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Subject : free wheel hub
I have a Nissan d22 year 2002, I fact I have a problem with my manual
free wheeling hub gear. which is worn out and am unable to find same.
anybody can help please.thanks

amit
port louis, mauritius - Wed 01st July 2015 11:47am (GMT)
 
Subject : rear halfshaft oil seal
My rear half shaft oil seal is leaking does anybody know how to
replace the oil seal and how hard is it to replace

wayne ellis
hemsworth, west yorkshire, UK - Sat 13th June 2015 11:54am (GMT)
  • Subject : rear halfshaft oil seal
    What make, model, year, motive power, exact point of leak etc can you
    provide so we can give an answer?

    John
    NZ - Sun 14th June 2015 03:43am (GMT)

  • Subject : rear halfshaft oil seal
    http://forum.difflock.com/viewtopic.php?t=74916&sid=17e19dd81071eb8cc9
    ae3fd7b220779e

    http://forums.nicoclub.com/rear-axle-seal-help
    -t257434.html

    http://terranoirk.ru/forums/manual/R20/ra.pdf <
    br>
    Google is your friend.....

    John
    - NZ - Tue 16th June 2015 06:57am (GMT)

  • Subject : rear halfshaft oil seal
    Its 1998 and its leaking in to the rear brake drums on the passenger
    side only

    wayne ellis
    hemsworth, westyorkshire, UK - Tue 16th June 2015 07:52am (GMT)

    • Subject : rear halfshaft oil seal
      Sorry its a Nissan terrano 2.7td on a 1998 plate
      wayne ellis
      hemsworth, westyorkshire, UK - Tue 16th June 2015 07:55am (GMT)

      • Subject : rear halfshaft oil seal
        Jack up and take off wheel.
        Disconnect parking brake and brake
        tube.
        Look in behind the backing plate, locate the four nuts which
        hold the baffle plate to the axle housing and remove these
        nuts.
        Construct a puller that attaches to two of the wheel studs
        and attached to that a slide hammer (dent puller)to draw out the axle.

        The reason the axle is hard to withdraw is that where it fits
        into the diff carrier it is splined and pushed in..a friction fit.

        Once the axle is out, there is an oil seal left in the hole,
        remove it and replace with new.
        Coat seal and axle splines with
        diff oil and Carefully push the axle back into place without ripping
        your nice new oil seal and line up the holes in the axle housing with
        the studs.
        You may have to knock the axle back into place with
        dead blow hammer after all the splines are lined up with the carrier
        in the diff, and then tighten the nuts you removed when the studs go
        through the holes in the axle housing.
        Reattach the parking brake
        and tube.
        These instructions are taken directly from the pdf of
        the workshop manual which I referred to..but it appears to have been
        taken down unfortunately.

        John
        NZ - Wed 17th June 2015 05:20am (GMT)

        • Subject : rear halfshaft oil seal
          Thanks john will take a look at the weekend when I have more time to
          do it

          wayne ellis
          hemsworth, westyorkshire, UK - Wed 17th June 2015 08:26am (GMT)

 
Subject : Power window switch wiring
I have a 1995 Terrano II SLX 2.7TD. I removed the cenre conso;e to
adjust the hand brake and all the wires became disconnected from the
power window switch. My manual does not have the wiring diagram for
the colours of the wires in the car. The wire colours I have are black
with 2 spade connectors; White/Red with 2 spade connectors; Red/Blue;
Red/Green; Red/White; and Black. The switch from the console has
Nissan part number is 08540-01242. Stamped on the side is 2295. Can
anyone help with the PIN number to wire colour?

Adrian
Gandesa, Tarragona, ES - Tue 02nd June 2015 03:19pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Power window switch wiring
    Cant help you with your wires but pretty sure you dont adjust the
    handbrake under there >

    steve
    nz - Wed 10th June 2015 11:06am (GMT)

 
Subject :
Hi there,

Just got a Terrano 1990 - 2.7 Turbo diesel a month
ago. Never had a 4wd before and I am not so sure if the brakes are
working as they should for a truck.

So basically when I hit
the brakes on a flat road they work fine, lock the wheels if I want
and hold the car strongly.

The problem happens when downhill.
If I am going down for more than 500 metres and I am pushing the
brakes constantly they start loosing efficiency and sometimes the
brake light in the dashboard flashes. I can still brake, but I have to
push harder and the pedal does not go all the way down anymore. As an
example in that situation I can't lock the wheels cause the brakes are
not efficient enough.

Is that how it suppose to behave on a
truck? Loose efficiency when used non-stop for a period of time?

Gui
wellington, wellignton, UK - Mon 01st June 2015 11:24pm (GMT)
  • Subject :
    Your truck weighs about 1800kg and requires a lot of braking effort to
    stop.
    You probably have disc brakes on all 4 wheels? If not you
    will have discs at the front, and drums at the rear.
    All types of
    brakes will lose efficiency when activated for a long period of time.
    Google brake pad boiling gases etc.
    As the pads become hotter, the
    surface of the pads where it touches and rubs the disc actually boils
    away as a gas. Gas produces little friction..braking effect goes
    away......

    When going downhill, select a lower gear,
    especially in an automatic gearbox vehicle..say click off the
    overdrive, which then leaves you in 3rd gear,then when the hill gets
    steeper, select 2nd gear, when it gets really steep use the brakes to
    drop your speed down to 10mph or less and select 1st..this will hold
    the vehicle to a low speed even on a very steep hill.
    Yes, the
    engine might rev to almost 4000rpm, so what? It won't blow apart, it
    uses hardly any diesel fuel, and it will rapidly cool the radiator and
    engine down.
    If you really can't stand the noise brake hard to a
    comfortable speed or below, release the brakes so they can cool, and
    let the engine slowly rev up again.Repeat ad nauseum.

    Go back
    up through the gears as the incline decreases.

    Use the gears
    when decelerating downhill, and keep the brakes in
    reserve.

    Yes, Google "brake fade" and learn what happens with
    continuous riding of the brakes....

    Ultimately you can lose
    all brakes when the brake fluid gets so hot that it boils the water
    which invariably is sucked into the fluid because common brake fluids
    attract water over time, and vehicle brake systems have vent holes in
    the reservoir caps which allows water laden air in; this forms
    droplets which fall to the lowest point in the brake circuits...the
    wheel calipers.
    The steam produced inside the caliper is
    compressible, and your foot goes to the floor...no brakes.
    After
    you have crashed, the fluid cools, the steam becomes water and
    voila...the brakes will work perfectly again for the crash
    investigator.

    So, every 2 years drain the brake fluid out of
    the reservoir by sucking it out, refill with new fluid, get a friend
    to help gently and partially pump the brake pedal,(put some wood under
    the pedal between it and the floor to restrict the movement to the
    area in the master cylinder that normal braking uses) and crack each
    bleeder at each caliper, starting at the furthest away from the
    reservoir, and pump new fluid through all the brake system to ensure
    that the fluid has the least possible accumulation of water.Keep the
    reservoir topped up all the time so no air bubbles get in the
    system.

    Google hygroscopic brake fluid, and flushing brake
    lines, and the various types of brake pads that work well either when
    cold, slightly heated, or for out and out racing situations..which
    only work when hot...and which are definitely not recommended for
    streeet use........

    John
    NZ - Fri 05th June 2015 10:51am (GMT)

    • Subject :
      Would this model have a brake booster on the back of the alternator
      that could be faulty ? Sounds more like what you have said above john

      Steve
      nz - Fri 05th June 2015 01:29pm (GMT)

      • Subject :
        Yes, Steve, the vacuum pump is on the rear of the alternator on this
        model.Master cyliner, reservoir and booster on the firewall in front
        of the driver. I was just going on the symptoms..OK braking
        (sufficient to skid wheels) on level ground...bugger all after riding
        the brakes for 500 metres downhill. I hope he doesn't die before he
        sorts his brake technique out....

        John
        NZ - Sat 06th June 2015 12:14am (GMT)

        • Subject :
          Yes brakes are quite important . He said the brake light was coming on
          when pumping the brakes . This would normally mean low brake fluid .
          In our old mistral if you pumped the brakes really hard at an idol the
          brake light would come on and an alarm would sound when it lost all
          the brake boost pressure . Once you stopped pumping the brakes the
          pressure built up again really quickly and light and buzzer would go
          off . Never did it under normal driving conditions .

          steve
          nz - Sat 06th June 2015 01:15am (GMT)

          • Subject :
            So the Mistral lost vacuum quicker than it could be built up at idle
            and with high pressure on the brake pedal...which would make
            sense...and could also be part of the problem with him riding the
            brakes going downhill...he would run out of vacuum assist, because the
            engine would only be idling, and therefore the pedal would only go
            down a little, and would need 60% more effort to depress, which would
            feel like his brakes had gone away.
            Bingo!
            Another damn good
            reason to select a lower gear..that speeds up the engine and produces
            more vacuum, perhaps overcoming some of his crap braking
            technique...at least until his pads fade or his brake fluid
            boils.
            Nice one Steve....

            John
            NZ - Sat 06th June 2015 05:37am (GMT)

 
Subject : airflow
previous post I forgot to say vehicle is a terrano sport late 2003
albert
villemain, france - Mon 25th May 2015 03:04pm (GMT)
  • Subject : airflow
    Has your vehicle thrown an error code? If not is there anything which
    leads you to believe that there was originally a resistor there from
    factory?
    My advice would be, if it all works well, leave it
    alone....

    John
    NZ - Tue 26th May 2015 11:02am (GMT)

 
Subject : air flow meter
Hi can anybody tell me about the air flow meter I have removed mine to
clean it and noticed that the small resister is missing can this be
purchased separately or can any one tell what the capacity of the
resister.

albert
villemain, france - Mon 25th May 2015 03:00pm (GMT)
 
Subject : Terrano front end bounce
Hi. I have recently purchased a Terrano which is on an 03 plate. I
have noticed that the front end is very soft and bouncy on the
suspension and I am wondering if it is the shockers or can anyone
advise me if there are any bushes which may need replacing as I have
noticed it is on torsion bars and not springs (sorry for any mis
spellings).

Martin ~Stowell
Bradford, West Yorkshire, UK - Tue 19th May 2015 07:08pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Terrano front end bounce
    I am on my 3rd set of front shocks on my Japanese WD21 Terrano which
    is now 24 years old with 212,000 kilometres.
    The original shocks
    got to be just like yours, more bounce to the ounce and more slam to
    the gram at 100,000km, (62,000 miles) and I replaced them with Munroe
    4x4 Adventurer shocks.These lasted another 100,000km.
    My advice
    is to replace your shocks and their bushes (which should come with
    them) as soon as possible and then check the ride quality.
    Do the
    rear shocks as well, especially if the vehicle tends to skip the rear
    end sideways on gravel corrugations..a sure sign of worn out
    shocks.
    If you get creaks, groans, slams or bangs sounding like a
    large piece of metal is loose when going round corners, replace all
    the front sway bar (anti roll bar) bushes including link bushes with
    polyurethane ones.
    If you feel or can see that the front
    suspension has sagged with age, (less clearance between tyre and
    fender) follow the torsion bars back until you can see the adjusters.
    Raise the front end of the vehicle off the ground, loosen the lock
    nut, give the adjusters 3 full turns each side and lower the vehicle
    back down and go for a ride to allow it to settle back down. This
    tweaking can only be done up until a certain point, and then you risk
    snapping the bar because it becomes restricted in it's travel. Regard
    the torsion bars as wound up springs......
    See also "Pathfinder
    death wobble" in regards to the bushes in the rear suspension links
    which locate the rear axle to the body.
    As far as i am concerned,
    having done all the above, this falls under normal maintenance and
    makes the vehicle behave in an "as new" way.

    John
    NZ - Fri 22nd May 2015 11:39am (GMT)

 
Subject : 95 td27 r20 mistral
hi i have a 95 nissan mistral td27 turbo i have an issue were all of a
sudden after replacing starter motor alternator and battery.what
happens is when you drive off normal its rattly and boggs until boost
comes on then it apears to dump alot of black smoke and then its fine
til you come to a stop and it all starts again it seems to be fine
when cold ?any ideas please would be good im no mechanic but have a
fair idea of what im doing

dave
christchurch, canterbury, nz - Sun 12th April 2015 08:06am (GMT)
  • Subject : 95 td27 r20 mistral
    What caused the suddden replacement of most of the electrical system?
    John
    Christchurch NZ - Mon 13th April 2015 06:23am (GMT)

    • Subject : 95 td27 r20 mistral
      long story short batery wouldnt turn over starter properly so got new
      alternator and batery and then starter motor stopped so i guess usual
      wear n tear .

      dave
      UK - Mon 13th April 2015 07:02am (GMT)

      • Subject : 95 td27 r20 mistral
        Dave, go to a technician with an OBD2 scanner and read the trouble
        codes on the computer. Then you will know where to start.

        John
        NZ - Tue 14th April 2015 08:28am (GMT)

        • Subject : 95 td27 r20 mistral
          thanks john. it is my understanding that the td27b turbo motor has no
          ecu i could be wrong.is there any other solutions i could try thanks

          dave
          Christchurch - Wed 15th April 2015 03:00am (GMT)

          • Subject : 95 td27 r20 mistral
            These guys seem to think they can sell you one if you need
            it.

            https://partsworld.co.nz/parts/nissan/mistral/6325_r20+94
            -97/88_computerse.c.u/29656

            Unless your engine has been
            replaced with a straight mechanical one out of an earlier vehicle you
            should find one in there.

            John
            NZ - Thu 16th April 2015 07:11am (GMT)

            • Subject : 95 td27 r20 mistral
              thanks again john. have just double cheked it all appears to be what
              you stated the only thing is it looks as though it has had an engine
              swap .?????? were to from here im doing a change of glow plugs today
              and then il start the process of eliminiation.thanks dave as much
              advice as possible would be great.

              dave
              Christchurch, New Zealand - Fri 17th April 2015 12:37am (GMT)

              • Subject : 95 td27 r20 mistral
                By all means check glow plugs and replace if necessary, but if these
                symptoms reoccur no matter what temperature the engine is at, then
                there seems to be a problem relating to the amount of fuel or air
                being fed to the engine.
                Check air filter and replace if
                necessary.
                Trace and check all air inlet piping looking for
                possible collapse points, tears etc.
                Replace fuel filter, (fill
                new one with clean new fuel before tightening it into housing) trace
                fuel line round to injector pump, remove banjo bolt inlet to pump,
                carefully pull out small gauze filter that should be there and clean
                same, use primer to squirt fuel through, check flow for fine bubbles
                (sometimes diaphragm on filter primer tears and induces air into
                system), then put it all back together again.Pump that primer until it
                goes solid while checking for leaks, start and rev engine in park to
                2500rpm and hold it there for a minute so that any trace of air will
                be gone, then drive and see if that helps.

                John
                NZ - Fri 17th April 2015 07:10pm (GMT)

 
Subject :


- UK - Fri 03rd April 2015 10:38pm (GMT)
 
Subject : rear brake cylinders
Hi does any one no which are the write rear brake cylinders for my
nissan terrano 11 2.7 tdi estate ,5 door year 1999 thanks

Paul Cullen
swansea, wales, UK - Fri 20th March 2015 03:47pm (GMT)
 
Subject : rear brake cylinders
Hi does any one no which are the write rear brake cylinders for my
nissan terrano 11 2.7 tdi estate ,5 door year 1999 thanks

Paul Cullen
swansea, wales, UK - Fri 20th March 2015 03:27pm (GMT)
 
Subject :
where is the auotmatic gearbox ecu on a 1996 D21 terrano/navara
duncan
- NZ - Thu 12th March 2015 04:36am (GMT)
 
Subject : mistral 97 warning light for battery a/t oil temp and another one
Hey I was driving my mistral the other day and 3 warning lights all
come on at once for battery a/t oil temp and another I think cooling
and was wondering if anyone had any ideas to what this could be

matt
Auckland, new Zealand - Sun 01st March 2015 02:56am (GMT)
 
Subject : 99 Pathfinder
a 99 nissan pathfinder stalls sometimes when driving in 2wd but always
works perfectly in 4wd. What could be the issues im facing

Marky D
Roachville, NB, Canada - Tue 03rd February 2015 04:57pm (GMT)
  • Subject : 99 Pathfinder
    More info needed. What engine? What transmission? What happens/what
    conditions are you running in when the stall happens? Accelerating, or
    braking? Hot or cold? Wet or dry? Turning/driving straight? Fuel level
    in tank? uphill/downhill? Overrun?

    John
    NZ - Sat 07th February 2015 11:30am (GMT)

 
Subject : qd 32
John , Been a while as have had computer issues . We were away over
xmas and on the way home found that if you went to pass a car or clime
a hill the auto would chop down to 3rd as it should , then the engine
would pull strong untill exactly 3500rpm then it was like the
governers were switched on and would not rev past that point . Lots of
black smoke as well . Take your foot off the gas for a bit and slow
down and then give her the jandal again and yet again pulls well to
that same rpm mark .When driving normally it is fine . It dose this
when overdrive is on or off. Fuel filters air filters all good .
Sounds more like engine management do you think ??

Steve

Steve
ashburton, nz - Sat 31st January 2015 09:47am (GMT)
  • Subject : qd 32
    Sorry thought my post had not been put up then found your reply
    steve
    nz - Sat 31st January 2015 09:49am (GMT)

 
Subject : Nissan Patrol ZD 30
Can somebody perhaps help with questions I have on the ZD 30
motor.
I have a 2001 Patrol 3.0 with the ZD 30 motor. The motor
has blown and I have been offered a ZD 30 from a Neo/Terrano. Are they
compatable and will it just bolt on. Any help will be highly
appreciated
Dave

Dave Faddel
George, South Africa - Fri 30th January 2015 11:02am (GMT)
  • Subject : Nissan Patrol ZD 30
    Theoretically they should be compatible..but you will have to
    physically compare them to be sure. Are they the same year? Have you
    got any friends at a Nissan workshop that you can ask???

    John
    NZ - Sat 31st January 2015 04:37am (GMT)

    • Subject : Nissan Patrol ZD 30
      Thanks for the reply. I see the top plastic cover states that the
      "new" motor was salvaged from a Neo, I believe around a 2006 model.On
      the specs web pages I see it is slightly down on power but a full 50Nm
      down on torque. My concern however is type of diesel pump and basic
      control system. The Patrol's is said to be not too good hence the
      nickname of "Hand Grenade" This is mostly blamed on the turbo control
      system and pressure sensors. This is of concern to me as I don't know
      if the electronics are compatible, is it bolt in or do I now have to
      sit with engine management problems.

      Dave Faddel
      George, South Africa, South Africa - Sat 31st January 2015 06:20pm (GMT)

      • Subject : Nissan Patrol ZD 30
        That is why I strongly suggest inquiries with a NISSAN
        MECHANIC/WORKSHOP...the chance of stumbling across someone on the www
        who has done this swap out/in and has posted the answers is very slim.

        John
        NZ - Sat 07th February 2015 11:34am (GMT)

 
Subject :
John Been a while as computer was down and have finally got sorted .
Away at xmas and on the way home found that our terrano when you chop
down out of overdrive into 3rd and give her the jandal the motor will
pull well untill 3500 rpm then it like the governers cut in and wont
pull any more revs or accelerate at all . Lots of black smoke when
this happens . Now I dont drive at hogh revs all the time so this is
not a problem 99 % of the time . No issues at lower rev range under
3500rpm
Possibly engine sensor ? No engine check light on so would
a code show up on a scanner ?

Cheers
Steve









Steve
ashburton, nz - Fri 30th January 2015 10:39am (GMT)
  • Subject :
    Steve, last time that happened to me the fix was to replace the fuel
    filter. It was full of black crud probably algae...but it was the
    original Japanese filter and was 90k and 9 years old! How long was
    your Terrano off the road sittuing idle..in a shed or out in the
    open?? and was the fuel tank full or only partially full? (think
    expansion /contraction and water condensation in tank) Can't say we
    have had all that much rain lately so probably not rain water in the
    fuel???
    Can you think of any other reason not enough fuel is
    getting to the injectors at times of high demand? e.g air leak,
    diaphragm holed on fuel filter pump etc etc?

    John
    NZ - Sat 31st January 2015 04:35am (GMT)

    • Subject :
      Did the fuel filter last november just part of a service . Is shed
      stored and gets a run probably every couple of weeks . Fuel is from
      work and is filtered with very good filters as all our tractors and
      combine are common rail . Its more like an engine sensor telling the
      engine not to rev above 3500rpm .Only thing I have not done in ages is
      clean the MAF sensor . If it was starving for fuel would there be lots
      of black smoke ??

      Steve
      ashburton, nz - Sat 31st January 2015 09:59am (GMT)

      • Subject :
        My one did smoke something chronic with the clogged filter. I think
        your idea of cleaning the MAF would be a good start if it has not been
        done in a while.

        John
        NZ - Mon 02nd February 2015 12:01am (GMT)

        • Subject :
          Problem seems to have gone away by itself . Strange really .

          Steve
          ashburton, nz - Wed 15th April 2015 06:42am (GMT)

          • Subject :
            John . Finally worked out what was happening . The flexi pipe between
            the air cleaner and the turbo I found last week had split and torn
            right beside the turbo hose clamp . We think that when it split is
            when it when it stopped dying at 3500rpm . Before that we think the
            pipe was collapsing as it was really soft and restricting the air flow
            . I only replaced this pipe about 2 years ago . $180 for new one from
            d and e nissan or $ 70 including post from ausy . Probably should of
            gone genuine but big difference in price .

            Steve
            nz - Sat 09th May 2015 07:55am (GMT)

            • Subject :
              Any thoughts on putting a spiral steel spring inside the rubber
              flexible pipe to stop collapse in the future? I remember the last time
              you had this pipe split..was it in the same place again? Obviously a
              bad fault with them...and I agree with your paying $70 from Australia
              rather than $180 from the Nissan dealer, especially if this may well
              happen again in two years' time!
              Hopefully the 'dusting" didn't
              affect the engine..do you have a MAF? It may need cleaning again???

              John
              NZ - Fri 22nd May 2015 01:35pm (GMT)

              • Subject :
                Hi john . Yes we cleaned the MAF when we were trying to sort out the
                first problem when it would not rev out, and the pipe split right
                beside the turbo intake so any dirty air was not going past the MAF .

                The new rubber flex pipe is quite a bit firmer than the old one
                and the old one had split in a different place . I know someone round
                here who had the same pipe on a navara with the zd30 motor and didnt
                notice until the motor let go . Several grand later....
                Pretty
                sure we only did a couple of trips to town with no gravel work before
                we noticed the split. I would imagine there are lots of nissans out
                there with this pipe split and not really visible unless you actually
                inspect the pipe physically with your hand . So nissan owners keep an
                eye on this !!!
                Cheers Steve

                steve
                nz - Sun 24th May 2015 09:39am (GMT)

 
Subject : Nissan Terrano upgrade to 6 speed G/box
Can anyone tell me what 6 speed gearbox will fit my nissan Terrano 3.0
SVE??

Sandy
Thurso, Caithness, UK - Thu 08th January 2015 05:09pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Nissan Terrano upgrade to 6 speed G/box
    You can make anything fit by throwing enough money and time at it.
    What are you trying to do? It's not a sports car, so a sixth
    (overdrive) gear won't help it handle better at higher speeds. The low
    gear might also not be as low as the gear you now have, so that won't
    help off road...what are you trying to do???

    John
    NZ - Sun 18th January 2015 09:12am (GMT)

    • Subject : Nissan Terrano upgrade to 6 speed G/box
      I am simply trying to make it more fuel economic. I did try and locate
      an overdrive unit for it without success, so the question of the 6
      speed box came into my mind. Can you help??
      Sandy

      Sandy Bennie
      Thurso, , Caithness, UK - Sun 18th January 2015 04:32pm (GMT)

      • Subject : Nissan Terrano upgrade to 6 speed G/box
        See my first answer. The Terrano is a four wheel drive which weighs
        more than the average vehicle. It takes energy to move mass..the
        heavier vehicle can never be as economical as a lighter one unless you
        change various factors...you already have a diesel engine, it is
        turbocharged..that's two factors.
        If you build in some other
        gearbox you will alter the overall gearing and may get better fuel
        economy on a long trip at steady speeds. But do you use the vehicle
        for towing a caravan or a horse float? If so, will the gearing suit
        that task? Most 6 speed gearboxes are manual..are you swapping out an
        existing manual or trying to convert from auto to manual? In which
        case it will require a new flywheel etc as well. Your vehicle has a
        computer to run the electronic fuel injection pump, and an ECU to run
        the transmission as well if it is an auto gearbox.
        You will be
        better off deciding to sell the Terrano and buying an economical small
        car that is set up to get maximum fuel economy..

        John
        NZ - Mon 19th January 2015 11:33pm (GMT)

 
Subject :
I live in east timor and i have a Nissan Regulus , 1999/ 2000
.
The car when i drive it s good but if i stop very fast, like a
emergency brake the engine stop ,,,,,,
Here doesn t exist
technical information about this car and also don t have spare
parts.
Someone can help me ?
Fuel
pump?
Injectors?
automatic gearbox?
Thank s


- UK - Wed 19th November 2014 05:17am (GMT)
  • Subject :
    Noberto, have you just bought the vehicle?
    Has this behaviour just
    started?
    Is this the only time the engine quits..after an
    emergency stop?
    From what speed?

    If the vehicle is
    above 60kmh, the auto trans "locks up" in "fourth" or "overdrive" so
    that it becomes almost a manual transmisson..and if the lockup doesn't
    release for whatever reason the auto box won't automatically
    compensate for the rapid slowdown and will not change into first gear
    by the time you come to a stop. That may cause a stall.

    Any
    trouble codes or check engine lights show up?
    Does the vehicle
    start immediately after the stall if you switch the key off first,
    then restart..or can you restart the engine without turning the key
    completely back to off or acc?

    However, if the vehicle is
    below 60 kmh it should be in the lower gears anyway, and the lockup
    should not have bee..or should not be activated.

    So you can
    test this theory by emergency stops in "D" (drive) over 60 kmh as
    normal with overdrive on;
    and then other stops with overdrive
    "locked out" with the button on the gearstick from above 60 kmh; then
    below 60 kmh, followed by stops with gear held manually in 2 and in
    1.

    Any trouble codes or check engine lights show
    up?

    Do you have access to a mechanic with a scan tool who can
    check if any trouble codes have been recorded on the OBD2
    system?

    If the mechanic can ride with you and have the scan
    tool plugged in while you do these stops it may show a momentary
    fault??

    as I have said many times before, dropping the pan on
    the transmission and replacing the filter, refilling with new fluid
    and flushing the old fluid out by pumping out the old while replacing
    it with new can have a very good effect on the transmission..and may
    be the cheapest cure for it's ailments... see other previous posts on
    this subject and look up the you tube videos on how to do it
    yourself..it's not hard to do....

    John
    NZ - Wed 19th November 2014 08:38am (GMT)

    • Subject :
      If you can send more technical information about this car, i
      appreciate because here we don t have nothing. Sorry.
      From japan
      Nissan dealer say me this car it s only for japan and so, the manual s
      are in japanese language. But i just understand english and
      portuguese!

      Norberto Batista
      Dili , East Timor - Thu 20th November 2014 04:15pm (GMT)

  • Subject :
    Just a few references that I found after writing my first
    answer..
    http://www.fixya.com/cars/t1533274-stalls_out_when_brakin
    g_quickly_worse

    http://forums.nicoclub.com/99-r50-pathfinder-
    auto-transmission-shuddering-and-stalling-problems-t413529.html
    <
    br>http://terranoirk.ru/forums/manual/R20/at.pdf

    Check
    section 17, Page AT-108

    John
    - NZ - Wed 19th November 2014 11:53am (GMT)

    • Subject :
      Ei brother thank s for the information.
      1 let me tell you that is
      the first time some one tell me that . Thank s allot
      In
      Portugal... i m portuguese i have a Jeep GCherokee , automatic , it a
      gearbox RE44 , american , and no mather the speed i stop , the engine
      never stop.
      Here, in east timor i don t have access to a software
      of nissan regulus, but i will try answer all your questions
      That
      s happanen below 60km h ,,,,
      I change engine oil and filter , air
      filter , oil and filter in autogerabox, im surprised because in
      mechanic tell me it s around 16 liters
      Before this car also stop
      the engine when i stop in traffic lights and i put the gerabox in N
      waiting for the green light , then.,..when i pass to D some times the
      engine stop.
      After i go to several mechanics and spend allot of
      money , i found a portuguese mechanic can help me
      all the oils
      are new,,, the injectors are clean ,
      I fell the relanti of this
      car are very down, just around 650 rpm, it s supposed to be around
      700....750 rpm,,,,
      Only when i turn ON the air com the rel anti go
      up to 750 rpm/ 800 rpm
      Before i also turn up a little the
      accelerator pedal , because he have a regulation.But continue the same
      ....
      I m almost want broken this car belive me!
      It s more
      easy to me communicate it you by mail or facebook , can we change that
      .
      Thank you so much

      Norberto Batista
      Dili , East Timor - Thu 20th November 2014 03:18pm (GMT)

      • Subject :
        You have done all the things that are the easy fixes..except one that
        I did not mention before..and which slipped my mind until now. These
        vehicles seem to have a problem with the grounding straps that run
        from the engine to the body, and from the body to the negative
        terminal of the battery. Just to make sure, unbolt these ground
        straps, examine them for corrosion or breakage, test them with a
        multimeter while twisting them and turning and pulling on them (to
        test that there is no internal corrosion or breaks in the wire),
        including the one from the gearbox to the chassis (if there is one)
        and sandpaper the attachment points until bright metal shows. Use an
        anti-seize grease and re bolt them all down tight. The electronic
        controls for the engine and transmission rely on the ground wires for
        the electrical path back to the battery..and if the ground wires are
        corroded either inside the wires themselves or at the attachment
        point, the electricity will not flow. Since when you put the car in
        drive after being in neutral the engine and gearbox "twist" under
        torque, the wires may be disturbed just enough for the loss of
        electrical contact..and the same when you brake hard. It would be
        like the key being turned off....

        John
        NZ - Fri 21st November 2014 03:50am (GMT)

        • Subject :
          I m doing all you tell me

          My last suspicious is the fuel
          injection pump.

          Here i don t have dealer i don t have
          technical support , so please in case i need can you find i injection
          pump to me me from new zeland ? I transfer the money for your account.
          I use ANZ bank so i think it s not complicate to transfer money for
          you !

          Thank s

          Norberto Batista
          Dili , East Timor , UK - Wed 03rd December 2014 07:34am (GMT)

 
Subject :
Nissan Regulus
Norberto Batista
Dili , East Timor , East Timor - Wed 19th November 2014 05:14am (GMT)
 
Subject : Looking at 1994 Terrano II / Mistral
Looking at buying a 1994 Mistral Sport (Terrano II) here in the UK.
2.7TD Automatic. The underbody looks pretty good for the age (i.e.
not much corrosion). However, there does appear to a slight weeping
of oil from some of the pipes from the tube to the engine. Is this
normal? Also revving the engine produces a bit of black smoke.
Although the seller did mention that the vehicle had been stood around
on his drive for a while? Anything else I should look out for on this
model?

doofus
- UK - Sun 16th November 2014 08:25pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Looking at 1994 Terrano II / Mistral
    The slight leaking of oil is from the compressed air from the turbo
    going through those pipes to the intake valves of the engine. The air
    entering the turbo charger comes from two sources; out of the air
    filter, and partway along the hose leading to the turbo intake is a
    small hoses that leads to the positive crankcase ventilation valve on
    the valve cover. This small hose sucks oil misted air from the engine
    keeping a mild negative pressure on the engine and helps to keep the
    oil from leaking out from the valve cover, sump and any other place
    with a gasket or seal. In the old days it used to go straight out
    into a road draft tube, an open pipe pointed at the road surface below
    the engine..before we all got PC and sucked that waste back into the
    engine to be burnt up in the cylinders and poked out the
    exhaust....
    Anyhoo, when oil mist plus air is pressurised it tries
    to escape where ever it can, and so it leaks out at hose joints
    between rubber and metal no matter how tight you wind the
    clamps.
    Just wipe the outside every so often and ignore it for the
    rest.
    As for the excess black smoke on acceleration, the instant
    you plant foot on the accelerator the injection system pumps lots more
    diesel through the injectors..more that the turbo can produce air to
    provide the correct ratio for clean burning. As you probably noticed,
    as soon as equilibrium is reached, the smoke disappears.
    he other
    cause for excessive black smoke may be crudded-up injectors where the
    spray pattern is disrupted by carbon.
    There is lots of reading on
    this WWW about all those subjects.
    These vehicles are long
    lasting, especially the engines if maintained well. As with all
    diesels, change the oil often as the vacuum pump on the back of the
    alternator that produces the vacuum for the power brakes needs clean
    oil to continue to function well. You don't need synthetics, just a
    good 15/40w diesel oil with lots of nice detergents in it. The oil
    will go black within 100kms (diesels are dirty inside) but will last
    5000kms (3,000 miles) before needing a change. The autos last well if
    the fluid is changed every 50k or so. if using it to tow, instal an
    extra trans fluid cooler in line with the one in the bottom of the
    radiator to cope with the extra heat, and tow with the overdrive
    lockup off.

    John
    NZ - Sun 16th November 2014 11:53pm (GMT)

    • Subject : Looking at 1994 Terrano II / Mistral
      Thanks for the reply. I suppose I'm used to the more modern direct
      injection diesels which don't (or at least aren't supposed to) produce
      much visible emissions when revving the engine. I'll have to give the
      Terrano another consideration when shopping around this week.

      doofus
      UK - Mon 17th November 2014 09:57am (GMT)

      • Subject : Looking at 1994 Terrano II / Mistral
        The modern diesel also has a particulate filter in the exhaust, and
        may need "blue fluid" (urea) added as well to purify the exhaust.


        But have you seen the intake manifold of a modern direct
        injection diesel which always has an EGR (exhaust gas recirculation)
        system?

        The huge amount of very fine carbon particles
        produced by direct injection when mixed with the oil misted air from
        the crankcase/valve cover form a horrendous black hard sooty clag all
        the way to the back of the intake valves....

        Have a read on
        the internet re blocking off the EGR valves...

        John
        NZ - Wed 19th November 2014 08:48am (GMT)

 
Subject : nissan diesel patrol
HI can someone help me please when I drive all seems good until I go
over 2000 rpm then a fan kicks,Only as I accelerate and it goes over
the 2000 I can turn the inside fan on and off it makes no difference
and black smoke is starting to appear out the back now does anyone
have a clue please?

Debby kendall
Seville East, vic, australia - Mon 10th November 2014 04:44am (GMT)
  • Subject : nissan diesel patrol
    I am trying to decipher what you are telling me is the
    problem.
    The fan kicking in...is that a loud roaring sound from
    the engine compartment? Open your bonnet when the engine is cold and
    OFF. Check if you can rotate the white fan blades on the end of the
    water pump by hand. How difficult is it to turn the blades..is there
    much resistance? Do you have an auxiliary electric radiator fan fitted
    as well as the engine driven one?

    Otherwise read up about the
    operation of thermally activated fan clutches and their operation, and
    go from there.

    What temperature shows on the temp gauge when
    the fan kicks in..over half way?

    When was the last time you
    took the radiator out and gave it to a radiator shop to take the top
    and bottom tanks off and have the tubes rodded out?

    Could you
    get back to us with the results and we can go from there?

    John
    NZ - Mon 17th November 2014 12:03am (GMT)

 
Subject : CO Emissions
Hi my 1998 Terrano 2.4i has just failed its test on CO emissions it
appears to be ok on tick over but when revved to 2000rpm it goes over
the limit, have changed the O2 sensor and the cat and the reading is
still the same, have checked the air filter and changed the oil but
seem to be getting no where any one got any pointers to what may be
causing the problem.

Tim
- UK - Wed 05th November 2014 07:55pm (GMT)
  • Subject : CO Emissions
    try fual addetive in tank like fual
    injector cleaner redax

    also before adding this cleaner
    add petrol with low
    emissions more exspensive but worth trying it my be your injectors
    that need cleaning give it a try wont cost alot and will do it good
    and before you take it back for emissions give it a good run out when
    you have done all the above it should pass

    roby
    MANCHESTER, uk, UK - Thu 06th November 2014 07:01pm (GMT)

  • Subject : CO Emissions
    try fual addetive in tank like fual
    injector cleaner redax

    also before adding this cleaner
    add petrol with low
    emissions more exspensive but worth trying it my be your injectors
    that need cleaning give it a try wont cost alot and will do it good
    and before you take it back for emissions give it a good run out when
    you have done all the above it should pass

    roby
    MANCHESTER, uk, UK - Thu 06th November 2014 07:01pm (GMT)

 
Subject : nissan terrano down pipe
how do you remove front exhaust down pipe

rob
- uk, UK - Wed 05th November 2014 07:35pm (GMT)
 
Subject : 1994 gq patrol 12v nz new
Hi iv gt a problem in my rear diff.Has gt a turbo on 35s and a tough
dog setup currently having problems with rear diff that has moved
foward to one side is this a common problem??

Karam Braddick
levin, nz, new zealand - Mon 03rd November 2014 09:07pm (GMT)
  • Subject : 1994 gq patrol 12v nz new
    http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/archive/index.php/t-19381.html <
    br>
    http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/archive/index.php/t-2347
    7.html

    http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/archive/index.ph
    p/t-10899.html

    http://www.4wdparts.com.tw/products/diff-drop-
    kits-and-drop-boxes.html

    http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/nissa
    n/1046047-another-patrol-cab-chassis-but-twist.html

    http://ww
    w.pirate4x4.com/forum/nissan/1046047-another-patrol-cab-chassis-but-tw
    ist-4.html

    http://patrolapart.com.au/product/replacement-arms


    Once you have read these and other posts you will probably
    find that your lift has screwed with the radius arm and panhard rod
    settings, (as you lift the panhard rod in particular becomes too short
    and will "pull" on the axle) and you will need adjustable arms/rods to
    get the geometry sorted.
    Note that for 35's you need to move the
    front diff forward for clearance either with spacers or drop
    boxes.
    Is this an off road only truck?
    For on road, legal in
    NZ? Certified???
    Best find out before you go on road.
    Maybe
    tell your insurance company too?

    John
    NZ - Tue 04th November 2014 09:59am (GMT)

 
Subject : 1995 nissan mistral 2.7
Hi. I live in Barbados and need to get a turbocharger for a 1995
Nissan Mistral 2.7D. Can anyone direct me to where I may buy
one?

Thanks
Basil

Basil Graham
St. Michael , Barbados, UK - Fri 31st October 2014 06:54pm (GMT)
  • Subject : 1995 nissan mistral 2.7
    Pick a country most likely to have these parts available, eg UK,
    Japan, New Zealand. Use Google to find out who deals in either second
    hand parts or new. Contact them. Order the part. Make payment as
    required by the seller. Wait for part to arrive. Install
    part.
    P.S. The 2.7D is a normally aspirated engine..no turbo. The
    2.7TD is a TURBO diesel Do you know what you want???

    John
    NZ - Sun 02nd November 2014 08:52am (GMT)

 
Subject : Brake problem
Hi can anybody help!!!I have a Nissan Terrano 2 2.7TDI LWB
2004
When i brake there is a grinding noise as if its metal to
metal and i feel the rumble through my brake pedal and the pedal feels
quite hard then when i take my foot off the pedal and press again its
ok and stops me straight away. i have replaced new discs and pads the
flexi hoses on each side were replaced last year my friend has done a
live diagnostic check and no faults are showing when i brake it only
happens now and again. Will be grateful for any help you can give
me.
Thanks

Rob
Blyth, Northumberland, UK - Wed 29th October 2014 05:06pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Brake problem
    When does the grinding occur..only the first time you brake after the
    vehicle sits overnight? ...this could be a light surface rust from
    overnight dew being ground off by the first application of
    brake.
    Check with a torch(flashlight) early each morning before
    you take off for work and see if there is rust there....
    The
    likelihood for rusting increases if the replacement rotors were
    aftermarket rather than OEM Nissan.

    If it happens all through
    the day, then it won't be rust (unless the rotors are really crappy
    cast iron).
    Which side grinds the most?
    Is it Front or back
    brakes?
    Is there a possibility that there is a small stone trapped
    in between either the splash shield or the calipers and rotor?
    By
    replacing all the brake components and no doubt lubricating the pins
    upon which the calipers slide it leaves only rust or something that
    has attached itself since all new components were installed and
    whatever it is is along for the ride until you find it and fix it...

    John
    NZ - Fri 31st October 2014 05:42am (GMT)

    • Subject : Brake problem
      Cheers John
      The disc and pads have only done about 50 miles so
      there is no rust on the discs the problems is there on and off all
      day its feels like the front brakes it shudders on the brake pedal
      and a loud grinding noise when i brake and i replaced the shoes on the
      rear about 2 months ago. Do you think it maybe one of the front brake
      hoses may be faulty and is collapsing internally even though they are
      only about 18 months old. It’s a pain in the butt as i cannot take
      the caravan away until this problem is fixed.
      Cheers Rob.

      Rob
      Blyth, Northumberland, UK - Fri 31st October 2014 12:26pm (GMT)

      • Subject : Brake problem
        When you took off the old discs, did you clean very thoroughly the
        mating surface between the new disc and the hub. If not, rust on the
        seating here can make the disc wobble.
        Do you have ABS? If so,
        take the front wheels off and clean thoroughly around the sensor as
        any metallic particles including a build up of rust can cause
        problems.
        Check that the sensor has not been pushed out of
        position by rust..too big a gap can cause problems.
        I come back to
        a very pertinent point..these problems only started after new discs
        and pads were fitted.
        Did you check the dimensions of the new
        discs in relation to the old ones, e.g. diameter of centre hole, total
        thickness of discs etc?
        Did you fit them yourself?
        Did you let
        the calipers hang from the brake hose, or perhaps did you disturb the
        ABS sensor or it's wire?
        Were the discs and pads from Nissan, or a
        factor?
        What hardness rating on the pads?
        Did you follow
        instructions re breaking them in?
        Did you ever bleed all the old
        fluid out of the brakes so fresh fluid flows throughout the system?

        Have you checked wheel bearing play and wear? Ever repacked the
        front wheel bearings?
        If all else fails, it's time to take the
        problem to an expert to have him look over what you have done. He may
        spot the problem within seconds...that allows you to go on holiday
        pronto.

        John
        NZ - Sun 02nd November 2014 08:46am (GMT)

        • Subject : Brake problem
          http://www.4wdaction.com.au/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=140177
          >http://bebrs.pie-dabas.net/Webs/Terrano/R20/br.pdf

          http://ww
          w.nissanforums.com/pathfinder/153403-front-grinding-noise-when-brake-a
          pplied.html

          http://www.clarkmotorsport.co.uk/Brakes-FAQ/59.ht
          ml

          john
          NZ - Sun 02nd November 2014 09:27am (GMT)

 
Subject : NISSAN 2.7 TD 1995
GOING TO REMOVE FRONTEXHUAST DOWN PIPE
LOOKS VERY TRICKY DO YOU
HAVE TO
DROP CROSS MEMBER AS ANYONEONE DONE ONE

ROBY
MANCHESTER, UK, UK - Sun 26th October 2014 09:13am (GMT)
  • Subject : NISSAN 2.7 TD 1995
    Remove left front wheel after jacking up left side and resting vehicle
    on jack stands and go in through the rubber curtain that covers the
    hole in the inner mudguard..like you do when you replace the oil
    filter.
    if you don't usually even replace the oil filter, bite the
    bullet and take the vehicle to an exhaust place where they can fix
    f-ups like broken studs, screwed nuts, replace gaskets etc on
    site.
    Doing that enables you to drive in and drive out......

    John
    NZ - Fri 31st October 2014 05:49am (GMT)

    • Subject : NISSAN 2.7 TD 1995
      so front end jacked up wheel removed
      then rubber inspection
      curtain removed
      from inner wheel arch.

      now then there is
      3 studs holding down pipe to manifold so undue this nuts then under
      jeep unduo 2 studs from centre pipe so which way will down pipe be
      removed



      rob
      manchester, UK, UK - Sun 02nd November 2014 10:51am (GMT)

  • Subject : NISSAN 2.7 TD 1995

    azme mrewat
    nazareth, israel nazareth, UK - Thu 11th December 2014 04:04pm (GMT)

 
Subject : Nissan Terrano 3 litre
I have a 04 Nissan Terrano 3L manual, Turbo diesel. When in normal
drive the vehicle runs well. When I put it into 4WD high and worse
still into 4WD low the vehicle has a very heavy drag on the steering.
It seems to be fighting against the steering when I try to turn the
wheel and there is a nasty "clunk" which shakes the whole back axle.
I have checked the oil and have put in the correct limited slip-diff
oil but it is no better. When I drained the diff.oil I took the cover
off the diff. and there was no sign of any damage inside. The only
other thing I can say there are 245x17 tyres all round instead of the
normal 235 tyres. But surely this wouldn`t make a difference as they
are all the same size. Any ideas please?

Ralph
Wrexham, N. Wales, UK - Thu 09th October 2014 03:07pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Nissan Terrano 3 litre
    You have "selectable 4WD".
    This means that when you select 4wd
    the entire drive line both front and back is sent the same amount of
    power from the transfer case. Any attempt to turn the front wheels
    means one front wheel is going to have to try to cover more ground
    (the "outside of the curve" wheel, and the inner wheel will cover less
    ground (fewer rotations). The drive coming to the front wheels from
    the transfer case will not change. Somehow the front diff has to
    cope.
    This "coping" is the drag you feel.
    If you also have a
    limited slip diff in the front axle,(not very common because the
    "fight" is even worse, and something only hardcore 4WD enthusiasts
    welcome) it will fight this "slip' between the two front wheels. (it
    will try to "not slip") Depending on how "tight" the LSD action has
    been set up, this can and will give you bangs and shudders.
    If
    you have a LSD rear axle diff as well, those wheels will be doing the
    same battle at the other end of the vehicle. As one wheel grips best,
    the LSD transfers some of the drive force to the other "slipping"
    wheel bang grip, slip,bang grip slip, bang..
    Now if you are on a
    slippery surface, say mud, wet grass or clay, sand or gravel, the
    drive line can cope as all wheels can slip. However, on tarmac,
    concrete, hard packed surfaces etc the drive line "winds up" as the
    wheels cannot slip...until the pressure overcomes the wheel grip on a
    loose stone or slippery bit (or a very expensive bit of metal goes
    "bang".
    Since all your tyres are the same size it is only the
    operating conditions that you are subjecting the vehicle to that are
    causing what you perceive as a problem.
    The resistance to changing
    direction even in a normal "open" diff is perfectly normal as the back
    wheels are still trying to push the vehicle in the easiest direction
    i.e. straight ahead.

    I hope this helps.
    For more
    detailed explanations and diagrams do a google search or refer to your
    local library for a book on 4WD operation.

    Be very pleased
    you can select 4WD, rather than having an all wheel drive. BMW front
    diffs can explode in very little pieces just from being put on rollers
    in brake tests for the MOT, or ion street driving "yumping" with the
    front end coming off the ground and losing traction. In NZ, that is
    $8000..about 3500 pounds before labour....

    John
    NZ - Sat 11th October 2014 05:24am (GMT)

 
Subject : ecu reader
hi I have a Terrano 1999 2.4i with the KA24E engine
Is there a
socket to plug a code reader into, where abouts is the ecu and socket
and has anyone used a code reader to diagnose faults, and if so which
one was it.
Thanks

Tim
- UK - Sun 05th October 2014 10:07pm (GMT)
  • Subject : ecu reader
    Google is your friend. Google "port location 1999 nissan
    terrano"

    get
    results

    https://www.google.co.nz/search?q=1999+terrano+OBD+sc
    an+port+location&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official
    &client=firefox-beta&channel=sb&gfe_rd=cr&ei=8vc0VJakC8yN8Qekq4GwBQ r>
    https://www.google.co.nz/search?q=1999+terrano+OBD+scan+port+lo
    cation&client=firefox-beta&hs=7F9&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&chann
    el=sb&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=8vc0VJ-NJtf58AWWsICYDA&ved=0C
    EcQsAQ&biw=1024&bih=658&dpr=1.25


    http://www.rac.co.uk/fo
    rum/showthread.php?5576-Nissan-Terrano-II-ECU-errors

    http://c
    odes.rennacs.com/Petrol-Engine/Japanese-Korean/Nissan-Engines.php



    Have at it.

    John
    NZ - Wed 08th October 2014 09:47am (GMT)

 
Subject : 4wd warning light
hello, hoping somebody can help please. recently the orange 4wd
warning light has been coming on on my dashboard.it randomly switches
the light on when im driving. the revs also increase, i had a friend
test it and it isn't actually in full 4wd ,took it for a test on a
local paddock in both 2 and 4wd and it definitely isn't in 4wd when
the light is on ,hence why I think it is just a warning light.if I
turn off the ignition (99% of the time) the light turns off the revs
drop and its fine ...until next time (which is often) .so does anybody
have any clue what this is. we have removed the switch to see if it
was that, not that and have reconnected it. could it just need more
fluid, or a transmission service maybe? or something else. any help
much appreciated. the make and model is petrol 1997 terrano regulus
auto. im thinking big $$$$$ its scaring me. thank you

vicki prince
lower hutt, new zealnd - Fri 03rd October 2014 05:52am (GMT)
  • Subject : 4wd warning light
    Have you recently bought and fitted new tyres to the vehicle, either
    both front or both back? If so and the vehicle does have ABS, then the
    warning may be for a mis-match in the rolling circumference of the
    tyres causing a warning that if 4wd is engaged the mismatch could
    cause "wind-up" in the driveline as one set of wheels would turn
    faster than the other, even in a straight line. If the vehicle does
    have ABS.
    Otherwise I suggest taking the vehicle to a technician
    with a scan machine and interrogating the computer for the fault codes
    that will be in there, before you start throwing parts and service at
    it....

    John
    NZ - Sat 04th October 2014 06:21am (GMT)

    • Subject : 4wd warning light
      an update on this incase anybody else has the same issue, went on
      computer for a test and it was the throttle position sensor.didnt need
      replacing ,just cleaning and had loose intake hose tightened.so
      relieved ,I was thinking this was going to be expensive, $150 and good
      as new incuding the best car groom ever ,thanks to an honest mechanic
      who could have "found" or charged me for more.

      vicki prince
      lower hutt, new zealand, nz - Tue 14th October 2014 04:54am (GMT)

  • Subject : 4wd warning light
    Hey,just had new tire,s put on my nissan terrano and 4wd light comes
    on and flashes after about 15 mins ive heard due to height difference
    as front ones are worn and back have new tread and on board computer
    picks it up as problem.this info from nissan dealer.chch.

    carl
    christchurch, new zealand - Tue 03rd March 2015 06:43am (GMT)

    • Subject : 4wd warning light
      thanks carl, I had read that on other forums too.in this case it was
      just the sensor its-self.got a new one from the wrecker and its been
      fine since.

      vicki prince
      Lower Hutt, new zealand, nz - Wed 04th March 2015 06:15am (GMT)

 
Subject : blinking red light and beeping on center armrest console
My daughters 1994 Pathfinder has a red light blinking in the center
armrest console and a beeping noise. I need help clearing it and what
is causing it.

Dave Lawson
Blytheville, Arkansas, USA - Wed 20th August 2014 12:25am (GMT)
 
Subject : Rear Axle
re previous message, I would like to know if a rear axle from an early
terrano will fit a terrano 11 2003 with rear differential removal. if
not does anyone know the difference

mr b grimes
Widnes, Cheshire, UK - Sat 02nd August 2014 02:34pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Rear Axle
    Are you asking if the complete rear axle (wheel to wheel) from an
    early Terrano (which one, the Spanish built or the Japanese) will fit
    a late model Terrano (which one, Spanish or Japanese?
    Or are you
    asking if the axle (the steel shaft going from the differential to the
    hub) will fit (Spanish or Japanese made) etc etc???

    John
    NZ - Thu 07th August 2014 06:15am (GMT)

    • Subject : Rear Axle
      Both Japanese, and have found out since that the axle fits, the only
      difference is the gearing. Thanks anyway

      Barry Grimes
      Widnes, Cheshire, UK - Thu 07th August 2014 05:23pm (GMT)

      • Subject : Rear Axle
        HI Barry,
        I have just bought a Terrano II and live in
        Runcorn.
        Could you contact me please on

        marnione176@hotmail.co.uk
        Hopefully use your
        knowledge
        Thanks Paul Mahon

        Paul Mahon
        runcorn , Cheshire, UK - Mon 29th September 2014 07:36am (GMT)

 
Subject : rear axle
does a early terrano rear axle with rear differential removal, fit the
terrano 11. does anyone know please

mr b grimes
widnes, cheshire, UK - Sat 02nd August 2014 02:27pm (GMT)
 
Subject : breaking
Hi Iam Currently Breaking mistral and terrano 1996 to 1999 2.7td and
2.7tdi so if you need parts reply can post most parts s

robert lane
Gloucester, gloucewstershire, UK - Sat 02nd August 2014 11:59am (GMT)
  • Subject : breaking

    Dear Hellen,

    Please give me a quotation for the LCL
    spare parts mentioned below:

    BF Number: CV43985
    Make:
    NISSAN MISTRAL
    I need replacement parts for Nissan Mistral Model:
    TD27B. Following are the parts I need.
    FRONT BUMPER AMBER
    INDICATOR LIGHTS (Both passenger and driver side) + Fender
    Mirror

    please give me a quote including shipping cost

    VICTOR LIKANDO MWAZI
    Lusaka, Lusaka, Zambia - Sun 17th August 2014 05:16pm (GMT)

  • Subject : breaking
    i,m looking a passenger side door mirror for my terrano 1998 but says
    its a mistral because its a jap import

    dillion
    belfast, co antrim, UK - Tue 27th January 2015 09:51am (GMT)

 
Subject : nissan Terrano 2.7 litre R20 diesel 1997
Have air in fuel line and Nissan mechanics cannot find out why. Does
anyone know?

dawn
coomera, qld., australia - Thu 31st July 2014 07:00am (GMT)
  • Subject : nissan Terrano 2.7 litre R20 diesel 1997
    Did the air leak start after you had the vehicle serviced, i.e. say
    after you had the fuel filter changed? If not, then you will have to
    start looking for the air leak in the fuel system anywhere in the line
    from the tank (including the pickup tube inside the tank..does the air
    leak happen more often at low tank levels???) all the way to the first
    pump (the lift pump) since after the first pump the fuel will be under
    pressure.
    Top suspect and easiest fix would be a leaking seal on
    the fuel filter. (also check the filter housing that the filter screws
    into for cracking)second would be a pinhole in a steel line caused by
    rubbing/flexing of the line against some part of the body, third a
    crack in the pickup line inside the tank...

    John
    NZ - Sat 02nd August 2014 06:57am (GMT)

  • Subject : nissan Terrano 2.7 litre R20 diesel 1997
    air in system try the fuel primer
    its on the right side its
    got a plunger on top off it which you press a few times and till you
    feel resistance
    i add this problem and ever time you rev up lots
    of white smoke i even went to a diesel fitter he told me it could be
    the injector pump put was not sure
    so i did my own thing and found
    the problem
    it was dieyerphram that was damaged and drawing air in
    inside fuel primer
    its on your right the one that the fuel filter
    screw to let me know how get on for more info

    roby
    MANCHESTER, uk, UK - Wed 05th November 2014 07:03pm (GMT)

 
Subject : Terrano rear axle noise
I have a Nissan Terrano 11 se W reg 2000
s/wb 2.7 My rear axle is
rumbling as I drive if I Depress the clutch The noise goes away have
you any ideas to rectify please thank you

edward
Wrexham, Flintshire, UK - Fri 25th July 2014 12:28pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Terrano rear axle noise
    Drain your rear axle. Examine the colour and contents of the gear oil
    that comes out. If it sparkles with metallic particles the
    differential will need an overhaul..new bearings etc.
    If you
    entrust this inspection to a professional, get them to quote re an
    overhaul versus the complete replacement "bolt in" of a good
    second-hand axle, "wheel to wheel".
    You could do the research
    yourself at the local wreckers to give an indication as to the normal
    price of the second hand unit before fitting costs are factored in.
    Some wreckers will also give a warranty..say three months..if problems
    develop they will get another unit to repalce the faulty one. It's not
    rocket science..you and a friend could do this yourselves with a few
    tools and some planning.

    This may also give you the
    opportunity to put in a limited slip diff (if you don't already have
    one).

    Also it allows you to have a good look at the radius
    arm bushings..they may as well be replaced at the same time. Refer to
    "Nissan death wobble" in Pathfinders in the US. You have the same
    suspension...)

    As always, maintenance is the key....it pays
    to drain and refill the rear axle every 30k or so, (a 15 minute job,
    and 2.8 litres of fluid available at all factors etc) and it should
    also be drained and refilled at any time if the axle has been immersed
    in water over 500mm deep, as the rapidly cooling diff sucks in water
    through the bearings and the axle breathers......

    John
    NZ - Sat 26th July 2014 06:45am (GMT)

  • Subject : Terrano rear axle noise
    check your propshift universal joints
    for play can couse alot of
    rumbling

    rob
    MANCHESTER, UK - Wed 05th November 2014 07:28pm (GMT)

 
Subject : Oil breather
My 2001 2.7 Auto developed smoke from oil breather,filler cap and
around that area, Spanish mechanic changed oil,filter and cleaned
breather with Benzine but problem has come back after 3-4 weeks.Nissan
garage here says if I change breather 247€.... the problem will come
back as its an old car,no offer of flushing oil, is there another
valve maybe thats blocked

Ray Mynott
Fuengirola, Malaga, Spain - Tue 01st July 2014 11:29am (GMT)
  • Subject : Oil breather
    The PCV (positive crankcase ventilation ) system draws air mixed with
    oil fumes out of the engine and into the air intake through the rubber
    pipe leading from the rocker cover to the plastic tubing (just in
    front of the turbo) from the air filter. If you blow through this you
    should notice no effort is required to blow; it free-flows
    air.
    Google "catch tank" and you will see that you can separate
    out most of the oil mist..except when the engine is worn out. Then
    the blow-by gases leaking past the piston rings overwhelm the system,
    and the crankcase has a positive (pressurised) amount of air inside
    which will escape from every hole it can find....resulting in oily
    pastches like you have at the joints in the engine, such as rocker
    cover, oil filler hole, turbo piping and joints etc.
    So, is your
    vehicle that old and worn that no matter how many holes and rubber
    tubes you were to put in it would still have excess pressure and
    leaks?
    If so, you will need to either fix it or scrap it.
    May
    I suggest that you mostly ignore it, but keep an eye on the severity
    of the oil fumes produced. If that gets too much, Google "runaway
    engine" and see what could happen if the fumes actually start fuelling
    the engine.....

    John
    NZ - Wed 02nd July 2014 10:46am (GMT)

 
Subject : Rough idle td2.7
My 97 teranno 2.7TD has developed a rough idle and low speed cutting
out.Starts first kick and goes well at normal speeds with no loss of
power but gets rather jerky when coming off the throttle.All filters
have been replaced and the maf sensor carefully cleaned but no
difference.Would appreciate any ideas before I do the sensible thing
and take it to a diesel mechanic.Cheers Laurie

Iaurie
Cheshunt, Victoria, Australia - Tue 01st July 2014 02:12am (GMT)
  • Subject : Rough idle td2.7
    Laurie, what about first ringing the diesel expert to see if he has a
    a scan tool to check what trouble codes might be lurking in the ECU
    brain? This could give the diesel expert (who may or may not have a
    scan tool) a clue or a confirmation as to the problem.


    John
    NZ - Tue 01st July 2014 06:39am (GMT)

    • Subject : Rough idle td2.7
      A reading showing No1 injector lift sensor problem can also mean any
      one of the injectors or all of them have a problem..how many kms on
      the clock?
      Ever had the injectors overhauled/replaced? Any
      problems with water/crap in the fuel? Dirty fuel filters a problem
      before you changed in the last filter? Ever had a look at the small
      gauze filter under the banjo bolt on the fuel line connection to the
      injector pump? Glow plugs tested and all firing correctly at start up
      including up to 50 degrees c during warmup? Any smoke out the tail
      pipe in excess of what it used to be?

      John
      NZ - Tue 01st July 2014 06:45am (GMT)

      • Subject : Rough idle td2.7
        Took it to a diesel shop today and was told actuator valve was the
        prob and over $2000 to fix or $18000 !!for reconditioned pump.This for
        a car worth $3500 tops.Will wait till I get home for another
        quote..Cheers John..Laurie

        Laurie
        Ceshunt, Victoria, Australia - Wed 02nd July 2014 07:13am (GMT)

        • Subject : Rough idle td2.7
          The suction control valve is a lot cheaper than that to buy....
          John
          NZ - Fri 04th July 2014 11:06am (GMT)

 
Subject : Noise
I have a humming noise while driving though it was wheel bearing so
changed passenger side, but still humming but worse got drivers front
wheel bearing change 6 months ago. When turning left at roughly 30mph
it's worse but a lot quieter when turning right. Someone says it's the
front diff but wouldn't the diff humm and wine all the time and not
get worse or less noise when turning left or right???

Gordon hylands
Renfrew , Glasgow, UK - Sat 28th June 2014 05:29pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Noise
    How aggressive is your tyre pattern? Mud grips really hum, A/T gently
    hum, and HT is the quietest tread pattern.
    So, did you change
    tyres shortly before the humming started to bother you?
    If there
    has been no change in the tyres, and both wheel bearings have been
    replaced and set correctly, then the only possible noise maker left
    would be the differential, which actually works harder when you are
    turning than when you run in a straight line.
    You did not say the
    make, model, year and gearbox/hi-lo ratio etc of your particular
    vehicle, so the following may/not apply?
    Is your vehicle permanent
    4WD? Or is it selectable? Does it have auto- engaging hubs? Do you
    know if these work properly..i.e. if they actually are
    disengaging?
    If both sides are disengaged the steering effort is
    slight. Both engaged, the steering effort is high. One side not
    disengaged will pull strongly towards that side.
    Please get back
    to us with more details if this does not fit your situation....

    John
    NZ - Sun 29th June 2014 01:25am (GMT)

 
Subject : nissan navara auto gearbox
By mistake when i was checking coolant level, i interchanged the caps
- for radiator cap and breather cap. the problem now is the car is not
moving fast as it used to be. its like the gears are taking time to
change and is making a lot of raving noise before it changes to the
next gear. i have done all the service, but nothing has changed. the
manual book is saying the engine may overheat if you interchange the
caps. what should i do, please help, i bought the car recently, its a
2007 model, 4by4 2.5 dci. please help i am very desperate and i do not
know what i should do now

james
keyness, Hetfordshire, uk - Thu 26th June 2014 09:24am (GMT)
  • Subject : nissan navara auto gearbox
    Keyness, you cannot be helped. the last time you posted this on
    another website you were from Africa..troll.

    John
    NZ - Fri 27th June 2014 06:27am (GMT)

    • Subject : nissan navara auto gearbox
      http://www.roadtestreports.co.uk/questions-and-answers/nissan/Navara/

      james, Botswana
      Nissan Navara

      recently imported my
      car from Uk to Botswana. By mistake i interchanged the radiator cap
      and the breather cap. Its no longer speeding as it used to do. gears
      are taking time to move to the next gear (automatic). i have changed,
      oil, filters but nothing has changed. Any idea what this might be.
      Please help. the car is Nissan Navara Aventura 2.5 DCI, AUTOMATIC ,
      2007 model. its hard to drive

      Answers

      James, take
      your vehicle to a mechanic. Anyone that can't tell the difference
      between a radiator cap and a breather cap NEEDS to see a mechanic. you
      have probably done other damage to the vehicle and you will do more
      damage if you don't go and see a mechanic. John Smith from New
      Zealand

      Submitted: 26/05/2014 14:58:18 | ID: 96191

      John
      NZ - Fri 27th June 2014 06:36am (GMT)

 
Subject : terrano 2.7 sunroof
My sunroof is not working when press the switch, At first it was just
clcking and moving up down about half an inch,Now it has stopt
clicking alltogether with no movement or sound,

Barry McHale
runcorn, cheshire, UK - Wed 25th June 2014 09:07am (GMT)
  • Subject : terrano 2.7 sunroof
    http://www.justanswer.com/nissan/2ozjt-1998-nissan-pathfinder-sunroof-
    leaking.html

    John
    NZ - Thu 26th June 2014 07:12am (GMT)

    • Subject : terrano 2.7 sunroof
      terranoirk.ru/forums/manual/R20/bt.pdf
      John
      NZ - Thu 26th June 2014 07:21am (GMT)

 
Subject : nissan pathfiner
Does a terrano 2.7 engine fit in a pathfinder
david
Banbridge, UK - Tue 17th June 2014 10:23pm (GMT)
  • Subject : nissan pathfiner
    Possibly if you lay it down on it's side and have both rear seats down
    you might be able to get it in.

    John
    NZ - Wed 18th June 2014 06:45am (GMT)

  • Subject : nissan pathfiner
    What I was ment to say can it go into the engine bay as a replacement
    david
    Banbridge, UK - Wed 18th June 2014 07:32am (GMT)

    • Subject : nissan pathfiner
      David, what engine is in there at the moment? Is it a manual gearbox,
      because if it is an auto, you will have to cobble together an ECU,a
      new bell housing, flywheel and flex plate as well...
      in most
      cases unless you are replacing like for like the end result is an
      expensive time and cash devouring orphan with little resale value.

      John
      NZ - Thu 19th June 2014 04:02am (GMT)

 
Subject : Speedo sensor
Nissan navara 96 d21 4x4 speedo sensor are they the same as 2wd of
same model

Barry
Yeppoon , QLD , Australia - Thu 05th June 2014 08:51am (GMT)
  • Subject : Speedo sensor
    99% certainty that the sensor would be the same if the type of
    transmission (automatic) is the same. Wanna bet???
    If not, ask
    your Nissan dealer parts department if the part numbers are the same
    for both models...they should know..

    john
    NZ - Mon 09th June 2014 04:20am (GMT)

 
Subject :
hi does anyone know how difficult it is to change the front down pipe
exhaust on a 98 auto terrano ?thanks ste

ste
- UK - Wed 04th June 2014 02:20pm (GMT)
  • Subject :
    Haven't done it to my own, but there is always a problem with exhaust
    where corroded fasteners slow things down. Plus, do you have a
    replacement pipe ready to install? If not, you will need one.....

    John
    NZ - Mon 09th June 2014 04:23am (GMT)

  • Subject :
    i am about to remove front down pipe
    becouse been qoute £136 plus
    vat
    have posted the same regarding removing
    down pipe i can
    buy one of ebay for£35 been told that you jack up jeep
    then
    support with stands .
    take off front wheel on the manifold side
    then remove rubber inspection curtian thats inside wheel
    arch.
    once removed you will be able to locate 3 studs that held
    the down pipe
    now this is wear you could shear the studs off you
    could start engine and warm it up this will make it more easy to losen
    studs this should work and carefull whilste working around very hot
    pipe .
    now bolts have been removed there will be 2 more under jeep
    in centre of exhuast . this is information that i already know
    before i start .
    what i want to now when all bolts are removed
    from down pipe it will be free to remove but which way dos it
    go


    roby
    MANCHESTER, uk, UK - Sun 02nd November 2014 07:41pm (GMT)

 
Subject : Nissan Terrano Used car parts
I am looking for a used starter motor and waterpump
Val
Waitakere City, NZ, UK - Mon 02nd June 2014 12:36pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Nissan Terrano Used car parts
    Try Trade Me or a wrecker who is linked to all other wreckers in NZ
    for guaranteed results.

    John
    NZ - Mon 02nd June 2014 10:07pm (GMT)

 
Subject : Nissan Mistral
hi there, i have a 94 Nissan Mistral that take a bit longer to change
gears from 2nd gear to 3rd gear (rpm goes up to 2500 then only change
the gears), 1st to 2nd is ok,is that something to do with tranny? did
an ATF changed a week ago, still no luck. hope someone can give me
some advise.

Alwinn
Auckland, NZ, NZ - Tue 27th May 2014 02:22pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Nissan Mistral
    Do you have a power/normal/hold button on the dash? If so, make sure
    it is in "Normal" mode. "Power' will hold in the gears to a higher rev
    than usual before ther trans changes up..just what your symptoms
    are....

    John
    NZ - Wed 28th May 2014 04:20am (GMT)

  • Subject : Nissan Mistral
    Hi.check the TPS (Throttle control sensor) first, then the speed
    sensor.If they check ok it maybe the shift solenoid. sounds like the
    transmission needs to go to a tech.

    Bill Blyth
    - Nz - Sat 16th May 2015 08:43pm (GMT)

 
Subject : terrano 3.0l
hi i have a Nissan Terrano 3.0l 04 plate it has slowly lost power over
last couple of months..
Iv serviced it with all
filters..
ehaust was blowing in flexi at front of motor fixed that
as well.
Toady the turbo was making alot of noise an in result
after stopping the motor is smoking with white an blue smoke
continually an the engine knows flutters on its own as you take your
foot of the throttle.
is this sounding just like a turbo prob or
more????
pls can some one give me advice as its a clean motor..

jemma
Norwich, uk, UK - Mon 26th May 2014 09:17am (GMT)
  • Subject : terrano 3.0l
    Jemma, frankly this doesn't sound good...I would suspect the turbo
    bearings being worn out. Please do not drive the vehicle as when the
    bearing really let go at speed, the engine can "run away" as the oil
    from the crankcase is pumped into the intake and becomes fuel for the
    engine. You cannot stop it by turning off the key. Google runaway
    diesel to see it happen.
    You need to see a good mechanic who will
    assess the situation before informing you of the best course of
    action.
    The turbo will cost, but the worry is any other damage to
    the engine itself from bits that may have been ground off the turbo
    blades etc.
    If you are going to deal with the engine on a DIY
    basis, unbolt the turbo to have it overhauled, ask the overhauler to
    assess and ascertain what fragments of blades may be missing,and
    before giving him the ok to overhaul the turbo, check for those bits
    in the inlet manifold, AND check cylinder compressions.
    If all
    your compressions are good, and there are no bits found, go ahead with
    the overhaul and bolt the overhauled turbo back on and see what
    happens.
    You may be lucky....

    However if damage to the
    motor has also occurred, then it may be better to replace it with a
    second hand good one from a wrecker.

    John
    NZ - Wed 28th May 2014 04:36am (GMT)

 
Subject : nissan sd33t
What would make a poping sound coming from the exhaust
Trevor
Adelaide, South Australia, Australia - Sun 25th May 2014 10:08am (GMT)
  • Subject : nissan sd33t
    If you had a Pope in your exhaust pipe, he could make a poping sound.
    However, the normal "popping" on overrun is an occasional partially
    unburnt charge of air and fuel not completely burnt in the engine
    which exits the exhaust valve and is then ignited by another exiting
    and still burning charge from an adjacent cylinder. "Pop" goes the
    exhaust. Big bore exhausts with straight through mufflers emphasise
    this otherwise non- harmful sound.

    John
    NZ - Mon 26th May 2014 06:23am (GMT)

  • Subject : nissan sd33t
    So check your ignition components, coil packs, HT wires, but most of
    all, sparkplugs.

    John
    - NZ - Mon 26th May 2014 06:25am (GMT)

 
Subject :
help needed have 98 tdi lwb auto the problem is that when moving 4wd
lever the light on the dash does not come on has anyone else had this
problem if so how would u fix it many thanks ..daz

daz
- UK - Wed 21st May 2014 07:59pm (GMT)
  • Subject :
    Replies to previous posts with electrical problems which you can read
    in this thread point towards known poor grounding points needing
    cleaning, and to every connector going to the transmission units
    needing to be taken apart and sprayed with contact cleaner. After
    doing that, start looking at a blown bulb in the dash.

    John
    NZ - Thu 22nd May 2014 05:24am (GMT)

 
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