding creating a bad earth. That is the easiest possible fix. Then you start looking at injection pumps etc. Hope this helps. John Christchurch, NZ - Thu 28th January 2010 03:03pm (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : Startup Revs surge I tried that and replaced the computer and injector pump, tested the TPS etc. Something is telling the computer/pump to do this, its a electrical problem but nobody can find out what is causing the problem Michael Kemp Methven, NZ - Thu 28th January 2010 10:16pm (GMT) Subject : Re : Startup Revs surge I wonder if when the auto was serviced the computer wiring plugs were disconnected/not reconnected properly? Might be worth squirting electrical contact cleaner into them, and any other electrical connectors/sensors which may have been disconnected in order to replace the water pump, e.g. alternotor, temperature sender wires. In fact, go back to the mechanic who did the work..he is responsible for ensuring that your vehicle works as well as, if not better than it did when you brought it to him. Hope this helps. John Christchurch, NZ - Fri 29th January 2010 02:18am (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : Startup Revs surge I have had it back to them more than once and they have spent hours trying to find the problem including changing the injector pump and testing sensors and everything is doing what it should when it should but it still revs Michael Kemp Methven, nz - Fri 29th January 2010 04:17am (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : Re : Startup Revs surge They also seem to think the problem has nothing to do with changing the water pump and the oil in the gearbox but it started fine before it went in, Michael Kemp Methven, nz - Fri 29th January 2010 04:20am (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : Re : Re : Startup Revs surge Mike, How has it all turned out in the long run? John Christchurch, NZ - Thu 11th March 2010 06:17am (GMT)

Subject : draining engine Hi Can anyone advise how to totally drain the water out of a Nissen TD27 engine whilst still in situ bill allen dunedin, otago, nz - Tue 26th January 2010 10:21pm (GMT)

Subject : Re : draining engine Take the bottom hose off the radiator and all the water should drain out of the engine. If you have a manual heater control turn it to "hot", it should also drain the heater matrix. Otherwise disconnect one of the heater hoses at the front of the engine and blow through with compressed air to empty the heater matrix. It would make sense to reverse flush the radiator with clean high pressure water at this stage, to get rid of loose scale etc. If you have any doubts about the radiator, remove it and have it rodded through by a radiator shop. There is a genuine Nissan TD thermostat on TradeMe at the moment. Some say the genuine Nissan thermostat opens more than a pattern part service station replacement thermostat. Hope this helps. John Christchurch, NZ - Wed 27th January 2010 02:01pm (GMT)

Subject : Mistral 1995 turbo diesel 2.7 Hi I just boght my first 4x4...nissan mistral turbo diesel 2.7....and in my first long drive, I drove it to Hamilton and I notice a good raise on the temp when I got to the top of the Kaimais...and it was even worst on the way back home as the hill is much more curvie and takes longer to make it to the top....I even had to stop before the temp reaches the red mark.....There is water on the radiator...Can anyone help me christian kinzel Mount MAunganui, nz - Tue 26th January 2010 07:47am (GMT)

Subject : Re : Mistral 1995 turbo diesel 2.7 When you say there is water "on" the radiator, do you mean there is water in the radiator, or is it on the exterior i.e. it is leaking? There are genuine Nissan thermostats for sale on TradeMe. It is claimed by some that the genuine Nissan thermostats open further than the normal replacement ones you can buy at service stations and parts sellers. If you do not know what type of thermostat is in there, perhaps buy one of these and replace the thermostat. While you are doing this, drain and refill the coolant. If you have a leak in the radiator, get it fixed. The radiator is easy to remove. Replace the top and bottom hoses, and the radiator cap while you are at it. This should cure all problems except a water temperature guage or temperature sender problem. Hope this helps. John Christchurch, NZ - Tue 26th January 2010 02:26pm (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : Mistral 1995 turbo diesel 2.7 Sorry about my english mate, Im from overseas...I meant in the radiator,Can u please tell me where is the thermostat located so i can check it....cheers mate christian kinzel Mount MAunganui, nz - Thu 28th January 2010 05:07am (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : Re : Mistral 1995 turbo diesel 2.7 Follow the top hose from the radiator to the engine. Where it meets the triangle-shaped rounded cover is the thermostat housing. Undo the three bolts and the thermostat just lifts out. Test by immersing in water and bring to the boil, it should be closed when cold, and wide open by boiling. Most likely it will be marked 82C which is when it should be opening. It's cheap enough to replace. John Christchurch, NZ - Fri 29th January 2010 02:34am (GMT) Subject : Re : Mistral 1995 turbo diesel 2.7 I am on my second Mistral 2.7 diesel turbo and I have changed the thermostat in both of them. With the new thermostats they normally sit at less than a quarter of the way up the scale. When working hard i.e the Desert road or the Coromandel hills in the height of summer when fully laden the temperature gauge will rise to the mid point of the scale. If you listen you will hear that the mechanical fan is spinning much harder. The gauge has never gone higher and drops back to normal as we approach sea level. I wouldn’t worry too much Richard Finlay Wellington, NZ - Sun 21st February 2010 07:28pm (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : Mistral 1995 turbo diesel 2.7 Richard, Are these new thermostats the ones sold by Nissan dealers, the TD thermostats as advertised on TradeMe? John Christchurch, NZ - Thu 25th February 2010 08:49am (GMT)

Subject : paddling Hi i have SWB Terrano 1999 and have a problem both front wheelwells collect water the drivers side really badly you need wellies cant work out how the water is getting in also the rear floor is wet [not behind the seats]the luggage compartment this means i am constantly steamed up which is really annoying hope somebody can please help Thanks Miles miles oldham, lancs, UK - Sat 23rd January 2010 05:25pm (GMT)

Subject : Re : paddling When do the footwells fill up with water: when you are driving on wet roads; (look for holes in the floor, in the inner guards, blocked cabin air intake drains) when you let it stand outside overnight in the rain; (blocked cabin air intake drains, blocked sunroof drains especially if it is parked on a slope) or when you go through deep water? (holes in floor, leaking door seals) If you have anti freeze in the coolant (and you should have) does the cabin smell sickly sweet, I.E is the heater matrix leaking inside? The luggage compartment seems like door seals. Have you recently had frozen doors and ripped the rubbers seals when opening the door, or disturbed the seals in pulling open the doors? Recommended before winter is a spray of silicone on the seals which prevent water "sticking" to the rubber and icing doors shut. Hope this helps John Christchurch, NZ - Mon 25th January 2010 01:13am (GMT) Subject : Re : paddling * Subject : Re : Water Leak may be seal on windscreen UK - Thu 18th January 2007 10:50pm (GMT) * Subject : Re : Water Leak Hi, Found this site through searching for leaky Mistral on Google! My Dad has a '97 3 door and is having same problem, although his only affects passenger side well. He is putting a full newspaper under the mat every night to absorb the water. Only seems to come in when car is stationery, suggesting not being thrown up from the road. I will watch replies here with interest, as I have searched online and not come up with many solutions, although this type of leak does seem common in Terranos as well. Lesley - Cornwall, UK - Mon 26th February 2007 04:16pm (GMT) o Subject : Re : Re : Water Leak Terrano mkll lwb 1997. I had a leak coming through the screw fixings that hold down the rubber seal under the bonnet. By carefully removing the grey plastic panel below the windscreen wipers you will see a small cover panel that is directly above the blower Fan intake inside the front passanger footwell.use a small amount of silicone sealent around the gaskets and screws as they are refitted.that solved my leak. you could use a few strips of waterproof duct tape over the first few rubber seal fixing holes and around the end of the plastic facia panel next to the bonnet hinge and if this stops the water then you know what to do. hope this solves your leak.. Graham Fareham, Hants, UK - Fri 13th July 2007 09:17pm (GMT) * Subject : Re : Water Leak Have had this problem. Have T2 1997 SR with elec s/r. Happened just after converted to LPG and thought may have been related. Was only on drivers side. Also extremely heavy rain for days. Sun roof appeared ok. Then adjusted door lock fitting and fingers crossed has now been ok for about 3 weeks. Even after heavy rain. Mal Liverpool, Merseyside, UK - Mon 21st April 2008 10:41am (GMT) * Subject : Re : Water Leak Slide the sunroof open. Stand up through the opening & look at the front of the channel corners. There is a drain hole each side. If these become blocked or the drain pipe inside the pillar splits the water will enter the car. It cured my flooding problem. Bernie Burntwood, Burntwood, UK - Tue 19th August 2008 11:20pm (GMT) John Christchurch, NZ - Fri 29th January 2010 02:11am (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : paddling I had this problem on the drivers side whenever there was rain. It turned out to be a disconnected drain from the sunshine roof. My mechanic was able, with some fiddling to reconnect it without having to pull the sunshine roof apart. Grahame cattermole Dunedin, New Zealand - Thu 11th February 2010 10:13pm (GMT)

Subject : coolent can someone please advise the total coolant capacity for a nissan mistral with a TD27 engine bill allen dunedin, otago, nz - Sat 23rd January 2010 07:43am (GMT)

Subject : Re : coolent Capacity including heater: 10.4 litres. Hope this helps John Christchurch, NZ - Mon 25th January 2010 01:04am (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : coolent Thanks John bill allen dunedin, otago, nz - Mon 25th January 2010 05:51am (GMT)

Subject : mr I have a 08 nissan navara longwaydown d40 and i want to jack it up some more but still be able to drive it on long runs can any body help me on which kit to get and how much to lift can i get away with. kev cocking portland dorset, dorset, UK - Fri 22nd January 2010 01:33pm (GMT)

Subject : ford maverick MY MAVERICK 2.7 diesel WONT GO OVER 3000rpm and white smoke coming out of exhaust as anyone come across this problem please help salvatore woking, surrey, UK - Thu 21st January 2010 05:18pm (GMT)

Subject : Re : ford maverick White smoke usually means water in the engine, usually in the fuel. Replace the fuel filter for a start.That is the simplest and least expensive "fix". Are you losing water from the cooling system? If so, is it an internal leak .e.g. blown head gasket (has the engine overheated recently?) Hope this helps. John Christchurch, NZ - Thu 21st January 2010 07:31pm (GMT)

Subject : bull bar I have a chrome A BAR for a Nissan Terrano surplus to requirements so up for sale anybody interested miles oldham, lancs, UK - Thu 21st January 2010 11:58am (GMT)

Subject : Re : bull bar Hi, How much do you want for the a bar. How much would it cost to send to Somerset. PETE BRIDGWATER, SOMERSET, UK - Wed 10th February 2010 10:16pm (GMT)

Subject : Ford Maverick front Discs Hi can someone tell me how to change the front brake discs on my 97 Ford Maverick 2.7TD . I have got the Calliper off to change the seals. I have new discs and pads, it looks like you take the six bolts out but how do you get them over the hub. ?? do you have to dismantle the free running hub ?? Steve Bird aldershot, hants, UK - Wed 20th January 2010 11:46pm (GMT)

Subject : Re : Ford Maverick front Discs Yes, and take the opportunity to repack the wheel bearings and reset the end play while you are there. It's all very logical once you get into it. Hope this helps. John Christchurch, NZ - Thu 21st January 2010 07:36pm (GMT) Subject : Re : Ford Maverick front Discs From a previous post on this site To reset wheelbearing play correctly: Remove free-wheeling hubs by undoing cap screws. Splined piece is held on with circlip - remove Hub nuts have bolt to secure - remove & remove washer Rotate inner washer - tap around with punch - I turn until tight & back off 1/8 turn Reassemble Grease auto hub with correct grease 1000's of import 4WD's in New Zealand John Christchurch, NZ - Thu 21st January 2010 07:39pm (GMT)

Subject : Terrano Wipers and Washers Wife has a 2004 Nissan Terrano 3.0 SVE turbo diesel. All the following happened together. Last week. The front screen wiper (intermittent position) doesn't work when switched on, on the control unit on right of steering wheel. Plus the front windscreen sprayers stopped working (the sprayers for the headlights do still work, or at least one does). Plus the rear wiper stopped working completely and the rear windscreen sprayer stopped working completely. The front wipers do still work using the steering wheel side control unit, i.e. normal and fast wipe, and the single wipe using the up position. However in the current foul weather having no sprayers, and no rear wipe is a real nuisance/dangerous. What the problem? Fuse? Its odd that they all went at the same time. Martin R Sheffield, South Yorkshire, UK - Mon 18th January 2010 04:40pm (GMT)

Subject : Freewheel hubs My parents have got a 1996 SWB 2.7TD and the NS freewheel hub broke up causing a load of noise.A good replacement has been found, but before I fit it,i noticed a lot of movement in the splined driveshaft where it sits through the hub.If I wobble the splined end there is quite a lot of visible up and down movement in the CV joint and shaft.There is no lateral play.Is this normal? Should there be a circlip on the end of the driveshaft as there is a groove in it? Ian B Rugby, Warks, UK - Fri 15th January 2010 08:20pm (GMT)

Subject : Re : Freewheel hubs Have a look at the offside freewheel system, carefully disassembling it and noting the positions of the relevant pieces and their tensions and clearances. It mirrors the NS hub, so you will have to have the same bits in both sides. While you are there, repack the wheelbearings with grease. Have fun. John Christchurch, NZ - Sat 16th January 2010 07:03am (GMT)

Subject : Just bought 2004 Nissan Terrano 2.7 TDi Great car but has a problem. When doing 30 MPH in second gear the engine is racing, when I cange up into 3rd gear the car vibrates as if the speed is to slow for that gear. As the speed limit is 30 MPH it is very difficult to drive, I am forever changing from 2nd to 3rd to stay whithin the speed limit. If I take the speed up to 35 MPH in 3rd the noise stops. Hard to describe the noise but it is a dronong vibration. Can anyone help. Kevan Davison - UK - Wed 13th January 2010 10:02pm (GMT)

Subject : Re : If the pitch of the noise changes with the change in road surface, the droning could be from the tyres, especially if they are mudgrips. If the noise stays the same, whatever the road surface, suspect the driveline, possibly universal joints in the rear propshaft, or the sliding joint. Give that a grease for a start. Hope this helps. John Christchurch, NZ - Thu 14th January 2010 04:46am (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : Thanks for the reply. Car is fitted with road tyres so don't think its that. Read stories on the net. about the clutch causing vibration and recomendation to fit a different clutch. Anyone heard of this? I will check drive shafts and joints tomorrow. Also just noticed oil underneath the car. Are Terranos noted for oil leaks? if so are they difficult to fix? KTD UK - Thu 14th January 2010 04:44pm (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : Re : Terranos are not known for oil leaks. The only leak I have ever found on mine was the oil/air return hose from the vacuum pump on the back of the alternator to the sump. I replaced the hose which had hardened with age, tightened up the securing clips, and now no more leaks. If you have a leak, find it and fix it. John Christchurch, NZ - Fri 15th January 2010 07:13am (GMT) Subject : Re : dronning this will more than likely be a collapsed rear gearbox cross member mounting. it should be a one piece heavy metalastic unit but they seperate allowing the back of the box to drop and any vibration transfers directly through the chassis. John Stone Northampton, UK, UK - Fri 15th January 2010 03:51pm (GMT) Subject : Re : hi..... my terrano seemes to have the same problem... did you work out what it was billy kendal, UK - Mon 22nd February 2010 07:58pm (GMT)

Subject : big wheels Hi can anbody tell me the biggest wheel tyre combination that i can fit on a 99 nissan terrano 2 Thanks miles oldham, lancashire, UK - Mon 11th January 2010 02:44pm (GMT)

Subject : Re : big wheels Hi I have got a terrano 2 and I put on 31 1050 15 on . Nice and big and good looking Dave East Yorkshire, UK - Fri 05th February 2010 07:53pm (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : big wheels Hi Dave did you use the original wheels and just bigger tyres miles oldham, lancs, UK - Mon 15th February 2010 03:28pm (GMT)

Subject : BRAKE PADS i DRIVE A NISSAN PATHFINDER (2008) AND AFTER ITS FIRST SERVICE AT 18,000 MILE I HAVE BEEN TOLD MY BRAKE PADS NEED REPLACING I AM NOT A HEAVY BRAKE USER AS MOST OF THE DRIVING I DO ENGINE BRAKING IS MORE THAN ADEQUATE, DOES THIS SOUND A LITTLE EXCESSINV TO ANYONE OR IS IT NORMAL? M Vaughan Templecombe, SOMERSET, UK - Sun 10th January 2010 05:08pm (GMT)

Subject : Re : BRAKE PADS There are numerous complaints in the forums in Australia re pads and disks wearing out very quickly. Apparently if you replace the pads with a "harder" composition, the disks are worn out even quicker. The solution seems to be replacing the disks and pads with "name brand" replacements. See: http://www.motorsm.com/complaints/update/display.asp?aid=390 and other complaints on this site. Hope this helps. John Christchurch, NZ - Mon 11th January 2010 11:17am (GMT)

Subject : Terrano r3mr rear bumper Can anyone tell me how to remove the rear bumper.This is the one with chrome corner inserts.I ve removed the six nuts from the two mounting brackets, but it still wont come off.Can anyone help me. Mike Ballinger carterton, oxon, UK - Sun 10th January 2010 12:37pm (GMT)

Subject : Re : Terrano r3mr rear bumper You need to Pull the bumper out with some force(Away from the truck)at the front(motor end)it is clipped in place Michael Kemp Methven, nz - Thu 28th January 2010 12:27am (GMT)

Subject : glow plug controller hi everybody this may sound a lame question but i have a nissan terrano 2.7td 1994 could any body please tell me were the glow plug conroler relay is located as this has failed and i want to replace it richard alfreton, derbyshire, UK - Sun 10th January 2010 11:10am (GMT)

Subject : Re : glow plug controller look on the left hand side inside the engine remove the plastic cover there you will find the ec unit which will need to be changed bu its mos likly your glow plugs have gone steve swansea, UK - Wed 13th January 2010 09:07pm (GMT)

Subject : Auto-Free Running Hubs can anyone help when selecting 4 wheel drive the auto free running hubs do not engage on my 1996 ford maverick i have removed hubs and found one looks different n/s one does not have floating sprung ring thanks now for any help Paul MacGregor Sevenoaks, Kent, UK - Sat 09th January 2010 05:09pm (GMT)

Subject : Re : Auto-Free Running Hubs I think you have diagnosed your own problem, and it's solution. Unless there is a different type of hub on one side,(most unlikely) then the missing spring ring is what is missing. Where did it go? Replace that and the system should work. Hope this helps. John Christchurch, NZ - Sun 10th January 2010 03:40am (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : Auto-Free Running Hubs Thanks very much for your advice, I'll give it a go. Paul MacGregor Sevenoaks, Kent, UK - Sun 10th January 2010 11:43am (GMT)

Subject : Nissan Mistral 1998 Intermittent Starting and Rough Gear Changing Fault Hi, we have a 1998 Mistral which has had a series of intermittent problems since August 2009. Initially it had an intermittent starting fault, so the auto electrian replaced the HT lead to the glow plug rail, and replaced the starter/engine off solenoid. A couple of weeks later the problem was back. The auto electrian was unable to find the fault, so another mechanic replaced the relay for the start/stop signal. A few weeks later - same problem again with intermittent difficulty with starting (unable to get it started, would sometimes leave it for awhile then it would start ok), and also rough auto gear changes so a 3rd mechanic tried. Eventually, $700 later, they decided the stop/start relay had failed again (a brand new genuine Nissan part) so replaced it again. Few weeks later the engine would stop while driving, poor idle, and an engine warning light, so the fuel filter was replaced. Then, a couple of wks later the old original fault was back and the mechanic this time said it was the Crank Sensor relay; this was replaced; another $500. Now, it's happening again - won't start, rough gear changes, Power/Hold/AT switch lights up when we try to start it, dashboard fault indicator light comes on. We're at our wits end with it, so far it has cost us over $2000 (had to also get a new battery because the old one died with all the bad starts) and still not fixed. Has anyone any ideas? Two auto-electricians and two different mecanical repair places have not been able to sort it out despite hooking it up to all manner of expensive machinery and tracing wiring etc. Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated. Ange South Island, NZ - Thu 07th January 2010 10:10am (GMT)

Subject : Re : Nissan Mistral 1998 Intermittent Starting and Rough Gear Changing Fault Have you had a scan done on the computer to find out which faults are being indicated? It is possible a bad ground between the engine and the rest of the truck is interrupting the signals to the computer, and also causing it not to start. Try running a thick wire between a bolt on the engine block and a bolt on the firewall. If that cures the problems have a new ground strap made up by an auto sparky. Hope this helps John Christchurch, NZ - Sun 10th January 2010 03:37am (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : Nissan Mistral 1998 Intermittent Starting and Rough Gear Changing Fault Thanks for the advice. We've had numerous scans done which have indicated the various relay faults, but it seems there is something going on in the background which is causing the relays to fault. Will try your suggestion of the wire from the block to firewall. Thanks again! Ange Rangiora, South Island, NZ - Sun 10th January 2010 07:30am (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : Re : Nissan Mistral 1998 Intermittent Starting and Rough Gear Changing Fault Ange, Did this work, or have you had the computer scanned to see if there are any other faults? John Christchurch, NZ - Thu 18th February 2010 07:16am (GMT)

Subject : Ford Maverick 2.7td braking issue Hi Ive been having a recent concern with braking. When the revs drop to idle, the handbrake warning light illuminates and braking is almost non-existant. Makes driving in traffic 'interesting'. Soon as the revs rise above idle, the handbrake warning light goes out and normal braking is resumed. Any thoughts would be appreciated. I don't know whether it is related but if I look into the enhine bay from the front and look to the left side of the engine there is a rubber tube that has obviously been cut at some point and blocked off with a screw(!?) looks like a vacuum pipe but I cant see an obvious place for where it would have connected Simon Thetford, Norfolk, UK - Sun 03rd January 2010 06:51pm (GMT)

Subject : Re : Ford Maverick 2.7td braking issue John UK - Tue 05th January 2010 12:48pm (GMT) Subject : Re : Ford Maverick 2.7td braking issue Vacuum pump on alternator worn, or leak from brake master cylinder. - UK - Wed 06th January 2010 01:24pm (GMT)

Subject : anybody got any pics or connection details for the vacuum pipes on a 1995 nissan mistral. 2.7 td R20 engine? Thanks Tom tom liverpool, UK - Fri 01st January 2010 09:07pm (GMT)

Subject : Re : Try this reference: http://bebrs.pie-dabas.net/Webs/Terrano/R20/fa.pdf Hope this helps. John Christchurch, NZ - Sat 02nd January 2010 11:04am (GMT) Subject : Re : I have a basic diagram of it here on disc for the WD21 TD2.7T give me a e mail addy and i will send the manual i have here it may pay to open a google account as they will allow files up to 10 gig to be down loaded. I also have a manual here for the V6 model as well although the motor n trans are different the rest is the same Gary - NZL - Sat 02nd January 2010 11:40am (GMT) Subject : Re : vacuum pipes diagram Hello, Thank you for the reply, if you could e-mail the diagram to me I would be very gratefull. t.helsby@hotmail.co.uk thanks again Tom Tom Helsby liverpool, merseyside, UK - Sat 02nd January 2010 02:17pm (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : Hi, Just read your post on 4x4rum and am desperate for for WD21 TD2.7T sections on turbo and vacuum hosing and EGR hosing.Please could you email me anything you might have on this engine please. andy smith Harwich, UK - Tue 20th April 2010 01:45am (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : sorry my email for anything diagram wise ect on TD2.7 engine is andrewsmith272@aol.com andy smith Harwich, UK - Tue 20th April 2010 02:07am (GMT)

Subject : Vacuum hoses Message for John in Christchurch, do you have a routing diagram for the vacuum hoses on a 1995 mistral 2.7 td auto? I have recently removed them and have replaced them wrongly as there is a distinct lack of power. Thanks in advance Tom Tom Helsby Liverpool, Merseyside, UK - Fri 01st January 2010 12:38pm (GMT)

Subject : Re : Vacuum hoses Sorry, I don't have a diagram for them.Any chance of talking another 2.7 owner into letting you have a quick look under the bonnet? John Christchurch, NZ - Fri 01st January 2010 01:09pm (GMT)

Subject : What is wrong with my 95 terrano r50. Is it the MAF or is it the earth strap of is it the fuel pump. Gary or John please help. She runs at a low ruff idle of 0625rpm. I start her up, back up, turn the wheel and it usually does a big surge in revz and or cuts out? Runs other wise quite fine. Please help a fellow Kiwi Hamish MacDonald takapuna, New Zealand - Mon 28th December 2009 08:45am (GMT)

Subject : Re : Gary, I think you might, indeed have the problem with the ground strap to the engine. It's the cheapest possibility, just put a wire capable of taking 10 amps from a bolt on the engine to a bolt on the firewall so the engine has a good ground. If that works, problem solved. Happy New Year John Christchurch, NZ - Fri 01st January 2010 01:19pm (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : Oops, that should read "Hamish". Sorry. John NZ - Fri 01st January 2010 01:41pm (GMT)

Subject : nissan terrano 11 R3M td27t 1994 import wbyd21 is the water pump interchangable with any other td27t. got prices ranging from £38.00 to £150.00? mick boston, lincs, UK - Sun 27th December 2009 08:38pm (GMT)

Subject : Re : nissan terrano 11 R3M td27t 1994 import wbyd21 Water pumps should all be interchangeable, and it's up to the seller to ask whatever price they think they can get. Some pumps are pattern pieces not original equipment;bvut may still do a great job just like the original. In NZ, the pumps come complete with the viscous coupling to which you bolt the fan. Oh, check the fan for splits, that is another failure point, and if it splits completely it can carve a hole in your radiator. My pump needed replacement at 114,000km, I replaced it with a pattern part which had a stainless steel impeller just like the original,and I replaced my fan at 144,000km when I counted 7 splits at the hub, also with a pattern part. Hope this helps John Christchurch, NZ - Fri 01st January 2010 01:27pm (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : nissan terrano 11 R3M td27t 1994 import wbyd21 thanks for the reply,just save me £90.00.only had the truck 6 months and use it in my work for infield response ain't got it stuck so far.thanks again mick boston, lincs, UK - Sat 02nd January 2010 08:12pm (GMT)

Subject : terrano front brake fault in wet can someone help please ?terrano 2.7td,2002,problem is when in wet driving conditions when footbrake applied,foot brake pedal drops to floor,pulsating,wheel locks up and makes a shuddering noise,very dangerous,thought it might be abs problem,but no lights on dashboard when this happens to indicate this,the brakes work perfect in dry conditions,new front brake pads aswell,would really appreciate help,thanks mick wigan, england, UK - Fri 25th December 2009 01:27pm (GMT)

Subject : Re : terrano front brake fault in wet Dear Wigan, the Terrano has disk brakes all round. I have just been on holiday and drove through a river each day, and got the same horrible shuddering when braking for the first time after drowning the brakes. It feels like the pedal is going to the floor, there is so little braking.But it does eventually stop. The solution is to apply the brakes lightly, then increasingly heavily to wipe the water off the disks and allow the pads to contact the drying disks. If you drive in absolute downpours, you may want to do this every so often just to keep the brakes as dry as possible, without overdoing it. Hope this helps. John Christchurch, NZ - Fri 01st January 2010 01:34pm (GMT) Subject : Re : terrano front brake fault in wet Mick, just re read your query and clicked that you have ABS. It sounds like you need a brake expert pretty quickly, and you are right, what you describe is dangerous. My Terrano does not have ABS, and acts as above after crossing rivers. But not just driving on a wet road. Good luck, but get it fixed before it kills you..or someone else. John Christchurch, NZ - Thu 14th January 2010 04:54am (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : terrano front brake fault in wet first of all thanks for your reply,fixed them at last,connected fault code reader to data connection and no faults stored so it wasnt abs fault after all,was talking to a brake expert and he said hed had this problem loads of times before,he told me it was rear brake problem,shoes would need replacing,had replaced pads previous as discs on front,turned out he was spot on,replaced shoes and bingo,perfect,just shows brakes worked great in dry and past brake test for mot,but that little unbalance on brakes was lethal in wet conditions,hope this helps somebody else if they ever get problem mick wigan, england, UK - Wed 27th January 2010 07:54pm (GMT)

Subject : Mr Hi, I would like to purchase a nose cut and a bonnet for a 1998 Nissan Regulas. shahim Lautoka, Fiji Islands, UK - Fri 25th December 2009 08:41am (GMT)

Subject : LACK OF POWER I have a terrano2.7td,the orange management light came on the engine kept going but not much power.switched engine off ,restarted light went off and engine back to normal.Any ideas. DAVID HEATHCOTE BIDDULPH, STAFFS, UK - Thu 24th December 2009 09:57pm (GMT)

Subject : Re : LACK OF POWER See previous and following posts re bad ground engine to chassis. By restarting engine you are "rebooting" computer; could indicate bad ground. Run wire capable of carrying 10amp current from bolt on engine to bolt on firewall. Hope this helps. John Christchurch, NZ - Fri 01st January 2010 01:40pm (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : LACK OF POWER Many thanks for reply,i will certainly try this,dave h. david heathcote biddulph, staffs, UK - Sat 02nd January 2010 05:25pm (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : Re : LACK OF POWER Did this work???? I hate mysteries! John Christchurch, NZ - Thu 11th March 2010 06:23am (GMT)

Subject : Screeching Wiper Blades The wiper blades on my Terrano 2.7 constantly screech. I have tried all make of blades; from cheap to top range. i have cleaned the windsreen using everything from T-cut to vinegar and absolutely nothing works. Does anyone have any suggestions before it drives me mad! Thanks Andrew Steeples Alfreton, Derbyshire, UK - Thu 24th December 2009 12:39pm (GMT)

Subject : Re : Screeching Wiper Blades had the same problem,had a look,turned out to be wiper bearing on passenger side, the spline sits into,gone oval,check for play,cost £20 to do it myself,wipers now silent,great mick wigan, england, UK - Fri 25th December 2009 01:08pm (GMT) Subject : Re : Screeching Wiper Blades i have the same problem.could you tell me the part number or where you got the part from as nissan are telling me i have to buy the whole spindle which is quite expensive.many thanks. MARK milton keynes, bucks, UK - Mon 08th February 2010 05:48pm (GMT)

Subject : '95 NISSAN MISTRAL Last night whilst driving in icey/snowy weather in 4H at approx 45mph a strong smell of gas/rubber along with smoke from LHS of engine. Put back into 2H and drove home no probs. Drove today no probs or smoke etc etc, but a strong residual gas/rubber smell! Any ideas anyone?? is it oil from the transfer box/diff? and what should i do??? dave newcastle, UK - Sun 20th December 2009 04:46pm (GMT)

Subject : Re : '95 NISSAN MISTRAL Dave, I take it you opened the bonnet and saw the smoke curling up on the left side of the engine. I presume you means the left side as you look forward from the driver's seat? Diff oil has a high sulphur content and smells really badly if it burns (like rotten eggs). Check the seals on the front drive shafts at the diff, leaking oil can be thrown up onto the exhaust and burn. It points more and more towards a leak from the diff, stuffed seal/torn boot and may be very obvious. What do you do? Best thing is to thoroughly check and clean the whole area of the diff, axles, drive shaft boots, sump, etc. and go for another drive to see what is leaking and where. CHECK THE LEVEL IN THE FRONT DIFF FIRST. Hope this helps. John Christchurch, NZ - Fri 01st January 2010 01:58pm (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : '95 NISSAN MISTRAL Yes the lhs from drivers seat! RHD model! Is this still drivable? Typical as I've just spent about £600 on other things!!!! John you're a star! Happy New Year dave blake newcastle, UK - Fri 01st January 2010 04:35pm (GMT)

Subject : 95 nissan navara noise I own a 95 nissan navara 27dt 4x4 doublecab. It makes strange groaning and grinding noises and shudders occasionaly while driving around which stop if i pull over. The garage doesnt know whats wrong as the noise goes away when i take it in to get it looked at so they cant source the problem. Has anyone had this problem and how can i fix it? daniel invercargill, NZ - Sat 19th December 2009 12:24am (GMT)

Subject : Re : 95 nissan navara noise Daniel, Where is the noise coming from, front, back, middle of vehicle? Do you have a LSD in the rear? Do you give the $WD system a workout each month to keep everything working smoothly? Have you had any problem with the front automatic hub locks? John Christchurch, NZ - Sat 02nd January 2010 10:33am (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : 95 nissan navara noise Hi, im fairly sure its mid located noise but as i said once ive pulled over and carry on again the noise dissapears so is kind of hard to tell seeing you cant get out and walk along side while its happening. Almost sounds like something rubbing on the wheel which then becomes more like a colapsed wheel bearing or grinding. Im pretty sure its not an LSD model, and also has manual lock hubs that get some use every month or two which as far as i know havent had any troubles but we all know car sales have a lovely way of beeing able to bend the truth. Its a kiwi new model if that means anything oh and apolagies, its a 92 model not a 95 . daniel invercargill, newzealand - Thu 07th January 2010 10:14pm (GMT)

Subject : TD27 oil dip stick Hello, I just purchased a nissan terrano 1996 model with the TD27 engine. the oil dipstick is not original and looks way to short. could anyone tell me the lenght of the original dip stick please? thank you! Marco Senigallia, Italy, Italy - Sat 12th December 2009 08:14am (GMT)

Subject : Re : TD27 oil dip stick will have the answer to your question in a day or two if you're still interested. let me know. have a nice day. Avi Hadera, Israel - Sat 26th December 2009 08:45am (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : TD27 oil dip stick Yes I am still looking for the proper lenght of the oil dipstick... other than that I am enjoing my Terrano!! thanks. Marco UK - Sat 26th December 2009 07:34pm (GMT)

Subject : no throttle i own a 2004 terrano 11 manual 2.7 td, recently it has started to loose accelerator response, repeatedly pressing the pedal does nothing sometimes changing clears it and throttle working normal sometimes i have to stop and restart the engine to clear fault can anyone advise me please many thanks in advance tony tony derby, derbys, UK - Fri 11th December 2009 08:59pm (GMT)

Subject : Re : no throttle Tony, See posts re an extra ground strap between the engine and the firewall. Hope this helps. John NZ - Fri 01st January 2010 02:01pm (GMT)

Subject : Navara wheels on a Terrano I have a Terrano on a "99 "V" plate and the wheels and tyres are standard, the tyres are 235/70/16. Will the later Navara / Pathfinder wheels / tyres fit? Thanks N. Bunney preston, Lancashire, UK - Tue 08th December 2009 09:55pm (GMT)

Subject : Indicator playing up The rear passenger side indicator on my terrano keeps not working then all of a sudden it will work and when i put my trailer onto car it works fine and will continue working until i remove the trailer and then it will work for a little while before it stops again, the front still works but flashes like made, could it be a loose connection. sally soton, hants, UK - Tue 08th December 2009 02:40pm (GMT)

Subject : Re : Indicator playing up Check all your indicator bulbs by opening the housings and taking them out. Then clean the crud out of the sockets using an electrical contact cleaner from a spray can, and spray and clean all the bulb contacts with a cloth. If any of the bulbs are quite black or have a silvery coating on the inside, replace them as they are nearing the end of their lives. It wouldn't hurt to do the parking lights at the same time as they suffer from water and dust ingress, too. The mad flashing usually indicates that one of the bulbs in that circuit is dead, or not making contact due to crud. Time to do a some easy maintenance. Hope this helps. John Christchurch, NZ - Fri 01st January 2010 02:10pm (GMT)

Subject : key fob can anyone help, i have an o5 xtrail, my key fob will not work, i can open the car by key only. i changed the battery, still no joy,the alarm light works as normal when car is locked. refards graham. Graham.Hall dundee, angus, UK - Tue 08th December 2009 12:44pm (GMT)

Subject : Re : key fob some of those types of keys need to be programmed to that specific car due to different frequencies have a look at the manual to see if they have to be programmed in, some cars ya need a code or try turning the key and holding the lock button then turn to unlock and push lock button at the same time then again to the lock position and pushing the lock button again then start it up turn it off and see if it will work. hope that helps ya james walsh Dunedin, new zealsnd, new zealand - Tue 05th January 2010 06:18am (GMT)

Subject : Wheels Can anyone tell me if Nevada/Pathfinder wheels will fit a 1999 "V" plate Terrano? Thanks Bryan Lockhart Dundee, Tayside, UK - Thu 03rd December 2009 10:43am (GMT)

Subject : nissan navara hi my navara has just had an engine and recon turbo change after fitting it is reluctent to start, it wont rev at all and it is billowing thick black smoke can anyone help please . mark pwllheli, gwynedd, UK - Wed 02nd December 2009 05:46pm (GMT)

Subject : Re : nissan navara Take it back to whoever fitted the engine and recon turbo. They haven't finished the job. Hope this helps. John Christchurch, NZ - Fri 01st January 2010 02:11pm (GMT)

Subject : Nissan Safari/Patrol/Maverik Y60 speedometer My 1989 GQ Y60 Safari (Ex Japan Model) also known as a maverik in America has a speedo and a tacho problem. The speedometer needle immediately flicks over to 200km/hr when wnen you turn on the ignition. The tacho is stuck at around 2000 rpm when you start the car. I am told this is a known fault? I have a freiend who is gifted in electronics and if I have info on this repair he can fix it. What is the known problem with these?? Jolyon Russell - New Zealand - Tue 01st December 2009 09:28pm (GMT)

Subject : hi my terrano was chucking sparks out from the exhaust and alter no sparks but a little bit of black smoke also it was running hot after 70 mph. can you help and advise me terry st annes, lancs, UK - Mon 30th November 2009 06:19pm (GMT)

Subject : Re : Is it diesel or petrol powered ? Gary - Tue 01st December 2009 08:10am (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : hi it diesel but it dosen't have a cat converter terry st annes, lancs, UK - Tue 01st December 2009 08:10pm (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : Re : What im thinking here is carbon build up that is possablely smoldering there for causeing the sparking and the black smoke. IE when you clean out a 2 stroke exaust system by burning the carobn and blowing compressed air down the pipe the smoke and sparking is some what awsum to see. Gary NZL - Wed 02nd December 2009 09:56am (GMT)

Subject : 94 Mistral 7 seater 2.7td In the last week or so, as I have been driving along I have noticed the red handbrake warning light come on - the handbrake lever was definitely not the problem. I stopped the car and put it in neutral (it's automatic) and the light goes out. The car drives as normal. Does anyone know why this would happen? Stevo york, n yorks, UK - Sat 28th November 2009 09:31am (GMT)

Subject : Re : 94 Mistral 7 seater 2.7td possibly could need more brake fluid in the reservoir under the bonnet . has a low level switch in there when brake fluid is getting low . hope this helps . steve Ashburton, canterbury, nz - Sun 29th November 2009 09:57am (GMT) Subject : Re : 94 Mistral 7 seater 2.7td If brake fluid level is ok it is probably low vacuum sensorfaulty or rubber tube leading to it blocked with oil(ussuming it is a diesel)at rear of alternator is the vacuum pump for the brake booster, one of the small tubes running away from the outlet goes to a sensor switch, take the plug off and see if the light goes out neill Tauranga, NZ - Sun 29th November 2009 09:14pm (GMT)

Subject : nissan mistral 2.7 D the bottom crank pully is making a noise and moving in and out a little bit bryan auckland city, newzealand, newzealand - Fri 27th November 2009 07:07pm (GMT)

Subject : Re : nissan mistral 2.7 D Pully is rubber mounted and is slipping by the sounds of it,happened to us, pulley will have to be replaced if it is neill Tauranga, nz - Tue 01st December 2009 05:08am (GMT) Subject : Re : nissan mistral 2.7 D Hi, I had the same on my mistral. when it fails you will have no drive to any of the fan belts so replace it asap. The hardest part is getting the crankshaft pulley nut pf ( 40mm af) fix the socket onto a good tommy bar and give the ignition key a quick tweak and the bar bill catch the side of the inner wing ( which should be protected by a piece of timber) the woodruff key on the crank should be replaced at the sametime because it will be worn. good luck Tom Tom Helsby liverpool, UK - Fri 01st January 2010 12:09pm (GMT)

Subject : nissan mistral wont start! Hi im hoping someone will be able to help! last week my car would not start as if there was not enough power to turn the engine, i left it a couple of hours and tryed again and this time it started! Today i have tryed to start the car but no joy, my hubby jump started it and left it running when i went to check on the car the engine was no longer running any ideas? do you think i need a new battery? thanks sarah episkopi, cyprus - Fri 27th November 2009 11:28am (GMT)

Subject : Re : nissan mistral wont start! I would say by now that you have replaced the battery and probably the alternator as well. The two are usually linked..the alternator gives up the ghost, the battery flattens..fit a new battery..things OK for a couple of days..then battery flattens again. Before replacing a battery, have an auto electrician check the alternator's performance. The alternator, if faulty, is just as likely to damage a new battery as the old one. I can make my battery last 7 plus years. Only fill with distilled water, and check it regularly, especially in Summer or in hot climates. Lack of water kills batteries faster than almost anything else, except a bad alternator. Hope this helps. John Christchurch, NZ - Fri 01st January 2010 02:20pm (GMT)

Subject : panel lights I have just noticed that my door open warning light and seat belt warning ligh are not working, are these likely to be on a fuse? or the bulbs blown? how do i get to them any help would be appreciated.I have a 96 Terrano import KD PR50 Rick Canewdon, Essex, UK - Mon 23rd November 2009 06:31pm (GMT)

Subject : Re : panel lights Buy a cheap multi-meter. Set it on the 20 volt scale. Clamp the black probe to earth on a metal part of the vehicle.(to earth) Turn the ignition to "ACC" and start probing the top and bottom of each of the fuses in the fusebox with the red probe. There is a small exposed portion on the fuse head, top and bottom, just for this purpose. You will find one that doesn't have 12 volts running through it i.e. the bottom of the fuse has 12v, the top will have "0" . This is the blown fuse. Replace this fuse with one of the correct rating. The rating should be displayed on the lid of the fusebox. Even if you can't read Japanese, you can see the rating in amps there. Hope this helps. John Christchurch, NZ - Sat 02nd January 2010 10:24am (GMT)

Subject : ZD30 reliability Ive had a 93 td27 for 11 years and the auto finally broke @ 620 000 kms but motor still going well-would like to replace vehicle with later model but have heard good and bad about ZD30-would I be better to go for QD32 and hope to get same reliability or is it all about how one looks after maintainance and servicing? Any opinions?... ashley rosevear tauranga, new zealand - Mon 23rd November 2009 07:22am (GMT)

Subject : Re : ZD30 reliability Have heard of a few horror storys with the early zd 30s . melting pistons , some sort of problem with mass air flow sensors giving wrong signal to the injector pump and over fueling . I have terrano qd 32 , great truck but have had few problems with mass air flow sensors as well . My machanic still thinks td 27 still best motor for reliability , pity about the power . There still a few of the r 50 terranos with the td 27t getting around . steve Ashburton, canterbury, nz - Sun 29th November 2009 10:08am (GMT) Subject : Re : ZD30 reliability What a great run, 620,000k before the auto gives up! There are also other websites, especially Australian, pretty scathing about the ZD30. If your vehicle isn't too tatty everywhere else, what about replacing the auto and continuing on? When you get to 1 million kms, Nissan may have made something reliable again! Go for it.... John Christchurch, NZ - Sat 02nd January 2010 10:43am (GMT) Subject : Re : ZD30 reliability This may help in your decision http://www.motorsm.com/complaints/update/display.asp?aid=69 John Christchurch, NZ - Sat 02nd January 2010 10:00pm (GMT)

Subject : workshop manals I have the WD21 Terrano V6 and the 2.4 diesel maunals here and also a very simplifyed one for the WD21 TD 2.7 T. Even though its a V6 one the chassis and body mechanicals are the same ive found it very useful even owning the TD 2.7 myself. if you would like a copy let me know oh and you will need a google account as google will accept files up to 10gig in one hit and there are about 18 files to the V6 one and around 8 for the TD 2.7 T one. Gary - N Z L - Sun 22nd November 2009 08:38am (GMT)

Subject : Re : workshop manals Hi Garry, Would you have any info on 5 sp manaul gear box am currently trying to rebuild one from bits.any info much appericated. Matt matt sandford Hawera, Traranki, nz - Sun 27th December 2009 10:21pm (GMT) Subject : Re : workshop manals please can you send me a manual edward stanway davao, mindanao, philippines - Sun 24th January 2010 06:13am (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : workshop manals can anyone please send me a manual or any technical information on a terrano r3mr 1996 japanese import pr505713 3.200L i will be back in the uk in feb am willing to pay,also left hand door mirror please edward stanway davao, mindanao, philippines - Wed 27th January 2010 02:15pm (GMT)

Subject : m.a.p sencor Hi i have a 1994 nissan Mistral and i have been told the m.a.p sencor is playing up any one know whare i can get one from please paul tidman Jarrow, Tyne & Wear, UK - Sat 21st November 2009 12:16pm (GMT)

Subject : Re : m.a.p sencor Hi its not a MAP sensor you require its a MAF (Mass Air Flow) tou can buy these from your local Nissan dealer or of ebay, but they are not cheap Rick Rick Canewdon, Essex, UK - Mon 23rd November 2009 06:25pm (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : m.a.p sencor sorry but nissan mistral has no MAF sencor on it just a small map sencor paul jarrow, tyne&wear, UK - Mon 23rd November 2009 06:43pm (GMT)

Subject : Engine Stalling I have a Nissan Terrano2 2.7 TDi SE Auto. Vehicle runs fine then all of a sudden, especially when placing into drive or putting power steering on full lock, engine revs do not step up and engine stalls, engine management light comes on, car still runs fairly well even if a little "smoky". Then after an hour or two, or sometimes a few days the light goes out and wer'e back to normal. But it can stall at a busy traffic light junction, and with an auto this isn't fun. Any Ideas? Regards, Bernard Clayton. Bernard Clayton Leigh-on-Sea, Essex, UK - Tue 17th November 2009 12:17am (GMT)

Subject : Re : Engine Stalling Crazy as it sounds, the earth strap between the engine and the body,may need to be replaced or supplemented by another. In the US they had problems with corrosion affecting the earthing points on the body. Since your computer needs a certain amount of current return via earth strap from the engine to the body to make the revs rise in hard lock situations, that would be my first thought. Lack of this earthing is affecting the computer, which then has to "relearn" settings, which is why after a couple of days all is again well. Fix a 10amp rated cable from a bolt on the engine to a bright clean earth point under a bolt on the firewall and see if that makes any difference. This temporary fix doesn't have to look good, but you could get a professional to make a proper one if this solves the problem. If this doesn't help, you may have to have a diagnosis done with a computer scanner; see previous posts. Hope this helps. John Christchurch, NZ - Tue 17th November 2009 12:28pm (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : Engine Stalling Thanks for the help John! I will check this idea at the weekend. Weather's a bit too stormy right now. Regards, Bernard Bernard Clayton Leigh-on-Sea, Essex, UK - Wed 18th November 2009 12:44pm (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : Engine Stalling Do you think I possibly have this problem? please read post 28/12/09 Hamish MacDonald takapuna, New Zealand - Mon 28th December 2009 08:50am (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : Re : Engine Stalling Hamish, yes. If you find that the new earth strap solves the problem, could you let us know,please? Thanks. John Christchurch, NZ - Wed 13th January 2010 03:11am (GMT)

Subject : Heater Matrix Hi to all! Got my '95 Mistral cooling system flushed recently and lately have had a hissing noise moslty when under load from the gearbox/glove compartment area. Think its from the heater matrix??? Is this hard to get to and/or replace? Cheers Dave Dave Blake Newcastle, Tyne & Wear, UK - Mon 16th November 2009 11:44pm (GMT)

Subject : Re : Heater Matrix If your friendly flusher did not use distilled water when refilling the radiator system, then for a short while anyway the ordinary water will be having the oxygen thrashed out of it while it circulates. I usually have to top up about a litre of water/antifreeze after the first 50km, (I use ordinary water,too and I check level in radiator neck, and overflow bottle) Once that has ben done I have found it "uses" no coolant for the next year or so! That hissing sound is air in the heater matrix. Turn your heater on full, run it for 50km or so, and the hissing should disappear as the air gets thrashed out by the circulation. If there is no overwhelming smell of coolant or wet carpets, then there is no leak. And you really, really don't want to have to take out the heater core.... Hope this helps. John Christchurch, NZ - Tue 17th November 2009 12:39pm (GMT)

Subject : compensator spring has anyone got, or knows where ican get a rear offside brake compensator spring fron for a nissan terrano 2 slx 1995 mreg please.thanks.. malc reynolds sheffield, southyorkshire, UK - Wed 11th November 2009 06:50pm (GMT)

Subject : Re : compensator spring The only places i can think of mate are: 1) Ebay - loads of Terrano's breaking and they'll usually deliver! 2) Local Scrapyard. 3) Nissan Dealer (re-mortgage) Cheers Dave dave blake UK - Mon 16th November 2009 11:38pm (GMT) Subject : Re : compensator spring hi try these guys they are in welshpool but they do mail order i find them pretty handy for my navara as nissan is all they do .their number is 01938555750. mark pwllheli, gwynedd, UK - Wed 02nd December 2009 06:02pm (GMT)

Subject : 97 Nissan Regulus Windscreen Washer Woes Hiya What a great forum! See some amazing info shared. My problem is small compared to some, but I am experiencing intermittent windscreen washer action. The rear one works fine, and I assume they share the same motor for the washer water pump (?). The front wipers work ok. the washer water though sometimes works, sometimes not. All the bonnet nozzles are clear and the hoses are connected to them. I am unsure of how to get in to check the bottom of the washer water reservoir to see if maybe the hose is loose at the bottom of this and the driving (bumps etc) is wobbling it about a bit. Any suggestions? Steve Wellington, Wellington, NZ - Mon 09th November 2009 05:39am (GMT)

Subject : Re : 97 Nissan Regulus Windscreen Washer Woes we had similar problems on our mistral . turned out there was two pumps at the bottom of the bottle and one had let water through to the electric motor . the motor and pump just pulled out of the bottle and put a second hand one in . the wrecker said very common fault with the nissan washer pumps . not sure how you get to washer bottle as its down in front of the radiator on your truck ? steve Ashburton, nz - Mon 09th November 2009 08:58am (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : 97 Nissan Regulus Windscreen Washer Woes Thanks Steve - so much for my assumption of the one pump :) will roll up the sleeves and see what I can get into down there - yes, it is down the front surrounded with radiator, battery and sump guard. Steve Wellington, Wellington, NZ - Mon 09th November 2009 09:23am (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : 97 Nissan Regulus Windscreen Washer Woes Hi I have a 96 import Nissan Terrano Import, looks the same as RM3 wide bodied, and my washer pump has failed reading this forum i see its common fault. my question is are the washer pumps the same as the UK model or do I need to get one from an import? mine is also behind the grill looks as tho its behind the drivers headlamp. Can anyone help Rick ROCHFORD, Essex, UK - Wed 11th November 2009 08:14pm (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : Re : 97 Nissan Regulus Windscreen Washer Woes The Nissan parts bin is a "chop and change" affair; you may find that a pump in the UK from a common Nissan saloon may fit and work just fine. Best way to find out is dig the old suspect one out, test it with 12 volts,test the supply from the switch (just in case!) and if the pump is knackered take it to a Nissan wrecker and ask "Please sir, do you have something like this?" Hope this helps John Christchurch, NZ - Tue 17th November 2009 12:46pm (GMT)

Subject : I have a 1997 Nissan 3.2 regulus and the engine miss fires at idle or just above. The check engine light flashes and I believe the problem is in the electronic side of the injector pump. Has anyone in NZ had this problem and if so where did they get it fixed and how much Andrew Barnes Auckland, New Zealand - Sun 08th November 2009 08:06pm (GMT)

Subject : Re : Check previous posts especially re No1. injector lift sensor and MAF sensor. John Christchurch, NZ - Tue 17th November 2009 12:18pm (GMT) Subject : Re : Hi, I have the same vehicle and have experienced 2 problems. If the engine is actually cutting out it is most probably the crank position sensor (common fault). It bolts to the front of the engine and is easy to have checked by an auto sparky using the on board computer. (Fault code) If it is surging at idle, it is the injection pump idle valve sticking due to the low sulpher diesel not having enough lubricant for the Zexel (Bosch) fuel pump. You can either pay $2500 - $3000 to get the pump recond, or add half a cup of 2 stroke oil to every tank to keep the pump lubed (like me). Good luck. Neville Nordmeyer Christchurch, NZ - Tue 15th December 2009 08:52am (GMT) Subject : Re : I have since had the fuel pump serviced by Diesel Tune and Turbo in New Lyn. The fault codes in the ecu were 18 and 22 The entire job was just under NZD 2000 and the car runs perfectly now . They did a great job and were very reasonable Andrew Barnes Auckland, New Zealand - Wed 16th December 2009 05:18am (GMT)

Subject : nissan terrano 11 would any one know why my heater fan will only work on setting 4 many thanks kevin london, UK - Sun 08th November 2009 01:52pm (GMT)

Subject : Re : nissan terrano 11 Below glovebox there is a Small sensor on heater box " resistor" . This will be your problem . Cheers Ken Ken NZ - Wed 11th November 2009 10:19am (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : nissan terrano 11 Hi Ken Thanks for your help Kevin Kevin London, UK - Wed 11th November 2009 06:31pm (GMT)

Subject : Mistral won't start Hi could anybody help me? I have a 96 Mistral import 2.7td Lwb. It has been running fine until 2 days ago when i tried to start it. the glow plug light goes out as normal and when i turn the key it just cranks over without any sign of firing. It has 1/3 tank of diesel so isn't out of fuel. Paul Newcastle, tyne and wear, UK - Wed 04th November 2009 12:00pm (GMT)

Subject : Re : Mistral won't start you need to check the heater plugs ,just because the light on the dash is working does not mean the plugs are all working steve tekesbury, glos, UK - Wed 11th November 2009 09:05pm (GMT)

Subject : funny vibration noise hi seem to be having a bit of trouble with my 03 nissan terrano sport, not sure how long its been going on for, but having just noticed it, whenever i get to 50 mph my car sounds as if everything is vibrating and gets very noisy but the steering wheel does vibrate at all, as soon as past 50 mph everything goes quiet again, any ideas and if its a major thing as i tow my horse trailer alot with this car. Thank you sally southampton, Hampshire, UK - Mon 02nd November 2009 02:40pm (GMT)

Subject : Re : funny vibration noise sorry was ment to say there is no vibration on steering wheel when this happens. sally soton, hants, UK - Mon 02nd November 2009 02:42pm (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : funny vibration noise check tyres for any irregular wear or small bulges,or rear wheel balance neither of these will effect the steering steve tekesbury, glos, UK - Wed 11th November 2009 08:59pm (GMT) Subject : Re : funny vibration noise Three things come to mind: The universal joints in the rear drive line are wearing; The sliding joint in the rear driveshaft is wearing (check and grease the sliding joint) The control arm bushes are succumbing to the extra pressure that a towed float puts on them while you are accelerating to 50mph. They can be replaced with polyurethane bushes which resist twisting better, and wear better as well. One last thing, if you have an automatic gearbox, I hope you have installed an auxilliary transmission cooler in line with the original cooler in the bottom of the radiator to cool the auto down whilst towing. This will save lots of money in not having to rebuild the auto through overheating. Hope this helps. John Christchurch, NZ - Sun 03rd January 2010 06:39am (GMT)

Subject : Not Sure of the 4x4 drive It's Pat again, I have a Nissan X-Trail dCi and I would like to know how does it gets into the off road 4x4 locking drive. Please can someone give me some advice Thank You very much. Pat. Pat Henry Jamestown, St Helena, UK - Sun 01st November 2009 08:49pm (GMT)

Subject : nissan x trail dci dear all, i would like to know how the 4wd for this above vehicle works, it does not have a 4x4 switch maybe it has a auto locking system for of off road it has a manual transmission type a/b the owners is not very clear, this is a new vehicle. Thank you. Pat Henry jamestown, st helena, UK - Sun 01st November 2009 10:58am (GMT)

Subject : Re : nissan x trail dci Please can someone give me some advice Thank you Pat Henry jamestown, St Helena, UK - Sun 01st November 2009 11:20am (GMT) Subject : Re : nissan x trail dci If you bought this vehicle new, there should be a manual with it. The dealer should be only to happy to help you, after you spent all that money, with any questions you have. He may even arrange to demonstrate the system. Hope this helps. John Christchurch, NZ - Sat 02nd January 2010 10:46am (GMT)

Subject : not sure whats its called? hi typical women here, but on my nissan terrano under the wheelarch i noticed something was hanging off, it looks like a rubber mat type thing that is stuck to wheelarch to possibly protect engine from mud and stuff being thrown up from road, what is it called as obviously need to get it sorted and dont want to come across as a idiot when i have to ask for the said part. sally cotter southampton, hampshire, UK - Sat 31st October 2009 11:49am (GMT)

Subject : Re : not sure whats its called? Sally, Those rubber mat type things are exactly what you said they were, there to stop mud and water being splashed up into the engine compartment. You should find that there are holes in them, and plastic pegs which push into the chassis and body to hold them in place. Just reattach the rubber mats to the pegs, or remove and use the old mats as templates for new ones, because the chances of finding a set of these at the dealers are as likely as a snowball in hell. It's nothing high tech, just sheet rubber cut to size. Hope this helps. John Christchurch, NZ - Sat 31st October 2009 08:55pm (GMT)

Subject : nissan terrano 11 se 2.7 d hi can any one help having problem with terrano. when put foot on gas dose not like going over 2000 rpm gose very lumpy revs drop in all gears is it pump,injecters, turbo unit ect also ticking sound from top enging phil dawlish, devon, UK - Thu 29th October 2009 01:00pm (GMT)

Subject : Re : nissan terrano 11 se 2.7 d Read the previous posts in relation to similar problems already covered. John Christchurch, NZ - Thu 29th October 2009 01:15pm (GMT) Subject : Re : nissan terrano 11 se 2.7 d sorry mo help what so ever phil dawlish, devon, UK - Thu 29th October 2009 05:40pm (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : nissan terrano 11 se 2.7 d See previous posts re restricted revs..fuel filters etc John Christchurch, NZ - Fri 30th October 2009 03:29am (GMT)

Subject : nissan terrano 11 se 2.7 d hi can any one help having problem with terrano. when put foot on gas dose not like going over 2000 rpm gose very lumpy revs drop in all gears is it pump,injecters, turbo unit ect phil dawlish, devon, UK - Thu 29th October 2009 12:57pm (GMT)

Subject : Re : nissan terrano 11 se 2.7 d As above;read previous posts covering this and solutions. John Christchurch, NZ - Thu 29th October 2009 01:17pm (GMT)

Subject : nissan terrano2.7 tdi There is a loud whirring noise whilst driving and it goes away when you slow down to a stop this is followed by a loud thunk then all is well. I have asked mechanics & they say they need to hear it but it is intermitent bernard kerr dalry, ayrshire, UK - Thu 29th October 2009 09:16am (GMT)

Subject : Re : nissan terrano2.7 tdi When does this noise and clunk occur? Is it when the engine is cold, it's raining, the road is rough, the road is smooth, or only on Mondays? Does it happen after you have used 4 wheel drive? Do you disengage 4WD properly on a loose surface, and move the vehicle 3 to 4 metres in reverse in a straight line after disengaging 4wd? When you move forward, does the vehicle pull to one side or the other, until the whir and clunk at your next stop (locking hubs not working properly) Where does the "whir" come from, the front, the engine, the rear, the axle What speeds does it happen, after hard acceleration,or steady speed, or coasting on low throttle? Where does the "clunk" come from: front or back, left or right and how soon after you stop? Your mechanic needs this info to diagnose the problem as well, so keep a log of these events covering all these points; it may make his crystal ball work. Hope this helps John Christchurch, NZ - Thu 29th October 2009 01:32pm (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : nissan terrano2.7 tdi Thanks for replying! The noise comes at various times whilst driving, not at start and at various speeds, I rarely accelerate hard but it can occur then also, average speed when it occurs is 30 but can also be at 50. It happens on the flat and on hills. noise sounds like the middle front, I thought the gearbox, I have put it into neutral and coasted to see if noise would stop but it did not. The car drives normally there is noting untoward apart from the noise. b kerr dalry, ayrshire, UK - Fri 30th October 2009 09:52am (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : nissan terrano2.7 tdi Sorry forgot to add. 4wd has not been used when this has occured. And the road surface is a normal surface "A" road b kerr dalry, ayrshire, UK - Fri 30th October 2009 09:56am (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : Re : nissan terrano2.7 tdi Now we're getting somewhere. Does the noise increase and decrease with the speed of the vehicle, rather than the speed of the engine? If so, it is somewhere in the drive line. Check the fluid levels in all the gearboxes, diffs etc as a start, and while you are under the vehicle, look for any loose objects/fittings on the drive line or touching it. Sometimes a piece of plastic bag or similar can wrap round a driveshaft, and sometimes a shopping bag can wrap round a CV joint and rip the rubber cover to bits. Hope this helps. John Christchurch, NZ - Fri 30th October 2009 01:17pm (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : Re : Re : nissan terrano2.7 tdi Thanks John. I will check the fluids etc., But that does not explain that it only occurs sometimes and when I slow to amost a stop it clunks as if it was forcing something into position, which eliminates the noise. b kerr dalry, ayrshire, UK - Mon 02nd November 2009 01:34pm (GMT)

Subject : auto box in gq efi could any one tell me if and how a auto out of a 1990 da ford maverick carby can fit to a 1992 efi gq patrol one has bigger tork converter but if i change flex plate will this work sean adelaide, sa, UK - Wed 28th October 2009 11:13pm (GMT)

Subject : Re : auto box in gq efi hi all looking for Flex Plate for terrano II 2.7 tdi a/t gunnar grindavik, reykjanes, is - Mon 22nd March 2010 11:24pm (GMT)

Subject : '95 4x4 pickup blown fuel pump fuse and guage stuck on FULL I just replaced a really fried starter in my 1995 Nissan SE V6 4x4. There was a chassis ground somewhere, apparently, and for a few moments the ground return jumped into the clutch line. After I put in another ground strap for certainty, and was able to start the truck, fuel filter fuses keep blowing and the gas gauge is stuck on FULL. Is there fuel pump? Suggestions? Thanks!! Craig Eugene, OR, USA - Sun 25th October 2009 07:38pm (GMT)

Subject : Nissan Terrano 2 Cooling Fan Hi, I have a '97 Terrano 2, 2.7TD. The coolant gets really hot when towing my boat up the hill to our house, is the small fan infront of the radiator supposed to start up when temperatures get hot? Is the a test for this fan? Thanks Paul - Aus - Sat 24th October 2009 06:03am (GMT)

Subject : Re : Nissan Terrano 2 Cooling Fan That small fan in front of the radiator is mainly for the air conditioning radiator, to force air through it at low vehicle speeds, such as when stopped at traffic lights, with the air con on. It would have a small secondary effect on the main radiator, but you would have to check your coolant mixture (antifreeze/water, your radiator cap (is it old, worn, leaking,losing pressure?) your thermostat (Old, stuck, corroded, not working properly?) your radiator's internal condition (tubes blocked) and your water hoses (old, soft bottom hose collapsing?) the cleanlinesss of the outside of the radiator's surface and last but definitely not least, your thermostatic fan coupling (is it working as it should?) There may also be a misreading of the temperature guage on the dash? Read previous submissions, it will give you a clue what might be happening. Hope this helps John Christchurch, NZ - Thu 29th October 2009 02:14am (GMT) Subject : Re : Nissan Terrano 2 Cooling Fan Had a similar problem,found that an aftermarket thermostat had been fitted at some stage which restricted the coolant flow slightly more than the genuine nissan part neill Tauranga, NZ - Sun 01st November 2009 06:21am (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : Nissan Terrano 2 Cooling Fan Hi Guys, Thanks for the info. I will check out the thermostat, they put a new one in, but I bet its not a Nissan one. Regards, Paul Paul Aus - Sun 01st November 2009 09:08am (GMT)

Subject : nissan hardbody help please where do i find a air filter , oil filter and it has two fuel filters for a 2004 hardbody 3000cc diesel andy bromsgrove, worcestershire, UK - Thu 22nd October 2009 06:13pm (GMT)

Subject : Re : nissan hardbody You either go to a Nissan dealer and ask him, or you go to a parts shop for the DIY trade (I think they are called "factors" in the UK.) Try and get decent "brand name" filters because if you put filters on your vehicle yourself, you only have yourself to blame if you do it wrong. That said, I have been changing filters for 30 years, and only one blew out through the seal (cheap no name oil filter) The main thing is that they do not have to be screwed more than hand tight. To torque them home with a strap wrench or any tool can distort the rubber/nitrile seal, causing a weak spot which lets fluid out (or air in) Read the instructions about wetting the seal with the same fluid it is going to be containing. I find it beneficial to fill the filter with whatever will normally be in it before screwing on hand tight. This means almost instant fuel pressure or oil pressure on start up or priming. This technique only applies if your filters can be screwed into place vertically. Hope this helps John Christchurch, NZ - Thu 22nd October 2009 10:59pm (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : nissan hardbody thanks for the reply from NZ but nissan dealers or anyone else to my knowledge do not stock the filters in the u.k ihave been told that i can get them in south africa ,is this true andy bromsgrove, worcestershire, UK - Fri 23rd October 2009 10:26pm (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : Re : nissan hardbody The oil filter that I use is labeled a FRAM PH9069, and is made in South Africa. The equivalent oil filter made for REPCO, a motor factor in NZ and Australia,is labeled RZ416. I do not know where that is made. An alternative is to get a remote filter adapter, attach it and use a more common filter with an anti drain valve. Persons involved in car racing/drag racing/drifting/hot rodding use these, so that is a start place for enquiries. Look on the web, you will find manufacturers specifications for filters and adapters. Don't give up, if necessary you can replace the fuel filters with a RACOR/Lucas or CAV fitting and locally available filters. Hope this helps. John Christchurch, NZ - Sun 25th October 2009 01:38am (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : Re : Re : nissan hardbody thanks john for the reply i will look in to it and let you know how i got on andy bromsgrove, worcestershire, UK - Tue 27th October 2009 06:15pm (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : nissan hardbody John, can you help me with this embarrassing problem. '91 Terrano was leaking oil from seal on filter. Have drained the sump and unscrewed the oil filter ... but for the life of me I can't work out how to get it out of the engine bay! I've just given up for the night after much frustration. Do I have to remove any parts to get it out? What's the easiest way? Thanks Kev Te Awamutu, NZ - Mon 23rd November 2009 09:28am (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : Re : nissan hardbody Sorry I haven't replied earlier, but I've been on holiday for 2 months and out of range of a computer. I would say that by now you will have gotten that filter out anyway, but the easiest way I have found is to do it when the engine is cold, as the turbo gives a nasty burn (don't ask how I know) Unless someone has put an extra long filter on (and that has happened to me and I was not a happy chappy) the secret is to go through the left front wheel well (easier if you remove the FL wheel) and you drop the filter downwards and rearwards then up and out towards you. It's not easy,eh? But it saves an awful lot of money doing it yourself. John Christchurch, NZ - Fri 01st January 2010 02:32pm (GMT) Subject : Re : nissan hardbody Here is a reference for the ZD30 engine which may be of interest http://users.on.net/~aschulze/ZD30/ZD30 Y61/Reference Document-BW.pdf Hope this helps John Christchurch, NZ - Tue 27th October 2009 01:37am (GMT)

Subject : Regulas 96 R50 Ok i have new glow plugs but even after wainting for the glow plugs to go out its very hard to start and shakes when it starts. will give a slight miss and shake the truck also. but once warm is awesome... anyone know what this is?? alos when turn of the whole truck shakes and makes a banging noise... very weird.. if anyone knows could you email me please kurac69@hotmail.com thanks also does anyone know or have where i can download the workshop manual? thanks Mike auckland, nz, nz - Sun 18th October 2009 11:01am (GMT)

Subject : MISTRAL 95 Exhaust Hi I have a 95 Mistral - got it serviced today and the guy says the front flexi section of the exhaust needs replacing! Are the the same as the 'Terrano' and 'Maverick' of the same year? Cheers Dave dave blake Newcastle, UK - Sun 18th October 2009 01:42am (GMT)

Subject : Re : MISTRAL 95 Exhaust You'd think that would make sense even to Nissan but those flexis are able to be cut off like any other section of exhaust and a new flexi welded in it's place. The critical measurement is the inside diameter, the replacement needs to be as big as the original, if not bigger. Check prices re Nissan original and an exhaust shop replacement. Hope this helps. John Christchurch, NZ - Sun 18th October 2009 08:26am (GMT)

Subject : transmission cooler Hi there,I've got a '97 Mistral (intercooled model) with 3 radiators.I know one is for the engine,one for the air con but was wondering if the third was a transmission cooler and if these were factory fitted on this model? If so does anyone think it might be worth upgrading as it looks quite small. Tony nelson, nz - Wed 14th October 2009 11:32am (GMT)

Subject : Re : transmission cooler Tony, this third radiator will have rubber tubes leading in and out of it. Trace the tubes down to the transmission.Does one tube go from the transmission to the extra radiator, and then into the bottom of the radiator, and on the opposite end of the bottom tank of the radiator, exit back to the transmission? If so this third radiator is an extra one in case you do some towing. You can always replace this extra cooler with a larger one, or plumb another one into the circuit as well. P.S. if you add in the intercooler, you actually have four "radiators"! Hope this helps John Christchurch, NZ - Thu 15th October 2009 08:51am (GMT)

Subject : nissan power windows hello, have just fitted a new window glass in my nissan hardbody 3.0 16v td. its a 2004 model built in south africa. when taking off the door panel the whole big plug on the main electric windows control switch on the drivers door (rh drive) came away from the plug and now theres 12 wires and i dont know where they go. have found a few manuals but they dont show which colour goe where. if anyone out there has the same model and can be bothered, could you take a photo of the underneat main plug so i can see where to fit the wires back. or if anyone knows or has this info in the manual can you explain where they go in the plug top bit. actualy you would need to pull out the plug to see which wire gos where so please be carfull not to pull them off the back, like i did. theres a clip on the side of the plug that you have to hold in with a small screwdriver while pulling the actual plug and not the back. i am in the middle of malawi and theres no dealership or decent garage for miles around, and although i can open and close the windows using the wires i cant seem to get the position right on the switch and i dont want to fry the wiring. thanks in advance for any help you can give. dave barton kande, nkhata bay, malawi - Mon 12th October 2009 01:19pm (GMT)

Subject : front exhaust pipe Hi!Anyone know if a front exhaust pipe can be fitted to a Terrano 2 2.4 lwb without undoing the driveshaft and any other part from underneath? Not much space under there to get a pipe with a bend in it in! Or is there a way to just slide it in from above or from underneath? lawrence natt northampton, UK - Wed 07th October 2009 04:37pm (GMT)

Subject : Re : front exhaust pipe I think it will be a real tight job, judging by the articles on exhaust replacement available on the Web. See especially the South African details. Might have to go on a hoist or over a pit. Hope this helps John Christchurch, NZ - Sun 11th October 2009 04:48am (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : front exhaust pipe Managed to get it welded and save alot of money,,,for now at least.When trying to order the part,alot of places told me its still under development.Would be great if they started making a front pipe in two parts so you could get it on then bolt together once in place without having to take half the car apart to get one on. Many thanks! Lawrence northampton, UK - Sun 11th October 2009 11:45am (GMT)

Subject : shape of it owned 96 mistral 5 door for 5 years and keep forgetting one of the first things learned. Remember that fun thing of blazing through a deepish puddle at pace? thought with a 4x4 things would be easy/fun here, however, am I alone in noticing the "bow wave"actually dumps smack onto the windscreen and blots out all visibility?...any ideas what to do about this? kiano place wai o taiki bay, auckland, NZ - Wed 07th October 2009 03:39am (GMT)

Subject : Re : shape of it Slow down. It's not doing the vehicle any good when speed forces water into where it shouldn't be. When you lose vision, you endanger yourself and anyone else who gets in your way. "Big splashes" are for children. John Christchurch, NZ - Wed 07th October 2009 03:50am (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : shape of it actually speed aint the issue with this, sub 30km's per hour is worst, first "got me" EXITING the panmure roundabout( 20k's perhour if lucky), found it sort of curls and dumps right on the screen.....roofs always been closed.....so far kiano place wai o taiki bay, auckland, NZ - Fri 09th October 2009 11:09pm (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : Re : shape of it Early Terranos do the same. Must be inbuilt by a Japanese engineer who wanted to discourage splashing. John Christchurch, NZ - Sun 11th October 2009 04:53am (GMT)

Subject : nissan can anybody tell me the correct way to change fuel filter on 97 terrano,2.7d,se ian finlay ballinamuck, longford, ireland - Thu 01st October 2009 12:19pm (GMT)

Subject : Re : nissan Buy the correct new fuel filter, make sure it has an extra O ring in the box with the filter. Passenger side at rear of engine compartment, look for same filter, which will be in a bracket attached to a priming pump with a black knob on top of it. There are two things coming from the bottom part of the filter, one a rubber tube, the other is the electrical connection for the "water in fuel" sensor. Follow this wire until you get to the first connector, and pull connector apart. At the halfway mark of this connector is a small tab which you press inwards to allow the connection to be be pulled apart. Unscrew the two bolts holding the filter and priming pump to their mounting bracket. Lift pump and fitlter unti you can unscrew the filter. Tip filter into container to let fuel drain, unscrew the drain valve from bottom of filter.Remove old O ring from drain valve Place new O ring from box on drain valve, attach drain valve to new filter. Turn upright and fill filter with new clean diesel. Smear a lick of diesel on rubber seal, screw new filter onto pump body. Bolt to brackets. Now comes the boring bit. Pump the knob down and release, about 150 times until it is impossible to depress the priming pump knob any more. Start engine a keep revs at around 2,000 for about 1 minute. If there is any air in the system and the engine splutters, keeping it at that 2,000rpm usually allows the engine to overcome the momentary stutter. Drop bonnet and go for a 5 mile run, cell phone in pocket just in case. Hasn't failed me yet. Hope this helps John Christchurch, NZ - Sat 03rd October 2009 08:18am (GMT)

Subject : nissan mistral auto i have a 1995 nissan mistral there seems a lack of cooperation from the auto box its reluctant to change up when i have my foot flat on the floor i have to ease right off on the throttle to change up then gently re apply throttle to much gas and it changes back down makes loads of smoke and goes slower frustrating when overtaking lorrys or when towing had engine serviced about 4k ago so no probs there also had turbo stripped due to lack of power but that was fine to, just had enough of a gutless thirsty piece of junk mark watkins norwich, norfolk, UK - Mon 28th September 2009 06:36am (GMT)

Subject : Re : nissan mistral auto Read previous posts on this and many other websites, or try this link: http://bebrs.pie-dabas.net/Webs/Terrano/R20/ec.pdf Sounds like a MAF sensor or No1.injector lift sensor problem? Isn't the www a wonderful thing. Hope this helps, John Christchurch, NZ - Mon 28th September 2009 07:56am (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : nissan mistral auto i have the 95 mistral and they are not fitted with m a f sensor. if you look to the left of your steering wheel there is a 3 position switch bottom hold middle a/t top power switch it to hold (bottom)this will change up a gear between 2-2500 revs and hold on to gear wen you plant your foot down. the symptoms you dscribe sounds like it is in power mode, holds on to gears for to long for my liking on a diesle loose all ooomph ian durham, UK - Sun 22nd November 2009 06:28pm (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : nissan mistral auto I found by locking up the tork converter my 92 Terrano no longer screams its nuts off by kicking down a gear when trying to over take other cars/trucks if you want to know how this is done supply a e mail addy and i will send nessary info to you. Gary - Fri 27th November 2009 04:03am (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : Re : nissan mistral auto would realy be glad for this fix....thanks in advance ray cardiff, UK - Tue 15th December 2009 08:35pm (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : Re : Re : nissan mistral auto I need an e mail addy so i can send you the nessary info to lock up your converter Gary Gary NZL - Wed 16th December 2009 02:15am (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : Re : Re : nissan mistral auto I need an e mail addy so i can send you the nessary info to lock up your converter Gary Gary - NZL - Wed 16th December 2009 02:15am (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : Re : nissan mistral auto hello. I am interested in how to lock the torque converter up as you have done, please advise thanks tom tom helsby liverpool, UK - Sun 04th April 2010 07:49pm (GMT)

Subject : The Nissan Pathfinder in US is the Terrano import model in NZ. Some mention is made of the 2.7TD models. If you want to see a large forum on problems and solutions try http://www.nissanforums.com/pathfinder/index101.html John Christchurch, NZ - Mon 28th September 2009 01:36am (GMT)

Subject : Mistral front wheel bearings 1996 mistral 2.7 etc etc am more than a little handy with regard to mechanical servicing etc, front wheel bearings need adjusting as in tightening up( no rumbles etc) have done most convential types and trailers etc but thought it best to wait for advice before tearing into this. Have plenty of free fresh advice on changing a right front engine mount though..... you know...... the one under the injector pump that melts at a whiff of diesel and drops everthing so the starter actually rubs/ bounces off the chassis kianoplace Wai O Taiki bay, Auckland, NZ - Fri 25th September 2009 07:06pm (GMT)

Subject : Re : Mistral front wheel bearings It's not too bad at all. It has been covered in a previous posting. Jack up front end and remove wheels. Undo the allen-keyed bolts on the autohub, tap gently to remove hub,remove the spring and "clutch" noting how they reassemble, use a screwdrive to undo the locking plate, take plate off, undo nut, bob's your aunty. While you are in there, regrease the bearings and they will last another 100k klicks. Reaasemble with no discernible play, tighten, loosen, tighten until it feels right Hope this helps John Christchurch, NZ - Sat 26th September 2009 02:56am (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : Mistral front wheel bearings champion John,thanks for the reply, apart frm the hollow hub and lockscrews it's the same as most others, Another query while at that end of the bus, in 4WD low mode is it possible to get all 4 wheels driving together? as in a limited slip front differential? me wai o taiki bay, auckland, NZ - Sun 04th October 2009 04:19am (GMT) Subject : Re : Mistral front wheel bearings For diagrams try this link http://bebrs.pie-dabas.net/Webs/Terrano/R20/fa.pdf John Christchurch, NZ - Mon 28th September 2009 07:49am (GMT)

Subject : Mr On my 96 Terrano (Auto Diesel) I would like to be able to use Low ratio without engaging 4WD. truck mostly used for towing caravan. is there any way I can disable the 4WD electrically?. I could then turn it off and on at will - whilst in Low ratio? Gerry Gerald Butcher Waitakere, Auckland, UK - Fri 25th September 2009 02:57am (GMT)

Subject : Re : Mr Hate to say it, but I don't think you can do this. You can if you have an old Landrover or a Lada Niva. They have the 3 position lever, H-N-L, which works on 2 or 4 wheel drive.Then they have the other lever to lock the centre diff. But the 96 Terrano with a Fly by wire switch (and even my 91 which has a manual shift) will not allow low-ratio 2 wheel drive. You must be getting into some interesting places with the caravan to need low ratio? John Christchurch, NZ - Sat 26th September 2009 03:06am (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : Mr Try Porters Pass - not too far from you. We pulled up there with the van (2.2 T) but were in low gear and starting to heat up more than usual! Another lower ratio would have made me feel a lot better. Gerry Gerry Waitakere, Auckland, UK - Sun 27th September 2009 01:27am (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : Re : Mr Gerry, Almost any type of vehicle feels the strain of the infamous Porters Pass. As a last resort, turn on your heater to stage 4 fan, it acts like another radiator and usually lowers the temperature quite a bit. I presume if you have an auto box, you have fitted a reasonable sized auxiliary cooler? This relieves some of the strain on the radiator as well, but use the circuit trans into aux cooler and back into bottom of radiator then back to auto as even Auckland gets chilly in winter, and autos need to be a certain temperature to work well. You can't do much to take the strain of a manual, except make sure the oil is of good quality and at the right level. Other than porters, how was the rest of the South Island? John Christchurch, NZ - Mon 28th September 2009 01:29am (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : Re : Re : Mr We pulled the van about 7000K round the SI with no mechanical problems at all. We have a good aux cooler fitted (version 3) and the trans light stays off - even up Porters! The guys that fit the coolers up here never seem to use the original radiator connections at all - as I say we are on version 3 now. Also we run synthetic oil, seems great stuff.One of the problems with an older auto box seems to be that the temp sensors get out of calibration. The service guys here fit resistors to the circuit to overcome the problem. Ours locked into "failsafe" once on a cold morning South of here. It reset OK when I switched off and restarted. gerry AK, NZ, NZ - Mon 28th September 2009 03:40am (GMT)

Subject : ford maverick central lockin hi can anyone help me i have a 98 ford maverick and remote central locking just stoped workin on me i changed the batterys in key fob still no look had the key fob tested and that all workin fine so now i dont know what else it can be thank you jamie jamie lincolnshire, UK - Wed 23rd September 2009 12:14am (GMT)

Subject : Retired Have developed a noise in the gearbox area, a whine. It appears to be coming from the transfer box as moving the 4 wheel drive shift reduces the noise. Gearbox has had a full overhaul within the past 12 months, bearings etc. So fairly convinced that it is the transfer box. Is there and adjustment that can be made, is there an additive to the oil available, would a better gear oil e.g. similar to LSD oil, help reduce or eliminate the noise. Any advice gratefully received. Mal Thomas Dartmouth, Devon, UK - Wed 02nd September 2009 10:10pm (GMT)

Subject : Re : Retired Put the best oil you can get into the transfer case, to 80-90w GL5 spec. If you have a mechanic you trust, talk to him as well. He may have another "magic snake oil" he recommends as an additive. If that doesn't cure or alleviate the problem, get a second opinion on the rebuilt gearbox. It wouldn't be the first time a bearing used to rebuild a gearbox has gone bad. Hopefully you got a good warranty from the rebuilder. Hope this helps. John Christchurch, NZ - Thu 03rd September 2009 03:13pm (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : Retired Thanks John will get that done ASAP Mal Thomas Dartmouth, Devon, UK - Thu 03rd September 2009 07:28pm (GMT)

Subject : Air blower Hi Guys can someone help me with my blower. for some reason when I turn the blower on it only works in position 4 and nearly takes the wifes head off !! Any ideas and what can I do to correct it. Bob Woffinden Worksop, Notts, UK - Mon 31st August 2009 07:37pm (GMT)

Subject : Re : Air blower Sorry the car is a 1997 ford maverick. Thanks Bob Woffinden worksop, notts, UK - Mon 31st August 2009 07:40pm (GMT) Subject : Re : Air blower This has been covered in a previous posting. There is a series of resistors at positions 1,2 and 3 which reduce the speed of the blower motor. These have burnt out or become disconnected, and position 4 is a direct full 12v into the motor, which makes it a good hairdryer! Go to an automotive electrician, he may be able to replace the resistors at little cost, or at least quote repair costs. Hope this helps. John Christchurch, NZ - Tue 01st September 2009 04:44am (GMT) Subject : Re : Air blower Hi....mines done the same,just ordered the resistor pack....£31 from nissan....pete peter wright london, kent, UK - Fri 11th September 2009 02:21pm (GMT) Subject : Re : Air blower Try http://autorepair.about.com/library/faqs/bl237h.htm diagram and explanation. Hope this helps John Christchurch, NZ - Sat 26th September 2009 08:33am (GMT)

Subject : i put a new thermostat and fan belt no and now it takes ages for it to rev up any 1 help thanks dave james smith derby, uk, UK - Mon 31st August 2009 10:16am (GMT)

Subject : Re : What sort of vehicle is it? What happened to cause you to put in a new thermostat? What do you mean by "rev up?" What colour smoke/vapour comes out of the exhaust pipe, and when? How different is the vehicle in starting/running? John Christchurch, NZ - Mon 31st August 2009 02:25pm (GMT)

Subject : terrano front torsion bars Hi....could anyone advise me of a suppier of up graded torsion bars for my 99 terrano......many thank.....oh preferably not in auzzyland ta pete peter wright westerham, kent, UK - Sat 29th August 2009 02:28pm (GMT)

Subject : Re : terrano front torsion bars If you google Terrano suspension, you will find articles on resetting the torsion bar front suspension. Uprating the rear coil springs can be done by good spring maker. How radical do you want to go? John Christchurch, NZ - Mon 31st August 2009 02:29pm (GMT)

Subject : Nissan Terrano 2.7 intercooler I have a problem with very little power at islands and driving up hills this is my wife's 4x4 and I am concerned for her safety on busy main roads. Will replacing the MAF unit cure this problem? The top speed on hill is a maximum of 50 miles per hour at best is this normal? If any one could help I would be most greatful. Regards. Barrie. Barrie Aston Telford, Shropshire, UK - Mon 17th August 2009 08:47pm (GMT)

Subject : Re : Nissan Terrano 2.7 intercooler Barrie, With which vehicle are you comparing this "lack of power" of the Terrano? The Terrano is a truck, not a sports car. Have you or your wife noticed a difference in performance since you bought the vehicle? Have you tried out another Terrano to see if it is a better performer? Is your wife unhappy with the power, does she feel endangered in any way? If you have a sporty saloon that you are used to driving, then the Terrano will feel slower. I'd like to see your sporty saloon tow a loaded trailer, or caravan, or plow through mud and water like the Terrano can. As for hills, how steep are they? Try going up a steep slippery slope in your car at any speed, and you'll be left behind (or in the ditch) by the Terrano in 4WD. If the wife is not complaining, why be worried? When she asks for a Range Rover or Disco, that's the time to get worried! Try life in the slower lane, relax, get there rested. Hope this helps. John Christchurch, NZ - Tue 18th August 2009 05:28am (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : Nissan Terrano 2.7 intercooler Dear John. Thank you for your comments. The vehicle has always been on the slow side but recently there has been a reduction in acceleration even on slight gradent's. You can put the pedal to the floor and the truck struggles to pull. The air filter needs to be replaced and this may help. I ran the the vehicle without the air filter and the problem was much worse I think that it may be best to replace both the Map sensor and the filter as a starting point to keep the costs down and see what improvements are made to the perfomance of the vehicle and go on from that point. If there are any further imprvement recommendations that you could suggest we would be greatful. Barrie Aston Telford, Shropshire, UK - Tue 18th August 2009 10:35pm (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : Re : Nissan Terrano 2.7 intercooler Barrie, I agree. When you took the airfilter out, you increased the air supply. If there was insufficient fuel, that would make the situation worse with either a stuffed MAF sensor, or a lack of fuel. Filters first, then MAF. Also look at the previous postings and the tune-ups (mostly routine maintenance) that need to be done, especially the fuel filter and the gauze under the banjo nut on the fuel line at the injector pump. If it won't run to damn near the red line under load, suspect lack of fuel. Good luck John Christchurch, NZ - Wed 19th August 2009 01:19am (GMT) Subject : Re : Nissan Mistral 2.7 intercooler Could the lack of power in our 1997 Mistral be due to a faulty MAF sensor. I was quoted $750+GST for a new one. Are there any tests that can be down to assertain the there is a fault in the MAF sensor. I have had the air filter and fuel filter replaced. Still no improvement. Also had injector clean added to fuel tank, still no improvement. Richard Oliver mosgiel, otago, New Zealand - Wed 26th August 2009 07:47am (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : Nissan Mistral 2.7 intercooler Yes, but have a look on TradeMe for MAF sensors at a better price. If you recognise the shape/model, why not replace it yourself? You can do a lot with $750. See previous posts for clues as to what others have done in similar circumstances. Hope this helps John Christchurch, NZ - Wed 26th August 2009 09:41am (GMT)

Subject : what 4x4 hi i'm thinking about getting my 1st 4x4 any suggestion on what to buy?? adam grays, essex, UK - Sun 16th August 2009 11:21pm (GMT)

Subject : Re : what 4x4 Do your research on the accompanying sections of this website and others to see what faults are endemic to a particular 4wd, then balance those facts against price, reliability and fitness for purpose. If you can try out a 4wd at a dealers, that would also be good. There is a lot of choice, no one veicle does it all perfectly. John Christchurch, NZ - Mon 17th August 2009 05:15am (GMT)

Subject : fues blowing i have a terrano 11 2.7 deisel 1994 the meter fuse is blowing any suggestions wher to look? alan.northway fordingbridge, hampshire, UK - Wed 12th August 2009 04:53pm (GMT)

Subject : Re : fues blowing Which fuse is blowing? Did anything happen prior to the fuse blowing? Most fuses blow when there is a short-circuit to ground, say a wire scraping on a steel part of the body, or the firewall between the engine and the fusebox. Without more info, it's hard to say how to help. John Christchurch, NZ - Fri 14th August 2009 03:13am (GMT)

Subject : Nissan Mistral MAF Hi all, Quick Q about a Mistral. Whereabouts will I find the MAF on a Mistral? I have looked all around the engine bay in places you wouldnt expect to find one as well as the places where you would expect to find one. I have nothing resembling a Terrano MAF thats for sure, at least going by pictures on them on Ebay. There is nothing between the air filter and the air intake on the turbo that resembles one any way. car is a 95 Mistral 2.7TD imported from japan and its the 3 door SWB automatic. I'm sure there is a problem with the MAF as it is displaying all of the usual symptoms. Those being, poor acceleration and masses of blue smoke. Just incase I will give a better description as to how the engine behaves from cold start, bearing in mind that cold or warm it still runs just the same. Ok, slow to start but I think the glow plugs are past their prime. Once running no problems with idle. Moving away in AT, she accelerates but rather than go thru the gears she seems to hangs in 1st and second and thrash without changes to third and onwards. This also causes plenty of blue smoke. Ive found its better to keep the gearbox selector in the Hold position as this prevents over revs but this makes her slower still. Going up hills is a nightmage, a cyclist could over take me! If I keep it in hold, it jusrt creeps up a hill, if I select AT she thrashes and struggles even more. So in the eyes of all the experts ;) am I right, is this the MAF and if it is, where the heck is it on a Mistral? ? ? Cheers folks Steve Bedford, Beds, UK - Sat 01st August 2009 03:33pm (GMT)

Subject : Re : Nissan Mistral MAF Steve, Read previous postings below, and it will give you a clue. I would suspect the gearbox needs a filter and fluid change at a minimum. This will help re changing up into the top gears. Obviously your motor can rev to 4000rpm plus? If not, then change the fuel filter etc. as described in earlier posts. Hope this help. John Christchurch, NZ - Sun 02nd August 2009 09:11am (GMT) Subject : Re : Nissan Mistral MAF Hi did you find the MAF if so please let me know where it is as i have been looking fo mine for over 6 weeks now thanks paultidman jarrow, tyne 7 wear, UK - Sat 08th August 2009 12:27pm (GMT) Subject : Re : Nissan Mistral MAF there is no maf sensor on the 95 mistral.2 other cheap and chereful checks would be the egr valve , the banjo filter.try googling these to get full instruction. if no luck join "nissan4x4ownersclub" £10 ayear but well worth it laods of usefull info ian durham, UK - Sun 22nd November 2009 06:45pm (GMT)

Subject : my Nissan Mistral 1996-TD27B i got my car from Japan two years back< well it was ok with problem in pickup, still its slaw to pickup speacialy when over taking other cars, i thought the problem was with the gear box. then the I dicoverd the fan was not running well with its plastic weel is totaly damage and need to be replaced then the self starter went out of order and had to be modefyed then the warming pins are not working unless got warm manualy via extra buttom the car will not start lately ablack thick smock coming out the car< and the car need mobil full 4 litter every 7 days now i need spare parts which are not avalable in Bangladesh< can any body sujjest me a dealer any ware, in japan who can supply me the spare parts, please send me the contact as soon as possible thank you faik hamza faik hamza gulshan, dhaka, Bangladesh - Sat 25th July 2009 06:47am (GMT)

Subject : Mistral won't go in reverse Can anybody tell me how you change the transmission fluid for a Mistral Diesel Auto please. I'm struggling to find a manual and the car won't go into reverse when it is warm! Thanks in advance... Jo - NZ - Tue 21st July 2009 06:38pm (GMT)

Subject : Re : Mistral won't go in reverse You need to be able to crawl underneath and take the auto trans sump off, renew the filter, check the internals of the box, torque some bolts to their correct settings, check for wear, and then refill the box with new fluid, preferably also taking the time to push the old fluid out of the torque converter. You will get very dirty and oily, plus you won't know what to check for. This is one of those times when you bite the bullet and go to a professional. It may cost $300, but if you don't, it may cost $3000 in the long term. Hope this helps. John Christchurch, NZ - Thu 23rd July 2009 11:50am (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : Mistral won't go in reverse Thanks for the reply. Can you tell me where you fill the transmission fluid up at please? And is there a level plug in the box? I am a motor mechanic and I have this to do as a job for a friend. I was just unsure of where to refill as I have never worked on one of these before. Any idea of the amount of oil needed? Cheers.... Jo NZ - Sun 26th July 2009 08:26am (GMT)

Subject : '95 'N' Nissan Mistral Can anyone point me in the direction of how to get an extra alarm fob and key for Mistral? I only have the one and am frightened to death of either losing it or the remote fob going flat! Cheers Dave dave blake blaydon, tyne & wear, UK - Sun 19th July 2009 08:14pm (GMT)

Subject : nissan qd32 i have a 1998 Nissan Regulus, r50 qd32 with electronic fuel pump, i have a problem with the fuel feedback system, which has caused an erratic idle and surging at 1800rpm at 80kmph, has anyone struck this and dose anyone have the test values for the number 1 injection sensor? dose anyone have a wiring diagram for the engine and ecu pin out and secor tests, also as it seem hard to find info on these motors? any help would be appreicated, cheer chris - new zealand - Sun 12th July 2009 06:37am (GMT)

Subject : Re : nissan qd32 Try this forum it may be able to help. http://x.nissanhelp.com/forums/frontier-hb/4936-qd32-engine-timing-belt.html John Christchurch, NZ - Tue 14th July 2009 05:56am (GMT)

Subject : Nissan mistarl I have purchased a nissan mistral 1995 2.7TD, could someone give me an average fuel consumption on these 4X4. Cheers Steve Steve Cook Waikato, New Zealand - Fri 10th July 2009 10:48am (GMT)

Subject : Re : Nissan mistarl Steve, My 1990 Terrano TD auto averages around 8.5km per litre.Around town,down to 7, cruising at 100km,around 9. Towing a 4.5metre caravan, around 5 @ 85kmh. Hope this helps. John Christchurch, NZ - Tue 14th July 2009 05:29am (GMT) Subject : Re : Nissan mistarl Hi . we had 94 mistral . Great truck . It used around 13 l per 100k on average . steve naylor Ashburton, canterbury, NZ - Tue 21st July 2009 10:08am (GMT)

Subject : Drives in 4 Wheel But Grinds in Two Greetings from the Isle of Man - have a 2.7 TDI Terrano - 1998 Last week whilst driving it started to make the sound of quite literally a lawn mower - thats all I can describe it as! and seemed to loose a little power for a split second it continued to drive but did it again - I put it into 4 wheel drive and it doesnt do it at all whilst in 4 wheel drive - I hade had it off road the day before it started to make a grinding noise and wonder if maybe it just hasn't engaged back into 2 wheel properly? Although I ahve messed around with it and it still makes the lawn mower sound about every 5 minutes whilst driving and shudders slightly - any ideas? Amanda - UK - Wed 08th July 2009 12:26pm (GMT)

Subject : Re : Drives in 4 Wheel But Grinds in Two amanda did you ever find out the cause of this noise? I have the same problem with my nissan mistral. I have had the auto box checked and replaced the transfer case and front diff without any success regards Tom tom helsby liverpool, UK - Sun 04th April 2010 08:10pm (GMT)

Subject : Nissan Mistral Loss of power Hi all, I have a Nissan Mistral on an N plate (95) which I shipped over from Japan in 2003. The car has done me proud and I have racked up an additional 140,000 miles in her making her total mileage 214,000 miles now and she still runs! Anyway, over the last few months she has been steadily deteriorating on the power front. These are the symptoms. Initially power is in short supply from the moment she starts and she is a little slow to start sometimes but that is almost certainly down to the glow plugs. Once started..... 1: Very slow when you come to a hill, distinct lack of pull going up the hill and she wants to rev until blue smoke bellows out of the exhaust. The only way to stop it is to keep pulling back on the gas. 2: On level ground, she can still get up to 75/80mph but it takes a while. Once the power has peaked it then seems to miss. Not miss fire but miss if you catch my drift, its almost as if it keeps spontaneously decelerates and you can really feel it through the car. At present I have to switch my transmission to hold otherwise she just wants to rev, make smoke but no power. I dare not try and pull out a bit sharp because all it will do is make a load of noise and crawl into the lane causing any oncoming motorist to make shaking the beans type hand gestures towards me. I have read a lot about an air mass meter being the most likely culprit but I cant seem to find one under the bonnet of my Mistral anywhere or anything that even resembles it. This being the case, does anyone have any ideas as to what the prob might be and if it is an air mass meter at fault, where the hell is it?!?!?!? Cheers, Chris Chris - UK - Fri 03rd July 2009 06:28pm (GMT)

Subject : Re : Nissan Mistral Loss of power Chris, you have had a fabulous run from the Mistral, and there is a lot further left in the old girl yet. BUT, you may have to spend some dosh. Before you see a good diesel expert, read the previous posts, and carry out the following: air filter change, check for collapsing/soft air intake hoses or blockages in the air intake system: oil change, oil filter change, fuel filter replacement, cleaning of the gauze filter at the injector pump. If you suspect the glow plugs,when you go to the expert, ask them to check the current drain and relays. If your vehicle has a MAF sensor, it will be between the air filter and the intake of the turbo,so look for something black and plastic in this area, with a plug on the side and electrical wires coming out of it. Frankly, if you can't find that, either you don't have a MAF sensor, or you need to see an expert. He may recommend an injector clean and reset as well, and can remove the glowplugs and check each one at the same time. Regards and good luck. John Christchurch, NZ - Sat 04th July 2009 05:20am (GMT) Subject : Re : Nissan Mistral Loss of power Hi, sorry to hear your having problems. I have a '98 terrano 2' i experienced the same problems- loss of power- revs bouncing off the dial...checked with a fellow terrano owner and it was down to the 'Air flow sensor' cheap to replace you can even do it yourself! i did and im a girl!! ;-) On another note can anyone give me some advice on loss of clutch fluid? i'v had the master cylinder changed but only two days later the clutch has lost all the fluid again!! Melissa Swindon, Wilts, UK - Sun 05th July 2009 07:18pm (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : Nissan Mistral Loss of power "Women can do anything" was a theme used in TV adverts in NZ to encourage females to take on careers that might otherwise be thought to be too "masculine" for consideration. Re your clutch problem, I would hazard a guess that the fluid is leaking from somewhere and at a rapid rate. Have you checked the slave cylinder, the one near the clutch housing? If it leaks there will be obvious signs of leaking fluid, especially behind that rubber boot over the end. Usually, the dirt,grit and water which sprays up under the vehicle gets into the cylinder via the perishing rubber boot. This causes corrosion to the metal, which causes wear on the rubber seals on the piston,which then leaks fluid. If you do a fair bit of 4WDing, go through mud, rivers , or drive on salt laden roads, this is almost inevitable after 14 years. Take the cylinder off, and have a look at the bore. There are three ways of tackling the corrosion: if it is slight, smooth it by honing the bore, get a new seal kit and reassemble with lots of rubber grease between the piston and the rubber boot at the end. Too much honing means oversize seals which may be difficult to find. Or buy a replacement cylinder. The original one lasted for 14 years, are you going to keep it for 14 more? Or drill out and sleeve the bore with a stainless steel sleeve so that the original seals can be used, but the bore will never again corrode. Then you can 4WD as much as you like. Regards and good luck John Christchurch, NZ - Mon 06th July 2009 05:58am (GMT)

Subject : ford maverick 2.7td i have a 2.7 td (1993)whick whilst driving lost power and wouldnt rev above 2000 revs and smoked from exhaust white smoke ? i changed turbo and then would rev to 3000 rpm but felt like hitting a limiter power would die off then reading threads on here i checked the fuel filter (cleaned it not changed) then that filter in the banjo bolt on injector pump but filter was missing then cleaned the fuel rail and injectors but problem got worse only reving to 1500 revs this started after i played with fuel filter (i pumped 150 times as advised to remove air do i need to undo any thing to release air ? ) whilst checking fuel lines to fuel filter i noticed the line in to the filter didnt have much pressure should there be any ? and if so where would i locate the fuel pump to remove and clean or am i barking up the wrong tree if any one has any ideas i would be very gratefull just please let me know where parts are on the car as ive only had it 2 months THANKS JAY jay pottersbar, herts, UK - Mon 29th June 2009 12:38pm (GMT)

Subject : Re : ford maverick 2.7td Jay, I cannot believe you changed the turbo without first changing the fuel filter. How did you "clean" the fuel filter? It is a sealed unit, you can't see inside it, you can't scrape it out, and anything you put through it to "clean" it is likely to be injurious to the filter, let alone the injector pump, rails or injectors. Spend the money and buy a new filter, put it on, pump it to fill it with fuel, then run the engine. Best of luck... John Christchurch, NZ - Tue 30th June 2009 11:34am (GMT)

Subject : Re Heater Fan Ok me again. I have just purchased a replacement heater unit for my Nissan Terrano 92 2700 Diesel, after a local auto electrician had a look at it and told me the unit had been ripped out. I have just fiddled around with the unit that I found was still in tacked in my vehicle after all, go figure. Ok my problem is whereis the fan for this system located? Is it over on the passengers side just above where the passengers feet sit? Or is it actually in the heater unit behind the centre consul? Can any one help, as without a manual(believe me I am trying to source one locally) I am becoming increasing frustrated and after asking a so called electrical expert I am somewhat disillusioned. Cheers Shane Shane franklin, auckland, New Zealand - Mon 29th June 2009 07:06am (GMT)

Subject : Re : Re Heater Fan If it is in the same spot as my 1990, then it is above the passenger footwell, towards the left side panel of the vehicle. It is a metal cylinder which is vertical, and has a white plug with two blue wires going into the side of it. I think you really need to find another electrician, after you go back and point out the obvious to this retard. Have you checked all the fuses in the box on the drivers underside of the dash, between the steering column and the door? They will be in Japanese, but pull them and look for a blown one. Thgis photo may not be exactly the same, but you can see what I mean http://www.friendster.com/photos/22104208/1/874840530 John John Christchurch, NZ - Mon 29th June 2009 09:01am (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : Re Heater Fan Hi John, Yes that's exactly where it is (or should be) on my wehicle as well. I think I may be able to get this part off the same person I got the heater unit, (fingers crossed). I will try and fit it myself and then get the unit checked by another auto electrician that hopefully knows waht they are doing. Cheers again John, thats a huge help. Shane franklin, auckland, New Zealand - Mon 29th June 2009 09:20am (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : Re : Re Heater Fan Actually, the retard was right..it had ALL been ripped out, not just the heater, but also all of the ventilation system,including the fan unit. When you go back to where you got the heater, make sure you get everything else needed to make it all fit together..and work. Good luck... John Christchurch, NZ - Mon 29th June 2009 09:40am (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : Re : Re : Re Heater Fan ok well now i am confused. ok the only piece I am missing from the current system I have in this vehicle is the round flat metal looking piece that was in the picture sent to me, I am assuming that's all I need now, everything else is all still in there. Shane franklin, auckland, New Zealand - Mon 29th June 2009 09:48am (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : Re : Re : Re : Re Heater Fan Sorry, you are right. When the electrician said the heater was missing, he obviously meant that the fan unit was missing. You thought he meant the heater, but that was still there. Hope you can swap what you bought for what you need. John. John Christchurch, NZ - Mon 29th June 2009 10:48am (GMT) Subject : Re : Re Heater Fan Hi Shane. It took me ages to source a manual for your vehicle, but I did eventually! If you go to the following web site, you can down load it. [It's quite a big download, but worth it !] http://www.onlinefreeebooks.net/automotive-machinery-power-equipment-ebooks/nissan/nissan-terrano-model-r20-series-service-manual-pdf.html I hope you find this useful. Cheers for now. ROD HUDSON rod@southerntelecomms.com Rod Hudson Wanaka, Central Otago, New Zealand - Tue 07th July 2009 05:02am (GMT) Subject : Re : Re Heater Fan will find electronic service manual at www.cars4qatar.com Chris G Bellshill, Lanarkshire, UK - Fri 14th August 2009 02:11pm (GMT)

Subject : Terrano Got a 97 Terrano with QD 32 td and have juts noticed that it wont rev above 3500 rpm . Went to peass a car , planted boot but nothing happened . when you rev the engine with no load still only go to 3500 rpm . Tried it in every gear and did the same . Fuel filter ? or air flow sensor AGAIN !!!!. IT seems to pull fine up to those revs and then its like a govener cuts in . Any help would be greatfull . Just remembered that the snow light on the auto switch came on when usually the power light comes on when you put your foot down . Cheers s a, nz - Sun 28th June 2009 06:13am (GMT)

Subject : Re : Terrano Obviously, either the fuel is not getting through, or the air is not getting through, or the engine is being "managed" by the ECU for some reason. This problem is exactly what I had on my 1990 Terrano while towing a caravan over the Otira Pass. Sure enough, it was the fuel filter... full of crap. After replacing that,4200rpm was no problem through all gears. While you are replacing the fuel filter, trace the fuel line round to the injection pump. At this junction there should be a banjo bolt, about 17mm head, and near impossible to get to. Undo it and there will be a fine gauze filter under it. Make sure this is also cleaned out. Anneal the two copper sealing washers, or replace them with new, otherwise it will leak diesel from there. These are the cheap fixes. After that, it needs diagnosis of fault codes, but see other posts prior to yours e.g. re the No1 injector lift sensor etc. John Christchurch, NZ - Sun 28th June 2009 09:17am (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : Terrano Thanks john . Thanks for your very quick reply . Have just taken for a spin and wouldnt you know it , going as good as at the moment . I reckon engine management was probly the cause but not sure why . My machinic said I should of got the td 27 terrano but the power of the qd 32 is heaps better . Will do the filter and banjo bolt any way , Thanks again Steve steve naylor Ashburton, nz - Sun 28th June 2009 10:45am (GMT)

Subject : r3mr shocks Does anyone know where i can get a full set of shocks for an imported 96 terrano r3mr phil hodgkinson mansfield, nottinghamshire, UK - Thu 25th June 2009 06:29pm (GMT)

Subject : Re : r3mr shocks If you have adjustable original shocks and want to replace them, you will have to go to Nissan. Expect about $1000 per shock, ex Japan. If you can do without the sport/soft setting, then I suggest you go to your local Munroe gas shock supplier, and buy a set of these. You may have change from $750! They are an easy DIY fit. Tape the plug leads from the original shocks up out of the way. Pedantic WOF inspectors have been known to say this is a mod which requires certification. Go somewhere else for your WOF! Hope this helps. John Chrustchurch, NZ - Sat 27th June 2009 04:32am (GMT) Subject : Re : r3mr shocks Thanks for the help John phil hodgkinson mansfield, nottinghamshire, UK - Sat 27th June 2009 08:44pm (GMT)

Subject : Pollen Filter Mistral 96 R20 Hi.Does anyone know where the pollen filter is located? My vehicle's cooling(black plastic container) unit is not the same as the one shown in this link http://www.digicar.co.za/nissan/terrano/pollenfilter.php. There's no vertical slide. any help would be appreciated. thanks. dennis auckland, new zealand - Sun 21st June 2009 05:46am (GMT)

Subject : Re : Pollen Filter Mistral 96 R20 Try this site, it appears to have a pollen filter location for every vehicle in Europe. Their mistral is known as a Terrano II http://www.nahradnediely.sk/down/pdf/Catalogo_CLEAN_CABIN.pdf Hope this helps, otherwise contact your friendly (think TUI ad) Nissan Service centre and ask the same question!! John Christchurch, NZ - Sun 21st June 2009 11:51am (GMT) Subject : Re : Pollen Filter Mistral 96 R20 Oops, forgot to say that NC2092 is the filter diagram you are looking for John Christchurch, NZ - Sun 21st June 2009 11:54am (GMT) Subject : Pollen Filter Mistral 96 R20 Hi John, Thanks so much for your time. Mine is different from what's shown in diagram(NC2092). Try to check this link for the photo of the truck's cooling unit. http://www.friendster.com/photos/22104208/1/874840530 Cheers, Dennis Dennis auckland, new zealand, new zealand - Tue 23rd June 2009 02:27am (GMT) Subject : Re : Pollen Filter Mistral 96 R20 Nice photo. Don't you hate it when something oddball turns up? Where the " R " is marked on the big black box on the right is where the filter would usually reside. Can you unscrew the white doohickey to the left of that, and with a small mirror check if there is any filter in the Big Black Box? If not, above the fan unit there appears to be a light blue plastic panel. Can you see if this might come out by removing that mechanism to the left of and above the white doohickey previously mentioned? There may not be a filter in that particular model. Hopefully someone else will have a look and can identify in which vehicle this is usually installed. Good luck. John Christchurch, NZ - Tue 23rd June 2009 04:25am (GMT) Subject : Pollen Filter Mistral 96 R20 Thanks John. Yup I already opened that white doohickey and all I saw was dirt and dried leaves. You could be right, this has no filter. My last option is to email nissan nz and see if they have any idea. I'll update you of any progress. Thanks for your time. Cheers, Dennis auckland, new zealand - Tue 23rd June 2009 10:20am (GMT) Subject : Re : Pollen Filter Mistral 96 R20 Yes, this model has no filter. Dennis Auckland, NZ - Fri 26th February 2010 10:17am (GMT)

Subject : Feedback, please! I know there are different strokes for different folks, but if you seek help here and get advice, could you respond as to whether the advice given has been useful, or not, as the case may be? My imagination goes into overdrive when someone asks for help with a possible life-threatening problem (brakes especially) and I think any normal human being would like to know how it all turned out, as painful as it might be financially speaking!! Regards, John Christchurch, NZ - Wed 17th June 2009 09:27am (GMT)

Subject : Re : Feedback, please! could you please advise on the correct way to engage and disengage 4wd in a nissan terrano r3mr also recommended tyres 80% onroad use. shawn napier, nz - Tue 15th December 2009 05:31am (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : Feedback, please! Presuming you have a 1900-95 WD21 Terrano Automatic with a manual 4wd lever selector beside the auto gearstick and that you have auto locking hubs? If auto,stop vehicle, leave engine running, place auto gear selector in Neutral, move 4wd selector rapidly to whichever position you want, 4H or 4L, watch for green light on dash (4wd symbol), select drive on auto and drive on. Use 4wd only on a slippery surface NEVER ON TARMAC, even for a "little bit" When you get to tarmac, stop vehicle, place auto selector lever in Neutral, with engine running, move 4wd selector rapidly and smoothly into 4H, place auto selector into Reverse, reverse vehicle about 3 metres. Stop and select drive, and drive forward, check green 4wd symbol on dash is no longer illuminated, and try swinging steering wheel left and right. If the steering is heavier in it's feel than usual, one or both auto locking hubs have failed to release. You can still drive with them locked up, but means that the front axles and driveshafts are being rotated, and it's a waste of energy which you are paying for by higher fuel consumption. So stop the vehicle and reverse it for 10 metres, just to show there are no hard feelings. This should unlock the auto hubs. If you have manual hubs, you will have to get out and do it yourself. As for tyre selections, get the best deal you can from someone you know or trust. I have a 4wd so I can get unstuck from a paddock, or when I am on a greasy or shingled track, so I prefer an A/T (all terrain) tyre. If you are sure you will never be embarrassed by going onto anything slippery, you could select a H/T tyre, which has as much grip on slippery grass as a worn tennis shoe. You might as well sell the Terrano, you're not giving it a chance to act like a 4wd. Hope this helps John Christchurch, NZ - Mon 22nd March 2010 12:34pm (GMT)

Subject : nissan exhaust Hi, i have a 2004 nissan hardbody 3.0 16v TD. This vehicle was destined for the south african market but imported into the uk when new. most body spares etc are identical to the 2.5 d22 navara. I am having difficulty getting exhaust replacements, can anybody help me phil cowley dursley, gloucestershire, UK - Mon 15th June 2009 11:43am (GMT)

Subject : Re : nissan exhaust Hi, i have a frontier 3.0 16v td and a local company made me a stainless one, its been on 3 years and no probs, maybe you can find someone to do this for you,no rust etc. I NEED A WORKSHOP MANUAL FOR MY ENGINE, can you help? Darryl carlisle, cumbria, UK - Sat 20th June 2009 07:08pm (GMT)

Subject : Worksop Manuals on line Try this link, a fantastic resource for Terrano owners including WD21 models http://bebrs.pie-dabas.net/Webs/Terrano/R20/ John Christchurch, NZ - Mon 15th June 2009 10:17am (GMT)

Subject : Re : Worksop Manuals on line I am loking for a workshop manual for a 1994 2.7 TD terrano if anyone can help please Derek Johncock Mansfield, Notts, UK - Sat 11th July 2009 02:43pm (GMT)

Subject : nissan pathfinder ive got clutch problem ie clutch pedal heavy and nealy fully let out before car pulls away.also can smell clutch when towing has anyone else had this prob and has there been any recall on this as i heard that there was on early navara"s.. car is 2006 with 24500 miles.still under waranty??. dave lynam merthyr tydfil, mid glam, UK - Mon 15th June 2009 12:00am (GMT)

Subject : Nissan Terrano2 tickover uneven Hi. I have started to get very uneven tickover revs. with my 1999 Terrano2 Auto. Tickover pulses from 400 - 1000. Makes manouvering, parking etc. very difficult as engine often cuts out & orange fault light comes on. No other problems and it runs fine as soon as you get revs over 1000. Garage cannot find a cause for the fault! Any suggestions much appreciated. Peter Ross Cannock, UK - Sun 14th June 2009 11:29am (GMT)

Subject : Re : Nissan Terrano2 tickover uneven You need a Nissan dealer with a scanner to check out the engine fault codes. Once that has been diagnosed, the actual way you tackle the repair, with OEM parts or not, at the Nissan dealer or not, becomes another story. Otherwise suggest you read some of the other prior postings here, and you may come to the conclusion that a clean, repair or replacement of the MAF sensor may be a starting point, albeit an expensive one, because something is not reading right down low in the rev range. Good luck. John Christchurch, NZ - Wed 17th June 2009 09:34am (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : Nissan Terrano2 tickover uneven Thanks very much John. I will try cleaning the MAF sensor as a first call. I know what it looks like but can you tell me where in the engine bay I can find it? Peter Ross Cannock, UK - Fri 26th June 2009 07:49pm (GMT)

Subject : 4x4 servicing Hi, I have recently purchased a 1992 Nissan Terrano, I have had the engine and transmission serviced as I wasn' too sure when it was last done, so for peace of mind I had it done. Can any one tell me what else on the vehicle should I get serviced for example anything to do with the 4 wheel drive components or suspension, etc. I want to be sure that things are maintained from here on in. Thanks any pointers would be great. Shane auckland, New Zealand - Sat 13th June 2009 11:38pm (GMT)

Subject : Re : 4x4 servicing Change diff oils (be careful, the rear diff may be an LSD, will need correct oil) Change transfer box oil. Flush brake system by bleeding all brakes in correct sequence until new fluid appears at the bleeders. Depending on mileage, think about renewing shockies, as the Terrano handles 100% better with good shocks. If you have an auto trans, and you are going to tow heavy trailers/caravans, install a good extra trans cooler in series with the one in the radiator, ie from auto to aux cooler,into bottom of radiator, return to trans. In cooler climates (such as NZ) this means the aux cooler cannot overcool; the fluid goes into the bottom of the radiator and heats slightly before returning to the trans on cold days. Look at the swaybar bushes, if they are distorted they are cheap to replace. Check condition of V belts. Renew fuel filter. Check banjo bolt at fuel pump to clean fine gauze filter which is under it. Have a look at the other posts on this site:they will give you a good idea what needs to be done regularly. Hope this helps. John Christchurch, NZ - Sun 14th June 2009 01:08am (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : 4x4 servicing Hi John, That's great thanks for taking the time to reply, I will check other postings on the site also. Cheers Shane auckland, New Zealand - Sun 14th June 2009 01:29am (GMT)

Subject : Nissan Mistral I am desparately looking for a radiator rebuilder or new for Nissan Mistral TD27T Part no 21450-1F101 (Automatic) Can anyone help me? john potter Polegate, E Sussex, UK - Sat 13th June 2009 11:23am (GMT)

Subject : Hi - I have a 97 Ford maverick. The heater motor has just started only working on max power (4) nothing on the other settings. I have had the control out and looked at the switch but there was nothing wrong with it. Does anyone know if the fan motor itself can behave like this. I dont want to strip all the dash out for nothing. - Cheers ! Tim Tim - Essex, UK - Fri 12th June 2009 01:23pm (GMT)

Subject : Re : Look/trace the wiring from/to the heater motor. There will be resistors near to it. These have burnt out, so speeds 1,2,3 won't work.Speed 4 will, as it feeds current directly into the motor. Lying upside down in the footwell with your tongue firmly in your cheek may help you spot the problem. You may still have to get into the depths of the dash though. Consult with an auto electrician re replacement parts or rerouting the current through an exterior resistance before taking everything apart? Good luck. John Christchurch, NZ - Sun 14th June 2009 01:18am (GMT)

Subject : nissan navara QD 3.2 workshop manual lookin for a navara 2001 qd 3.2 worksh op manual that wont cost an arm and a leg. andrew darwin, nt, australia - Thu 11th June 2009 01:27pm (GMT)

Subject : TERRANO ABS Hi all. The dreaded terrano abs strikes again.Getting occasional abs activation at low speeds and other times abs light comes on and stays on and the abs doesn't activate.Checked wiring from actuator to sensors-no breaks and all readings within tolerance....ANY IDEAS? NIGEL Derby, UK - Wed 10th June 2009 08:55pm (GMT)

Subject : heater no longer working Hi i have a 96 nissan terrano 3.1 turbo intercooler. Until recently, my heater now only blows cold air, have checked thermostat faulty and replaced along with new antifreeze coolant ?still not going can anyone help me. wayne wayne palmerston north, new zealand - Tue 09th June 2009 04:40pm (GMT)

Subject : Re : heater no longer working Check that the pollen filter which is in behind the glovebox is not choked with dirt etc. Follow this link http://www.digicar.co.za/nissan/terrano/pollenfilter.php Hope this helps John Christchurch, NZ - Tue 09th June 2009 05:56pm (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : heater no longer working Hi john, Sorry for taking so long to reply well I looked at the web site given, dismantled the glove box and found mine totally different no pollen filter, then tried flushing the heater core with garden hose and kept blowing the hose off, thinking the core was blocked i gave up.Then bugger me while traveling home the silly heater decides to go and hadn't stopped? Until today lol, don’t know why its going from hot to cold when it wants, the fan speed increase today by itself then blew cold? while temp setting is at 30 cel?. Thanks for your help .Wayne wayne palmerston north, new zealand - Wed 24th June 2009 12:57pm (GMT) Subject : Re : heater no longer working One other thought, disconnect the coolant hoses leading to the heater. Turn the heater control to full on position. Using a garden hose with a suitable fitting, insert the garden hose into one of the heater hoses, and turn on the tap.Do it slowly at first to check if there is any flow through at all. Theoretically, water should flow through this fairly quickly. If there is a air blockage, this will remove it. I was once upset with the performance of a HQ Holden heater, and I connected it to a fire hose. There were about 10 individual spurts of rust that erupted from the outlet hose as each tube unblocked in the heater core.. Great heat after that! Not recommended because 60psi tap pressure can do nasty things to the heater core that is only usually pressurised at 13psi. Regards and good luck John Christchurch, NZ - Tue 09th June 2009 06:09pm (GMT)

Subject : Nissan navaro D22 fuel prob I wonder if any body can help me I have a 2001 Nissan navaro D22 with a problem that apears to be fuel related you can drive it at approx 50mph but if you go above that speed it starts to pull back as if it is being starved of fuel after about 15 miles like this it will start to get worse and slow down still chugging and pulling back and then white smoke will come out of the exhaust. I have spoken to Nissan and they suggest that it is a Fuel filter problem if so how many are there you have the one in the enging bay also a in line filter and I am led to belive there might be a microscreen filter on the pump? if so where is it has any body else had this problem and is replaceing the filters go to cure it. I am also going to try and put a injector cleaner through the system Paul Benfleet, Essex, UK - Mon 08th June 2009 07:24pm (GMT)

Subject : Re : Nissan navaro D22 fuel prob White smoke can mean water problems in the fuel.This also restricts the amount of diesel that can get through a filter (clogs it). If you haven't already done so, replace your fuel filter in the engine bay. Trace the fuel line from the filter to the injector pump. The banjo bolt that connects the fuel line to the pump may have a fine gauze filter in it.Remove and clean this. Use new copper washers, or anneal the old ones, otherwise you will have leaks. Read the earlier postings on this site for more clues as to the usual diesel problems, white smoke, black smoke, blue smoke. Injector cleaners are a last resort, and usually a waste of money. The fuel should be clean and water free. John Christchurch, NZ - Tue 09th June 2009 06:18pm (GMT) Subject : Re : Nissan navaro D22 fuel prob This site has an analysis of what you look for in a turbocharged vehicle. http://www.turbotechnics.com/docs/turbo/tips.htm Unfortunately, their analysis of white smoke at idle is a cracked head,leaking gasket etc. So, the question is, do you have coolant loss problems as well as the other symptoms you described? Good luck John Christchurch, NZ - Fri 12th June 2009 06:02am (GMT)

Subject : gearbox patrol hello im looking a gearbox for 2000 3did patrol if u have a good one give me a mail call me 07595528078 lucas manchester, lancashire, UK - Sun 07th June 2009 09:21pm (GMT)

Subject : Heater/Air Con Not working I have a 1992 Nissan Terrano 2700 Diesel Turbo. The Heater and Air Conditioning is not working at all, completely dead, no lights nothing. Does anyone know where the fuse is located for this unit? Or what could be a solution for this problem. Thanks Shane Shane auckland, New Zealand - Sun 07th June 2009 09:31am (GMT)

Subject : Re : Heater/Air Con Not working Look under the dash on right side and there is a fuse block. You may have to pull a few to find which one has gone. In addition if that is not the problem lift the bonnet and on the right side there are some fuse blocks and fusible links which should have english writing as to what they are. Cheers...Neil Neil Rangiora - Mon 08th June 2009 08:07am (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : Heater/Air Con Not working Ok, yes I have lookedat all the fuses down under the dash, so i will take a look under bonnet next, hopefully they will have English writing on them as it is a Japanese Import. Cheers for that Shane Shane Auckland, New Zealand - Mon 08th June 2009 08:19am (GMT)

Subject : leaking coolant just wanted to say thanks to john for your advice about my car. i took it to a garage and you were spot on when you said about the small radiator behind the glovebox having sucked air, which was causing it to make the funny swishing noise. the car is going into the garage tomorrow to have a new water pump fitted, its gonna cost £215.00 altogether for the part and them to fit it, which isn't too bad i suppose! i told them in the garage of your advice and they were pretty impressed and also found it quite amusing that i didn't know anyone closer to ask for help! so thankyou so much and if i have anymore problems with the nissan, i know who to turn to. best wishes Teresa x Teresa nottinghamshire, UK - Wed 03rd June 2009 06:14pm (GMT)

Subject : Terrano 2.7TD warped head Hi, My Terrano dumped all its coolant out through a leaky water pump and overheated. Having replaced the pump, it was still losing water, with what looked like a blown head gasket. Now the garage (here in France) says the head's warped and will need replacing. Two questions: is there likely to be any possibility of fixing it by getting the head skimmed (first diesel I've owned so I have no idea if that's a goer.....). And if not, is the 2,400 euro he's quoting me for fitting a replacement taking the p*ss?! Ian - France - Wed 03rd June 2009 12:41pm (GMT)

Subject : Re : Terrano 2.7TD warped head If this happened in NZ I would be buying a good secondhand engine, because the excessive heat may have done things to everything else such as the injectors, turbo, rings, etc. Once "cooked" they are never the same. Diesel engines are high compression, and the chance of skimming the head to take metal off to level it and not over-raising the compression are slim to non existent. So, how did the garage diagnose the blown head gasket? Theoretically, with the high compression in the cylinder, large amounts of air bubbles should be forced into the coolant if the head gasket is leaking, and you will see that in the neck of the radiator when you have the cap off, even from cold. Another problem which demands care is if you fill the radiator and the vehicle stands overnight, the coolant could leak into the cylinder and fill it sufficiently so that when you try to start it in the morning it will "hydraulic" i.e. the coolant is incompressible, and the piston cannot squash it, therefore the connecting rod will bend. Also not good. As for the cost, well, that depends on whether there is a good second hand head, or better still, whole engine available at a reasonable price, or is he asking you to replace everything with new? That's expensive... Do you have recovery insurance to get you back home? Your local garage can take the time to source parts at least cost. Otherwise, ask him how much to fit a second hand head; if lots less than 2400 euro store your truck with him, and go home and do some buying yourself, including a gasket set. Go back with it, it should take him less than 8 hours to swap in the "new" head, and drive home.But be aware other damage may not be fixed by a new head, and that may become apparent only after you have driven some distance. Sorry I can't be of more help but 12,000 miles is a long way to bring a spanner. You have some hard decisions ahead of you. Good luck. John Christchurch, NZ - Wed 03rd June 2009 02:49pm (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : Terrano 2.7TD warped head Thanks a lot for the reply; much appreciated. I've just been in to have a look - the head's cracked, not warped (probably didn't catch the translation the first time round) so it's definitely replacement time. Had the same thought as you about the possible state of the rest of the engine (it's got 210,000 kms on it anyway.....) so time to have a look at recon engine prices I guess. Cheers again. Ian. Ian France - Wed 03rd June 2009 05:41pm (GMT) Subject : Re : Re : Terrano 2.7TD warped head Thanks a lot for the reply; much appreciated. I've just been in to have a look - the head's cracked, not warped (probably didn't catch the translation the first time round) so it's definitely replacement time. Had the same thought as you about the possible state of the rest of the engine (it's got 210,000 kms on it anyway.....) so time to have a look at recon engine prices I guess. Cheers again. Ian. Ian - France - Wed 03rd June 2009 06:49pm (GMT)

Subject : leaking coolant problem Thanks John for your advice, went straight out this morning, checked the hose for the washwipe, it had disconnected, fixed it so now its working! put some coolant into the coolant tank, strangly enough it wasn't leaking out! started engine with bonnet up, no water leaking from anywhere, took car for little drive around the block, could still hear the sound of water swishing around. sounds like when a radiator in a house is filling with water and seems to come from behind the glove compartment! so i've no idea what that is. i'm pretty sure the leak hasn't miraculously disappeared as when i parked the car on the road, there were a couple of drops on the ground. i will book it into a garage this week to get it checked out. thanks a million for your help! Teresa nottinghamshire, UK - Sun 31st May 2009 12:58pm (GMT)

Subject : Re : leaking coolant problem OK, now we're getting somewhere. The heater matrix (i.e. the small radiator that is the heater and filled with coolant circulated from the engine) is behind the glovebox area. The gurgles are air bubbles. That means air has got into the system and is circulating. Are you also checking the level in the radiator, by taking the cap off? If the coolant overflow bottle is emptying, that coolant is going somewhere. The overflow bottle provides a reserve of coolant so that the hot coolant expands into it when the engine warms up. When the engine cools down, it usually creates a slight suction (vacuum) in the radiator, and draws the coolant back from the overflow bottle into the radiator. Therefore, when you open up the actual radiator cap, the coolant level should be almost overflowing. If not, then the coolant has left the system. Where is the concentration of coolant on the ground? Near the front of the engine, (Pump,radiator hoses)at the back,(heater hoses) at the side? (frost plugs) or out of the air conditioning or heater drains (heater matrix) If you have a smell of coolant inside the car, wet carpets,fogged up windscreen, that can also indicate a leaking heater/pipe/valve. Hopefully your garage will be onto it ASAP. Regards John Christchurch, NZ - Sun 31st May 2009 01:57pm (GMT)

Subject : leaking coolant hi i hope someone can please advise me. a couple of months ago i noticed that my coolant tank was empty. i topped up but since then each time i top up the coolant drips out from underneath the engine. i know its the coolant as its the same colour. this past week i have noticed a swishing sound as i drive, like water swishing around under the bonnet. any ideas as to what it could be? i know i'll have to take it to a garage pronto, but is it still safe to drive? also today for some strange reason my washwipe is losing power and only coming out of the right side onto the windscreen. please help! Teresa nottinghamshire, UK - Sat 30th May 2009 10:52pm (GMT)

Subject : Re : leaking coolant I would suspect that your water pump (pump is behind the fan)is leaking and the swishing is coolant being distributed around the engine bay by the air from the fan. Top up the coolant and let the engine idle until normal temperature, with the bonnet up, and no doubt you will see where the water is coming from. You should really only drive a short distance to a garage, especially if this has been leaking for 2 months, the hole may have enlarged somewhat! Water pumps can be replaced by the home handyman, you just have to take out the radiator, take off the fan assembly, and remove the viscous coupling and water pump as a unit from the block. Replace with a complete replacement pump, it'll be cheaper than trying to overhaul the pump. The windscreen washer jet on the left side is possibly blocked, or the hose to the jet may have fallen off. When you have the bonnet up to check on the coolant loss, have a look at that. That is the least of your problems. Good luck, John Christchurch, NZ - Sun 31st May 2009 03:21am (GMT)

Subject : mass air flow Hi can any one tell me where the mss air flow is on a nissan mistral have been told it had gone car will not go in to over drive when cold but i am damed if i can find it paul tidmna jarrow, tyne & wear, UK - Sun 24th May 2009 09:15am (GMT)

Subject : Re : mass air flow Let's take a step back before we look at expensive "fixes'. The transmission is not meant to go into overdrive until it, and more importantly, the engine,have warmed up. For me, that takes approx 8 Kilometres. I try not to go over 2500rpm for those first kms in order to gently raise the temperature of the oils and water. Is there any other sign of a mass airflow problem? If you want to know the types of problems possible, read the previous emails. If you don't have any of these symptoms the ECU is trying to make sure your engine has a long and productive life. Thrashing a cold engine is a sure way to shorten that life. Regards, John Christchurch, NZ - Thu 28th May 2009 03:26am (GMT)

Subject : Navara cylinder head torque Hi, does anyone know what the cylinder head bolt torque settings are for a Nissan Navara d22 (2004), also need cam sprocket settings and main and big end bearing settings if poss. Thanks. chris selby, yorkshire, UK - Sat 23rd May 2009 11:31am (GMT)

Subject : Nissan 1 ton I am trying to get a door handle for my 20 year old Terrano LHD. The front end is the same as the Nissan 1 ton pick up. I am having NO luck in tracking one down. Cany anyone help....please Nige Poynton, Cheshire, UK - Thu 21st May 2009 04:26pm (GMT)

Subject : Mis-firing I have a Nissan Terrano 2.7td T Reg. It started mis-firing, blowing smoke out of the exhaust and wont go past 50mph. I took it to a local dealer. They run tests on the Engine Management, it came up with the following: fuel injection timing soleroid/injector needle lift sensor - malfunction. Because i wasn't willing to pay them £700 to fix the problem for me they wouldn't elaborate. Can anyone shed any light as to what this means and what part I will have to replace. Paul Docherty Pontefract, West Yorkshire, UK - Thu 21st May 2009 03:58pm (GMT)