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Subject : 1997 terrano 2.7tdi auto trans
Hi guys

Having some issues with my 1997 terrano 2.7tdi auto (
only 150000k) r50.
I've been noticing a lag when going from
reverse to drive, with the box taking longer than it should to engage.
Say 1-2 seconds. Gotta be careful to let it engage before giving it
any juce or it'll make a bit of a clunky groany sound that I don't
like and jerk.

Other than that it goes pretty
well.

Anyway i got it looked at at a trans service place and
what do you know they found some metal filings when they dropped the
pan. Bugger.

So, any ideas on what the root issue
is?
Have been estimated up to 4k to fix (o god), it would be good
to know more before jumping into that...

And then ideas on
what to do about it... fix, leave it, flick it, get a new trans (where
from?), general advice would be awesome.

Thanks in advance,
it's cool to see the level of help you guys are giving out here.

Dan
Christchurch, Canterbury, New Zealand - Sat 02nd July 2016 08:40am (GMT)
  • Subject : 1997 terrano 2.7tdi auto trans
    Hi Dan ,Metal filings are never good anyehere .Would of thought a
    second hand auto trans would be your best bet . There a lot of r50
    terranos being wrecked on trade me so have a look on there and ask to
    see what they are worth . Have not heard to many bad things about the
    terrano auto trans especially with only that many k's on it . Have you
    ever had the trans serviced? . If it was mine and the motor and body
    was good I would be willing to spend a couple of grand to get it up
    and running as they are still worth 5 to 6 grand to buy
    John may
    have some better info for you .Cheers Steve

    Steve
    ashburton, --- Please Select ---, New Zealand - Mon 04th July 2016 11:46am (GMT)

 
Subject : Terrano remote fob
I have lost my remote entry fob,I can buy a new one but I do not know
the part number for it,where or how can I get the correct number for
my vehicle,it is a 1997 Terrano se touring 2.7 tdi

Mark shepherd
Derby, Derbyshire, UK - Wed 01st June 2016 09:44pm (GMT)
 
Subject : Nissan Terrona II 2.4i rear brakes won't work?
Bulbs have been changed and fuses are fine???
Angela Davie
Brisbane, QLD, Australia - Fri 13th May 2016 10:45pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Nissan Terrona II 2.4i rear brakes won't work?
    Are you saying that the rear brake lights do not light up when you
    apply the brakes?
    But the fuses are good, and the bulbs are
    good?
    Then you should check two things:
    The brake switch above
    the brake pedal in the cabin for continuity (does pressing the pedal
    pull on the switch so that it makes contact inside the
    switch?)
    and the ground leads from the tail light housing to the
    chassis for corrosion which stops the completeion of the electrical
    circuit.

    Electrickery requires a path back to the battery via
    the chassis or via a separate earth wire to complete the
    circuit.

    Battery positive out, through wire, through fuse,
    through brake switch, through stop bulb, through wire to chassis, back
    to negative terminal on battery via earth straps from engine and
    gearbox.

    John
    NZ - Sat 14th May 2016 03:47am (GMT)

 
Subject : Nissan Terrona II 2.4i rear brakes won't work?
Bulbs have been changed and fuses are fine???
Angela Davie
Brisbane, QLD, Australia - Fri 13th May 2016 10:30pm (GMT)
 
Subject :
How to switch on/off rear wiper(boot door) of Nissan terrano r3m-r
johnson
kampala, makindye, uganda - Fri 22nd April 2016 06:19pm (GMT)
  • Subject :
    On the lower edge of the dash to the left of the steering column on a
    right hand drive terrano is the on/off wiper and washer switch, it
    rocks left and right to activate.
    If it does not work, the first
    thing to do is to check the fuse box (under the dash, far right side,
    next to the bonnet release, and then if the fuse is OK, go to the rear
    wiper and squirt lubricant down the shaft as far as you can, because
    the shaft can and will bind through neglect and lack of
    lubricant.
    If all that doesn't work take the interior panel off
    the rear door and check the wiring continuity to the wiper motor, them
    the wiper motor itself....

    John
    NZ - Sun 24th April 2016 10:46am (GMT)

 
Subject : Electric cooling fan
Hi my Visco fan has stuck on,2.7i inter cooler 2001 it roars like a
lion every where I go, want to dump it and fit a Kenlowe/equivalent
electric fan anybody fitted one, whats the size I fit best supplier,
having difficulty getting hold of kenlowe someone said they had gone
bust...

Tim
- UK - Mon 11th April 2016 11:56am (GMT)
  • Subject : Electric cooling fan
    Take a good hard look at the space available between the water pump
    pulley and the radiator after you have taken away the fan itself and
    the viscous coupling.
    Measure it.
    Now try and find any thin
    electric fan of any brand which will fit there.

    When you find
    it, buy it.

    You will also have to purchase a fitting that
    inserts in your top radiator hose and which houses a temp sensor, and
    wire that to a variable
    switch gizmo with relays so you can set
    the on and off temps for the electric fan.
    Plus wiring in the fans
    themselves including fuses etc.

    The theoretical size limit
    for the electric fan is one that covers the largest amount of the
    radiator.

    You don't have to go by the size of the present
    shroud as the electric fan sucks up right against the core, and when
    it is not working air flows through from the vehicle's forward
    movement.

    Whereas the viscous fan has to have a certain
    amount of clearance to cope with the possibility of the engine moving
    both sideways and back and forth, hence the plastic fan
    shroud....

    It's not a great deal of trouble to take the
    radiator out (disconnect the auto trans hoses of course0 and replace
    the viscous fan coupling..usually they come attached to a new water
    pump as well.
    Look up the youtube videos on how to repair and set
    the viscous coupling to work properly.

    John
    Nz - Wed 13th April 2016 11:14am (GMT)

    • Subject : Electric cooling fan
      Thanks for that, just had an email from Kenlowe they no longer
      manufacture aftermarket fans or give advice it's a sad day as I have
      used them for years. Not much distance between viscous coupling and
      radiator but I guess I could squeeze on in, will try demon
      tweeks.
      Thanks guys


      - Fri 15th April 2016 10:38pm (GMT)

  • Subject : Electric cooling fan
    For your edification and
    delight:


    http://www.jegs.com/c/Fans_Electric-Fans/10117/
    10002/-1

    or you can look at second hand units ex bmWs etc

    John
    - nz - Wed 13th April 2016 11:20am (GMT)

    • Subject : Electric cooling fan
      Kenlowe certainly not dead
      yet....

      http://www.kenlowe.com/CoolingRetrofit.php

      John
      NZ - Fri 15th April 2016 12:50pm (GMT)

 
Subject : help please
I have owned my Nissan terrano regulus for 3 years now. I had it
imported......it came with a Japanese manual so I have done alot of
researching.......i recently converted my electronic injection pump to
a mechanical one as the electronic one failed.

I have
recently noticed an antifreeze leak.....I traced it to the side of the
engine......took it to a garage....if standing infront of the car
facing the engine.......its leaking from the left side.


There is a cover there.....which the Mechanic can take off.
But being an extremely rare vehicle here....no one has knowledge of
what is under the cover....we believe it is either the frost plugs or
possibly a gasget.

I'm just trying to order the parts I need
so it can be fixed.

FYI all of my parts take 4 weeks to get
here as I only know of a supplier in Japan.

Please help.

Amber
london, Ontario, canada - Fri 04th March 2016 12:35am (GMT)
  • Subject : help please
    Sorry......it's a 1997 Nissan terrano regulus right hand drive with
    the KD-JRR50 model QD32 engine

    Thanks

    Amber
    london, Ontario, canada - Fri 04th March 2016 01:20am (GMT)

    • Subject : help please
      Most likely to be the inbuilt engine oil cooler...see video
      below...


      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hohp1Vr3H9o

      John
      NZ - Fri 04th March 2016 12:06pm (GMT)

  • Subject : help please
    bigger engine and cooler plate on side of block but same
    principles


    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mgiuaPLMePk

    John
    - NZ - Fri 04th March 2016 01:06pm (GMT)

 
Subject : rear passenger window won't open
Hi bought some wind deflectors for my terrano and can't open rear
passenger window all others work fine ,no noise of moto wen I press
switch ,could this be the moto?any ideas thanks

paul
swansea, West Glamorgan, UK - Fri 26th February 2016 04:22pm (GMT)
  • Subject : rear passenger window won't open
    Could be coincidence, the motor could have burnt out, the module in
    the door which senses obstructions could have fritzed itself, there
    may be no power getting to that door, the lead in wire 9look for a
    rubber coated couple of wires going from the pillar to the door) may
    have been broken for one reason or another, the switch either in the
    driver's control or on the door itself could be stuffed....you will
    need to get out the voltage meter and see what is going on. The motor
    is common to a lot of Nissans, you just have to get the one that is
    for the right or left hand side of the car (opposite rotation). The
    serial number on the motor will tell you which to get from a
    wreckers..simple to disassemble the door, take out the motorised track
    and replace the motor when it is out of the car.

    John
    NZ - Tue 01st March 2016 09:33am (GMT)

 
Subject : Wiper Stalk
Hi,
can any one help I require a wiper stalk for a 1995 Nissan
Mistral. Or where I can get parts for a Mistral of this year in the UK
as there are a few things I require for her. Any help would be most
grateful.
Thanks
Nads

Nads
Ottershaw, Surrey, UK - Sun 21st February 2016 11:09am (GMT)
  • Subject : Wiper Stalk
    Google search:

    second hand car parts uk

    Seems a lot
    of companies now online to make your quest easier???

    Let us
    know how you get on.....

    John
    NZ - Thu 25th February 2016 03:44am (GMT)

    • Subject : Wiper Stalk
      Hi John,
      I have been searching for months now with no joy. They do
      not fit our model. But thank you we will have to jam the wiper switch
      to constant when snowing and raining.
      Thanks again

      Nads
      Ottershaw, Surrey, UK - Sat 05th March 2016 10:24am (GMT)

  • Subject : Wiper Stalk
    http://www.partshark.co.uk/used-car-parts-breaking-vehicles/breaker-po
    pup-details/1995-nissan-terrano-/41/9512/?ajax=true&width=700&height=5
    20

    John
    - nz - Thu 25th February 2016 03:51am (GMT)

 
Subject : Rear Seat
How do you remove the 2 seated rear seats from a 1995 Mistral as I
have tried everything. Or do I need to unbolt them from the floor

Nads
Ottershaw, Surrey, UK - Sat 20th February 2016 12:13pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Rear Seat
    I bought the same truck about a year ago now and like you love it. I
    have the same year as yours and I have got the back seats out on a few
    occasions but normally by luck than anything else. One thing I do
    always do though I move the middle row out the way and fold the backs
    all the way forward then on both mounting points there is a rather
    strong metal lever which you flip over I think. I can't remember fully
    and sometimes it take some messing about. I haven't noticed any red
    tabs or anything that actually show you what to
    pull.

    http://forum.difflock.com/viewtopic.php?t=71862&sid=81b
    bae7735b7468324be808d3487dd21

    John
    NZ - Sat 20th February 2016 08:50pm (GMT)

    • Subject : Rear Seat
      Good morning,
      Thank you I will now try this as I can not see the
      leaver that you are talking about.
      thanks
      Nads

      Nads
      Ottershaw, Surrey, UK - Sun 21st February 2016 11:03am (GMT)

  • Subject : Rear Seat
    If you are referring to the third row seat, I am sure you will have to
    unbolt them to remove.Have done this on my own mistral.Dont forget to
    replace the bolts after removal to stop water ingress.

    tom
    auckland, new zealand - Wed 24th February 2016 07:00pm (GMT)

    • Subject : Rear Seat
      Hi everyone thanks the 3rd row was unbolted and taken out it was a
      pain doing it.......Can any one assist with a wiper stalk for it as
      I'm about to do along trip and would be great if it worked properly on
      the trip.
      Thanks

      Nads
      Ottershaw, Surrey, UK - Wed 24th February 2016 07:03pm (GMT)

 
Subject : AT malfunction
Hi! I have a Nissan Terrano TD27 with AT transmission. Problem is it
won't shift from 1st gear to 2nd gear unless yiu hit the 4000 rpm
first and it will shift to 3rd and so on. I already drained and
cleaned the tranny box and filter and replaced with new ATF but to no
avail. I need your expert advise on this, thanks.

Jimmy B.
Manila, Philippines - Sun 07th February 2016 03:45pm (GMT)
  • Subject : AT malfunction
    I, too, have and am still experiencing the old "sticks in first when
    cold, especially after coming to a stop at traffic lights within 2 km
    of home"
    My solution which has worked so far is to pull to the
    side of the road, engage reverse and back up 10 metres. This seems to
    loosen up whatever is sticking in the auto and it then drives normally
    for the rest of the day, week, month...until unpredictably the the
    problem hits again.
    you have done what I did, new filter, new
    fluid, and I even fitted an extra in line filter with a magnet as well
    as pleated paper core to eliminate all possible ferrous particles etc
    down to X microns.
    I will see if I can locate a problem flow chart
    re the trans and let you know what i find.
    Others may have the
    same problem and a (hopefully) simple and cheap solution.

    John
    NZ - Mon 08th February 2016 04:29am (GMT)

    • Subject : AT malfunction
      Magnafine
      filter
      http://www.magnefinefilters.com/Magnefine-3-8-Magnetic-Inli
      ne-Transmission-Filter-R038M.htm
      But even with this, though it has
      reduced the incidence, the problem remains.
      P.S. my vehicle has
      219,000km....

      John
      NZ - Mon 08th February 2016 04:33am (GMT)

    • Subject : AT malfunction
      Thanks John! Will try in my Terrano what you did in your car. Maybe
      your solution to that AT problem will work fine with mine also. I'll
      let you know at once.

      Jimmy
      Manila, Phils. - Mon 08th February 2016 12:28pm (GMT)

      • Subject : AT malfunction
        Jimmy, how did it work out for you?
        John
        NZ - Mon 04th April 2016 11:05am (GMT)

 
Subject : chassis
hi there , could you tell me if Nissan mistrals[1994] have a full
chassis ? [ I am contemplating purchasing one and chopping it down to
a flat deck ute ]

pete
wairoa, nz, nz - Fri 05th February 2016 10:27pm (GMT)
  • Subject : chassis
    http://www.sbtjapan.com/kp-nissan-mistral-review

    As for
    safety measures, the Nissan mistral have, a ladder frame chassis


    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan_Terrano_II

    Whi
    le the Terrano II had two or five doors and a body-on-frame
    platform,


    John
    NZ - Sat 20th February 2016 08:44pm (GMT)

 
Subject : chassis
hi there , could you tell me if Nissan mistrals[1994] have a full
chassis ? [ I am contemplating purchasing one and chopping it down to
a flat deck ute ]

pete
wairoa, nz, nz - Fri 05th February 2016 10:25pm (GMT)
  • Subject : chassis
    Im pretty sure it does have full chassis .Shared the same d21 model
    chassis with the terrano and navara .
    Would be an interesting
    conversion and quite possibly one of a kind .We had a mistral for
    quite a few years and was quite a capable 4wd . They just looked
    narrow as they were quite tall compared to the terrano .

    Steve
    nz - Sat 06th February 2016 06:37am (GMT)

 
Subject :
Hi john . Our trusty r50 terrano has started the famous rear end
wobble . It seems to be fine driving around corners but when is quite
bad when you give it throttle then take your foot off the gas . Which
bushes are most likely to be worn . My guess would be the rod which
runs parallel with with the axle and is attached to the chassis and
the diff housing . (Panhard rod ??) Hopeto get up on hoist this week
for a look .
Steve

Steve
- nz - Sun 31st January 2016 05:42pm (GMT)
  • Subject :
    Believe it or not, Steve, it is the bushes at the ends of the radius
    arms, which being OEM rubber, degrade and allow the axle to move
    forwards and backwards under acceleration and deceleration..but not
    equally at each side, thereby steering the vehicle causing it to
    "wobble".
    But you need to replace the panhard rod bushes,
    too.
    You will need a very good hydraulic press because the rubber
    bushes are surrounded by a steel sleeve, and the steel sleeves rust
    very solidly into the bush formed in the radius arm.
    Using a
    hyrdraulic 20 ton press with a socket just the right size to exert
    pressure on the edge of the bush sleeve...scary but doable, and be
    prepared for a big bang when the rust loses it's
    grip...
    Supercheap or Repco can order all the bushes in, or if you
    know the right people in the trade it shouldn't take long to source
    them. they are also advertised on TME, of course.
    I used Nolathane
    from Aussie, so far have only done the lower control arms, the upper
    are shorter so have less effect on the steering, and as OEM they have
    lasted over 220k without signs of cracking.
    plenty of Google-Fu
    will get some amazing complaints made to the National Tranportation
    authority by Americans that have been scared to death of their killer
    vehicle, have replaced everything they thought could be causing it,
    only to finally find that they could have replaced the offending
    bushes by buying and then fitting ready made new arms in a couple of
    hours.......
    They are normal maintenance items, they are rubber
    and they wear out.
    Have fun....

    John
    NZ - Tue 02nd February 2016 10:55am (GMT)

    • Subject :
      Thanks John . Pretty sure it has had the bushes done before as they
      look like the red nolathane ones . So are they easier to press out
      than the OEM bushes?

      Steve
      nz - Sat 06th February 2016 06:41am (GMT)

      • Subject :
        If they have been done once before, they should be easier to press out
        the second time..unless they have been immersed in water a lot,
        crossing rivers, launching boats etc.....
        IIRC the Nolathane
        bushes are assembled by pressing in the poly bushes first, then
        inserting the steel inner bush. Reversing this procedure might help
        with easy withdrawal....

        John
        NZ - Tue 09th February 2016 10:55am (GMT)

 
Subject : Old 1980's Nissan Pickups
I remember the old 1980's Nissan Pickups, are there no forums or
information on them any more? Does anyone know what their exact model
name was? Are they long gone now?

Philip
London, London, UK - Sat 30th January 2016 07:22pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Old 1980's Nissan Pickups
    those pickups 9utes, flatdecks etc) went to all parts of the world.
    there was the 620 model, the 720 model, the Navarra, the D21 hardbody,
    the bakkie, etc etc.
    Google-fu is your friend.

    Google ;
    1980s nissan
    pickups

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Datsun_Truck


    John
    NZ - Sun 31st January 2016 08:24am (GMT)

 
Subject : Mr
First time 4x4 owner in need of knowledge.When I put my terrano 2 into
four wheel drive it feels like it engages and the light comes on. But
it doesnt work the front wheels or props but the truck still holds
back in 4wd low range. Any ideas

Ash
Tiverton, Devon, UK - Thu 28th January 2016 07:11pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Mr
    How do you engage the 4WD system? Switch on dash, or lever on
    floor?

    If lever on floor, the linkage may be frozen with
    rust.

    Crawl under the vehicle with the engine off, Hi\Lo
    selector in 2H.
    Try and turn the front drive shaft by
    hand.
    If the hubs are engaging, you will be able to turn a small
    amount and hear the click in the front hubs as the splines engage,
    then the shaft will be locked in to the hubs.
    On a level surface,
    with the main gearbox transmission in neutral, the handbrake off, you
    will be able to move the vehicle forward just by turning the front
    prop shaft by hand.
    Then if you spin the shaft back the other way,
    you will hear the hubs disengage and the shaft will
    freewheel.
    This is what happens when you drive in reverse to
    unlock the front hubs...


    Now you will know that the
    front hubs engage IF the prop shaft is turned.

    The only way
    to turn that shaft normally is to select 4WD, high or low.

    If
    you have 4 axle stands and a good hydraulic jack, and don't mind
    taking a small chance at disaster, jack both front and rear axles off
    the ground and suspend them on the axle stands so no wheels are
    touching the ground.
    You can brace the chassis with other axle
    stands, or large flat pieces of wood, as long as you do not allow the
    braces anywhere near the wheels...

    Carefully get into the
    vehicle and start the engine. With the main gearbox in neutral (or
    park with an auto) move the 4wd selector to 4 low.
    Now select 1st
    gear and let out the clutch.
    Use a helper to see if at least one
    of the front wheels are spinning, and at least one of the rear
    wheels.



    I say one of the wheels at each axle
    because normally the front diff is neither "locked", nor Limited slip
    diff (LSD) and sometimes the rear axle is not "locked" or even fitted
    with a Limited slip differential either.
    LSD means one wheel will
    spin faster than the other, but the slower one will "kick"
    periodically as if trying to catch up with the spinning wheel..thereby
    giving limited traction....3 wheel drive rather than 2

    If the
    rear wheel (s) spin, but the fronts do not move, degungify the Hi/Lo
    lever where it enters the box until the mechanism moves smoothly and
    freely.

    DEGUNGIFYING MUST TAKE PLACE WITHE THE VEHICLE BACK
    ON THE GROUND< ENGINE OFF< IN PARK OR NEUTRAL WITH HANDBRAKE
    ON>>>>please.

    Basically, if you wait more than a couple of
    years before moving the levers, they will rust up through salt, grime,
    snow, water etc.

    Preventative maintenance is simple; once a
    month, all through the year find s green lane with mud or wet grass or
    a gravelled road with a loose shingle surface and engage the system
    and give it a workout.
    Any surface that allows slippage of the
    wheels so the transmission does not "wind up" and ensure that a very
    expensive steel part does not go "ping"

    Get back to us if you
    want further info, but a visit to your local library should provide a
    fund of 4WD how-to books for your edification and delight.

    John
    NZ - Sun 31st January 2016 08:15am (GMT)

  • Subject : Mr
    I had that, someone had sheared the lugs that transmit the drive in
    the f hubs.get a parts diagram of the hub (my dealer printed one off
    for me) undo the allen bolts pull off the cover and have a look.in
    mine the broken bits had been removed.

    ger
    - UK - Sun 22nd May 2016 11:08pm (GMT)

 
Subject : Interiors
Hello All
can anyone tell me in a 2002 nissan terrano II Dashborad
fill fit into the 1995 terrano II?

LeoDumbi
cabinda, angola, Angola - Mon 25th January 2016 03:16pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Interiors
    The chances of anyone else in the world having done this are very slim
    to none. Though it was worth asking, you will now have to do some
    dismantling and measuring
    if you want the answer to your
    question.
    Do you have access to either of the vehicles?

    John
    NZ - Tue 02nd February 2016 11:00am (GMT)

 
Subject : terrano won't start
Hi could any one help me with my terrano not starting,it's starts
fine most of the time but when I lock it (with key fob )it won't
start doesn't seen there's enough power in the battery ,before I dash
out to buy a new battery do you think this is my problem?

paul
swansea, West Glamorgan , UK - Fri 15th January 2016 03:50pm (GMT)
  • Subject : terrano won't start
    Yes
    John
    NZ - Sun 17th January 2016 07:29am (GMT)

    • Subject : terrano won't start
      Thanks for your reply will get new battery tomorrow than again
      paul
      swansea, West Glamorgan, UK - Sun 17th January 2016 07:36pm (GMT)

      • Subject : terrano won't start
        So, how did the battery replacement work out?
        Did you have to
        also reprogram the security system to get the fob integrated once
        again?

        John
        NZ - Tue 09th February 2016 10:57am (GMT)

        • Subject : terrano won't start
          Hi John sort haven't been on here for a while yes fitted new
          battery all good now, my truck is 1999 model didn't have to do
          nothing else she's going well now thanks

          paul
          swansea, West Glamorgan, UK - Fri 26th February 2016 04:14pm (GMT)

 
Subject : Nissan 2.7 td
Truck won't star since I took it for a swim. Took on water. Got a
snorkel so engine ran then died. Got all water out, drained oil, new
oil filter, drain fuel and filter, new glows. Everything mechanical is
working, just not firing up. Anyone got any ideas? I'm think
CPU,rescue truck was land rover, drowned too! Got it running now , no
computers just mechanics, both trucks have had same things done! Help
gota beat the landy!!

Oj
- Nz - Mon 28th December 2015 10:31am (GMT)
  • Subject : Nissan 2.7 td
    What year Terrano?
    Early one do not have ECU, are all mechanical
    thank you Lord...
    Just to clarify....
    Does starter motor turn
    over engine quickly as per normal, or slowly..perhaps too slowly to
    start engine? (starter/contacts/battery problem, wet starter motor
    internals, dirt/sand?)
    Have you tried spraying WD40 into intake
    of turbo while someone else spins engine over on starter?
    WD40
    will allow engine to start and run while the spray is going into the
    turbo intake.
    If engine starts using the WD40 you have an
    injection problem, probably the injection pump/lines/injectors full of
    water.
    One last thing, have you replaced the air filter, and
    checked that the old filter didn't dissolve/come apart and block the
    air intake to the engine...

    Give us more
    info....

    P.S. 4WD clubs teach you that the first thing to do
    when attempting the crossing of a body of water is to try to find a
    bridge.

    Happy New Year!!!

    John
    NZ - Thu 31st December 2015 12:09pm (GMT)

 
Subject : Transmission oil pushed through breather hose in four wheel Nissan Navara
I am driving Nissan Navara Vehicle. One day four wheel transmission
oil from the breather hose flew out. Could I know the reason please.

shailendra Prakash
Tavua, Viti Levu, Fiji Islands - Wed 16th December 2015 07:44am (GMT)
  • Subject : Transmission oil pushed through breather hose in four wheel Nissan Navara
    Most likely you drove through deep water like a stream or even the
    sea, like when launching or recovering a boat, and water has gotten
    into the transmission, foamed up and expanded, pushing the foamy mix
    out the breather. Drain and refill all the axles and gearboxes, as the
    water you drove through may have gotten into all of them, and it is
    better to be safe than sorry...

    John
    NZ - Wed 16th December 2015 09:52pm (GMT)

 
Subject : Re. Nissan Mistral engine of while driving
I have Nissan Mistral 1997 model. From 1week while driving car
suddenly engine shut down
May I know reason for that?? Please
provide solutions to repair

Kunal Wawge
Mauritius , Mauritius , Mauritius - Sat 12th December 2015 06:23pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Re. Nissan Mistral engine of while driving
    You'll have to provide bettwer details than that if we are to try to
    help you. Does the starter motor turn the engine over when you turn
    the key? If not, look at the battery and the battery connections. get
    back with a better description of the troubles you are having....

    John
    NZ - Mon 14th December 2015 10:02pm (GMT)

 
Subject : handbrake light
Hi I failed my warrant as the handbrake light is oo on the dash but
handbrake is working fine on my Nissan mistral 1997

sue gilmore
christchurch, aranui, nz - Mon 07th December 2015 09:48pm (GMT)
  • Subject : handbrake light
    The light will stay on if the brake fluid is low in the reservoir . I
    would of thought whoever did your warrent would of checked that So
    maybe that is not the problem . It is normally atached to the fire
    wall on the trivers side .

    Steve
    nz - Tue 08th December 2015 05:03am (GMT)

    • Subject : handbrake light
      Its the park brake.the fluid is fine ,but thanks

      susan
      christchurch, aranui, nz - Thu 10th December 2015 11:34pm (GMT)

      • Subject : handbrake light
        I would check the switch under the handbrake pivot,could be stuck in
        the on posistion.

        tom
        auckland, nz - Thu 10th December 2015 11:57pm (GMT)

 
Subject : 2004 3ltr Terrano
Ihave a Terrano which I have owned and
maintaind from 12 months
old,recently it
has started loosing cooling water with
no
external leaks,is this a common fault,
orginally I needed
to refill the expansion tank now its the rad,any ideas
please

Peter Cleminson
Manchester, Lancashire, UK - Fri 13th November 2015 08:49pm (GMT)
  • Subject : 2004 3ltr Terrano
    Did the engine get hot at all , Any bubbles in the radiator when the
    engine is running ?

    Steve
    nz - Sun 15th November 2015 10:42am (GMT)

    • Subject : 2004 3ltr Terrano
      Steve thanks for the reply,engine runs at
      normal temp,no
      bubles,have noticed that with the heater off the expansion tank keeps
      the rad full,heater on level drops in radiator,coolant loss is
      500m/100 miles,sump oil level is static,hope this helps,peter

      Peter Cleminson
      Manchester, Lancashire, UK - Mon 16th November 2015 07:17pm (GMT)

      • Subject : 2004 3ltr Terrano
        Sounds like it could be a leaking heater core but that would mean that
        you would have wet carpets in the foot well under the dash. Maybe
        leaking heater hose ?

        Steve
        NZ - Tue 17th November 2015 06:25am (GMT)

        • Subject : 2004 3ltr Terrano
          Steve,have not been able to find any external leaks,have disconected
          the heater hoses and connected pipes from the engine to see what
          happens because the heater has a drain tray which exits near the
          chassis and is difficult too see, will let you know in a few
          days.

          Peter Cleminson
          Manchester, Lancashire, UK - Wed 18th November 2015 04:15pm (GMT)

          • Subject : 2004 3ltr Terrano
            Steve,air temperature dropped so had to reconnect heater also had
            aproblem finding a suitable piece of rubber pipe,
            will have
            another try next week,Peter.

            PeterCleminson
            manchester, Lancs, UK - Thu 26th November 2015 07:49pm (GMT)

            • Subject : 2004 3ltr Terrano
              Did you notice any water loss in the time you had it disconnected?
              steve
              nbz - Mon 30th November 2015 08:23am (GMT)

              • Subject : 2004 3ltr Terrano
                Steve unfortunately I used a piece of
                convoluted plastic pipe
                which would not
                seal under pressure,I now have a piece
                of
                19mm rubber hose and will try again in a few days,will let you know
                when i have
                some reliable info.Peter

                Peter cleminson
                Manchester, Lancs, UK - Wed 02nd December 2015 07:00pm (GMT)

                • Subject : 2004 3ltr Terrano
                  Steve,cooling water loss with heater dissconected is approx 500mls/100
                  miles,
                  it is beginning to sound serious.Peter

                  Peter cleminson
                  Manchester, Lancs, UK - Wed 09th December 2015 07:38pm (GMT)

                  • Subject : 2004 3ltr Terrano
                    Is it an auto gearbox ? Pretty sure there is an oil cooler / heat
                    exchanger in the bottom of the radiator that cools the trans oil using
                    the engine coolant . Check your trans oil dipstick to make sure there
                    is no milky stuff on it . Had that happen to my old toyota cressida
                    back in the day . Stuffed the trans .

                    steve
                    - Thu 10th December 2015 08:00am (GMT)

                    • Subject : 2004 3ltr Terrano
                      Steve,it's a manual,sump oil no change,have stood in a pit underneath
                      with the sump guard off and engine running and can't see any
                      leaks,500ml over 100 miles must be a very small drip every 5
                      min's,thanks for your interest,Peter

                      Peter cleminson
                      Manchester, Lancs, UK - Thu 10th December 2015 03:45pm (GMT)

                      • Subject : 2004 3ltr Terrano
                        Whatever coolant additive you have in the system will leave a trace of
                        that colour from any leak..so go over the exterior of the engine with
                        the engine off but hot as in just after a good run.. Pay special
                        attention around the water pump area; it is obviously happening when
                        the system is hot, and the pressure in it is 14lbs sq inch. If the
                        leak is external, fine droplets will come out then and should leave a
                        mark, or a very clean patch somewhere on the engine...
                        Otherwise
                        you will have to pressurise the system by attaching a special pump to
                        the radiator neck, and look for leaks. It may come to having to take
                        out the injectors after leaving the pressure on for say 48 hours, and
                        seeing if coolant comes out of any cylinder when you spin the engine
                        over with the starter, as the coolant will be thrown out as the
                        pistons go up and down...That would confirm a head gasket breach into
                        the cylinder. The leak could also be into the engine oil galleries so
                        look for more than usual- in- winter moisture induced emulsion.
                        (Creamy foamy oil) Good luck.

                        John
                        NZ - Mon 14th December 2015 10:14pm (GMT)

                        • Subject : 2004 3ltr Terrano
                          Steve,thanks for the advice,will see what I can do,may take a while as
                          we are going to look after my daughters house while she is in
                          hospital,I will get the car over the pit in the next day or two and
                          keep you posted,thanks again,Peter

                          Peter cleminson
                          Manchester, Lancs, UK - Tue 15th December 2015 12:19pm (GMT)

                          • Subject : 2004 3ltr Terrano
                            Steve,in the last few days the heater fan has stopped working on no2
                            speed,I suspect the resistor is faulty,its not urgent but I dont know
                            where its located,could you point me in the right direction
                            please,thanks Peter ps had a quick look at the pump cant see any leaks
                            but will spend more time first opportunity i get.

                            Peter Cleminson
                            Manchester, Lancs, UK - Wed 16th December 2015 07:59pm (GMT)

                        • Subject : 2004 3ltr Terrano
                          John & Steve Thanks for the advice,problem turned out to be cracks in
                          the cylinder head above valve seats in cyls 1&2,cured by an expensive
                          new head oil in to one cyl
                          and water in to the other,again thanks
                          for
                          the help, Peter

                          Peter cleminson
                          Manchester, Lancs, UK - Tue 02nd February 2016 07:25pm (GMT)

 
Subject : Terrano workshop manual
Hi there,
I am desperately trying to get hold of a Nissan Terrano
2.7 ll service manual to cover my 2001 TDi. Paperback seems to by as
difficult to get hold of as rocking horse poo.
Does anyone have
one or a link to a decent pdf file to download.
Cheers
Kev

Kevin Durrant
Newtownards, County Down NI, Northern Ireland - Mon 26th October 2015 08:38pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Terrano workshop manual
    I have the service manual in PDF. Do you still require it? If so, send
    me an email then i shall send it back to you.

    Michael Etale
    Nairobi, *Not Applicable, UK - Wed 06th January 2016 11:33am (GMT)

    • Subject : Terrano workshop manual
      Warning Will Robinson possible scam alert
      Jason
      outer mongolia - Tue 02nd February 2016 11:03am (GMT)

 
Subject : dust cap sizes
i have a split dust cover on my front dog bone steering link bar the
bar is not ols so i want to replace the split cover has anyone any
idea of the dimensions so that i can buy a replacement

john
canterbury, UK - Wed 21st October 2015 08:32pm (GMT)
  • Subject : dust cap sizes
    If you can see it, you will be able to reach it.Get under there with a
    set of calipers and measure the torn boot.
    You will have to take
    the drag link out anyway to fit it.
    I was able to buy a dust boot
    for a ball joint for another vehicle only because the factor I went to
    had scrapped about 10 brand new ball joints and had kept the caps and
    their retaining springs.
    You may have to do a lot of telephoning
    before you find the right dust boot....

    John
    NZ - Thu 22nd October 2015 10:58am (GMT)

 
Subject : stalling
I have a 1995 mistral 2.7 diesel auto
in the morning it starts on
the button,
then after a couple of minutes it starts stuttering
the just stalls, even when driving, any ideas please

keith
sheerness, Kent, UK - Mon 28th September 2015 09:50am (GMT)
  • Subject : stalling
    The stalling after a couple of minutes: are you actually driving
    along at over 20mph, or under 20 and / or coming to a stop or trying
    to accelerate away?
    The reason behind the question is that the
    starting on the button means the glow plugs are obviously working at
    the start; however there is a tricky little relay which activates
    until the temperature of the coolant reaches 50c, or the speed of the
    vehicle reaches/exceeds 20mph.
    This relay cycles the glow plugs
    to keep "the fire lit", so to speak.
    How quickly can you restart
    after the engine stops?
    When the engine is warmed up, normal
    operating temperature, is there any stalling/stuttering then?
    Have
    you recently done any maintenance, e.g. changed fuel filter, changed
    battery etc etc?
    You could test the operation of the glow plugs by
    connecting a multi meter to the buss bar that connects all the plugs
    together and noting the voltage at start, and the lower voltage that
    occurs when the relay cycles the glow plugs at a lower voltage until
    the parameters are met to cease operation...

    John
    NZ - Wed 30th September 2015 10:18am (GMT)

 
Subject : 3.0 patrol
Hi,

I have a 2001 3.0 tdi patrol.Im looking for ways to gain
more power out of the engine? The problem is when towing? engine temp
guage rises very quickly and is very underpowered?
any help would
be appreciated?

Thanks Doug.

DOUG WHITTAKER
coin, malaga, spain - Fri 18th September 2015 02:41pm (GMT)
  • Subject : 3.0 patrol
    Doug,
    You have two choices...
    if you are happy at all other
    times with the performance of the vehicle,but it is too underpowered
    for towing...reduce the size of the caravan, or slow down and enjoy
    life in the slow lane.

    If you can't stand the performance of
    the vehicle overall, and it's getting you down, change your vehicle to
    one with higher horsepower.
    The 3.0 is known to be weak on
    horsepower, and in Aus and NZ has the least hp of all it's
    competitors.

    You can't change that.
    You could install a
    new more powerful engine, but you would create an
    orphan.

    Your choice.
    Spend money on better cooling
    system, new radiator, extra electric fans, aux engine oil cooler and
    extra large auto trans cooler (with fans) and still lack hp uphill, or
    change the vehicle....

    John
    nz - Wed 23rd September 2015 09:56am (GMT)

    • Subject : 3.0 patrol
      Google 3.0 Nissan diesel problems and be prepared to spend an hour or
      two reading about problems especially with pre 2003 engines..Aussies
      are blocking EGR off, catch can on PCV from tappet cover to turbo
      inlet, extra large inter cooler to cool charge air down to improve HP,
      EGT gauge to know when to back off and avoid grenading the engine,
      etc,etc....

      John
      NZ - Wed 23rd September 2015 10:28am (GMT)

 
Subject : Terrano II Turbo
Hi there. I have happily had my 2000 2.7 TDI Terrano II for 13 years.
No major mechanical problems. However, I have noticed that I no
longer hear the sound of the turbo when it kicks out at cruise speed.
Consumption has increased. Could it be that the turbo stays on? Or
could it be a pipe that has worn or cracked. Mileage 277 000 odd
kms.
This lady would appreciate any advice.

Marie

Marie Rossouw
Johannesburg, South Africa - Thu 10th September 2015 08:35am (GMT)
  • Subject : Terrano II Turbo
    check very carefully all the rubber piping to and from the turbo
    intake for any splits, holes etc. take the rubber hoses off and bend
    and twist them because the rubber could be perished and either let air
    out, or let unfiltered, unmetered air in.
    If you have access to a
    pressure gauge, attach it to to a point on the pressurised side of the
    intake manifold and read the pressure while driving, accelerating,
    backing off, and cruising.
    Also check the inter cooler for oil
    leaks. If you can see where oil is leaking out, there is a hole...this
    will let out the turbo pressurised air.
    The oil that goes through
    the intercooler is blow by fumes from the engine..it comes from the
    tappet cover, down a small tube and into the rubber air intake hose
    between the air filter and the turbo mouth.
    You can take the whole
    inter cooler off and clean it out. It can be done b y sloshing a good
    amount of petrol through it several times until the petrol comes out
    without oil in it, but if you do this let it stand outside for 24
    hours for all the fumes to dissipate..otherwise big boom in engine and
    lots of repairs needed.....
    By cleaning the inter cooler it
    restores the efficiency of cooling the turbo pressurised air which
    provides more power.

    John
    NZ - Sun 13th September 2015 11:20am (GMT)

 
Subject : Oil smell
Strong smell of gear oil once car is warm when opening any window on a
journey

Stuart
Banbury, Oxon, UK - Wed 12th August 2015 07:57pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Oil smell
    Could be oil out of the seal on the back of your transfer case where
    the drive shaft connects . ( be nice to know what your driving) Could
    be flicking onto the exhaust .

    steve
    ashburton, nz - Thu 13th August 2015 10:12am (GMT)

  • Subject : Oil smell
    When you open any window of a vehicle moving at speed, there is a
    vacuum produced which sucks air in through every available gap..which
    on WD21 Terranos includes the area of the gear
    selectors/handbrake/console. The gearbox is right there, and the front
    diff vent will give off a sulphur smell when hot.
    So, to combat
    this, as Steve said, check for actual leaks from the seals of the
    transfer case, front diff and manual gearbox. Without jacking the
    vehicle up (if it is a Terrano) you should be able (depending on your
    size) to crawl under with a torch (flashlight) and have a look up into
    the console area between the seats where the gear sticks enter the
    cabin, and see if the gaiters/packing have tears or have rotted away
    through old age and heat.
    The way to combat the leak of hot smelly
    air is to put the ventilation controls on fresh air, the fan on at
    least 1, and depending on the heat, turn the a/c on as well.
    Leave
    the windows wound up.
    While the fan is working it will boost
    pressure in the cabin, keeping the smells and transmission heat out.

    John
    - NZ - Fri 14th August 2015 06:17am (GMT)

  • Subject : Oil smell
    The is oil smell every time I hit 100 km/h
    Albert Moyo
    Harare, Zimbabwe, Zimbabwe - Thu 29th October 2015 10:07am (GMT)

    • Subject : Oil smell
      aS i SAID ABOVE, WHEN YOU OPEN A WINDOW IT CREATES A VACUUN. THIS
      SUCKS THE OIL SMELLS AND HEAT INTO THE CAR THROUGH THE GAP BY THE
      HANDBRAKE. cLOSE YOUR WINDOWS, TURN ON a/c, TURN ON FAN, FICK AIR
      INTAKE TO FRESH AIR IN....NO MORE PROBLEMS.

      jOHN
      nz - Mon 14th December 2015 10:19pm (GMT)

 
Subject : Manuals for WD21 Terranos...90 t0 96 including engine 2.7TD
https://www.mediafire.com/folder/161nscp6k52ztup,8nn5e800wdpawnp,ndz0k
cd4c1v6m6y,96j8vtfug9oppt3,qfdxonsnfooqbhu,utopaeftxcjxtzn,08w8kl7pfii
mp8y,6t188a4slna0lw8/shared

John
- NZ - Mon 27th July 2015 11:57am (GMT)
 
Subject : tie rod ends
Hi haven done alot of work on my terrano 11 1999, thought i,d change
upper front ball joint and tie rods has rubber boots were
gone,haveing purchase the parts ,ball joint easy,tie rods hard to
remove rusted on,any way got them off ,now my new tie rods are realy
tight to fit on were the castle nuts go on,are they supposed to be
this tight,can any one help,i cant get them on thanks

Paul Cullen
swansea , glmorgan, UK - Tue 21st July 2015 10:11am (GMT)
  • Subject : tie rod ends
    The taper of the ball joint has to be drawn up tight by the
    castellated nut; this takes quite a lot of effort but is perfectly
    normal..and one of the reasons you have to usually use a pickle fork
    device or a screw driven device to unseat the taper when disassembling
    it.
    If the nut winds onto the thread easily before you use it to
    draw the taper into position all should be well....
    But do ensure
    that the tie rod ends that you bought are the right ones...if the
    taper is way out, the threaded part way short, then you may have been
    sold the wrong tie rod ends.
    Compare the old with the
    new..steepness of taper, overall length of threaded part
    etc.....
    Parts assistants have been known to make
    mistakes.
    After you get it all back together, get a professional
    wheel alignment done. Talk to the mechanic and ask him to run his eye
    over the work you have done?????

    John
    NZ - Wed 22nd July 2015 11:13am (GMT)

    • Subject : tie rod ends
      Thanks for your reply think i have been sold wrong ones,will sort it
      and get tracking done thanks

      Paul Cullen
      swansea, wales, UK - Fri 24th July 2015 02:11pm (GMT)

    • Subject : tie rod ends
      Thanks for your reply think i have been sold wrong ones,will sort it
      and get tracking done thanks

      Paul Cullen
      swansea, wales, UK - Fri 24th July 2015 02:15pm (GMT)

      • Subject : tie rod ends
        How did it turn out with your tie rods..in the end??
        John
        nz - Mon 14th December 2015 10:21pm (GMT)

        • Subject : tie rod ends
          I haven't been on here for a while but thanks all sorted now.was
          sold the wrong ones.

          paul
          swansea, West Glamorgan, UK - Fri 15th January 2016 05:56pm (GMT)

          • Subject : tie rod ends
            By a stroke of fate, this also happened to me only a week ago.

            Dyslexic parts salesman... all good now...

            John
            NZ - Thu 24th March 2016 03:47am (GMT)

 
Subject : tie rod ends
Hi haven done alot of work on my terrano 11 1999, thought i,d change
upper front ball joint and tie rods has rubber boots were
gone,haveing purchase the parts ,ball joint easy,tie rods hard to
remove rusted on,any way got them off ,now my new tie rods are realy
tight to fit on were the castle nuts go on,are they supposed to be
this tight,can any one help,i cant get them on thanks

Paul Cullen
swansea , glmorgan, UK - Tue 21st July 2015 10:07am (GMT)
  • Subject : tie rod ends
    As above..check that the parts you have been sold are identical in all
    measurements to those you took off the vehicle.
    As an example, the
    1991 Japanese WD21 Terrano can be fitted with one of three different
    drag links in the steering...and the changeover was around
    July/August/September of that year.
    Guess who has kept the
    original drag link to take into the parts sellers????

    John
    NZ - Wed 22nd July 2015 11:20am (GMT)

 
Subject : nissan Terrano combination lamp
I am looking to get the wiring cable for my Nissan terrano 1998 2.7
tdi se left side combination lamp

sam
Wolverhampton, UK - Fri 17th July 2015 09:34am (GMT)
 
Subject : free wheel hub
I have a Nissan d22 year 2002, I fact I have a problem with my manual
free wheeling hub gear. which is worn out and am unable to find same.
anybody can help please.thanks

amit
port louis, mauritius - Wed 01st July 2015 11:47am (GMT)
  • Subject : free wheel hub
    If it is worn out, you will have to replace it. Go to a Nissan dealer
    and ask for a quote. If you happen to get the part number look on the
    web for overseas sites offering the same thing, perhaps for less
    money??? or go to a wrecker and see if you can buy a spare hub, or
    replace both manual hubs with aftermarket ones....

    John
    NZ - Thu 02nd July 2015 06:00am (GMT)

    • Subject : free wheel hub
      http://www.nissan-navara.net/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=25567

      http:
      //www.nissan-navara.net/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=24611&start=20

      ht
      tp://www.milneroffroad.com/nissan/navara-pickup/d22td-2-5td-td25-1998-
      112001-0/d22td-axle-frontrear-0/d22td-manual-free-wheeling-hub-0

      John
      NZ - Sun 05th July 2015 07:05pm (GMT)

      • Subject : free wheel hub
        http://www.milneroffroad.com/nissan/navara-pickup/d22yd-2-5td-yd25ddti
        -112001-on-inc-np300/d22yd-axle-frontrear/d22yd-manual-free-wheeling-h
        ub

        for 2002 etc. go onto Milner website and check out what
        is available, contact company.....

        John
        NZ - Sun 05th July 2015 07:10pm (GMT)

 
Subject : rear halfshaft oil seal
My rear half shaft oil seal is leaking does anybody know how to
replace the oil seal and how hard is it to replace

wayne ellis
hemsworth, west yorkshire, UK - Sat 13th June 2015 11:54am (GMT)
  • Subject : rear halfshaft oil seal
    What make, model, year, motive power, exact point of leak etc can you
    provide so we can give an answer?

    John
    NZ - Sun 14th June 2015 03:43am (GMT)

  • Subject : rear halfshaft oil seal
    http://forum.difflock.com/viewtopic.php?t=74916&sid=17e19dd81071eb8cc9
    ae3fd7b220779e

    http://forums.nicoclub.com/rear-axle-seal-help
    -t257434.html

    http://terranoirk.ru/forums/manual/R20/ra.pdf <
    br>
    Google is your friend.....

    John
    - NZ - Tue 16th June 2015 06:57am (GMT)

  • Subject : rear halfshaft oil seal
    Its 1998 and its leaking in to the rear brake drums on the passenger
    side only

    wayne ellis
    hemsworth, westyorkshire, UK - Tue 16th June 2015 07:52am (GMT)

    • Subject : rear halfshaft oil seal
      Sorry its a Nissan terrano 2.7td on a 1998 plate
      wayne ellis
      hemsworth, westyorkshire, UK - Tue 16th June 2015 07:55am (GMT)

      • Subject : rear halfshaft oil seal
        Jack up and take off wheel.
        Disconnect parking brake and brake
        tube.
        Look in behind the backing plate, locate the four nuts which
        hold the baffle plate to the axle housing and remove these
        nuts.
        Construct a puller that attaches to two of the wheel studs
        and attached to that a slide hammer (dent puller)to draw out the axle.

        The reason the axle is hard to withdraw is that where it fits
        into the diff carrier it is splined and pushed in..a friction fit.

        Once the axle is out, there is an oil seal left in the hole,
        remove it and replace with new.
        Coat seal and axle splines with
        diff oil and Carefully push the axle back into place without ripping
        your nice new oil seal and line up the holes in the axle housing with
        the studs.
        You may have to knock the axle back into place with
        dead blow hammer after all the splines are lined up with the carrier
        in the diff, and then tighten the nuts you removed when the studs go
        through the holes in the axle housing.
        Reattach the parking brake
        and tube.
        These instructions are taken directly from the pdf of
        the workshop manual which I referred to..but it appears to have been
        taken down unfortunately.

        John
        NZ - Wed 17th June 2015 05:20am (GMT)

        • Subject : rear halfshaft oil seal
          Thanks john will take a look at the weekend when I have more time to
          do it

          wayne ellis
          hemsworth, westyorkshire, UK - Wed 17th June 2015 08:26am (GMT)

 
Subject : Power window switch wiring
I have a 1995 Terrano II SLX 2.7TD. I removed the cenre conso;e to
adjust the hand brake and all the wires became disconnected from the
power window switch. My manual does not have the wiring diagram for
the colours of the wires in the car. The wire colours I have are black
with 2 spade connectors; White/Red with 2 spade connectors; Red/Blue;
Red/Green; Red/White; and Black. The switch from the console has
Nissan part number is 08540-01242. Stamped on the side is 2295. Can
anyone help with the PIN number to wire colour?

Adrian
Gandesa, Tarragona, ES - Tue 02nd June 2015 03:19pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Power window switch wiring
    Cant help you with your wires but pretty sure you dont adjust the
    handbrake under there >

    steve
    nz - Wed 10th June 2015 11:06am (GMT)

 
Subject :
Hi there,

Just got a Terrano 1990 - 2.7 Turbo diesel a month
ago. Never had a 4wd before and I am not so sure if the brakes are
working as they should for a truck.

So basically when I hit
the brakes on a flat road they work fine, lock the wheels if I want
and hold the car strongly.

The problem happens when downhill.
If I am going down for more than 500 metres and I am pushing the
brakes constantly they start loosing efficiency and sometimes the
brake light in the dashboard flashes. I can still brake, but I have to
push harder and the pedal does not go all the way down anymore. As an
example in that situation I can't lock the wheels cause the brakes are
not efficient enough.

Is that how it suppose to behave on a
truck? Loose efficiency when used non-stop for a period of time?

Gui
wellington, wellignton, UK - Mon 01st June 2015 11:24pm (GMT)
  • Subject :
    Your truck weighs about 1800kg and requires a lot of braking effort to
    stop.
    You probably have disc brakes on all 4 wheels? If not you
    will have discs at the front, and drums at the rear.
    All types of
    brakes will lose efficiency when activated for a long period of time.
    Google brake pad boiling gases etc.
    As the pads become hotter, the
    surface of the pads where it touches and rubs the disc actually boils
    away as a gas. Gas produces little friction..braking effect goes
    away......

    When going downhill, select a lower gear,
    especially in an automatic gearbox vehicle..say click off the
    overdrive, which then leaves you in 3rd gear,then when the hill gets
    steeper, select 2nd gear, when it gets really steep use the brakes to
    drop your speed down to 10mph or less and select 1st..this will hold
    the vehicle to a low speed even on a very steep hill.
    Yes, the
    engine might rev to almost 4000rpm, so what? It won't blow apart, it
    uses hardly any diesel fuel, and it will rapidly cool the radiator and
    engine down.
    If you really can't stand the noise brake hard to a
    comfortable speed or below, release the brakes so they can cool, and
    let the engine slowly rev up again.Repeat ad nauseum.

    Go back
    up through the gears as the incline decreases.

    Use the gears
    when decelerating downhill, and keep the brakes in
    reserve.

    Yes, Google "brake fade" and learn what happens with
    continuous riding of the brakes....

    Ultimately you can lose
    all brakes when the brake fluid gets so hot that it boils the water
    which invariably is sucked into the fluid because common brake fluids
    attract water over time, and vehicle brake systems have vent holes in
    the reservoir caps which allows water laden air in; this forms
    droplets which fall to the lowest point in the brake circuits...the
    wheel calipers.
    The steam produced inside the caliper is
    compressible, and your foot goes to the floor...no brakes.
    After
    you have crashed, the fluid cools, the steam becomes water and
    voila...the brakes will work perfectly again for the crash
    investigator.

    So, every 2 years drain the brake fluid out of
    the reservoir by sucking it out, refill with new fluid, get a friend
    to help gently and partially pump the brake pedal,(put some wood under
    the pedal between it and the floor to restrict the movement to the
    area in the master cylinder that normal braking uses) and crack each
    bleeder at each caliper, starting at the furthest away from the
    reservoir, and pump new fluid through all the brake system to ensure
    that the fluid has the least possible accumulation of water.Keep the
    reservoir topped up all the time so no air bubbles get in the
    system.

    Google hygroscopic brake fluid, and flushing brake
    lines, and the various types of brake pads that work well either when
    cold, slightly heated, or for out and out racing situations..which
    only work when hot...and which are definitely not recommended for
    streeet use........

    John
    NZ - Fri 05th June 2015 10:51am (GMT)

    • Subject :
      Would this model have a brake booster on the back of the alternator
      that could be faulty ? Sounds more like what you have said above john

      Steve
      nz - Fri 05th June 2015 01:29pm (GMT)

      • Subject :
        Yes, Steve, the vacuum pump is on the rear of the alternator on this
        model.Master cyliner, reservoir and booster on the firewall in front
        of the driver. I was just going on the symptoms..OK braking
        (sufficient to skid wheels) on level ground...bugger all after riding
        the brakes for 500 metres downhill. I hope he doesn't die before he
        sorts his brake technique out....

        John
        NZ - Sat 06th June 2015 12:14am (GMT)

        • Subject :
          Yes brakes are quite important . He said the brake light was coming on
          when pumping the brakes . This would normally mean low brake fluid .
          In our old mistral if you pumped the brakes really hard at an idol the
          brake light would come on and an alarm would sound when it lost all
          the brake boost pressure . Once you stopped pumping the brakes the
          pressure built up again really quickly and light and buzzer would go
          off . Never did it under normal driving conditions .

          steve
          nz - Sat 06th June 2015 01:15am (GMT)

          • Subject :
            So the Mistral lost vacuum quicker than it could be built up at idle
            and with high pressure on the brake pedal...which would make
            sense...and could also be part of the problem with him riding the
            brakes going downhill...he would run out of vacuum assist, because the
            engine would only be idling, and therefore the pedal would only go
            down a little, and would need 60% more effort to depress, which would
            feel like his brakes had gone away.
            Bingo!
            Another damn good
            reason to select a lower gear..that speeds up the engine and produces
            more vacuum, perhaps overcoming some of his crap braking
            technique...at least until his pads fade or his brake fluid
            boils.
            Nice one Steve....

            John
            NZ - Sat 06th June 2015 05:37am (GMT)

 
Subject : airflow
previous post I forgot to say vehicle is a terrano sport late 2003
albert
villemain, france - Mon 25th May 2015 03:04pm (GMT)
  • Subject : airflow
    Has your vehicle thrown an error code? If not is there anything which
    leads you to believe that there was originally a resistor there from
    factory?
    My advice would be, if it all works well, leave it
    alone....

    John
    NZ - Tue 26th May 2015 11:02am (GMT)

 
Subject : air flow meter
Hi can anybody tell me about the air flow meter I have removed mine to
clean it and noticed that the small resister is missing can this be
purchased separately or can any one tell what the capacity of the
resister.

albert
villemain, france - Mon 25th May 2015 03:00pm (GMT)
 
Subject : Terrano front end bounce
Hi. I have recently purchased a Terrano which is on an 03 plate. I
have noticed that the front end is very soft and bouncy on the
suspension and I am wondering if it is the shockers or can anyone
advise me if there are any bushes which may need replacing as I have
noticed it is on torsion bars and not springs (sorry for any mis
spellings).

Martin ~Stowell
Bradford, West Yorkshire, UK - Tue 19th May 2015 07:08pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Terrano front end bounce
    I am on my 3rd set of front shocks on my Japanese WD21 Terrano which
    is now 24 years old with 212,000 kilometres.
    The original shocks
    got to be just like yours, more bounce to the ounce and more slam to
    the gram at 100,000km, (62,000 miles) and I replaced them with Munroe
    4x4 Adventurer shocks.These lasted another 100,000km.
    My advice
    is to replace your shocks and their bushes (which should come with
    them) as soon as possible and then check the ride quality.
    Do the
    rear shocks as well, especially if the vehicle tends to skip the rear
    end sideways on gravel corrugations..a sure sign of worn out
    shocks.
    If you get creaks, groans, slams or bangs sounding like a
    large piece of metal is loose when going round corners, replace all
    the front sway bar (anti roll bar) bushes including link bushes with
    polyurethane ones.
    If you feel or can see that the front
    suspension has sagged with age, (less clearance between tyre and
    fender) follow the torsion bars back until you can see the adjusters.
    Raise the front end of the vehicle off the ground, loosen the lock
    nut, give the adjusters 3 full turns each side and lower the vehicle
    back down and go for a ride to allow it to settle back down. This
    tweaking can only be done up until a certain point, and then you risk
    snapping the bar because it becomes restricted in it's travel. Regard
    the torsion bars as wound up springs......
    See also "Pathfinder
    death wobble" in regards to the bushes in the rear suspension links
    which locate the rear axle to the body.
    As far as i am concerned,
    having done all the above, this falls under normal maintenance and
    makes the vehicle behave in an "as new" way.

    John
    NZ - Fri 22nd May 2015 11:39am (GMT)

 
Subject : 95 td27 r20 mistral
hi i have a 95 nissan mistral td27 turbo i have an issue were all of a
sudden after replacing starter motor alternator and battery.what
happens is when you drive off normal its rattly and boggs until boost
comes on then it apears to dump alot of black smoke and then its fine
til you come to a stop and it all starts again it seems to be fine
when cold ?any ideas please would be good im no mechanic but have a
fair idea of what im doing

dave
christchurch, canterbury, nz - Sun 12th April 2015 08:06am (GMT)
  • Subject : 95 td27 r20 mistral
    What caused the suddden replacement of most of the electrical system?
    John
    Christchurch NZ - Mon 13th April 2015 06:23am (GMT)

    • Subject : 95 td27 r20 mistral
      long story short batery wouldnt turn over starter properly so got new
      alternator and batery and then starter motor stopped so i guess usual
      wear n tear .

      dave
      UK - Mon 13th April 2015 07:02am (GMT)

      • Subject : 95 td27 r20 mistral
        Dave, go to a technician with an OBD2 scanner and read the trouble
        codes on the computer. Then you will know where to start.

        John
        NZ - Tue 14th April 2015 08:28am (GMT)

        • Subject : 95 td27 r20 mistral
          thanks john. it is my understanding that the td27b turbo motor has no
          ecu i could be wrong.is there any other solutions i could try thanks

          dave
          Christchurch - Wed 15th April 2015 03:00am (GMT)

          • Subject : 95 td27 r20 mistral
            These guys seem to think they can sell you one if you need
            it.

            https://partsworld.co.nz/parts/nissan/mistral/6325_r20+94
            -97/88_computerse.c.u/29656

            Unless your engine has been
            replaced with a straight mechanical one out of an earlier vehicle you
            should find one in there.

            John
            NZ - Thu 16th April 2015 07:11am (GMT)

            • Subject : 95 td27 r20 mistral
              thanks again john. have just double cheked it all appears to be what
              you stated the only thing is it looks as though it has had an engine
              swap .?????? were to from here im doing a change of glow plugs today
              and then il start the process of eliminiation.thanks dave as much
              advice as possible would be great.

              dave
              Christchurch, New Zealand - Fri 17th April 2015 12:37am (GMT)

              • Subject : 95 td27 r20 mistral
                By all means check glow plugs and replace if necessary, but if these
                symptoms reoccur no matter what temperature the engine is at, then
                there seems to be a problem relating to the amount of fuel or air
                being fed to the engine.
                Check air filter and replace if
                necessary.
                Trace and check all air inlet piping looking for
                possible collapse points, tears etc.
                Replace fuel filter, (fill
                new one with clean new fuel before tightening it into housing) trace
                fuel line round to injector pump, remove banjo bolt inlet to pump,
                carefully pull out small gauze filter that should be there and clean
                same, use primer to squirt fuel through, check flow for fine bubbles
                (sometimes diaphragm on filter primer tears and induces air into
                system), then put it all back together again.Pump that primer until it
                goes solid while checking for leaks, start and rev engine in park to
                2500rpm and hold it there for a minute so that any trace of air will
                be gone, then drive and see if that helps.

                John
                NZ - Fri 17th April 2015 07:10pm (GMT)

 
Subject :


- UK - Fri 03rd April 2015 10:38pm (GMT)
 
Subject : rear brake cylinders
Hi does any one no which are the write rear brake cylinders for my
nissan terrano 11 2.7 tdi estate ,5 door year 1999 thanks

Paul Cullen
swansea, wales, UK - Fri 20th March 2015 03:47pm (GMT)
 
Subject : rear brake cylinders
Hi does any one no which are the write rear brake cylinders for my
nissan terrano 11 2.7 tdi estate ,5 door year 1999 thanks

Paul Cullen
swansea, wales, UK - Fri 20th March 2015 03:27pm (GMT)
 
Subject :
where is the auotmatic gearbox ecu on a 1996 D21 terrano/navara
duncan
- NZ - Thu 12th March 2015 04:36am (GMT)
 
Subject : mistral 97 warning light for battery a/t oil temp and another one
Hey I was driving my mistral the other day and 3 warning lights all
come on at once for battery a/t oil temp and another I think cooling
and was wondering if anyone had any ideas to what this could be

matt
Auckland, new Zealand - Sun 01st March 2015 02:56am (GMT)
 
Subject : 99 Pathfinder
a 99 nissan pathfinder stalls sometimes when driving in 2wd but always
works perfectly in 4wd. What could be the issues im facing

Marky D
Roachville, NB, Canada - Tue 03rd February 2015 04:57pm (GMT)
  • Subject : 99 Pathfinder
    More info needed. What engine? What transmission? What happens/what
    conditions are you running in when the stall happens? Accelerating, or
    braking? Hot or cold? Wet or dry? Turning/driving straight? Fuel level
    in tank? uphill/downhill? Overrun?

    John
    NZ - Sat 07th February 2015 11:30am (GMT)

 
Subject : qd 32
John , Been a while as have had computer issues . We were away over
xmas and on the way home found that if you went to pass a car or clime
a hill the auto would chop down to 3rd as it should , then the engine
would pull strong untill exactly 3500rpm then it was like the
governers were switched on and would not rev past that point . Lots of
black smoke as well . Take your foot off the gas for a bit and slow
down and then give her the jandal again and yet again pulls well to
that same rpm mark .When driving normally it is fine . It dose this
when overdrive is on or off. Fuel filters air filters all good .
Sounds more like engine management do you think ??

Steve

Steve
ashburton, nz - Sat 31st January 2015 09:47am (GMT)
  • Subject : qd 32
    Sorry thought my post had not been put up then found your reply
    steve
    nz - Sat 31st January 2015 09:49am (GMT)

 
Subject : Nissan Patrol ZD 30
Can somebody perhaps help with questions I have on the ZD 30
motor.
I have a 2001 Patrol 3.0 with the ZD 30 motor. The motor
has blown and I have been offered a ZD 30 from a Neo/Terrano. Are they
compatable and will it just bolt on. Any help will be highly
appreciated
Dave

Dave Faddel
George, South Africa - Fri 30th January 2015 11:02am (GMT)
  • Subject : Nissan Patrol ZD 30
    Theoretically they should be compatible..but you will have to
    physically compare them to be sure. Are they the same year? Have you
    got any friends at a Nissan workshop that you can ask???

    John
    NZ - Sat 31st January 2015 04:37am (GMT)

    • Subject : Nissan Patrol ZD 30
      Thanks for the reply. I see the top plastic cover states that the
      "new" motor was salvaged from a Neo, I believe around a 2006 model.On
      the specs web pages I see it is slightly down on power but a full 50Nm
      down on torque. My concern however is type of diesel pump and basic
      control system. The Patrol's is said to be not too good hence the
      nickname of "Hand Grenade" This is mostly blamed on the turbo control
      system and pressure sensors. This is of concern to me as I don't know
      if the electronics are compatible, is it bolt in or do I now have to
      sit with engine management problems.

      Dave Faddel
      George, South Africa, South Africa - Sat 31st January 2015 06:20pm (GMT)

      • Subject : Nissan Patrol ZD 30
        That is why I strongly suggest inquiries with a NISSAN
        MECHANIC/WORKSHOP...the chance of stumbling across someone on the www
        who has done this swap out/in and has posted the answers is very slim.

        John
        NZ - Sat 07th February 2015 11:34am (GMT)

 
Subject :
John Been a while as computer was down and have finally got sorted .
Away at xmas and on the way home found that our terrano when you chop
down out of overdrive into 3rd and give her the jandal the motor will
pull well untill 3500 rpm then it like the governers cut in and wont
pull any more revs or accelerate at all . Lots of black smoke when
this happens . Now I dont drive at hogh revs all the time so this is
not a problem 99 % of the time . No issues at lower rev range under
3500rpm
Possibly engine sensor ? No engine check light on so would
a code show up on a scanner ?

Cheers
Steve









Steve
ashburton, nz - Fri 30th January 2015 10:39am (GMT)
  • Subject :
    Steve, last time that happened to me the fix was to replace the fuel
    filter. It was full of black crud probably algae...but it was the
    original Japanese filter and was 90k and 9 years old! How long was
    your Terrano off the road sittuing idle..in a shed or out in the
    open?? and was the fuel tank full or only partially full? (think
    expansion /contraction and water condensation in tank) Can't say we
    have had all that much rain lately so probably not rain water in the
    fuel???
    Can you think of any other reason not enough fuel is
    getting to the injectors at times of high demand? e.g air leak,
    diaphragm holed on fuel filter pump etc etc?

    John
    NZ - Sat 31st January 2015 04:35am (GMT)

    • Subject :
      Did the fuel filter last november just part of a service . Is shed
      stored and gets a run probably every couple of weeks . Fuel is from
      work and is filtered with very good filters as all our tractors and
      combine are common rail . Its more like an engine sensor telling the
      engine not to rev above 3500rpm .Only thing I have not done in ages is
      clean the MAF sensor . If it was starving for fuel would there be lots
      of black smoke ??

      Steve
      ashburton, nz - Sat 31st January 2015 09:59am (GMT)

      • Subject :
        My one did smoke something chronic with the clogged filter. I think
        your idea of cleaning the MAF would be a good start if it has not been
        done in a while.

        John
        NZ - Mon 02nd February 2015 12:01am (GMT)

        • Subject :
          Problem seems to have gone away by itself . Strange really .

          Steve
          ashburton, nz - Wed 15th April 2015 06:42am (GMT)

          • Subject :
            John . Finally worked out what was happening . The flexi pipe between
            the air cleaner and the turbo I found last week had split and torn
            right beside the turbo hose clamp . We think that when it split is
            when it when it stopped dying at 3500rpm . Before that we think the
            pipe was collapsing as it was really soft and restricting the air flow
            . I only replaced this pipe about 2 years ago . $180 for new one from
            d and e nissan or $ 70 including post from ausy . Probably should of
            gone genuine but big difference in price .

            Steve
            nz - Sat 09th May 2015 07:55am (GMT)

            • Subject :
              Any thoughts on putting a spiral steel spring inside the rubber
              flexible pipe to stop collapse in the future? I remember the last time
              you had this pipe split..was it in the same place again? Obviously a
              bad fault with them...and I agree with your paying $70 from Australia
              rather than $180 from the Nissan dealer, especially if this may well
              happen again in two years' time!
              Hopefully the 'dusting" didn't
              affect the engine..do you have a MAF? It may need cleaning again???

              John
              NZ - Fri 22nd May 2015 01:35pm (GMT)

              • Subject :
                Hi john . Yes we cleaned the MAF when we were trying to sort out the
                first problem when it would not rev out, and the pipe split right
                beside the turbo intake so any dirty air was not going past the MAF .

                The new rubber flex pipe is quite a bit firmer than the old one
                and the old one had split in a different place . I know someone round
                here who had the same pipe on a navara with the zd30 motor and didnt
                notice until the motor let go . Several grand later....
                Pretty
                sure we only did a couple of trips to town with no gravel work before
                we noticed the split. I would imagine there are lots of nissans out
                there with this pipe split and not really visible unless you actually
                inspect the pipe physically with your hand . So nissan owners keep an
                eye on this !!!
                Cheers Steve

                steve
                nz - Sun 24th May 2015 09:39am (GMT)

 
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