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Subject : 2004 3ltr Terrano
Ihave a Terrano which I have owned and
maintaind from 12 months
old,recently it
has started loosing cooling water with
external leaks,is this a common fault,
orginally I needed
to refill the expansion tank now its the rad,any ideas

Peter Cleminson
Manchester, Lancashire, UK - Fri 13th November 2015 08:49pm (GMT)
  • Subject : 2004 3ltr Terrano
    Did the engine get hot at all , Any bubbles in the radiator when the
    engine is running ?

    nz - Sun 15th November 2015 10:42am (GMT)

    • Subject : 2004 3ltr Terrano
      Steve thanks for the reply,engine runs at
      normal temp,no
      bubles,have noticed that with the heater off the expansion tank keeps
      the rad full,heater on level drops in radiator,coolant loss is
      500m/100 miles,sump oil level is static,hope this helps,peter

      Peter Cleminson
      Manchester, Lancashire, UK - Mon 16th November 2015 07:17pm (GMT)

      • Subject : 2004 3ltr Terrano
        Sounds like it could be a leaking heater core but that would mean that
        you would have wet carpets in the foot well under the dash. Maybe
        leaking heater hose ?

        NZ - Tue 17th November 2015 06:25am (GMT)

        • Subject : 2004 3ltr Terrano
          Steve,have not been able to find any external leaks,have disconected
          the heater hoses and connected pipes from the engine to see what
          happens because the heater has a drain tray which exits near the
          chassis and is difficult too see, will let you know in a few

          Peter Cleminson
          Manchester, Lancashire, UK - Wed 18th November 2015 04:15pm (GMT)

          • Subject : 2004 3ltr Terrano
            Steve,air temperature dropped so had to reconnect heater also had
            aproblem finding a suitable piece of rubber pipe,
            will have
            another try next week,Peter.

            manchester, Lancs, UK - Thu 26th November 2015 07:49pm (GMT)

Subject : Terrano workshop manual
Hi there,
I am desperately trying to get hold of a Nissan Terrano
2.7 ll service manual to cover my 2001 TDi. Paperback seems to by as
difficult to get hold of as rocking horse poo.
Does anyone have
one or a link to a decent pdf file to download.

Kevin Durrant
Newtownards, County Down NI, Northern Ireland - Mon 26th October 2015 08:38pm (GMT)
Subject : dust cap sizes
i have a split dust cover on my front dog bone steering link bar the
bar is not ols so i want to replace the split cover has anyone any
idea of the dimensions so that i can buy a replacement

canterbury, UK - Wed 21st October 2015 08:32pm (GMT)
  • Subject : dust cap sizes
    If you can see it, you will be able to reach it.Get under there with a
    set of calipers and measure the torn boot.
    You will have to take
    the drag link out anyway to fit it.
    I was able to buy a dust boot
    for a ball joint for another vehicle only because the factor I went to
    had scrapped about 10 brand new ball joints and had kept the caps and
    their retaining springs.
    You may have to do a lot of telephoning
    before you find the right dust boot....

    NZ - Thu 22nd October 2015 10:58am (GMT)

Subject : stalling
I have a 1995 mistral 2.7 diesel auto
in the morning it starts on
the button,
then after a couple of minutes it starts stuttering
the just stalls, even when driving, any ideas please

sheerness, Kent, UK - Mon 28th September 2015 09:50am (GMT)
  • Subject : stalling
    The stalling after a couple of minutes: are you actually driving
    along at over 20mph, or under 20 and / or coming to a stop or trying
    to accelerate away?
    The reason behind the question is that the
    starting on the button means the glow plugs are obviously working at
    the start; however there is a tricky little relay which activates
    until the temperature of the coolant reaches 50c, or the speed of the
    vehicle reaches/exceeds 20mph.
    This relay cycles the glow plugs
    to keep "the fire lit", so to speak.
    How quickly can you restart
    after the engine stops?
    When the engine is warmed up, normal
    operating temperature, is there any stalling/stuttering then?
    you recently done any maintenance, e.g. changed fuel filter, changed
    battery etc etc?
    You could test the operation of the glow plugs by
    connecting a multi meter to the buss bar that connects all the plugs
    together and noting the voltage at start, and the lower voltage that
    occurs when the relay cycles the glow plugs at a lower voltage until
    the parameters are met to cease operation...

    NZ - Wed 30th September 2015 10:18am (GMT)

Subject : 3.0 patrol

I have a 2001 3.0 tdi patrol.Im looking for ways to gain
more power out of the engine? The problem is when towing? engine temp
guage rises very quickly and is very underpowered?
any help would
be appreciated?

Thanks Doug.

coin, malaga, spain - Fri 18th September 2015 02:41pm (GMT)
  • Subject : 3.0 patrol
    You have two choices...
    if you are happy at all other
    times with the performance of the vehicle,but it is too underpowered
    for towing...reduce the size of the caravan, or slow down and enjoy
    life in the slow lane.

    If you can't stand the performance of
    the vehicle overall, and it's getting you down, change your vehicle to
    one with higher horsepower.
    The 3.0 is known to be weak on
    horsepower, and in Aus and NZ has the least hp of all it's

    You can't change that.
    You could install a
    new more powerful engine, but you would create an

    Your choice.
    Spend money on better cooling
    system, new radiator, extra electric fans, aux engine oil cooler and
    extra large auto trans cooler (with fans) and still lack hp uphill, or
    change the vehicle....

    nz - Wed 23rd September 2015 09:56am (GMT)

    • Subject : 3.0 patrol
      Google 3.0 Nissan diesel problems and be prepared to spend an hour or
      two reading about problems especially with pre 2003 engines..Aussies
      are blocking EGR off, catch can on PCV from tappet cover to turbo
      inlet, extra large inter cooler to cool charge air down to improve HP,
      EGT gauge to know when to back off and avoid grenading the engine,

      NZ - Wed 23rd September 2015 10:28am (GMT)

Subject : Terrano II Turbo
Hi there. I have happily had my 2000 2.7 TDI Terrano II for 13 years.
No major mechanical problems. However, I have noticed that I no
longer hear the sound of the turbo when it kicks out at cruise speed.
Consumption has increased. Could it be that the turbo stays on? Or
could it be a pipe that has worn or cracked. Mileage 277 000 odd
This lady would appreciate any advice.


Marie Rossouw
Johannesburg, South Africa - Thu 10th September 2015 08:35am (GMT)
  • Subject : Terrano II Turbo
    check very carefully all the rubber piping to and from the turbo
    intake for any splits, holes etc. take the rubber hoses off and bend
    and twist them because the rubber could be perished and either let air
    out, or let unfiltered, unmetered air in.
    If you have access to a
    pressure gauge, attach it to to a point on the pressurised side of the
    intake manifold and read the pressure while driving, accelerating,
    backing off, and cruising.
    Also check the inter cooler for oil
    leaks. If you can see where oil is leaking out, there is a hole...this
    will let out the turbo pressurised air.
    The oil that goes through
    the intercooler is blow by fumes from the comes from the
    tappet cover, down a small tube and into the rubber air intake hose
    between the air filter and the turbo mouth.
    You can take the whole
    inter cooler off and clean it out. It can be done b y sloshing a good
    amount of petrol through it several times until the petrol comes out
    without oil in it, but if you do this let it stand outside for 24
    hours for all the fumes to dissipate..otherwise big boom in engine and
    lots of repairs needed.....
    By cleaning the inter cooler it
    restores the efficiency of cooling the turbo pressurised air which
    provides more power.

    NZ - Sun 13th September 2015 11:20am (GMT)

Subject : Oil smell
Strong smell of gear oil once car is warm when opening any window on a

Banbury, Oxon, UK - Wed 12th August 2015 07:57pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Oil smell
    Could be oil out of the seal on the back of your transfer case where
    the drive shaft connects . ( be nice to know what your driving) Could
    be flicking onto the exhaust .

    ashburton, nz - Thu 13th August 2015 10:12am (GMT)

  • Subject : Oil smell
    When you open any window of a vehicle moving at speed, there is a
    vacuum produced which sucks air in through every available gap..which
    on WD21 Terranos includes the area of the gear
    selectors/handbrake/console. The gearbox is right there, and the front
    diff vent will give off a sulphur smell when hot.
    So, to combat
    this, as Steve said, check for actual leaks from the seals of the
    transfer case, front diff and manual gearbox. Without jacking the
    vehicle up (if it is a Terrano) you should be able (depending on your
    size) to crawl under with a torch (flashlight) and have a look up into
    the console area between the seats where the gear sticks enter the
    cabin, and see if the gaiters/packing have tears or have rotted away
    through old age and heat.
    The way to combat the leak of hot smelly
    air is to put the ventilation controls on fresh air, the fan on at
    least 1, and depending on the heat, turn the a/c on as well.
    the windows wound up.
    While the fan is working it will boost
    pressure in the cabin, keeping the smells and transmission heat out.

    - NZ - Fri 14th August 2015 06:17am (GMT)

  • Subject : Oil smell
    The is oil smell every time I hit 100 km/h
    Albert Moyo
    Harare, Zimbabwe, Zimbabwe - Thu 29th October 2015 10:07am (GMT)

Subject : Manuals for WD21 Terranos...90 t0 96 including engine 2.7TD,8nn5e800wdpawnp,ndz0k

- NZ - Mon 27th July 2015 11:57am (GMT)
Subject : tie rod ends
Hi haven done alot of work on my terrano 11 1999, thought i,d change
upper front ball joint and tie rods has rubber boots were
gone,haveing purchase the parts ,ball joint easy,tie rods hard to
remove rusted on,any way got them off ,now my new tie rods are realy
tight to fit on were the castle nuts go on,are they supposed to be
this tight,can any one help,i cant get them on thanks

Paul Cullen
swansea , glmorgan, UK - Tue 21st July 2015 10:11am (GMT)
  • Subject : tie rod ends
    The taper of the ball joint has to be drawn up tight by the
    castellated nut; this takes quite a lot of effort but is perfectly
    normal..and one of the reasons you have to usually use a pickle fork
    device or a screw driven device to unseat the taper when disassembling
    If the nut winds onto the thread easily before you use it to
    draw the taper into position all should be well....
    But do ensure
    that the tie rod ends that you bought are the right ones...if the
    taper is way out, the threaded part way short, then you may have been
    sold the wrong tie rod ends.
    Compare the old with the
    new..steepness of taper, overall length of threaded part
    Parts assistants have been known to make
    After you get it all back together, get a professional
    wheel alignment done. Talk to the mechanic and ask him to run his eye
    over the work you have done?????

    NZ - Wed 22nd July 2015 11:13am (GMT)

    • Subject : tie rod ends
      Thanks for your reply think i have been sold wrong ones,will sort it
      and get tracking done thanks

      Paul Cullen
      swansea, wales, UK - Fri 24th July 2015 02:11pm (GMT)

    • Subject : tie rod ends
      Thanks for your reply think i have been sold wrong ones,will sort it
      and get tracking done thanks

      Paul Cullen
      swansea, wales, UK - Fri 24th July 2015 02:15pm (GMT)

Subject : tie rod ends
Hi haven done alot of work on my terrano 11 1999, thought i,d change
upper front ball joint and tie rods has rubber boots were
gone,haveing purchase the parts ,ball joint easy,tie rods hard to
remove rusted on,any way got them off ,now my new tie rods are realy
tight to fit on were the castle nuts go on,are they supposed to be
this tight,can any one help,i cant get them on thanks

Paul Cullen
swansea , glmorgan, UK - Tue 21st July 2015 10:07am (GMT)
  • Subject : tie rod ends
    As above..check that the parts you have been sold are identical in all
    measurements to those you took off the vehicle.
    As an example, the
    1991 Japanese WD21 Terrano can be fitted with one of three different
    drag links in the steering...and the changeover was around
    July/August/September of that year.
    Guess who has kept the
    original drag link to take into the parts sellers????

    NZ - Wed 22nd July 2015 11:20am (GMT)

Subject : nissan Terrano combination lamp
I am looking to get the wiring cable for my Nissan terrano 1998 2.7
tdi se left side combination lamp

Wolverhampton, UK - Fri 17th July 2015 09:34am (GMT)
Subject : free wheel hub
I have a Nissan d22 year 2002, I fact I have a problem with my manual
free wheeling hub gear. which is worn out and am unable to find same.
anybody can help please.thanks

port louis, mauritius - Wed 01st July 2015 11:47am (GMT)
  • Subject : free wheel hub
    If it is worn out, you will have to replace it. Go to a Nissan dealer
    and ask for a quote. If you happen to get the part number look on the
    web for overseas sites offering the same thing, perhaps for less
    money??? or go to a wrecker and see if you can buy a spare hub, or
    replace both manual hubs with aftermarket ones....

    NZ - Thu 02nd July 2015 06:00am (GMT)

    • Subject : free wheel hub



      NZ - Sun 05th July 2015 07:05pm (GMT)

      • Subject : free wheel hub

        for 2002 etc. go onto Milner website and check out what
        is available, contact company.....

        NZ - Sun 05th July 2015 07:10pm (GMT)

Subject : rear halfshaft oil seal
My rear half shaft oil seal is leaking does anybody know how to
replace the oil seal and how hard is it to replace

wayne ellis
hemsworth, west yorkshire, UK - Sat 13th June 2015 11:54am (GMT)
  • Subject : rear halfshaft oil seal
    What make, model, year, motive power, exact point of leak etc can you
    provide so we can give an answer?

    NZ - Sun 14th June 2015 03:43am (GMT)

  • Subject : rear halfshaft oil seal
    -t257434.html <
    Google is your friend.....

    - NZ - Tue 16th June 2015 06:57am (GMT)

  • Subject : rear halfshaft oil seal
    Its 1998 and its leaking in to the rear brake drums on the passenger
    side only

    wayne ellis
    hemsworth, westyorkshire, UK - Tue 16th June 2015 07:52am (GMT)

    • Subject : rear halfshaft oil seal
      Sorry its a Nissan terrano 2.7td on a 1998 plate
      wayne ellis
      hemsworth, westyorkshire, UK - Tue 16th June 2015 07:55am (GMT)

      • Subject : rear halfshaft oil seal
        Jack up and take off wheel.
        Disconnect parking brake and brake
        Look in behind the backing plate, locate the four nuts which
        hold the baffle plate to the axle housing and remove these
        Construct a puller that attaches to two of the wheel studs
        and attached to that a slide hammer (dent puller)to draw out the axle.

        The reason the axle is hard to withdraw is that where it fits
        into the diff carrier it is splined and pushed in..a friction fit.

        Once the axle is out, there is an oil seal left in the hole,
        remove it and replace with new.
        Coat seal and axle splines with
        diff oil and Carefully push the axle back into place without ripping
        your nice new oil seal and line up the holes in the axle housing with
        the studs.
        You may have to knock the axle back into place with
        dead blow hammer after all the splines are lined up with the carrier
        in the diff, and then tighten the nuts you removed when the studs go
        through the holes in the axle housing.
        Reattach the parking brake
        and tube.
        These instructions are taken directly from the pdf of
        the workshop manual which I referred to..but it appears to have been
        taken down unfortunately.

        NZ - Wed 17th June 2015 05:20am (GMT)

        • Subject : rear halfshaft oil seal
          Thanks john will take a look at the weekend when I have more time to
          do it

          wayne ellis
          hemsworth, westyorkshire, UK - Wed 17th June 2015 08:26am (GMT)

Subject : Power window switch wiring
I have a 1995 Terrano II SLX 2.7TD. I removed the cenre conso;e to
adjust the hand brake and all the wires became disconnected from the
power window switch. My manual does not have the wiring diagram for
the colours of the wires in the car. The wire colours I have are black
with 2 spade connectors; White/Red with 2 spade connectors; Red/Blue;
Red/Green; Red/White; and Black. The switch from the console has
Nissan part number is 08540-01242. Stamped on the side is 2295. Can
anyone help with the PIN number to wire colour?

Gandesa, Tarragona, ES - Tue 02nd June 2015 03:19pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Power window switch wiring
    Cant help you with your wires but pretty sure you dont adjust the
    handbrake under there >

    nz - Wed 10th June 2015 11:06am (GMT)

Subject :
Hi there,

Just got a Terrano 1990 - 2.7 Turbo diesel a month
ago. Never had a 4wd before and I am not so sure if the brakes are
working as they should for a truck.

So basically when I hit
the brakes on a flat road they work fine, lock the wheels if I want
and hold the car strongly.

The problem happens when downhill.
If I am going down for more than 500 metres and I am pushing the
brakes constantly they start loosing efficiency and sometimes the
brake light in the dashboard flashes. I can still brake, but I have to
push harder and the pedal does not go all the way down anymore. As an
example in that situation I can't lock the wheels cause the brakes are
not efficient enough.

Is that how it suppose to behave on a
truck? Loose efficiency when used non-stop for a period of time?

wellington, wellignton, UK - Mon 01st June 2015 11:24pm (GMT)
  • Subject :
    Your truck weighs about 1800kg and requires a lot of braking effort to
    You probably have disc brakes on all 4 wheels? If not you
    will have discs at the front, and drums at the rear.
    All types of
    brakes will lose efficiency when activated for a long period of time.
    Google brake pad boiling gases etc.
    As the pads become hotter, the
    surface of the pads where it touches and rubs the disc actually boils
    away as a gas. Gas produces little friction..braking effect goes

    When going downhill, select a lower gear,
    especially in an automatic gearbox vehicle..say click off the
    overdrive, which then leaves you in 3rd gear,then when the hill gets
    steeper, select 2nd gear, when it gets really steep use the brakes to
    drop your speed down to 10mph or less and select 1st..this will hold
    the vehicle to a low speed even on a very steep hill.
    Yes, the
    engine might rev to almost 4000rpm, so what? It won't blow apart, it
    uses hardly any diesel fuel, and it will rapidly cool the radiator and
    engine down.
    If you really can't stand the noise brake hard to a
    comfortable speed or below, release the brakes so they can cool, and
    let the engine slowly rev up again.Repeat ad nauseum.

    Go back
    up through the gears as the incline decreases.

    Use the gears
    when decelerating downhill, and keep the brakes in

    Yes, Google "brake fade" and learn what happens with
    continuous riding of the brakes....

    Ultimately you can lose
    all brakes when the brake fluid gets so hot that it boils the water
    which invariably is sucked into the fluid because common brake fluids
    attract water over time, and vehicle brake systems have vent holes in
    the reservoir caps which allows water laden air in; this forms
    droplets which fall to the lowest point in the brake circuits...the
    wheel calipers.
    The steam produced inside the caliper is
    compressible, and your foot goes to the brakes.
    you have crashed, the fluid cools, the steam becomes water and
    voila...the brakes will work perfectly again for the crash

    So, every 2 years drain the brake fluid out of
    the reservoir by sucking it out, refill with new fluid, get a friend
    to help gently and partially pump the brake pedal,(put some wood under
    the pedal between it and the floor to restrict the movement to the
    area in the master cylinder that normal braking uses) and crack each
    bleeder at each caliper, starting at the furthest away from the
    reservoir, and pump new fluid through all the brake system to ensure
    that the fluid has the least possible accumulation of water.Keep the
    reservoir topped up all the time so no air bubbles get in the

    Google hygroscopic brake fluid, and flushing brake
    lines, and the various types of brake pads that work well either when
    cold, slightly heated, or for out and out racing situations..which
    only work when hot...and which are definitely not recommended for
    streeet use........

    NZ - Fri 05th June 2015 10:51am (GMT)

    • Subject :
      Would this model have a brake booster on the back of the alternator
      that could be faulty ? Sounds more like what you have said above john

      nz - Fri 05th June 2015 01:29pm (GMT)

      • Subject :
        Yes, Steve, the vacuum pump is on the rear of the alternator on this
        model.Master cyliner, reservoir and booster on the firewall in front
        of the driver. I was just going on the symptoms..OK braking
        (sufficient to skid wheels) on level ground...bugger all after riding
        the brakes for 500 metres downhill. I hope he doesn't die before he
        sorts his brake technique out....

        NZ - Sat 06th June 2015 12:14am (GMT)

        • Subject :
          Yes brakes are quite important . He said the brake light was coming on
          when pumping the brakes . This would normally mean low brake fluid .
          In our old mistral if you pumped the brakes really hard at an idol the
          brake light would come on and an alarm would sound when it lost all
          the brake boost pressure . Once you stopped pumping the brakes the
          pressure built up again really quickly and light and buzzer would go
          off . Never did it under normal driving conditions .

          nz - Sat 06th June 2015 01:15am (GMT)

          • Subject :
            So the Mistral lost vacuum quicker than it could be built up at idle
            and with high pressure on the brake pedal...which would make
            sense...and could also be part of the problem with him riding the
            brakes going downhill...he would run out of vacuum assist, because the
            engine would only be idling, and therefore the pedal would only go
            down a little, and would need 60% more effort to depress, which would
            feel like his brakes had gone away.
            Another damn good
            reason to select a lower gear..that speeds up the engine and produces
            more vacuum, perhaps overcoming some of his crap braking
   least until his pads fade or his brake fluid
            Nice one Steve....

            NZ - Sat 06th June 2015 05:37am (GMT)

Subject : airflow
previous post I forgot to say vehicle is a terrano sport late 2003
villemain, france - Mon 25th May 2015 03:04pm (GMT)
  • Subject : airflow
    Has your vehicle thrown an error code? If not is there anything which
    leads you to believe that there was originally a resistor there from
    My advice would be, if it all works well, leave it

    NZ - Tue 26th May 2015 11:02am (GMT)

Subject : air flow meter
Hi can anybody tell me about the air flow meter I have removed mine to
clean it and noticed that the small resister is missing can this be
purchased separately or can any one tell what the capacity of the

villemain, france - Mon 25th May 2015 03:00pm (GMT)
Subject : Terrano front end bounce
Hi. I have recently purchased a Terrano which is on an 03 plate. I
have noticed that the front end is very soft and bouncy on the
suspension and I am wondering if it is the shockers or can anyone
advise me if there are any bushes which may need replacing as I have
noticed it is on torsion bars and not springs (sorry for any mis

Martin ~Stowell
Bradford, West Yorkshire, UK - Tue 19th May 2015 07:08pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Terrano front end bounce
    I am on my 3rd set of front shocks on my Japanese WD21 Terrano which
    is now 24 years old with 212,000 kilometres.
    The original shocks
    got to be just like yours, more bounce to the ounce and more slam to
    the gram at 100,000km, (62,000 miles) and I replaced them with Munroe
    4x4 Adventurer shocks.These lasted another 100,000km.
    My advice
    is to replace your shocks and their bushes (which should come with
    them) as soon as possible and then check the ride quality.
    Do the
    rear shocks as well, especially if the vehicle tends to skip the rear
    end sideways on gravel corrugations..a sure sign of worn out
    If you get creaks, groans, slams or bangs sounding like a
    large piece of metal is loose when going round corners, replace all
    the front sway bar (anti roll bar) bushes including link bushes with
    polyurethane ones.
    If you feel or can see that the front
    suspension has sagged with age, (less clearance between tyre and
    fender) follow the torsion bars back until you can see the adjusters.
    Raise the front end of the vehicle off the ground, loosen the lock
    nut, give the adjusters 3 full turns each side and lower the vehicle
    back down and go for a ride to allow it to settle back down. This
    tweaking can only be done up until a certain point, and then you risk
    snapping the bar because it becomes restricted in it's travel. Regard
    the torsion bars as wound up springs......
    See also "Pathfinder
    death wobble" in regards to the bushes in the rear suspension links
    which locate the rear axle to the body.
    As far as i am concerned,
    having done all the above, this falls under normal maintenance and
    makes the vehicle behave in an "as new" way.

    NZ - Fri 22nd May 2015 11:39am (GMT)

Subject : 95 td27 r20 mistral
hi i have a 95 nissan mistral td27 turbo i have an issue were all of a
sudden after replacing starter motor alternator and battery.what
happens is when you drive off normal its rattly and boggs until boost
comes on then it apears to dump alot of black smoke and then its fine
til you come to a stop and it all starts again it seems to be fine
when cold ?any ideas please would be good im no mechanic but have a
fair idea of what im doing

christchurch, canterbury, nz - Sun 12th April 2015 08:06am (GMT)
  • Subject : 95 td27 r20 mistral
    What caused the suddden replacement of most of the electrical system?
    Christchurch NZ - Mon 13th April 2015 06:23am (GMT)

    • Subject : 95 td27 r20 mistral
      long story short batery wouldnt turn over starter properly so got new
      alternator and batery and then starter motor stopped so i guess usual
      wear n tear .

      UK - Mon 13th April 2015 07:02am (GMT)

      • Subject : 95 td27 r20 mistral
        Dave, go to a technician with an OBD2 scanner and read the trouble
        codes on the computer. Then you will know where to start.

        NZ - Tue 14th April 2015 08:28am (GMT)

        • Subject : 95 td27 r20 mistral
          thanks john. it is my understanding that the td27b turbo motor has no
          ecu i could be there any other solutions i could try thanks

          Christchurch - Wed 15th April 2015 03:00am (GMT)

          • Subject : 95 td27 r20 mistral
            These guys seem to think they can sell you one if you need


            Unless your engine has been
            replaced with a straight mechanical one out of an earlier vehicle you
            should find one in there.

            NZ - Thu 16th April 2015 07:11am (GMT)

            • Subject : 95 td27 r20 mistral
              thanks again john. have just double cheked it all appears to be what
              you stated the only thing is it looks as though it has had an engine
              swap .?????? were to from here im doing a change of glow plugs today
              and then il start the process of eliminiation.thanks dave as much
              advice as possible would be great.

              Christchurch, New Zealand - Fri 17th April 2015 12:37am (GMT)

              • Subject : 95 td27 r20 mistral
                By all means check glow plugs and replace if necessary, but if these
                symptoms reoccur no matter what temperature the engine is at, then
                there seems to be a problem relating to the amount of fuel or air
                being fed to the engine.
                Check air filter and replace if
                Trace and check all air inlet piping looking for
                possible collapse points, tears etc.
                Replace fuel filter, (fill
                new one with clean new fuel before tightening it into housing) trace
                fuel line round to injector pump, remove banjo bolt inlet to pump,
                carefully pull out small gauze filter that should be there and clean
                same, use primer to squirt fuel through, check flow for fine bubbles
                (sometimes diaphragm on filter primer tears and induces air into
                system), then put it all back together again.Pump that primer until it
                goes solid while checking for leaks, start and rev engine in park to
                2500rpm and hold it there for a minute so that any trace of air will
                be gone, then drive and see if that helps.

                NZ - Fri 17th April 2015 07:10pm (GMT)

Subject :

- UK - Fri 03rd April 2015 10:38pm (GMT)
Subject : rear brake cylinders
Hi does any one no which are the write rear brake cylinders for my
nissan terrano 11 2.7 tdi estate ,5 door year 1999 thanks

Paul Cullen
swansea, wales, UK - Fri 20th March 2015 03:47pm (GMT)
Subject : rear brake cylinders
Hi does any one no which are the write rear brake cylinders for my
nissan terrano 11 2.7 tdi estate ,5 door year 1999 thanks

Paul Cullen
swansea, wales, UK - Fri 20th March 2015 03:27pm (GMT)
Subject :
where is the auotmatic gearbox ecu on a 1996 D21 terrano/navara
- NZ - Thu 12th March 2015 04:36am (GMT)
Subject : mistral 97 warning light for battery a/t oil temp and another one
Hey I was driving my mistral the other day and 3 warning lights all
come on at once for battery a/t oil temp and another I think cooling
and was wondering if anyone had any ideas to what this could be

Auckland, new Zealand - Sun 01st March 2015 02:56am (GMT)
Subject : 99 Pathfinder
a 99 nissan pathfinder stalls sometimes when driving in 2wd but always
works perfectly in 4wd. What could be the issues im facing

Marky D
Roachville, NB, Canada - Tue 03rd February 2015 04:57pm (GMT)
  • Subject : 99 Pathfinder
    More info needed. What engine? What transmission? What happens/what
    conditions are you running in when the stall happens? Accelerating, or
    braking? Hot or cold? Wet or dry? Turning/driving straight? Fuel level
    in tank? uphill/downhill? Overrun?

    NZ - Sat 07th February 2015 11:30am (GMT)

Subject : qd 32
John , Been a while as have had computer issues . We were away over
xmas and on the way home found that if you went to pass a car or clime
a hill the auto would chop down to 3rd as it should , then the engine
would pull strong untill exactly 3500rpm then it was like the
governers were switched on and would not rev past that point . Lots of
black smoke as well . Take your foot off the gas for a bit and slow
down and then give her the jandal again and yet again pulls well to
that same rpm mark .When driving normally it is fine . It dose this
when overdrive is on or off. Fuel filters air filters all good .
Sounds more like engine management do you think ??


ashburton, nz - Sat 31st January 2015 09:47am (GMT)
  • Subject : qd 32
    Sorry thought my post had not been put up then found your reply
    nz - Sat 31st January 2015 09:49am (GMT)

Subject : Nissan Patrol ZD 30
Can somebody perhaps help with questions I have on the ZD 30
I have a 2001 Patrol 3.0 with the ZD 30 motor. The motor
has blown and I have been offered a ZD 30 from a Neo/Terrano. Are they
compatable and will it just bolt on. Any help will be highly

Dave Faddel
George, South Africa - Fri 30th January 2015 11:02am (GMT)
  • Subject : Nissan Patrol ZD 30
    Theoretically they should be compatible..but you will have to
    physically compare them to be sure. Are they the same year? Have you
    got any friends at a Nissan workshop that you can ask???

    NZ - Sat 31st January 2015 04:37am (GMT)

    • Subject : Nissan Patrol ZD 30
      Thanks for the reply. I see the top plastic cover states that the
      "new" motor was salvaged from a Neo, I believe around a 2006 model.On
      the specs web pages I see it is slightly down on power but a full 50Nm
      down on torque. My concern however is type of diesel pump and basic
      control system. The Patrol's is said to be not too good hence the
      nickname of "Hand Grenade" This is mostly blamed on the turbo control
      system and pressure sensors. This is of concern to me as I don't know
      if the electronics are compatible, is it bolt in or do I now have to
      sit with engine management problems.

      Dave Faddel
      George, South Africa, South Africa - Sat 31st January 2015 06:20pm (GMT)

      • Subject : Nissan Patrol ZD 30
        That is why I strongly suggest inquiries with a NISSAN
        MECHANIC/WORKSHOP...the chance of stumbling across someone on the www
        who has done this swap out/in and has posted the answers is very slim.

        NZ - Sat 07th February 2015 11:34am (GMT)

Subject :
John Been a while as computer was down and have finally got sorted .
Away at xmas and on the way home found that our terrano when you chop
down out of overdrive into 3rd and give her the jandal the motor will
pull well untill 3500 rpm then it like the governers cut in and wont
pull any more revs or accelerate at all . Lots of black smoke when
this happens . Now I dont drive at hogh revs all the time so this is
not a problem 99 % of the time . No issues at lower rev range under
Possibly engine sensor ? No engine check light on so would
a code show up on a scanner ?


ashburton, nz - Fri 30th January 2015 10:39am (GMT)
  • Subject :
    Steve, last time that happened to me the fix was to replace the fuel
    filter. It was full of black crud probably algae...but it was the
    original Japanese filter and was 90k and 9 years old! How long was
    your Terrano off the road sittuing a shed or out in the
    open?? and was the fuel tank full or only partially full? (think
    expansion /contraction and water condensation in tank) Can't say we
    have had all that much rain lately so probably not rain water in the
    Can you think of any other reason not enough fuel is
    getting to the injectors at times of high demand? e.g air leak,
    diaphragm holed on fuel filter pump etc etc?

    NZ - Sat 31st January 2015 04:35am (GMT)

    • Subject :
      Did the fuel filter last november just part of a service . Is shed
      stored and gets a run probably every couple of weeks . Fuel is from
      work and is filtered with very good filters as all our tractors and
      combine are common rail . Its more like an engine sensor telling the
      engine not to rev above 3500rpm .Only thing I have not done in ages is
      clean the MAF sensor . If it was starving for fuel would there be lots
      of black smoke ??

      ashburton, nz - Sat 31st January 2015 09:59am (GMT)

      • Subject :
        My one did smoke something chronic with the clogged filter. I think
        your idea of cleaning the MAF would be a good start if it has not been
        done in a while.

        NZ - Mon 02nd February 2015 12:01am (GMT)

        • Subject :
          Problem seems to have gone away by itself . Strange really .

          ashburton, nz - Wed 15th April 2015 06:42am (GMT)

          • Subject :
            John . Finally worked out what was happening . The flexi pipe between
            the air cleaner and the turbo I found last week had split and torn
            right beside the turbo hose clamp . We think that when it split is
            when it when it stopped dying at 3500rpm . Before that we think the
            pipe was collapsing as it was really soft and restricting the air flow
            . I only replaced this pipe about 2 years ago . $180 for new one from
            d and e nissan or $ 70 including post from ausy . Probably should of
            gone genuine but big difference in price .

            nz - Sat 09th May 2015 07:55am (GMT)

            • Subject :
              Any thoughts on putting a spiral steel spring inside the rubber
              flexible pipe to stop collapse in the future? I remember the last time
              you had this pipe split..was it in the same place again? Obviously a
              bad fault with them...and I agree with your paying $70 from Australia
              rather than $180 from the Nissan dealer, especially if this may well
              happen again in two years' time!
              Hopefully the 'dusting" didn't
              affect the you have a MAF? It may need cleaning again???

              NZ - Fri 22nd May 2015 01:35pm (GMT)

              • Subject :
                Hi john . Yes we cleaned the MAF when we were trying to sort out the
                first problem when it would not rev out, and the pipe split right
                beside the turbo intake so any dirty air was not going past the MAF .

                The new rubber flex pipe is quite a bit firmer than the old one
                and the old one had split in a different place . I know someone round
                here who had the same pipe on a navara with the zd30 motor and didnt
                notice until the motor let go . Several grand later....
                sure we only did a couple of trips to town with no gravel work before
                we noticed the split. I would imagine there are lots of nissans out
                there with this pipe split and not really visible unless you actually
                inspect the pipe physically with your hand . So nissan owners keep an
                eye on this !!!
                Cheers Steve

                nz - Sun 24th May 2015 09:39am (GMT)

Subject : Nissan Terrano upgrade to 6 speed G/box
Can anyone tell me what 6 speed gearbox will fit my nissan Terrano 3.0

Thurso, Caithness, UK - Thu 08th January 2015 05:09pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Nissan Terrano upgrade to 6 speed G/box
    You can make anything fit by throwing enough money and time at it.
    What are you trying to do? It's not a sports car, so a sixth
    (overdrive) gear won't help it handle better at higher speeds. The low
    gear might also not be as low as the gear you now have, so that won't
    help off road...what are you trying to do???

    NZ - Sun 18th January 2015 09:12am (GMT)

    • Subject : Nissan Terrano upgrade to 6 speed G/box
      I am simply trying to make it more fuel economic. I did try and locate
      an overdrive unit for it without success, so the question of the 6
      speed box came into my mind. Can you help??

      Sandy Bennie
      Thurso, , Caithness, UK - Sun 18th January 2015 04:32pm (GMT)

      • Subject : Nissan Terrano upgrade to 6 speed G/box
        See my first answer. The Terrano is a four wheel drive which weighs
        more than the average vehicle. It takes energy to move mass..the
        heavier vehicle can never be as economical as a lighter one unless you
        change various already have a diesel engine, it is
        turbocharged..that's two factors.
        If you build in some other
        gearbox you will alter the overall gearing and may get better fuel
        economy on a long trip at steady speeds. But do you use the vehicle
        for towing a caravan or a horse float? If so, will the gearing suit
        that task? Most 6 speed gearboxes are manual..are you swapping out an
        existing manual or trying to convert from auto to manual? In which
        case it will require a new flywheel etc as well. Your vehicle has a
        computer to run the electronic fuel injection pump, and an ECU to run
        the transmission as well if it is an auto gearbox.
        You will be
        better off deciding to sell the Terrano and buying an economical small
        car that is set up to get maximum fuel economy..

        NZ - Mon 19th January 2015 11:33pm (GMT)

Subject :
I live in east timor and i have a Nissan Regulus , 1999/ 2000
The car when i drive it s good but if i stop very fast, like a
emergency brake the engine stop ,,,,,,
Here doesn t exist
technical information about this car and also don t have spare
Someone can help me ?
automatic gearbox?
Thank s

- UK - Wed 19th November 2014 05:17am (GMT)
  • Subject :
    Noberto, have you just bought the vehicle?
    Has this behaviour just
    Is this the only time the engine quits..after an
    emergency stop?
    From what speed?

    If the vehicle is
    above 60kmh, the auto trans "locks up" in "fourth" or "overdrive" so
    that it becomes almost a manual transmisson..and if the lockup doesn't
    release for whatever reason the auto box won't automatically
    compensate for the rapid slowdown and will not change into first gear
    by the time you come to a stop. That may cause a stall.

    trouble codes or check engine lights show up?
    Does the vehicle
    start immediately after the stall if you switch the key off first,
    then restart..or can you restart the engine without turning the key
    completely back to off or acc?

    However, if the vehicle is
    below 60 kmh it should be in the lower gears anyway, and the lockup
    should not have bee..or should not be activated.

    So you can
    test this theory by emergency stops in "D" (drive) over 60 kmh as
    normal with overdrive on;
    and then other stops with overdrive
    "locked out" with the button on the gearstick from above 60 kmh; then
    below 60 kmh, followed by stops with gear held manually in 2 and in

    Any trouble codes or check engine lights show

    Do you have access to a mechanic with a scan tool who can
    check if any trouble codes have been recorded on the OBD2

    If the mechanic can ride with you and have the scan
    tool plugged in while you do these stops it may show a momentary

    as I have said many times before, dropping the pan on
    the transmission and replacing the filter, refilling with new fluid
    and flushing the old fluid out by pumping out the old while replacing
    it with new can have a very good effect on the transmission..and may
    be the cheapest cure for it's ailments... see other previous posts on
    this subject and look up the you tube videos on how to do it's not hard to do....

    NZ - Wed 19th November 2014 08:38am (GMT)

    • Subject :
      If you can send more technical information about this car, i
      appreciate because here we don t have nothing. Sorry.
      From japan
      Nissan dealer say me this car it s only for japan and so, the manual s
      are in japanese language. But i just understand english and

      Norberto Batista
      Dili , East Timor - Thu 20th November 2014 04:15pm (GMT)

  • Subject :
    Just a few references that I found after writing my first

    section 17, Page AT-108

    - NZ - Wed 19th November 2014 11:53am (GMT)

    • Subject :
      Ei brother thank s for the information.
      1 let me tell you that is
      the first time some one tell me that . Thank s allot
      Portugal... i m portuguese i have a Jeep GCherokee , automatic , it a
      gearbox RE44 , american , and no mather the speed i stop , the engine
      never stop.
      Here, in east timor i don t have access to a software
      of nissan regulus, but i will try answer all your questions
      s happanen below 60km h ,,,,
      I change engine oil and filter , air
      filter , oil and filter in autogerabox, im surprised because in
      mechanic tell me it s around 16 liters
      Before this car also stop
      the engine when i stop in traffic lights and i put the gerabox in N
      waiting for the green light , then.,..when i pass to D some times the
      engine stop.
      After i go to several mechanics and spend allot of
      money , i found a portuguese mechanic can help me
      all the oils
      are new,,, the injectors are clean ,
      I fell the relanti of this
      car are very down, just around 650 rpm, it s supposed to be around
      700....750 rpm,,,,
      Only when i turn ON the air com the rel anti go
      up to 750 rpm/ 800 rpm
      Before i also turn up a little the
      accelerator pedal , because he have a regulation.But continue the same
      I m almost want broken this car belive me!
      It s more
      easy to me communicate it you by mail or facebook , can we change that
      Thank you so much

      Norberto Batista
      Dili , East Timor - Thu 20th November 2014 03:18pm (GMT)

      • Subject :
        You have done all the things that are the easy fixes..except one that
        I did not mention before..and which slipped my mind until now. These
        vehicles seem to have a problem with the grounding straps that run
        from the engine to the body, and from the body to the negative
        terminal of the battery. Just to make sure, unbolt these ground
        straps, examine them for corrosion or breakage, test them with a
        multimeter while twisting them and turning and pulling on them (to
        test that there is no internal corrosion or breaks in the wire),
        including the one from the gearbox to the chassis (if there is one)
        and sandpaper the attachment points until bright metal shows. Use an
        anti-seize grease and re bolt them all down tight. The electronic
        controls for the engine and transmission rely on the ground wires for
        the electrical path back to the battery..and if the ground wires are
        corroded either inside the wires themselves or at the attachment
        point, the electricity will not flow. Since when you put the car in
        drive after being in neutral the engine and gearbox "twist" under
        torque, the wires may be disturbed just enough for the loss of
        electrical contact..and the same when you brake hard. It would be
        like the key being turned off....

        NZ - Fri 21st November 2014 03:50am (GMT)

        • Subject :
          I m doing all you tell me

          My last suspicious is the fuel
          injection pump.

          Here i don t have dealer i don t have
          technical support , so please in case i need can you find i injection
          pump to me me from new zeland ? I transfer the money for your account.
          I use ANZ bank so i think it s not complicate to transfer money for
          you !

          Thank s

          Norberto Batista
          Dili , East Timor , UK - Wed 03rd December 2014 07:34am (GMT)

Subject :
Nissan Regulus
Norberto Batista
Dili , East Timor , East Timor - Wed 19th November 2014 05:14am (GMT)
Subject : Looking at 1994 Terrano II / Mistral
Looking at buying a 1994 Mistral Sport (Terrano II) here in the UK.
2.7TD Automatic. The underbody looks pretty good for the age (i.e.
not much corrosion). However, there does appear to a slight weeping
of oil from some of the pipes from the tube to the engine. Is this
normal? Also revving the engine produces a bit of black smoke.
Although the seller did mention that the vehicle had been stood around
on his drive for a while? Anything else I should look out for on this

- UK - Sun 16th November 2014 08:25pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Looking at 1994 Terrano II / Mistral
    The slight leaking of oil is from the compressed air from the turbo
    going through those pipes to the intake valves of the engine. The air
    entering the turbo charger comes from two sources; out of the air
    filter, and partway along the hose leading to the turbo intake is a
    small hoses that leads to the positive crankcase ventilation valve on
    the valve cover. This small hose sucks oil misted air from the engine
    keeping a mild negative pressure on the engine and helps to keep the
    oil from leaking out from the valve cover, sump and any other place
    with a gasket or seal. In the old days it used to go straight out
    into a road draft tube, an open pipe pointed at the road surface below
    the engine..before we all got PC and sucked that waste back into the
    engine to be burnt up in the cylinders and poked out the
    Anyhoo, when oil mist plus air is pressurised it tries
    to escape where ever it can, and so it leaks out at hose joints
    between rubber and metal no matter how tight you wind the
    Just wipe the outside every so often and ignore it for the
    As for the excess black smoke on acceleration, the instant
    you plant foot on the accelerator the injection system pumps lots more
    diesel through the injectors..more that the turbo can produce air to
    provide the correct ratio for clean burning. As you probably noticed,
    as soon as equilibrium is reached, the smoke disappears.
    he other
    cause for excessive black smoke may be crudded-up injectors where the
    spray pattern is disrupted by carbon.
    There is lots of reading on
    this WWW about all those subjects.
    These vehicles are long
    lasting, especially the engines if maintained well. As with all
    diesels, change the oil often as the vacuum pump on the back of the
    alternator that produces the vacuum for the power brakes needs clean
    oil to continue to function well. You don't need synthetics, just a
    good 15/40w diesel oil with lots of nice detergents in it. The oil
    will go black within 100kms (diesels are dirty inside) but will last
    5000kms (3,000 miles) before needing a change. The autos last well if
    the fluid is changed every 50k or so. if using it to tow, instal an
    extra trans fluid cooler in line with the one in the bottom of the
    radiator to cope with the extra heat, and tow with the overdrive
    lockup off.

    NZ - Sun 16th November 2014 11:53pm (GMT)

    • Subject : Looking at 1994 Terrano II / Mistral
      Thanks for the reply. I suppose I'm used to the more modern direct
      injection diesels which don't (or at least aren't supposed to) produce
      much visible emissions when revving the engine. I'll have to give the
      Terrano another consideration when shopping around this week.

      UK - Mon 17th November 2014 09:57am (GMT)

      • Subject : Looking at 1994 Terrano II / Mistral
        The modern diesel also has a particulate filter in the exhaust, and
        may need "blue fluid" (urea) added as well to purify the exhaust.

        But have you seen the intake manifold of a modern direct
        injection diesel which always has an EGR (exhaust gas recirculation)

        The huge amount of very fine carbon particles
        produced by direct injection when mixed with the oil misted air from
        the crankcase/valve cover form a horrendous black hard sooty clag all
        the way to the back of the intake valves....

        Have a read on
        the internet re blocking off the EGR valves...

        NZ - Wed 19th November 2014 08:48am (GMT)

Subject : nissan diesel patrol
HI can someone help me please when I drive all seems good until I go
over 2000 rpm then a fan kicks,Only as I accelerate and it goes over
the 2000 I can turn the inside fan on and off it makes no difference
and black smoke is starting to appear out the back now does anyone
have a clue please?

Debby kendall
Seville East, vic, australia - Mon 10th November 2014 04:44am (GMT)
  • Subject : nissan diesel patrol
    I am trying to decipher what you are telling me is the
    The fan kicking that a loud roaring sound from
    the engine compartment? Open your bonnet when the engine is cold and
    OFF. Check if you can rotate the white fan blades on the end of the
    water pump by hand. How difficult is it to turn the there
    much resistance? Do you have an auxiliary electric radiator fan fitted
    as well as the engine driven one?

    Otherwise read up about the
    operation of thermally activated fan clutches and their operation, and
    go from there.

    What temperature shows on the temp gauge when
    the fan kicks in..over half way?

    When was the last time you
    took the radiator out and gave it to a radiator shop to take the top
    and bottom tanks off and have the tubes rodded out?

    Could you
    get back to us with the results and we can go from there?

    NZ - Mon 17th November 2014 12:03am (GMT)

Subject : CO Emissions
Hi my 1998 Terrano 2.4i has just failed its test on CO emissions it
appears to be ok on tick over but when revved to 2000rpm it goes over
the limit, have changed the O2 sensor and the cat and the reading is
still the same, have checked the air filter and changed the oil but
seem to be getting no where any one got any pointers to what may be
causing the problem.

- UK - Wed 05th November 2014 07:55pm (GMT)
  • Subject : CO Emissions
    try fual addetive in tank like fual
    injector cleaner redax

    also before adding this cleaner
    add petrol with low
    emissions more exspensive but worth trying it my be your injectors
    that need cleaning give it a try wont cost alot and will do it good
    and before you take it back for emissions give it a good run out when
    you have done all the above it should pass

    MANCHESTER, uk, UK - Thu 06th November 2014 07:01pm (GMT)

  • Subject : CO Emissions
    try fual addetive in tank like fual
    injector cleaner redax

    also before adding this cleaner
    add petrol with low
    emissions more exspensive but worth trying it my be your injectors
    that need cleaning give it a try wont cost alot and will do it good
    and before you take it back for emissions give it a good run out when
    you have done all the above it should pass

    MANCHESTER, uk, UK - Thu 06th November 2014 07:01pm (GMT)

Subject : nissan terrano down pipe
how do you remove front exhaust down pipe

- uk, UK - Wed 05th November 2014 07:35pm (GMT)
Subject : 1994 gq patrol 12v nz new
Hi iv gt a problem in my rear diff.Has gt a turbo on 35s and a tough
dog setup currently having problems with rear diff that has moved
foward to one side is this a common problem??

Karam Braddick
levin, nz, new zealand - Mon 03rd November 2014 09:07pm (GMT)
  • Subject : 1994 gq patrol 12v nz new <


    Once you have read these and other posts you will probably
    find that your lift has screwed with the radius arm and panhard rod
    settings, (as you lift the panhard rod in particular becomes too short
    and will "pull" on the axle) and you will need adjustable arms/rods to
    get the geometry sorted.
    Note that for 35's you need to move the
    front diff forward for clearance either with spacers or drop
    Is this an off road only truck?
    For on road, legal in
    NZ? Certified???
    Best find out before you go on road.
    tell your insurance company too?

    NZ - Tue 04th November 2014 09:59am (GMT)

Subject : 1995 nissan mistral 2.7
Hi. I live in Barbados and need to get a turbocharger for a 1995
Nissan Mistral 2.7D. Can anyone direct me to where I may buy


Basil Graham
St. Michael , Barbados, UK - Fri 31st October 2014 06:54pm (GMT)
  • Subject : 1995 nissan mistral 2.7
    Pick a country most likely to have these parts available, eg UK,
    Japan, New Zealand. Use Google to find out who deals in either second
    hand parts or new. Contact them. Order the part. Make payment as
    required by the seller. Wait for part to arrive. Install
    P.S. The 2.7D is a normally aspirated turbo. The
    2.7TD is a TURBO diesel Do you know what you want???

    NZ - Sun 02nd November 2014 08:52am (GMT)

Subject : Brake problem
Hi can anybody help!!!I have a Nissan Terrano 2 2.7TDI LWB
When i brake there is a grinding noise as if its metal to
metal and i feel the rumble through my brake pedal and the pedal feels
quite hard then when i take my foot off the pedal and press again its
ok and stops me straight away. i have replaced new discs and pads the
flexi hoses on each side were replaced last year my friend has done a
live diagnostic check and no faults are showing when i brake it only
happens now and again. Will be grateful for any help you can give

Blyth, Northumberland, UK - Wed 29th October 2014 05:06pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Brake problem
    When does the grinding occur..only the first time you brake after the
    vehicle sits overnight? ...this could be a light surface rust from
    overnight dew being ground off by the first application of
    Check with a torch(flashlight) early each morning before
    you take off for work and see if there is rust there....
    likelihood for rusting increases if the replacement rotors were
    aftermarket rather than OEM Nissan.

    If it happens all through
    the day, then it won't be rust (unless the rotors are really crappy
    cast iron).
    Which side grinds the most?
    Is it Front or back
    Is there a possibility that there is a small stone trapped
    in between either the splash shield or the calipers and rotor?
    replacing all the brake components and no doubt lubricating the pins
    upon which the calipers slide it leaves only rust or something that
    has attached itself since all new components were installed and
    whatever it is is along for the ride until you find it and fix it...

    NZ - Fri 31st October 2014 05:42am (GMT)

    • Subject : Brake problem
      Cheers John
      The disc and pads have only done about 50 miles so
      there is no rust on the discs the problems is there on and off all
      day its feels like the front brakes it shudders on the brake pedal
      and a loud grinding noise when i brake and i replaced the shoes on the
      rear about 2 months ago. Do you think it maybe one of the front brake
      hoses may be faulty and is collapsing internally even though they are
      only about 18 months old. It’s a pain in the butt as i cannot take
      the caravan away until this problem is fixed.
      Cheers Rob.

      Blyth, Northumberland, UK - Fri 31st October 2014 12:26pm (GMT)

      • Subject : Brake problem
        When you took off the old discs, did you clean very thoroughly the
        mating surface between the new disc and the hub. If not, rust on the
        seating here can make the disc wobble.
        Do you have ABS? If so,
        take the front wheels off and clean thoroughly around the sensor as
        any metallic particles including a build up of rust can cause
        Check that the sensor has not been pushed out of
        position by rust..too big a gap can cause problems.
        I come back to
        a very pertinent point..these problems only started after new discs
        and pads were fitted.
        Did you check the dimensions of the new
        discs in relation to the old ones, e.g. diameter of centre hole, total
        thickness of discs etc?
        Did you fit them yourself?
        Did you let
        the calipers hang from the brake hose, or perhaps did you disturb the
        ABS sensor or it's wire?
        Were the discs and pads from Nissan, or a
        What hardness rating on the pads?
        Did you follow
        instructions re breaking them in?
        Did you ever bleed all the old
        fluid out of the brakes so fresh fluid flows throughout the system?

        Have you checked wheel bearing play and wear? Ever repacked the
        front wheel bearings?
        If all else fails, it's time to take the
        problem to an expert to have him look over what you have done. He may
        spot the problem within seconds...that allows you to go on holiday

        NZ - Sun 02nd November 2014 08:46am (GMT)

        • Subject : Brake problem





          NZ - Sun 02nd November 2014 09:27am (GMT)

Subject : NISSAN 2.7 TD 1995

MANCHESTER, UK, UK - Sun 26th October 2014 09:13am (GMT)
  • Subject : NISSAN 2.7 TD 1995
    Remove left front wheel after jacking up left side and resting vehicle
    on jack stands and go in through the rubber curtain that covers the
    hole in the inner you do when you replace the oil
    if you don't usually even replace the oil filter, bite the
    bullet and take the vehicle to an exhaust place where they can fix
    f-ups like broken studs, screwed nuts, replace gaskets etc on
    Doing that enables you to drive in and drive out......

    NZ - Fri 31st October 2014 05:49am (GMT)

    • Subject : NISSAN 2.7 TD 1995
      so front end jacked up wheel removed
      then rubber inspection
      curtain removed
      from inner wheel arch.

      now then there is
      3 studs holding down pipe to manifold so undue this nuts then under
      jeep unduo 2 studs from centre pipe so which way will down pipe be

      manchester, UK, UK - Sun 02nd November 2014 10:51am (GMT)

  • Subject : NISSAN 2.7 TD 1995

    azme mrewat
    nazareth, israel nazareth, UK - Thu 11th December 2014 04:04pm (GMT)

Subject : Nissan Terrano 3 litre
I have a 04 Nissan Terrano 3L manual, Turbo diesel. When in normal
drive the vehicle runs well. When I put it into 4WD high and worse
still into 4WD low the vehicle has a very heavy drag on the steering.
It seems to be fighting against the steering when I try to turn the
wheel and there is a nasty "clunk" which shakes the whole back axle.
I have checked the oil and have put in the correct limited slip-diff
oil but it is no better. When I drained the diff.oil I took the cover
off the diff. and there was no sign of any damage inside. The only
other thing I can say there are 245x17 tyres all round instead of the
normal 235 tyres. But surely this wouldn`t make a difference as they
are all the same size. Any ideas please?

Wrexham, N. Wales, UK - Thu 09th October 2014 03:07pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Nissan Terrano 3 litre
    You have "selectable 4WD".
    This means that when you select 4wd
    the entire drive line both front and back is sent the same amount of
    power from the transfer case. Any attempt to turn the front wheels
    means one front wheel is going to have to try to cover more ground
    (the "outside of the curve" wheel, and the inner wheel will cover less
    ground (fewer rotations). The drive coming to the front wheels from
    the transfer case will not change. Somehow the front diff has to
    This "coping" is the drag you feel.
    If you also have a
    limited slip diff in the front axle,(not very common because the
    "fight" is even worse, and something only hardcore 4WD enthusiasts
    welcome) it will fight this "slip' between the two front wheels. (it
    will try to "not slip") Depending on how "tight" the LSD action has
    been set up, this can and will give you bangs and shudders.
    you have a LSD rear axle diff as well, those wheels will be doing the
    same battle at the other end of the vehicle. As one wheel grips best,
    the LSD transfers some of the drive force to the other "slipping"
    wheel bang grip, slip,bang grip slip, bang..
    Now if you are on a
    slippery surface, say mud, wet grass or clay, sand or gravel, the
    drive line can cope as all wheels can slip. However, on tarmac,
    concrete, hard packed surfaces etc the drive line "winds up" as the
    wheels cannot slip...until the pressure overcomes the wheel grip on a
    loose stone or slippery bit (or a very expensive bit of metal goes
    Since all your tyres are the same size it is only the
    operating conditions that you are subjecting the vehicle to that are
    causing what you perceive as a problem.
    The resistance to changing
    direction even in a normal "open" diff is perfectly normal as the back
    wheels are still trying to push the vehicle in the easiest direction
    i.e. straight ahead.

    I hope this helps.
    For more
    detailed explanations and diagrams do a google search or refer to your
    local library for a book on 4WD operation.

    Be very pleased
    you can select 4WD, rather than having an all wheel drive. BMW front
    diffs can explode in very little pieces just from being put on rollers
    in brake tests for the MOT, or ion street driving "yumping" with the
    front end coming off the ground and losing traction. In NZ, that is
    $8000..about 3500 pounds before labour....

    NZ - Sat 11th October 2014 05:24am (GMT)

Subject : ecu reader
hi I have a Terrano 1999 2.4i with the KA24E engine
Is there a
socket to plug a code reader into, where abouts is the ecu and socket
and has anyone used a code reader to diagnose faults, and if so which
one was it.

- UK - Sun 05th October 2014 10:07pm (GMT)
  • Subject : ecu reader
    Google is your friend. Google "port location 1999 nissan

    &client=firefox-beta&channel=sb&gfe_rd=cr&ei=8vc0VJakC8yN8Qekq4GwBQ r>


    Have at it.

    NZ - Wed 08th October 2014 09:47am (GMT)

Subject : 4wd warning light
hello, hoping somebody can help please. recently the orange 4wd
warning light has been coming on on my randomly switches
the light on when im driving. the revs also increase, i had a friend
test it and it isn't actually in full 4wd ,took it for a test on a
local paddock in both 2 and 4wd and it definitely isn't in 4wd when
the light is on ,hence why I think it is just a warning light.if I
turn off the ignition (99% of the time) the light turns off the revs
drop and its fine ...until next time (which is often) .so does anybody
have any clue what this is. we have removed the switch to see if it
was that, not that and have reconnected it. could it just need more
fluid, or a transmission service maybe? or something else. any help
much appreciated. the make and model is petrol 1997 terrano regulus
auto. im thinking big $$$$$ its scaring me. thank you

vicki prince
lower hutt, new zealnd - Fri 03rd October 2014 05:52am (GMT)
  • Subject : 4wd warning light
    Have you recently bought and fitted new tyres to the vehicle, either
    both front or both back? If so and the vehicle does have ABS, then the
    warning may be for a mis-match in the rolling circumference of the
    tyres causing a warning that if 4wd is engaged the mismatch could
    cause "wind-up" in the driveline as one set of wheels would turn
    faster than the other, even in a straight line. If the vehicle does
    have ABS.
    Otherwise I suggest taking the vehicle to a technician
    with a scan machine and interrogating the computer for the fault codes
    that will be in there, before you start throwing parts and service at

    NZ - Sat 04th October 2014 06:21am (GMT)

    • Subject : 4wd warning light
      an update on this incase anybody else has the same issue, went on
      computer for a test and it was the throttle position sensor.didnt need
      replacing ,just cleaning and had loose intake hose
      relieved ,I was thinking this was going to be expensive, $150 and good
      as new incuding the best car groom ever ,thanks to an honest mechanic
      who could have "found" or charged me for more.

      vicki prince
      lower hutt, new zealand, nz - Tue 14th October 2014 04:54am (GMT)

  • Subject : 4wd warning light
    Hey,just had new tire,s put on my nissan terrano and 4wd light comes
    on and flashes after about 15 mins ive heard due to height difference
    as front ones are worn and back have new tread and on board computer
    picks it up as problem.this info from nissan dealer.chch.

    christchurch, new zealand - Tue 03rd March 2015 06:43am (GMT)

    • Subject : 4wd warning light
      thanks carl, I had read that on other forums this case it was
      just the sensor a new one from the wrecker and its been
      fine since.

      vicki prince
      Lower Hutt, new zealand, nz - Wed 04th March 2015 06:15am (GMT)

Subject : blinking red light and beeping on center armrest console
My daughters 1994 Pathfinder has a red light blinking in the center
armrest console and a beeping noise. I need help clearing it and what
is causing it.

Dave Lawson
Blytheville, Arkansas, USA - Wed 20th August 2014 12:25am (GMT)
Subject : Rear Axle
re previous message, I would like to know if a rear axle from an early
terrano will fit a terrano 11 2003 with rear differential removal. if
not does anyone know the difference

mr b grimes
Widnes, Cheshire, UK - Sat 02nd August 2014 02:34pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Rear Axle
    Are you asking if the complete rear axle (wheel to wheel) from an
    early Terrano (which one, the Spanish built or the Japanese) will fit
    a late model Terrano (which one, Spanish or Japanese?
    Or are you
    asking if the axle (the steel shaft going from the differential to the
    hub) will fit (Spanish or Japanese made) etc etc???

    NZ - Thu 07th August 2014 06:15am (GMT)

    • Subject : Rear Axle
      Both Japanese, and have found out since that the axle fits, the only
      difference is the gearing. Thanks anyway

      Barry Grimes
      Widnes, Cheshire, UK - Thu 07th August 2014 05:23pm (GMT)

      • Subject : Rear Axle
        HI Barry,
        I have just bought a Terrano II and live in
        Could you contact me please on
        Hopefully use your
        Thanks Paul Mahon

        Paul Mahon
        runcorn , Cheshire, UK - Mon 29th September 2014 07:36am (GMT)

Subject : rear axle
does a early terrano rear axle with rear differential removal, fit the
terrano 11. does anyone know please

mr b grimes
widnes, cheshire, UK - Sat 02nd August 2014 02:27pm (GMT)
Subject : breaking
Hi Iam Currently Breaking mistral and terrano 1996 to 1999 2.7td and
2.7tdi so if you need parts reply can post most parts s

robert lane
Gloucester, gloucewstershire, UK - Sat 02nd August 2014 11:59am (GMT)
  • Subject : breaking

    Dear Hellen,

    Please give me a quotation for the LCL
    spare parts mentioned below:

    BF Number: CV43985
    I need replacement parts for Nissan Mistral Model:
    TD27B. Following are the parts I need.
    INDICATOR LIGHTS (Both passenger and driver side) + Fender

    please give me a quote including shipping cost

    Lusaka, Lusaka, Zambia - Sun 17th August 2014 05:16pm (GMT)

  • Subject : breaking
    i,m looking a passenger side door mirror for my terrano 1998 but says
    its a mistral because its a jap import

    belfast, co antrim, UK - Tue 27th January 2015 09:51am (GMT)

Subject : nissan Terrano 2.7 litre R20 diesel 1997
Have air in fuel line and Nissan mechanics cannot find out why. Does
anyone know?

coomera, qld., australia - Thu 31st July 2014 07:00am (GMT)
  • Subject : nissan Terrano 2.7 litre R20 diesel 1997
    Did the air leak start after you had the vehicle serviced, i.e. say
    after you had the fuel filter changed? If not, then you will have to
    start looking for the air leak in the fuel system anywhere in the line
    from the tank (including the pickup tube inside the tank..does the air
    leak happen more often at low tank levels???) all the way to the first
    pump (the lift pump) since after the first pump the fuel will be under
    Top suspect and easiest fix would be a leaking seal on
    the fuel filter. (also check the filter housing that the filter screws
    into for cracking)second would be a pinhole in a steel line caused by
    rubbing/flexing of the line against some part of the body, third a
    crack in the pickup line inside the tank...

    NZ - Sat 02nd August 2014 06:57am (GMT)

  • Subject : nissan Terrano 2.7 litre R20 diesel 1997
    air in system try the fuel primer
    its on the right side its
    got a plunger on top off it which you press a few times and till you
    feel resistance
    i add this problem and ever time you rev up lots
    of white smoke i even went to a diesel fitter he told me it could be
    the injector pump put was not sure
    so i did my own thing and found
    the problem
    it was dieyerphram that was damaged and drawing air in
    inside fuel primer
    its on your right the one that the fuel filter
    screw to let me know how get on for more info

    MANCHESTER, uk, UK - Wed 05th November 2014 07:03pm (GMT)

Subject : Terrano rear axle noise
I have a Nissan Terrano 11 se W reg 2000
s/wb 2.7 My rear axle is
rumbling as I drive if I Depress the clutch The noise goes away have
you any ideas to rectify please thank you

Wrexham, Flintshire, UK - Fri 25th July 2014 12:28pm (GMT)
  • Subject : Terrano rear axle noise
    Drain your rear axle. Examine the colour and contents of the gear oil
    that comes out. If it sparkles with metallic particles the
    differential will need an bearings etc.
    If you
    entrust this inspection to a professional, get them to quote re an
    overhaul versus the complete replacement "bolt in" of a good
    second-hand axle, "wheel to wheel".
    You could do the research
    yourself at the local wreckers to give an indication as to the normal
    price of the second hand unit before fitting costs are factored in.
    Some wreckers will also give a warranty..say three months..if problems
    develop they will get another unit to repalce the faulty one. It's not
    rocket and a friend could do this yourselves with a few
    tools and some planning.

    This may also give you the
    opportunity to put in a limited slip diff (if you don't already have

    Also it allows you to have a good look at the radius
    arm bushings..they may as well be replaced at the same time. Refer to
    "Nissan death wobble" in Pathfinders in the US. You have the same

    As always, maintenance is the pays
    to drain and refill the rear axle every 30k or so, (a 15 minute job,
    and 2.8 litres of fluid available at all factors etc) and it should
    also be drained and refilled at any time if the axle has been immersed
    in water over 500mm deep, as the rapidly cooling diff sucks in water
    through the bearings and the axle breathers......

    NZ - Sat 26th July 2014 06:45am (GMT)

  • Subject : Terrano rear axle noise
    check your propshift universal joints
    for play can couse alot of

    MANCHESTER, UK - Wed 05th November 2014 07:28pm (GMT)

Subject : Oil breather
My 2001 2.7 Auto developed smoke from oil breather,filler cap and
around that area, Spanish mechanic changed oil,filter and cleaned
breather with Benzine but problem has come back after 3-4 weeks.Nissan
garage here says if I change breather 247€.... the problem will come
back as its an old car,no offer of flushing oil, is there another
valve maybe thats blocked

Ray Mynott
Fuengirola, Malaga, Spain - Tue 01st July 2014 11:29am (GMT)
  • Subject : Oil breather
    The PCV (positive crankcase ventilation ) system draws air mixed with
    oil fumes out of the engine and into the air intake through the rubber
    pipe leading from the rocker cover to the plastic tubing (just in
    front of the turbo) from the air filter. If you blow through this you
    should notice no effort is required to blow; it free-flows
    Google "catch tank" and you will see that you can separate
    out most of the oil mist..except when the engine is worn out. Then
    the blow-by gases leaking past the piston rings overwhelm the system,
    and the crankcase has a positive (pressurised) amount of air inside
    which will escape from every hole it can find....resulting in oily
    pastches like you have at the joints in the engine, such as rocker
    cover, oil filler hole, turbo piping and joints etc.
    So, is your
    vehicle that old and worn that no matter how many holes and rubber
    tubes you were to put in it would still have excess pressure and
    If so, you will need to either fix it or scrap it.
    I suggest that you mostly ignore it, but keep an eye on the severity
    of the oil fumes produced. If that gets too much, Google "runaway
    engine" and see what could happen if the fumes actually start fuelling
    the engine.....

    NZ - Wed 02nd July 2014 10:46am (GMT)

Subject : Rough idle td2.7
My 97 teranno 2.7TD has developed a rough idle and low speed cutting
out.Starts first kick and goes well at normal speeds with no loss of
power but gets rather jerky when coming off the throttle.All filters
have been replaced and the maf sensor carefully cleaned but no
difference.Would appreciate any ideas before I do the sensible thing
and take it to a diesel mechanic.Cheers Laurie

Cheshunt, Victoria, Australia - Tue 01st July 2014 02:12am (GMT)
  • Subject : Rough idle td2.7
    Laurie, what about first ringing the diesel expert to see if he has a
    a scan tool to check what trouble codes might be lurking in the ECU
    brain? This could give the diesel expert (who may or may not have a
    scan tool) a clue or a confirmation as to the problem.

    NZ - Tue 01st July 2014 06:39am (GMT)

    • Subject : Rough idle td2.7
      A reading showing No1 injector lift sensor problem can also mean any
      one of the injectors or all of them have a many kms on
      the clock?
      Ever had the injectors overhauled/replaced? Any
      problems with water/crap in the fuel? Dirty fuel filters a problem
      before you changed in the last filter? Ever had a look at the small
      gauze filter under the banjo bolt on the fuel line connection to the
      injector pump? Glow plugs tested and all firing correctly at start up
      including up to 50 degrees c during warmup? Any smoke out the tail
      pipe in excess of what it used to be?

      NZ - Tue 01st July 2014 06:45am (GMT)

      • Subject : Rough idle td2.7
        Took it to a diesel shop today and was told actuator valve was the
        prob and over $2000 to fix or $18000 !!for reconditioned pump.This for
        a car worth $3500 tops.Will wait till I get home for another
        quote..Cheers John..Laurie

        Ceshunt, Victoria, Australia - Wed 02nd July 2014 07:13am (GMT)

        • Subject : Rough idle td2.7
          The suction control valve is a lot cheaper than that to buy....
          NZ - Fri 04th July 2014 11:06am (GMT)

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